S2’s , spoke calculations and dread

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Mack the fork

Look Ma, No Hands!
Hail, all ye intrepid Cabers !

It has been some time since I last had to beg access to the “ All Things Schwinn “
brain trust ; yet here we are again.

I am building an all prewar Klunkenstein Bomber/ Hot Rod with all the good, tasty bits ( Excelsior badged 1940 DX )

However, I’m going to need some help on the wheel build/spoke specs.

I will be using a late 1930’s Morrow rear coaster hub and a large flange, “phone dial” Pork Chop drum; BOTH will be laced to postwar S2 ballooner rims.



MEASUREMENTS FOR SPOKE LENGTH CALCULATIONS:

Rear Morrow Hub: 56.0mm diameter
(measured at spoke hole centers).

Front Pork Chop Hub : 95.0mm diameter (measured at spoke hole centers).

Schwinn S2 Rims - Inside Diameter
( pinstriped side ) : 21 3/8” or
approx. 542.925 mm

I plan on using double butted stainless steel spokes of average gauge.

My questions:

1) What will be the spoke lengths for the Pork Chop front ?

2) What will be the spoke lengths for the Morrow coaster rear ?

3) What would be an appropriate, average gauge stainless spoke for S2 rims ?

4) What would be the optimal spoke pattern for this build ?

5) Where can I get the best price/value
to buy those spokes ?

Thanks all , and Merry Christmas !
 

coasterbrakejunkie1969

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Hail, all ye intrepid Cabers !

It has been some time since I last had to beg access to the “ All Things Schwinn “
brain trust ; yet here we are again.

I am building an all prewar Klunkenstein Bomber/ Hot Rod with all the good, tasty bits ( Excelsior badged 1940 DX )

However, I’m going to need some help on the wheel build/spoke specs.

I will be using a late 1930’s Morrow rear coaster hub and a large flange, “phone dial” Pork Chop drum; BOTH will be laced to postwar S2 ballooner rims.



MEASUREMENTS FOR SPOKE LENGTH CALCULATIONS:

Rear Morrow Hub: 56.0mm diameter
(measured at spoke hole centers).

Front Pork Chop Hub : 95.0mm diameter (measured at spoke hole centers).

Schwinn S2 Rims - Inside Diameter
( pinstriped side ) : 21 3/8” or
approx. 542.925 mm

I plan on using double butted stainless steel spokes of average gauge.

My questions:

1) What will be the spoke lengths for the Pork Chop front ?

2) What will be the spoke lengths for the Morrow coaster rear ?

3) What would be an appropriate, average gauge stainless spoke for S2 rims ?

4) What would be the optimal spoke pattern for this build ?

5) Where can I get the best price/value
to buy those spokes ?

Thanks all , and Merry Christmas !
Not sure about pork chop may even be the same as Morrow rear. You need 10 5/8 for the rear 14 gauge at 4 cross. You can post in wanted someone may have them here on the cabe.
 

Dizzle Problems

Finally riding a big boys bike
Hail, all ye intrepid Cabers !

It has been some time since I last had to beg access to the “ All Things Schwinn “
brain trust ; yet here we are again.

I am building an all prewar Klunkenstein Bomber/ Hot Rod with all the good, tasty bits ( Excelsior badged 1940 DX )

However, I’m going to need some help on the wheel build/spoke specs.

I will be using a late 1930’s Morrow rear coaster hub and a large flange, “phone dial” Pork Chop drum; BOTH will be laced to postwar S2 ballooner rims.



MEASUREMENTS FOR SPOKE LENGTH CALCULATIONS:

Rear Morrow Hub: 56.0mm diameter
(measured at spoke hole centers).

Front Pork Chop Hub : 95.0mm diameter (measured at spoke hole centers).

Schwinn S2 Rims - Inside Diameter
( pinstriped side ) : 21 3/8” or
approx. 542.925 mm

I plan on using double butted stainless steel spokes of average gauge.

My questions:

1) What will be the spoke lengths for the Pork Chop front ?

2) What will be the spoke lengths for the Morrow coaster rear ?

3) What would be an appropriate, average gauge stainless spoke for S2 rims ?

4) What would be the optimal spoke pattern for this build ?

5) Where can I get the best price/value
to buy those spokes ?

Thanks all , and Merry Christmas !
1) I find this spoke calculator the easiest to use- https://leonard.io/edd/

2) likely 258-260mm for three cross, 268-270 for 4x.

3) depends on what they were drilled for. Most common would be 14g, but there was a lot of 12g as well. (Same for the hubs, could be drilled for either.

4) I’d say personal choice. But if it were me, I’d go 4x rear, 3x front. The size of that front brake hub would make 4x difficult.

5) eBay- can get custom stainless spokes. Usually like $25 shipped for 36. I prefer sapiam personally
 

Mack the fork

Look Ma, No Hands!
Dizzle Problems,

You’re truly my hero of the day!

It appears that you read the dimensions that I posted, and recognized that I would need different spoke lengths for the front vs the rear hubs.

Granted, a Morrow rear coaster hub has a pretty standard spoke hole diameter distance across its flanges; but I was really puzzled that everyone was suggesting the same spoke lengths ( generally what would be stock ) for both front AND rear hubs

I don’t understand how that can be when the front hub spoke holes are a 39mm greater diameter across than the rear Morrow hub. ( front 95mm vs rear 56mm ).

Thank you so very much for putting me on the correct path.
I’m grateful!
 

WillWork4Parts

Finally riding a big boys bike
Dizzle Problems,

You’re truly my hero of the day!

It appears that you read the dimensions that I posted, and recognized that I would need different spoke lengths for the front vs the rear hubs.

Granted, a Morrow rear coaster hub has a pretty standard spoke hole diameter distance across its flanges; but I was really puzzled that everyone was suggesting the same spoke lengths ( generally what would be stock ) for both front AND rear hubs

I don’t understand how that can be when the front hub spoke holes are a 39mm greater diameter across than the rear Morrow hub. ( front 95mm vs rear 56mm ).

Thank you so very much for putting me on the correct path.
I’m grateful!

I can measure a drum front laced many years ago at 4x if you want...the geometry works out. It's just easier to use the original spokes that you already have from a stock low flange hub rather than buying new, at least that would be the old school logic. 0x to 4x is just a preference depending on what you want in terms of performance, weight, and looks. People aren't trying to steer you wrong.
 
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