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SA 3 speed Lubrication
- Thread starter borgward
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20w such as this:
https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-motor-oil/ (NOT the usual 3in1 which is vegetable based and gums up)
https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-motor-oil/ (NOT the usual 3in1 which is vegetable based and gums up)
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GTs58
I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Wow, $7-8 for a couple oz of motor oil! Any low viscosity motor oil will work. Most new cars use a 5–30 weight motor oil, either synthetic or synthetic blend. That would be perfect.
Sheldon Brown mentions using automatic transmission fluid. Oh heavens, what else can we use? I've heard some suggest flushing with WD-40!! Good grief!! Better flush the WD-40 after the flush!
Sheldon Brown mentions using automatic transmission fluid. Oh heavens, what else can we use? I've heard some suggest flushing with WD-40!! Good grief!! Better flush the WD-40 after the flush!
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borgward
Finally riding a big boys bike
I used some Norvey zoom spout all purpose turbine oil. Spout made it easy to insert the oil. Installed new cable from trigger to the hub. Everything seems to work smoothly now. Rode about 1/2 mile shifting up and down the gears. I can hear the ticking sound when I spin the wheel but not when I'm riding.Thinking about flushing w/WD 40 or solvent and then re oiling. Might try Mobil 1 10w 30 that's left over from last mower oil change. That oil cap on the hub looks like some cheap plastic or rubber stuff. I remember it being all metal.
Jesper
Wore out three sets of tires already!
Metal caps on early oil ports. I would NOT recommend "flushing" with WD40 (or other penetrant/solvent) unless dismantling and using it as a solvent to clean parts. You can use the oil itself to clean it if you are not dismantling the unit, and just add new oil after draining the "dirty" oil.
borgward
Finally riding a big boys bike
Anybody familiar with this product?
Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication Rust & Corrosion Protection
Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Chain Waterproof Lubricant
Developed by The Boeing Company for lubrication and protection of aircraft components
T-9 flushes out dirt and old lubricants, displaces moisture, and penetrates moving parts
Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication Rust & Corrosion Protection
Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Chain Waterproof Lubricant
Developed by The Boeing Company for lubrication and protection of aircraft components
T-9 flushes out dirt and old lubricants, displaces moisture, and penetrates moving parts
SKPC
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
In my experience, three speed hubs usually have the typical contamination inside caused by poor maintenance or riding in dirty or wet conditions, even with the "labyrinth" seals. Doing it right to begin with may require taking it apart, cleaning the debris out that you find, then re-assembling it, all the while gaining know-how for future needs. You may even find a bad pawl spring not noticed while riding it. Dumping or spraying solvents and cleaners into the oil port or drive side axle end will do little to get out the grime. The hub itself doesn't care about who made the oil or solvents mentioned above, it just wants to be dirt and debris free. The way you achieve this is by taking it apart and cleaning it, then assembling it properly with the appropriate lubriicants: grease on the braking surfaces and bearings, and oil on the rest of it...
SirMike1983
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
The pawls should tick rapidly when coasting and tick at a moderate pace when in Normal or High gear. If when you get the hub that is free and the pawls tick properly, a simple flush and lubrication will usually suffice.
Unfortunately a good number of these hubs have been sitting for 40+ years and need more help. If after lubricating, the hub the pawls do not tick in Normal or High gear, an overhaul is recommended. The hub should be disassembled and the parts cleaned. You can do this any number of ways. I've used mineral spirits, acetone, WD-40 and any of those will work to clean the parts. An ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green and water also can be used.
Lubrication can be done any number of ways today. In both cases lubrication is done based on the sound of the pawls. If the pawls sound very metallic and make "ping" noises, the hub is too dry. If the pawls aren't sounding or sound "gummy" or weak, then there's dirt or grease contamination on them.
Traditional method: grease only in the dust cap channels. Light oil everywhere else. You can use 20-weight oil like 3-in-1 blue bottle (not the black/red one), SAE 20 weight motor oil, sewing machine oil, etc. These have to be oiled on a somewhat frequent basis (every couple of weeks). Oil will run out the sides eventually. But this works fine - just keep a rag handy to keep the wheel clean.
Modern method: use a slick grease like Lucas green on the cone/cup/ball bearing surfaces, and oil for the internals. Oiling is less frequent (maybe once per month) because the oil won't leave the hub as easily. Don't use old-style, sticky brown axle grease with this method.
I use the modern method when rebuilding a hub. Modern greases tend to be slicker and less prone to gumming up the bearings than the brown axle grease available at the time these hubs were made. The grease helps hold in the oil and there's less mess. But either way will work.
[Modern SA hubs without oiler ports are dealt with differently, generally using modern semi-fluid type greases rather than traditional oil.]
Unfortunately a good number of these hubs have been sitting for 40+ years and need more help. If after lubricating, the hub the pawls do not tick in Normal or High gear, an overhaul is recommended. The hub should be disassembled and the parts cleaned. You can do this any number of ways. I've used mineral spirits, acetone, WD-40 and any of those will work to clean the parts. An ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green and water also can be used.
Lubrication can be done any number of ways today. In both cases lubrication is done based on the sound of the pawls. If the pawls sound very metallic and make "ping" noises, the hub is too dry. If the pawls aren't sounding or sound "gummy" or weak, then there's dirt or grease contamination on them.
Traditional method: grease only in the dust cap channels. Light oil everywhere else. You can use 20-weight oil like 3-in-1 blue bottle (not the black/red one), SAE 20 weight motor oil, sewing machine oil, etc. These have to be oiled on a somewhat frequent basis (every couple of weeks). Oil will run out the sides eventually. But this works fine - just keep a rag handy to keep the wheel clean.
Modern method: use a slick grease like Lucas green on the cone/cup/ball bearing surfaces, and oil for the internals. Oiling is less frequent (maybe once per month) because the oil won't leave the hub as easily. Don't use old-style, sticky brown axle grease with this method.
I use the modern method when rebuilding a hub. Modern greases tend to be slicker and less prone to gumming up the bearings than the brown axle grease available at the time these hubs were made. The grease helps hold in the oil and there's less mess. But either way will work.
[Modern SA hubs without oiler ports are dealt with differently, generally using modern semi-fluid type greases rather than traditional oil.]
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