Schwinn Corvette 5 Speed Registry

[GTs58]

I guess the two holes in the rear fender must have been for a mud flap. Otherwise, it's hard to fault that one. It looks more like 6 years old instead of 60!

I think the holes were for a mud flap also. As a kid I never went that far adding stuff to my bike(s). I'm even guilty of taking off the lights! It is a nice unmolested original but the seller has been looking around eBay for sell prices. Another one or maybe two now has been listed for months at near the same price.

 

[shopteacher]

I think the holes were for a mud flap also. As a kid I never went that far adding stuff to my bike(s). I'm even guilty of taking off the lights! It is a nice unmolested original but the seller has been looking around eBay for sell prices. Another one or maybe two now has been listed for months at near the same price.

I've been trying to find out what my Corvette is worth as is. With only a few on eBay and wherever else, it's hard for me to know. As you all probably know, there was one on eBay that sold recently for $1,899.99 shipped, and one currently on eBay for $1,500 + $150 shipping. I feel mine is not even close to those prices, so if some of you would be willing to give your opinion I would appreciate it. See pics and description on page 27 of this thread if you can help out. Thanks!

 

[GTs58]

I've been trying to find out what my Corvette is worth as is. With only a few on eBay and wherever else, it's hard for me to know. As you all probably know, there was one on eBay that sold recently for $1,899.99 shipped, and one currently on eBay for $1,500 + $150 shipping. I feel mine is not even close to those prices, so if some of you would be willing to give your opinion I would appreciate it. See pics and description on page 27 of this thread if you can help out. Thanks!

It seems there is one seller currently on eBay that has set the new trend that everyone is using to set the price on theirs, and his has been for sale for months on end. Then the one you referred to and in better condition with a higher price sells! Strange things are going on these days and as usual, when a seller that has overpriced his items finds a buyer that is unknowing and buys his item the actual value has been falsely inflated. The one that just sold looked to be 95% original and in good condition but was missing the light that can set you back another $150 or more. One that was in better condition and also original and complete sold here on the Cabe for quite a bit less not that long ago. Over the years I've seen nice riders sell for $200 and the highest I've seen was a piece that was badly restored, and not restored 100%. It sold for $2200 in 2008 or so. It's not on the Registry because that owner didn't want to scrap off the paint or powder coat on the drop out to get the serial number. He eventually put it on the market some years later and was trying to get his investment back. He had it listed in every classified venue for well over 18 months. It finally sold and I believe the sell price was just under $900. I really don't like to set a value on someones Corvette 5 due to the wide range of prices these have actually sold for. The buyers are the ones that set the value with some getting a fair deal, some getting a super good deal and those that get ripped. The current market today definitely has me thinking about selling all the ones I have!

I'll use this one I picked up as sort of a price guide, but the value has to be adjusted for today's market. I paid $350 plus shipping for this one around 2012. It's all original other than the tires, cables, the left hand shift lever and front carrier. It was purchased from the original owner and these pictures are as it was found.

 

[shopteacher]

Thanks for the example and information, very helpful! Not sure what my plan is right now for the bike? The 1970s are more the era I grew up in, but I realize this year Corvette is so unique. Even though I haven't done a thing to it, the bike is really fun to ride!

 

[hatz4katz]

Please add this to the list: Serial number L151698. I believe that the frame was manufactured late '61 with '62 style cable routing tabs. I built this bike from a frame, fork, crank, and chain guard. Just for fun, I used a drum brake rear wheel that I had in the "parts department" (garage shelves). The rear wheel was pretty much a bolt on with my biggest challenge being the routing of the rear brake cable. Cosmetically, not so great, but still a nice riding bike.

 

[Oilit]

Is that a Union brake? Looks good!

 

[GTs58]

Great looking resurrection @hatz4katz , I like it!

I'm curious about your crank. Wonder if it's original to the frame or not. On all the Nov. 27, 1961 Corvettes that I've been able to get specific info on, all seem to be equipped with a 1962 cast dated crank. Did you happen to notice what the casting date was on this one?

Got it entered on the list. Thanks!

 

[hatz4katz]

Thanks for the compliments and adding it to the list. Sorry Gary, I don't know the date stamped on the crank. It was mounted on the frame when I purchased it and based on the condition of the grease on the cups, I would guess that it is original to the frame. Having said that, who knows for sure as I the bike was purchased second, third, or whatever hand.
As far as the rear brake goes, it has a logo of a "U" on it, so maybe a Union brake? I purchased the rear wheel on ebay and it appears to have heavy duty spokes, S-7 rim, and Union brake.
As you will note from the pictures, I inverted the brake actuating arm in order to run the brake cable from the top tube down the rear triangle to the brake. I wanted to keep the rear brake cable routing similar to the stock set up as I don't like it when the cable is routed down the front tube, past the crank, and along the chain stay ('80's Cruiser 5 speed with drum brake style).
For all the purists that say that I ruined a rare bike with the drum brake, I have the stock rear wheel and rear brake that can be switched over in a half hour or so. I built the bike as is just for fun and to see if everything would actually fit.
I'll probably ride the bike a couple of times and then sell it or try to trade for that '55 Corvette that keeps hiding from me.

 

[GTs58]

Thanks for the compliments and adding it to the list. Sorry Gary, I don't know the date stamped on the crank. It was mounted on the frame when I purchased it and based on the condition of the grease on the cups, I would guess that it is original to the frame. Having said that, who knows for sure as I the bike was purchased second, third, or whatever hand.
As far as the rear brake goes, it has a logo of a "U" on it, so maybe a Union brake? I purchased the rear wheel on ebay and it appears to have heavy duty spokes, S-7 rim, and Union brake.
As you will note from the pictures, I inverted the brake actuating arm in order to run the brake cable from the top tube down the rear triangle to the brake. I wanted to keep the rear brake cable routing similar to the stock set up as I don't like it when the cable is routed down the front tube, past the crank, and along the chain stay ('80's Cruiser 5 speed with drum brake style).
For all the purists that say that I ruined a rare bike with the drum brake, I have the stock rear wheel and rear brake that can be switched over in a half hour or so. I built the bike as is just for fun and to see if everything would actually fit.
I'll probably ride the bike a couple of times and then sell it or try to trade for that '55 Corvette that keeps hiding from me.

If you ever do remove the crank please let me know what the casting date is. I picked up a 1969 Deluxe Twinn several years ago just for the wheel sets and few other parts. That year the rear expander brake used was the Atom piece mounted to the S-7 with 105 spokes. The last year the Deluxe Twinns came with S-7's was 1970 and the 71 Deluxe came with lightweight rims. I'll have to assume that Schwinn started using those Union drum hubs in 1970 on the Tandems.

I'd like to see what you did for the rear brake cable stop. I like the way you routed the cable and there are cable stops that clamp on the smaller chain stays but those may not work for the smaller seat stay tubing.

 

[hatz4katz]

Here are a couple of pictures of my home grown / Mickey Mouse / Rube Goldberg rear brake cable stop. Pretty simple: Using a cable clamp, I secured the cable stop from the rear hub to the frame by the frame crossmember, rear brake mount. So far, it's working pretty well.