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Schwinn postwar NOS front brake shoes DRAGGING

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No Repro please

Look Ma, No Hands!
I bought an NOS forebrake in the (open) box from the fifties; for my '49 B6, & had it installed nicely on my S2 rim; everything is NOS but for some reason the brake shoes drag just hard enough that the bike is a misery to ride! (The adjustment is about as loose as it can get) The shoes have not been relined, & everything is correctly assembled and NOS. What could be wrong? I did notice the cable contained in the box was for a rear brake & had to buy a repro front cable. Could the shoes be heavy duty, or put into the box from a Whizzer, possibly making them a "hair" BIGGER than normal? This is a real tough one for me, being a newbie of sorts. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks!
 
I would take the wheel off your bike. I would then take the brake cable off. Hold the hub and spin your rim. If it’s locked up then you may want to grind down the shoe inside the hub.

I know you said it’s NOS but I have bought relinded shoes from someone and had to grind them down a little so the rim will spin nicely. Any pictures of your shoes to confirm they are in fact NOS?

-Blincoe
 
I bought a hub one time that was brand new. The shoes wouldn't slide in a t all. I spent hours sandind and trying the fit. I finally got it to fit perfect. Then I mounted it in a wheel. After all the spokes were tight, the shoes were a loose fit. On top of make sure the wheel is straight, make sure your spokes are evenly tightened up before you do any sanding or grinding.
 
Thanks folks; I carefully examined all, & the porkchop seems bent, putting a tremendous preload on the brake system; it may have been returned by a customer as a defective brake unit where they gave a customer an exchange way back in the day, & then threw the returned parts back into a box, & then I came along & bought it generations later...
 
I would look at a blow up of the hub. From what you described, there may be a shim
or washer missing that affects the stiction in the action of the brake.

Straightening old steel is no big deal.

Can you/ did you adjust it in a stand? Does it function smoothly?

Can you manipulate the brake actuator by hand( you should be able to).

If you purchased an aftermarket chinese wire set, there will likely be more cable stretch
( unwind actually) than expected.

Also, did you trim and grind the cable housing. A burr here will be hidden.
Metal cable ferrules will also help.
 
Does your porkchop have the axle centering "hi-hat" washer?

Are you activating the brake before you tighten the axle nuts to make sure the porkchop is centered inside the drum?
 
Thanks folks; I carefully examined all, & the porkchop seems bent, putting a tremendous preload on the brake system; it may have been returned by a customer as a defective brake unit where they gave a customer an exchange way back in the day, & then threw the returned parts back into a box, & then I came along & bought it generations later...

Hmmm, possible but doubtful in my experience. Send me your contact info in a PM and I will be happy to help you troubleshoot. Otherwise, this may help:

drum1.jpg
 
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