Seat pin stuck in an ALAN frame... suggestions?

[RustySprockets]

Go back and read the first post--he's been struggling with this for more than a year. He's already tried every suggestion short of the "heat wrench." Patience IS a virtue, but let's be realistic...brute force + lube hasn't worked.

I was hoping to get a visual on the problem, then maybe recommend some sort of homebrew extractor.

 

[Andrew Gorman]

How steadily have you been soaking this for the last year? And what penetrating oil are you using? It can take a long time. I've found Kroil is as more effective than PB Blaster as PB Blaster is more effective than WD-40. Drip the heck out of the top and bottom of the post, pack both with rags soaked in oil and wait a week or two. Leave it in the sun so it can heat up during the day and get cold at night. Aluminum expands a lot so that cycle might help free it up if the frame feels warm to the touch in the sun and cold in the morning. Keep applying penetrant whenever you think you need to do something and keep on waiting. I'd keep an junk seat frame on the post to give you a handle and a place for a pry bar or lever to give it an occasional wiggle or tap.

 

[HEMI426]

The OP Poster hasen't checked in since 7am this morn. he will have plenty of ideas when he does. I hope he posts some pic's of his dilemma.

 

[RustySprockets]

Since OP is understandably reluctant to apply significant heat, perhaps he could do the opposite. The exposed seat post placed in a bucket of dry ice might cause that part to contract significantly. Same idea--different approach. Even if that doesn't free the post, it might permit the slippery stuff to penetrate deeper.

 

[Andrew Gorman]

Good idea on the dry ice! I've seen it available in some big city grocery stores. Otherwise you can get it at a welding supply store- Airgas, etc.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Good idea on the dry ice! I've seen it available in some big city grocery stores. Otherwise you can get it at a welding supply store- Airgas, etc.

You could apply enough heat from a "handheld" heat gun to expand the metal seat tube without lifting the paint/anodizing. All your trying to do is make the lubricant penetrate further each heating cycle. There are many heating options before you crank up the big torch.

John

 

[josehuerta]

All of the above. Spray liquid nitrogen might work as well (extreme cold). Aluminum expands/contracts more than steel - it's why it isn't used for residential wiring. It tends to loosen at the connectors (but that's your goal here). Last resort might be to sacrifice the post and use an internal nipple wrench. Most plumbers carry them, find in plumbing tools.

 

[J-wagon]

10 lb slide hammer worth a try

 

[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

Crickets. . . . . . I guess he got it out or realized it was time to move on from the project.

 

[AndyA]

Cousin Whistlestop:
Another possible approach: The example shown below was an aluminum seat post frozen in a steel frame. I used a hacksaw blade to cut through the seat post longitudinally. Since the aluminum of the seat post was much softer than the steel of the seat tube, I was able to feel the difference and avoid damage to the tube. That might not be so easy with your aluminum-on-aluminum situation. Once cut through, I was able to grab the post with vice grips and wrestle it out. Have fun!