Seat pin stuck in an ALAN frame... suggestions?

[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

@whistlestop how goes the battle?

 

[HEMI426]

Almost a week, no word, no posts.

 

[coasterbrakejunkie1969]

Almost a week, no word, no posts.

Yep

 

[whistlestop]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I got it. As might be inferred from my username, my shop is immediately adjacent to a rail trail and 2 blocks from a train station with actual trains in it. Anyway, I got the seat pin to twist but couldn't get it to move out so I talked to the guys at the railroad shop- they have railroad sized tools- and clamped the seat pin into a bench vise that is partially imbedded into the concrete floor. And them I twisted and pulled and teisted and pulled, it came out.

Unfortunately the seat cluster broke loose from the seat tube so it will not be ridden ever again but that doesn't stop me from hanging it on the wall. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[HEMI426]

Did you try any of the Cabers suggestions before the big railroad tools?

 

[whistlestop]

Did you try any of the Cabers suggestions before the big railroad tools?

I tried virtually everything... the thing is that the frame is bonded aluminum and my hope was to do the job in a manner that would keep the frame rideable. I like that plumbing tool, maybe it deserves a place in my toolbox along with the cotter pin extractor and tubing dent dies. Now comes replacing the Campy seat pin.

 

[whistlestop]

Cousin Whistlestop:
Another possible approach: The example shown below was an aluminum seat post frozen in a steel frame. I used a hacksaw blade to cut through the seat post longitudinally. Since the aluminum of the seat post was much softer than the steel of the seat tube, I was able to feel the difference and avoid damage to the tube. That might not be so easy with your aluminum-on-aluminum situation. Once cut through, I was able to grab the post with vice grips and wrestle it out. Have fun!

View attachment 1827313

Thanks for this. I usually just use a strong mixture of sodium hydroxide, warmed up, to "melt" aluminum seat pins out of steel frames.

 

[whistlestop]

Crickets. . . . . . I guess he got it out or realized it was time to move on from the project.

Yeah, sorry for the delay in responding. I posted the process that finally worked. Unfortunately the seat tube debonded from the seat cluster. I'll fix it and hang it on my wall.

 

[whistlestop]

How steadily have you been soaking this for the last year? And what penetrating oil are you using? It can take a long time. I've found Kroil is as more effective than PB Blaster as PB Blaster is more effective than WD-40. Drip the heck out of the top and bottom of the post, pack both with rags soaked in oil and wait a week or two. Leave it in the sun so it can heat up during the day and get cold at night. Aluminum expands a lot so that cycle might help free it up if the frame feels warm to the touch in the sun and cold in the morning. Keep applying penetrant whenever you think you need to do something and keep on waiting. I'd keep an junk seat frame on the post to give you a handle and a place for a pry bar or lever to give it an occasional wiggle or tap.

Yep, I get it. Ultimately, the frame has been filled with one type of penetrating oil or another for a long time with at least weekly attempts at moving it. Results finally started by using TriFlow at the top and mineral spirits poured through the BB.

 

[whistlestop]

Are you talking about the seat post?

Yes, sorry. Seat pin=seat post. Hard to break the habit that manifested in the 70's when I sold Gitane and Atala and the other usual suspects.