Seeking information about a ToC Ajax bicycle, built by St. Nicholas Manufacturing of Chicago

[cbustapeck]

On eBay, I came across what the seller describes as a "Turn of Century Hibbard Spencer & Bartlett Ajax Bike Bicycle by St Nicholas MFG Chicago". They additionally note that the bicycle has 28 inch wheels, as one would expect. The saddle appears to be a Christy. When I asked the seller about the wheels, they noted that they "turn fine but the front wheel is warped".

My intent would be to make this a bicycle that I could actually ride.

I would appreciate any information about what this bicycle might have looked like originally or what specific brands or types of parts (pedals for instance) would have been installed. Are there any parts that are missing, other than the grips, pedals, tires, and skirt guard, for instance a spoon brake? Pictures that illustrate what the pinstriping would have looked like (I can see a few remnants here and there) would be welcome, too.

My big concern here, in addition to being a librarian and just needing to know everything, is cost. I would absolutely want to retain the original rims, but I cannot seem to find any tubular tires that are wide enough. I suspect some exist, and that they are pricey, but I have no idea as to how pricey. I would appreciate thoughts as to options and cost. Also, what are the cheapest pedals and grips that I might find that would look right-ish? Are there other parts that I am failing to think of that would be needed?

TL;DR
Please help me with:

• Period literature
• Modern photographs
• Costs and options
  • Tires
  • Pedals
  • Grips
  • Other things I failed to think of

Thank you in advance,
Christopher

The following pictures are all by the seller, lodestarexpress, and are left here as a record for research once the listing has expired.

 

[Freqman1]

To fully restore this bike will cost more than it’s worth. To get an accurate, rideable wheel set with tires will be at least $600. Paint, transfers (decals), nickel and other stuff could be an easy $2k. If you’re going to mess with very much TOC stuff you need to consider joining the Wheelmen http://thewheelmen.org/redesign/. Who probably have the largest library on bikes of this period. V/r Shawn

 

[cbustapeck]

To fully restore this bike will cost more than it’s worth. To get an accurate, rideable wheel set with tires will be at least $600. Paint, transfers (decals), nickel and other stuff could be an easy $2k. If you’re going to mess with very much TOC stuff you need to consider joining the Wheelmen http://thewheelmen.org/redesign/. Who probably have the largest library on bikes of this period. V/r Shawn

Shawn,

I appreciate that insight and suggestion.

I think I should clarify my interest in this and in bicycle projects as a whole, to help explain what information I am looking for.

My perfect bicycle project is one that is reasonably complete and can be made stable enough to ride with a ton of sweat equity and not a lot of money. It's one that, to my eyes, is really interesting, underappreciated, and undervalued relative to the market as a whole. Finally, it needs to be at least somewhat different from bikes that I have had before.

If I can get something nominally round on the wheels that will allow them to go over the roads without damaging themselves and something pedal-shaped that would fit in the pedal holes for a total of $250, this would work for me. I've never had a bicycle this early, and after this, I probably wouldn't want to repeat it.* (It's likely to be a time consuming experience, and one that provides a lot of learning, and once I am done I would want to learn and experience something different.)

My goal is not perfection, but able to go down the road, and in a sensitive manner that doesn't damage the fabric of the bicycle.

I guess what my real question is is this:
Is there anything vaguely tire shaped that I can fit on these wheels that will allow me to ride the bike for $200 or less?

Thanks again,
Christopher




*I wouldn't say no to a penny farthing, but I doubt that that will ever be in budget.

 

[Freqman1]

Shawn,

I appreciate that insight and suggestion.

I think I should clarify my interest in this and in bicycle projects as a whole, to help explain what information I am looking for.

My perfect bicycle project is one that is reasonably complete and can be made stable enough to ride with a ton of sweat equity and not a lot of money. It's one that, to my eyes, is really interesting, underappreciated, and undervalued relative to the market as a whole. Finally, it needs to be at least somewhat different from bikes that I have had before.

If I can get something nominally round on the wheels that will allow them to go over the roads without damaging themselves and something pedal-shaped that would fit in the pedal holes for a total of $250, this would work for me. I've never had a bicycle this early, and after this, I probably wouldn't want to repeat it.* (It's likely to be a time consuming experience, and one that provides a lot of learning, and once I am done I would want to learn and experience something different.)

My goal is not perfection, but able to go down the road, and in a sensitive manner that doesn't damage the fabric of the bicycle.

I guess what my real question is is this:
Is there anything vaguely tire shaped that I can fit on these wheels that will allow me to ride the bike for $200 or less?

Thanks again,
Christopher




*I wouldn't say no to a penny farthing, but I doubt that that will ever be in budget.

Christopher to get under $250 you could use some modern road bike pedals that would kind look the part. For wheels tires the most economical way to go is with a modern set of wheels from a box store bike. I believe there is a skip tooth sprocket that you can get provided it will work with the chain you have. The pieces that were nickel can be polished and coated with some wax. Most of these bikes were black so I’d have the frame blasted (or strip it yourself), prime, and paint with Krylon or similar. If you take your time-preparation is everything-then you can come out with something decent for little coin but a lot of sweat equity. Hope this helps. V/r Shawn

 

[GiovanniLiCalsi]

You can also steam the rims, let dry for a few weeks, reglue and repair rims. Also line rims with carbon fiber tape and epoxy.
Buy a TOC wreck, with good pedals and part out wreck. Just go slow and have patience.
The fun is in the search and education.

 

[New Mexico Brant]

You could also consider picking up a 28” metal clincher painted wheel set from a Raleigh or Phillips. When you can find these they are usually dirt cheap.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Sometimes even the labor effort might not seem to be worth it - compared to simpler alternatives. Looks like the rear hub might be a fixed gear, and the front sprocket looks small. Perhaps a coaster brake wheel would suit the rider’s needs. A bit more expensive might be an integral gear hub. Re-using and re-lacing old hubs to new rims may be a learning experience; (or a path not taken).

 

[New Mexico Brant]

I am loving the fork on this sad lady. She could have been brought back.

 

[The Carolina Rambler]

Hi Christopher, if I may make a suggestion as to the course of action for your project. If you would conduct on this bicycle what is called a "Patina Restoration", that is, making the bicycle restored and ridable mechanically, but leaving the existing finish as is, you could save a considerable amount of time and money on it, while still having a quality end product. Your bike is a good candidate for this, because even as it sits, it is presentable and good looking already, in my opinion; sometimes it is good for a 100 year old bike to continue looking 100 years old. What you would do is access how warped the wheels are, and if they are in fact too warped to ride as is, you will need to dismantle them completely, and rebuild them. The spoke screws will need to be soaked with penetrating oil (WD40 or PB blaster) for a week in advance. Depending on how many spokes and screws you are able to save, will determine if you just have to buy new ones, which can be spendy unless you go the scrap yard direction on obtaining spokes. The rims will have to be soaked, steamed, and clamped and bound in order to be brought back to true. This can be done at home using a jerry-rigged set up. Joints re-glued. And even then, chances are you will have a slight skip in them when riding, when going the original rim route. They'll be close to perfect true, but not 100% perfect, unless you're lucky. The hubs will need serviced and rebuilt. These wheels can be redone for as little as a few hundred dollars, but you will have to do all of the work youself, and it will take 10s of hours, it is a lot of work, but you save a lot of money.

If you want new wood rims, they can be purchased from Amish Wheel Wright, "Stutzman's wheel shop" for around $250 dollars a pair, and they are exact as originals from the 1800s, and he has several styles. Pamplets available and Phone call only

For tires, shop around for "700x33" tubular tires on ebay and google. I recommend these because they are similar in style and size to 1800s tires, and the painted logos on them can be removed with acetone for more accurate appearance. They are a close modern equivalent, and I had been buying "white Tread Challenge Grifo Tubular Tires", but those might be getting discontinued. Tubular tires like you will need, are more challenging to mount and use than modern tires, and not as reliable, so that is something to keep in mind.

Here is one white wall option:

Challenge Grifo Team Edition "S" Cyclocross Tubular Tire

Challenge's Grifo Team Edition "S" tubular tire has a do-it-all cyclocross tread pattern with white sidewalls, extra-soft compound, and "Team Edition" stamping.

www.ridecx.com

Here is green with gumwall- I bought a pair of these but haven't tried mounting yet:

Michelin Power Cyclocross Jet Tubular 700c Tire - Width: 33mm

Michelin Power Cyclocross Jet Tubular 700c Tire - Width: 33mm :: From $59.99 :: Michelin 700c Tubular Tires

www.universalcycles.com

Here is what I have been using:

Challenge 700X33 Grifo Open Tubular White Tread, Black Casing 300 TPI

The original Challenge tread and a perennial World Championship winnerthe Grifo has been updated with a more-supple 300 TPI casing in the UCI-legal maximum width of 33mm Casing change helps to increase gripcomfort for the riderand tire volume Tread pattern is the best all-rounderwith great...

wheelbuildingparts.com

A fellow named Robert Dean also makes tubular tires, and he is talked about on this forum when you search

There are a number of people on here selling cork and leather grips for 1800s bicycles, and they can be found also in the search on this forum- "TOC handlebar grips"

The handle bars can be lightly sanded and polished to reveal the patinated silvery bare steel underneath, and clearcoated with enamal for a nice look that is an alternative to replating that is free of cost. That type of seat you have can be reupholstered easier than many other types, and will look good once you re-do it.

Here is a link to a similar project to yours that I did some time back that might provide some insight. This bike has the same wheels as your bike, but is about 20 years newer:

Restored and Road Ready- Just Completed My 1917-18 Ward's Deluxe Flyer Project- Before and After Photos | Project Rides

Good evening everybody, hope you are doing well! I have been wanting to share with you a project I've been working to complete for the last 2 years, and a few days ago, I got it all done and road ready. This is a 1917-18 Montgomery Ward's Deluxe Flyer bicycle. I was turned on to this project...

thecabe.com

Good luck with your project. I think you have a good restoration candidate on your hands, and it can be done cost effectively, if you do EVERYTHING yourself at home. I would estimate you are looking at roughly $500 give or take to get this bicycle on the road again, in an authentic fashion.