Finally riding a big boys bike
- Oct 20, 2010
Wont' throw in towel just yet, but you've suggested the best Plan B. Any idea whose selling used spokes? Also, I'm guessing that in the 40s, there was little variety in the length of the spokes on the classic 26" ballooners. Sound about right?Hate to say it they are goners. Just replace them with used ones...
I used to work on modern bikes a lot, and I have the spoke wrenches, one of which fits very snugly on the top of the nipple, where the spoke enters. However, hate to admit, but it didn't occur to me to hold the spoke with some vice grips. Will give this a try. Thanks.I've broken some loose by clamping the spoke in a hand vise and unscrewing the nipple. Grind down a screwdriver so it REALLY fits the slot in the nipple and it should come off after penetrating oil and the judicious application of heat. Just hold the spoke so it can't move and make sure the tool you are using on the nipple fits exactly.
OK. I've got the spoke wrenches. All spokes still attached, but loosened. I'll give another go with the penetrating liquid wrench. ThanksSoaking overnight or two may help if you’re down to 3; sometimes I have found it helpful or coincidental to still have the other spokes in place or even tightened to apply some stress to the threads. The WD40 seems less effective and tends to evaporate more overnight. A good old spoke tool may help if not already in use.
Good suggestions. Will try both. ThanksSometimes the rust buster can't get down into the nipple because of rust. I use a dremel tool with a circular steel brush to remove the rust at the head of the nipple so the solvent can get to where it can do some good.
I also had success with one of the Freezing sprays. Seems the intense cold can cause tiny cracks in the rust as is freezes/thaws. Stuff I use claims to have a penetration solvent that also helps.
Good luck,I hope you can save some of them. I wouldn't use vise grips on anything I was trying to save,the teeth marks defeat the purpose,IMHO