Shelby pedal removal

Discussion in 'Classic Balloon Tire Bicycles 1933-1965' started by Skiptoothgrin, May 16, 2018.

  1. #1 Posted May 16, 2018

    'Lil Knee Scuffer

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    I just acquired a Shelby Traveler ladies. I have it stripped to repaint but can't seem to budge the right side pedal to remove the crank. I see there is a screw at the back but it wont budge either. I've tried a modest application of heat but before I disassemble the pedals themselves and turn up the gas wrench I wanted to know if someone has a magic trick.
     
  2. #2 Posted May 16, 2018

    Riding an Alexander Rocket Bike

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    Heat or let it soak for a few days with a good penetrating oil. downloadvvvvvvvvvvv.jpg web_ad_02.jpg
     
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  3. #3 Posted May 16, 2018

    Cruisin' on my Bluebird

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    If you mean the left side (non sprocket side)the pedal threads are reverse.the sprocket side is standard.you don't need to remove the right side pedal to remove the crank.
     
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  4. #4 Posted May 17, 2018 at 4:52 AM

    'Lil Knee Scuffer

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    I do know that the thread is backward but still don't know about the screw in the back.
     
  5. #5 Posted May 17, 2018 at 5:00 AM

    Riding a '37 Colson Imperial

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    Is it an actual screw or just the slot in the pedal axle? Maybe it has some kind of thread saver/repair kit installed?
     
  6. #6 Posted May 17, 2018 at 5:10 AM

    'Lil Knee Scuffer

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    Guess it could be just a slot but wouldn't seem to serve any function that way. I have it soaking in PB blaster now.
     
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  7. #7 Posted May 17, 2018 at 5:13 AM

    Cruisin' on my Bluebird

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    I just remember to turn the wrench towards the rear on either side I'm on.
     
    #7 Krakatoa, May 17, 2018 at 5:13 AM
    Last edited: May 17, 2018 at 2:52 PM
  8. #8 Posted May 17, 2018 at 7:59 AM

    Cruisin' on my Bluebird

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    Lay your bike on it's side, so that slot you are talking about is facing up, nice and level. Put some of your penetrating oil on it and every chance you get, morning and night is fine, hit it again . Being it is laying flat, some of the oil will puddle around the threads and soak down. Spraying oil on a pedal when the bike is standing upright just wastes oil When stuff is really stuck, patience is the cure. Too much heat may discolor your crank arm. I've never broke one, but I've messed up pedals.
     
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  9. #9 Posted May 17, 2018 at 8:42 AM

    Moderator Staff Member

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    From my limited experience it's not common for pedals to be stuck in crank arms unless they're damaged.
    I can't recall ever having to use heat to remove one, even when damaged.
    The right (drive) side pedal doesn't need to come off to remove the crank.
    Don't know why it's there but the slot in the end of the spindle is not for installation/removal: a screwdriver can't get enough umph.
    You'll need one of these or similar:

    prod5647_IMGSET?wid=500&hei=505.jpg
     
  10. #10 Posted May 17, 2018 at 8:51 AM

    Moderator Staff Member

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    A6B2BA9A-8609-430D-82CA-4E4A1B24D950.jpeg
    To remove the pedal push the wrench down.
    When reinstalling put some grease on the threads.
     
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  11. #11 Posted May 17, 2018 at 9:34 AM

    'Lil Knee Scuffer

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    Thanks for all the replies. I'll keep after it.
     
  12. #12 Posted May 17, 2018 at 1:00 PM

    Cruisin' on my Bluebird

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    Are these the "slots" you are talking about? IMG_2266.JPG
     
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  13. #13 Posted May 17, 2018 at 1:10 PM

    Riding a '37 Colson Imperial

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    Always wondered what purpose they serve. Like @rustjunkie said, they're not deep enough to apply any real torque.
     
  14. #14 Posted May 17, 2018 at 1:56 PM

    Look Ma, No Hands!

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    When you are removing pedals, leave the rear wheel and chain on because the coaster brake prevents the crank from turning while you are applying pressure to the pedal wrench---- this goes for both the right and left pedal and eliminates any guessing about which way to turn the pedals to loosen them.
     
  15. #15 Posted May 17, 2018 at 3:08 PM

    Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe

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    They are there to help install... so yer not screwing with a wrench the whole time until you need to put that final torque on em.. less chance of the wrench hitting paint ect... oil em up, get them started and then use the screwdriver to screw them in.. finish tightening with wrench.. there is a purpose for them ..


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  16. #16 Posted May 17, 2018 at 3:13 PM

    Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe

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    Less chance of messing threads up that way too... if it’s not going in right, the slot is shallow enough that yer screwdriver will pop out... kinda a safety thing of sorts..


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  17. #17 Posted May 17, 2018 at 3:42 PM

    Riding a '37 Colson Imperial

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    o_O
     
  18. #18 Posted May 17, 2018 at 4:34 PM

    Finally riding a big boys bike

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    Maybe for an Impact Driver in an emergency? (stripped wrench flats) They do remove stubborn threaded shafts...
     
    #18 SKPC, May 17, 2018 at 4:34 PM
    Last edited: May 17, 2018 at 5:38 PM
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  19. #19 Posted May 17, 2018 at 5:24 PM

    I live for the CABE

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    You should have 1 of these....
    Capture.JPG
     
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  20. #20 Posted May 18, 2018 at 10:27 AM

    'Lil Knee Scuffer

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    It's off . I just put a 15mm (which is a little longer than my 9/16) with a short cheater bar on it and heaved.. It let out a snap loud enough that I thought I had broken the wrench. Must have been Jack the Bear that installed it. On to paint.