Jeff54
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
So, I just finished my 2nd 'Bike-N-A-Box'.
Before packing my 1st one, I searched the net for helpful instructions, photos or videos and read shipping sites who discussed it..
Unfortunately, there was a few stages I neglected to photograph so, I wanted to cover it better.
This was I came up with:
This current bike is much the same as my first and I took a few more photos this time.
1st off the box. Some shops will gladly give them away, and others sell em, 10-15 bucks or so.. however, the buy-a-used-box people say you can load up on the plastics, while the 'free guys' trash stuff faster and carry stock of foam and accessories for; in case they have to ship a floor model out. So, to solve that, I picked up free guy's box and materials then went dumpster diving at 'buy guy's' bike shop . (they didn't mind that.) for more materials. for all the effort, If I do another bike in a box,, might fork out that 10 bucks and see what comes in the grab bag at buy guy's shop . Alternative, standard or cheapest you can find home plumbing foam pipe wrap/insulation is good too. most hardware/lumber/major retail supper center stores carry it.
Other materials to pick up are:
Bag of good tie straps. ( dollar store types are garbage for this purpose)
2 rolls of dollar store type clear tape, wrapping tape.
About 75 feet packing tape.
Various chunks of 1' Styrofoam which will eventually become, either 8" or up to 10" wide because, what is not used as filler along side the bike,, I put a layer on the bottom and top of box to protect the bike and to provide stronger ends and edges in the whole box. So, I'll cut them the same width of inside of box, plus 1/6" or so, so they'll fit tight and stay put. , and 3 more pieces tight, each under the tires and another under the sprocket. . .
Next me begin covering all the painted and soft areas that might get touched while dissembling it. Plus, The bike was sold, and now I can't afford to accidently scratch it while jerking on me monkey wrench and flathead poker. . Wrap a few pieces of tape all the way around the pre-rolled foam as the protected areas are covered. .
Then remove the seat, pedals, loosen the handlebars, and remove goose neck/stem. in this case, the gear handle, slide-switch needed to be removed and repositioned nearby: 1 1/4 socket, only remove the head cover bolt and replace it loose. . . 14 and 16 MM and 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8" sockets and box/open end wrenches, different bikes vary in wrench size. Screw driver, pliers (don't touch a bike with pliers, these are only for pulling strap ties tight!) , small crescent wrench and scissors. .
Note: the pedals are screwed off in different directions. when you are facing each pedal turn counter clockwise. One side is lefty tighty, righty loose, (Reverse thread) the other, the sprocket side is righty tight, lefty loose, (standard) .
Nest step is to begin measuring the fit or distance. on the area of fork, turn it in reverse to check for any accessories that might scratch or touch the frame because you'll need to have the fork in reverse position to fit the box. . remove front tire, reverse the fork and place the front tire in a position that, where ever the back tier is aligned with the back of box, place the front tier approximately 3/4-1" protruding beyond where the head post and fork are, or extending all the way across to the other end of box. .. This will add protection in the event the box gets bumped at either end.. I also have the tires low, around 10-15 pounds so they'll take some shock and push it back without jarring the inside. .
Using strap ties, I'll elevate the fork an inch or two by placing something under the sprocket. and then strap the front tire to the frame, securing the frame to the tire/rim. . This will help keep the fork from poking a hole in bottom of box and we get bouncy support from tire here too. . Plus,, you'll recall, I also have 2 1" thick pieces of foam prepared for this area. . FedEx or UPS will have to do more than drop at your door, stomp on it and run to poke that fork out. (grin)
Where to put those handlebars, seat and pedals? Once you've established your main package, test fit the other pieces within the areas that they'll be away from the sides of box.. Move around wiggle here, there to find places they'll be happy.. Keep in mind, a good box has no jiggle or rattling sounds .. notice, everything is secured and cushioned.
In this case the handles bars fit cross wise, and I could place a strap tie on rear wheel to hold it, plus keep back tire from moving with one stroke, plus add another strap tie on other side of handlebars to front tire, a loose rim never has to many strap ties on it. .. with loose goose neck and loose seat post, I placed some bubble wrap on the seat, and strapped neck stem and seat post together with tape. That'll hold em in place and keep from rattling.
The pedals are easier, placed on top drop bar inside of bubble wrap, strapped on with ties in two positions. Notice; there's only 1 strap tie on peddles in photo.. I quickly discovered, to keep in place it takes two. Also the bike shops have neat-o, axel covers to keep them from poking holes in you box.
wala- you're ready to test the box. Not the last box I packed but, this time the front wheel axel just wouldn't make the grade when test fitted, protected by the axel cover it slides in and out, but extended beyond this 8" box. 9" more better but beggars can't be choosers. Due to the cantilever brakes on fork, there wasn't enough clearance so, I removed the front axel, and taped over the bearing holes. Note: one of my goals is too not remove whatever I do not need to.. My first box, I removed to much, and ended up putting things back in their place. Plus I want the receiver to have the least amount of assembly work.. the rear wheel on this, is still tight to the frame which will maintain the adjustment of the 5 speed's accessories.
Now I'm ready fer the box, receiver will be able to lift it right out because , it's basically all one piece at this point. I can flip it to any angle and nothing will move.
First fix any holes you might have from used box. this one had side slide for grabbing handle ripped. place packing tape on both sides of a rips make it stronger than before it got it.
This is when you can now flip the bike to either side without harming it. you should have covered it all, and with those neat-o axel covers, no problems.. So, before going into box, grab some of you extra 1" foam and fit it in wherever you can or ready loose pieces you've checked where to put them.
The bike was to heavy for me to lift, regardless, you can also lay it on the floor and side it in while sticking the extra foam inside.
Once your up.. stick more foam in there, does not need to be form fit, but good enough so if FEDEX or UPS guy is a box poker before the drop, stomp and run routine,, odds are he'll only get the foam.
Once it was inside, I noticed the rear reflector had to change position.
Don't close it yet! I'm almost there now!
Remember the foam on the bottom, that helps keep it and edges strong? I do that the top now.. plus lay them out so they are raised to the top of box.. it might take a few layers here or there, and only 1 layer in some areas.. I'm not trying to fill every void just raise the 8" wide foam as close to the top as I can.
I'll be tight so, I stick it against a edge of the corner of wall or shelf and push it from the other side to get the top to close where it fits right.. all that Styrofoam and soft foam is going to make it feel fat. laying on floor and putting your weight on it don't work as well because, this way you can get to both sides of your box. stick 8" out from edge, push against the box and tape it closed, side it further away from edge of wall or shelf, , taping it 8-10" each time across the top..
Then cover the top and bottom edges at least twice so the width of the taped areas is at least 1 and 1/2 times the width of tape, with packing tape on all four sides. . ya want to reinforce a used box so it won't reopen in transport. it ought to look a little fat but if ya checked the areas ya put the foam it'll all be OK,..
Notice I put BIG arrows and wrote big letters to direct the shippers to maintain it top wise.. well, somebody will not do it. Murphy's law: "whatever can break will". Good Ol, Murphy and I came to an agreement when me was only 11-12 years old.. 'Me does it right and he won't break it' we've gotten along well every since, that's why I got all that fat foam in there,.. When you take it in to ship they don't much care about the fat box.
It takes plenty time to gather the materials, and several hours to pack it,, there's gotta be an easier way, other than going the distance and buying a fricken travel case, to prevent UPS or FedEx guys from scratching it when they drop, stomp and run. .
Before packing my 1st one, I searched the net for helpful instructions, photos or videos and read shipping sites who discussed it..
Unfortunately, there was a few stages I neglected to photograph so, I wanted to cover it better.
This was I came up with:
This current bike is much the same as my first and I took a few more photos this time.
1st off the box. Some shops will gladly give them away, and others sell em, 10-15 bucks or so.. however, the buy-a-used-box people say you can load up on the plastics, while the 'free guys' trash stuff faster and carry stock of foam and accessories for; in case they have to ship a floor model out. So, to solve that, I picked up free guy's box and materials then went dumpster diving at 'buy guy's' bike shop . (they didn't mind that.) for more materials. for all the effort, If I do another bike in a box,, might fork out that 10 bucks and see what comes in the grab bag at buy guy's shop . Alternative, standard or cheapest you can find home plumbing foam pipe wrap/insulation is good too. most hardware/lumber/major retail supper center stores carry it.
Other materials to pick up are:
Bag of good tie straps. ( dollar store types are garbage for this purpose)
2 rolls of dollar store type clear tape, wrapping tape.
About 75 feet packing tape.
Various chunks of 1' Styrofoam which will eventually become, either 8" or up to 10" wide because, what is not used as filler along side the bike,, I put a layer on the bottom and top of box to protect the bike and to provide stronger ends and edges in the whole box. So, I'll cut them the same width of inside of box, plus 1/6" or so, so they'll fit tight and stay put. , and 3 more pieces tight, each under the tires and another under the sprocket. . .
Next me begin covering all the painted and soft areas that might get touched while dissembling it. Plus, The bike was sold, and now I can't afford to accidently scratch it while jerking on me monkey wrench and flathead poker. . Wrap a few pieces of tape all the way around the pre-rolled foam as the protected areas are covered. .
Then remove the seat, pedals, loosen the handlebars, and remove goose neck/stem. in this case, the gear handle, slide-switch needed to be removed and repositioned nearby: 1 1/4 socket, only remove the head cover bolt and replace it loose. . . 14 and 16 MM and 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8" sockets and box/open end wrenches, different bikes vary in wrench size. Screw driver, pliers (don't touch a bike with pliers, these are only for pulling strap ties tight!) , small crescent wrench and scissors. .
Note: the pedals are screwed off in different directions. when you are facing each pedal turn counter clockwise. One side is lefty tighty, righty loose, (Reverse thread) the other, the sprocket side is righty tight, lefty loose, (standard) .
Nest step is to begin measuring the fit or distance. on the area of fork, turn it in reverse to check for any accessories that might scratch or touch the frame because you'll need to have the fork in reverse position to fit the box. . remove front tire, reverse the fork and place the front tire in a position that, where ever the back tier is aligned with the back of box, place the front tier approximately 3/4-1" protruding beyond where the head post and fork are, or extending all the way across to the other end of box. .. This will add protection in the event the box gets bumped at either end.. I also have the tires low, around 10-15 pounds so they'll take some shock and push it back without jarring the inside. .
Using strap ties, I'll elevate the fork an inch or two by placing something under the sprocket. and then strap the front tire to the frame, securing the frame to the tire/rim. . This will help keep the fork from poking a hole in bottom of box and we get bouncy support from tire here too. . Plus,, you'll recall, I also have 2 1" thick pieces of foam prepared for this area. . FedEx or UPS will have to do more than drop at your door, stomp on it and run to poke that fork out. (grin)
Where to put those handlebars, seat and pedals? Once you've established your main package, test fit the other pieces within the areas that they'll be away from the sides of box.. Move around wiggle here, there to find places they'll be happy.. Keep in mind, a good box has no jiggle or rattling sounds .. notice, everything is secured and cushioned.
In this case the handles bars fit cross wise, and I could place a strap tie on rear wheel to hold it, plus keep back tire from moving with one stroke, plus add another strap tie on other side of handlebars to front tire, a loose rim never has to many strap ties on it. .. with loose goose neck and loose seat post, I placed some bubble wrap on the seat, and strapped neck stem and seat post together with tape. That'll hold em in place and keep from rattling.
The pedals are easier, placed on top drop bar inside of bubble wrap, strapped on with ties in two positions. Notice; there's only 1 strap tie on peddles in photo.. I quickly discovered, to keep in place it takes two. Also the bike shops have neat-o, axel covers to keep them from poking holes in you box.
wala- you're ready to test the box. Not the last box I packed but, this time the front wheel axel just wouldn't make the grade when test fitted, protected by the axel cover it slides in and out, but extended beyond this 8" box. 9" more better but beggars can't be choosers. Due to the cantilever brakes on fork, there wasn't enough clearance so, I removed the front axel, and taped over the bearing holes. Note: one of my goals is too not remove whatever I do not need to.. My first box, I removed to much, and ended up putting things back in their place. Plus I want the receiver to have the least amount of assembly work.. the rear wheel on this, is still tight to the frame which will maintain the adjustment of the 5 speed's accessories.
Now I'm ready fer the box, receiver will be able to lift it right out because , it's basically all one piece at this point. I can flip it to any angle and nothing will move.
First fix any holes you might have from used box. this one had side slide for grabbing handle ripped. place packing tape on both sides of a rips make it stronger than before it got it.
This is when you can now flip the bike to either side without harming it. you should have covered it all, and with those neat-o axel covers, no problems.. So, before going into box, grab some of you extra 1" foam and fit it in wherever you can or ready loose pieces you've checked where to put them.
The bike was to heavy for me to lift, regardless, you can also lay it on the floor and side it in while sticking the extra foam inside.
Once your up.. stick more foam in there, does not need to be form fit, but good enough so if FEDEX or UPS guy is a box poker before the drop, stomp and run routine,, odds are he'll only get the foam.
Once it was inside, I noticed the rear reflector had to change position.
Don't close it yet! I'm almost there now!
Remember the foam on the bottom, that helps keep it and edges strong? I do that the top now.. plus lay them out so they are raised to the top of box.. it might take a few layers here or there, and only 1 layer in some areas.. I'm not trying to fill every void just raise the 8" wide foam as close to the top as I can.
I'll be tight so, I stick it against a edge of the corner of wall or shelf and push it from the other side to get the top to close where it fits right.. all that Styrofoam and soft foam is going to make it feel fat. laying on floor and putting your weight on it don't work as well because, this way you can get to both sides of your box. stick 8" out from edge, push against the box and tape it closed, side it further away from edge of wall or shelf, , taping it 8-10" each time across the top..
Then cover the top and bottom edges at least twice so the width of the taped areas is at least 1 and 1/2 times the width of tape, with packing tape on all four sides. . ya want to reinforce a used box so it won't reopen in transport. it ought to look a little fat but if ya checked the areas ya put the foam it'll all be OK,..
Notice I put BIG arrows and wrote big letters to direct the shippers to maintain it top wise.. well, somebody will not do it. Murphy's law: "whatever can break will". Good Ol, Murphy and I came to an agreement when me was only 11-12 years old.. 'Me does it right and he won't break it' we've gotten along well every since, that's why I got all that fat foam in there,.. When you take it in to ship they don't much care about the fat box.
It takes plenty time to gather the materials, and several hours to pack it,, there's gotta be an easier way, other than going the distance and buying a fricken travel case, to prevent UPS or FedEx guys from scratching it when they drop, stomp and run. .
Last edited: