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shrinky dinkin' steering tubes

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1"-24tpi and none in my area would touch it. One said he would charge me $20-30, couldn't put the slot in it and wouldn't guarantee that he would not screw up the fork. I would have been willing to risk it but I have three 70 year old forks to do so the heck with em, I bought the die. If it is gonna cost me that much to screw it up, I'll screw it up myself...:rolleyes:
 
dye

All you need is a 1in/24pitch dye and run the threads down and cut to fit and your done. Its super easy you need a hack saw,tape messure,vice and a dye and about 15mins. And you dont need the slot head set wont loosen up. Unless you think its a BMX and you plan on taking it on the track..lol..good luck guys...
 
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slot needed

All you need is a 1in/24pitch dye and run the threads down and cut to fit and your done. Its super easy you need a hack saw,tape messure,vice and a dye and about 15mins. And you dont need the slot head set wont loosen up. Unless you think its a BMX and you plan on taking it on the track..lol..good luck guys...

trust me i need the slot.
everytime i ride a bicycle !
i ride the tankers,steer tube loose.
 
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I find it depends on the specific challenges you face. I had a springer with the threaded part broken completely off so I did exactly what the first post says except I rewelded the steer tube off another fork onto it. if it simply needs shortening, and you arent too worried about the key way I vote for threading it down and cutting off the excess. I now am faced with the problem of an original paint bike on which the top few inches of the steer tube is cracked vertically along the key way. I'll either do the cut and weld thing or maybe figure out a way to weld it up and hone it out.
if you are interested, the tool used to re cut the keyway is called a Shaper and looks like this:
shaperJPG-1.jpg

there is one on ebay right now. here's the item number and link: 360130691033
 
we all would probaly agree that the die
would be the way to do it. providing ..
one having access to a die. now for us
thrifty folk...
copper tube,hacksaw,mig welder.
well, i don't work in a hardware store...
so, i use moly.
 
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To weld or re-thread.....

My own personal experience on threading has been that sharp adjustable dies in a handle are the only way to go if cutting new threads or re-threading. Adjustable dies because thread depths vary. You need to match the O.E.M. thread depth so the hardware fits right. Using a chaser nut for new thread cutting is near impossible to get good results. They are designed for chasing threads and since they are fixed it is a crap shoot unless you tried it on a scrap tube first had good results. You usually end up with under sized threads. Using a high quality thread cutting oil is important. I have cut the groove myself with a dremal and it was too easy to go too deep, too wide and off at an angle. If you made a fixture or guide you would probably get better results then I did. Cutting down and using a copper tube for a weld back inside the head tube should be good if you V or slightly chamfer the ends of the tubing then have a good welder mig or tig it back together, having oriented the groove in the right place first. BW:eek:
 
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