SKPC
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
I may chime in with my experiences with noisy old drivetrains. With the old "skip-tooth" (1" pitch) drivetrains, there can be many things contributing to the noise you hear. See above posts. After finally getting some clarity regarding your sprocket(Front), & cog(Rear) it reminded me of when I ran a new rear Ichi cog and a near new front ring with a brand new Diamond Chain. NOISY! How is that possible? I thought maybe the chain-line was bad?...nope. Maybe the front sprocket is worn? Nope. Chain stretched or worn? Nope. So what's up Doc?
Well, it went away after 100 miles. If you look closely at the unfinished tooth profile of the Ichi cog you notice it is crude and sharp-edged. There is not enough matching machine work done on this crude cog. (like they used to do with pride) If they did, it would create a smooth and rounded profile that better matches the chain curves. If they had done this, you would run silent. Just go inspect some old but unworn prewar sprockets or cogs and look how they perfectly match the chain. Smooth and round profiles that match the links and rollers....not the Ichi. Ichi is cheapy. Made from chinese pot-metal. I actually stripped out the three drive tabs on one of these cogs that mount to the hub as I was just riding along (yes it had some miles on it) and it left me stranded.
So if the new cheepy Ichi is what you have on your bike, the hard-edged, cheap pot metal junk will eventually wear down to match the profile of the chain better, so in about 100 miles it will finally quiet down. After discovering these things, I abandoned the cheap but expensive Ichi cogs and returned to grinding down every other tooth on 20 or 22 tooth Sturmey Archer sprockets....nice and quiet, easy to find, cheap, hard metal and it won't leave you stranded....some may not agree that modifying these sturmey sprockets is ideal, but I have found many reasons to not necessarily agree with that. I have had great luck with them, narrow or not. I just used Ben Franklins' decision making T-column technique.
And went back to the high-quality metal..
Well, it went away after 100 miles. If you look closely at the unfinished tooth profile of the Ichi cog you notice it is crude and sharp-edged. There is not enough matching machine work done on this crude cog. (like they used to do with pride) If they did, it would create a smooth and rounded profile that better matches the chain curves. If they had done this, you would run silent. Just go inspect some old but unworn prewar sprockets or cogs and look how they perfectly match the chain. Smooth and round profiles that match the links and rollers....not the Ichi. Ichi is cheapy. Made from chinese pot-metal. I actually stripped out the three drive tabs on one of these cogs that mount to the hub as I was just riding along (yes it had some miles on it) and it left me stranded.
So if the new cheepy Ichi is what you have on your bike, the hard-edged, cheap pot metal junk will eventually wear down to match the profile of the chain better, so in about 100 miles it will finally quiet down. After discovering these things, I abandoned the cheap but expensive Ichi cogs and returned to grinding down every other tooth on 20 or 22 tooth Sturmey Archer sprockets....nice and quiet, easy to find, cheap, hard metal and it won't leave you stranded....some may not agree that modifying these sturmey sprockets is ideal, but I have found many reasons to not necessarily agree with that. I have had great luck with them, narrow or not. I just used Ben Franklins' decision making T-column technique.
And went back to the high-quality metal..
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