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Speedway/Goodyear

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B607

Finally riding a big boys bike
I just finished this one from parts I had on hand. Thanks to AS Nutbolt for providing a few missing crank parts. Still debating on whether to find chainguard or not. 1940 Schwinn frame with “E” serial no, fork from prewar girls bike. I test rode it and if you take your hands off bars it will put you in the ditch. I wonder if prewar boys and girls had different angles on the head tube? This tubular fork is locking and post war truss rods fit it perfectly. I’m running high pressure Bontrager tires on my rider and I was shocked how mushy these old Goodyear's are. Like riding in mud. They sure look nice though. The wheels were already built and came off an unknown brand of tandem bike. Yellow band with .105 spokes. Walnut grips made by a member from S Dak. Can’t remember his name. I got the kickstand off Amazon and it has height adjustments. Prewar frames have more ground clearance. My last build. Selling off all my bike stuff except for one bike.

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When diagnosing "a pull problem" you want to check the easy things first, then work your way up the ladder. First, tire air pressure, flip the front wheel around 180 degrees, use a wheel centering gauge to check both wheel centers, exchange wheels with another bike. All things to isolate the issue.

Since it's easier to check the frame alignment than the fork alignment start with the frame. Just use a piece of string from the right rear drop out, up over the head, and back to the rear left side drop out. Compare the distance from the seat tube to the string on each side. If the distance is the same, you have to move on to the fork alignment. Bikes that pull are very annoying to ride. You will find the problem, and it's usually something simple.

Put the fork steerer tube into a vise. Use a long steel ruler on each side of the steerer tube and compare those measurements to the inside of the fork ends. Was the fork set to the hub lock nut distance? You should not need to spread or squeeze the fork when installing the wheel. Your riding problem is not Rake, or any possible difference in Rake between a men's and lady's fork.

John
 
I just finished this one from parts I had on hand. Thanks to AS Nutbolt for providing a few missing crank parts. Still debating on whether to find chainguard or not. 1940 Schwinn frame with “E” serial no, fork from prewar girls bike. I test rode it and if you take your hands off bars it will put you in the ditch. I wonder if prewar boys and girls had different angles on the head tube? This tubular fork is locking and post war truss rods fit it perfectly. I’m running high pressure Bontrager tires on my rider and I was shocked how mushy these old Goodyear's are. Like riding in mud. They sure look nice though. The wheels were already built and came off an unknown brand of tandem bike. Yellow band with .105 spokes. Walnut grips made by a member from S Dak. Can’t remember his name. I got the kickstand off Amazon and it has height adjustments. Prewar frames have more ground clearance. My last build. Selling off all my bike stuff except for one bike.

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Glad I could help you with your build, well even though it wasn't much ,but I really like how your bike looks and turned out so far ,the stance, the paint,the tires ,all looks great !

P.s. you got my name a lil backwards, lol

Rafael ~
 
When diagnosing "a pull problem" you want to check the easy things first, then work your way up the ladder. First, tire air pressure, flip the front wheel around 180 degrees, use a wheel centering gauge to check both wheel centers, exchange wheels with another bike. All things to isolate the issue.

Since it's easier to check the frame alignment than the fork alignment start with the frame. Just use a piece of string from the right rear drop out, up over the head, and back to the rear left side drop out. Compare the distance from the seat tube to the string on each side. If the distance is the same, you have to move on to the fork alignment. Bikes that pull are very annoying to ride. You will find the problem, and it's usually something simple.

Put the fork steerer tube into a vise. Use a long steel ruler on each side of the steerer tube and compare those measurements to the inside of the fork ends. Was the fork set to the hub lock nut distance? You should not need to spread or squeeze the fork when installing the wheel. Your riding problem is not Rake, or any possible difference in Rake between a men's and lady's fork.

John
Thanks John! You’ve given me a lot of things to check. I just put all these parts together so now the bugs have appeared. I’ll work on it!
 
Killer looking bike and color combo = done right !!!!
Are you selling this one. I saw your comment about selling all but 1 bike.
Kato
 
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