Steel frame repair

[Barking dog]

This is my first post as I am a new member and new to bike restoration in general. The project that has sparked my interest in this fascinating hobby is a 1954 Western Flyer that bought for $20 from an antique store salvage pile.

I have disassembled the bike and stripped the rust from the frame. During this process I discovered a 1/4 inch split in one of the seat stays (see picture). Setting cost aside for the moment, what is the correct repair for this problem? I have investigated TIG welding but people with that expertise and equipment aren’t that easy to find.

Taking cost into account is there an effective if not as aesthetically pleasing that will get the job done?

To be clear, I understand that this bike is not valuable and I understand that it is going to cost more than it’s worth to get it rideable. That being said I am open to your sage advise in this matter.

 

[alecburns]

For a crack that small and on the bike it's on I would use JB Weld or some sort of body filler. Sand it smooth and once there's a repaint it will be unnoticeable.

 

[Freqman1]

Might be a ‘64 but not a ‘54. Any competent welfare should be able to fix this at minimal cost. If that frame flexes at all while riding JB Weld will pop out. V/r Shawn

 

[fordmike65]

Is that actually a crack or burst due to freeze damage?

 

[anders1]

Is that actually a crack or burst due to freeze damage?

That is what it looks like doesn’t it....

 

[fordmike65]

That is what it looks like doesn’t it....

Pic is kinda blurry, but it does look more like a burst than a crack.

 

[bikecrazy]

MiG weld would be fine and cheaper that Tig. I would take a pair of channelock plyers and squeeze the tube to see how strong or weak it is. If it passes the test,take it to a welding shop and have it done right.

 

[Barking dog]

Thank you all for the advice. What is the practical difference between a freeze burst and a crack (metal fatigue)? Should they be treated differently?

Regarding the year of the bike, I based my guess on the serial number, beginning with M0T. I had seen some Murray serial number decoding suggesting that indicated a ‘54 bike. Is the estimate of ‘64 based on frame style or other clues?

I also took the bike to be a Western Flyer, based on the serial number. There wasn’t enough paint left on it to suggest otherwise. The tank fenders and chain guard were long gone.
Thanks again!

 

[Duchess]

Metal fatigue is very unusual with steel on a bike, though it happens with aluminum. These were rolled sheet tubes, so they tend to blow out at the seam (which is why good bikes use seamless tubes). I'm not a metallurgist, but I imagine fatigue failure would be more compromised as the area around the failure would be probably only just better than the failed section with microfractures extending around it. I imagine freeze damage would be localized to the failure and should be a simple repair. Had the same thing on a seat stay on my (girl's) Spaceliner. I just peened it back into place, filed it smooth, and used a high build primer. There's a slight indent, but barely noticeable. The bike is very flexible, but not from the compromised seat stay.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Brown primer with a darker brown paint (e.g., Chestnut) may hide the crack or re-rusting, (but then it might look too similar to how you first found it).
The root cause of the problem may have been use of poor original materials.
Yes, the frame style is a Murray 1958-1968? double twin tube frame, with middleweight tires; aka. space bike style.
In the middle 1950's Murray still had the double bar tank bikes.
I would not rely on those published 1937-1959 Murray serial numbers for a space bike.
My current guestimating system is to equate the year with the 1st digit of a 6-digit sequence number; (assumes less than 100,000 per year).
For example, a left drop-out marked (blah blah blah), then 234,567 might be a 1962.
Every collection should have one space bike; we all make mistakes.