View attachment 676944
View attachment 676945
Make sure you get parts from a main factory hub, not a copy or license-built hub. Try to get a part as close in era to yours as possible. The above picture shows an evolution of AW drivers from the late 1940s/early 1950s to the 1970s. Notice that there are subtle differences in driver tine shape and thickness. The closer you are to your shape, the better. I've found all of these drivers will basically "run" the AW hub, but that if you get one very different from yours, the shifting will be dodgy or the neutral between Normal and High will expand (not a good thing).
From left to right: drivers 1 and 2 will interchange. They're very slightly different, but pretty close. They both have plain, tapered tines.
The third driver is from the 1960s. It has "radiused" tines that are slightly different from earlier drivers.
The last driver is 1970s-era and is obviously different. It has a "step-down" and the tines are not as beefy at the bottom.
In a pinch, they all should drive the hub, but you may find a bit of a loss in reliability if you get a hub from a drastically earlier era, and a much later part.
It gets worse if you get an Austrian-made or off-brand part. There were even more differences in the license or copy built AW hubs from other makers. Those may not interchange.
So.... they mostly do interchange, but avoid a very different era part or a part from a copy or license-built hub.