When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sturmey-Archer
- Thread starter 1motime
- Start date
#eBayPartner Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
Gordon
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
If it is frozen with rust you will more than likely have to replace the pawl springs when you get it cleaned up and start reassembling. The springs are very delicate and it doesn't take much for them to break/disintegrate. I have a few of the springs and a number of other parts for the AW. You didn't specify which model hub you have.
Hi Gordon
Thanks for your reply. I am completely unfamiliar with these hubs. It is original to the bike. Prewar. I saw some info that these are dated on the shell. No numbers on this one. Just the AW. Thanks for the tip about the pawls. I will keep that in mind. It is soaking right now. Not sure how to approach it when it is pulled from the bucket. Watched a You Tube video about the rebuild. Sort of intimidating!
SirMike1983
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
The undated hubs are from the era around WWII in many cases. You can sometimes get information from whether the hub says "Patented" versus "Patent Applied For", which would allow you to use the Patent granting date as a "before versus after". It sounds like the hub is indeed original to the period right before WWII - 1939-41. This would be a fairly early model AW with a threaded driver. Some but not all of the later and more common AW parts can serve as spares. The early hubs are a little different from the more common models on the 1960s-70s era bikes. An overhaul can be done by someone reasonably handy with basic tool and who has access to a manual or a good how-to online guide/video. Attention to detail is important, as is staying clean and organized. But the hubs are not ultra-complex like the much later internal gear hubs from Rohloff etc.
Thanks for the further info. I will check Patent wording when it comes out of bucket. I am hoping the frozen is mostly grease rather than inner rust. The rest of the bike was completely frozen but showed no previous wear at all to metal. I think I might try to do it myself. Your advice about attention to detail, cleanliness, and organization is well taken. Lots of parts lurking inside! My problem is that I am good with my hands but no longer with my fingers!
Oilit
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
I take it your hub looks like the picture near the bottom of page 4 of this thread?
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/w...ou-have-them-tell-us-about-them.151709/page-4
In Sheldon Brown's article on older Raleigh bicycles, under the heading "Dating Your Raleigh 3-speed Bicycle", he states that "In the '30's, they only used a single digit, i.e. "6" for "1936". After that, they started using two-digit date stamps." That would make the hub in the thread a 1939, and the owner said that agreed with the bicycle's serial number. I believe 1936 was the first year for the AW.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html
Pictures are always helpful.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/w...ou-have-them-tell-us-about-them.151709/page-4
In Sheldon Brown's article on older Raleigh bicycles, under the heading "Dating Your Raleigh 3-speed Bicycle", he states that "In the '30's, they only used a single digit, i.e. "6" for "1936". After that, they started using two-digit date stamps." That would make the hub in the thread a 1939, and the owner said that agreed with the bicycle's serial number. I believe 1936 was the first year for the AW.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html
Pictures are always helpful.
Thanks! Maybe there is a single digit. It is soaking in the bucket of OA. I like to give things a month. One more week. I will check it out and post photos. It is a prewar New World but the 3 piece cranks are not dated. Serial numbers for these bikes do not exist and the hub date would help!
SirMike1983
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Right, if it's particularly dirty, you may not see a light-strike date code. Sheldon is correct that many of the early AWs have a single-digit date code. Some have no date code, particularly in the era right before and after WWII. So if you have the single-digit code, great. If you have no date at all, you have to settle for an approximate date. We finally have a workable serial number chart for the pre-war and war-era New World bikes here on this site. So if you have an approximation on the hub and a serial on the bike, you can get fairly close, I would think.
piercer_99
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Similar threads
