Suggestions on varnishing wood bicycle rims.

[Agustino J. Napoli]

Looking for advice on varnishing wood rims. So far I have considered the positive and negatives of , Tung Oil, Marine Varnish and oil base Polyurethane ,I do not want to wreck up this wheel set so I'm reaching out to more experienced members. Also haven't decided on brush , spray or rag. This is a unlaced rim, If you have the time to reply I thank you in advance. Thank you Augustino Napoli

 

[bentwoody66]

I left mine with old english minwax stain and beeswax and orange oil.

 

[bentwoody66]

This is the wax

 

[DonChristie]

Are they new or old rims? If you are going to have a wood finish, sand it with a few different grade sand paper ending with 220. Grain-shows nicer with sanded wood. Minnwax polyurethane is what I use on wood projects. The color of stain is what you like. Pics?

 

[Duchess]

If you're just looking for a natural protectant for something that will live a life of ease mostly indoors, I'll second the Feed-N-Wax.

If you're looking for a UV protectant and sealer that brings the life out of wood grain, I don't know how much you want to spend (though you probably only need a 250ml can), but for a varnish, Epifanes is at the top. I used it on the deck of a wood kayak after reading about how difficult it is to varnish and it could not have been easier or had better results (minus a single drip under the coaming) just following the directions on the can. It's a marine product, so it obviously can withstand whatever this bike would go through and it uses the best ingredients. The kayak lives in the garage, but it's spent months outside, has been in the ocean, and banged around, and I think it's going on 8 years. The paint is beat up, but the varnish still looks good. On the other wood kayak deck, I have automotive clear coat and the difference in appearance is dramatic, with the CC looking lifeless next to the glow of the varnish. For stain, Varathane or Zar go on incredibly smooth and easy and blend without effort or care.

 

[dnc1]

I use regular yacht (marine) varnish, it goes on very well and really brings out the grain patterning in the wood.
I regularly revarnish antique wood rims with it before using them as intended.
I sand down the rims first, carefully avoiding areas with any manufacturers logos (usually printed on with ink, but occasionally decals), then apply 3 very thin coats using a good brush.
I allow to dry and flat with flour grade (0000 grade) wire wool between coats.
It lasts well in my damp English climate and the wheels get used in all weathers.

 

[Agustino J. Napoli]

Are they new or old rims? If you are going to have a wood finish, sand it with a few different grade sand paper ending with 220. Grain-shows nicer with sanded wood. Minnwax polyurethane is what I use on wood projects. The color of stain is what you like. Pics?

There new wood glad 700c,s, I've also seen a Poly product made for exterior window sills I'm considering. Thank you Don. I,ll be posting pictures of the frame. I bought it as a Dayton SM bike, the hubs read Dayton but the badge holes go east west not north south. Like to get a identification on the frame so I can get a proper badge for it. Thanks Again Agustino

 

[Agustino J. Napoli]

If you're just looking for a natural protectant for something that will live a life of ease mostly indoors, I'll second the Feed-N-Wax.

If you're looking for a UV protectant and sealer that brings the life out of wood grain, I don't know how much you want to spend (though you probably only need a 250ml can), but for a varnish, Epifanes is at the top. I used it on the deck of a wood kayak after reading about how difficult it is to varnish and it could not have been easier or had better results (minus a single drip under the coaming) just following the directions on the can. It's a marine product, so it obviously can withstand whatever this bike would go through and it uses the best ingredients. The kayak lives in the garage, but it's spent months outside, has been in the ocean, and banged around, and I think it's going on 8 years. The paint is beat up, but the varnish still looks good. On the other wood kayak deck, I have automotive clear coat and the difference in appearance is dramatic, with the CC looking lifeless next to the glow of the varnish. For stain, Varathane or Zar go on incredibly smooth and easy and blend without effort or care.

Hey thanks Duchess, Thank you for your suggestion of Epifane It sounds like what I,m looking for. thank you for your time Agustino

 

[Agustino J. Napoli]

I use regular yacht (marine) varnish, it goes on very well and really brings out the grain patterning in the wood.
I regularly revarnish antique wood rims with it before using them as intended.
I sand down the rims first, carefully avoiding areas with any manufacturers logos (usually printed on with ink, but occasionally decals), then apply 3 very thin coats using a good brush.
I allow to dry and flat with flour grade (0000 grade) wire wool between coats.
It lasts well in my damp English climate and the wheels get used in all weathers.

Thanks dnc1 for the finishing techniques its very much how we finish violins in my trade.Agustino

 

[Cossack38]

I used Epiphanes on a WWI SPAD propeller. That stuff is lovely to work with, and I was very pleased with the result.