When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

The Potential of a 2020 Orange Krate: An Evaluation of Original Condition and Potential

#eBayPartner    Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
Really Nicely done, I would love a crate but the new ones are the only ones in my price range. Your right the huge grin is a good gage of a bikes intrinsic value. I'm reconsidering buying a repo then i will have one in my collection.

My big thought from all of this is to not go into it expecting to get a copy of a 1970 (or whatever) Krate. What you are getting is a great embodiment of the *idea* and *feel* of what a Krate is supposed to be.

Do it!
 
How many of you had an Orange Krate Schwinn 40 or more years ago before they were collectors items? I did and I gave it away when I moved out of my parents house. It was heavy and the springer front was not as stable at high-speed as a standard front fork. Kids don't need five-speeds like that Krate had either, just one more thing to break and ad weight. But it is the "American Way" to always want more of anything and participate in fashion trends, and that is all the Krate is here for now and the only reason it was here in the 60s.
 
Additional thoughts:
  • The hand grips are really sticky, not like the hard, smooth surface that 1960s have. They pick up grease marks from dirty hands really easily. If you aren't regularly working on your bike, it may not be an issue, but for me, it's almost enough to make me want to replace them.
  • I ride my old bikes cautiously. There's something really nice about being able to ride a bike, well, like a new bike with a warranty. I realized this when I pulled hard on the handlebars the other day and they flexed a little. Rather than thinking "Shoot, how much are similar bars going to cost to obtain, if I can find them", I thought "They shouldn't be so flimsy - but that's what the warranty is for." It's a lot less stress, which makes for a more fun ride - which is what this is all about, I think.
 
Regarding the drum cable routing... why not route it as if running a disc brake cable?
I like that idea, but running it on the upper stay would require attaching the arm to the upper stay, which, visually, feels really weird to me.

Or, I could be totally misunderstanding what you are saying. Here's where I am:

CF2BE8A0-9F66-418F-9265-956AEFF1CA5C.jpeg


Here's the drum arm as installed. Note that I am missing the return spring (and am actively looking for one) and that I used the axle nut I used because it was the only one I had handy that fit!

detail.jpg


Illustration of the intended cable routing, detail of this document, from Hadland's Blog.
Cable routing.jpg


From what I can tell, the cable is going to have to pull, approximately, on the line illustrated below, in order for there to be enough leverage.

CF2BE8A0-9F66-418F-9265-956AEFF1CA5C.jpeg


I appreciate any and all thoughts on this matter. Thank you.
 
I honestly forgot that the disc is a vertical pull back there. I also agree that moving the lever to the upper stay is a bad visual.
 
I bet you could route the cable into the mechanism as shown in the illustration but backwards with some adaptation. Put the adjustment screw pointing rear wards so that the cable housing lops out the back and up the rear stay. The cable would mount statically at the front of the brake lever and the housing would move dynamically at the rear... not sure if that makes any sense?
 
I bet you could route the cable into the mechanism as shown in the illustration but backwards with some adaptation. Put the adjustment screw pointing rear wards so that the cable housing lops out the back and up the rear stay. The cable would mount statically at the front of the brake lever and the housing would move dynamically at the rear... not sure if that makes any sense?
I don't think I'm understanding. Are you thinking something like this?

CF2BE8A0-9F66-418F-9265-956AEFF1CA5C (1).jpeg
 
Major note:
The Orange Krate comes with plain orange paint and a metallic seat.
The Grape Krate comes with a lovely metallic paint and a flat purple seat.
 
Back
Top