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The Royal Imperial with Sturmey Archer AW-9

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Yep, 1939. A big plus is the 1930s-1940s AW hubs take threaded track cogs rather than the three pip and snap ring Shimano style cogs.
How do I go about getting the cog off? The snap rings are a pain but easy to comprehend. Trying to figure out this threaded cog. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
Hi 3-speeder,

This gorgeous decal/sticker is available on the e-bay UK site for only 5 pounds! Or, $7.13 from Redbubble.com
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How do I go about getting the cog off? The snap rings are a pain but easy to comprehend. Trying to figure out this threaded cog. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I think I figured it out. I'll have to remove the driver and then unthread the cog.
 
How do I go about getting the cog off? The snap rings are a pain but easy to comprehend. Trying to figure out this threaded cog. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I would use a 1/8" chain whip to remove it before disassembling the hub. Since this in not a 3 speed coaster brake it would have no counter-threaded lock ring.

Once disassembled you risk damaging the driver in removing the cog as it would be difficult to secure it firmly. I would imagine that cog is very tight.
 
Exactly - with the older bikes that have been ridden, the cog is usually very tight. I would make up a second driver with a spined cog of the size of your choice and use that for riding. The driver metal is hard and brittle - it's easy to damage (chip or crack usually) the tines of the driver, or gouge the clutch, if you're not careful trying to unthread the cog with the chainwhip. Kroil and warming may help with removing the old cog, but on some, they just won't come off. If you do choose to make up a second driver with a splined cog, you'll want to try to match the tine profile. Usually the 1950s-60s era drivers are close enough to match. There's a later (stepped) profile driver from the 1970s that may lead to shifting problems if you try to use it.
 
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I have a bike with the "special" model stud for mounting the rear brake to the frame referenced in the ad above. The clamp-on type is easier to work on today because the ones that thread directly into the bottom bracket shell need to index correction to point straight to the rear of the bike. I had to use a crushable lock washer to get mine to index. Yours should just clamp on.


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Thanks guys. I think that I will just leave the cog on the driver. I can clean and service it plenty enough that way. With it working so good already I'm only planning to blast it with the WD-40, let that run out and dry, then clean and repack the bearings and cones. After that I'll ad a little 20 weight oil.
 
Got it all apart without too much trouble. Yay!
Spindle marked Walton & Brown LTD
Headset markings similar to bottom bracket cups, T D C.
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Work is going well. I decided to strip the silver paint from the handlebars and rod brakes and components. It revealed the patina below the paint and this stamping on the brake shoe holders, 1938. Even with the patina and discoloration revealed I am happy I did it. It shows the age of the bike. More photos to come. I did decide not to mess with the rim paint at this time. The citrus stripper I used made it really easy.

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