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I am guessing the second one is camera distortion. Any thoughts on which way it really is?
Yup, camera distortion.

If you want, pop off the fork stanchion top caps and check out what's inside them tubes. Should be long allen head bolts or similar holding the upper and lower stanchions together and probly find springs like pogo sticks in the lowers.
 
😃Nutty but interesting thread, @bloo very systematic documenting findings 👍.

My conclusion junky grips shifters weakest link, failure prone and need Popeye forearms to engage full range. Not designed to be service or operator friendly and easly damaged when hacked for service.
 
Whats most interesting to me is; the effort it takes to make one of these bikes, from all the parts to the assembly and packaging. Then the shipping it takes to get it here, and then the standard minimum 40% minimum mark-up that nearly every retailer in America uses as its bottom line. EQUALS less than $100 US.
And US currency is pretty low in the value department in the world market.
All for a bicycle everyone including the owners agree is a real POS and a waste of human effort.

We are wasting Earths resources and then filling our oceans and every hole we make with the garbage made from wasted resources.
Heres where the "unbridled" part of Capitalism comes in.
UUUUhg.
I will never buy a new bike, and here's another reason. Mindless consumerism
 
Hey @J-wagon, I finally put those shifters back together. So far I'm not impressed. They are cleaned and lubricated and are still pretty hard to turn, so it is not the aging problem I have heard others complain about. Maybe they are better with the derailleur tension against them? Honestly, they seem pretty awful right now. The right has a rubber grip and the left has plastic.

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And the brake levers, plastic, have a pivot distance of 30mm, putting them halfway between short pull and long pull levers I guess. Brakes are low-profile cantilevers.

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The stem is TIG welded up out of tubing. Weird, but I don't hate it.

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Look how they handled the top with a machined top hat piece:

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It wouldn't bother me to use this piece in a good bike, outside of the fact that it looks modern, and my bikes are decidedly not modern.

Does anyone know who this logo belongs to?

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It also turned up on the seatpost and some other part I can't remember right now.

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I was able to clean the rear shock up enough to get it back together. The stripped threads were beyond the range of the spring. I suspect that someone rode the bike initially without tightening the spring. There was a warning sticker NOT to do that, but it was mostly hidden behind the spring, so no doubt easy to miss. I think it also stretched the body a little, as the threads don't quite line up anymore. Nevertheless after cleaninng the threads up I was able to get the nut restarted after getting it past the part of the body with the missing threads. The aluminum of the body is soft. It is very likely prone to damage anyway. I cleaned up the pliers marks on the nut with a Dremel. They were really sharp, probably sharp enough to cut skin.

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This shock is a horrendous POS. Look at where the nut is set, and yes I cranked it down a lot, but even all the way loose, it is not going to reach the obviously stripped part. That means most of the threads are useless even when new. The spring is pretty short. I measured the stroke of the "shock" itself, and it may have to be this way. You couldn't have the spring bottoming out noticeably because that would put all the force into the threads, and they are weak. I measured the coils and added them up, and I couldn't get exact, but the distances were as expected almost the same, presumably to prevent damage.

Because of that, and because you have to press a bushing out to get the nut and the spring off, I doubt anyone changed the spring. Maybe they use this body for different stroke lengths and different springs? From what I see here I doubt it ever comes out well. Replacements are available, and cheap, but this spring rate seems to be hard to find, and sellers are terrible about including the mount dimensions, which can be wrong.

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I stripped the covering off the saddle because It was shredded. VELO, made in Taiwan.

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MATRIX ENER-GEL.

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Staples in plastic? Really?

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I guess if regular old yellow foam is "gel" then it's gel. Or maybe that .020" of white stuff is the gel.

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No matter. We don't need no steenking gel.

Seat guts have this nifty stop to keep from slipping down. The teeth are sharp and the nuts do not feel like they are going to strip. I think this is better steel than the department store grade seat guts from the 70s by quite a bit.

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Nice clean out of the way spot to mount a reflector.

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Satelite not Safelite? LOL.

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Now where was I when I left off a few days ago? Oh yeah, the fork was still bent. More on that in a bit.
 
When I left off, I was looking for an upper headset cone to substitute to make measurement to see if the steerer tube was bent. I found one and quickly figured out, yes it was indeed bent but not that much. I also took the fork all apart. It came apart just like @J-wagon said it would. Finding something to fit inside the steerer tube to prevent damage was a little tough. A Schwinn seatpost would work, and I have a loose one, but I couldn't find it. Finally I found a rigid electrical conduit sweep that fit inside and soon I had the headset running true. Then I laid it on a really flat surface. I picked the leg that was furthest forward to bend. I may have mentioned earlier that one side bends easier than the other, although nothing on this fork is easy to bend. It really takes a lot of force to do anything to it.

The headset was fine, and although it is cheap looking it is pretty good. Even the crown race was good. There was some discoloration that looked like brinelling, but apparently not. It runs silky smooth, even tight. Knowing what a hit this fork must have taken to bend it, that is nothing short of a miracle.

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The bolts are staked apparently to stop them and set the preload evenly.

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Originally they had rubber bumpers on the head, but one had disintegrated. On test assembly, one leg was longer than the other. Quickly corrected by backing one side out about 1-1/2 turns. This is not a real world problem though, because it only occurs when there is no weight on the bike. I also thought it might correct itself with rubber under the bolt heads. Spoiler: yes. Still I wondered if they would be the same length with weight on, so I lashed this up, pulled up one inch of compression, and measured it. It is fine.

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I got these rubber bushings from the hardware store. Too big, but I was able to cram them in there with super lube, and they do not grab the bolts so it's fine.

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So, back together it went, and got installed on the frame. I aligned the dropouts to each other, they were only off a tiny bit. Then I put some threaded rods in, and some strings, and set the steering straight ahead by making the wheelbase exactly the same on both sides. This is looking pretty good.

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And not too bad with the strings measured to the bottom bracket either. About 1/16 (so the error is about half of that). I think it will go straight.

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Next thing is to get the bottom bracket, derailleurs, and chain on. More coming.
 
Ok, so I got the bottom bracket assembled, and the derailleurs and chain and back wheel on and... The rear derailleur is out of line. I had previously lined the dropouts up to each other even though I forgot to get a pic, so that wasn't the problem. The derailleur was out in 2 different planes 🙄. This is a claw type derailleur (yes, in 2007!) and as you may recall I had to silver solder the post to the claw because the factory riveting is loose. I wondered if alignment would be a problem. Spoiler: yes. So, I took it back apart and lined it up, but with the chain tension against it another problem emerged. EVERY joint in this derailleur is loose. Well, every joint except the post riveting I silver soldered. Not just the parallelogram either, the bushings on both pivots are sloppy loose. This thing can be pointing in about any direction at any time. I don't know much about indexing, but it is difficult to imagine how this could work very well. Of course there is a good possibility It wasn't built like this. Maybe it got really clobbered later on. Based on the lack of wear everywhere else, I doubt it happened from years of use. Interestingly, the purple bike on craigslist I posted a pic of earlier has a guard over the derailleur. Probably a good idea. I see no sign that my blue bike ever had one.

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I put the rest of the bike together, set the seat and stem to the maximum markeed height, and set up the derailleurs using the instructions for the Shimano units they appear to be copied from. I have seen a Falcon sheet for the rear one, but it appeared to be the same as Shimano with less detail as I recall. Then I put it in the lowest gear and took a lap around my tiny back yard. First impression: Not bad. I am 6'3" and knew this was going to be like a gorilla on a tricycle, if I could ride it at all, which I sort of doubted. My knees didn't hit the handlebars or anything. In fact, it doesn't even feel very crowded. I've owned 26" mountain bikes that were worse.

The next morning I loaded it up and took it down to a bike trail with a pocket full of tools to adjust everything. There are some issues, and the rear derailleur is the least of the problems. Firstly, these Falcon grip shifters are $%^&^%$%^ HORRIBLE!!! The rear one does index, sort of, after careful adjustment. The clicks are stiff and tend to feel like they overshoot. Maybe they do, but if you try to correct it you go down a gear, so maybe it is an illusion. It is shakiest shifting between the second and third tallest gear. With careful adjustment it works, thought noisy, and the indexing, if you can call it that, is nice to have.

The front shifter on the other hand is not indexing. I don't know what you could call it. Friction with some random clicks I guess. It is truly the most awful shifting I have ever experienced. The spring in the derailleur is extremely stiff and the clicks in the shifter are stiff to hold it. There is no possible adjustment that will make it shift properly. The shift from the middle to largest chainwheel is the problem. Any adjustment that will reliably initiate a shift will occasionally throw the chain off. The best you can do is set it so that it rattles and tries to shift for 4-5 revolutions of the crank, but usually will shift. It will still occasionally throw the chain off to the outside. When tearing this bike down I initially wondered why the plastic guard on the chainrings was so beat up. Now I know. It catches the chain. It is a good thing it is there, because when the chain gets thrown on an upshift you can reach down there and put it back on, rather than having it fall all the way to the crank. Oh yeah, and you can forget any notions of cross-chaining to if you even want it to work this well. I know cross chaining is not a good idea anyway.

The brakes are another problem. They were the only thing that seemed to work properly when I initially drug this home, but it wasn't rideable then so I don't know for sure. The squealing is horrible on the front, and LOUD. After a bunch of readjustment I got it so it doesn't make much noise until the bike is almost stopped, but that last little bit is pretty intense. I couldn't really get decent performance out of the back brake. It won't lock anyway. Earlier, before I went to the trail, the problem was the wheel wasn't quite true. Weird because I had just trued it before I put the tire on. I don't think it was spoke windup because I am aware of that, and also these are straight gauge spokes and wind up less. Whatever, it seems to be stable now. Back at the trail, even after a lot of adjustment, it just isn't very good. Also, the adjuster has bad threads. It isn't slipping, but since it was all galled up it was getting difficult to adjust and wouldn't stay locked because the hole in the plastic brake lever is spread. I wasn't doing any good so I went home. Even with the rather aggressive pull ratio of these levers, you run out of travel and hit the handlebar long before the wheel is locked. There is too much flex everywhere, including the cantilevers themselves. Maybe some compressionless cable housing would help. I don't know. I am going to pick up some new adjusters at the LBS, and maybe try straightening the cantilever posts, but I am pretty much done here. Even doing everything myself I have probably spent ~$30 on miscellaneous smalls at the LBS, and that might(?) be 1/3 to 1/2 of what this bike originally cost. To really work properly my best guess is it would need both derailleurs, both shifters, a modern chain, and maybe a new freewheel. That isn't even touching on the marginal brakes. Yeah that stuff is all cheap, as it would have to be bottom of the line Shimano to fit this bike properly, but it adds up. I'm guessing $100 with careful shopping. It would probably be half that if some of the parts could come from my junkbox. I don't need this bike, so this journey is getting very near the end.
 
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