Threads per inch

[Tom1968]

Does.anyome know how many threads per inch are the threads on the one inch tube for the handle bar neck. I ordered a die but it was 24 tpi and doesn't work so I was wondering if anyone knew for sure. Its seems to have been the same since my 33 colson is same a a new huffy and schwinn. The dies cost about 50.00 each so cant afford another mistake
Thanks in advance

Tom

 

[Sven]

When you say not working, do you mean it seems like it does want to start? The reason I ask this , is that I took my fork [ 24tpi ] in to be re-threaded at my LBS ($15 ), The mechanic told me that, other than being slightly cross threaded, the top could be very slightly out of round, causing it not to catch. He did get it re-threaded , and it works well.
I dont know if Colson used a different tpi or not. I am not saying thast the problem, but it might be something to take in consideration..

 

[the tinker]

If your tap works on your Schwinn, it will work on the Colson. Sven is right about the threads being screwed up because the steering tube is slightly out of round. If your Colson head nut fits your Schwinn, that's the problem.
When I sell a fork at a swap meet, I usually have a head-nut on it. This does two things. It shows potential buyers that the fork tube threads are good, and keeps them good. I have seen many forks screwed up because of being dropped, dinging the threaded end. One other thing, I always use a fork Jack to fix bent forks. The fork gets straightened while it's installed on the bike. There are many who comment saying ,"You don't need no Jack, just heat the bend red hot, stick a pipe in the end of it, or over it and bend it back." Be careful, that's another way the threaded end gets ruined. The threads are 1 inch- 24
Lots of old forks that have been off a bike and laying around have this problem. Carefully examine it. If its out, it can be put back in round by working it back to shape with a hammer and anvil. Sometimes all that is needed is to file the end of the threads, if they appear smashed in. I have threaded lots of forks that had damaged ends. Before you try anything, try your die again.... Are you using the proper die handle? Or did you just buy the die and have no handle? That may be your problem. Some fellows just use a big crescent wrench to hold the die. This will not work if the threads are goofed up. The die handle makes the user use both hands and keeps pressure on the die, forcing the die into the threads and giving the user control to start the die. The die handle is about 20-24 inches long. Some manufacturers heat treated the fork tubes, that's why post war to 1970's Schwinn tubes seldom bend and are harder to thread. Other companies, like Murray and Monark used mile steel flat stock to form their steering tubes and did not heat treat the finished tubing. That's why they bend so easily. Colson's , I think , were heat treated. Another good point was made by Archie, that i am not sure of, Vince could shed some light on this. On taps, there are bottoming and starting taps. I am not sure on dies. Are some dies harder to start than others?

 

[vincev]

first thing is to check with a thread gauge to make SURE of the threads per inch.If you dont have a thread gauge then count how many threads are in an inch. Once that is established check the threads for flat spots and with a small file clean them up ,check for roundness,Make sure you dont cross thread.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

I use a black Sharpie pen on the threads, where they are best, and press-transfer the ink to a piece of thin cardboard; then I get a pencil out and mark 1" ends, and start counting the threads (ink marks), marking every 4th-5th one if I start too loose count (because they are so small and hard to see).
If there are not 1" worth of good threads, one may measure by the half-inch - 24 & 26 tpi would have 12 & 13 threads in a 1/2 test area, (so its important for the count to not be off by only 1).

Most used 24tpi; Westfield was one exception - 26tpi for a while. Odd bikes (European or recent?), not too classic, may be metric (25.4tpi).
Something to consider is, why one may be trying to get a tap on the threads in the first place; many threads are bulged or damaged, which makes starting a tap more challenging. I have been meaning to cut my tap, so that it may be enlarged somehow, and not cut away too much material.

Another method is to use a metric scale with 1mm divisions - that's 25.4 tpi; if the threads line-up, its metric; if the threads are close but tighter than 1mm (25.4), then they may likely be 26; if looser than 1mm (25.4), then they are likely 24tpi.

 

[HIGGINSFOREVER]

24 tpi for sure

 

[49autocycledeluxe]

a good investment for old bike people is a thread file. I had a fork that was messed up pretty good until I broke out the thread file. when I was done the head nut threaded on like a new fork.

I later found out that an old wedge and a piece of the goose neck bolt was down inside the fork so all me efforts were for nothing.

 

[Tom1968]

Does.anyome know how many threads per inch are the threads on the one inch tube for the handle bar neck. I ordered a die but it was 24 tpi and doesn't work so I was wondering if anyone knew for sure. Its seems to have been the same since my 33 colson is same a a new huffy and schwinn. The dies cost about 50.00 each so cant afford another mistake
Thanks in advance

Tom

Excellent info. I will give it s whirl. I replaced the section of the tube with the threads with one from an old huffy. Threads a 5åå the same as the nut spun right on. What I have to do is add another 1/2 " of threads since I cut the doner piece a little long. With your i.format i'l on I. Sure I will get it now

 

[Thurman]

I've been using a 1''-24tpi die for over 25 years and it has fit every bike i had. The secret is to get an adjustable die. Tighten the screw and it expands so you can easily get it down to the good threads below the messed up ones. Then loosen the screw so it fits tight and work it back through the damaged threads. I paid $64 for it back then.

 

[the tinker]

These dies are handy. I bought this fork a couple years ago.

When I tried to install it on a frame yesterday , it was hard to screw the bearing cap on. One pass with the die and it will be fine. I have seen these for sale at swaps before. Always pays to ask the older bike guys for them when you are at a swap. Some guys buy out other collectors and accumulate several of these.