Threads per inch

[Tom1968]

I've been using a 1''-24tpi die for over 25 years and it has fit every bike i had. The secret is to get an adjustable die. Tighten the screw and it expands so you can easily get it down to the good threads below the messed up ones. Then loosen the screw so it fits tight and work it back through the damaged threads. I paid $64 for it back then.

Great info. I ready paid over 50 for a non adjustable one. I don't have and bad threads. I need to add about 1/2 more threads so I work with it and see if I ca. Get it started.

 

[Tom1968]

If your tap works on your Schwinn, it will work on the Colson. Sven is right about the threads being screwed up because the steering tube is slightly out of round. If your Colson head nut fits your Schwinn, that's the problem.
When I sell a fork at a swap meet, I usually have a head-nut on it. This does two things. It shows potential buyers that the fork tube threads are good, and keeps them good. I have seen many forks screwed up because of being dropped, dinging the threaded end. One other thing, I always use a fork Jack to fix bent forks. The fork gets straightened while it's installed on the bike. There are many who comment saying ,"You don't need no Jack, just heat the bend red hot, stick a pipe in the end of it, or over it and bend it back." Be careful, that's another way the threaded end gets ruined. The threads are 1 inch- 24
Lots of old forks that have been off a bike and laying around have this problem. Carefully examine it. If its out, it can be put back in round by working it back to shape with a hammer and anvil. Sometimes all that is needed is to file the end of the threads, if they appear smashed in. I have threaded lots of forks that had damaged ends. Before you try anything, try your die again.... Are you using the proper die handle? Or did you just buy the die and have no handle? That may be your problem. Some fellows just use a big crescent wrench to hold the die. This will not work if the threads are goofed up. The die handle makes the user use both hands and keeps pressure on the die, forcing the die into the threads and giving the user control to start the die. The die handle is about 20-24 inches long. Some manufacturers heat treated the fork tubes, that's why post war to 1970's Schwinn tubes seldom bend and are harder to thread. Other companies, like Murray and Monark used mile steel flat stock to form their steering tubes and did not heat treat the finished tubing. That's why they bend so easily. Colson's , I think , were heat treated. Another good point was made by Archie, that i am not sure of, Vince could shed some light on this. On taps, there are bottoming and starting taps. I am not sure on dies. Are some dies

If your tap works on your Schwinn, it will work on the Colson. Sven is right about the threads being screwed up because the steering tube is slightly out of round. If your Colson head nut fits your Schwinn, that's the problem.
When I sell a fork at a swap meet, I usually have a head-nut on it. This does two things. It shows potential buyers that the fork tube threads are good, and keeps them good. I have seen many forks screwed up because of being dropped, dinging the threaded end. One other thing, I always use a fork Jack to fix bent forks. The fork gets straightened while it's installed on the bike. There are many who comment saying ,"You don't need no Jack, just heat the bend red hot, stick a pipe in the end of it, or over it and bend it back." Be careful, that's another way the threaded end gets ruined. The threads are 1 inch- 24
Lots of old forks that have been off a bike and laying around have this problem. Carefully examine it. If its out, it can be put back in round by working it back to shape with a hammer and anvil. Sometimes all that is needed is to file the end of the threads, if they appear smashed in. I have threaded lots of forks that had damaged ends. Before you try anything, try your die again.... Are you using the proper die handle? Or did you just buy the die and have no handle? That may be your problem. Some fellows just use a big crescent wrench to hold the die. This will not work if the threads are goofed up. The die handle makes the user use both hands and keeps pressure on the die, forcing the die into the threads and giving the user control to start the die. The die handle is about 20-24 inches long. Some manufacturers heat treated the fork tubes, that's why post war to 1970's Schwinn tubes seldom bend and are harder to thread. Other companies, like Murray and Monark used mile steel flat stock to form their steering tubes and did not heat treat the finished tubing. That's why they bend so easily. Colson's , I think , were heat treated. Another good point was made by Archie, that i am not sure of, Vince could shed some light on this. On taps, there are bottoming and starting taps. I am not sure on dies. Are some dies harder to start than others?

Many thanks for the detailed reply. Sorry about taking so long to get .back on this. Ended up in the hospital with brain tumor. They got it out and I am sporting a new acricylic plate and titanium mesh plugging the whole. Am doing great and no memory loss except for memories of my x-wife. Back working on the bike and you were spot on. Tube was slightly out of round but once I got the die started and ran it up and down about 20 times, it's just like new. Many thanks for the reply. Now to find the correct pedals for the front and rear. I assume they are the same but I really dont know and i dont know where to start looking except for this forum. Would also like to find a document that might help me identify which parts were used on the original. Right now it's a resto-mod and as I find the correct parts I'll grab em up. I'll try to post pic of the down tube I welded up using a new huffy neck I sacrificed to get good threads.. thanks again..

 

[Shawn Michael]

Lots of great info here. I think I need to get myself a die too. Thanks fellow Cabers.

 

[the tinker]

Sorry to hear about the tumor. That's about as bad as it can get. Thank God you are okay. Stay well my friend.

 

[Sven]

Welcome back....wow....glad to hear they got all of the tumor. Glad your back in the game.

 

[Tom1968]

Tumor yes but benign thank goodness. Any idea where i can find reference material on a 1933 colson tandum bicycle
Trying to find out what pedals would be close to original
Whats on it now are what i think are more modern all metal with big teeth thay dont have typical blocks
Not sure where to look. Lots of pedals on web but i dont know whats "factory correct". Thanks in advance

 

[juvela]

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Lots of great information here!

One minor tip -

make sure the guide ring on the holder is a snug fit on whatever stock you are cutting, steerer in this case, so that cutter cannot wobble. This is particularly important if you are making new threads.

And remember to use plenty of cutting oil to save your cutter's surfaces!

If you should ever have occasion to need to cut threads on a titanium steerer...let someone else do it. The titanium is so hard it will dull your die's cutters "fast'r 'n greas'd lightnin' "

Second the suggestion of 48autocycledeluxe on the purchase of a thread file - very useful/handy and low cost to boot.

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