TOC Corbin Hub Rebuild

[KevinsBikes]

I’m wondering when braking is weak after rebuilding the hub if the discs can be replaced or the shell itself wears down, or both?

I knew these were a little risky to rebuild but I laced it into a VB 35 anyway since it did stop decent when just doing it with the bike upside down, riding it is riskier as the braking is weak.

I’m not sure if I’ll continue to rebuild it not knowing if it’s the shell or the discs or both. I have another set I can try out, but wondering if anyone has had success in making these ridable again. I put a new cog on it which works great, coasts and drives perfect.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

I am considering using a 10mm wide by 0.2-0.3mm thick, flat metal ribbon, strip or tape, fitted inside the circumference of the hub shell, kind of similar to the 1918 Madsen patent No. 1,272,690; except without the inwardly-rolled edge (or flange?).

1903 ND Duplex, Corbin Hub restoration | Antique Bicycles Pre-1933

I have added .25mm stainless strips to some worn brake shoes, and wondering if the thicker strips that old in the shoes need to be replaced / more springy so the brakes can expand properly. I’m not even sure these are the appropriate stock items to hold the shoe in.

thecabe.com

Not sure if either brass or steel would work the best; thinking that JB Weld's extreme heat paste-type adhesive might also help keep the shim attached to the shell. The thickness of the shim might not be a one-size fits all, based on the measurable wear on the brake surfaces, (shell and shoes), on different hubs.

Another option, suggested earlier by @Andrew Gorman, might be to trim a SKF Speedy Sleeve # 99226 (or similar), to the correct 10-11mm width.

SKF

www.skf.com

 

[Rambler]

I’m wondering when braking is weak after rebuilding the hub if the discs can be replaced or the shell itself wears down, or both?

I knew these were a little risky to rebuild but I laced it into a VB 35 anyway since it did stop decent when just doing it with the bike upside down, riding it is riskier as the braking is weak.

I’m not sure if I’ll continue to rebuild it not knowing if it’s the shell or the discs or both. I have another set I can try out, but wondering if anyone has had success in making these ridable again. I put a new cog on it which works great, coasts and drives perfect.

Most of these early brake hubs have so little friction surface area they are rather ineffective at stopping. Some were even stated in advertisements to be speed controllers not necessarily actual brakes. Best thing to do for improving friction is use a rather thin grease such as white lithium or even just oil on the brake shoes because most modern automotive greases are rather too good at reducing friction. You actually need to use a grease more similar to what was available 100 years ago which will improve brake stopping performance as much as possible assuming the braking surface is not completely worn out.