Hi, After getting a much appreciated continuing education in 26 x 1.375 tires, I need to ask about spokes. In reviewing other posts, I think I’ve figured out that Torrington 080-060 spokes are called double butted because the diameter of the spoke is slightly larger on each end of the spoke than in the middle. Assuming that is correct – PLEASE TELL ME IF I’M WRONG - then the spokes on this Compax are most likely 080-060, since the actual ends are close to .080 diameter but the middles are closer to .064. Dummy me took lots of pre-disassembly pics of the bike for help in putting things back together but I didn’t really examine the relationship of the spokes to each other very closely on the rear wheel. By that I mean I didn’t look to see if spokes that crossed each other actually touched each other. The rear hub is completely de-spoked so it’s too late to examine it but none of the spokes on the front hub seem to touch each other. My question then is can I replace 080-060 double butted spokes with straight 080 spokes – the same diameter for the length of the spoke – without creating any future problems? Thank you.
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Torrington 080-060 spokes
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bairdco
I live for the CABE
Simple answers, yes, they're called double butted because they're thicker on the ends.
Yes, you can lace them with regular spokes of the same length and gauge.
Spokes "touching each other" doesn't matter. Most people interlace their wheels, meaning the under spoke comes over the top of the over spoke at the last cross. This makes for a stiffer wheel, but isn't necessary.
Yes, you can lace them with regular spokes of the same length and gauge.
Spokes "touching each other" doesn't matter. Most people interlace their wheels, meaning the under spoke comes over the top of the over spoke at the last cross. This makes for a stiffer wheel, but isn't necessary.
Thanks! You don't have to answer this but something inside of me has to ask. Is there a known reason why Torrington went to all the trouble of making double butted spokes when a spoke of all one gauge appears infinitely more logical and cost effective to a bike novice like me? Thanks again!
LOL, I can see the weight savings angle - all 72 grams worth if they saved a gram per spoke - but I would think thicker "rod" would have more strength. No matter, as long as no butted and double butted are interchangeable, I have twice the possibilities of finding NOS spokes. I have a another question about spokes that I'll save for another thread but I'm still trying to get my head around both these wheels using the same length spokes, when the diameter of the front floating hub is about 2 3/4" and the ND brake rear hub is about 2". Logic says the spokes on the front should be half of the extra 3/4 - or 3/8" shorter - but mine are the same. Thanks again!
ricobike
Wore out three sets of tires already!
Earlier bikes used a cross 4 pattern for spoking. The angle relative to the hub doesn't change with this spoke pattern so the spokes are always the same length, no matter what the size of the hub is.
A thousand years ago, I did OK in algebra and trig, but had they had a required course on spokes, I'd probably still be there. Thanks for your explanation but I'm sure glad there isn't going to be a test afterwards... Seriously, whenever I go to re-spoke, hopefully what you said will make a lot more sense to me than it does now. So far all I've learned about spokes is you can't remove a spoke without at least loosening the next spoke because the next spoke covers enough of the first spoke head where it's "locked" in place. THANKS!
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