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Twin Bar restore project

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Where did you get the parts rechromed? I bought a twin (in transit) and i will need parts rechromed.. thanks John
 
I have had so many people asking about the chrome work that I have to put out his info.
It was done by Santa Rosa plating, Santa Rosa CA, the owners name is Chico. 1(707)585-1378 His is very into making sure everything is perfect and that your happy with everything. He has stuff sent to him from all over the country and is pretty busy, but takes his time and gets it done right the first time. That is my experience with him. I just talked to him and said it was ok for me to post his number because it's a public work number. Just tell him you saw Nathans bike parts that he did.
 
Ok I had some days off so I worked on my project. I spent almost two days in the 95 degree heat sanding and dripping sweat. I used a primer resurfacer. It was thick and had a hardener mixed into it so it set off in 15 minutes. It was like spraying on, easy to sand. Bondo, to fill all the pitting.

Inside the head shroud was the original color so I decided to do an exact color match to the original. I used a color coat, clear coat process with a urethane finish.
So two days sanding and prepping then on day painting and clear coating.

The original rear rack was really causing me trouble..... for the life of me I couldn't get it to get flat, had a bow in it like someone used it in the past carrying something something heavy. Then I looked at pictures and saw the same thing on a few other restored bikes.....
The question is did they come with a slight bow to them? or do I have more work to do?



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Untitled by then8j, on Flickr
 
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The rack should be perfectly flat. If it is bowed the sides may have stretched and will require a smeetmetal shrinker to get them back to original.
 
I was in a similar dilemma recently. The racks do indeed need to be laser straight (pet peeve of mine anyway). I started with this Elgin rack which had been used as a second seat countless times, I worked on it slowly trying to square it up on the X and Y axis with hand tools. I clamped it to the workbench upside down and squeezed it level with blocks, then massaged the sides straight again, it eventually yielded nicely.

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Thanks Phil. Shrinker sounds funny. How does that work?

Every time I would flatten out the top it caused the sides would bow out and wrinkle. I guess the sides have stretched out.
Makes sense to me now why someone in the past put on extra support brackets on this rack, they used to use it to carry things, paper route is my guess.....

At this point I believe that I'm going to have to come back to the rack and rework the whole thing, but in the meantime put all the rest of the bike together.
 
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My knowledge of metal shrinkers is minimal, what I do know comes from my proximity (shared shop space) to a friend who does automobile body restoration. He has devices that look sort of like pliers that grab two points along a surface and force them together. Most dents in automobile sheet metal (especially in aluminum) stretch the metal as much as they deform it.

Another way to compensate for metal stretch on the sides is to cut a very small wedge out of the side, pull the remaining metal together, and weld the cut.
 
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