Archie Sturmer
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Looks too nice to even add convenient accessories, such as baskets or a rear rack.
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Western Flyer
- Thread starter Cat67
- Start date
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Arnold Ziffel
Finally riding a big boys bike
CAT, it is very nice looking bike.
You might consider buying a used set of 7881 Schwinn handlebars, and throw those away if you want to make the bike look spiffy with nice chrome. Those are easily found as MILLIONS of SCHWINNS between 1967 & 1977 had those. They are among the most comfortable too. I have built alot of tourist bikes from old ten speeds with drop bars, using these & have upgraded Target & Walmart cruisers for my neighbors at the beach. Even 50 year old Schwinn 7881 bars in good condition improve the appearance of those new bikes. You cannot get chrome quality like that anymore. Golf club manufacturers have not had really good chrome plating on the blade style IRONS since maybe about 1983 or 1984. Wilson (then the leading golf equip manufacturer ) had problems with the chrome plating on its pro only, top of the line Staff Tour Blades in 1978, but resolved issue by 1980 but chrome quality was still not equal to what had been on Kmart clubs(store-line models versus golf pro shop clubs) between 1950 and 1977. Acushnet's Titleist Tour Model irons from the early eighties were the last to have great chrome plated heads. Todays super expensive top of the line blade IRONS have chrome which is equal to Kmart clubs of the sixties & seventies, really good and durable enough, but not of the same flawless brilliance and durability of top of the line Irons before the eighties. The only manufacturer today that makes great quality chrome today is True Temper and that is because of certain long-time old school pro-type golf shaft that is still manufactured to the same exact specs as yesterday, though a few grams lighter and with better tolerances. The majority of PGA tour pros still use this True Temper shaft. Otherwise, chrome plating is a very simple process but it is one of the most enviromentally destructive if waste runoff occurs and the chemicals used in the process are allowed to leak into the soil or surrounding streams, lakes, rivers, ponds, etc. For this reason, many states and areas have effectively banned Chrome Plating as mostly only those firms that are multi-million dollar manufacturing operations can meet the regulations and "clean manufacturing" process. Even the smallest penalty for improper operation and containment would likely immediately bankrupt and close smaller manufacturing operations and likely have the principals potentially looking at an all expense paid, extended stay at the graybar hotel. Ask anyone that has tried to find firms to re-chrome automobile parts, - bumpers, etc, or tried to get bicycle parts, or old golf club iron heads re-chromed. There aren't many places in the USA anymore, and often these last few firms have had to move like gypsies to certain areas of the country where there are few regulations and folks aren't too concerned about having a potential toxic dump site next door .
So basically I am telling you that you cannot find any new bicycle parts today that will have decent, lasting, chromium plating.
There are still a couple of firms that can re-chrome auto parts, golf club heads, even bicycle parts to a very high quality like was done 50 years ago, but be prepared to pay dearly for that. I suggest the old SCHWINN 7881 bars because I believe that their shape and comfort is the best of any ever made and secondly because this design coincided with the period of the largest amount of bicycles ever sold, you're in luck because they are still everywhere. You can go on Ebay at any time on any day and find at least three near perfect 7881 handlebars for around ~$20. -----sometimes a good bit less but when you total it up with the shipping cost included, they are mostly around the same price.
I WOULD KEEP THOSE COOL WESTERN FLYER HANDLEBAR GRIPS & REUSE THEM ON THE SCHWINN 7881 handlebars. I wouldn't even change that cheapo Wald type stem that Murray used on the Western Flyer. That cheapo stem is as good as any other stem, in terms of functionality, and it is part of the Murray/Western Flyer heritage. NOBODY WOULD EVER KNOW THAT YOU INSTALLED 7881 Schwinn handlebars UNLESS YOU TOLD THEM.
When you find them, the two numbers after 7881 will indicate the year of manufacture. This does not matter as they are all the same, and the chrome quality is the same great quality. For example 7881-67 is 1967 production date, and 7881-75 is 1975 production date. Just some of the models that the 7881 came on from 1967 - 1977 are BREEZE, COLLEGIATE, SUBURBAN and others....(millions) The stamping of 7881 is on the portion that goes unseen when clamped in place.
There are many other handlebars you could consider also BUT WHAT IS THE POINT OF CHANGING IF THE PRESENTATION (if it looks crappy) IS NOT SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE ON YOUR murrayWESTERN FLYER. Your bike looks great, the paint, the wheels, and those things ride nice, if you're looking for nicer looking handlebars, the old 7881 Schwinn bars are a great solution. The acquisition cost is very low also. Just find one that isn't dented or rusted where there is chrome loss or peppering visible. You also should GREASE the two caged bearings in the bottom bracket. It is super easy to do. You will need a 12" / 300mm ( 12 Inch) $9 crescent wrench from HARBOR FREIGHT.........cheapie is as good as any...........reason that you need the 12" crescent wrench is because the JAWS open wide enough to fit the large nut on the One Piece crank. I recommend cleaning the two caged bearings outdoors and away from buildings, pets, and children, with gas from your lawnmower's gas can.......... just enough in a bean can or cut in half Coke/beer can ....only about tiny amount is needed, just enough to sink the caged bearings for an hour or more..........use a J bent piece of coat hanger to fish them out, and wear disposable rubber gloves etc to protect your skin.......SYNTHETIC WATERPROOF Green Grease (brand name) is available at Auto Zone, NAPA, and all the other auto parts stores......comes in a 14oz cartridge tube........open one end and use a fast food plastic knife or plastic spoon to remove the amount that you need.....reseal with aluminum foil and rubber bands......cost is around ~ $9 or $10 ......that 14oz of grease will last forever unless you have a huge number of bikes.
I would then take fresh automotive motor oil........weight doesn't matter too much, brand does not matter.......Take a golf tee, pencil, or a Nail and dunk it in the motor oil so that it drips like a dropper of the point of it..................what you're gonna do is turn the bike on its side a drip 15w-40 or whatever it is into the front and rear axles so you get some fresh oil on to the wheel bearings, etc............The motor oil will seep in there, be patient, and spin the tires/wheels......do it from both sides.......do the same with the pedals trying to let motor oil seep into the pedals..............WIPE EVERYTHING PERFECTLY CLEAN AFTERWARDS...........................you need not buy an entire can of motor oil........your neighbor who changes his car's oil in the driveway may have a tiny amount left over...............DO NOT EVER USE 3 in 1 OIL !!! 3 in 1 OIL (Blue container) that says MOTOR OIL 20wt SAE is okay, but not regular 3 in 1 OIL.......... you can re-use any empty 3 in 1 oil container, just make sure its empty and refill it with quality motor oil.........the spout stem yanks out and can be push back on the can/container, but the hole to fill it is only about the size of a hole punch in notebook paper/binder etc. I also favor the old-school approach to oiling the bike chain with fresh automotive motor oil.....something like 15w-40 but most anything will work....... Many cyclists today don't like that approach but hey I prefer the oiling and then cleaning with lighter fluid/gas until perfectly clean of dirt and re-oiling. I think the chains last longer, the gears last longer , derailleur gears last and fuction better and it rides better. I am not a fan of the wax the chain method that is popular today.
You might consider buying a used set of 7881 Schwinn handlebars, and throw those away if you want to make the bike look spiffy with nice chrome. Those are easily found as MILLIONS of SCHWINNS between 1967 & 1977 had those. They are among the most comfortable too. I have built alot of tourist bikes from old ten speeds with drop bars, using these & have upgraded Target & Walmart cruisers for my neighbors at the beach. Even 50 year old Schwinn 7881 bars in good condition improve the appearance of those new bikes. You cannot get chrome quality like that anymore. Golf club manufacturers have not had really good chrome plating on the blade style IRONS since maybe about 1983 or 1984. Wilson (then the leading golf equip manufacturer ) had problems with the chrome plating on its pro only, top of the line Staff Tour Blades in 1978, but resolved issue by 1980 but chrome quality was still not equal to what had been on Kmart clubs(store-line models versus golf pro shop clubs) between 1950 and 1977. Acushnet's Titleist Tour Model irons from the early eighties were the last to have great chrome plated heads. Todays super expensive top of the line blade IRONS have chrome which is equal to Kmart clubs of the sixties & seventies, really good and durable enough, but not of the same flawless brilliance and durability of top of the line Irons before the eighties. The only manufacturer today that makes great quality chrome today is True Temper and that is because of certain long-time old school pro-type golf shaft that is still manufactured to the same exact specs as yesterday, though a few grams lighter and with better tolerances. The majority of PGA tour pros still use this True Temper shaft. Otherwise, chrome plating is a very simple process but it is one of the most enviromentally destructive if waste runoff occurs and the chemicals used in the process are allowed to leak into the soil or surrounding streams, lakes, rivers, ponds, etc. For this reason, many states and areas have effectively banned Chrome Plating as mostly only those firms that are multi-million dollar manufacturing operations can meet the regulations and "clean manufacturing" process. Even the smallest penalty for improper operation and containment would likely immediately bankrupt and close smaller manufacturing operations and likely have the principals potentially looking at an all expense paid, extended stay at the graybar hotel. Ask anyone that has tried to find firms to re-chrome automobile parts, - bumpers, etc, or tried to get bicycle parts, or old golf club iron heads re-chromed. There aren't many places in the USA anymore, and often these last few firms have had to move like gypsies to certain areas of the country where there are few regulations and folks aren't too concerned about having a potential toxic dump site next door .
So basically I am telling you that you cannot find any new bicycle parts today that will have decent, lasting, chromium plating.
There are still a couple of firms that can re-chrome auto parts, golf club heads, even bicycle parts to a very high quality like was done 50 years ago, but be prepared to pay dearly for that. I suggest the old SCHWINN 7881 bars because I believe that their shape and comfort is the best of any ever made and secondly because this design coincided with the period of the largest amount of bicycles ever sold, you're in luck because they are still everywhere. You can go on Ebay at any time on any day and find at least three near perfect 7881 handlebars for around ~$20. -----sometimes a good bit less but when you total it up with the shipping cost included, they are mostly around the same price.
I WOULD KEEP THOSE COOL WESTERN FLYER HANDLEBAR GRIPS & REUSE THEM ON THE SCHWINN 7881 handlebars. I wouldn't even change that cheapo Wald type stem that Murray used on the Western Flyer. That cheapo stem is as good as any other stem, in terms of functionality, and it is part of the Murray/Western Flyer heritage. NOBODY WOULD EVER KNOW THAT YOU INSTALLED 7881 Schwinn handlebars UNLESS YOU TOLD THEM.
When you find them, the two numbers after 7881 will indicate the year of manufacture. This does not matter as they are all the same, and the chrome quality is the same great quality. For example 7881-67 is 1967 production date, and 7881-75 is 1975 production date. Just some of the models that the 7881 came on from 1967 - 1977 are BREEZE, COLLEGIATE, SUBURBAN and others....(millions) The stamping of 7881 is on the portion that goes unseen when clamped in place.
There are many other handlebars you could consider also BUT WHAT IS THE POINT OF CHANGING IF THE PRESENTATION (if it looks crappy) IS NOT SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE ON YOUR murrayWESTERN FLYER. Your bike looks great, the paint, the wheels, and those things ride nice, if you're looking for nicer looking handlebars, the old 7881 Schwinn bars are a great solution. The acquisition cost is very low also. Just find one that isn't dented or rusted where there is chrome loss or peppering visible. You also should GREASE the two caged bearings in the bottom bracket. It is super easy to do. You will need a 12" / 300mm ( 12 Inch) $9 crescent wrench from HARBOR FREIGHT.........cheapie is as good as any...........reason that you need the 12" crescent wrench is because the JAWS open wide enough to fit the large nut on the One Piece crank. I recommend cleaning the two caged bearings outdoors and away from buildings, pets, and children, with gas from your lawnmower's gas can.......... just enough in a bean can or cut in half Coke/beer can ....only about tiny amount is needed, just enough to sink the caged bearings for an hour or more..........use a J bent piece of coat hanger to fish them out, and wear disposable rubber gloves etc to protect your skin.......SYNTHETIC WATERPROOF Green Grease (brand name) is available at Auto Zone, NAPA, and all the other auto parts stores......comes in a 14oz cartridge tube........open one end and use a fast food plastic knife or plastic spoon to remove the amount that you need.....reseal with aluminum foil and rubber bands......cost is around ~ $9 or $10 ......that 14oz of grease will last forever unless you have a huge number of bikes.
I would then take fresh automotive motor oil........weight doesn't matter too much, brand does not matter.......Take a golf tee, pencil, or a Nail and dunk it in the motor oil so that it drips like a dropper of the point of it..................what you're gonna do is turn the bike on its side a drip 15w-40 or whatever it is into the front and rear axles so you get some fresh oil on to the wheel bearings, etc............The motor oil will seep in there, be patient, and spin the tires/wheels......do it from both sides.......do the same with the pedals trying to let motor oil seep into the pedals..............WIPE EVERYTHING PERFECTLY CLEAN AFTERWARDS...........................you need not buy an entire can of motor oil........your neighbor who changes his car's oil in the driveway may have a tiny amount left over...............DO NOT EVER USE 3 in 1 OIL !!! 3 in 1 OIL (Blue container) that says MOTOR OIL 20wt SAE is okay, but not regular 3 in 1 OIL.......... you can re-use any empty 3 in 1 oil container, just make sure its empty and refill it with quality motor oil.........the spout stem yanks out and can be push back on the can/container, but the hole to fill it is only about the size of a hole punch in notebook paper/binder etc. I also favor the old-school approach to oiling the bike chain with fresh automotive motor oil.....something like 15w-40 but most anything will work....... Many cyclists today don't like that approach but hey I prefer the oiling and then cleaning with lighter fluid/gas until perfectly clean of dirt and re-oiling. I think the chains last longer, the gears last longer , derailleur gears last and fuction better and it rides better. I am not a fan of the wax the chain method that is popular today.
razinhellcustomz
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Find your self some Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover works the best for this older bikes chrome.. Nice bike.. Enjoy and RideOn... Razin...
razinhellcustomz
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Don't waste your money on new bars, as yours do not appear to be pitted.. They should clean up just fine.. Those Murray bars are just as comfy as the Schwinn Wald bars and they are half the price... RideOn.. Razin...Arnold! Thank you so much! I will do exactly that! I appreciate the wealth of info. You should write books as your words make it very easy to envision what you articulate! I appreciate this advice so much. Off to find my handle bars now!
Cat
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