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20200628_095334.jpg
 
Been wanting to join the 'Roadster Club' for a while now and have been building a 1936 Schwinn Double bar project. This was just a first assembly to see if all the pieces are here and if they fit together. Had to cut a few corners, like putting on a lady's seat, to finish before it got too dark to go for a ride.

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On this, its maiden ride, I went about ten blocks round trip. It was like riding a bucking bronco that was none too happy to have me on its back. Could feel both the front and rear hubs need rebuilding and maybe new bearings. The seat is too far forward and the handlebars hit my knees. The pieced together chain made enough of a racket that it turned the heads of every bystander.

None of this would dampen the beauty of this model's lines or the joy of my first ride on a Schwinn Roadster!
"First make it go, then make it pretty"
More to come...

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OK, I'm doing something wrong.
Right pedal- straight up,
mark the start of tire touching ground,
Pedal crank one full revolution until right pedal straight up again. 214 inches
I did the same with Velvet (same gear and tire size) 216 inches
I don't know.:eek:

Gear inches calculates how big of a wheel (in diameter) you'd have to have with no gearing to get the same ride as your bike. Think of the wheel attached to the cranks on a high wheel bike. The gear inches calculation uses the diameter of the theoretical wheel where your test is measuring the circumference of that wheel. Easy conversion, just divide your number by pi (3.14) and you'll have your gear inches for your bike as it's geared (circumference / pi = diameter).

If all of your wheels are the same size on your bikes, you can just use your gear sizes to figure out how the bikes will ride best. I have bikes with different size wheels (16, 20, 24, 26), so I use Sheldon Browns Gain Ratio calculator to help make them ride similarly. It basically takes gear inches and adds crank length to the calculation.

Ride on! :)
 
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