What goes in a rear hub?

[bleedingfingers]

That hub is almost exactly the same as the Perry I just finished overhauling it works exactly the same way .
Do not get any grease on the inside of the hub shell and the brake cylinder .
I've had a few of the Perrys and would not put on the Vaseline like they suggest in the above Rebuild instructions .
(if you want it to stop )
Grease the bearings and use grease sparingly on the other moving parts .
While you have it apart check the inside of the hub for wear if its shiney like a mirror take some sandpaper and ruff up the surface .
It will be shiney on the brake side and dull on the drive side make it all dull .
The ribs on the brass brake cylinder also wear down and get smooth you can ruff them up like they suggest above but not too much .
Do not remove too much material .
Mine is 80 years old and will now stop on a dime before I had to stand on it to slow down .


The strap is covering the oil hole inside it is exactly the same as the Sachs

 

[guzziworksman]

Thanks for the advice. My first job is to get the hub apart...and it's not cooperating. It's apparent that it disassembles from the drive side...put there's no pin wrench in my shop. A big screwdriver and tapping has yielded nothing. I'll keep at it - I just want to avoid damage.

 

[3-speeder]

Do you have an axle vise? Very helpful to lock up that axle safely. A pair of channellocks can sometimes suffice as a pin wrench.... sometimes..
Axle vise https://www.parktool.com/product/axle-vise-av-1

 

[bleedingfingers]

Comes apart on the brake arm side not drive side and should be very easy .
put the square end of axle on the drive side in a vice or hold it with a small open end wrench or crescent wrench .
take a channel lock and remove cap nut number 2 on the diagram on the brake leaver side .

All you are doing on the drive side is removing the sprocket and you do not need to also I believe that lock ring is reverse thread .
leave it alone as it can be stripped easily .

If it is loose you can tighten it back up when it's back on the bike with a hammer and punch .
If it's not tight it will skip or slip when you pedal .
I just went through this with my bike .

 

[bleedingfingers]

Just realized that your hub may have the snap ring on the drive side to remove the sprocket I have both types .
But still you don't have to remove unless you are changing sprockets .

 

[Cooper S.]

Let’s see the rest of the bike too

 

[rustjunkie]

Thanks for the advice. My first job is to get the hub apart...and it's not cooperating. It's apparent that it disassembles from the drive side...put there's no pin wrench in my shop. A big screwdriver and tapping has yielded nothing. I'll keep at it - I just want to avoid damage.

the torpedo comes apart from the brake arm side

 

[rustjunkie]

perry and similar sachs service instructions here;

Schwinn Service Manual Volume 1 | Bicycle Restoration Tips

thecabe.com

 

[guzziworksman]

Let’s see the rest of the bike too

Here's the bike...PO photo; I'm servicing, cleaning it now, and have it down to the frame. IMHO, it's in exceptional condition. Doesn't have the correct chain guard nor saddle.

 

[guzziworksman]

I have it down to the lever cone. This is all brand-new to an old idiot. How do you remove this...?