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What goes in a rear hub?

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I have it down to the lever cone. This is all brand-new to an old idiot. How do you remove this...?
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put the brake arm on and use it to unscrew.


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Slip the brake arm back on to hold onto and just spin the axle out on the other side .
1/4 inch open end wrench fits perfect on the square end of the axle .
You can also use adjustable wrench channel locks etc .

Takes a bit of wiggling to get it back together but you'll figure it out once you see it come apart.
Also might take a couple of times to get the cones adjusted properly so it spins right .

Hopefully rustjunkie can put up some reassemble instructions as it all has to line up perfectly to get it back together .
I have a spare so might be able to help when it comes time to put it back together

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I would use a 30w 50/50 or synthetic oil. That is what the ND-D called for iirc.Grease the outsides & oil the center through port. Grease acts as the outer seal & the oil lubricates the "discs". I never repacked the 1 I cleaned for use but if I re lace it into something else it's ready.

I heard the ND-D will lock up & skid when done right. Oilit owns the Only Perry I have had but it was non oil port. I never did the grease on it to ride it.
 
Still don't recommend oil or Grease it's a drum brake like on your car .
Would you grease or put oil on your brake shoe's ?
The guy that told me not to grease it was a second generation bike shop owner now retired as third generation is running the shop.
The first time I redid one I put oil in it sped up when you put the brakes on .
Though it might work on the ones with a steel brake drum .
The hub shell above is a new model and has no oil port.
 
Still don't recommend oil or Grease it's a drum brake like on your car .
Would you grease or put oil on your brake shoe's ?
The guy that told me not to grease it was a second generation bike shop owner now retired as third generation is running the shop.
The first time I redid one I put oil in it sped up when you put the brakes on .
Though it might work on the ones with a steel brake drum .
The hub shell above is a new model and has no oil port.
Once upon a time, I had a Model T Ford. Its brake consisted of wooden brakes shoes soaked in hot oil that clamped down on a smooth metal drum - also soaked in hot oil. Never made any sense to me, but it worked. Nowadays, you don't so much as put a fingerprint on a rotor, when doing a brake job. Not questioning the validity of putting oil in the hub under question, here. It's just something I remembered...
 
Some coaster brakes use oil they are not all built the same New Departure have a row of discs inside
and should have some lube the Sachs and Perry's have brass brake drums .
That Schwinn guide probably shows how to service all of them .

I've done CCM Model 37, Perry , New Departure , Shimano, Sturmey Archer, and a bunch of Generic and European hubs and there's all kinds
and they all work a little differently .
The hub in the picture has no markings on the brake arm or shell so It could be a Sachs or a Perry
but the axle actuator and brake drum out of it are now in my 80 year old Perry hub shell on my bike .
And it left 2 skid marks on my neighbours driveway so it works .

I'm just telling you what worked for me .
Also told you my version as not everybody has a vice on there workbench or even a workbench .

Let me know how you make out putting it back together and I'll help out if I can .
 
Some coaster brakes use oil they are not all built the same New Departure have a row of discs inside
and should have some lube the Sachs and Perry's have brass brake drums .
That Schwinn guide probably shows how to service all of them .

I've done CCM Model 37, Perry , New Departure , Shimano, Sturmey Archer, and a bunch of Generic and European hubs and there's all kinds
and they all work a little differently .
The hub in the picture has no markings on the brake arm or shell so It could be a Sachs or a Perry
but the axle actuator and brake drum out of it are now in my 80 year old Perry hub shell on my bike .
And it left 2 skid marks on my neighbours driveway so it works .

I'm just telling you what worked for me .
Also told you my version as not everybody has a vice on there workbench or even a workbench .

Let me know how you make out putting it back together and I'll help out if I can .
I will very definately be in touch! Your advice has been very helpful. I've had a few hubs apart - and they've all been very different from one another. One of them - on a 1950s(??) Japanese bike - a Gold Star, made by New Made Cycle - I started taking the rear hub apart because it was the only way I could respoke it...and created a non-functioning hub through my own lack of knowledge. I'll get back to it someday, and maybe you could advise. These are the only pics I have of it, at the moment. The problem came in when I pulled the left side off...and discovered that the entire "drum" had about 50 eighth-inch ball bearings around its circumference; those bearings were separated in pairs by quarter-inch-long hollow tubes...the grease had long disappeared, so that when I pulled the mechanism apart, ball bearings and tubes began raining all over the floor. I'll get back to it, some day. Here are a few pics.
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A car drum brake uses actual brake shoe material, a coaster brake is metal on metal so some form of oil or grease is required if you want it to work predictably - either after repeated use or long use on a hill. Otherwise it's just an on/off switch with no modulation once it gets hot. Some bad advice being given here imo.
 
Autocycleplane

Think I'll trust my friend the 70 year old bike mechanic's advice who's been one nearly all his life and who's father was also one .
And I've rebuilt 4 of these hubs myself. The last one being 80 years old and works perfectly.

They do say to use oil on the driver which is right beside the brake drum and I imagine there is a little leakage .
I think they say in the Schwinn Book instructions to use a small amount of Vaseline don't think that would last very long .
The brake shoe in this case they call it the brake drum is made of Brass over cast iron .
I wonder if it is as hard or abrasive as a modern brake pad ?

I think the original point I was trying to make is don't take a grease gun and fill that hub up with grease just because it has a grease nipple
because it will not have brakes if you do .


I'm not on here to get into a debate just trying to help out a guy with something I've had actual experience with.
But you are entitled to your opinion .
 
guzziworksman
I would not have a clue what to do with that bike but can relate to a bike raining loose bearings all over the place .
If it's an old bike that I don't have experience with I put a drop sheet under my bike stand to catch them
and when I put them back in I have a great niece with skinny little fingers who likes to help putting them back in.
Good luck with your bikes
 
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