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What is going on here?

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Id like to add . The chainguard can be mounted in inside of frametab or outside. Depending on clearance requirements.. I thought I saw maybe fender didn't have relief for chainguard to tuck in. Been a long time since I built this 48. Barely clearing on non drive side. The bearing cone - all diff size so I had to choose a good 1 And cups were worn etc. I hope you have plenty of spare parts for this build.

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Install your peddles. If the crank arm/arms are bent you should be able to tell by the angle of the peddles. Is it the original chain guard? Maybe the chain guard is tweaked? Try moving the guard as far forward as possible. If that doesn't work, try going aft. Position it where the interference is the least. Then gently persuade the guard away from the arm.

Thanks for your input. The chain guard is original. I have mounted the guard on the inside of mounting tab and outside...no luck with clearance.
 
i.d. like to add . The chainguard can be mounted in inside of frametab or outside. Depending on clearance requirements.. I thought I saw maybe fender didn't have relief for chainguard to tuck in. Been a long time since I built this 48. Barely clearing on non drive side. The bearing cone - all diff size so I had to choose a good 1 And cups were worn etc. I hope you have plenty of spare parts for this build.

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I have just the opposite for clearances...plenty of clearance on the non-drive side but barely clears on the drive side. Yet, with the string test, the rear triangle appears true. Strange.
 
Theres a jig to check the trueness of the frame
I used a string from rear-drop outs, around head tube and back around. Measuring seat tube to string appears to be the same for both sides concluding the rear triangle is in alignment. Could the bottom bracket be off? Puzzling!
 
Just looked at pic showing "straight. crank in frame. .Definitely too many threads exposed on non sprocket side. So lets move it (crank) over with intent of clearing frame. When I work on bikes lately I'm limited to parts that are usable. Schwinn stuff is common but older parts from 10 spd. would work? What I would look for are adj. Cones of diff. Thicknesses. All I have left now are repro anniversary BB cups. threw all worn out cups+cones away. Looking at BB on mine you see thicker cups.
 
Just looked at pic showing "straight. crank in frame. .Definitely too many threads exposed on non sprocket side. So lets move it (crank) over with intent of clearing frame. When I work on bikes lately I'm limited to parts that are usable. Schwinn stuff is common but older parts from 10 spd. would work? What I would look for are adj. Cones of diff. Thicknesses. All I have left now are repro anniversary BB cups. threw all worn out cups+cones away. Looking at BB on mine you see thicker cups.

Great suggestions. I’ll check the cups and compare with another B6 and try to work the crank threads over giving more clearance on the drive side. I will also expirement with mounting the guard on different sides of the mounting bracket one more time.
 
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