Arnold Ziffel
Finally riding a big boys bike
John:
I suggest that since you don't know how to properly fit the chain on your Paramount, that you should take the bike along with your replacement chain to one of your local bike shops (preferrably a long time existing shop that specializes in road bikes and has weekly rides, etc). The reason is that, they would love to see your Paramount, and will probably fit your chain in less than 3 minutes while you wait (estimated cost to have them install your chain should be $15)
Don't go there during their last hour of the day, or within 90 minutes of one of their weekly scheduled evening rides BECAUSE they will be working feverishly to complete the tuning on regular clientele's rides that will be going with the pack on the evening ride from the bike shop.
I guarantee you that they will ordinarily stop to immediately install your chain during typical less rushed hours of say 11AM and 3PM BECAUSE it is a PARAMOUNT. It is the same as driving a 1963 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud to get replacement wiper blades at the auto parts store. Everybody will be helpful because they want to look it over and help you. Now if it were a Free Spirit, GMC Denali, or Varsity, they might not be so helpful. Some snooty bike shops might tell those such bike owners that those such bikes are better serviced by XZG bike shop across town, as they usher the bike and its owner towards the exit door.
Just asking if you have really given thought to having a corncob freewheel with 22 cog as your 1st gear(low gear)??
You better be a very accomplished rider who is currently physically fit, or you are going to struggle with having the combination of 42 front and 22 rear as your LOW GEAR which translates to a (52 GEAR......actually 51.545).
That isn't particularly good if you aren't in athletic physical condition (e.g. someone who can at least finish or be competitive in a sprint triathlon, where the bike portion is 22 miles)
If you aren't in good athletic physical condition, it is my opinion that you are making a serious mistake UNLESS everywhere that you ride is as level and flat as a billiard table. If not, you are going to have a helluva time on HILLS, where you wear yourself out. You'd be better served to go with something with 28 cog as the 1st gear cog, or at least a 26 cog as 1st gear cog.
Doing so, should still allow you to use the Campagnolo rear derailleur.
For example if you were to choose the 26 cog, with the 42front and 26rear, you'd have (44 GEAR....actually 43.615)
THAT 44 GEAR is actually probably the golden ticket if you don't have steep hills.
For example if you were to choose the 28 cog, with the 42front and 28rear, you'd have (41 GEAR.....actually 40.5 )
This 41 GEAR would allow you to navigate hills.
* the reason that I mentioned that the 26 cog (42F/26R) which gives 44 GEAR might be the golden ticket is because this assumes that you as a Paramount Owner are already a physically strong accomplished rider.
I do not mean any disrespect, and I am not telling you what to do. I am simply presenting you with some factual data which you might not have considered. I do understand that you might already know all of this, but for the benefit of possibly someone else seeing this thread, it may be helpful to those others that might not be so informed about this.
JOHN, this might not be relevant to you, but here from the 1971 Schwinn OWNERS Manual about the 1971 PARAMOUNT.
The 1971 Paramount has 24-21-18-16-14 on the freewheel with 52/49 up FRONT (gear range of 55GEAR to 100GEAR)
****John, your own proposed set up on your 1973 model of using a 22 cog is actually still superior to the factory 1971 model, since you have 52/42 up FRONT....so using the 22 cog as you have planned to gives you (gear range of 52GEAR to 100GEAR)
assuming that a 14 teeth cog is the smallest on the freewheel.
I don't have the original factory specs on your specific 1973 year model PARAMOUNT P-13-9.
If you know the teeth on the freewheel cogs and what the specific number of teeth on the two front chainrings, it is a very simple calculation.
FRONT SPROCKET divided by REAR SPROCKET = "result"
Take that "result" and MULTIPLY by WHEEL SIZE (use 27 for all 27" 630mm & 700C 622mm wheels)
Example: You have a bike with 700C wheels and you have 45 teeth on Front Chainring & 15 teeth on Rear Cog
45 divided by 15 = "result"
45 divided by 15 = 3
3 X 27 = 81 GEAR
Hey, just do this super simple math calculation for each gear combination to compile your own gear chart.
It will not make your PARAMOUNT any less of a bike if you choose to go with a superior Japanese made Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleur and a superior Japanese made SHIMANO freewheel or Japanese made Maeda Industries-SUNTOUR freewheel. Campy is cool and European is cool but the fact of the matter is that those two Japanese brands are at least twice as good. None of the European rear derailleurs come even close to the smooth reliable shifting of a SUNTOUR rear derailleur.
You also have the ability to go LARGER than a 28 teeth rear cog if you want to.
If you go with LARGER than a 28 teeth rear cog, PLEASE REMEMBER THAT YOU MUST USE A Suntour or Shimano rear derailleur so equipped to handle 32 or 34 teeth. Campy cannot reliably shift anything beyond 28. Neither can the other Europeans, such as Simplex & Huret. It will be a disappointing, losing proposition if you do try to use a European at 30 or beyond. Thousands of folks in the early seventies would routinely replace the CAMPAGNOLO rear derailleur on their new ten speed with a Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleur. Fifty plus years later, that same Campy rear derailleur is still a second class hunk of junk compared to a Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleur of that time period. Certainly that Campy rear derailleur is decent enough, okay to do the job, but comparatively speaking from an operational functionality and reliability perspective, the Maeda SUNTOUR unit is in fact that much better!
Now, if your aim is to simply sell (flip) the bike or create a museum piece, then perhaps install the CAMPY and the original seat, pedals, other oem parts, etc. If you are gonna ride the bike, you should definitely consider upgrading it such that it works better for you!
I suggest that since you don't know how to properly fit the chain on your Paramount, that you should take the bike along with your replacement chain to one of your local bike shops (preferrably a long time existing shop that specializes in road bikes and has weekly rides, etc). The reason is that, they would love to see your Paramount, and will probably fit your chain in less than 3 minutes while you wait (estimated cost to have them install your chain should be $15)
Don't go there during their last hour of the day, or within 90 minutes of one of their weekly scheduled evening rides BECAUSE they will be working feverishly to complete the tuning on regular clientele's rides that will be going with the pack on the evening ride from the bike shop.
I guarantee you that they will ordinarily stop to immediately install your chain during typical less rushed hours of say 11AM and 3PM BECAUSE it is a PARAMOUNT. It is the same as driving a 1963 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud to get replacement wiper blades at the auto parts store. Everybody will be helpful because they want to look it over and help you. Now if it were a Free Spirit, GMC Denali, or Varsity, they might not be so helpful. Some snooty bike shops might tell those such bike owners that those such bikes are better serviced by XZG bike shop across town, as they usher the bike and its owner towards the exit door.
Just asking if you have really given thought to having a corncob freewheel with 22 cog as your 1st gear(low gear)??
You better be a very accomplished rider who is currently physically fit, or you are going to struggle with having the combination of 42 front and 22 rear as your LOW GEAR which translates to a (52 GEAR......actually 51.545).
That isn't particularly good if you aren't in athletic physical condition (e.g. someone who can at least finish or be competitive in a sprint triathlon, where the bike portion is 22 miles)
If you aren't in good athletic physical condition, it is my opinion that you are making a serious mistake UNLESS everywhere that you ride is as level and flat as a billiard table. If not, you are going to have a helluva time on HILLS, where you wear yourself out. You'd be better served to go with something with 28 cog as the 1st gear cog, or at least a 26 cog as 1st gear cog.
Doing so, should still allow you to use the Campagnolo rear derailleur.
For example if you were to choose the 26 cog, with the 42front and 26rear, you'd have (44 GEAR....actually 43.615)
THAT 44 GEAR is actually probably the golden ticket if you don't have steep hills.
For example if you were to choose the 28 cog, with the 42front and 28rear, you'd have (41 GEAR.....actually 40.5 )
This 41 GEAR would allow you to navigate hills.
* the reason that I mentioned that the 26 cog (42F/26R) which gives 44 GEAR might be the golden ticket is because this assumes that you as a Paramount Owner are already a physically strong accomplished rider.
I do not mean any disrespect, and I am not telling you what to do. I am simply presenting you with some factual data which you might not have considered. I do understand that you might already know all of this, but for the benefit of possibly someone else seeing this thread, it may be helpful to those others that might not be so informed about this.
JOHN, this might not be relevant to you, but here from the 1971 Schwinn OWNERS Manual about the 1971 PARAMOUNT.
The 1971 Paramount has 24-21-18-16-14 on the freewheel with 52/49 up FRONT (gear range of 55GEAR to 100GEAR)
****John, your own proposed set up on your 1973 model of using a 22 cog is actually still superior to the factory 1971 model, since you have 52/42 up FRONT....so using the 22 cog as you have planned to gives you (gear range of 52GEAR to 100GEAR)
assuming that a 14 teeth cog is the smallest on the freewheel.
I don't have the original factory specs on your specific 1973 year model PARAMOUNT P-13-9.
If you know the teeth on the freewheel cogs and what the specific number of teeth on the two front chainrings, it is a very simple calculation.
FRONT SPROCKET divided by REAR SPROCKET = "result"
Take that "result" and MULTIPLY by WHEEL SIZE (use 27 for all 27" 630mm & 700C 622mm wheels)
Example: You have a bike with 700C wheels and you have 45 teeth on Front Chainring & 15 teeth on Rear Cog
45 divided by 15 = "result"
45 divided by 15 = 3
3 X 27 = 81 GEAR
Hey, just do this super simple math calculation for each gear combination to compile your own gear chart.
It will not make your PARAMOUNT any less of a bike if you choose to go with a superior Japanese made Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleur and a superior Japanese made SHIMANO freewheel or Japanese made Maeda Industries-SUNTOUR freewheel. Campy is cool and European is cool but the fact of the matter is that those two Japanese brands are at least twice as good. None of the European rear derailleurs come even close to the smooth reliable shifting of a SUNTOUR rear derailleur.
You also have the ability to go LARGER than a 28 teeth rear cog if you want to.
If you go with LARGER than a 28 teeth rear cog, PLEASE REMEMBER THAT YOU MUST USE A Suntour or Shimano rear derailleur so equipped to handle 32 or 34 teeth. Campy cannot reliably shift anything beyond 28. Neither can the other Europeans, such as Simplex & Huret. It will be a disappointing, losing proposition if you do try to use a European at 30 or beyond. Thousands of folks in the early seventies would routinely replace the CAMPAGNOLO rear derailleur on their new ten speed with a Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleur. Fifty plus years later, that same Campy rear derailleur is still a second class hunk of junk compared to a Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleur of that time period. Certainly that Campy rear derailleur is decent enough, okay to do the job, but comparatively speaking from an operational functionality and reliability perspective, the Maeda SUNTOUR unit is in fact that much better!
Now, if your aim is to simply sell (flip) the bike or create a museum piece, then perhaps install the CAMPY and the original seat, pedals, other oem parts, etc. If you are gonna ride the bike, you should definitely consider upgrading it such that it works better for you!
