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What the fork

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Kstone

Wore out three sets of tires already!
I'd start this off by saying I don't know what I'm doing, but you gentlemen already know this.

Long story short, this Colombia has logged 150 miles with me this month. That's crazy! Needless to say, she needed serviced and I was in over my head between the wiggles, the wobbles, and the bumps and thumps.

So I picked her up today from the local shop and they said I have an issue in my fork. Now, this fork and springer both confuse the hell out of me on this bike. The guy is insisting that I have the fork brazed because that's causing my wiggle up front. I rode her home two blocks, flipped her over and tightened everything as the tire did not seem well put on. That solved the wiggle that I can feel.

I happen to be going to see someone about welding her rack back together tomorrow. I have no problem having the fork issue solved too, but I'm also not sure what the issue is specifically.

from observing, I understand that tightening and loosening the tire onto the bike causes the inner metal of the fork to pull out or be held in. I can't seem to get either side of the fork to be out or in together in unison when tightening. So I imagine that is a problem? However, I welding these together the solution? Considering both sides move and compress, I'm assuming it's purposeful? Part of the springer mechanism? Unless they are supposed to be welded shut and in which case, both sides of my fork have broken loose? I have been hunting for a photo of another fork like this up close. So my question is if this is part of the bikes mechanics or if it's a break.

Pictures provided are of the inside metal being pulled or pushed in. Ones with the wrench on in the photos are when it is wrenched tight. As you can see, the gap closes and opens in various widths depending on the tightness of the tire to the fork.

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I feel like this isn't a problem, and is part of the design. But if this guy is recommending I braze them, don't do it, and damage the bike, I will forever be kicking myself.


Sorry if this is a stupid question.
 
Nice.. if. I'm seeing it correctly- the fork (tube) is connected to dropout Having a bayonet type fit. Whick is still connected but loosened where dropout swedgrs into fork.. I would say even with welding the design is under engineed for the type if trail busting you seem to enjoy. Simply replacing the fork would only transfer the pounding to other areas such as bearing cups or handlebar stem etc. Get a Schwinn and start over.
 
Many rear forks and dropouts are made the same way. The piece is slipped into the tubing and then the tubing is crimped around that part. Then it's either brazed or spot welded. If the brazing or weld breaks loose you're living on borrowed time and the issue will get worse. Your fork can easily be fixed but then you'll need to do the paint touch up. I wonder how far that dropout goes into the fork tube and if silver soldiering it would work or be an option. :confused:
 
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If you can wait til im well, ill be happy to look at this and the rack , and weld whats needed. Hopefully on my feet within the next few weeks.
Thank you greatly! I'll definitely be taking you up on that offer to give her a look-see. I hope you're healing up well!
 
It looks like the dropout wiggling loose from the blade tube, perhaps from the action of the springer and its bracket exerting a cyclical wiggling force on that drop out when you go over bumps. My suggestion is to pull it apart, clean and flux, and then braze it back together. I see some rust inside the joint, which will preclude getting good brazing to re-join it. If there is rust in there, you cannot fall for the "just flow some brazing wire into it" - it needs to be cleaned of the rust before the brazing will bond well.

While apart, the fork should be checked for straightness and the security of the other dropout/blade tube joint checked as well.

I would park the bike until it's fixed and ride a different one.
 
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