Wheel building class..How much would you pay?

[rusty.kirkpatrick]

Free on YouTube.

 

[Rivnut]

Only way to really learn is to do it yourself and learn from your mistakes.

 

[bikemonkey]

I have been building wheels in bicycle shops since 1975. There are several key elements which make a big difference in overcoming potential building problems, especially in dishing.

Dishing rear wheels is a PITA but can be reduced to a minor irritation if approached in the right fashion.

Assuming that you are dealing with a decent rim and the correct length of spokes, then the concept of centering the rear rim between the lock nuts (and not hub flanges) is the one thing to keep in mind throughout. Have I ever lost my concentration and moved the dish the wrong way...yes...it happens. Always put the wheel in the truing stand facing in same direction (I prefer the freewheel threads on the right when looking at it in the stand).

Here are some things you may find helpful.

The spoke threads, base of nipple heads, and rim spoke holes must all be properly lubricated before lacing.

Begin by tightening the nipples gradually and consistently by using the visible threads remaining as markers. When they disappear, count the number of nipple turns. Later, you may see the spoke end thought the end of the nipple slot and use that as a reference. The object is for all spokes nipples to be threaded the same distance - initially.

Detecting when the spokes begin to lose their initial slackness and start to move the rim is the point that makes all the difference in easier, accurate dishing, and removing/preventing rim "hop" (rim being out of round).

Spin the wheel and gun sight the rim in relation to the lock nuts and estimate where the rim will be properly dished. Using that reference, roughly true the wheel to that point using the least amount of tensioning as possible and then check the dish - the trueness does not need to be fine at this point as you are checking to see how close the dish is. It will be easy to make rim corrections at this point because of low spoke tension.

Once the wheel is close to being properly dished, then next adjust the hop without grossly affecting trueness. Then it is back and forth, keeping in mind that spokes on the right will be a lot tighter than the left side and the right side nipples will be harder to turn towards the end. As you are approaching optimum spoke tension, slightly over shooting the dish to the right (freewheel side) is a lot easier to correct than having it dished to far to the left.

Hope this helps!

 

[Sven]

I have been building wheels in bicycle shops since 1975. There are several key elements which make a big difference in overcoming potential building problems, especially in dishing.

Dishing rear wheels is a PITA but can be reduced to a minor irritation if approached in the right fashion.

Assuming that you are dealing with a decent rim and the correct length of spokes, then the concept of centering the rear rim between the lock nuts (and not hub flanges) is the one thing to keep in mind throughout. Have I ever lost my concentration and moved the dish the wrong way...yes...it happens. Always put the wheel in the truing stand facing in same direction (I prefer the freewheel threads on the right when looking at it in the stand).

Here are some things you may find helpful.

The spoke threads, base of nipple heads, and rim spoke holes must all be properly lubricated before lacing.

Begin by tightening the nipples gradually and consistently by using the visible threads remaining as markers. When they disappear, count the number of nipple turns. Later, you may see the spoke end thought the end of the nipple slot and use that as a reference. The object is for all spokes nipples to be threaded the same distance - initially.
When the spokes begin to loose their initial slackness and start to move the rim must be detected - this is the point that makes all the difference in easier, accurate dishing and removing/prevent rim "hop" (out of round).

Spin the wheel and gun sight the rim in relation to the lock nuts and estimate where the rim will be properly dished. Using that reference, roughly true the wheel to that point using the least amount of tensioning as possible and then check the dish - the trueness does not need to be fine at this point as you are checking to see how close the dish is. It will be easy to make rim corrections at this point because of low spoke tension.

Once the wheel is close to being properly dished, then gradually adjust the hop without grossly affecting trueness. Then it is back and forth, keeping in mind that spokes on the right will be a lot tighter than the left side and the right side nipples will be harder to turn towards the end. As you are approaching optimum spoke tension, slightly over shooting the dish to the right (freewheel side) is a lot easier to correct than having it dished to far to the left.

Hope this helps!

Thanks a million...
I am using an old Schwinn Approved low flange hub, new spokes, nipples and rim (700c aluminum)
I got the rear wheel dished and mostly laterally trued . As I spin the wheel , there is a small area with a slight shift to the left ( non drive side) as well as a hop in the same location.
I hate hops...only in beer do I like hops.
Radially truing to me at times is like chasing a ghost.

 

[vincev]

Call me lazy.Unless you want to do wheels for "fun" I would just get good wheels.lol....I have done wheels in the past and it can become frustrating if you dont know what your doing. Truing wheels is very easy.

 

[spoker]

lacing is a piece of cake,if need be after lacing take it to a shop for truing

 

[MotoMagz]

More soothing video

 

[Sven]

I've done this Bikeman4U method with good results for non dish wheels. Starting at the valve hole tighten the first a half a turn, go to the third one after that and turn a half turn. Continue until all the spokes are tighten

 

[Sven]

I like this video. The first 9 spokes, flip over the next nine. Rotate the hub , then over, over under and skip.

This man from Australia laces up his wheel completely one one side and then flips it over to do the other 18 spokes. Ive tried thus way, its okay. You are bending the heck out of the spokes, getting it through the previous pattern

 

[1817cent]

I have built wheels over the years by using You Tube and the wheel building book. My most recent challenge was building a prewar high low hub on a Deluxe Schwinn where 2 spokes use the same hole. That was a challenge but a couple of people here on the Cabe told me how to do it and it worked. I would save your money and invest in a decent stand and tools AND use the resources on this site....