I spoke with Fred White this evening about some of his tech tips that he has done,like what he used to find the right size end spacer for the crankshaft. The tool "Flush Pin Gage" cost is about $175.00 for this tool that you'll use maybe once or twice. What Fred used you probably already have. Let me know if you would like this info. Ray
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Whizzer motor technical stuff
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Fred White Tech Tip
First of all, you check the parts catalog and find out how many spacer thickness's are available and you will discover that there are at least five. Ther are : (A) .078 (B) .087 (C) .096 (D) .105 and (E) .114 inch. It is not necessary to buy the whole set. In fact, the one you removed from your engine before overhaul might still be unstable. So, before you try to find someone with a gage and travel therefore a measurement, here is the method that I have found to solve the problem.
Simply find a roll of solder that 1/8" in diameter (.128") and clip two short pieces about 1/4" long. Dab a little grease on them and place them in the cover plate spacer groove where your original spacer holds them in place. Carefully install the cover plate on the crank case using a new gasket under it and snug up each of the cover plate screws. Tap the cover plate gently with a mallet or wood block around the bearing area to seat the mating surfaces near the solder spaces.
Remove the cover plate and measure each spacer across its flattened surface and record this figure. Now subtract the allowable tolerance (.010 to .012). This is the thickness of the spacer that you need to use.
An example: The new solder measures .125
After removal, it measures .107
Subtract the factory tolerance .011
The required space thickness = .096
Order the "C" spacer of 96 thousandths from any Whizzer dealer and you are ready to button up your engine.
NOTE: Don't forget to check the thickness of your old spacer before you hang it on a nail and order a new one.
Hope this will help some of you.
First of all, you check the parts catalog and find out how many spacer thickness's are available and you will discover that there are at least five. Ther are : (A) .078 (B) .087 (C) .096 (D) .105 and (E) .114 inch. It is not necessary to buy the whole set. In fact, the one you removed from your engine before overhaul might still be unstable. So, before you try to find someone with a gage and travel therefore a measurement, here is the method that I have found to solve the problem.
Simply find a roll of solder that 1/8" in diameter (.128") and clip two short pieces about 1/4" long. Dab a little grease on them and place them in the cover plate spacer groove where your original spacer holds them in place. Carefully install the cover plate on the crank case using a new gasket under it and snug up each of the cover plate screws. Tap the cover plate gently with a mallet or wood block around the bearing area to seat the mating surfaces near the solder spaces.
Remove the cover plate and measure each spacer across its flattened surface and record this figure. Now subtract the allowable tolerance (.010 to .012). This is the thickness of the spacer that you need to use.
An example: The new solder measures .125
After removal, it measures .107
Subtract the factory tolerance .011
The required space thickness = .096
Order the "C" spacer of 96 thousandths from any Whizzer dealer and you are ready to button up your engine.
NOTE: Don't forget to check the thickness of your old spacer before you hang it on a nail and order a new one.
Hope this will help some of you.
redline1968
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
great advise i will use it. 
great advise i will use it.
Hey redline1968, let me know if it's D .105.
I've done some to my little project, I'm trying to finish 2 other projects, almost there. ha that's what i said the last time.
Ray
redline1968
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
ill check it out. havent touched it for a while but ill get my ---- together and do it. mark
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