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Whizzer wheel lacing

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whizzerbug

Finally riding a big boys bike
i need a sportsman rear wheel w/drum brake laced up i have the 120ga spokes anybody know of a reliable reasonable priced person that has experienced working on whizzer wheels that thay can recommend, hear is pic of the wheel w/9 spokes but it got me stumped . p/s if anyone has a rear wheel that wants to sell let me know thanks al

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sunday bump
It's just a spoked bicycle wheel, it's not that difficult. There's nothing different "in spoking" a wheel for a Whizzer, or any other .080/.105/.120 GA spoked wheel. You have lots of printed wheel building instructions that you could follow for reference. Building a "large flange" hub is much easier because the hub spoke holes a further apart, making dropping the first spoke into the lower flange "visually easier".

In your posted photo, first make certain you have the nine spokes in the correct offset hole side of the rim. The very next step is that you need to "orientate the spoking pattern to the location of the valve hole in the rim. You need end up with the spokes being parallel to the air valve, NOT crossing over the valve making it difficult to inflate. Stick a Bic Pen into the rim valve hole for your quick visual reference. Rotate the hub either clockwise, or counterclockwise. In one direction, the air valve (Bic Pen) will be covered by a spoke. Turing it in the opposite direction and you will see the spoke is parallel to the air valve.

OK, so far, we are one quarter done. Insert nine more spokes "UP" into the remaining open spoke holes in the upper hub flange. DO NOT change the air valve to spoke hub orientation we did in step one. Depending on your spoke length, hub size, and rim spoke diameter you most likely will be going to do a "cross four" pattern. Rotate the spokes so that you have one spoke crossing over four of your already installed spokes. My advice is to find the spoke that will be parallel to your valve hole spoke. Because of the right/left rim hole offset there will be the "valve hole" AND one "spoke hole" then your new spoke hole. Again, it's correct when you have the two spokes not crossing over the air valve.

My advice is to not install the remaining eight spokes into the rim because it's only going to make your life more difficult when we get to step number three by installing the spokes into the other side of the hub. The only important thing in step number two was the positioning of that first spoke, because it sets the pattern for the remaining spokes. The spoke pattern will repeat every four spokes all the way around the rim.

Show me some better photos of your progress on step one and step two, and I will walk you through the rest of the steps on side two. Tie a colored string or a rubber band on the spoke on each side of the valve hole. We will use these are references in my instructions.

John
 
It's just a spoked bicycle wheel, it's not that difficult. There's nothing different "in spoking" a wheel for a Whizzer, or any other .080/.105/.120 GA spoked wheel. You have lots of printed wheel building instructions that you could follow for reference. Building a "large flange" hub is much easier because the hub spoke holes a further apart, making dropping the first spoke into the lower flange "visually easier".

In your posted photo, first make certain you have the nine spokes in the correct offset hole side of the rim. The very next step is that you need to "orientate the spoking pattern to the location of the valve hole in the rim. You need end up with the spokes being parallel to the air valve, NOT crossing over the valve making it difficult to inflate. Stick a Bic Pen into the rim valve hole for your quick visual reference. Rotate the hub either clockwise, or counterclockwise. In one direction, the air valve (Bic Pen) will be covered by a spoke. Turing it in the opposite direction and you will see the spoke is parallel to the air valve.

OK, so far, we are one quarter done. Insert nine more spokes "UP" into the remaining open spoke holes in the upper hub flange. DO NOT change the air valve to spoke hub orientation we did in step one. Depending on your spoke length, hub size, and rim spoke diameter you most likely will be going to do a "cross four" pattern. Rotate the spokes so that you have one spoke crossing over four of your already installed spokes. My advice is to find the spoke that will be parallel to your valve hole spoke. Because of the right/left rim hole offset there will be the "valve hole" AND one "spoke hole" then your new spoke hole. Again, it's correct when you have the two spokes not crossing over the air valve.

My advice is to not install the remaining eight spokes into the rim because it's only going to make your life more difficult when we get to step number three by installing the spokes into the other side of the hub. The only important thing in step number two was the positioning of that first spoke, because it sets the pattern for the remaining spokes. The spoke pattern will repeat every four spokes all the way around the rim.

Show me some better photos of your progress on step one and step two, and I will walk you through the rest of the steps on side two. Tie a colored string or a rubber band on the spoke on each side of the valve hole. We will use these are references in my instructions.

John
thank you i will give it another try...al
 
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