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Will Tange 26” Fork work for Prewar Schwinn Klunker?

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dave429

I live for the CABE
Looking to make a klunker from a prewar schwinn frame and wondering if these forks would work. They are newly made and come in two steer tube lengths. If they work what steer tube length would work best? Im think the smaller one but looking for your expertise. Thanks!

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Yo! Thanks for the heads up on these forks! I immediately ordered one... I ordered the short one for post war frames. I have a few SE Racing Landing Gear forks on builds and those fit post war without cutting, and they are apparently 10 mm shorter than these Tange. Pre war frames have shorter headtube, so maybe you"ll have to cut a little bit off if you get the 180... just my take...
 
Yo! Thanks for the heads up on these forks! I immediately ordered one... I ordered the short one for post war frames. I have a few SE Racing Landing Gear forks on builds and those fit post war without cutting, and they are apparently 10 mm shorter than these Tange. Pre war frames have shorter headtube, so maybe you"ll have to cut a little bit off if you get the 180... just my take...
So your saying the shorter one should be good? I think the 180 mm is ~7” or so. The longer one seems so long. Thanks for the verification. Any idea what headset you will use?
 
Remember to add any spacer you use in the headset, like a brake cable thingy to your measurement. I usually use stock Schwinn headsets and also have had good luck with the aluminum one that porkchop sells as well. I'm excited for this fork, original Schwinn tubulars are hard to get, as are OG Tange, so we're basically left with Landing Gear. I have three Genuine Bicycle Products forks, but I think he is out of stock at the moment, those you definitely have to cut.
 
So just to verify 5 3/8" post war headtube is 136.5 mm and if you use the Neco alloy headset that Porkchop sells, and I have a few times, that is 41 mm leaving you with 177.5 mm and the Tange fork is 180 mm, so it will fit with a small cut or a small spacer or it will "just button up." The Tange MX 320 headset is 40mm height. I dont know what the Schwinn headset stack height is, but it is great quality and you can get a nice clean one quite easily. Your prewar is 5" headtube so that is even more in the clear. Does my math line up?
 
So just to verify 5 3/8" post war headtube is 136.5 mm and if you use the Neco alloy headset that Porkchop sells, and I have a few times, that is 41 mm leaving you with 177.5 mm and the Tange fork is 180 mm, so it will fit with a small cut or a small spacer or it will "just button up." The Tange MX 320 headset is 40mm height. I dont know what the Schwinn headset stack height is, but it is great quality and you can get a nice clean one quite easily. Your prewar is 5" headtube so that is even more in the clear. Does my math line up?
Sounds right to me. I just measured a few post war forks I have and they have a 7” steer tube. I think the 250mm steer tube is almost 10” long and would be way to long. I’m going to order a 180mm fork. Worst case scenario I will be able to sell in in the future for what I paid for it.
Thanks for the info and advice!
 
Looking to make a klunker from a prewar schwinn frame and wondering if these forks would work. They are newly made and come in two steer tube lengths. If they work what steer tube length would work best? Im think the smaller one but looking for your expertise. Thanks!

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Just do as they mention in the ad....................measure your bikes head tube and head set.

Then if you do need to cut it, put the adjusting nut on the fork as a guide for a straight cut. Then use the adjusting nut to clean up any burs on the cut threads after you are done! Use a new hack saw blade to cut the tube, use a rattail file to clean up any burs on the inside of the tube, and you should be all good!
 
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Just do as they mention in the ad....................measure your bikes head tube and head set.

Then if you do need to cut it, put the adjusting nut on the fork as a guide for a straight cut. Then use the adjusting nut to clean up any burs on the cut threads after you are done! Use a new hack saw blade to cut the tube, use a rattail file to clean up any burs on the inside of the tube, and you should be all good!
Thanks for the info! Greatly appreciated!
 
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