You always remember your first time... 1916 Iver Roadster

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dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
Hello All-

I'm a new member embarking on my first project. I've posted a little more about myself and how I got here in the Antique Pre 1933 section under the post "New Member...Old Bike". I've had this project waiting in the wings for a while and once I stumbled upon The CABE I was inspired! Some really, really impressive work out there folks.

So here's what I'm working with:

1916 Iver Truss Frame Roadster in as found condition

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First step was to get out the compressor and blow off decades worth of dust... Serious dust!

1090998


Then I did some Lexol on the seat and did an initial WD-40 and steel wool wipe down

Here are some before and afters:

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Then I hit all the moving bits, bolts and nuts with Blaster and will do this a time or two again before I start wrenching on anything.... Any pointers on how to loosen rusted parts(what to or not to do) before I start greatly appreciated.

I'm surprised at how good the paint looks after just a few mins of light scrubbing. My next steps will be to start breaking the bike down so I can attack the rust and get everything re-lubed and moving again. I plan on taking off the non original parts which seem to be basket, chain guard and fenders... fenders are pretty beat up anyway. Anyone know anything about the chain guard?

I also know I will be needing some parts as I go along. So far I know I need a left crank arm (not sure if its a 6.5" or a 7" need to measure) Also missing a left pedal so will be looking for one or a pair.

Still undecided on the wheels whether I'm going to restore for show, try to restore to ride or buy a replacement set and leave originals as is... but I guess thats a post for another time.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts, tips or parts. More to come!

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Balloonoob

I live for the CABE
Jan 24, 2019
1,067
35
Longmont Colorado
That's a pretty nice first old bike! . :tongueout: i believe the chain guard was used on late 30s rollfast / hawthorne bikes. Maybe others as well but there are definitely folks looking for them. Fenders might be original and salvageable too but I'm no expert ;someone here will likely know. I would spray penetrating oil on every nut before taking a wrench to it. You may need someone who knows what they are doing to service and maybe straighten (true) the wheels unless you have experience with this. Decals are in great shape. Paint too. Congrats! Btw - 26 or 28 inch wheels?
 

dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
Thanks! I'm excited about it. I'm going to set aside the parts as the come off and see what I'm working with. Will probably pass on non original parts to those that need them. The fenders could be saved they're not really that bad I'm just not skilled in shaping metal... As for the wheels they are wood 28's. They aren't actually that bad it's just the spokes I'm worried about. I will dive into that once I can get them free! Tomorrow more penetrating oil
 

DonChristie

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Nov 4, 2009
3,624
Waxhaw, N. Carolina
www.facebook.com
Holy cow! What a beauty! You seem to be going about the correct way! Chainguard is an aftermarket piece and so is the basket. Wheels are always an issue with these old 28” bikes. Using the wood wheels (assuming they are and original) is kind of sketchy! The seams in the wood seperate over time. Inspect them closely. There are many ways to overcome this! New wood hoops or using metal clad hoops is about your best coarse. Finding the crank arm and pedal will be difficult! She needs to be on the road again! This is part of the fun! Good luck!
 

dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
Hey Don!
Yeah she's a beauty alright. The wheels are painted black with no sign of pinstripes. Judging from the "alligator" checking of the paint I would guess they are original. Rear coaster is a Morrow haven't been able to get the front hub clean enough to identify. Bike was a wall hanger at an old TGI Fridays so assumably they tossed left crank so it would sit against the wall and also drove some screws into the wheels...nice. Guess that adds to the sketch factor. Hmm... set them aside as is or do I salvage the hubs and lace them to new wood? Decisions, decisions....
 

Balloonoob

I live for the CABE
Jan 24, 2019
1,067
35
Longmont Colorado
Hey Don!
Yeah she's a beauty alright. The wheels are painted black with no sign of pinstripes. Judging from the "alligator" checking of the paint I would guess they are original. Rear coaster is a Morrow haven't been able to get the front hub clean enough to identify. Bike was a wall hanger at an old TGI Fridays so assumably they tossed left crank so it would sit against the wall and also drove some screws into the wheels...nice. Guess that adds to the sketch factor. Hmm... set them aside as is or do I salvage the hubs and lace them to new wood? Decisions, decisions....
That bike came off a wall at tgi Friday's? o_O that is ridiculous. Did you buy it from the restaurant owner or something? That bike is phenomenal deserves more than that. Glad it was saved and good luck getting it back together.
 

dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
Yeah about five years they were auctioning off all the "flair" on the walls of a location that had been around for years and my old man bought it along with a bunch of other great stuff... Its been sitting in our office ever since. I knew at some point I would get around to giving it some love so here I am. The site has already been immensely helpful. Such an amazing archive
 

DonChristie

Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Nov 4, 2009
3,624
Waxhaw, N. Carolina
www.facebook.com
You can date the Morrow hub by the numbers stamped on it. If the wheels are original, that would date the bike. The hub stamp is alpha-numeric, like d34 or something like that. Search the cabe for the coding, it is listed here several times!
 
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dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
Looks like they are original wheels. The morrow alpha numeric codes seem to have started with 'A' in 1931. Bike serial dates to 1916 and the IJ catalog from 1916 lists morrow hub under regular equipment for the truss roadster. Haven't been able to find a stamp aside from morrow on brake arm. Anyone know if there are other stamps on morrow hubs from the teens?
 
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Balloonoob

I live for the CABE
Jan 24, 2019
1,067
35
Longmont Colorado
Looks like they are original wheels. The morrow alpha numeric codes seem to have started with 'A' in 1931. Bike serial dates to 1916 and the IJ catalog from 1916 lists morrow hub under regular equipment for the truss roadster. Haven't been able to find a stamp aside from morrow on brake arm. Anyone know if there are other stamps on morrow hubs from the teens?
I was shared this link on another thread just today .:) It's a page from the website @Freqman1 created and maintains. https://vintageamericanbicycles.com/index.php/hub-dating/
 

piercer_99

I live for the CABE
Dec 27, 2015
1,772
59
Sanger, TX
my 1918 Pierce and 1929 and 1930 Westfield bicycles both have stock Morrow hubs, without any script on the hub shell or date codes.

I run modern rims on my bikes, with vintage hubs. It makes tire shopping easier as well as repair. I would much rather replace an eight dollar tube than a 150 dollar single tube tire.


The critter that removed the crank arm and tossed it, then screwed through the wheel set, needs to be horse whipped. just my humble opinion on that mortal sin.
 

dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
my 1918 Pierce and 1929 and 1930 Westfield bicycles both have stock Morrow hubs, without any script on the hub shell or date codes.

I run modern rims on my bikes, with vintage hubs. It makes tire shopping easier as well as repair. I would much rather replace an eight dollar tube than a 150 dollar single tube tire.


The critter that removed the crank arm and tossed it, then screwed through the wheel set, needs to be horse whipped. just my humble opinion on that mortal sin.
I'd wager an opinion shared by many around here! Bike was probably picked roughly 35 years ago given they heyday of Fridays..whomever did at least had a decent eye! Makes sense earlier versions had no other markings. Seems to point to my wheels being original to the bike
 

olderthandirt

Finally riding a big boys bike
Jun 15, 2012
497
pilot mt n.c.
i am up to my neck in ivers at the moment ,there nice bikes and i really like them ! you can tell they were built by a gun company by the quality of the fasteners ,they used fine thread and very good quality fasteners thru out the bike !
 

dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
i am up to my neck in ivers at the moment ,there nice bikes and i really like them ! you can tell they were built by a gun company by the quality of the fasteners ,they used fine thread and very good quality fasteners thru out the bike !
Yeah they seem "bullet proof" Let me know if you have an extra left crank arm or any early waffle tread pedals falling out of that pile of Ivers!
 

Duchess

Wore out three sets of tires already!
Feb 14, 2014
584
Beverly, MA
Look like single tube rims. Finding something that doesn't look too modern and is an appropriate width will be expensive. It would be a lot easier to re-lace the hubs to modern rims. You can get wood clinchers if you want them. It's what I did with my 1912, though I kept the original wheels intact and got all new everything except for the front hub, which is a 1930s(?) ND Model W I got off ebay 2/$25. Used that because the front hubs are 90mm (or at least the Special Racers are) instead of the long-standard 100mm, so I recommend using the originals if you can.
 

dasberger

Look Ma, No Hands!
Nov 1, 2019
49
43
ATL
Look like single tube rims. Finding something that doesn't look too modern and is an appropriate width will be expensive. It would be a lot easier to re-lace the hubs to modern rims. You can get wood clinchers if you want them. It's what I did with my 1912, though I kept the original wheels intact and got all new everything except for the front hub, which is a 1930s(?) ND Model W I got off ebay 2/$25. Used that because the front hubs are 90mm (or at least the Special Racers are) instead of the long-standard 100mm, so I recommend using the originals if you can.

I'm torn between keeping rims as is for display or using the hubs. I'm thinking the Stutzman wood/metal clinchers and find another set of hubs probably my best bet as I'm a pretty big guy and have bent my fair share of rims over the years....

Got any pics of yours with the wood clinchers? Would love to see how they came out
 
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