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You always remember your first time... 1916 Iver Roadster

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Looks like they are original wheels. The morrow alpha numeric codes seem to have started with 'A' in 1931. Bike serial dates to 1916 and the IJ catalog from 1916 lists morrow hub under regular equipment for the truss roadster. Haven't been able to find a stamp aside from morrow on brake arm. Anyone know if there are other stamps on morrow hubs from the teens?
 
Looks like they are original wheels. The morrow alpha numeric codes seem to have started with 'A' in 1931. Bike serial dates to 1916 and the IJ catalog from 1916 lists morrow hub under regular equipment for the truss roadster. Haven't been able to find a stamp aside from morrow on brake arm. Anyone know if there are other stamps on morrow hubs from the teens?
I was shared this link on another thread just today .:) It's a page from the website @Freqman1 created and maintains. https://vintageamericanbicycles.com/index.php/hub-dating/
 
my 1918 Pierce and 1929 and 1930 Westfield bicycles both have stock Morrow hubs, without any script on the hub shell or date codes.

I run modern rims on my bikes, with vintage hubs. It makes tire shopping easier as well as repair. I would much rather replace an eight dollar tube than a 150 dollar single tube tire.


The critter that removed the crank arm and tossed it, then screwed through the wheel set, needs to be horse whipped. just my humble opinion on that mortal sin.
 
my 1918 Pierce and 1929 and 1930 Westfield bicycles both have stock Morrow hubs, without any script on the hub shell or date codes.

I run modern rims on my bikes, with vintage hubs. It makes tire shopping easier as well as repair. I would much rather replace an eight dollar tube than a 150 dollar single tube tire.


The critter that removed the crank arm and tossed it, then screwed through the wheel set, needs to be horse whipped. just my humble opinion on that mortal sin.

I'd wager an opinion shared by many around here! Bike was probably picked roughly 35 years ago given they heyday of Fridays..whomever did at least had a decent eye! Makes sense earlier versions had no other markings. Seems to point to my wheels being original to the bike
 
i am up to my neck in ivers at the moment ,there nice bikes and i really like them ! you can tell they were built by a gun company by the quality of the fasteners ,they used fine thread and very good quality fasteners thru out the bike !

Yeah they seem "bullet proof" Let me know if you have an extra left crank arm or any early waffle tread pedals falling out of that pile of Ivers!
 
Look like single tube rims. Finding something that doesn't look too modern and is an appropriate width will be expensive. It would be a lot easier to re-lace the hubs to modern rims. You can get wood clinchers if you want them. It's what I did with my 1912, though I kept the original wheels intact and got all new everything except for the front hub, which is a 1930s(?) ND Model W I got off ebay 2/$25. Used that because the front hubs are 90mm (or at least the Special Racers are) instead of the long-standard 100mm, so I recommend using the originals if you can.
 
Look like single tube rims. Finding something that doesn't look too modern and is an appropriate width will be expensive. It would be a lot easier to re-lace the hubs to modern rims. You can get wood clinchers if you want them. It's what I did with my 1912, though I kept the original wheels intact and got all new everything except for the front hub, which is a 1930s(?) ND Model W I got off ebay 2/$25. Used that because the front hubs are 90mm (or at least the Special Racers are) instead of the long-standard 100mm, so I recommend using the originals if you can.


I'm torn between keeping rims as is for display or using the hubs. I'm thinking the Stutzman wood/metal clinchers and find another set of hubs probably my best bet as I'm a pretty big guy and have bent my fair share of rims over the years....

Got any pics of yours with the wood clinchers? Would love to see how they came out
 
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