# 72 Twinn Resto Advice Needed



## spylab (Jan 26, 2012)

Good to see a little corner for the Schwinn guys, since Schwinn wiped out their own forums some time ago.


I am getting near the home stretch of a fun restoration on a 72 Twinn I dug up a couple years ago. In fact, just got a mess of parts back from chrome plating yesterday:







ANYWAYS, I have a few last odds and ends to tie up, and need help with resources on a couple things. Hoping y'all have some ideas:

1. S-7 wheels and hubs are freshly chromed; was not worth the expense to to all the spokes and nipples. The spokes are heavy duty and nipples equally as burly, but I don't know the exact gauge to buy replacements. Any help on the spoke thickness, or what exact style of nipple is used? I handed everything over to my friend to is a top notch wheel builder, and even he seemed kind of perplexed (saying he hasn't seen a spoke that thick in decades).


2. The bike had a taillight and generator that will be re-used. The plastic silver reflector that sits inside the light housing is cracked, and I would love a resource to acquire a new/NOS/used-but-nice one without having to buy the entire assembly. It is 2" in diameter, shown below to reference the taillight style:






3. Any leads, resources or specific search terms to locate two pairs of NOS or otherwise flawless original pedals?







4. Also looking for a new set of brake pads; same style as the OEM ones, but I figure all the NOS ones are hard as a rock from age. Anyone making a decent repro out there or resources otherwise? Want to keep with the red/salmon colored pads for originality...







Hopefully in return I can help contribute back to the community, but for now I would be most appreciative of any help!

Process pics to follow!


Mike


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## PCHiggin (Jan 27, 2012)

*Spokes...*

S7s on the Twinn use .105 gauge spokes


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## spylab (Jan 27, 2012)

Thank you!


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## ducnut (Jan 27, 2012)

WOW! That's going to be a really nice ride.

1. I don't know what to tell you on the spokes. They measure 2.9mm and do seem to be unusual, by today's bicycle standards. I would've thought Wheelsmith would've had them, but, don't. Buchanan's Spoke & Wheel will make them, but, it's going to cost a bit. You may ask Peter White what he thinks, as modern materials are bit more advanced, compared to '72. Lastly, you can use a machine buffer and polish the originals yourself. However, the luster won't last.

2. The lense and reflector are 1-piece. I have 2 of them, but, are mounted on bikes. They do regularly come up on eBay and I do see NOS sets come up, too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sch...461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a18d2c46d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SCH...002?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c629555ba
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-SCH...774?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c1bda15e
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Vintag...931?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab34d69d3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SCH...278?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab33ef7f6
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schwinn-App...061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6f856805
There's more.

3. Again, you're probably going to have troll eBay. Set up an "advanced search" using the term "Schwinn pedals". Their system will automatically e-mail you, daily, of new listings. That style of pedal doesn't seem to be as common as the Deluxe Twinn pedals. You could go with a Deluxe knockoff or reproduction, just to get you on the road. Of course, NOS Deluxe pedals are availabe, too. The Deluxe Twinn takes the non-reflector "Bow" pedal. The ones with reflectors are for the Suburban, and such. Also, be sure the pedals you're looking at have the "Schwinn" stamp on the ends, if you want correct pedals.

4. NOS Weinmann pads regularly are on eBay. But, as you mentioned, they're probably dry. Cane Creek offers a nice, modern pad (#76G), under QBP part #BR1131. KoolStop offers the Continental in salmon and gray. Both are available through any shop or online.

Reference catalogs are here.

Lastly, I do have a 100% original '69 Deluxe Twinn to draw off.


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## greenephantom (Jan 27, 2012)

With the pedals, heck, I'd just back-date them a few years and go with bow pedals.  And the bow pedals have the advantage of being a better built pedal and they have chrome.  Just my opinion.

Cheers, Geoff


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## spylab (Jan 27, 2012)

You guys are awesome. Seriously, I am so appreciative of the response.


I am having a tough time with the spokes, and am looking into moped resources for the 12ga spokes. I guess if worse comes to worse I can have the spokes and nipples plated, but am kind of fearing the bill on that one.

The bow pedals are really sharp, and I might go that route for a cleaner finish overall. Appreciate the insight that they are better built, too.


Have a bid in on a lamp/generator assembly, so hopefully that pans out well.


Thank you again; can't wait to share some process pics of this build later this evening.
Mike


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## ohdeebee (Jan 27, 2012)

What length spokes do you need.


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## ducnut (Jan 27, 2012)

spylab said:


> Thank you again; can't wait to share some process pics of this build later this evening.




Looking forward to the pics.


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## PCHiggin (Jan 27, 2012)

*Spokes*



spylab said:


> You guys are awesome. Seriously, I am so appreciative of the response.
> 
> 
> I am having a tough time with the spokes, and am looking into moped resources for the 12ga spokes. I guess if worse comes to worse I can have the spokes and nipples plated, but am kind of fearing the bill on that one.
> ...




I don't understand,My local bike shop gets them anytime. 12 gauge spokes are .120 gauge and I think too wide for you.


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## spylab (Jan 27, 2012)

I know I shouldn't trust online resources completely, but it looks like 12 gauge spokes are .104" diameter, which is pretty much exactly what I need.

Waiting to hear back from my bike guy to see if he can source them and the nipples...


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## spylab (Jan 27, 2012)

ohdeebee said:


> What length spokes do you need.




Will let you know if my mechanic can't find them wholesale. He took the lot of 'em with him, and I didn't get a measurement first.


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## ducnut (Jan 27, 2012)

spylab said:


> I know I shouldn't trust online resources completely, but it looks like 12 gauge spokes are .104" diameter, which is pretty much exactly what I need.




That's pretty close (~.1045 to .105, depending on which spoke) to what mine are, too.


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## Hb Twinn (Jan 27, 2012)

*saw the spokes you need on ebay*

There is a posting on ebay for the .105 spokes that you need for the tandem. Nipples are included, but the seller is very proud of their parts.
 I have found that used spokes clean up very well if they aren't to badly corroded and the nipples should polish out nicely as well. I have done several wheels and many people think they are NOS. Schwinn stuff is incredibly well built and finished. Try looking in sunbelt areas that don't have the rough winters and you should find wheels that will work. Here at the beach, we have salt air that does a number on chrome and makes polishing a regular chore.
I have the bow pedals on my early Deluxe Twinn and they look really good, it does help that they are tough too!
Your  bike looks like it will be spectacular, can't wait to see the pictures of the finished project.


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## spylab (Jan 27, 2012)

I am a man of my word, so following is an abridged travel through this resto-mod project.

The goal here was not to restore the bike back to 100% original condition regarding paint color, metal finishes, etc.
Instead, I want to make this the greatest example of a Twinn I can dream up, utilizing 100% original metal components (spokes, chains, and tires will be the only aftermarket bits) and pushing for the cleanest and most detail-driven final bike possible.

I know that the bike isn't all that rare or valuable, but this bike has a special place with my girlfriend and I, so heart wins out over logic here.

ON TO THE PHOTOS:

As purchased from a random warehouse in Northeast NJ.





Basic idea of its condition. Frame and metal were in excellent structural shape; just some mild surface corrosion and grime from the past 40 years.




Freshly beadblasted.




Mercy day, Schwinn brazing is a thing of beauty.




BAM! Fresh paint! Volvo Orange Flame Metallic




Traditional waterslide decals leave a visible 'halo' where the clear decal edges are. Here's where I employed my graphic design background and position as art director at a sign company to my advantage. Prior to sandblasting I recorded a detailed survey of graphic sizes and positions, and scanned the chain guard (had the fork teardrops and top tube graphics on file from a previous resto). I carefully and precisely re-drew the entire graphic suite in Adobe Illustrator, and cut-plotted stencils at work with paint mask vinyl. The stencils were cut to allow perfect alignment with the original graphic positions.




Stencil applied to the frame, with the entire frame masked off except the Schwinn script (the seat tube decal was a NOS waterslide due to its complexity)




Fresh paint laid down for the graphics.


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## spylab (Jan 27, 2012)

After curing, the stencil vinyl was carefully removed, revealing a perfect duplicate of the original graphics without the downside of the waterslides or expense of silkscreen.




Finished frame.




Top tube graphic.




Fork teardrop.




Chain guard.




This was a couple nights ago. After saving up and having the parents chip in as a Christmas gift, essentially every metal bit on the bike comes back from chrome plating. I was like a kid again unwrapping all this stuff.




My coffee table as it currently sits. Not shown are the wheels, basket, crank arms, or kickstand. After much deliberation, I decided not to plate or utilize the headlight in the final build. It didn't aesthetically flow with the rest of the bike, and was running off the rear generator via a mile of cable twisted around the frame. I couldn't come up with a good way to run this cable through the frame, so I ditched it. The original black seat pans were plated, and the OEM rubber/vinyl Mesinger covers will be tossed in favor of custom stitched black and white leather seats with the traditional Schwinn teardrop white in the front and 'S' silkscreened into the seat.







Left to do:

• Acquire spokes & nipples; get wheels laced.
• Find new inner reflector for taillight (currently winning eBay auction for one)
• Acquire two matching pairs of mint condition NOS pedals
• Assemble seat pans and bring to uphosltery shop with original padding and covers for custom work
• Acquire two good quality chrome chains, new brake cable, cable housing, and NOS/replica brake pads.
• Set up time lapse camera, assemble this beast and post to YouTube!


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## ducnut (Jan 28, 2012)

I wish I had you and your signshop abilities operating, here.

Harris has Jagwire cables.  Their "gray" color is somewhat close to Schwinn's original cable color. The smooth outer housing looks better than the OEM cables, IMHO. If you're going with whitewall tires, white housing might looking better against that rocking paint job. GORE, also, offer tandem cables, though I've never used that brand.

You may check with Co-Motion for chain advice. They build some really high-end tandems.

I drilled the seatstay and headtube on my GF's Suburban, to run the generator wiring through. It definitely looks better than wrapping it around random protrusions, on the bike. Our tandem has a gen-set, too. I'm not going to restore it, so it'll have to keep it's tackiness. Oh yeah. She likes the look of a lightset (she likes baskets, too), for its vintage vibe. Like you, I think they ruin the aesthetic of a clean looking bike.


You've done a great job, so far.


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## spylab (Jan 28, 2012)

Thanks for the advice.

I am going with a black cable housing, which will tie in better with the seats and tires than OEM grey would. It's a coaster bike, so all I have to worry about is 18" of cable. No biggie there!

I bought a set of legit Schwinn Westwind whitewall tires which ought to be gorgeous against the paint and chrome.

The basket had to stay at the lady's request, but the headlight was too much of a PITA with the frame design and trying to snake the cables through the tubing.

Will keep this thread up to date as I put her back together


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## ducnut (Jan 28, 2012)

spylab said:


> It's a coaster bike, so all I have to worry about is 18" of cable. No biggie there!




Doh! Forgot it wasn't the Deluxe.


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## PCHiggin (Jan 28, 2012)

*I Goofed....*



spylab said:


> I know I shouldn't trust online resources completely, but it looks like 12 gauge spokes are .104" diameter, which is pretty much exactly what I need.
> 
> Waiting to hear back from my bike guy to see if he can source them and the nipples...




You're correct on the dia. of the spokes


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## Beachside (Jan 28, 2012)

Wow, can't wait to see the final pics. My wife and I just got back from a BBQ and we rode our 74 Twinn Deluxe-5 miles round trip. It's such a sweet bike to ride!


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## PCHiggin (Jan 29, 2012)

*Beautiful Paint!!*

Thats turning out better than new. We're missing our Deluxe Twinn right now,just a bit too cold in Michigan,we're hot weather riders.


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## spylab (Feb 8, 2012)

UPDATE!








I was able to find a set of spokes and nipples on eBay, and even though they were all 10-5/8" long (which worried me about the rear wheel) I went for it and am glad I did. Wheelset was finished last night, and Mercy Day do they look nice! Was able to keep with 12ga spokes as well.

THANKS to this community:
•  Checked eBay for the spokes, found them
•  Sourced the brake lever set screw and tail light reflector from a member here
•  Sourced a set of NOS brake pads in great shape
•  Found a NOS Head Badge


Will keep you all updated after the seats are finished and the last couple parts show up. Getting excited, this ought to be a doozy!


Mike


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## ducnut (Feb 15, 2012)

Update?

My all-original '69 Deluxe Twinn.


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## Hb Twinn (Feb 16, 2012)

*Love that Twinn*

WOW! That Twinn is looking fantastic! 
I  know I'm late to the party, but wanted to know where you found NOS  brake pads that weren't hard? Everything I see is rock hard and I don't want to spend a bunch of money to ruin a set of rims.
I've been thinking aboutb trying to adapt some kool stop MAFAC pads. I just got some and initial endeavors are promising. Should just be a little trimming, crimping and filing! Wonder why they can't make some to slip in the standard weinman brackets? In the right size?  I will post some pix as I progress.
Kool Stop, are you listening?
BTW, thanks for giving us a forum to discuss this stuff!


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