# 1984 Greenville Schwinn CC5



## RLS (May 6, 2018)

Hey all,
  So after some serious head scratching and cleanup of that OTHER bike (John Deere themed) I found the Morrow beyond use [brake sleeve and one half of the driver ring busted in two] It occured to Me that there was no way to stop that bike equipped with a motor on account of it would have meant a coaster delete, and no way to put brakes of another type on it.
  I bargained my buddy into a slightly beat up 1983 Cruiser5 in Candy Red for putting together my MotorBike project.
  It was a fairly easy negotiation on account he was not convinced it was a true Chicago due to being equipped with a more AND style tubular front fork.
I went through hell trying to figure out how to get the little black 80cc in the frame before chopping up a badly bent OCC Stingray 4.25×20 rear rim to fabricate custom motor mounts from.
  The issue I ran into was the distance from the inside of the crank (at center of pedal stud) to the frame was a bit to narrow in combination of being roughly a 13.5-14 inch rotation radius at the tip or each crank arm.
  I remedied that in part by trading the crankset with the smaller one from My 1979 Town & Country Trike 3speed (another project for another thread) I of course broke them down to keep the respective chainrings correct.
  To be Cont........


----------



## Schwinn lover (May 6, 2018)

RLS  there a guy called ManicMechanic who sells custom engine mounts. Call George and ask about 1" mounts for a old school Schwinn. No fabrication needed & no headaches!


----------



## Schwinn lover (May 6, 2018)

Oh  And welcome to the cabe!

Ride on ! 
Roger


----------



## GTs58 (May 6, 2018)

Looks like you're having some hardcore fun there. 

 

Following the build.

I think your buddy had the Cruiser pegged as a non Chicago Schwinn. There are parts on it that were made in Chicago but the bike was built by Murray in TN. The first clue on these Murray built Schwinns is the chain stay tubing not being EF at the bottom bracket and the lack of the EF on the bottom bracket shell.


----------



## RLS (May 7, 2018)

GTs58 said:


> Looks like you're having some hardcore fun there. View attachment 802661
> 
> Following the build.
> 
> I think your buddy had the Cruiser pegged as a non Chicago Schwinn. There are parts on it that were made in Chicago but the bike was built by Murray in TN. The first clue on these Murray built Schwinns is the chain stay tubing not being EF at the bottom bracket and the lack of the EF on the bottom bracket shell.



EF?
The serial doesnt hit on the Schwinn Look up and the headbadge is stamped 0184, which is why it was an easy haggle. He wants Chicago Only in his stable.

  Further delving into the messy bits and pieces.
I consider the all frame mounted types wizzer wannabees....mine happens to be a nicer looking black 80cc 2 stroke but very Chinese .
  The cheap quality bolt and clamps are sure to be replaced ASAP, seeing how many couldn't handle the torque requirements of a properly secure install.
  I did take a file and manually "machined" all the fin edges for contrast.
  I would like to get my hands on a smaller 60's or 70's speedo for it.
  As of right now, because I am undecided on how I want to proceed with the finishing touches.... I did not cut down and referule the throttle or clutch cables....and the clutch is perched harshly in the middle of the left bar for Now.
  I have an issue with the neck mounted 5speed stick hitting the fuel tank in sharper turns and knocking it into second gear third if sharp enough..... might be dangerous question Mark Lol! I am not looking at it as an imeadiate issue persie just highly annoying.
  I am thinking about swapping the controls with my buddy and using a bike bug kill switch and thumb throttle because I would rather use the original Hunt and Wilde grips.
Aside from being a bit kiddie cheesy looking, the twist grip set up leaves little to no room for the stock brake levers and this thing doesn't exactly win any 10-0 stopping merits.
  I think mostly because of the old red rubber Diacompe brake shoes combined with the very clean and slick chrome steel rims; Any recommendations for brake shoes with enough grab to nearly put me arsehole over appetite if I play roughly with them?
  So at any rate, I did get it all together after much agrivation and not so pleasant mixed words about crafting my own mounts... as for the recommended motormounts I have seen those on eBay done in raw and PC Black and made from billet CNC Aluminum.
 The issue I might remind you all following this was initially the pedal span was too narrow combined with too large of a crank rotation radius. The simplest solution was solved by using the shorter crank from my 79 trike build.
Now I can focus on getting to project next which spoiler alert- entails building a fresh set if 28 hole rear rims ( BTW, that blue thing in the BG of the last image is the one).
 I had a no spark issue I was able to track down to something buggy with the Killington because disconnecting it gave a pretty blue ark from the 6v stator. I pulled the switch out of the throttle housing and had spark with or with out it..... strip search me on what or why.
 So kill button popped back in, did a quick once over and spark check, and took it for a quick little maiden voyage.
  It popped to life fairly effortlessly and chucked to catch it's first breaths ever so I pinned the clutch and let it idle itself warm, and wound the throttle about 1/4 open and it just wasnt sounding right so I left the clutch pinned and played with the throttle a bit.
 I found the RPM ramp up to be a bit rough as one might expect on a fresh from the box build, so I repeated the 1/4 throttle blipping every 30 seconds before I graduated to half and eventually two or three WOT spikes.
  It began to even out to the point where I could lower the idle RPM via the slide stop screw.

To Be Cont.........


----------



## RLS (May 9, 2018)

So I found out this thing vibrates more than a Harley..... Uhg getting a Manic Mechanic CNC Rear mount at this point.... my fabricated plate busted. The front is holding good, so at least the engine didn't fall out and I only had a few yards home from where it snapped and stalled the engine.
Small blessing big PITA


----------



## RLS (May 9, 2018)

I am considering not taking much of the info given to me by certain members because

A) It is in conflict with readily availible information

B) I absolutely Detest misinfirmation.... it grinds my gears worse than fake two faced losers

C) If you have no informational basis of proof.... forget Me believing You, HOW THA HELL DO YOU know what "you have been told" is remotely accurate?

After taking a dip in 1982-85 Schwinn catalogues I found that 84 seems to be the last Year for CC5/CC7 Schwinns as ALL manufacturers were leaning more into building bikes more for racing, road, BMX, Mountain, and Trail.
The usage of the tubular "BMX type" front fork on Cantilever Cruisers is specific to 83 and 84 as the last two years off original CC5/CC7 bikes.
What I cannot figure out is how the JUxxxxx serial doesn't show up as a Schwinn number, is it possible it is a 94 clone? Highly unlikely because of the amassed number of parts stamped "Schwinn aproved-Made in France" which is uncommon on repro clones.

Hubs: high flange widowed aluminum (matched front and rear set) Schwinn Approved-made in France

Rims- Smooth Chrome steel (no knurl)

Derailure: chrome steel/aluminum
marked: GT510 Schwinn Approved-made in France
Shifter: long stem cast and chromed signature "S" on lever head. It mounts to the steer tube/bearing jam nut as a keyed washer

Brake levers- Aluminum Dia-Compe made clones of old Weinman, as are therest of the brake wares right down to the pads.

Part swaping a bunch of Scwinn parts on a non Schwinn is not imppssible but unlikly since what is left of the decals are factory waterside type on the more rare of only two colors they came in for the last two production years.


----------

