# Iver Fork woes



## tailhole (Mar 18, 2013)

Hi, I have an Iver with a back bent front fork.  I also have a perfectly fine ladies Iver fork.  I was wondering if anyone has cut down a ladies fork and re-threaded it for a men's frame.  I know the fork shoulders are different, but want to start riding it.  Also, does anyone know (or have) what is the correct front axle with the sliding bolt to fit these forks with a hole instead of a slot for the front axle?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks


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## fordmike65 (Mar 18, 2013)

I don't know if Iver's are different, but I've cut down and threaded several ladies ballooner forks for myself and a few Cabe members.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Mar 18, 2013)

I'm thinking that a very good old-school blacksmith or custom bike frame builder could straighten the bent Iver fork.
The fork can be heated for straightening and then heat treated.


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## Iverider (Mar 19, 2013)

Trade you a shorter fork for the ladies fork.

It's the red fork on the leftmost side of the photo. The steerer tube is 6 3/4" long. "Drop"outs are in good shape, fork is straight and in good shape with no cracks or dings or bends. I'm not sure if it has a crown race on it presently.






This is the middle fork but I have already traded for another ladies fork at a different point in time.
I'm just including the photo so you can see what the top of the crown looks like (all three forks in the above pic are the same style with same size steerer.


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## scrubbinrims (Mar 19, 2013)

The issue with Iver forks is that the threaded section is stepped down in diameter and might even have it's own tpi fitted headset (apart from the standard).
To my knowledge, it is not possible to simply cut the threaded section off and rethread as it would leave you with a greater diameter to work with the headset.
What is feasible is cutting the amount out that is necessary from the center of the tube and tapering the ends for a strong weld.
Chris


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## Iverider (Mar 19, 2013)

Iver forks are weird. I've seen the step down that you're talking about, but I have forks that don't have a step.

I could be wrong, but I'm wondering if the Heavy Service model had a thicker steerer tube. Of the three forks I posted, the middle fork has a thicker steerer than the others (which do not have a step between threaded and non-threaded parts) The crown race diameter had a significant difference in I.D. as well. 

All of the forks take a 1" headset nut with no trouble (Iver or not).


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## Iverider (Mar 19, 2013)

Rather than cut the fork and reweld, it could be turned down a bit on a lathe and threaded afterward. I think that would be a more trustworthy repair than welding, but to each their own. Hopefully we can work out a trade so no forkers will be cut!


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## fat tire trader (Mar 19, 2013)

I would start bike taking the fork to someone who has experience straightening bicycle forks and has the correct tools. It might be easy to straighten. If the steerer tube on the ladies fork is larger in diameter than the outside diameter of the threads, it will need to be turned down on a lathe, or cut off and spliced. I would turn it instead of cutting it. If you don't have someone local who straightens forks, you can send it to me. I also have a lathe. It would be nice to see pictures that show how badly the fork is bent. I would not bring the fork to a blacksmith unless he has experience straightening bicycle forks.


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## Iverider (Mar 19, 2013)

ANOTHER option for the bent fork:

Strip it to bare metal so you can see how it's constructed and replace the steerer to factory specs (or as close as you can get.

Nova cycles sells steerer tubes brandy new for not much. If you can heat the brass used in joining the steerer to the crown and remove it without dicking up your fork leg brazing you should be able to reinstall a new steerer into the socket. This of course should be done by someone who has some experience brazing (or silver soldering)

I intended to do this myself until I found someone getting ready to cut a longer fork for their bike asking the same question you did.

Just trade me and be done with it 

BTW...for a good explanation of a pro doing steerer grafting watch this.

[video=youtube;HNbJ9dadNYo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNbJ9dadNYo[/video]


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## Andrew Gorman (Mar 19, 2013)

RE:Also, does anyone know (or have) what is the correct front axle with the sliding bolt to fit these forks with a hole instead of a slot for the front axle?

More than likely you did not have a "knock out" axle.  Standard procedure was to have round holes at the ends of the forks well into the 1920's,  You just have to horse the forks over the ends of the axles.


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## bricycle (Mar 19, 2013)

When you install the front axle, you leave one side with more thread showing than the other. When you install the wheel, the longer axle end gets inserted in the fork hole first , then the shorter end will go in a bit easier.


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## tailhole (Mar 19, 2013)

*Thanks all*

Well, took the ladies & mens off the bikes today after work and my fork tube is much too short at approx 5.25".  The trade fork was nearly 7", the threaded part ended before my 5.25"  So should I keep the ladies and cut it down?  Also, the cups are very different between the two bikes. I guess I have to steal those from the ladies frame too? The last photo is the trade fork.


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## tailhole (Mar 19, 2013)

*Thanks!*



bricycle said:


> When you install the front axle, you leave one side with more thread showing than the other. When you install the wheel, the longer axle end gets inserted in the fork hole first , then the shorter end will go in a bit easier.



Thanks!  That's what I've been doing, but it just seems a little 'brutish' for such a fine machine.  Know what I mean.


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## pelletman (Mar 19, 2013)

Fix the fork, there is a Park tool for that purpose, you could also do it in a press, and maybe a vise


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## Iverider (Mar 19, 2013)

You could save the less common long fork and cut a more common length down.


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## pelletman (Mar 19, 2013)

*Fixing Forks*

I suggest you click on this link

http://books.google.com/books/about/bicycle_repairing.html?id=8tFk2_ekVa0C

And start reading the chapter on "The Fork"


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## jpromo (Mar 19, 2013)

pelletman said:


> Fix the fork, there is a Park tool for that purpose, you could also do it in a press, and maybe a vise




Ah, yes, the fork/frame straightener. Reminds me of the time I went to my LBS with hopes of them having this very tool for straightening a bent Elgin fork of mine. I walked to the shop area and, lo-and-behold, there was the tool! I asked the tech if he could do anything to straighten my fork, to which he said no. I pointed out the tool and mentioned that was its purpose. He said he could sell me a new MTB fork for 25$ and wouldn't touch mine. I haven't gone back there since.

I lied; I go back to nab the empty bike boxes they set out back.


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## pelletman (Mar 19, 2013)

Ask to borrow the tool!


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## dougfisk (Mar 19, 2013)

pelletman said:


> Ask to borrow the tool!




Better yet - ask them to sell me the tool! :eek:


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## tailhole (Mar 19, 2013)

*Awesome!*



pelletman said:


> I suggest you click on this link
> 
> http://books.google.com/books/about/bicycle_repairing.html?id=8tFk2_ekVa0C
> 
> And start reading the chapter on "The Fork"




Thanks! That's great, I already have all that stuff!  I did try to straighten it when I first got the bike & did get it ridable, but now that I have the ladies to use as a template (I'm going to build the two part block mold and clamp it in between.  I LOVE THE CABE!!  
Thanks everyone!
-Scott


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## rustyspoke66 (Mar 20, 2013)

If you havent done anything with the original fork yet it can be repaired without any welding or paint. Call me at 509-991-1292. I have a fork truing jig and can fix it.


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## fat tire trader (Mar 20, 2013)

Andrew Gorman said:


> RE:Also, does anyone know (or have) what is the correct front axle with the sliding bolt to fit these forks with a hole instead of a slot for the front axle?
> 
> More than likely you did not have a "knock out" axle.  Standard procedure was to have round holes at the ends of the forks well into the 1920's,  You just have to horse the forks over the ends of the axles.



I have a special tool that is like a reverse pliers that spreads fork blades to ease the installation of the wheel.


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## rustyspoke66 (Mar 20, 2013)

fat tire trader said:


> I have a special tool that is like a reverse pliers that spreads fork blades to ease the installation of the wheel.




Sounds like a very handy tool.


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## tailhole (Mar 20, 2013)

*PM sent*



rustyspoke66 said:


> If you havent done anything with the original fork yet it can be repaired without any welding or paint. Call me at 509-991-1292. I have a fork truing jig and can fix it.




I'll give you a call this weekend.  I also sent a PM.  Thanks, sounds good to me.


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## MOTOmike (Jun 10, 2013)

Is this a tool that can be purchased somewhere??  Or did you make this yourself?

Mike





fat tire trader said:


> I have a special tool that is like a reverse pliers that spreads fork blades to ease the installation of the wheel.


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## fat tire trader (Jun 11, 2013)

The tool is shown in this thread

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?5686-Fork-spreader

The catalog picture does not show the tool very well. If anyone asks, I'll post a picture of my tool. It would not be hard to make.


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