# Im struggling with my Whizzer.



## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

So I have had my J model for about a year now and it's been very easy on me. No major problems at all. Ran great.

Recently, I took it up to Chattanooga to visit a friend. Took it up there, started it up and everything was fine.

Once I got home, I swapped the points cover with a nicer reproduction and added an air filter. 

It hasn't ran right since then. I took it to a local small engine shop and he said that it was the head gasket. He said it busted and was leaking air.

So I replaced the gasket with a memory-lane Re-pop but no change. 

It will start fine but once I give it gas it wont accelerate right. The rpms go up and down instead of steadily increasing. 

When I try to adjust the carb it make no difference.

Timing? Sticky value? Thoughts?


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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

May be fuel filter is clogging once stirred up. try taking the new stuff off, if goes back to running well, must be fuel related(air filter too restrictive?)


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

bricycle said:


> May be fuel filter is clogging once stirred up. try taking the new stuff off, if goes back to running well, must be fuel related(air filter too restrictive?)




Runs same with or without it:/ 


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## THE STIG (Sep 1, 2015)

is the choke on


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

THE STIG said:


> is the choke on




Choke is off 


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Sep 1, 2015)

Did you try to start without air filter?


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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

What does plug ceramic look like? tan, whiter, darker, black? Tan is what you are gunning for. Too light is too hot or too lean, too dark or sooty is too rich, too cold a plug, or if greasy, is burning some oil. Not sure think J4J is correct? j6j bit hotter, j8j hotter yet.
Is bottom of float bowl dirty? fuel level in bowl correct?


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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

one thing that really screwed with my mind, was once mine spun a flywheel key. took me forever to find my problem. put a Briggs Stratton key in.... re-timed it, ran great.


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## T.J. Higgins (Sep 1, 2015)

If the air filter is a reproduction, take it off.  The material that it is made of will choke the motor out.  had the same problem


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Sep 1, 2015)

T.J. Higgins said:


> If the air filter is a reproduction, take it off.  The material that it is made of will choke the motor out.  had the same problem




I thought the same thing since I heard of this happening.


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## bikewhorder (Sep 1, 2015)

You're awfully young to be having Whizzer problems already.


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## racie35 (Sep 1, 2015)

Make a short video of it acting up if you can. That'll help I think


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

I called ML to see if they had an idea.

Looks like I got it out of wack when I replaced the points cover.

The original owner had the condinsor wire routed outside the motor and attached to the points cover screw...BUT they didn't have it routed through the hole on the motor for that wire. They had drilled out a slot for it on the actual points cover they made for the wire.

So when I bought my points cover, I rerouted it the correct way.....(loosening the set screw in the process and throwing the points out of wack)

Duhhhhhhhh

So now i'm about to reset them correctly and see where I'm at.

Setting the IGN on flywheel to the TM on the block and adjusting the gap at 0.015...


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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

Setting with a light is the way to go, the mark is just ballpark sometimes.


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Sep 1, 2015)

American Vintage Bicycle Supply said:


> I called ML to see if they had an idea.
> 
> Looks like I got it out of wack when I replaced the points cover.
> 
> ...




Let us know if you get it going. Also please post some pics.


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

bricycle said:


> Setting with a light is the way to go, the mark is just ballpark sometimes.





After I tried what he said now I can't get it running at all. 


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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

ahh, the joy's of owning a Whizzer. When they are running good they're marvelous, when they give you trouble, they are a bee-auch!


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

bricycle said:


> ahh, the joy's of owning a Whizzer. When they are running good they're marvelous, when they give you trouble, they are a bee-auch!




Okay so stig told me to try .017 gap and that worked.

Got it going again but it won't start as easy as it did before. (Weird)

Once I took it for a ride, I finally got the carb adjusted right for a second and it his a power stoke which it had not done since it started acting up. Really that was what I was trying to get back. 

After I killed it I let it cool down and tried to get it going again but it would start which leads me to believe the carb needs to be dialed in more.


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## THE STIG (Sep 1, 2015)

American Vintage Bicycle Supply said:


> Okay so stig told me to try .017 gap and that worked.




just a starting point ,,, .033 is were they need to be


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

bricycle said:


> Setting with a light is the way to go, the mark is just ballpark sometimes.




What do you mean by setting with a light? 


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## fordmike65 (Sep 1, 2015)




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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

American Vintage Bicycle Supply said:


> What do you mean by setting with a light?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




It's been so long, I'd have to read exactly how....
Ok, it is said: Insert point assy. and secure it with the two attaching screws and shake proof washers.
Rotate crankshaft until piston is moving upward on the compression stroke and the "IGN" mark on flywheel is aligned with the "TM" mark on the crankcase.
Attach alligator clip on the lead wire to the breaker point terminal screw. 
Ground the timing light to any part of engine.
Loosen the point lock screw just enough to allow the movable contact to be adjusted.
Adjust the points by turning the eccentric screw until the light JUST goes out. 
Tighten the lock screw and recheck the timing.

Before this, set coil heels(laminates) to flywheel air gap to .012 (thickness of calling card?)


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Sep 1, 2015)

Where could I get myself one of those lights?


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## fordmike65 (Sep 1, 2015)

http://www.ebay.tv/sch/Collectibles...HT&LH_Complete=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Sep 1, 2015)

fordmike65 said:


> http://www.ebay.tv/sch/Collectibles...HT&LH_Complete=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684




Ebay doesn't have any


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## bricycle (Sep 1, 2015)

whizzer_motorbike_fan said:


> Where could I get myself one of those lights?




Doesn't have to be a Whizzer light. Auto store has them also. Hale, you can make one as well....


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## fordmike65 (Sep 1, 2015)

bricycle said:


> Doesn't have to be a Whizzer light. Auto store has them also. Hale, you can make one as well....




True,but the Whizzer lights are pretty darn cool


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 1, 2015)

Ok, I'm following you on the light deal. 

So does anyone know the symptoms of the points being off by just a little?

Unfortunately my carb is out of Wack also so I'm kinda nailing jello to a tree. 


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Sep 1, 2015)

fordmike65 said:


> True,but the Whizzer lights are pretty darn cool




Do you know where to get a whizzer one fordmike65?


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## fordmike65 (Sep 1, 2015)

No. Just checked completed listing on eBay and found those.


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## American Vintage Bicycle Supply (Sep 2, 2015)

Set the pints gap to .032. 

Took the carb off. Cleaned it really good. 

Replaced a few parts from a kit. Put it back on. 

Hits high speed strong now. (No up and down rms) but it stalls out and won't idle well so I assume that's just some small tweaking. 


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## bricycle (Sep 2, 2015)

mine did that also, think is was a bit too rich.


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## Goldenrod1 (Sep 4, 2015)

Take off the air filter!  After you do you will see a tube that you blocked with the bolt.  Just guessing.      Ray


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