# my first motorized bike build - project page



## azbug-i (Sep 13, 2015)

Hello! My old friend started building really cool motorized bikes and it inspired me, id like to try it out!

I picked up this panther repop frame and fitted tank, and also some bars, and some 26 ballooner wheels online. Plus a motor at the local bike shop. Ill post pics as the bars come together. 

Heres the start 

Frame/Tank







Engine and some various parts, bars, brakes, grips are in this pile (will not be using that tire set - using cream colored tires). rims are on the way. I currently have some bmx 3 piece cranks for it too. Need to find a bmx sprocket probably, maybe a vintage sprocket is just as well. likely will stick to half inch pitch drive train. 





monark fork - im gonna sand blast it and clear coat it I think. the fork has been welded already. I KNOW ITS BAD TO REMOVE OG PAINT, I don't like doing it . I didn't end up removing any paint for the time being. 









Update 10/8/15
Went a different route with wheels and cranks - using bmx cranks and cassette bmx wheels so the gearing will be 25t x 9t on the wheel. Im waiting for the rear axle to come in, so I can switch the rear from 14mm down to 3/8s. I found better shaped vintage bars on my parts shelf, so I don't need to use the chrome ones (at least ill try these first)

I also need to weld a brake bridge onto the frame to install some caliper brakes on the back. Also want to chop the seat post tube (its much longer than I need) Im even considering welding a plate for the seat to mount to instead of even using a seat post. 

Once I get the rear wheel taken care of and I get some hardware that the tank was missing, and install the brakes, ill start installing the rest of the motor stuff. Its just bolted on right now. 

Here are some pics


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## theterrym (Oct 2, 2015)

That's quite the custom build!!


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## azbug-i (Oct 7, 2015)

thanks yeah its gonna be cool! some of the parts have changed. will update soon!


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## Robertriley (Oct 7, 2015)

Use worksman wheelsets, they are tPugh as nails and look great


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## azbug-i (Oct 7, 2015)

robertriley ill check those out. Im actually gonna use a bmx 26 inch cassette wheel set, its sick. the gearing will be 25t up front and 9t in back! and will leave the motor very exposed. It should look good, and those wheels are BUILT to last. 
Only downside is braking, a drum break might have been nicer than the caliper brakes Im going to try to use. :-/ we will see. Its just a 66cc so it shouldn't be too fast! 

Will start building soon!


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## azbug-i (Oct 10, 2015)

More work today
Welded a plate for mounting the caliper brakes and seat brackets. Chopped the seat post tube. 



















This is the look im going for. From last night


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## azbug-i (Oct 12, 2015)

Most recent mock up. Still working on front drop outs and waiting for rear axle for the correct wheel. This rear wheel is a doner for pics. Got the seat and brakes mounted. The plate  turned out swell !


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## theterrym (Oct 12, 2015)

It looks pretty sweet!! That's some nice welding.


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## azbug-i (Oct 12, 2015)

Thanks for the compliment on the welding! he actually dislikes the welds because he can do better, hes ashamed of these haha and I think they look great! haha


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## azbug-i (Oct 17, 2015)

rode it today. all is well and ready for motor assembly. 

today i installed the brake cable and lever and setup the brakes, put the rear axle into the bmx cassette wheel, put the motor drive cnc'd rear sprocket assemble, pedals, and tightened everything up for a ride! it rides super smooth! oh i finished the fork drop outs too. 

current parts:
repop panther frame and stainless tank to match
troxel style saddle
profile bmx cranks and profile imperial sprocket, bmx pedals
primo/shadow bmx cassette 26'' wheels - sealed cartridge bearing
cncd rear sprocket assembly
monark deluxe forks
20s handlebars
brick tires
generic stem
caliper brakes, tektro arm.


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## bikewhorder (Oct 17, 2015)

Wow you've been busy!


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## azbug-i (Oct 17, 2015)

i know! luckily i had many of these parts laying around! took a while for the rear axle to come in. that was the main hold up

do you like it chris?


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## azbug-i (Oct 17, 2015)

Going  to put black pedals on. I dont like the red


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Oct 17, 2015)

Looks pretty cool! My first motorized bike was a lot like this (I still have it) since I couldn't afford a whizzer. I really have a lot of fun riding it and should post some pics! (Know I finally own a whizzer!) Really like the board track look too, I also was inspired with that style for my build. Post some pics of mine tomorrow but yours is looking sweet!


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## azbug-i (Oct 18, 2015)

Definitely  post some  pics !


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## azbug-i (Oct 26, 2015)

more progress yesterday. I started assembling the engine, to find out my kit was missing the throttle assy. UGH! I have to order one. I installed many of the components, though. Including the clutch cable and lever too. Now Im waiting to get the throttle parts. Boo. 

Don't worry, Ill be cleaning up those wire runs.


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## azbug-i (Oct 30, 2015)

Fixed the chain tensioner (motor company does it backwards!) And cleaned up the cables.


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## azbug-i (Nov 16, 2015)

Put the correct headset on and better condition forks. Ready for start up. I had to mofidy the headset so we will see if it works. Might need more work


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## rustjunkie (Nov 16, 2015)

A word of caution about the fork: if it compresses a little too far it will grab the front tire and throw the bike over before you know it. 
This will happen if the top nut comes loose too: the top plate will move up and the fork will grab the tire. 
Sometimes top nuts and steer tubes don't have a great bite on each other. 
I know this from experience and it's definitely not a _fun _experience.


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## azbug-i (Nov 16, 2015)

Oh man scott thank you for letting me know. Do i need to just check that the top nut is tight all the time? 

Makes me not want to use spring forks haha. I cant stand them on my regular bikes. They just fit the look so good


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## rustjunkie (Nov 16, 2015)

After I crashed hard on The Black Monark I locked the fork out by installing nuts on the rods for the springs. Then I realized that if the top nut comes off the steer tube I'm going over the bars fast. 
This shouldn't be a problem if the spring fork is not locked-out, but if it is then all the force is taken up by the top plate which in turn is pushing on the top nut. 
I'm replacing the spring-fork with a truss-rod fork now. I'd be extra-wary of having one on a motorized bike: more weight, more speed, more fork-dive when braking.


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## azbug-i (Nov 16, 2015)

Yeah good call if i notice stuff off the bat being uncomfortable ill switch to a truss fork too! Ill use some lock tight on the nut too


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## azbug-i (Nov 16, 2015)

Scott is it important that the small drop out piece be installed on the inside or outside of the fork tubes? I have them on the outside to clear my hub spacing. But that means the bolts are flipped too. Does that make sense?


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## rustjunkie (Nov 16, 2015)

azbug-i said:


> Scott is it important that the small drop out piece be installed on the inside or outside of the fork tubes? I have them on the outside to clear my hub spacing. But that means the bolts are flipped too. Does that make sense?




I don't think it matters, just make sure that those pieces and the nuts/bolts are in good condition. If they've been chrome plated you might want to read up on this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement

https://www.google.com/search?q=hyd...ess&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&gws_rd=ssl


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## azbug-i (Nov 16, 2015)

They arent chrome plated. But i will survey their condition  great idea.  I also think ill lock tight the nuts on!

The motor kit instructions didnt have me lock tight anything which i thought was weird so im going to run it a little while and go through and check all the bolts


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## rustjunkie (Nov 16, 2015)

azbug-i said:


> They arent chrome plated. But i will survey their condition  great idea.  I also think ill lock tight the nuts on!




Cool, just be careful with that fork. You might test it standing still to see how much force it takes for the underside of the fork to touch/get near the tire.


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## azbug-i (Nov 16, 2015)

I really appreciate the tip. I will definitely do that without the motor on to see if i can get it to slip


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## azbug-i (Nov 23, 2015)

I took it for a handful of short rides yesterday. Its fun. Needs adjustments for sure. But i then got sick haha. Boo. Will post pics when better


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## Iverider (Nov 23, 2015)

Nice build! I've wanted to try a disc brake adapter on this type of fork for awhile.

I wonder if it would cause a lot of brake dive.

http://www.pistonbikes.com/product-p/msfa.htm


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Nov 23, 2015)

azbug-i said:


> They arent chrome plated. But i will survey their condition  great idea.  I also think ill lock tight the nuts on!
> 
> The motor kit instructions didnt have me lock tight anything which i thought was weird so im going to run it a little while and go through and check all the bolts




You're going to want to loctite those engine mounting bolts. I didn't at first since directions didn't say to and checked them frequently but after a long ride I got home and the engine was barely attached to the bike so I took it apart loctited everything and haven't had much to worry about.


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## azbug-i (Nov 23, 2015)

Sounds great i will lock tight the mounting bolts!

And i definitely would be afraid of having too much front brake action with disc up there.


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## azbug-i (Dec 1, 2015)

Even after lock tite on the bolts for the back sprocket they come loose every ride  

Bike rides well though


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## rustjunkie (Dec 1, 2015)

How close is the front tire coming to the underside of the fork when it's in action?


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## azbug-i (Dec 1, 2015)

It seems to clear it no issue but i need to watch closely still as i ride more


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## rustjunkie (Dec 1, 2015)

emailed


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## RustyHornet (Dec 2, 2015)

azbug-i said:


> Even after lock tite on the bolts for the back sprocket they come loose every ride
> 
> Bike rides well though




I discovered by accident if I have a nut that absolutely must not come loose, use a nylock nut and red loc-tite. Something in the loc-tite reacted with the nylon in the nut and it took every bit of a 1/2" impact gun to get it off, this was on a 1/2" bolt if I remember right.

Jon


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## azbug-i (Dec 3, 2015)

Unfortunately its a retained fastener. Captive type. So a bolt just goes into a piece of machined aluminum 

Im gonna clean and go with red lock tite. Blue didnt do it


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## RustyHornet (Dec 3, 2015)

azbug-i said:


> Unfortunately its a retained fastener. Captive type. So a bolt just goes into a piece of machined aluminum
> 
> Im gonna clean and go with red lock tite. Blue didnt do it




Red should do it. Is it possible to put a lock washer under the head of the bolt?


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## azbug-i (Dec 3, 2015)

Its countersunk. So no i cant do that either. Lame haha


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## RustyHornet (Dec 3, 2015)

azbug-i said:


> Its countersunk. So no i cant do that either. Lame haha




Well that stinks... Not very user friendly. I say you find a way to weld the steel and aluminum together and call it good!


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## azbug-i (Dec 3, 2015)

Hahaha thats the ticket indeed


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## RustyHornet (Dec 5, 2015)

Were you able to get this one resolved yet?


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## azbug-i (Dec 7, 2015)

Still working with locktite. But i have had some good rides on it. Found some more nuts and bolts to put lock tite on. Its going good though. Its a learning experience.


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## RustyHornet (Dec 7, 2015)

Good deal. I've not messed with one of these yet, but I've heard they can be a pain with things coming loose just like a Harley. Learning experiences are always fun.


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## azbug-i (Dec 10, 2015)

Yeah exactly!  Its cool to learn from it and its really fun to ride. Its coming along well. Everytime i ride it i work out one more issue. Last thing i fixed was the headset. And leaned it out a little on the mixture and that seems to have helped a lot. And its idling better. 

Need to lock tite more stuff haha


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## Robertriley (Dec 10, 2015)

Amanda, 
Get that baby finished up and buy mine


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## azbug-i (Dec 11, 2015)

I couldnt even begin to afford yours


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## El Hefe Grande (Apr 6, 2016)

Hello,

what a great looking bike... I'm working on something similar and have learned a lot during the installation too!

Taking a universal kit and installing it on a 1952 Schwinn straight bar frame has had some challenges and some modifications.

I have researched different parts suppliers and many image searches to see what has worked for others...so I could configure my parts list. 

There isn't a lot of information out there to convert a straight bar Schwinn with a  66 cc engine.  I think that you were wise to buy the panther frame as it has a front engine mount. 

 One of the challenges for 1" lower bar Schwinn frame...is to get the motor to mount solid to the frame.

 I have mounted the engine and controls to ensure that everything works together...after about 2 1/2 hours on the bike...most things are worked out.

Now its time to tear it all down and paint the frame and forks.

I will post some images after it is painted.

Jerry


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## azbug-i (Apr 7, 2016)

Thats cool!!!

I have to mention this tank i bought is really a piece of junk. Poor craftsmanship. The welds are unfinished and cracked in many places. It leaks fuel all over. The company hasnt been very communicative so my friend here is going to fix it. Beware if youre planning to buy one of the tanks. They say they pressure test them. There is no way they pressure tested mine. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## El Hefe Grande (Apr 7, 2016)

I have been considering one of these tanks because they really enhance the bike.
My dad purchased one of these same tanks...the price is right, you couldn't make this tank for the price and he hasn't had any issues with leaking. What a bummer to have to fix it.  

There is a "Panther Gas Tank" that is made in America for $325.00 + shipping.  here is a link http://sportsmanflyer.com/shop/parts/panther-gas-tank/   I may have to consider this tank based on your experience.  

Just like you, I used parts that were laying around here to build this motor bike, to try to keep costs down,  but the tank is the last piece before paint and costs more than the engine and rear wheel adapter put together.

 I may have to paint the "peanut" tank until I can acquire the cool stainless one!


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## azbug-i (Apr 7, 2016)

Oh see my tank is made in china. Id buy the sportsman too!

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## El Hefe Grande (Apr 8, 2016)

I need to clarify my last post.

My Dad purchased the same tank that you purchased from ebay.  He hasn't noticed any leakage as of yet...  the price is right at $179.00 + shipping.

and made in China.

The Panther Sportsman is made in America and the description gives the impression that it is a better built tank, and you pay for the quality. I think that it has a better front shape. I wish that both the china and the USA tanks had a narrower rear portion...to better sit between the frame.

My point was that it is a bummer that the seller will not respond back to you to make the tank right. ( Hint; Maybe with a little pressure from eBay !)


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## Schwinn lover (Apr 19, 2016)

El Hefe Grande said:


> The Panther Sportsman is made in America and the description gives the impression that it is a better built tank, and you pay for the quality. I think that it has a better front shape. I wish that both the china and the USA tanks had a narrower rear portion...to better sit between the frame.




Yes, The  Sportsman tank is  awesome!!! I have a few on my builds


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## azbug-i (Oct 27, 2016)

I never saw this last post but how awesome! ill be buying my future parts from sportsman because the stuff i bought from tai cao or however its spelled has been total garbage  my tank had to be rewelded. i need to put some pics of mine up!


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## azbug-i (Nov 3, 2016)

Getting it back together. once im happy with everything ill replace zip ties with tie wire


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## Robertriley (Nov 3, 2016)

It looks good Amanda.  Too bad I sold my old one and my new one isn't finished yet or I'd would bring it this Saturday night.  I'm guessing it will be done before xmas.  My new one should do 80mph pretty easily.


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## Andrew Gorman (Nov 3, 2016)

Old motorcycle guys always told me 3M *yellow* weatherstrip cement was better than Loctite, and I've never had a fastener loosen up when I used it.  Get some on the threads and a bit on the end where the bolt pokes through the nut.  Be sure to get the yellow, not the clear.


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## fordmike65 (Nov 3, 2016)

Andrew Gorman said:


> Old motorcycle guys always told me 3M *yellow* weatherstrip cement was better than Loctite, and I've never had a fastener loosen up when I used it.  Get some on the threads and a bit on the end where the bolt pokes through the nut.  Be sure to get the yellow, not the clear.



Gorilla snot?


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## azbug-i (Nov 3, 2016)

Andrew thank you ill try that!

Chris i totally want to see your new bike, plus i do want to get one of those someday too. Even if its a "slower"  or smaller one hahaha

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