# 1951 Rudge Aero Clubman #125



## wrongway (Sep 5, 2018)

I couldn't resist this one. I have been wanting a sort of rare Clubman bike like this. It needs.....some work, but mostly cosmetic, I think. I'm wondering if some of the paint can be brought back while saving the transfers? I think all of the bike is here. The front fender is, but not in real good shape, but neither is the rear one. The serial number is on the Bottom Bracket and is: 60686 BD.


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## dnc1 (Sep 6, 2018)

Nice find!


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## wrongway (Sep 7, 2018)

Thanks! It seems to be all complete and correct except for the pieces of fenders. I tried polishing up the chrome on one of the forks and it looks like it will do well. The front wheel axle might be tricky, though.


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## Oilit (Sep 8, 2018)

Wow! I see why you want to clean up the paint, but those transfers are in a class by themselves. That has the makings of a beautiful bike!


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## wrongway (Sep 8, 2018)

Oilit said:


> Wow! I see why you want to clean up the paint, but those transfers are in a class by themselves. That has the makings of a beautiful bike!



Thanks. I started exploring it more today. The wheels are pretty decent. Should clean up well. The may be incorrect as it's an AW and not an alloy hub of some sort.


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## detroitbike (Sep 8, 2018)

Decals and paint look great to me.!
I’d just do a very light cleaning myself


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## wrongway (Sep 8, 2018)

detroitbike said:


> Decals and paint look great to me.!
> I’d just do a very light cleaning myself



If it were yours you wouldn't try to bring the color back as I did that small patch? Am I wrong to?


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## bulldog1935 (Sep 16, 2018)

wrongway said:


> If it were yours you wouldn't try to bring the color back as I did that small patch? Am I wrong to?



that looks like cleaning to me - you didn't do anything wrong.  Keep at it.


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## dweenk (Sep 19, 2018)

I concur, just clean up the paint around the decals, address the rust on the bright parts, and service the bearings. That is a beautiful bike.


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## wrongway (Sep 20, 2018)

Here is what I've come up with and where I'll probably stop with the cleaning. I used some light steel wool and WD40 first and then some polishing/rubbing compound and a cloth. I followed it up with wax. I used Chrome Polish on the chrome after steel wool. I think this is as good as I'm going to get it. Now to re-assemble!


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## wrongway (Sep 20, 2018)

dweenk said:


> I concur, just clean up the paint around the decals, address the rust on the bright parts, and service the bearings. That is a beautiful bike.



Thanks! I think it was well ridden over the years! Not really abused just not left to gather dust. I gathered that from all the patina and the Schwinn bike pads on the rear!


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## SirMike1983 (Sep 20, 2018)

Looks like it cleaned up well. I would go with that look - no reason for harsh measures here. You have reached the bike's natural current condition and it isn't worth going to harsher methods. Use that method consistently on the whole, re-assemble and ride.


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## wrongway (Sep 20, 2018)

SirMike1983 said:


> Looks like it cleaned up well. I would go with that look - no reason for harsh measures here. You have reached the bike's natural current condition and it isn't worth going to harsher methods. Use that method consistently on the whole, re-assemble and ride.



Thanks. That's my plan now. I did get a little aggressive with the top tube in one place. There is another bike just like this online and it looks about the same color wise. So I'll live with it. After all, it's 67 years old!


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## wrongway (Nov 6, 2018)

I took this out for a trail ride this last week and it was much easier to pedal (46x17) than I thought and quite fast! Mostly on flat trails, though, I'm sure. It looks like to me that the bars originally had some grips on the drops only. Would that be right? The rest of the bars would be bare, correct? What should I be looking for as grips?


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## dweenk (Nov 6, 2018)

Yes, the bars were bare above the brake levers (and your levers appear to be located lower on the drops than usual). As far as grips - I will defer to someone with more knowledge, but if it were mine I would just tape the lower ends with 2 or 3 wraps of cotton.


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## bikerbluz (Nov 6, 2018)

Beautiful bike! Love the transfers and lugs. Nice job on the clean up.


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## wrongway (Nov 6, 2018)

dweenk said:


> Yes, the bars were bare above the brake levers (and your levers appear to be located lower on the drops than usual). As far as grips - I will defer to someone with more knowledge, but if it were mine I would just tape the lower ends with 2 or 3 wraps of cotton.



I think that was an early picture of it. The brake levers are higher up now. This bike is actually quite comfortable in the drops. I'm surprised. I think I'll just go with the bar wrap. I noticed another one just like it online and that's what they did.


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## wrongway (Nov 6, 2018)

bikerbluz said:


> Beautiful bike! Love the transfers and lugs. Nice job on the clean up.



Thanks!


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## juvela (Nov 6, 2018)

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Can the Rudge experts explain how it is that some examples receive the hand chainwheel and some not?

Does it have more to do with quality level or with when manufactured?

Have no knowledge of the marque, hence this silly question.

Thanks for any information.

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## SirMike1983 (Nov 6, 2018)

Probably Britainnia or Constrictor grips would be my pick, particularly the longer black grips. I think they were being reproduced and a shop up in Mass. had them. The tops probably would be bare, but I would be inclined to do a few wraps of Newbaums tape up top if you ride on the bar tops much. I have a 1951 Raleigh Clubman waiting for reasselbly and setup, and this is how I will go at least. Set it up your way if you are going to ride. Don't ride in pain just to match a catalog image.


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## wrongway (Nov 7, 2018)

juvela said:


> -----
> 
> Can the Rudge experts explain how it is that some examples receive the hand chainwheel and some not?
> 
> ...



I have no idea and it is a good question. I have a 1947 Rudge Whitworth with full chaincase. It has the Hand Of Ulster chain ring and you would never see it except during maintenance. I also had a '59 Rudge with the very plain chainring. The one on this '51 is a 2 piece chain ring.


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## wrongway (Nov 7, 2018)

dweenk said:


> Yes, the bars were bare above the brake levers (and your levers appear to be located lower on the drops than usual). As far as grips - I will defer to someone with more knowledge, but if it were mine I would just tape the lower ends with 2 or 3 wraps of cotton.



Here is where they are now. Pretty comfortable. Look more normal?


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## dweenk (Nov 7, 2018)

That looks good. What brand of mud guards did you use?


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## wrongway (Nov 7, 2018)

dweenk said:


> That looks good. What brand of mud guards did you use?



I got them from ebay. I believe they are Ivorette. I can't get the front one to quit rubbing. My just be the new tire nibblets.....


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## juvela (Dec 14, 2018)

wrongway said:


> I have no idea and it is a good question. I have a 1947 Rudge Whitworth with full chaincase. It has the Hand Of Ulster chain ring and you would never see it except during maintenance. I also had a '59 Rudge with the very plain chainring. The one on this '51 is a 2 piece chain ring.




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Thanks so much for the response!  

Have never seen a Hand of Ulster chainset where the chainwheel was removable.  Do such exist? 

Perhaps it was the case that top quality models such as this with the Reynolds tubing and Williams C34 chainset with its replaceable chainwheel did not receive the hand.

Finished project looks "just right" - congratulations on a fine job.  

Those mudguards you located have the perfect look for the machine.

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Reynolds question for the experts -

Noticed that the cycle's tubing transfer proclaims plain gauge tubing including blades and stays.  It seems that this tubeset disappeared (was withdrawn?) at some point.   Many frames were produced in Britain and France during the '60's and '70's with the three main tubes 531 plain gauge but never saw any from that era with this transfer.  Am I in error to think the set must have been withdrawn at some point?

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Your locus:  "So now ah knowz whar all o' them winderz ah seez on houses har in Californie comz frumm!"  

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## bulldog1935 (Dec 14, 2018)

wrongway said:


> Here is where they are now. Pretty comfortable. Look more normal? View attachment 896878



Great job on this bike - great result and great photo.  
I missed this, but had a good excuse - was fishing the Texas tropics that week.


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## wrongway (Dec 14, 2018)

juvela said:


> -----
> 
> Thanks so much for the response!
> 
> ...



I don't know if they made a two piece chain ring for the Hand Of Ulster. 
Thanks for the kind compliments.


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## wrongway (Dec 14, 2018)

bulldog1935 said:


> Great job on this bike - great result and great photo.
> I missed this, but had a good excuse - was fishing the Texas tropics that week.



Thanks!


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## juvela (Dec 14, 2018)

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Fork crown appears to wear a partial chrome plated sheet steel cap.

If this were removed during the course of disassembly/cleaning the crown's surface beneath the cap would have provided a good clue as to the original colour prior to weathering.

Did you record an image of this?

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There is a dark line on the downtube right where it enters the shell on the non-drive side.  Hope this be simply dirt or a scratch and not a crack.

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## sam (Dec 14, 2018)

Paint on these bikes is very thin. If you try and "bring back the shine" You'll take the color off. Clean it good with mild soap  & water. Then I'd try a past wax. The decals should be coated but again caution   is advised. Copal oil varnish should be used but you no longer can buy it


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## sam (Dec 14, 2018)

BTW all these bikes were painted black. Then the color was added on top so the black you see is the undercoat/ primer/bondersizer  what ever you want to call it


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## wrongway (Dec 17, 2018)

juvela said:


> -----
> 
> Fork crown appears to wear a partial chrome plated sheet steel cap.
> 
> ...



I was not able to get the crown off. I tried, but decided to pick my battles and not risk bending it. I did see under the shifter cable clamp the true color. Absolutely beautiful! Good eye....I'll check on that possible crack tonight.


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## juvela (Dec 17, 2018)

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Thanks for the response.

You did a thoroughly wonderful job with the bike.

Not attempting to suggest any changes.

One would need  a fork crown racer remover in their tool kit in order to access the cap.

Just a possible idea to advance the investigation...  

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## wrongway (Dec 18, 2018)

juvela said:


> -----
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> ...



Thank you! I am always curious when I get into a bike to see what the steer tube color looks like. I figure that is probably the true color. I was quite surprised when I got rid of a '59 Rudge (small frame) bike. I believe it was originally red, but had been sprayed blue. I salvaged the headbadge and under that was the shiniest, smoothest black paint I'd ever seen! Odd.
  Here is the best example of the orange I could find under the cable clamps.


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## juvela (Dec 18, 2018)

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Thanks so much.

On my monitor the colour looks as though it might be described as an orange-gold-copper flambouyant...but then am an oldtimer with imperfect vision.   

Member @sam 's post about all Rudges receiving a black under/base coast would explain mark seen down by bottom bracket shell.

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## sam (Dec 18, 2018)

I had forgotten I had this catalog---here's the color chart


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## juvela (Dec 18, 2018)

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Thanks so much for sharing this great resource!  

Greatly appreciated.

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## wrongway (Dec 18, 2018)

That's neat to see! I have looked at H Lloyd's and see that I can actually buy the decals and I could probably get close to the paint color, BUT don't worry as I don't plan on it. If you notice my bike does not have wing nuts or an AC hub. I read somewhere that means it's an export model. It has a 1951 S/A AW hub with chrome plated steel shell. I though that was wrong, but apparently not. It's fairly all stock except for the saddle and fenders. Mine is the 22" frame. I prefer the 23", but it's not too bad. The gearing is 46x17. Stock? Maybe. I took it on a brief trail ride and was able to max out at 18.9mph and averaged 13.9. Not bad for me!


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## sam (Dec 18, 2018)

does the S/A hub have a threaded driver or the three pin and lock ring?


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## wrongway (Dec 19, 2018)

sam said:


> does the S/A hub have a threaded driver or the three pin and lock ring?



It is threaded. I wanted to change it, but decided not to go to the trouble. The shell says it's a '51.


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## sam (Dec 19, 2018)

With the threaded hubs most fixed gear sprockets will work so you would be able to fine tune the gearing to your like. And as far back as the late 20s cyclo and others were also offering conversions for S/A hubs to allow a two speed range(6 gears)


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## wrongway (Dec 19, 2018)

sam said:


> With the threaded hubs most fixed gear sprockets will work so you would be able to fine tune the gearing to your like. And as far back as the late 20s cyclo and others were also offering conversions for S/A hubs to allow a two speed range(6 gears)



Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. I did have a 50's Cyclo Benelux on one of my other three speed bikes, but got tired of fooling with it and sold it.


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## juvela (Dec 19, 2018)

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note on chainset -

noticed that the cycle's Williams C34 set is fluted.   fluting was an extra cost option BITD.  at retail shop prices it was a few Shillings more than the plain unfluted version.  so bike received Williams top set of the day.  


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## juvela (Dec 20, 2018)

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do pre-TI Rudge products employ a 24 or a 26 T for steerer and shell?  would expect  24 but have no hard information.

unclear from photos if blades are d-section or oval.  since they are nominally Reynolds would expect oval but none of the images show them clearly eno'  to verify.

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## bulldog1935 (Dec 21, 2018)

Raleigh bought Rudge in '43 - everything about wrongway's lovely bike is Raleigh Lenton, including 26-tpi threading on headset and BB (even the catalog copy) - ok, and intentionally excepting the fork crown style.





note this drawing was aimed at USA, with bolt-on lamp bracket on the left fork blade.


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## juvela (Dec 21, 2018)

bulldog1935 said:


> Raleigh bought Rudge in '43 - everything about wrongway's lovely bike is Raleigh Lenton, including 26-tpi threading on headset and BB (even the catalog copy) - ok, and intentionally excepting the fork crown style.
> 
> View attachment 922679
> note this drawing was aimed at USA, with bolt-on lamp bracket on the left fork blade.




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Thank you!  

Information much appreciated.

As regards catalogue for U.S. market (lamp bracket) -

Doubt there were many U.S. riders wearing plusses at this epoch!

One might think they slipped up there.  

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## Goldenrod (Dec 21, 2018)

I bought a female in perfect shape.  She got a new one in 1953 and kept the old one that had just broken the shift cable.  I got both.  You know that the blank tube just above the front fender (on the above picture) is for a lock set?  The Limeys love those plastic fenders.  I have a set on my La Tour.


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## bulldog1935 (Dec 21, 2018)

juvela said:


> -----
> Thank you!
> Information much appreciated.
> 
> ...



you're of course welcome
two things happened postwar.  8th AF fliers came home with a newfound love for British Lightweights, along with a general Anglophilia.
(before WWII propaganda, we had a general apprehension for the Brits, and our navies even worked out strategies for war between us after WWI)

Struggling British economy was trying to export anything they could to the US (as they were in 1939-40)
Where I sourced that '48 catalog page, I'm pretty sure it came from an export to US catalog.
The catalogs that Sheldon and Kurt Kaminer have assembled online are all from export to US and Canada catalogs - if you compare them to British catalogs from '48 to now, they show marketing priority differences (and often model differences).
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/memorial-day-our-love-for-lightweights.111436/


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## juvela (Dec 22, 2018)

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for readers unfamiliar with term "plusses" -

it is short for plus fours which is brit english for what are called "knickers" in yank english.

however - "knickers" in brit english = "panties" in yank english.

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## bulldog1935 (Dec 22, 2018)

knickers are all I wear in the winter here (keep my knees warm), and call them pirate pants to everyone when I'm wearing them
MUSA, Garneau, and Karpos, so you were kinda wrong about that. 
If you google, you'd find many quality knickers made here for US cyclists.  Zoic, Asos, Patagonia, AeroTech, Novarra (REI)...
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/compass-knickers-2016/


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## juvela (Dec 22, 2018)

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my comment was about the period of the catalogue illustration.  

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