# Found Match for Radiant Red



## Chris (Feb 18, 2017)

After buying my radiant red Covette 5 Speed, I wanted to repaint it as close to original as possible. I bought some of the factory-matched aluminum color base coat from Hyper-Formance, but I was having a hard time finding a match for radiant red that I was satisfied with. 

I tried the Dupli-color Metalcast Red that has been mentioned on the forum, it was close but not an exact match (too red). I took my fork neck into the local Sherwinn Williams Automotive paint store, and after some testing, the store found a ready-made red tinted clear base coat (what they call a mid-coat) that looked close. I took it home and sprayed it over the aluminum base coat from Hyper-Formance. The results are below along with the paint info from Sherwinn Williams.

I would like thoughts on the match, think it is pretty close.


----------



## GTs58 (Feb 19, 2017)

After scrutinizing those pictures over and over, I'm betting that's as close to matching R. Red as you're going to get with today's paint. Keep us posted on your restoration!


----------



## WES PINCHOT (Feb 19, 2017)

LOOKS GOOD!


----------



## schwinnbikebobb (Feb 19, 2017)

Did you spray that with a gun or did they put it in spray cans?


----------



## Dale Alan (Feb 19, 2017)

I played around with your pic,adding light,shadows,etc . It seems to match very well through  my experiments,but my skills are very limited.  Here it is cropped with some fill light added.The dark bar between the two reds is the shadow.


----------



## GTs58 (Feb 19, 2017)

That sure helps Dale. Trying to compare the candy paint on a flat and a round surface is going to throw you off. I usually use a 1 1/2" piece of ABS pipe for my tests and then set it next to or slightly over the steertube for the taste test. That way the reflection and shadows on both pieces will be the same.
I still think Chris has a match.


----------



## Dale Alan (Feb 19, 2017)

GTs58 said:


> That sure helps Dale. Trying to compare the candy paint on a flat and a round surface is going to throw you off. I usually use a piece of 1 1/2" piece of ABS pipe for my tests and then set it next to or slightly over the steertube for the taste test. That way the reflection and shadows on both pieces will be the same.
> I still think Chris has a match.



I think it's a match too .Thanks for the great idea on using a piece of ABS for the test,I will surely be using your trick.


----------



## SHO2010 (Feb 19, 2017)

Looks pretty close would like to see the bike when you are finished. I did the same thing at my local auto paint store with my front fork from my 54 Opal Red Jaguar. After going thru a bunch of samples the counter man said if I wanted leave the fork for a couple days they would do a color match this is the estimate they gave me. I haven't decided what I am going to do yet but this a start.


----------



## Chris (Feb 19, 2017)

schwinnbikebobb said:


> Did you spray that with a gun or did they put it in spray cans?



I used what is called a Pre Valve sprayer sold at Sherwin Williams auto paint. The sample shown is two coats of the mid-coat Sherwin Williams red paint over two coats of the factory-matched aluminum base coat from Hyper-Formance. I'm having some put into spray cans at Sherwin Williams this week. I'll post pics of the Covette 5 speed with the aluminum base coat next, before I spray the red Sherwin Williams top coat.


----------



## GTs58 (Feb 19, 2017)

I don't know where you're at with the frame prepping, but I suggest taking measurements of all the decals for size and for the exact placement before stripping or blasting the frame. I've seen to many restorations where the decals are incorrect or out of scale and the placement is wrong. The 5 speed chain guard decals leave no room for error. The top tube shifter decal location is another one that many mess up. There are too many sellers on eBay that are selling bogus decals, especially the  fork darts, and I can spot a repaint a mile away with just those fat line fork dart decals. Having all these details will save you from a lot of headaches in the final stages.


----------



## SHO2010 (Feb 20, 2017)

I  take pictures of the decals with a ruler above or below then height. And then the ruler from different reference points to the edges of the decals. That way I have good reference points when it is time put the new one's on.


----------



## bikecrazy (Feb 20, 2017)

I have had great results with the Metalcast. I appreciate your quest for the perfect match and I give you props for going the distance to get the results you demand. There are ways to get the maximum results from the Metalcast product. The amount of coats and the use of different base coats, etc. Please understand that I am not criticizing your results in the least. I am looking at the cost of 2 spray cans vs $400. I am sure your final results are better then mine, but I am amazed at what a really nice paint job you can get from the Metalcast.


----------



## Duck (Feb 22, 2017)

Inherent monitor coloration discrepancies aside, that's closer than any other attempt at a match as I've ever seen- The thickness of a coat of any opaque paint will always be the wild card, though. Good work.


----------



## Chris (Sep 23, 2017)

Duck said:


> Inherent monitor coloration discrepancies aside, that's closer than any other attempt at a match as I've ever seen- The thickness of a coat of any opaque paint will always be the wild card, though. Good work.




I finally got around to painting the Corvette 5 speed, here is the result.


----------



## GTs58 (Sep 23, 2017)

You have my attention! Great match to the original steer tube! 

....



 Chris

Please send me a PM with the secret paint concoction.


----------



## Chris (Sep 23, 2017)

Chris said:


> I finally got around to painting the Corvette 5 speed, here is the result.
> 
> View attachment 681316
> 
> ...




I should note that this was done using a light gray 2k catalyzed primer, then factory matched aluminum base coat, the Sherwin Williams candy top coat, and finally the 2k catalyzed clear coat. 

I initially used a regular U-POL clear coat and it sat for a week, but when I clamped it in the Park Tool holder, the paint smeared. The U-POL can clear coat did not have the hardner. That's when I started all over and used the catalyzed primer and clear coat.


----------



## Cowboy in NC (Sep 24, 2017)

Chris said:


> I should note that this was done using a light gray 2k catalyzed primer, then factory matched aluminum base coat, the Sherwin Williams candy top coat, and finally the 2k catalyzed clear coat.
> 
> I initially used a regular U-POL clear coat and it sat for a week, but when I clamped it in the Park Tool holder, the paint smeared. The U-POL can clear coat did not have the hardner. That's when I started all over and used the catalyzed primer and clear coat.



Well Done!!! Your experimenting will benefit many others on the Forum... Thanks---Cowboy
Your efforts and documentation should translate to any of the Original Candy Colored Bikes of the 1950s and later. Good Post !!!


----------



## rennfaron (Jun 21, 2019)

Adding a note here - I am having good luck using testors stop light red for touchups on a '62 in radiant red. It is not completely opaque and has a metallic sheen to it, which I think helps it blend in some. Works best if the scratches are only down to the aluminum base and not down to steel (in which case I applied some aluminum base before the testors red).


----------



## bricycle (Jun 21, 2019)

Set, MATCH!


----------



## COOL50 (Aug 14, 2019)

nice match good job


----------



## Rivnut (Aug 14, 2019)

Probably a nicer job than the factory original.


----------

