# 1952 Jaguar Mark IV cable routing



## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

Found a decent, fairly original, 3-speed middleweight tank bike from my birth year. I must apologize, but I can't post pics right now, as the laptop's charger cable disintegrated a few days ago. AARGH! I'm going about recabling the bike, so I can ride it while running my tiny dogs. I neglected to open the tank prior to running the new shift cable. (I "fished" it through, using the old cable to pull, and route, both the new cable and housing.) MY QUESTION IS THIS ~ Where is the internal cable stop for abutting the shift cable's housing? I'm having some success using the horn assembly, sort of wedging the housing ferrule under & behind the actual horn unit. Beyond that point, where the cable is bare, I'm routing it over the top side of the heavy gague negative batter clip. This seems to be quite effective, and the new housing matches the old one's length, but if I install batteries this routing/stop method might not work so well. I can't imagine my make-shift method (no pun intended) matches the factory (or proper) one. ANOTHER QUICK INQUIRY ~ The inside of the tank is the only place I'm finding corrosion. It's not terrible, but I'm running out of elbow juice and fine steel wool. Is there a handy remedy for rust removal (from internal tank surfaces)? TANKS A MILLION ... (ouch)


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## schwinnderella (Mar 18, 2012)

Not a 1952 they did not make a jag MW in 52.


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## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

*Serial #B45426 and wheel info ...*

I'm certainly open to it being from some other year. (What a crummy time to be unable to post photos! All I can do is TEXT PHOTOS at this time.) Perhaps I've misused the term MIDDLEWEIGHT, or else there's an error in the vintage Schwinn serial number list that I used. I suspect the former b'cuz I checked a 2nd source, to verify, and found the exact same number range info. The tires are 26 x 1 3/4. The front hub has a cursive "Schwinn" etched in it, but I find no S-2 (or S-7) on the rims. REGARDLESS, my original cable routing question remains, and id still like internal-tank-rust-removal advice. DOES ANYONE CARE TO ALLOW ME TO SEND PHOTOS TO YOUR/THEIR PHONE?


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## redline1968 (Mar 18, 2012)

the cable goes through the tank out the back along the frame for the rear brake and shifter.


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## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

*What about housing length?*

The SHIFT CABLE arrangement I described in the opening post goes through the tank, but NOT "along the frame". MORE TO THE POINT ~ Where should the HOUSING END be positioned? To do its job, it needs to be held securely, BUT WHERE? I copied the old housing's length and FAILED to open the tank to check for this "positioning". MY CELL 623 221 4982 // I can TEXT someone a few photos of the tank's interior and my current routing setup. THANK YOU


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## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

*Okay. how about it's a 1956?*



schwinnderella said:


> Not a 1952 they did not make a jag MW in 52.[/QUOTE
> 
> I'll recheck the code lists. Looks like it also fits 1956. I guess that makes better sense, right?


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## Hiawathatc (Mar 18, 2012)

Do you have the fulcrum clip and sleeve? Maybe this picture will help.


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## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

*Eureka! Is your tech page from '56?*




Hiawathatc said:


> Do you have the fulcrum clip and sleeve? Maybe this picture will help.




Your picture is worth VOLUMES. Thank you. That is ABSENT. In modern jargon that sleeve is a cable "stop". My seat-tube-mounted shift cable roller/guide is heavily pitted, so if the fulcrum is made of similar metal (or even lighter gauge) it's somewhat likely that it deteriorated to a point where it was removed, or even lost, I suppose. Clearly it is GONE. ANY TIPS FOR CLEANING UP THE roller-guide?


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## Hiawathatc (Mar 18, 2012)

That page is from a 1959 Schwinn service guide. I believe they started routing the cable through the tank in 58. If you have a 56, then the three speed cable goes along the top over the tank. The pulley is then mounted just under the seat post clamp. The seat post clamp is mounted at the top of the seat post tube.  This picture shows the cables over the tank. I think you have a mark II (hard to know without a picture, so I can only guess). Mark IV was 59 - 62. Mark II was 56 - 58. A standard Sturmey Archer 3 speed cable clamp should be what you need for a mark II. I'm sorry, I don't know how to clean up your pulley. Maybe someone else knows and will provide an answer to that. If you have a mark IV then you need a mark IV clamp like in the second picture. Hope this helps.


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## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

*FOUR-reflector rack and chainguard indicate "IV"*

I'm getting that the code-year lists are NOT a bible, and at best are ambiguous. Hiawathat, your supportive sharing and spot-on info are helpful and VERY MUCH appreciated. At the moment, I'm going with Mark Iv based on the chainguard markings, and I'll let the manufacture date work itself out. BTW, my SA shift lever assembly is a tad more angular than the one in Hiawathat's photo, with on flat/straight side.  ENJOY ...


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## Buster1 (Mar 18, 2012)

Kram,

A couple points.

Look at this page: http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html

According to this (if your serial number is on the left rear dropout), you could have a '52, '53, or a '57.  Some of the Schwinn numbering systems from back then overlapped letters, causing us confusion today.  If it says Mark II on the chainguard, I'd probably believe that and agree with Hiawatha and that it's a 56-58...or in your case...a '57!  EDIT:  If your Chainguard says Mark IV, than the frame was (is still) a '57, but not built for a while and eventually built up as a '58 model at the factory.  Much like cars today that are built in 2010, but sold as a 2011 year model.

I am not positive on cable routing by year.  I just finished up (almost) my '59 Jaguar and it looks pretty much like the detailed schematic above.  Though my tank was NOS and that caused me to do some MAJOR grinding and sanding to clear the cable stop from the tank braces inside.  My shifter cable exits the stop right at the tank brace.  I had to move it a little and shave some metal off the brace to allow for clearance.  Check and see if you have a notch cut out of the right-side (underside) of the tank right half.  If it has one, and the tank is original, that points to a shifter cable being routed thru the tank to the pully on the seat tube (as in later models, late '50s models).  Let us know what you find.

As for rust cleanup.  0000 Steel or Brass wool and WD-40 works well, or better yet...lather the whole thing with Naval Jelly and wait an hour.  Rinse off with water and a rag and it will look new.

Nate


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## Buster1 (Mar 18, 2012)

Also, take a look at this thread   http://www.schwinnbikeforum.com/index.php?topic=14346.0   over on the Schwinn Forum.  There you'll see a discussion from Jim and I on Jaguar tank notches as I was prepping mine for chrome.

Good luck.


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## kram (Mar 18, 2012)

*Thanks Buster*

Buster1 ~ I like the naked look of your Jaguar, as pictured. Thanks for sort of capsulizing for me here. This bikes tank indeed is notched on the bottom-right with a pass-thru in the rear, pointing more toward the 57/58 scenario. I loath my current inability to post photos; surely wish I could attach them using my phone. Another Jaguar-related wish is for a straight replacement stem, as mine's slightly bent to one side, just a few degrees; enough so that it looks off-center in the top of the headset. I'd buy one on eBay, but I'm refusing to update my info on Paypal, as I suspect it's ALL about further invasion of user privacy. I walked away from Google recently for that same reason; at least Google was pretty overt about it.


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## kram (Mar 19, 2012)

*BRIEF ASSESSMENT of bike*

NEEDS :: stem/headlight/grips/rat trap

The stem's slight bend (mentioned earlier) is apparent only when inverting the bike and seeing that it isn't pefrectly level when upside-down. The headset rotates freely (I have yet to open, clean, and regrease it). The stem has moderate petina and sets in the top of the head tube / headset quite off-center. The b ars are undamaged and rust-free (as is 99% of this entire bike.)

This 1958 Mark IV has no grips at this time. The all black saddle has a molded-type "MESINGER" tag on its rear portion, and it is in great shape but for a bit of very minor splitting at its nose.the seatpost has no markings, as does the clamp nut.

Its fenders are straight, but for two creases on the rear, and I intend to use Naval Jelly on their (and the tank's) interior (and then spray with black Rustoleum.)

The wheels seem in nice shape, though ONE spoke is missing on the front. Front hub is marked (in cursive) "SCHWINN" and rear is Sturmey Archer. They spin fairly true and freely.

The crank's "four circle" chain ring is super clean, but its left arm has heavy petina on about 80% of its surface. Both pedals (BARELY WORN & PROBABLY NEWER) show the rectangular orange reflectors, and on their outer "tips" they have an inscribed logo of 4 hearts within a circle.

ACCESSORIES & MISC :: on the front, atop the headset, it has a bracket (sort of flared w/ a round hole), possibly for a headlight. The brakes, levers, and rack are all in very good condition, including all 4 of the rack's reflectors. The rear fender large reflector is in excellent shape (incl the ivory Bakelite.) I did find that the seat post clamp BOLT head is marked "AS".

The black frame appears very straight and undamaged with only minor paint nicks and no rust. The kickstand (and fender stays ~ slight corrosion) are also black. 

Overall I feel this could be a low-mileage bike with plenty of life "at the ready". Of course I'm regreasing and cleaning, in general. The SA hub operates fine, even without adding any 10 W 30. I intend to complete a fairly thorough "clean and tune" and find some Schwinn grips before assigning this ol' boy to almost daily "puppy running" duty, to exercise my 3 small Rat Terrier mix dogs...

THEN OFF INTO THE SUNSET WE ALL WILL GO ...


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## kram (Mar 19, 2012)

*OOPS ~ tank and chain guard (silly me!) ...*

The chain guard looks good with 90+% of its black paint and factory-applied model-ID markings intact. The chrome-like polished area below the black portion has moderate-to-heavy petina, but the front 1/2 of the rounded crank area is quite clean. No dents/dings are apparent, but its underside shows an even layer of surface rust. [Another candidate for Naval Jelly & flat black Rustoleum, I suppose.]  The tank's rigbt side is nearly free of black paint, while the left side's factory finish still covers 90% of the paid   "swoosh"-shaped area. The horn button still has a bit of red to it, and it has excellent spring action. I can't wait to try out the horn w/ a pair of D cells.


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## Schwinndemonium (Mar 19, 2012)

Thanks, Nate, for referring Kram to our thread.
But if he is not a signed in member over there, he cannot see my posted images that helped you out. Just thought I'd let you know.

Jim.


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## kram (Mar 19, 2012)

*registered last night at the Schwinn forum*



Schwinndemonium said:


> Thanks, Nate, for referring Kram to our thread.
> But if he is not a signed in member over there, he cannot see my posted images that helped you out. Just thought I'd let you know.
> 
> Jim.




Right you are, Jim. But after reading most of the thread's text, I did register last night. I hope to be able to view the related photos soon. (Still waiting for "approval" of membership, I guess.

I truly appreciate all of the kind support. After reading each thread and response, and after each maintenance/restoration procedure I perform, I feel more and more attached, bonded to my bike AND to  the vintage cycling community. 

OVERALL I AM EXTREMELY GRATIFIED. Thank you all


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## kram (Mar 21, 2012)

*Stem concern NOT a major ISSUE*

My earlier mention of the stem POSSIBLY being slightly crooked has fallen by the wayside. My earlier observation seems to have been errant. Beginner's luck !? I now simply write off such silly imperfections  to the technology of that era. 

Also, I'm realizing that I actually DO want to find a bike made in my birth year. This Jaguar is FABULOUS, but I'm not quite as keen on it as I once thought I might be. So I'm selling it locally on Craigslist. Someone will get a nice deal on a nice bike.


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## Buster1 (Mar 21, 2012)

Kram,

Where are you at and what are you asking for the Jag?  I'd love to see pics.

Nate


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## kram (Mar 21, 2012)

*In the Valley of the Sun*

Hiya Buster. I'm in the greater Phoenix area. I'm still without a pc, mac, or anything bigger than my phone. Luckily I can post photos (using my smart phone) on Craigslist, unlike here on The CABE. I can also text photos (used to be called "picture mail"). I'm starting to consider parting it out, as an option. PM me or call/text me. I listed my cell # in a post here in this thread. All the best ...


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## kram (Mar 22, 2012)

*if i sell it complete ...*

Maybe $460 - $480 shipped. Now bear in mind it needs a chain, has no grips or front rack, and it hasn't been ridden recently. Id consider shipping the wheels, rack, and fenders in a second shipping carton, to avoid double OVERsize penalty (at UPS/Fedex).


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## kram (Mar 24, 2012)

*Considering blasphemy ~*

I might swap wheels, taking these steel finish 3-speed for another project. Of I do, I could offer this Jaguar with white factory S-7 wheels, which include a coaster judge rear. I might also "steal" the Jags steel finish fenders. We'll see ...


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