# Strongest truss rods?



## 64 Pete (Jun 18, 2011)

I'm working on a late 40's J.C. Higgins conversion into a clunker MTB.
Since it's not a restoration I can use what parts I want.
In my limited  time with ballooner bikes I've noticed some of the truss rods seem more ornamental than structural. 
(one bolt at headset, no bracing at fork crown, curved truss rods, etc)
I read somewhere that if there is no brace in the middle of rod that the truss rods really aren't doing anything.
Anyone care to comment on what brand they think had the strongest set up? 

PS: If the moderator thinks this belongs in a different forum please feel free to move post.
Thanks
Pete


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## scrubbinrims (Jun 18, 2011)

Pete,
I think all truss rods are ornamental than for a structural purpose...unless they a part of a springer fork, but not sure if they are technically "truss rods" integrated this way.
Truss rods aren't really braced in particular fork crowns, they are just through the loop, no attachment.
In your search for the strongest truss rod for your JC Higgins, you are limited to buying a pair that came from a bike of the same headtube size.
The strongest truss rod in my opinion are the Schwinn type as the arch is not that curved and the one that I have both the rods and the headset assembly is beefy.
Chris


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## 64 Pete (Jun 19, 2011)

scrubbinrims said:


> Pete,
> I think all truss rods are ornamental than for a structural purpose...unless they a part of a springer fork, but not sure if they are technically "truss rods" integrated this way.
> Truss rods aren't really braced in particular fork crowns, they are just through the loop, no attachment.
> In your search for the strongest truss rod for your JC Higgins, you are limited to buying a pair that came from a bike of the same headtube size.
> ...




Chris,
        I'm not sure what to think about the truss rod braces  not being a solid connection.
Surely must be better than no brace?
My prewar TruSport has the kind of truss rod setup your referring to, I think.

http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/v/Petes-Pile/TruSport/TruSport_011.jpg.html

Looks good to me.
Simple enough to copy too.

Pete


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## sandmangts (Jul 11, 2011)

I just built my Schwinn DX up. I was thinking of leaving the truss rods off to save some weight so I tried it without them. I can tell you that the difference in stiffness in the front end is very noticable when braking. I have 2 Klunkers and the Schwinn setup is pretty stiff compared to my Mercury when I had the original fork on it. As you can see in the pics this is the setup with the rods bolted securely to the headset. Most other setups don't do anything. The best think to do though if you really want a stiff front end is to find a Tange fork and use it. I found a 1 inch Bomber that works for me.







Same bike setup with a Tange:



Or with the original fork, ride quality was very poor and not suitable for trail use, but it looked good!


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## Derek-on-the-go (Sep 5, 2011)

Nice klunkers sand, clean lefts in the background !


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## sam (Sep 9, 2011)

I think some prewar schwinns were a bit stronger than the later 50s type,the early ones had the brace weled to the crown and the bottom of the rods welded to the fork legs.
the strongest type I've ever dealt with were the Mead Ribbed forks.Unfortunely they are for 28" wheels.


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## rbgolf01 (Jan 4, 2015)

sandmangts said:


> I just built my Schwinn DX up. I was thinking of leaving the truss rods off to save some weight so I tried it without them. I can tell you that the difference in stiffness in the front end is very noticable when braking. I have 2 Klunkers and the Schwinn setup is pretty stiff compared to my Mercury when I had the original fork on it. As you can see in the pics this is the setup with the rods bolted securely to the headset. Most other setups don't do anything. The best think to do though if you really want a stiff front end is to find a Tange fork and use it. I found a 1 inch Bomber that works for me.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




so what are the cranks and bottom bracket on the black one ???? would love to get that setup for my klunker rebuild


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## GTs58 (Jan 4, 2015)

The design Schwinn used in the 30's and 40's was an actual truss design. If the rods are supported somewhere in the middle, (At the fork crown) then you have a truss. These did add extra strength and the later truss rod forks without that center attachment were more for decoration, although they do add some strength when coming down from a wheelie.


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## ChattyMatty (Jan 19, 2015)

However, bear in mind that that forks with the trusses are a forged head with tubular fork blades not forged blades all the way down. There is really gnarly pic out there (or in one of the vids on youtube) from the early Mt. Tam days of a pair of those folded back on themselves just below that 'strong' truss. If you guys say from experience that the ride is stiffer on the pre-war vs. post-war I defer to you you, but IMO the truss rods were 1/2 ornamental 1/2 safety- they were art-deco cool and also served the purpose of keeping the wheel from falling off if your axle nuts came loose like those little tabs did years later.


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