# 1952 Raleigh Sports found on Craigslist



## usarnie1

Hello all,

I recently purchased a 1952 Raleigh Sports that was advertised on Craigslist.  For a 66 year old bike, it was in very good condition!  The chrome is mostly rust free! And the black paint still has its' original lusture, aside from the many chips, scratches and small dings!

I needed to upgrade some of the parts to get it operational.  I replaced all the Cables, Cable Clamps, Sturmey Archer 3 speed Shifter Spring, Sturmey Archer Index Chain, 3 speed Cable Anchor, Brooks B66 Saddle, Hand Grips, Brake Shoes and Air Pump.

I need some help in locating and purchasing some of the missing parts on the enclosed Chain Guard.  It is missing the rear tail section and 2 screws, all 3 slider plates and the chrome clamp with its' backing plate and screws.  Any one out there who has any of these parts available, please contact me!


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## tryder

These bikes are awesome.  Built to last one hundred years and extremely fun to ride!
Beautiful saddle!
Sorry I don't have the parts.  Someone else here might.
If no luck, try ebay.  You might find what your bike needs there.


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## Wayne Adam

Cool Bike. I have about 10 Raleighs. I also bought a 1952 Raleigh on CL several years ago. This is the Superbe model with the rear Dyno-Hub.
Unfortunately, I don't have the guard parts you need. I plan on restoring this bike someday and I have a new B66 for it.
Good luck with yours, these were the best quality bike made. Wayne


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## sam

for what it's worth---Kiwi shoe polish is a good polish for these black bicycles.Really gives the old paint a shine when buffed off.


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## usarnie1

I found an original 1950 Dynohub on Craigslist, purchased it and re-spoked it back onto the original front rim of my 1952 Raleigh Sports.  I also added a 1910 Mckeelite drum headlight, modified with a 5 LED bulb.  Additionally, I upgraded the tires to a set of Schwalbe's.   I was able to purchase an original Raleigh chrome bracket, backing plate and 2 screws, to hold the rear of the fully enclosed chain guard to the frame, from a seller in the United Kingdom.  Later on, I will update this tread after I install the bracket.  I really like the way this bike is turning out!  However, I am still looking for the tail piece and 3 sliders for the chain guard.  Any one out their have any of these parts?


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## usarnie1

usarnie1 said:


> I found an original 1950 Sturmey Archer Dynohub on Craigslist, purchased it and re-spoked it back onto the original front rim of my 1952 Raleigh Sports.  I also added a 1910 Mckeelite drum headlight, modified with a 5 LED bulb.  Additionally, I upgraded the tires to a set of Schwalbe's.   I was able to purchase an original Raleigh bracket, backing plate and 2 screws, to hold the rear of the fully enclosed chain guard to the frame, from a seller in the United Kingdom.  Later on, I will update this tread after I install the bracket.  I really like the way this bike is turning out!  View attachment 759356
> View attachment 758101



I added the missing tail piece and sliders, that I recently purchased on e-bay.  Now my bike is complete!  However, I do like to add do dads to my bikes!


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## usarnie1

Below is a list of all the work that I was able to accomplish and attached are some close up photos of the individual parts that I used on my 1952 Raleigh 3 speed

1)   Replaced both caliper brakes with ones from a 1967 Raleigh (uses the later style cables, without the lead pear shaped ends)
2)   Replaced the original Brooks B66 saddle and seat post with a new B66 saddle, Brooks leather tool pouch and new seat post
3)   Replaced the tires with new Schwalbe tires
4)   Replaced the front axel with a Sturmey Archer 6 volt Dynohub and used stainless steel spokes laced to the Dynohub
5)   Added a 1910 Mckeelite Drum Headlight, modified with a 5 LED bulb
6)   Replaced the Raleigh Industries kickstand with a Sir Walter Raleigh logo kickstand
7)   Replaced the front fender chrome nose piece with a new chrome one
8)   Replaced the missing enclosed chainguard pieces with ones that I purchased from the United Kindgom on e-bay UK
9)   Added a digital speedometer
10) Replaced the brake and shifter cables
11) Replaced the Sturmey Archer index chain
12) Replaced the 3 speed cable's anchor adapter
13) Added a new chrome air pump
14) Added a water bottle and alloy bracket
15) Replaced all the brake shoes with new ones
16) Replaced generic plastic hand grips with Raleigh hand grips
17) Replaced all the cable clamps with stainless steel clamps
18) Replaced the spring in the Sturmey Archer shifter with a new spring

Next, I want to locate and purchase a 1950s English made Midland Sports rear carrying rack. That is the rack that was available as an accessory back in the day.  I enjoyed doing all the above upgrades and enjoy riding the bike!


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## bulldog1935

usarnie1 said:


> ...Next, I want to locate and purchase a 1950s English made Midland Sports rear carrying rack. That is the rack that was available as an accessory back in the day.  I enjoyed doing all the above upgrades and enjoy riding the bike!



You found a jewel, and can be proud of your work.

Essentially the same as the Midland rack you're looking for, I have the Coloral on my '57 Lenton GP - easy to find the Midland rack on ebay.uk, and airmail post this way is inexpensive.
how about this one? 
(same seller who supplied my Coloral)








I looked at this thing for a year, decided it would never go on my '74 International, even wondering if I had wasted my money.  But it found a perfect home on the Lenton.


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## HARPO

LOVE the enclosed chain guards on the Raleigh's. Really gives them that proper "British" look.


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## 3-speeder

Looking good. Love the kickstand. Nice touch. Gives it that "finished from the bottom to the top" look.


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## SirMike1983

It is possible to make new cables for the Raleigh-pattern calipers using a good cable knarp or by using a Bell Systems crimp tool on a tight-fitting spoke nipple to form a cable end.


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## Oilit

SirMike1983 said:


> It is possible to make new cables for the Raleigh-pattern calipers using a good cable knarp or by using a Bell Systems crimp tool on a tight-fitting spoke nipple to form a cable end.



Sounds like we need a thread on this, with pictures!


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## RidgeWalker

SirMike1983 said:


> It is possible to make new cables for the Raleigh-pattern calipers using a good cable knarp or by using a Bell Systems crimp tool on a tight-fitting spoke nipple to form a cable end.




What is a cable knarp?   
If you are careful you should be able to resolder the old cable end to a new cable. The solder should melt out of the pear shaped piece so you can free the old cable and solder in the new cable.  You want just enough heat to melt the solder but leave the shell.  I have done this but is has been some 20+ years ago.


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## bulldog1935

RidgeWalker said:


> What is a cable knarp?
> If you are careful you should be able to resolder the old cable end to a new cable. The solder should melt out of the pear shaped piece so you can free the old cable and solder in the new cable.  You want just enough heat to melt the solder but leave the shell.  I have done this but is has been some 20+ years ago.



here are cable knarps on a kayak rudder cable




and again on a bike brake cable



a smaller style using an allen set screw on this brake cable


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## SirMike1983

Good pictures - yes, a knarp is just a screw-on cable end that you can take on and off by tightening or loosening the set screw. There are many different types - they actually do sell some specifically for brake cables. They tend to work, but do not always fit inside the brake arm sleeve very well. 

Yes, soldering works fine if you are careful and do good surface prep. The can look very clean and very original if you get it right.

The nipple crimp method is where you use a Bell Systems Type D crimper tool (usually a few dollars on eBay, I think mine was like $15 shipped to me) to crimp a spoke nipple into place on the cable. Once you get the hang of this, you can get the crimp very tight and just as solid as a good knarp. The plus of the nipple crimp is that the spoke nipple will often fit into the brake arm sleeve well. 

The most important thing to remember is these cables are of fixed length. You need to get the length right for them to work well. Measure twice, crimp/solder/knarp once. 

I would not go back and undo everything if you've already put standard-style calipers on the bike. They work fine. But no need to throw away your Raleigh calipers if you want to use them later.


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## usarnie1

Next, I want to locate and purchase a 1950s English made Midland Sports rear carrying rack. That is the rack that was available as an accessory back in the day.  The Midland Sports Rack, shown in the below 2 photos of the side and top view, is currently mounted on my 1953 Hercules Tourist (Queen Elizebeth II Coronation Bike).


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## usarnie1

I located a Midland Rear Book Rack!  I had to purchase the whole bike, just to get the rack!  Fortunately, it was a local purchase.  I am picking everything up this Sunday, March 11th.  After I pick everything up, I will post a photo of my 1952 Raleigh with the Midland Book Rack installed on my bike.


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## SirMike1983

You'll have a keeper once you're done with it. It is difficult to find such an early mens tall frame Sports with this level of completeness in the U.S. today. Think twice if you ever get the impulse to sell it.


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## HARPO

Here's my 1972 Raleigh Sports. I'm never giving this one up either!


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## usarnie1

I love the hunt for these old bikes and parts!  To locate an original 1947 to 1953 Midland Sports rear carrying rack, I had to use all my skills as both a hunter and negotiator. Remember, the Midland Sports rear carrying rack pre-dates the more common Prestube Manor rear carrying rack.  I ran several wanted adds in both the USA and Europe, all to no avail.  Then I remembered an e-bay post that was over one year old, that had a bike with the rack that I wanted on it.  With e-bay's help, I was successful in contacting the seller.  The seller stated that he was not fortunate enough to have sold his bike on e-bay and that he still had it!  We did some negotiating and agreed on a fair price.  The seller lived 60 miles from my home and agreed to deliver the bike with its' rare Midland Sports rear carrying rack to my home.  I re-sprayed the rack black and mounted it to my all black 1952 Raleigh Sports bicycle.  I am very happy with the way my 1952 Raleigh Sports bicycle now looks!  Is my bike now finished? No, it is a work in progress!


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## HARPO

I've been bitten by the English Bike Bug lately...


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## RidgeWalker

Very shiny!


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## usarnie1

Perhaps I have over done it!  However, I added a set of 1980 Cannandale Panniers onto the 1950s Midland rear carrying rack on my 1952 Raleigh Sports 3 speed bicycle.  I had to modify the J hooks so the panniers would fit the slots on the Vintage Midland Rack.  Now I can take a nice day trip on my Raleigh and enjoy some of the back roads that go through the Santa Monica Mountains, that are near-by to where I live.  I can now bring a lunch, tools, some spare parts and a change of cloths with me.  I am all set to go!  Anyone nearby where I live care to join me?


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## RidgeWalker

http://www.3speedtour.com/


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## Eatontkd

usarnie1 said:


> Perhaps I have over done it!
> 
> Nope. Looks cool from here!


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## usarnie1

As I previously mentioned, "I do like to add do-dads!"  As you can see in my 3 attached photos, I added the Brooks Glenbrook carrying bag to my bike.   I think the bag is both functional and looks great!


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## SirMike1983

Those Suresta stands are frame killers if you tighten them down all the way - I've seen lots of 1950s-era bikes with crushed chainstays because someone used a Suresta stand and had to have it totally tight. They're good quality stands, but they need care when you mount them. A few strips of old rubber rim liner can act as a buffer for the stand jaws and chainstay.

Your project came out really well - good bike.


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## bulldog1935

I have the Brooks Millbrook saddlebag on my Lenton and it's just right for what I need to haul.  

The nice thing about Pletscher (Esge) is they make nice hardware to project your chainstays.  


 
I even used a drill and dremel to route my RD cable housing to a frame boss through the black plastic chainstay protector


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## usarnie1

Thanks SirMike,

I will remember to use your information if I ever use Suresta stands.  However, I am using Raleigh Industries/Sir Walter Raleigh Logo stands on the majority of my Raleigh bikes.  I added a 1950s Miller 598 Dynohub operated tail light to the back end of my period correct Midland rear book rack. I am very pleased how my bike turned out!  I enjoy the opportunity to show it off to anyone who is interested!  Therefore, I try to take it out for a ride about three times a week!  I am 76 years old and hope to enjoy this bike for many more years to come!

Even though my SA 3/4 speed shifter was in very good condition, I replaced it with a better looking 3/4 speed SA shifter.   Additionally, I purchased a new set of black hand grips, that has the large Raleigh R on the forward top of the grips. I am ancious to see if the new grips both look better and are more comfortable than the old set of grips!  Am I now finished? No, my bike is still a work in progress!  Currently, I am contemplating replacing the Raleigh relief rubber pedal blocks with a set of NOS Raleigh logo relief rubber pedal blocks that are available from Thailand.


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## HARPO

My 1952 Rudge...still working on it!!!


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## Eatontkd

HARPO said:


> My 1952 Rudge...still working on it!!!



VERY nice! A couple of questions though; did you paint the chainring black? What seat brand is that?
I have a '53 with a chainring that's got some chrome issues. I didn't think about just painting it. (Maybe I should go with red for Nick Cave's "Red Right Hand"!)


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## HARPO

Eatontkd said:


> VERY nice! A couple of questions though; did you paint the chainring black? What seat brand is that?
> I have a '53 with a chainring that's got some chrome issues. I didn't think about just painting it. (Maybe I should go with red for Nick Cave's "Red Right Hand"!)




The chain ring is original, a  blackout piece from during the war. Some other parts are also. Apparently they still had leftover stock and used up whatever they had still lying around the warehouse.
The saddle is a Brooks, original to the bike.


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## dweenk

I like the bike, but I have a question about the Dyno-Hub. Raleigh front hubs (non-dyno) only have a cone locknut on the left side. The right side cone screws on until it hits a stop - the motion of the wheel keeps it tight. Are Dyno-Hubs built the same way, or do they have cone locknuts on both sides?


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## Lars Cohn

Picked this 67 Superbe up from ebay a few years ago and brought it back from the dead. Love the old Raleighs.


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## Lars Cohn

bulldog1935 said:


> I have the Brooks Millbrook saddlebag on my Lenton and it's just right for what I need to haul.
> 
> The nice thing about Pletscher (Esge) is they make nice hardware to project your chainstays.
> View attachment 776246
> I even used a drill and dremel to route my RD cable housing to a frame boss through the black plastic chainstay protector
> View attachment 776247



I stay far away from the type of stands. I've seen dozens of otherwise perfect frames with crushed stays. Bad design IMO. I think Schwinn had the right idea with the built in stands.


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## bulldog1935

obviously didn't look at the details of my post - it's simply a question of using the correct contact-stress-reducing hardware available from Pletscher (Esge) and filtering your 17mm wrench through your brain.
This setup on my Lenton is rock solid.  The way I did it, it's noteworthy that overtightening will bind the derailleur cable before it will bend the chainstay.  The reason it's rock-solid is I used a zip-tie behind it to keep the stand from sliding the way I didn't want it to go. 





it's also noteworthy that the Raleigh International with its delicate round chainstays didn't give you the option - they intentionally placed the chainstay bridge too far forward to allow an Esge stand to be mounted - also duplicated on many road frames, including my Moser (built by DeRosa).




There are still ways to do it if you want a stand, this one happens to be my Alt favorite, in use on both my Moser and International
https://www.amazon.com/Upstanding-Bicycle-Company-Commuter-Upstand/dp/B075RGTR4N




I use the same Esge stand on my Viner Pro CX, though this one is limit-tightened so it gradually slips with use - every hundred uses or so, have to rotate the bottom half including the folded stand out of the crank arm path. Every now and then, may decide to take the wrench to snug it, but never torque it to the point of damaging the chainstays. Haven't used the zip-tie here, but it hasn't been enough annoyance to warrant it. 
In addition to the plastic saddles on top of the chainstays, I also gorilla-glue 3/8" closed-cell foam to the bottom stand piece to help the whole situation.



from thorusa website  http://www.thorusa.com/accessories/pletscher.htm
Deluxe top plate
Attention : We now deliver the double kickstand WITH this top plate ! Buy only if you want to upgrade an older version!
Two plastic sleeves protect the chainstays, comes with top plate and longer bolt, fits most steel frames and alloy frames with smaller than usual chainstays. Prevents kickstand from sliding away if your bike doesnt have a kickstand plate. The picture is a beautiful Surly. ( Thanks Alan )

DELUXE TOP PLATE



$6.00


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## vincev

I love the English bikes with the rod brakes even though they dont stop very well.This was pulled from a dumpster ! Its in mint condition and even had all the paperwork in the bag behind the seat.......


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## Lars Cohn

vincev said:


> I love the English bikes with the rod brakes even though they dont stop very well.This was pulled from a dumpster ! Its in mint condition and even had all the paperwork in the bag behind the seat.......View attachment 826537 View attachment 826536
> 
> View attachment 826538



Beautiful. Hard to believe someone would trash such a well crafted bike. Something my dad would do. Never tried the rod brakes but they look great


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## vincev

Lars Cohn said:


> Beautiful. Hard to believe someone would trash such a well crafted bike. Something my dad would do. Never tried the rod brakes but they look great



Thanks,I could not believe when the old guy died his family threw everything in the garage into a dumpster.


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## Lars Cohn

vincev said:


> Thanks,I could not believe when the old guy died his family threw everything in the garage into a dumpster.



That sort of thing happens too often unfortunately. I'd bet the man that passed would be glad to see his Raleigh found a good home.


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## Lars Cohn

bulldog1935 said:


> obviously didn't look at the details of my post - it's simply a question of using the correct contact-stress-reducing hardware available from Pletscher (Esge) and filtering your 17mm wrench through your brain.
> This setup on my Lenton is rock solid.  The way I did it, it's noteworthy that overtightening will bind the derailleur cable before it will bend the chainstay.  The reason it's rock-solid is I used a zip-tie behind it to keep the stand from sliding the way I didn't want it to go.
> 
> View attachment 826483
> 
> it's also noteworthy that the Raleigh International with its delicate round chainstays didn't give you the option - they intentionally placed the chainstay bridge too far forward to allow an Esge stand to be mounted - also duplicated on many road frames, including my Moser (built by DeRosa).
> View attachment 826484
> 
> There are still ways to do it if you want a stand, this one happens to be my Alt favorite, in use on both my Moser and International
> https://www.amazon.com/Upstanding-Bicycle-Company-Commuter-Upstand/dp/B075RGTR4N
> View attachment 826485
> 
> I use the same Esge stand on my Viner Pro CX, though this one is limit-tightened so it gradually slips with use - every hundred uses or so, have to rotate the bottom half including the folded stand out of the crank arm path. Every now and then, may decide to take the wrench to snug it, but never torque it to the point of damaging the chainstays. Haven't used the zip-tie here, but it hasn't been enough annoyance to warrant it.
> In addition to the plastic saddles on top of the chainstays, I also gorilla-glue 3/8" close-cell foam to the bottom stand piece to help the whole situation.
> View attachment 826503
> from thorusa website  http://www.thorusa.com/accessories/pletscher.htm
> Deluxe top plate
> Attention : We now deliver the double kickstand WITH this top plate ! Buy only if you want to upgrade an older version!
> Two plastic sleeves protect the chainstays, comes with top plate and longer bolt, fits most steel frames and alloy frames with smaller than usual chainstays. Prevents kickstand from sliding away if your bike doesnt have a kickstand plate. The picture is a beautiful Surly. ( Thanks Alan )
> 
> DELUXE TOP PLATE
> View attachment 826502
> $6.00



Hmm....I may need to look into these (maybe). I must say, it's a hard sell because I've seen so many fantastic frames with crushed stays due those evil bolt on stands.


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## bulldog1935

by numb minds with big wrenches - the stands didn't do it.


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## bikemonkey

dweenk said:


> I like the bike, but I have a question about the Dyno-Hub. Raleigh front hubs (non-dyno) only have a cone locknut on the left side. The right side cone screws on until it hits a stop - the motion of the wheel keeps it tight. Are Dyno-Hubs built the same way, or do they have cone locknuts on both sides?



Yes - they have the same design of right hand cone locked against axle stop and adj. cone/locknut on left.


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## Lars Cohn

bikemonkey said:


> Yes - they have the same design of right hand cone locked against axle stop and adj. cone/locknut on left.



Sturmey Archer uploaded service manuals to their Heritage site going back to 1901. I used it to overhaul my Dyno Hub. Your hub is likely in there too?
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/index.php?page=history&type=technic


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