# Schwinn Deluxe Middleweight Saddle -- Request Disassembly Advice



## Slowpoke Rodriguez (Nov 24, 2018)

Hey all,

I'm in the final stage of refurbishing a black 1967 Schwinn Panther.  The seat appears to be a Deluxe Middleweight with a white nose a white "S" on the black cover, black painted beehive springs, no rivets, no crashrail, and lots of rust on the metal.   I've tried removing the support bars and springs without removing the cover, but the tight cover and maybe the connection of the support bars to  the nose area seems to prevent that.  I'm concerned that I'll tear or permanently stretch the cover if I just try to pry or otherwise brute it off. 








Do any of you have any helpful hints or suggestions for disassembly?  My plan is to treat the metal with Evaporust and re-paint, but also to evaluate the condition of the padding  between the frame and seat cover before reassembly.


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## anders1 (Nov 24, 2018)

Just a thought, but you might let the saddle heat up in the sun and then begin stretching the cover gently at one of the rear corners. ???


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## anders1 (Nov 24, 2018)

Welcome to the CABE!!!


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## Slowpoke Rodriguez (Nov 24, 2018)

anders1 said:


> Just a thought, but you might let the saddle heat up in the sun and then begin stretching the cover gently at one of the rear corners. ???



Yeah, that was the thought I had just before I decided to write this knowledgeable forum.   I just couldn't convince myself that I wasn't about to make a serious mistake.  Maybe I'll learn that is the best next step and there is nothing to be concerned about.  And thanks for the welcome!


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## anders1 (Nov 24, 2018)

Well I would say it is definitely risky, and I know nothing about these seats. However, if there is no obvious way to take it apart then it may be the only way. Maybe someone will come along soon who has done this before. Good luck!!


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## Pantmaker (Nov 24, 2018)

If you are going to treat the metal bits as part of your cleanup, soaking the seat in hot water makes the cover much more pliable. Slips right off.

Pants


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## Mr. Monkeyarms (Nov 25, 2018)

Like anders1 said. That seat cover is in really good shape and it would be nice to keep it that way. I have removed them and put them back on many times and it's pretty easy. Make sure it nice and warm by placing in the sun or heat with a hair dryer. Get it as warm as you can comfortably handle. This will make it pliable and give it some stretch. This may also be easier if mounted to a post either on a bike or in a vise. Start by firmly pushing the cover and pad underneath toward one corner. Kind of like when you remove the air from a waterbed. Use the heal of your hands alternately to push the cover to the corner until you can reach the bottom edge of the side and back of the cover and grip firmly. Gently pull and roll the bottom edge of the seat cover over the corner of the seat pan. Then the other corner will slip off. Then pull off the nose of the seat. 
It will take some effort. A Pedro's Milk lever may come in handy as well. Those covers are pretty tough and you will have to give it a bit of man handling to get it off and back on but it's pretty easy. Just make sure to heat the cover as warm as you can to make it easier. And make sure to push the nose of the seat as far on to the pan as possible to give you a bit more room. Give the cover a couple whacks with the heal of your hand to bottom the cover out against the pan at the nose. 

Have fun!


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## fattyre (Nov 25, 2018)

Great suggestions here.    I've had good results with boiling water.  Mr. Monkey arms has the right removal technique.  

I've taken them apart to find foam pads that are nearly disintegrated and I've had covers start to stretch too much and begin to slowly tear.  Most times I've been successful, but not always.

Also remember that that top material is close to 50 yers old and not as playable as it once was.  Especially if it has spent any amount of time sitting in the sun.


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## Rivnut (Nov 25, 2018)

I have a fairly nice seat that would be really nice if it didn't have a rip in it where it fits over the tab on the bottom on the back of the seat.  Anyway of repairing that rip?

Thanks,
Ed


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## Slowpoke Rodriguez (Nov 25, 2018)

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions and support!  I was concerned about the hot water technique mainly because I wasn't certain about the condition of the padding.  I thought if it's friable in the least, the water might weaken it and then I'll tear it up for sure if I have to fight much with the cover.  

So I got out the Wagner heat gun (1200W) and set it to low (supposedly 750F output).  I pretty much followed Mr Monkeyarms instructions (thanks for the detail!) and it only took about 1 min time to make the cover pliable enough to get it off the corner.  The other corner and the nose followed quickly.  I was pleasantly surprised by the good condition of both sides of the padding.  Here are top and bottom photos:






The metal parts are in a bath of Evaporust as I write this.  Much obliged for your time and contributions!


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## GTs58 (Nov 25, 2018)

Looks like the old waffle carpet pad. Mesinger used the rebond carpet pad later on. Are you going to reuse that?


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## Slowpoke Rodriguez (Nov 25, 2018)

GTs58 said:


> Looks like the old waffle carpet pad. Mesinger used the rebond carpet pad later on. Are you going to reuse that?



It seems to be in very good shape, so I planned to reuse it.  Is the Mesinger pad a better way to go, in general?


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## GTs58 (Nov 25, 2018)

The rebond padding is definitely better than the waffle type padding. The waffle is a blistered type and the rebond is full padding. it comes in different # ratings. This is the 10# version. Waffle pad is pretty much useless IMO.


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