# Pre-1910 Iver Johnson



## Otis in Mayberry (Mar 25, 2018)

Hello! I’m new here and need some advice. I recently acquired my first vintage bicycle, a pre-1910 Iver Johnson in totally rusty condition. It spent many decades in my neighbor’s leaky garage. I’m dating it based on the Iver Johnson thread here on the Cabe that uses serial numbers. Looks like 180203. The bicycle appears to be all original and solid, and the pedals crank easily. Spokes are rusty but seem strong. There is no brake, coaster or otherwise. The front tire is missing the tube. 26” tires. Believe it or not, the bell actually rings, in a rusty sort of way. The handlebar grip are wood.

I guess my question is, what do I do? Is it ok to wire brush it?

I’d appreciate any and all advice. Thanks!


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## ivrjhnsn (Mar 25, 2018)

Do nothing to it.. If that rolls, it's cool ..  The rims are not original, rear hub may be. But tires will be easy to find. Some type of rusty bolt solution is in order. Just spray it down.
 Nice !


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## DonChristie (Mar 25, 2018)

Cool bike! Grease the bearings, bath her in wd40 and ride it!


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## eddie_bravo (Mar 25, 2018)

That’s a rider 
Agreed with updating the wheels and a new chain 

WD40 the frame and ride it ,  rust and all!


Eddie Bravo 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mickeyc (Mar 25, 2018)

WOW....that is CRUSTY!!!!


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## John D. Williams (Mar 26, 2018)

Hi. I've seen this bike up close and have some questions. The rear hub is a fixie; is this stock? The tires are clinchers. I am guessing the original rims were wood and the tires were glue-on, but the wheels warped and newer ones were re-laced to the hubs. The owner is inquiring about tires; where would these be found? They say 26 x 1 3/8.

Would it be proper to wirebrush this bike, heavily except for the spokes, and then lube it to ride? I am concerned with the spoke strength.


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## catfish (Mar 26, 2018)

Make sure your tetanus shot is up to date!


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## Rambler (Mar 26, 2018)

A couple issues you may need to address if you hope to put this bike back on the road. Appears that sprocket is rubbing the frame which could mean issues with crank bearings, cups, or cones, and there also appears that there may be a crack in the chain stay.


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## John D. Williams (Mar 26, 2018)

Rambler said:


> A couple issues you may need to address if you hope to put this bike back on the road. Appears that sprocket is rubbing the frame which could mean issues with crank bearings, cups, or cones, and there also appears that there may be a crack in the chain stay.
> 
> View attachment 777315



Thank you; I will look closely.


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## dnc1 (Mar 26, 2018)

Even if that is a crack, it's easily repairable.
I would rub down with wire wool and WD40, get new tyres, sort out the bearings and ride it; as far and as fast as you dare!
Enjoy!


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## bricycle (Mar 26, 2018)

Hi Otis! -Welcome to our group!
as crusty as the two reflectors may seem, they are probably worth some decent bread.
If you wana ride her, find a pr of 28" Raleigh wheels for her, or a pr of 700 series wheels/tires. Or of $$ not an object a pair of Noah Stutzman wood wheels.


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## Otis in Mayberry (Mar 26, 2018)

Hi All,
Thank you for taking the time to look at the many photos and your advice about the IJ. I’m not sure if that’s a crack, but if it is it is very tight and not deep, which I guess is good. Please see the additional pictures. 
My friend John Williams (who posted above) and I will look it over better. I’m ignorant as to most of this stuff but have learned a lot from John and just reading through different threads here. 

What about using the current rims, even though not original? What tires would I need? Would the spokes be strong enough?


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## willswares1220 (Mar 26, 2018)

That's the well patinated or shabby chic look~~~


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## John D. Williams (Mar 31, 2018)

Hi everyone. I have taken apart this IJ. There is no frame crack and the crank is not rubbing as it turns out. The serial number is 150268, I have found some info on this on CABE. The owner thinks 1905. Any opinions? It is cleaning up well. I need to know what kind of tires to buy, will any 26 x 1 3/8 non-Schwinn tires fit these rims? And I may have some upcoming questions about taking apart the crank....


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## Duchess (Mar 31, 2018)

Maybe I'm not seeing it right, but the chainring teeth look really worn to me as far as riding goes. The serial number on mine that I peg at around 1912 is 195xxx however that might help.


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## John D. Williams (Apr 3, 2018)

The chainring looks okay up close; we will test the bike carefully (I am 145 pounds, Frank's over 200). It's a fixie with no auxiliary brake, so it has to be ridden carefully. I did a nuts and bolts cleaning, and am putting it back together. The rear tire is really on there, and I'm not able to budge it with any kind of lever

 ... pics attached so far--


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## Duchess (Apr 3, 2018)

The teeth on the chainring should look like flat top pyramids in profile, so if it's to be ridden for appreciable distances, you'll probably want to get another chainring. Cleaning up really nice, though! Does the rear tire hold air?


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## John D. Williams (Apr 4, 2018)

Duchess said:


> The teeth on the chainring should look like flat top pyramids in profile, so if it's to be ridden for appreciable distances, you'll probably want to get another chainring. Cleaning up really nice, though! Does the rear tire hold air?






Duchess said:


> The teeth on the chainring should look like flat top pyramids in profile, so if it's to be ridden for appreciable distances, you'll probably want to get another chainring. Cleaning up really nice, though! Does the rear tire hold air?



Yes the tire holds air. It will not come off the rim, and we want to replace both tires with white period-looking ones. Not sure what to do.


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## Duchess (Apr 4, 2018)

I'm not sure how to remove it without destroying it. May be the only way if it's metal bead clincher and the rubber deteriorated, leaving the bead to rust to the rim. There may be a better product than I can think of, but if you can get a good liquid penetrant, spray around where the tire and rim joins, leave it overnight (maybe hitting it another time or two), then get some sturdy picks or whatever can get in there to work the rubber and metal off. This method worked pretty well on rubber engine hoses in a marine environment, so maybe it would help here.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Apr 4, 2018)

John D. Williams said:


> The chainring looks okay up close; we will test the bike carefully (I am 145 pounds, Frank's over 200). It's a fixie with no auxiliary brake, so it has to be ridden carefully. I did a nuts and bolts cleaning, and am putting it back together. The rear tire is really on there, and I'm not able to budge it with any kind of leverView attachment 782388 ... pics attached so far--
> 
> View attachment 782389
> 
> ...




You can use a snowflake chainring, too


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## John D. Williams (Apr 4, 2018)

Thanks again for comments, we are considering everything. Anyone here going to Copake?


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## Handyman (Apr 4, 2018)

John D. Williams said:


> Thanks again for comments, we are considering everything. Anyone here going to Copake?




I'm going......................bringing 3 Ivers to sell and some misc. parts.  Pete in Fitchburg


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## John D. Williams (Apr 5, 2018)

Handyman said:


> I'm going......................bringing 3 Ivers to sell and some misc. parts.  Pete in Fitchburg



Hi Pete; I saw your online collection, nice!! I will try to find you at Copake. John


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## John D. Williams (Apr 24, 2018)

Here is the latest. I had a nice ride on it around our Belmont Lake State Park, felt like I was back in time.


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## John D. Williams (Apr 24, 2018)

And another view-- I know it's an amateur resto, but I could not leave it as is. Now it's back on the road.


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