# Spoke replacement help needed.



## drglinski (Dec 12, 2021)

I'm looking to replace the spokes on my DeLuxe Typhoon as they are old and keep snapping due to my fat a$$.  I'm unsure what to buy (I don't have a LBS that I trust to go to) as far as length and how to determine gauge.  I have no problems rebuilding wheels/truing them but I always seem to get the length wrong. Rear wheel is the 26" S7 wheel laced into a Bendix Automatic and the front is the 26" S7 with the standard Schwinn approved hub.  I'd like to get some stainless ones that are shinier than the OG ones I have currently.  How can I figure out which ones exactly do I need to buy? What should I look for? Who is a recommended online seller?

Thanks


----------



## GTs58 (Dec 12, 2021)

This person had a bike shop figure and make spokes for his application and after he laced the wheel the spokes were to long. He finally got the job done with another set and here's what he said.


----------



## drglinski (Dec 27, 2021)

I have a nice set of used spokes that I discovered after about 2 hours is too long for cross 3 and too short for cross 4.  🤬. This is for the rear wheel.  Since there are millions for sale how do I know which to get? Looking for stainless preferably, also what about gauge? How do I determine that? Thanks


----------



## PapaPengin (Dec 27, 2021)

I know the frustration. I own a fancy DT Swiss chart and ERD measuring tools that are incorrect a good part of the time. Here's a link to Park Tools tutorial. Hopefully it will help you. Others may have better info. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/determining-spoke-length-for-wheel-building
Mike


----------



## Andrew Gorman (Dec 27, 2021)

The method of measurement laid out in this book has never failed me.  And it has a LOT of information on building any kind of wheel  Well worth the investment!





						Wheelbuilding book for cycle wheels 7th Edition
					

The Professional Guide to Wheel Building, by Roger Musson. A complete guide to building and repairing wheels with over 90 color photos and CAD drawings.




					www.wheelpro.co.uk
				



Cheapest source for DT stainless spokes I've found is various eBay sellers.  Butted spokes are much harder to find or seem to be.


----------



## J-wagon (Dec 27, 2021)

drglinski said:


> I have no problems rebuilding wheels/truing them but I always seem to get the length wrong



For length I measure from spoke elbow bend to where spoke contacts rim. Or can remove spoke from wheel / hub to measure. With a metric tape measure on drive and nondriveside. Depending on your wheel setup the drive / nondrive can be different lengths or same length. Generally ok if long by 1 or 2mm (but not short). Done this many times without issues. 

14g is 2mm. I measure at the ends b/c some spokes are thinner in middle like 14g at both ends and 15g middle (2mm/1.8 mm/2mm). High gauge number = thinner. Lower gauge number = thicker. If you go for thicker make sure your hub holes can accommodate.


----------



## drglinski (Dec 27, 2021)

Thanks guys.   I pulled one from the rear and one from the front and am going to take it to my LBS tomorrow and see what they have.


----------



## bloo (Dec 27, 2021)

10-11/16" for the front and 10-5/16" for the rear. Thats what I found in my 61 Speedster with the same rims and hubs you mention. Cross 3 pattern.


----------



## drglinski (Dec 28, 2021)

Took the spokes to a local bike shop (it's busy in December in Michigan.... surprised they were even open) to match what they had.   30 min and 72 bucks later (that seemed high) I have spokes and nipples for two wheels (doing front and rear).    After an hour I got the wheel laced.  Still have to rebuild the hub before I put it in a stand and get it trued up 100%.  It's in front of my 74 Sprint that's on the trainer for winter.


----------



## PapaPengin (Dec 28, 2021)

Glad they were able to help you get the correct parts. $1 per spoke seems to be the going rate. Looks great so far!


----------



## SirMike1983 (Dec 29, 2021)

If you got good spokes (Sapim, DT Swiss, etc.), $1.00 per spoke is the going rate these days, if you're just buying enough for a wheel or two. A bike shop might do better with a bulk order, but for the home builder, $1.00 is pretty much on-target for a good stainless spoke (not including spoke nipples - those would be extra). It's on the high side if you're buying no-name spokes or "OEM grade" spokes (the cheaper ones are sometimes called that - it's because big box store bikes use them, don't be fooled). It's also high if you're buying 1970s-80s era grey galvanized spokes (though I have to believe that sort of thing is on the way out now).


----------



## drglinski (Feb 6, 2022)

Wheel rebuilds completed.  Both hubs rebuilt and rear has all new bearings.  I'll have to wait till spring to see how well it performs.


----------



## GTs58 (Feb 6, 2022)

Nice looking and clean wheel sets!  👍


----------



## Rivnut (Feb 7, 2022)

S7s laced with 3 cross, were originally fitted with 10-19/32“ but they’re difficult to find so 10-5/8” is only 1/32” off.


----------



## drglinski (Feb 9, 2022)

We had a dry enough of a road today to try it out a bit.  Didn't hear anything out of the ordinary and it rolled well.   Was rubbing the fender in the rear but that was because I didn't have the wheel centered in the wheel stays.   Adjusted that and it's good to go.


----------



## The Spokemaster (Mar 13, 2022)

How to measure spokes ….​
Measure spokes properly as follows ----- with the ZERO MARK of a straight ruler touching the INSIDE of the elbow ( bend ) -then measure along the ENTIRE length of the spoke all the way to the opposite end. This is the ONLY way in which bicycle spokes are measured –there is NO ‘alternate’ or ‘different’ way.

Replacement SCHWINN spokes bought from the factory in Chicago ( 37 years ago ) ....all lengths ....Torrington double butted ....etc.

SCHWINN did NOT use stainless spokes on their bicycles -not even the top-of-the-line Paramount

Let us know what you require = misterbshakey595@gmail.com


----------



## drglinski (Mar 21, 2022)

Took it for my first good ride today.  Pulled like a SOB to the right, worse at low speeds.  Notice this is the side that has the drive hub for the speedo.   Someone educate me on this please; I centered the wheel in the axle when I built it and didn't dish it for the drive hub. Also it was centered in the fork but because of the speedo the right side was out further than the left.   I removed the speedo hub and she rode just fine.   So do I need to dish the wheel to account for the speedo? Or did Schwinn do it originally another way? I don't remember the original wheel being dished (before I rebuilt them) and it rode just fine.  

Thanks


----------



## bloo (Mar 21, 2022)

If that thing normally goes inbetween the axle and the fork you will have to compensate for it somehow, either by dishing or by spacers. You are somewhat limited by what the over locknut distance comes out to. Those Ashtabula forks are more flexible than most but there's a limit. My guess is you will have to do it by dishing.


----------



## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Mar 22, 2022)

drglinski said:


> Took it for my first good ride today.  Pulled like a SOB to the right, worse at low speeds.  Notice this is the side that has the drive hub for the speedo.   Someone educate me on this please; I centered the wheel in the axle when I built it and didn't dish it for the drive hub. Also it was centered in the fork but because of the speedo the right side was out further than the left.   I removed the speedo hub and she rode just fine.   So do I need to dish the wheel to account for the speedo? Or did Schwinn do it originally another way? I don't remember the original wheel being dished (before I rebuilt them) and it rode just fine.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ...



No dishing required. You need to move the axle over so there is room to mount the speedo drive on the outside of the rim against the spokes. It all fits between the forks.


----------



## drglinski (Mar 22, 2022)

coasterbrakejunkie1969 said:


> No dishing required. You need to move the axle over so there is room to mount the speedo drive on the outside of the rim against the spokes. It all fits between the forks.



Thanks! I revisited it and I think I just didn't have the axle in the forks far enough.


----------

