# Long spring seat



## Ernest Varney (Feb 17, 2020)

Im looking for tips to redo my seat but it looks like theres only one pan so im confused on how to do this, also does anyone know where to get parts for these types of seats?


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## Balloonoob (Feb 20, 2020)

Check out this thread from the Tinker.  https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/re-cover-a-saddle-quick-cheap.92195/page-3. It's a fun and helpful read. It's much easier with a dual pan saddle but In Post 45 @Miq covered a single pan long spring. Covering all or the majority of the bottom with leather as clean as possible yielded pretty good results. The post below it shows my re-cover..... In hindsight I should have used a bit more padding for added comfort.       The techniques in this thread obviously won't yield a restoration quality result (there are a couple really good saddle restoration guys on the cabe) but they will make it look nicer and get it quite usable.


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## Balloonoob (Feb 20, 2020)

Not sure what parts you need... Maybe post in the wanted section with what you are looking for. I would put penetrating oil on every nut and bolt before taking it apart as to not break or strip anything. Good luck!


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Thanks buddy, havent got the seat yet but ya im gonna use penetrating oil and let it sit a day or two the take it apart and do wat i gotta do im hoping to make it look nice the single pan is intimidating as all hell but ill give it a go, again thanks


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## Balloonoob (Feb 20, 2020)

Cool good luck man. It's actually kinda fun!


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Ya im gonna give a good shot thanks


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## Miq (Feb 20, 2020)

Ernest,

Keep in mind it doesn't look all that good until you finish gluing and clamping all the top leather.  Don't get discouraged, it takes some effort.   It helps if you have a plan on how you are going to fold and trim the leather to get a smooth surface before you open the contact cement bottle.   

You have to clean the rust and get all the pieces as nice as possible before you cover it.  I bet it will clean up well and be great on a ratty bike.

This wire frame version has the frame rod formed around the vertical spring posts, blended in with a continuous helical spring, separating it into the top and bottom spring sections.  There is a bolt and nut in other versions that allows you to disassemble the 4 separate springs from the frame.  So many versions of long spring saddles...


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Why wats missing


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## Miq (Feb 20, 2020)

Hi Ernest, 

I edited my post while you were reading it.    

I don't think anything is missing, but the U shaped spring post should be riding under the humps in the seat frame.  The zip ties are not needed to hold the posts.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Got it ill have to buy some


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## STRADALITE (Feb 20, 2020)

It sure looks like a girls seat. Hopefully that’s what you wanted.


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## Miq (Feb 20, 2020)

Ernest I don't think there is anything you can buy to convert it.  The saddle you are showing does not have a frame to accept a bolt and the separate springs you usually see on long spring saddles.  The frame arms are weaved into the long helical springs when you assemble the pieces.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

English please im a newbie


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## Miq (Feb 20, 2020)

(Troxel 1911)
Usually there's 36 and 37 holding two different springs (33 and 34) to a frame (20).

The saddle you are showing has a bent rod frame for 20, weaved into a single long spring.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

So can i straighten it to make it normal  to do wat i have to


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## Miq (Feb 20, 2020)

I think you should try to get what you have working as it is designed.  It looks totally functional.  I am trying to point out that the springs may be harder to find than the more common seat designs, if you ever need to replace them.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Do u have replacements ? How much if u do?


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## Miq (Feb 20, 2020)

I've never seen a saddle with this design before Ernest.  Maybe other CABE members are more familiar with it.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Ok thanks


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## TonyD (Feb 20, 2020)

It reminds me of an old Brooks I had. 3 strands and twisted spring wire. Not like a hairpin, way fancier. 
The clamp was like a standard old type with the plate on either side with three grooves that the wire frame was pinched in. 


TonyD


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 20, 2020)

Ya i dont know i just know i wanna make it look nice on my 51 panther


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## The Carolina Rambler (Feb 20, 2020)

Hello!  I figured I might would add to this conversation.  I did a restoration about a year ago, and as part of the restoration, I had to recover a 1920s- 30s long spring seat.   I did it all by hand, and it took around 15 hours or so I believe.  Here is a link to my post, and about mid way down, you can see the photos of the seat I did.  Granted, its not as good probably as a professional upholsterer can do, but it looks decent, and has held up for the past 100 miles of riding or so, without any problem.  Comfortable too, and the only real cost in restoring it was about $20 worth of leather plus my time.  All hand stitched from scratch, and done in the original style.  Hope this helps, and I can provide additional detail and information later once I get off work.  Thank you.









						1935 Colson Rover- Fully Restored Before & After | General Discussion About Old Bicycles
					

Hello everybody, this is something I have been wanting to complete, and show ya'll for a long time, and I have finally finished it.  This is my "new" 1935 Colson Rover, Balloon Tire Bicycle.  My favorite things and time period in history is perhaps the 1920s and 30s, and I really wanted a nice...




					thecabe.com


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## the tinker (Feb 20, 2020)

The frame on this seat was much worse than yours. I'm surprised any of these frames remain, as the spring steel wire support didn't work that well. It easily fatigued with use and broke or bent, if the rider was too heavy. This frame was bent, badly rusted and the top rails were broke on both sides. I straightened them out and cut a couple 2 inch sections of steel automotive brake line and slipped them over the broken sections. I did this a while ago .



 I think I applied some J. B. Weld inside the brake line before I slipped them on the  broken frame wires.[ No CABER can live without that stuff] I've ridden this bike plenty since then and it's held up nice. Look closely on the second photo and you can see the slightly thicker section on the top wire. It starts at the seat clamp bolt and ends where a chip of the black paint is missing, just above where the lucky seven curves. Your saddle will look nice. Welcome to the hobby.
 My wife painted the seat-frame . Here's a picture of her, in her riding clothes.


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## Balloonoob (Feb 21, 2020)

the tinker said:


> View attachment 1143226
> 
> View attachment 1143227
> 
> ...



Nice fix! Turned out great and looks strong.


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## piercer_99 (Feb 21, 2020)

I believe it is a teens era Troxel, similar to the one on my 1918 Pierce,  you can look through @Miq s saddle resto step by step to see how, we did them very similarly.


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## piercer_99 (Feb 21, 2020)

Ernest Varney said:


> Do u have replacements ? How much if u do?



if you are looking for parts for this saddle, try @patmcclerren2 he has a stash of long spring parts and may have what you need.

also, where @Miq mentioned not needing the zip ties, there are actually small clamps, that wrap around the main spring brace and clamp to the bolts on the saddle, above where the spring frame bolts at the rear of the saddle.    I will try to get a photo of what they look like from my saddle.


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## piercer_99 (Feb 21, 2020)

here they are, circled in red with arrows pointing them out.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 21, 2020)

Yes thats exactly wat ill need plus the springs as well cuz the originals are bent all up i think


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## Miq (Feb 21, 2020)

I thought that at first too, but did you see the big arches in the frame where it probably goes?


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 21, 2020)

I dont know wat you mean i guess i need to know if this thing is worth the 95 bucks with all the problems im facing making it useable


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## Miq (Feb 21, 2020)

$95 should get you a much better saddle than that in my opinion.  I've never seen one like that, so I don't know how collectible it is, but that doesn't seem like something you care about.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 21, 2020)

Ya i care about it i just like the look of the longspring seat but im thinking its not a good deal now that all the coments are coming in


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 21, 2020)

Do u know anyone with a better seat for that money


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## Balloonoob (Feb 21, 2020)

Wow - stem included https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/prewar-seat.164928/

I like the look and sturdiness of this one *








						Reduced - long spring saddle
					

saddle measures 11 inches x 8 inches very good condition  125.00 plus shipping




					thecabe.com
				




Spend a little more and get less headache https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/prewar-troxel-long-spring-saddle.163305/*

Looks like you are just North of Boston. There's gotta be some killer swaps in your area. Look here:  https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/w...suggestions-please.142790/page-3#post-1005176

Lots of Cabers over there too. Igrinnings for one. Handyman too.
Some folks have nice stuff they might get rid of not listed in the for sale section.


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## STRADALITE (Feb 24, 2020)

Ernest Varney said:


> I dont know wat you mean i guess i need to know if this thing is worth the 95 bucks with all the problems im facing making it useable




Not worth $95. 
The springs aren’t correct for the main chassis rails among other issues. 
And as I mentioned it looks like a girls seat.


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## Ernest Varney (Feb 24, 2020)

Cool thanks i picked one up for 90 i just gotta cover it and pad it and im all setbut thank you


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## Archie Sturmer (Feb 26, 2020)

The 1-piece springs look fairly unique, which make for a challenging special project; might not be best material match for a 1951 Panther.


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