# Boiled linseed oil?



## Lance Vangraham (Nov 7, 2017)

How many folks have uses boiled linseed oil on thier projects? Pros and cons? Thinking of trying it on my b6 when it's done. Thanks!


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## Boris (Nov 7, 2017)

Looks too wet. Is too wet. Used rags are extremely flammable. Why not just use an automotive paste wax?


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## GTs58 (Nov 7, 2017)

Weekend before last I did the planks on my car hauler. Great stuff and the price is right. 
Here's a Patina'd truck that was done with Linseed oil. And the discussion. >>>> https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/linseed-oil-over-patina.711515/


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## 2jakes (Nov 7, 2017)

Lance Vangraham said:


> How many folks have uses boiled linseed oil on thier projects? Pros and cons? Thinking of trying it on my b6 when it's done. Thanks!




At an antique auto show,(‘20s Fords) a guy
had repainted his “tin-Lizzie” using combination of kerosene, with enamel
using a sable brush. I’ve read that
before spray paint~guns, this was common
practice with some auto factories. But I
cannot say for sure if this is true.

The paint job on the tin-Lizzie was very well
done. But it was a slow procress. He applied
one coat enamel and with rags & kerosene,
he sanded as needed before applying another
coat of enamel.
Bear in mind that these methods were done
in a time when abestos was also used on walls and ceilings at home. Obviously, not too safe!

In the  past, I have used linseed oil,
wood stain, vinegar & brass to create rust
and also a faux patina.
Mostly on project frames and so far, no
problem. Mostly in a ventilated area away from people and pets with safety gear when handling toxic material.

My original bikes I simply dust off and lubricate as needed.


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## Freqman1 (Nov 8, 2017)

I'm with Boris on this one. If its fairly crusty I go with Johnson's Paste Wax but if still a lot of paint a good automotive wax. V/r Shawn


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## Lance Vangraham (Nov 8, 2017)

Normally I do use wax, but had read about the linseed oil. The paint is in good shape on the bike, just wanna add some shine to it.


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## Andrew Gorman (Nov 8, 2017)

If the paint is in good shape, try some automotive rubbing compound to bring back the shine.  Just be careful around pinstripes and decals.


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## Freqman1 (Nov 8, 2017)

You need to be careful with rubbing compound on secondary colors which were generally shot pretty thin. May want to try a polishing compound first to see if you get the desired results and finish with a good wax. Linseed oil just makes it look greasy in my opinion and could stain clothing as well. V/r Shawn


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## Handyman (Nov 8, 2017)

Thinking of trying this boiled linseed oil.  How long, with one application, will boiled linseed oil keep its shine (as greasy as it might look) on a bicycle??  Does it have to be re-applied often?  
Thanks, Pete in Fitchburg


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## then8j (Nov 8, 2017)

Linseed oil is the main base to oil based paints. It's a slow dry oil, kerosine is a thinner similar to mineral spirits but slower drying. I use all of this in my work of decorative painting. 

What I was taught by an old timer to control the sheen of oil base paints is to add.....corn starch. You can control from high gloss (none added) to matte (a lot added) 
I would suggest to add some Japan dryer to help it set (dry) because it might take a couple days to dry and collect dust. 
Basically your making clear cheap thin oil based paint that yellows in the sunlight.


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## SKIDKINGSVBC (Nov 8, 2017)

My uncle Jim was a vintage body and fender guy from the 40's .Said the best way to paint a car and get the best finish was a combination of gasoline and lacquer paint ... Would leave a perfect shine ...Dangerous practice ...But seems like the gas from the past not only smelled good but didn't leave a bad taste like the gas of today...


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## Kato (Nov 8, 2017)

Boris said:


> Looks too wet. Is too wet. Used rags are extremely flammable. Why not just use an automotive paste wax?




*Very good point Boris - Yes it is extremely flammable and can spontaneously combust on it's own !!!!!*

I used it on one of my bikes a couple months back and put the rag I'd used in a plastic measuring cup on the garage floor on some cardboard and walked out back to do some other stuff.
I came back up front about a half hour later and smelled something - something burning smell - couldn't figure out what it was.
I looked on the floor and the measuring cup had tilted over so I went and picked it up.........BAD CHOICE........burnt my hand !!!
That damn rag had gotten so hot it melted the cup and was smoldering - just a matter of time before it ignited.

I work in an industry that uses solvents and rags all the time and we put the rags in rag cans all the time and I have seen a rag fire flash.
In my 30+ years I have never seen anything combust that fast - not even close.
I'm sure glad I didn't throw the rag in a garbage can - that could have been a huge issue.

**** As far as using  the boiled linseed I still use it - I think it works great.
       I wipe it on sorta heavy, let it sit and then come back and wipe it back off.
       After sitting for a while the bike soaks some in - enough that I think it's the perfect look on top of any patina the bike has.


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## NoControl (Nov 17, 2017)

Kato said:


> *Very good point Boris - Yes it is extremely flammable and can spontaneously combust on it's own !!!!!*
> 
> I used it on one of my bikes a couple months back and put the rag I'd used in a plastic measuring cup on the garage floor on some cardboard and walked out back to do some other stuff.
> I came back up front about a half hour later and smelled something - something burning smell - couldn't figure out what it was.
> ...




I'm knocking on wood right now, but I'm also quite careful about any rags with acetone, mineral spirits, BLO, or anything else thats flammable. If I use a rag with any of this stuff, I always take it outside and drape it over my rock wall to dry out. If it oily, I throw it in the fire pit. I NEVER keep a greasy or oily rag inside the shop. NEVER.

As far as using boiled linseed oil on bikes, well each to his own. I use it occasionally when the paint is poor enough to not respond to my car wax. I've also used Butchers paste wax with good results.


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## Andrew Gorman (Nov 17, 2017)

It takes a LONG time to cure without adding Japan  drier.  Kato has the right approach.  A long time ago (pre internet) I had an M1951 parka that was an ideal field coat, but not waterproof.  So one winter when I had a lot more time than money I reseached how waterproof clothing was made before plastics.  And one way was boiled linseed oil.  So I soaked it in boiled linseed oil, stashed it in the furnace room and waited for it to dry.  That was about 3 months later, but it was a great field coat.  Waterproof, wind proof, huge comfy pockets and in cold weather it could stand up by itself- got a little stiff as the temperature dropped.  Co-workers called it the "Monk of Doom Coat"


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## David Larson (Dec 28, 2017)

I think one common misconception about boiled linseed oil is that it stays "oily". In a dry climate [here in North Dakota in the winter time], a thin coa t of BLO applied with a rag will dry to the touch in about 2 days.

If you don't like the "wet" finish, then you can lightly buff the surface with a rag and/or your hands when the BLO is about half dry. 

I like BLO over was on patina'd bikes because BLO tends to hides pits and paint chips, whereas was tends to show off the same features [when dry].

Lastly, I think BLO and paste was should be considered equally, but for different purposes. BLO is a gentle sealer - wax is a rubbing compound.


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## Talewinds (Dec 28, 2017)

Interesting thread. I've only ever used it on M1 Garand stocks. Didn't even know you could apply it over metal.


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## Boris (Dec 28, 2017)

David Larson said:


> I think one common misconception about boiled linseed oil is that it stays "oily". In a dry climate [here in North Dakota in the winter time], a thin coa t of BLO applied with a rag will dry to the touch in about 2 days.
> 
> If you don't like the "wet" finish, then you can lightly buff the surface with a rag and/or your hands when the BLO is about half dry.
> 
> ...




Perhaps I'll give BLO another try, and knock off the wet look as you suggest. Although I'm still nervous about used BLO rag disposal. I do like paste wax, but don't like the white specks that show up in the tiny pits when dry.


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## David Larson (Dec 28, 2017)

Boris said:


> Perhaps I'll give BLO another try, and knock off the wet look as you suggest. Although I'm still nervous about used BLO rag disposal. I do like paste wax, but don't like the white specks that show up in the tiny pits when dry.




I went for a "satin" finish on the BLO with this bike. Not matte, but also not dripping wet. A little finesse and timing does wonders. I'll be posting a thread in the near future about the before and after process that this bike underwent... lots and lots of resurrection work here...

BLO was just the cherry on top at the end of the journey - it really made things pop though. I included one picture of the bike "before" I did work to it. I bought it here on the CABE a month or so ago


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## NoControl (Dec 28, 2017)

Talewinds said:


> Interesting thread. I've only ever used it on M1 Garand stocks. Didn't even know you could apply it over metal.




I have a friend who is very passionate about old vises (not vices) and old anvils. When he rebuilds an old vise, he'll coat it with BLO and bake it at 200F for HOURS in his smoker outside. This relieves all of the stresses of the vise and after that he'll paint and polish it. They are truly fabulous when he is done.


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## GTs58 (Dec 28, 2017)

If you know what you are doing the results IMO are worth the effort for a crusty original paint bike. There are truck loads of how to videos and information on the net from people that don't know what the f they are doing, to the experts and everyone in between. Nice job Mr. Larson


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## David Larson (Dec 28, 2017)

GTs58 said:


> If you know what you are doing the results IMO are worth the effort for a crusty original paint bike. There are truck loads of how to videos and information on the net from people that don't know what the f they are doing, to the experts and everyone in between. Nice job Mr. Larson




Thank You!

I actually filmed the entire process of disassembly, oxidation removal, detailing, and re-assembly. As soon as I get the rear rack and headlight lens in, I will finish the video and it will be on my YouTube channel. I will be doing this for a number of bikes in the coming months. I also included a short section about safely disassembling and cleaning that original prewar/wartime speedometer!

I'll be posting about these videos in the near future!


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## stezell (Dec 28, 2017)

SKIDKINGSVBC said:


> My uncle Jim was a vintage body and fender guy from the 40's .Said the best way to paint a car and get the best finish was a combination of gasoline and lacquer paint ... Would leave a perfect shine ...Dangerous practice ...But seems like the gas from the past not only smelled good but didn't leave a bad taste like the gas of today...



Gasoline from the past also evaporated a lot quicker.


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## Muleman121 (Jan 12, 2018)

David Larson said:


> Thank You!
> 
> I actually filmed the entire process of disassembly, oxidation removal, detailing, and re-assembly. As soon as I get the rear rack and headlight lens in, I will finish the video and it will be on my YouTube channel. I will be doing this for a number of bikes in the coming months. I also included a short section about safely disassembling and cleaning that original prewar/wartime speedometer!
> 
> I'll be posting about these videos in the near future!




Very cool! Can’t wait! Have much to learn. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Muleman121 (Jan 12, 2018)

What’s IMO?


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## tryder (Jan 12, 2018)

Muleman121 said:


> What’s IMO?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



In My Opinion


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## Muleman121 (Jan 12, 2018)

tryder said:


> In My Opinion




Geez 


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## Shawn Michael (Jan 13, 2018)

I have used boiled linseed oil on a couple of bikes with good results. The rags are very flammable and I just dispose if them by burning them outside.


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## OhioJones (Jan 4, 2019)

Wanting to try BTO err BLO on one bike. Also, use a wax or paste (?) on another. See which I prefer. Can anyone offer a suggestion for a brand or a particular automotive product as far as the waste pax paste wax is concerned?


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jan 4, 2019)

I use linseed oil, cut 1-1 of lacquer thinner. It cleans and preserves. Try a small section, under the bottom bracket, for testing.....


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## TieDye (Jan 4, 2019)

Boris said:


> Looks too wet. Is too wet. Used rags are extremely flammable. Why not just use an automotive paste wax?



Automotive paste wax, even the best, does not prevent it from rerusting. I did a few bikes that way and I need to do them all over with the linseed oil.  They are rusting on all the metal parts. Stuff I did with linseed oil still looks like the day I did them.


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## SKPC (Jan 4, 2019)

I use boiled Flaxseed oil all the time for most everything I want to seal from the elements.  On old painted bikes, or exposed metals, it seems a perfect sealer. A natural product, non-toxic, and it has been an Oil-based paint additive for years. I have never had LS-wiped down rags catch fire...Hmmmm. 
When I use it on old paint,  I put it on thick and wet to ensure good seal-age, then with old clean rags and paper towels, wipe away all evidence of it.
Keep wiping it down as it dries for less glossy look.  It'l dry in a few days via oxygen/air exposure.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jan 4, 2019)

Sun-drying the linseed soaked rags will prevent fires.


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## Keith D (Sep 8, 2019)

I.m going to use the BLO sealing option for my bike as the weather here can make things rust in the workshop, even if I dont use the thing.

I have a few questions though, I see you have to re-apply the oil occasionally, do you have to strip off the old oil first or just apply over the top? 
Secondly, I left some BLO out in a plastic cup and see that its gone fairly hard, If you do have to strip it off it looks to be a fairly hard process as the hardened oil didnt readily 
mix with turpentine or most other thinners, Only cellulose thinners worked and that wasnt particularly quick. Any thoughts on this please?

Thanks for looking


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## GTs58 (Sep 8, 2019)

Keith D said:


> I.m going to use the BLO sealing option for my bike as the weather here can make things rust in the workshop, even if I dont use the thing.
> 
> I have a few questions though, I see you have to re-apply the oil occasionally, do you have to strip off the old oil first or just apply over the top?
> Secondly, I left some BLO out in a plastic cup and see that its gone fairly hard, If you do have to strip it off it looks to be a fairly hard process as the hardened oil didnt readily
> ...




If you use the linseed oil on exterior wood then yes you need to re-apply. On a bike frame I'd say no, you don't need to re-apply unless the bike was yard art being exposed for years outside. I had a 1 gallon can of this blow open from the Arizona heat and leak out all over the concrete floor. When I noticed it maybe years later there was a super hard pile of a resin type mess that I couldn't even chisel off the concrete. Once it's on it does not evaporate like an oil, it's more like a coating of resin so if the bike is stored out of the elements I would think it will last for a very long time.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Sep 8, 2019)

I like to blend melted bees wax, lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. You can use an inexpensive single unit conduction cooktop. Open flame is unsafe for flammables.
I used gallons of this on painted metal parts and wood, for many years, in my business.


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## NoControl (Sep 8, 2019)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> I like to blend melted bees wax, lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. You can use an inexpensive single unit conduction cooktop. Open flame is unsafe for flammables.
> I used gallons of this on painted metal parts and wood, for many years, in my business.




How hot did you need to get the mixture, Giovanni? Just enough to melt the beeswax?


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## GTs58 (Sep 8, 2019)

NoControl said:


> How hot did you need to get the mixture, Giovanni? Just enough to melt the beeswax?





I would like to know what the reason is to add bees wax to linseed oil for a paint/metal protectant. Maybe for waterproofing a canvas tent maybe?


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Sep 8, 2019)

NoControl said:


> How hot did you need to get the mixture, Giovanni? Just enough to melt the beeswax?



120 degrees


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Sep 8, 2019)

GTs58 said:


> I would like to know what the reason is to add bees wax to linseed oil for a paint/metal protectant. Maybe for waterproofing a canvas tent maybe?




You can cut down on the amount of boiled linseed oil, with the bees wax and reduce the shiny look.


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## NoControl (Sep 10, 2019)

How well does tung oil work?


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## Boris (Dec 5, 2019)

David Larson said:


> Thank You!
> 
> I actually filmed the entire process of disassembly, oxidation removal, detailing, and re-assembly. As soon as I get the rear rack and headlight lens in, I will finish the video and it will be on my YouTube channel. I will be doing this for a number of bikes in the coming months. I also included a short section about safely disassembling and cleaning that original prewar/wartime speedometer!
> 
> I'll be posting about these videos in the near future!




As we approach the distant future , I was wondering if you posted your videos, and if so do you have a link to them?


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## Boris (Dec 5, 2019)

Over time will the BLO yellow on your bike as it does around the spout of the can?


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## GTs58 (Dec 5, 2019)

Boris said:


> Over time will the BLO yellow on your bike as it does around the spout of the can?




If you pour it on and let it sit for a few months it might. The gallon can I had blow up in storage left a pile on the concrete that turned to a reddish brown tough resin that I couldn't even chisel off the floor.


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## Legislator (May 3, 2020)

Boiled Linseed Oil is my go to for spoke threads when building a wheel, and it's food grade analog flaxseed oil is how I season cast iron pans for cooking.  During wheelbuilding the BLO acts a lubricant, then over time as it dries it acts as a threadlocker of sorts, but is perfect because it isn't so tacky that you can't turn the nipples later.

This thread has lots of awesome info about an amazing and ancient natural oil!  Thanks everyone for sharing, and thank you to the Earth for providing!


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## PLERR (Nov 30, 2020)

I've just been introduced to the idea of using BLO to coat metal and have been been doing some online research to learn more. So at this point I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous. 

I like the idea of it in the right circumstance. Personally, I don't like the wet look, but I really do like the satin look. Seems like that comes down to technique. And I like how it offers a similar protection to wax but won't fill in the the patina topography with white residue the way waxes and polishes can.

Though I am concerned about yellowing over time, especially for a bike that's ridden frequently and regularly exposed to sunlight, it sounds like it can be removed and reapplied without too much trouble if that were to happen. Anyone out there have a BLO coated bike that has seen a lot of time outside? I've also read the finish can be marred by water. Any experience with that?

Here's something of interest I found along the way (emphasis added) :

Linseed products on the market today are sold as “Boiled Linseed Oil” or “Purified Linseed Oil”. Originally linseed oil was boiled in a vacuum to remove molecules of oxygen and breakdown its food components, principally fatty acids. This process accomplished a few things: it enhanced drying time; reduced stickiness; and it helped reduce the tendency of the oil to turn rancid.​​Today the term boiled linseed oil is in many cases is a slight misnomer and in other cases a total misnomer. Most BLO products sold today as boiled linseed oil are no longer boiled but are instead enhanced with chemicals that decrease drying time, thin the oil to a workable state and impair rancidity. Because of this boiled linseed oil is no longer a green product nor is it classified as a food-safe product.​​There is a new system (actually a very old process re-introduced) of refining raw linseed oil. The product is most frequently labeled “Purified Linseed Oil”. Producers of PLO have reverted back to simply boiling the oil in modern pressurized cooking pots and market it without chemical additives. Purified linseed oil is green and food-safe.​
I think it's worth mentioning for those who have an interest in being as green as practicable (myself included) and for those who mentioned using BLO on cookware. It would also be great to hear from anyone having experience using both.

All offered up as fodder for conversation, not as the final word on anything.


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## the tinker (Nov 30, 2020)

Works great on wooden ladders that see outdoor service.


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## GTs58 (Nov 30, 2020)

So today they are not boiling the oil and then labeling the product as boiled? Makes total sense with the way things are today right? And it seems right on par with the pharmaceuticals and caffeine made today, in China.
I've been using old stuff, really old. Nowhere on the cans does it mention exactly what the hell it is other than boiled. When did this not boiled boiled linseed oil come to be? And how can they get away with that labeling?
Here's one of the NOS quart cans I have. It has not been opened and it has to be 15-20 years old or more. I had a two car garage full of paint and paint products after the little lady shut down her painting business.


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## Andrew Gorman (Nov 30, 2020)

Usually linseed oil with japan driers added.  US labels and SDS' can't really be trusted about what is in there and where it is from (yay, corporate masters!).  Find an EU label for slightly better information.


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## PLERR (Nov 30, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> So today they are not boiling the oil and then labeling the product as boiled? Makes total sense with the way things are today right? And it seems right on par with the pharmaceuticals and caffeine made today, in China.
> I've been using old stuff, really old. Nowhere on the cans does it mention exactly what the hell it is other than boiled. When did this not boiled boiled linseed oil come to be? And how can they get away with that labeling?
> Here's one of the NOS quart cans I have. It has not been opened and it has to be 15-20 years old or more. I had a two car garage full of paint and paint products after the little lady shut down her painting business.
> 
> View attachment 1309942



With that screw on cap and no metric labeling I'll bet it's older than 15-20 years. Does the can have a bar code? That's a keeper. And it says "pure."


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## bloo (Nov 30, 2020)

I think "boiled" meaning "not boiled but full of driers" goes back 50 years or more. Am I wrong?


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## GTs58 (Nov 30, 2020)

bloo said:


> I think "boiled" meaning "not boiled but full of driers" goes back 50 years or more. Am I wrong?




Probably not that far back. Maybe the late 80's early 90's? when all the paint was being changed with the unwanted help of the EPA.



PLERR said:


> With that screw on cap and no metric labeling I'll bet it's older than 15-20 years. Does the can have a bar code? That's a keeper. And it says "pure."




Bar code? Haha! I just did the math. When you get old time flies and it even gets harder to remember time. That can was from at least the early to mid 80's.

I had a half used gallon can of real boiled linseed oil in my shed and when I moving out of that house I noticed that the can was empty. Half a gallon drained out all over the concrete and was cured over many years. I tried like heck to clean up that mess but wasn't very successful. It was in a clump that was stuck to the slab and a 1-1/2" wood chisel and 28 oz hammer could not remove it. It was hard but not brittle, somewhat resin like and similar to maybe an old car tire. The papers to the house were signed so I said the heck with it and left it.  lol


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## ricobike (Dec 1, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> I had a half used gallon can of real boiled linseed oil in my shed and when I moving out of that house I noticed that the can was empty. Half a gallon drained out all over the concrete and was cured over many years. I tried like heck to clean up that mess but wasn't very successful. It was in a clump that was stuck to the slab and a 1-1/2" wood chisel and 28 oz hammer could not remove it. It was hard but not brittle, somewhat resin like and similar to maybe an old car tire. The papers to the house were signed so I said the heck with it and left it.  lol



I bought a older metal file cabinet that I really wanted that had BLO spilled all over it and it had dried on solid as a rock.  Man that stuff was hard to get off, but I managed to do it without ruining the paint on the file cabinet.  I think it was soaking it with a lot of lacquer thinner as I remember it.  Tough stuff when it's on thick like that.


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## Archie Sturmer (Dec 1, 2020)

I recall a product called triple-boiled linseed oil; (not that cheap double boiled stuff).


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## the tinker (Dec 1, 2020)

I recall my dad mixing it with white lead, making caulk.  I kick myself for tossing out the old gun he used. It was a closed metal tube that looked like the caulking guns of today, but you filled it yourself and cleaned it out afterwards. Kind of like a grease gun. Never seen another one like it.  I've used  boiled linseed oil on wood ladders back in the 70's. It's a cheap preservative.


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## Boris (Dec 1, 2020)

I recall a product called Uncle Clem's boiled hayseed oil. They never did find that nephew of his.


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## PLERR (Dec 1, 2020)

I recall Central Park in fall...


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## vincev (Dec 3, 2020)

My grandfather used to drive a Kaiser .He wiped it down every Saturday with a kerosene.It shined like it was just waxed and only took about 10 minutes.lol Never tried it on a bike


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## the tinker (Dec 3, 2020)

My grandfather drove a Rollscanhardly. It would easily roll down one hill, but can hardly make it up the next. He also drank kerosene.


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## juanitasmith13 (Dec 13, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> Probably not that far back. Maybe the late 80's early 90's? when all the paint was being changed with the unwanted help of the EPA.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



GTs58... Will it sand-blast to bare metal if one decides later to paint?


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## GTs58 (Dec 13, 2020)

juanitasmith13 said:


> GTs58... Will it sand-blast to bare metal if one decides later to paint?



It sure will, unless it's 1/2" thick. Linseed oil used to be used in making paint years ago. Now it's all synthetic chemicals.


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## Retro Flutter (Dec 18, 2020)

My current project, a '62 Roadmaster, I decided to use BLO on it, something I never used before. I ended up using a local brand called "Circa 1850" It's double boiled, not sure what kind of difference it makes? But same company also makes some killer gel paint stripper. So far, I'm liking the result of it..


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## ian (Dec 18, 2020)

Retro Flutter said:


> My current project, a '62 Roadmaster, I decided to use BLO on it, something I never used before. I ended up using a local brand called "Circa 1850" It's double boiled, not sure what kind of difference it makes? But same company also makes some killer gel paint stripper. So far, I'm liking the result of it..



I just put a second coat on my '61 Skyrider. It looks pretty cool, especially in a low light situation. I'll post pics later.  Ian


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## ian (Dec 18, 2020)

Here's a couple pics from this morning.


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## Grumpy Grampy (Jan 23, 2021)

Since I just happen to have a 5gal. can of BLO lying around I think I will experiment with it on some old metal. I've used it on wood but it never crossed my mind to use it on metal. If I remember I will take pics before and after. May even find a piece big enough to show side by side treated/untreated.


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## Beach Bum III (Mar 27, 2021)

50/50 Penetrol and denatured alcohol is a finish I’ve used on tons of projects. Wipe it on, let it sit for little bit, wipe off, repeat. Dried to a nice matte.


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## GTs58 (Mar 27, 2021)

Beach Bum III said:


> 50/50 Penetrol and denatured alcohol is a finish I’ve used on tons of projects. Wipe it on, let it sit for little bit, wipe off, repeat. Dried to a nice matte.



Interesting. Never heard of Penetrol being used for that. I've seen what a big puddle of boiled linseed oil turns into after a few years and can say that's some really tough schit that can't be chiseled off. What does some dried up Penetrol look like? 

PENETROL® Oil-Based Coating Additive​


PENETROL® Oil-Based Coating Additive is a versatile low-odor additive to improve penetration, adhesion and flow of oil-based paints, stains, varnishes and primers.

Improves penetration and adhesion to compensate for weathering on surface
Improves flow to reduce brush marks; extends open and working times
Restores luster to faded, weathered fiberglass
Inhibits rust on metal surfaces


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## bleedingfingers (Mar 29, 2021)

I've had good luck with wd-40 and 0000 steel wool
Cleaned everything on this bike that way .


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## Ernbar (Apr 9, 2021)

I used BLO on my 46 Rollfast and love the results. It brought life back to the paint and protects the metal both painted and chromed against rust. 
Several members said it looks too wet and is sticky. Very true if heavily applied but not if used in a light application. I wiped my bike down and later came back with a dry clean rag and wiped some of it away. The bike finish was dry by morning.
The rags will self combust so either put them in a can and burn them or soak them in a water bucket and leave it outside way from the house just in case.


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