# Help me restore my dad's bike



## Vetteman61 (Jan 31, 2011)

Hello everyone,

 I'm new here and have to say I know very, very little about bicycles.  My father has finally retired and one of the few material things that matters to him is his old bicycle.  It has been tucked away for years and years and is in pretty bad shape.  I've always wanted to surprise him with it by fixing it up.  Since he finally went to Florida for a few months this year, I thought it would be the perfect (and only) time to get it done without him knowing.  I now have the pieces of the bike in my garage and I'd like to get some direction on where to go.

I suppose before I post pictures or write about the bike, I'd like to make sure this is the appropriate place I could find help and direction.  I'm 29 years old, but I have a couple of antique cars I like to try to learn about, so I'm not *completely* inept at all things mechanical.  Since I know so little about bikes and their forums, I'm not sure if this is the forum I should be at, it just happened to be the first that came up in my google search.

The bike is a western flyer, and since my dad was born in 1945 I'm going to assume it's an early to mid 50s bike.  I have the serial number from under the pedal area.  

Any and all help would be appreciated,
Brandon


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## OldRider (Jan 31, 2011)

Thats about the right age bike for us  We have several folks here that know Western Flyers forward and backward, and would be glad to help. Post the serial numbers and pictures, the serial number will tell us the maker, I believe Western Flyer used several makers......lets see what ya got!


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## Vetteman61 (Jan 31, 2011)

That's great news.  Thanks in advance.

This bike means a whole lot to my dad and I know he would probably expect to see aliens land than see his old bike again, so I'm really looking forward to being able to give it to him.  I'm going to have to keep this project as budget minded as possible, as I have very little extra.  The serial number to the bike is *224792*I have a few questions to start off:

Will I be able to find reproductions of these decals?

I intend to blast the frame, tank and various parts of the bike (making sure not to go through the metal I hope).  It has been suggested I have the parts powder coated.  I see no problem with this, but I was wondering how that would effect surfaces such as inside where the bearings go to the pedals or the inside area where the handle bar shaft goes inside the frame.

Essentially all the chrome on the bike is too far gone, except the thin, small chrome bar that is on the back of the seat.  I may be able to bring it back to good with some steel wool.  How should I go about repairing these items.  I know I could possibly have them rechromed, but I fear that may be very expensive.  I was told there is a process similar to power coating a man does near here that has almost the same result as chrome.  (This bike doesn't have to be a complete, exact 100%, show winning restoration, but I want it to look good and as much as possible as it did when my dad had it years ago).  The wheels are also an area I'm not sure how to restore.  would each spoke have to come off and be repaired separately?

As far as I can tell, all the pieces are there.  I'm not sure how to reassemble the bearings.  I'm afraid I may leave something out or parts may be missing I'm not aware of.  Would someone be able to direct me to a manual or describe (with pictures, I'm unfortunately a visual learner) how to put this back together correctly and safely.  There's a steep bridge where my father rides in Florida and I don't want him to literally die riding the bike I tried to fix.

That's all for now.  Here's the pictures I have.


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## Vetteman61 (Jan 31, 2011)




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## Vetteman61 (Jan 31, 2011)

I also was worried about how to replace/repair the pedals





I know this was aftermarket, but I'm hoping I can clean it up and somehow repair the chrome housing on the J.C. Higgins speedometer.


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## Vetteman61 (Jan 31, 2011)

Whew, glad that's over.


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## bricycle (Jan 31, 2011)

Ok, here's a couple of places you can check out for decals: Memory Lane Classics and Maple Island Sales. Chrome check out Proctor's Metal finishing (small stuff is especially reasonable). Folks here should be able to get you parts/tires/wheels... May be cheaper to get nice used part instead of re-chroming.
Welcome, and best of luck!!!
bri.


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## JLarkin (Jan 31, 2011)

That is a nice frame, a twin top bar.  The bike once powder coated red would be super nice.  I would powdercoat all the chrome parts that won't cleanup in "almost chrome" except for the bearing cups; just clean those well in a wire wheel.  Here is a website that has nice red/white WF pedals for your bike plus they sell grips, spokes, fenders, tires, tubes and repop handlebars that would be close matches to yours: http://www.rinienterprises.com/  The big money would come in the graphics.  You can make tracings + measurements and with your photos, have them made in vinyl but it will be expensive due to the labor.  An alternative would be to create the essence of the graphic by cutting them out of vinyl yourself.  You would lose the detail of the flags/crowns/words/etc but could create something that still keeps the feel of the design.  I don't know what your budget is but with parts and powdercoating I would expect to spend close to $300 by the time you are done; it adds up fast.  I certainly don't mind helping make you a shopping list but in the end it is your project.


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## redline1968 (Jan 31, 2011)

I have a set of rims that would knock your socks off. if you interested i will post pics in the for sale dept


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## Vetteman61 (Jan 31, 2011)

Thanks for the responses and links.

What are the bearing cups that were mentioned?  I'm guessing it just refers to the rings that hold the ball bearings, but I just want to double check and make sure there's not something else that refers to that I'm not sure of.

I guess if I'm going to start looking and calling places for parts I should know exactly what kind of bike I have.  I've tried to search on the internet thinking there would be a database for bikes, but I haven't found a place yet that can decode a Western Flier.  Does anyone know of a place I can find the model and year of this bike?

I'm almost afraid to even try to list a budget.  $300 dollars is really, really pushing my budget so I hope I'm able to keep it below that.  If the powder coating is too expensive, I have a friend that paints cars and I think I may be able to get him to shoot the bike and clear coat it.  I would prefer, of course, for durability reasons I'm able to powder coat it.

Is it likely, once I find the model, I may be able to purchase all the decals as a kit?  I found the front fork decals on Ebay for 2 dollars.

Powder coating the pedals where the bearings will ride is ok to do, or is that something I should try to find away around?

Thanks for the offer on the wheels.  I'd like to try to keep as many original parts on the bike as possible.  I know the pedals and fenders will have to be replaced.  I'm going to check the option of having the wheels coated first and then go from there.

Oh yes, I also meant to ask:  Should this model have something in front of the tank like a chromed headlight that would go around the fork.  I'm guessing not due to the placement of the plaque on the front of the bike, but just thought I'd make sure because so many I've seen pictures of as I've looked have had that part on them.

Also, when I remove the rivets from the front plate, should I just drill them out like normal rivets?

Thanks again everyone,
Brandon


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## sam (Feb 1, 2011)

looks like you have a bendix two speed rear hub---you'll need a shifter and cable


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## Adamtinkerer (Feb 1, 2011)

Looks to be a '58 or later Murray built bike. You'll probably be better off finding a local sign/graphics place to make new decals, because there were so many variations, and these don't have the following like Schwinn does. Yes, there are a few on ebay, but kind of hit & miss.


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 1, 2011)

I called the powder coat place today.  They said they could definitely do the bike and also could chrome powder coat the wheels and trim.  They said that the chrome would end up looking more like polished aluminum, but considering the cost difference of actually having to have all the pieces chromed I think this is probably the only alternative.

I also am supposed to be getting the number from my cousin about a local graphics/decal man that could possibly get the deals.  They are all intact enough to make duplicates from except for one that was on the main bar under the seat.  I can tell something was there but can't tell at all what it was.  Was this factory or perhaps something my dad added as a kid?

I'll look into post '58 murray bikes.  I'm still trying to find a definite make and year and style.

Brandon


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 2, 2011)

*Found the model number*

After steel wool and some cleaners I found the (previously nonexistent) model number.

It's MOR 2052.


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## fundreamer1 (Feb 2, 2011)

I have found that if you soak the rusted parts in a solution of 50% White vinegar and 50% lemon juice for 24 hrs (sometimes longer on some parts) it will do an excellent job of removing the rust, but it will not remove the paint or the grease. I have used it on my 1950's Hawthorne bike and I couldn't be happier with the results!
Here is a couple of pictures that shows the difference in my crank where I only dipped half of it in the solution to see a "before and after" affect of it. This is without any scrubbing or work by me to clean it up, Straight out of the solution.


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 2, 2011)

Wow, that's a big difference, especially without scrubbing.  Thanks for the tip.


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## 30thtbird (Feb 5, 2011)

The rear wheel in the picture is not original to the bike. It would be the same style as the front. The bike was originally not a 3 speed either. Would have been a single speed or at most, a 2 speed manual shift with coaster brake. I understand you wanting to keep as many original parts as possible, but sourcing good or better replacement parts is your best option. For example, the chrome fork crown was used all the way into the 70's. The bike is Murray made by the way, just badged and sold by Western Auto. Kenny.


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## militarymonark (Feb 5, 2011)

most of those chrome parts you can prob find in decent shape and swap them out. I know middleweight chrome rims are easy to find especially if you find a girls bike


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 7, 2011)

*Wheels*

I hadn't even noticed yet that the front wheel didn't match the rear.  
I have still yet to determine the exact type of bike this is.  I know it's a 1959 Murray built Western Flyer.

How can I determine what wheels should be on the bike.  I'm assuming the front is correct.  

I've been given several places to look for bike parts.  Is there one place in particular that is the best place to begin.  I took pictures of the measurements on the front and rear.  The front appears to be between 22 and 23 inches, but I suppose maybe closer to 22.

I'll put some pictures.  I'm also going to post this on a new thread linked here to possibly get some answers.  

Thanks,
Brandon

The "original" front wheel














The non-original rear wheel:


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## redline1968 (Feb 7, 2011)

I have a excelent pair of murry rims for you they are excelent original crome with no rust, dents and straight.  all laced up with the orig bendix brake and correct german brand front hub 80.00 set.. camera at work post pics on wed. mark


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## partsguy (Feb 7, 2011)

THE BEST WAY to find out what is what on this would be to find a Western Auto catalog or Ad from 1959. Yes, they are out there and very common. The old stuff is everwhere on eBay. Newer stuff? HENS TEETH RARE!

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_tr...estern+auto+catalog&_sacat=See-All-Categories


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 7, 2011)

I really just have 3 things that I have questions about originality.  The back wheel, the pedals and probably the fenders when I go to get them.  Other than that I believe everything is there and the powder coater said he would be able to give a polished aluminum/chrome look with good durability for a really good price.

Brandon


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## partsguy (Feb 8, 2011)

If thats the case, than the rims were most likely like my 1961 Murray. A Komet single speed coaster brake, red band Bendix single speed coaster brake, OR a yellow band Bendix two speed.

My Murray has the first option.


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 8, 2011)

I talked to a cousin that remembers the bike from when my dad was a kid.  He said it definitely was a single speed bike and that the brakes didn't work, which if it had coaster brakes might be the reason for the different back wheel.

Does it make a big difference which wheel I go with as far as Komet or Bendix?  Do they look the same?

Brandon


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## 30thtbird (Feb 9, 2011)

Personally, I feel that the Bendix has better brakes. They are so much easier to find than a Komet although there are still plenty of Komets out there. By the way, I replied to your pm. Kenny.


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## partsguy (Feb 11, 2011)

Komets are uncommon, Bendix is pretty common-especially the red bands. But since your bike is this old, I'd say a Komet is more correct.

For the record, I never notice much of a difference in Bendix vs. Komet for braking. Komets are nice in the fact that some come with oil ports for easier lubricating.


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## Vetteman61 (Feb 12, 2011)

Thanks, Bird.  I responded to your PM.


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## Vetteman61 (Jul 15, 2011)

Well, after all these months it's finally coming all together.  Here's a picture with the seat.  The only problem is I believe the powder coater lost the little tab that goes under the nut to hold the front seat spring down.  I'll probably just have to paint and use a small piece of metal.  
I'm currently waiting on a friend to get me the right brads to put the headbadge back on and the rest of the riveted pieces, then I can go ahead and put it all back together (or try).  





Brandon


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## partsguy (Jul 15, 2011)

Sweet! Keep us posted.


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## Vetteman61 (Jul 22, 2011)

Here's a few more pictures of the progress.  After 6 months, I'm almost there.

















If you ever have a bike powder coated, make sure to mask off the part you see here that I've had to strip.





Brandon


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## Boris (Jul 22, 2011)

*Western Flyer*

Absolutely FANTASTIC job!!!! Now don't let your dad ride it.


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## Zephyr (Jul 22, 2011)

Nice work!!!


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## Vetteman61 (Jul 23, 2011)

Thanks guys


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## Vetteman61 (Jul 30, 2011)

*Finished*

Well, it's 1 am here and I just finished my dad's bike.  I have been planning to give it to him tomorrow (technically today) for the last two weeks.  I had planned to finish up the very small finishing touches today but my wife threw me a surprise 30th birthday party today (a week early so it was a big surprise) which I don't mind a bit, it just meant I had to stay up a little later and finish the bike up.  I didn't have much to finish.  Just had to attach the rack and drill some holes to attach it and make a couple bolts work on a few other places.  Putting the final touch, the hand grips on, was a good feeling.  I can't wait to give this thing to him tomorrow, mostly because I'm tired of sneaking around and making sure to keep him out of my garage.  I don't have his original horn mounted yet.  I'm going to wait and check with him to see where it used to be before I mount it so I don't scratch up too many places on the handle bars.














Thanks to the people here who helped me over the last 8 months who provided answers to the questions I asked and provided websites of places to buy bike parts.  My dad and I both are grateful.  

Brandon


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## Rust_Trader (Jul 31, 2011)

*Wonderful*

Really nice Done.. Very nice of you to do that for your dad!

Don't forget to post some pictures of when he first sees this beauty again.


Great job!


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## kngtmat (Jul 31, 2011)

Beautiful, excellent work.


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