# Finishing or refinishing wood rims - Stutzman or others



## Kombicol (Feb 24, 2015)

So I have just posted my order off to Noah. First time I have sent away for something in a very long time... 

I understand the rims come unfinished. What is everyone one doing to finish theirs? Stain used, sealer, wax or oil only, patina? etc. 

Would like to know how folks are finishing theirs.

What are people doing with older wood rims with worn finishes? 

Please share your experiences - pictures are great too.


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## filmonger (Feb 25, 2015)

This depends on what you want and how orig you want your rims to look. I will list a few here for you.

I prefer the use of an *OSMO finish* as it is a modern finish that is a natural penetrating oil - about as green as you can get. here is their web site 

http://osmona.com

*Or there is Tung Oil - application recommendations below*

Pure Tung Oil works by oxidation with the air and polymerizes. So you want to get as much oil in the rim as soon as possible, but you do not want to apply the Pure Tung Oil with out thinning. It takes too long to dry and will sit on the surface and dry leaving a frosted appearance. Pure dry tung oil left on surfaces will also scuff leaving white marks like dry skin - not that this matters. So always thin Pure Tung Oil in rim applications and wipe off the excess.

Use 1 part Pure Tung Oil to 1 part thinner, apply the same way as the first application with a brush or sponge mop. Apply the oil in several coats one after another till you get a uniformly glossy surface that stays glossy for 20 to 40 minutes. After the waiting period, wipe the oil off the surface with a "T-shirt" type material. When wiping you do not need to scrub the surface. Just gently and evenly wipe excess oil from the surface.

At this point the rim should dry for 7 to 10 days before attempting to sand for re-glue. But I would leave it longer of possible. During the next week you will want to buff up any seepage that rises to the top during the drying process. You can do this by laying the T-shirt material rim and rubbing with back a forth ( sounds like a porn site - LOL ) This will polish and buff the rim slightly.

*Or there is boiled linseed oil ( BLO ) - application recommendations below*

Make sure you only use the turpentine for the first layer or two - as you must have done your research and found that this helps the BLO penetrate deeper - make sure you do not use the the turpentine mixture and only pure BLO on the last couple of applications - give it plenty of time to dry before top coat application. Also make sure you remove the excess BLO after letting it sit for a 5-10 mins for each coat - as the excess that does not penetrate the wood will not dry. Slather it on and wipe it off - simple and easy wait a min of 24hrs for each coat. The issue with BLO is that it darkens the wood colour and gives it a yellowish tint or amber hue. If you wish you can add colour with a couple of tablespoons of Miniwax stain - but you will have to wait an hour before wiping this down.

*Or a Spar Finish....Varnish etc..*

Here is a website for guys who restore Chris Craft runabouts....anything that works on a chris Craft will work on your rim - but it is good to do your research - so many pitfalls when it comes to spar and Varnish choices. Here is a website where they discuss this in depth.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/thread/1222052925/Varnish






I will list how lobdell used to finish his rims in a few mins - I just cannot find it. To give you an idea of how they used to do it in the day.

Lobdell Enamel Color chart





The two ends are then clamped together in a low-degree heat dry house, thereby taking all the moisture from
the wood.  After a thorough drying the ends are cut off to make the correct size rim wanted, dovetailed and 
put together with the best glue we can buy.  Steel clamps hold the joint in place until the glue is firmly set.

   The rim is then carried to the turning room and fastened securely in a jig on a machine, which forms the outside
of tire seat.  The rim is revolved at high speed against cutting tools set to gauge.  The next operation is turning 
the inside of the rim to form, and is accomplished in the same manner as described above, only the cutting tool is
on the inside of the rim circle.  They are next carried to the inspection room, and if the slightest knot or burl is
discovered, the rim is at once discarded and used for crating purposes.  

*The rims are next sanded.  This is done by holding emery paper of fine quality against the rim, revolving at high 
speed.  The valve hole is then drilled and rims are sent to the finishing department.

   The rim is first given a coat of lead mixed with the best grade of linseed oil we can buy.  After thoroughly
drying, they are hand rubbed.  Then four coats of enamel are applied with a hand rubbing between each, then a final
coat of high-luster varnish.  This finish is lasting and withstands the weather perfectly.  Next the spoke holes are
drilled by special automatic machines set to the drilling desired.  Each hole is correctly spaced, staggered and 
countersunk.  The machines are absolutely accurate, drilling every hole uniformly.*  This insures a true-running
wheel, for every spoke is in line, the pull evenly distributed and any possible side strain avoided.

   After another careful inspection rims are carried to the shipping department where they are carefully and
securely crated, insuring delivery in a No. 1 condition.

   Lobdell Rims are made to fit the various types of tires and in a variety of finishes that take care of the most
exacting requirements.

   Specify Lobdell Rims on your bicycles and satisfy your customers.

   Lack of space forbids a more detailed description of Lobdell Rims and their production.  A careful perusal of this
leaflet will, however, convince you the Lobdell Rims are made of the right material, by proper methods and are the rims
for you to use on your bicycle beyond the vast superiority of Lobdell Rims over all others. 

   Our branch factory, near Paris, France, produced many thousand wood rims the past season and the demand for wood
rims in Europe is increasing each year.  More evidence of Lobdell Rims superiority.

   SUPERIORITY OF WOOD RIMS OVER STEEL

   Steel rims have no life, spring or resiliency and, when the tire receives a blow in use, ti must stand the entire shock, 
which shortens its life very materially.

   The wood rim, if air-dried properly, retains its life and resiliency and, when the tire receives a shock, it springs
back, easing the blow, which lengthens the life of the tire.  Actual tests made under the following conditions proved our
claim conclusively: Two wheels were employed, one built-up with a wood rim and the other with steel, both fitted with
tires.  These wheels were caused to run against a wooden pulley 2-feet wide, having three-quarter-inch round moldings
placed squarely across and at angles on the face of the pulley.

   Both pulleys and wheels were run at a high rate of speed with the tire pressure against pulley at about the same 
pressure a rider's weight would be on the road.  The tire mounted on the wood rim lasted one-third longer than on the
steel.

   This is conclusive evidence of the wood rims' merit over steel, in addition to which the rider enjoys ease and 
comfort that he cannot secure on any other type of rim.

   A bicycle fitted with wood rims last longer, rides easier, has a better appearance and is far superior in every
way.

   The above applies to the solid heavy steel rim, which is brazed together.  There is, however, great merit in a very light steel lining 
(not brazed), mounted on a wood rim.  This produces a rim with a light-steel lining, having the same resiliency as the
all-wood.  This yupe of rim also has a perfect watershed, is very stiff and remains true under the severest usage.

   This wood steel-lined rim has met with a large sale, and is becoming more popular each year.  It is made for cement, 
Dunlop and clincher tires.

   This steel-lined clincher rim made the single-clinch tire possible, and you have Mr. E.J. Lobdell to thank, for he
alone is responsible for this rim, which enables you to sell a bicycle fitted with clincher tires at a reasonable
price.


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## hoofhearted (Feb 25, 2015)

*Minwax - Antique Oil Finish ...... hard finish .. soft lustre ........... google the product .......*


........  patric










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## Wheeled Relics (May 15, 2015)

Bump for finishing tips


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## Duchess (May 16, 2015)

I don't know about originality, but I prefer Zar stain as it's great to work with, goes on super smooth and blends perfectly. There are also dyes, which aren't the same thing. I've only used it on the tips of a Greenland paddle, but it seems to penetrate deeper than stain. Since you can get it in any color (I got orange), you can use it as a substitute for paint that better displays the grain structure of the wood. Varnish is an awful-smelling, long drying, PITA, but comes out giving the wood some depth with a beautiful amber glow. I did a 17' kayak deck in varnish and the wood stands out much better and looks more classic than the other kayak with automotive clear coat deck. I wouldn't recommend varnish if you have no experience with finishes, but it's not too bad if you follow the instructions well, can leave it somewhere to dry where there won't be stuff falling into it, and work carefully. Certainly, wood rims would be easier than a 17' kayak deck to hide brush strokes, so it might not be a bad project to try varnish on (I use disposable foam brushes as they are cheap, but don't shed, leave brush marks that are more consistent and shallower, and I've never been able to clean good regular brushes and have it turn out as good as new since I made model planes in high school and those brushes were tiny, anyway.).


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