# 1957 Raleigh Sports purchased on E-Bay



## usarnie1 (May 2, 2018)

Well, I bought another one!  This one was located in New Hampshire, sold to me on E-bay, shipped out to me in California on Bike Flights and arrived without any damage!  Although I already have a 1952 Raleigh Sports, I just could not pass up this 1957 Raleigh Sports.  The bike has the rare Sturmey Archer SW 3 speed hub that shifts both quietly and flawlessly. Additionally, it has the Raleigh pressed steel chrome hand brake controls and all the original decals are in good shape and easy to see. The frame size is 21" and I told the seller to keep both the handlebars and stem, as they were welded together and I have better ones to install. The bike cleaned up very nicely and as usual I did the many repairs to bring it back to the condition as shown in the 2 photos below.

Work that I compleated: cleaned both the paint and the chrome and then waxed the bike. Re-attached the rear fender stay using the existing screw-in reflector. Strengthen out both fender stays. Installed replacement handlebar and stem. Re-greased the bearings on the front fork. Filled out over welded area within the inside of the frames verticle seat tube. Degreased the chain and applied fresh chain oil. Replaced both tires, tubes and rim liners. Cut new slots within the handbrake control screws and re-attached the controls back onto the handle bars. Cleaned the 3 speed shifter and re-attached it to the handlebars. Cleaned the 3 speed pulley wheel. Straightened out the right side crank arm. Installed vintage Raleigh pedals. Installed new Raleigh hand grips. Installed new brake pads to both front and rear brakes. Installed new Brooks B66 leather saddle. Removed dent from front fender. Installed 16 new axel bearings within the Dynohub and applied fresh new marine grease to them. Installed a new 3 speed anchor and new shifter cable. Installed 3 new stainless steel cable clamps. Installed new front and rear brake cables. Replaced the missing slider onto the front sprocket's pie plate.

I was able to acquire yet another 1950s Midland Sports rear book rack on E-bay and will be re-spraying it black and then attaching it onto the bike. Additionally, I was able to purchase on E-bay an original period correct Sturmey Archer headlight and tail light and will be attaching it onto the bike, as I tested the voltage output of the Dynohub and it produces enough AC voltage to power both of the lights.

I would like to say that the bike is free from rust.  However, there are rust sections present on the outer sides of both rims, where the brake shoes make contact, as the chrome has thined out in this area.  All in all the bike handles very nice, is a pleasure to ride and i think it looks very nice!

Work that I still need to do: re-build the bottom bracket and replace both cottered pins with new ones.











View attachment 800134


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## mongeese (May 2, 2018)

Lifelong bicycle.


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## RidgeWalker (May 3, 2018)

Very, very, nice.  I had a Rudge with an SW and I really loved it.  Keep it well oiled and adjusted.


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## usarnie1 (May 8, 2018)

I added a 1950s Midland Sports rear book rack and a 1920s Mckeelite to my 1957 Raleigh Sports 3 speed bicycle. I am using a 24 LED bulb within the vintage headlight


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## Oilit (May 9, 2018)

Interesting that you like the SW. I recently picked up a 1958 Hercules with the SW hub and from research on the internet, it sounds like the design caused Sturmey-Archer enough grief that they eventually dropped it and went back to the AW.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sw.html


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## SirMike1983 (May 9, 2018)

The issue with the SW is you have the floating pawls that often do not (or cannot) engage the hub firmly into gear. The pawls need to transition from "float" to "lock" in the SW. If the hub is in good shape, the oil is not too thick, the cog-to-chainring ratio is favorable, and the pawls are not worn, then they can work. The SW is smaller and lighter than the AW. It runs smoothly and is very quiet... at least when it works.

This is complicated by the fact that the hub will "grab then slip" if the pawls partially but do not fully engage, something common to these hubs. The hub will begin to engage and run, then when a sufficient amount of pressure is applied, the hub slips into a "neutral" state because the pawls have not "locked" into position. If the rider is pushing hard (especially in acceleration or on a hill), it can result in serious injury. 

That's not to say they are all that way. Some are of such a condition and state that they actually do fully work. Many have issues as we find them today (combination of a flawed design and 60 years of wear or neglect). But when they work, they're neat hubs. 

And not all SWs are alike - there are actually several revisions on the design that took place over the SW's short run. Sturmey Archer became aware fairly quickly the design was flawed and tried to correct it before finally abandoning the concept.


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## usarnie1 (May 11, 2018)

I rebuilt the bottom bracket, replaced both cottered pins, replaced all the bearings and used fresh new marine grease.


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## usarnie1 (May 16, 2018)

Even though my 1957 SW hub currently works flawlessly, I do not want to risk it going into a neutral state while I am peddling. Therefore, I purchased a 1957 AW hub off of E-bay and will replace my SW hub with it and add a new set of 40 slightly longer spokes.


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## Oilit (May 16, 2018)

usarnie1 said:


> Even though my 1957 SW hub currently works flawlessly, I do not want to risk it going into a neutral state while I am peddling. Therefore, I purchased a 1957 AW hub off of E-bay and will replace my SW hub with it and add a new set of 40 slightly longer spokes.
> View attachment 808301



I know what you mean. It might never happen, but just thinking about it...


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## SirMike1983 (May 19, 2018)

I replaced a 1958 SW on a Raleigh with a 1954 FW four-speed (same shell as the AW). I was able to re-use my Raleigh spokes. The SW shell is smaller than the AW/FW shell so the spokes will tend to become too long. I "shortened" them up by adding brass spoke washers at the flange and inter-lacing the spokes.


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## HARPO (Jun 28, 2018)

Just got this 1960 a few hours ago!


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## usarnie1 (Jun 28, 2018)

I think your bike is stunning! if the key number is not stamped on the outside of the chrome lock, it will be visible on the inside of the lock. I had to make my own lock picking tools to assist me in removing the lock on a 1956 Raleigh Superbe bike.  Additionally, I had to remove the long bolt that holds the front brake and then carefully remove the stainless steel cap on the non lock side, widen the hole on the blocking plate so a screwdriver can be inserted through the blocking plate and then remove the screw that holds the lock in place. Once the lock is removed, you will be able to see the key number stamped on top of the barrel of the tumblers.  You can purchase a new key from Australia. The replacement keys are advertised on e-bay.


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