# 1936 Wards hawthorne Silver King project.



## sandmangts (Jan 2, 2011)

I just picked up this wonderful frame and I intend to build it up as a retro-mod. I like to find old frame that are not in original condition and give them a new life. I have one question, how do you secure the seatpost? I assume the rear rack was used in some way to adjust the seat height? Also, can anyone tell me the post diameter? I am sure there will be many other questions as I progress through the build. I intend to use a Morrow coaster and 26 inch wheels which seem to fit ok. Have any of you guys got silver kings? If so please post a pic or two. Thanks!















Here are a few pics of some frames I have brought back from the dead.


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## Strings-n-Spokes (Jan 2, 2011)

I believe the seatpost on those had an expander on the bottom similar to a gooseneck.  Those frames were intended for 24" tires, but with no fenders there is clearance for a 26" wheelset.


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## chitown (Jan 2, 2011)

This one is on ebay right now from bicyclebones. The early ones were "7" shaped while there are some that are straight that reduce near the top for the seat clamp but with the same gooseneck/expander bolt design.

View attachment 15888

btw what's the serial # of your wards. Should be on the large piece that attaches the bottom bracket to the rear stays.

Here are some pics of 2 of mine.

View attachment 15889

View attachment 15890

Looks like a nice frame set you got there. Have fun!


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## sandmangts (Jan 2, 2011)

Thanks guys, that helps alot. I may buy that one but if not it seems I could make one out of some aluminum or steel rod.


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## chitown (Jan 2, 2011)

I would love to see the homemade version! I wonder if you could use a long stem and modify that somehow?


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## wigditty (Jan 2, 2011)

I have a seatpost if you need one.  It's the tapered type that is straight, not the one shaped like a seven.  Let me know if interested.


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## sandmangts (Jan 2, 2011)

chitown said:


> I would love to see the homemade version! I wonder if you could use a long stem and modify that somehow?




I bet I could use a 1 inch quill stem extender. I have seen some that that add 100mm. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360331386978&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Or I could just buy some aluminum rod stock from the metal store and have it core drilled for a long 5mm hex bolt and then just cut the wedge shape. My concern however would be if I made it too long and ended up damaging the frame. Probably best to just pony up and buy the original.


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## old hotrod (Jan 2, 2011)

Yeah, I think you are trying too hard, the straight ones were used for years, are reasonable and are very easy to find...


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## twowheelfan (Jan 3, 2011)

does that frame have a hole drilled into the seat post casting on the other side? Approx (1/4" x20")


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## sandmangts (Jan 3, 2011)

wigditty said:


> I have a seatpost if you need one.  It's the tapered type that is straight, not the one shaped like a seven.  Let me know if interested.




I am interested. I pm'd you. There is no hole drilled in the seatpost casting.


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## AntonyR (Jan 5, 2011)

Re: Hole in seatpost casting = If it has a hole, it doesn't belong there.


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## twowheelfan (Jan 6, 2011)

i know, i thought that i recognized that particular frame as one that i had at one point.


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## sandmangts (Jan 6, 2011)

I was tinkering around with the fork. Part of an old stem is stuck in the steerer tube so I was seeing if I could get it to move and the whole steerer just came right out of the fork! Oh well, better to find out now.


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## Mybluevw (Jan 6, 2011)

sandmangts said:


> I was tinkering around with the fork. Part of an old stem is stuck in the steerer tube so I was seeing if I could get it to move and the whole steerer just came right out of the fork! Oh well, better to find out now.




I had the same thing happen with a silverking fork. I glued mine back together with JB weld and so far it has held


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## ColsonTwinbar (Jan 7, 2011)

Oh man, you could make a sweet solid aluminum one on the lathe. All you would need would be a long bolt and wedge.


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## sandmangts (Jan 11, 2011)

I think the fork is serviceable. I will just need to get a 1 inch steerer and mill it. I do have a nice 1 inch modern suspension fork that I will use in the mean time. Like I said this is going to be a retro-modern build. Lets hope the rest of the frame stays intact.


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## sandmangts (Jan 19, 2011)

I did a quick test polish today to see if the results will be worth the effort. 





I think it is going to be worth it. I still need a seatpost!


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## scrubbinrims (Jan 19, 2011)

I have the seatpost you are looking for in one of my auctions on ebay currently...however, you have to buy the whole package to get it, but you could always sell off what you don't need or start a project for the Mrs..
May not end up finishing that high...one never knows.
It has a bolt and wedge like a handlebar stem.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270693771899&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT


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## sandmangts (Jan 31, 2011)

I managed to cut the steerer off an old damaged pre-war fork and I milled it down to fit into the fork crown. Worked like a charm and I made some progress with the build. Some of you purists out there will be upset with the use of incorrect parts but this is a retro-mod, not a restoration. I used the truss rods off an Elgin and a skip tooth drivetrain with a morrow hub laced to hand polished Araya 7x rims. My skip tooth chain is too short though at 56 inches and I have yet to see a longer one. Have any of you ever lengthend a skip tooth chain? I am thinking I could just get a few master links and another chain and add a few links. I still need a seatpost!


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## Talewinds (Jan 31, 2011)

Sooooo nice! Congrats on that bike!


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## chitown (Jan 31, 2011)

Looking great! Those 26" knobby tires are just squeezing in there... not much mud clearance... not that it would ever see any mud. Wouldn't want to ruin that sweet polishing job you've done.

Congrats on the steering tube fix too. Good luck on the seat post.


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## sandmangts (Feb 6, 2011)

chitown said:


> Looking great! Those 26" knobby tires are just squeezing in there... not much mud clearance... not that it would ever see any mud. Wouldn't want to ruin that sweet polishing job you've done.
> 
> Congrats on the steering tube fix too. Good luck on the seat post.



Yeah it is a little close but they are 2.35's so when I get some cruiser tires they should be fine. I made some more progress, not sure about the stem, I think I will try to find another nice chrome quill instead.  I still have some choices to make, I like the handlebar which is a pre-war original from an Elgin. I got almost everything mounted and sat on it for the first time.


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## scrubbinrims (Feb 6, 2011)

Are those Hutch bearclaw pedals?
I still have an imprint of those on my right shin.


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## sandmangts (Feb 6, 2011)

scrubbinrims said:


> Are those Hutch bearclaw pedals?
> I still have an imprint of those on my right shin.



I wish, no they are cheapo reproductions. Those Hutch pedals are worth about $400 bucks now.


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## lobsterboyx (Feb 7, 2011)

what did you use to polish it, it looks beautiful...


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## sandmangts (Feb 7, 2011)

lobsterboyx said:


> what did you use to polish it, it looks beautiful...




It was wet sanded from 400 grit to 600, to 800, to 1000, to 1500, to 2000 grit. After that I used 8 inch buffing wheels on a bench grinder and 4 levels of compound from course to fine. I used a dremel on the hard to reach areas. I then finished with Mothers polish and then I use a polymer called Liquid Glass that goes on like car wax and creates a long lasting oxygen barrier that prevents oxidation and keeps it shiny.


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## yewhi (Feb 8, 2011)

sandmangts said:


> I managed to cut the steerer off an old damaged pre-war fork and I milled it down to fit into the fork crown. Worked like a charm and I made some progress with the build. Some of you purists out there will be upset with the use of incorrect parts but this is a retro-mod, not a restoration. I used the truss rods off an Elgin and a skip tooth drivetrain with a morrow hub laced to hand polished Araya 7x rims. My skip tooth chain is too short though at 56 inches and I have yet to see a longer one. Have any of you ever lengthend a skip tooth chain? I am thinking I could just get a few master links and another chain and add a few links. I still need a seatpost!




Hey Aaron,

I've never lengthened a chain but I have an alternative solution.  This is a smaller DP Harris chainring.  Not as pretty as yours but it would do the trick.  Probably cost ~60.00 to get re-chromed and I'll be happy to send it your way cheap.  PM me if you're interested.

TCN


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## sandmangts (Feb 8, 2011)

That is very nice of you Tim. Another forum member has sent me part of another chain though and I think that will work. I will just have to use another master link. Thanks. It probably would not quite get there either. I have another smaller sweetheart ring and the 56 link chain was still too short! This things wheel base is almost 3 inches longer than my DX and my Mercury.


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## fordsnake (Feb 11, 2011)

I'm sorry about the delay on the requested 6" chain extender (I've been busy)...and after pulling it out yesterday and looking at it, it was rather rusty. But I've found three others extenders lying around in very nice conditions: 9", 18", & 26", so which one would you like, remember it's free! FYI: to connect the extender to your existing chain buy a Chain Rivet Extractor tool, it's invaluable and simple to use, allowing you to push the pins in and out of the links. Once you've connected the extender to your chain, then complete connecting the two loose chain ends on your bike with 1 master link for easy access.


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## sandmangts (Feb 11, 2011)

fordsnake said:


> I'm sorry about the delay on the requested 6" chain extender (I've been busy)...and after pulling it out yesterday and looking at it, it was rather rusty. But I've found three others extenders lying around in very nice conditions: 9", 18", & 26", so which one would you like, remember it's free! FYI: to connect the extender to your existing chain buy a Chain Rivet Extractor tool, it's invaluable and simple to use, allowing you to push the pins in and out of the links. Once you've connected the extender to your chain, then complete connecting the two loose chain ends on your bike with 1 master link for easy access.




I think the 18 would do nicely. Thanks again, this is really cool of you. Just let me know what the shipping is and I will get it to you right away.


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## fordsnake (Feb 12, 2011)

I shipped it off yesterday. Don't worry about the cost it was minimum. Enjoy!


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## bud poe (Feb 12, 2011)

Wow, the bike looks great and it's nice to see this kind of courtesy in the hobby (the free length of chain)...The chain rivet extractor tool, is that a general item or bike specific?  I know the bike chain-break I have will not accommodate the wider 1" pitch chain...Maybe a general tool supplier would have one that would fit the wide chain?


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## fordsnake (Feb 12, 2011)

My chain rivet extractor will fit both 1/2" and 1" pitch chain. I've had it for years, its very similar to http://www.bikeworldusa.us/Tool-Chain-Rivet-Extractor/M/B002TWHNRU.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=froogle


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## old hotrod (Feb 12, 2011)

I have had good luck with skip tooth chains using the chain breaker on my crank bros multi tool...fits the links better than those Rivoli or Cyclo brand cheap chain breakers. Might be smart to take a piece of chain to a bike shop and see what tool fits best...


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## fordsnake (Feb 12, 2011)

"what ever's the right tool is the best tool" my father would say to me. I was fortunate to inherit all of his tools when he past, tools from from 20's, 30's and 40's (he was mechanic). Those tools are valuable, heavy and made in the USA, but mixed amongst the many special tools there are many simple hand made tools he created and made to get a job done! It doesn't take much to extract a pin from a chain...it's a no brainer, a simple process! I have removed the too many pins, reinstalled them, lengthen and shorten chains with that $2.00 extractor I bought 30 years ago and it hasn't fail me yet. But I understand there are those who'd like to approach yesteryear's items with today's technology


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## old hotrod (Feb 12, 2011)

fordsnake said:


> " I understand there are those who'd like to approach yesteryear's items with today's technology



 You are assuming too much...I have a tool similar to the one you use but it has guide plates that do not fit skip tooth chains. I was simply trying to give the original poster some alternatives as I have found some tools fit-others do not as I have several different tools...but "what ever's the right tool is the best tool" 
is always correct...


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## sandmangts (Feb 12, 2011)

FS, thanks for restoring my faith in the human race. That is very cool and I will be sure to pass along the favor to the next person who needs something from me. I have a park tool chain breaker that works perfectly on skip tooth chains. It is an old one from back when mountain bike chains were much wider. There are also ones that are designed for bmx chains that work quite well.


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## bud poe (Feb 13, 2011)

Cool, thanks for all the info guys!


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## sandmangts (Feb 13, 2011)

The expanding seatpost was either too expensive or too hard to find so I made one out of an old 1 inch quill stem. 








I did not care for the big black clamp on the brake lever so I stripped and polished it.




And I changed the handlebar:










Next will be some red brick tires and some amber shellack for sealing the cork grips.


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## fordsnake (Feb 13, 2011)

Two thumbs up for ingenuity. It's looking good!


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## sandmangts (Feb 17, 2011)

Finally got her out for a ride today. The bike is amazingly comfortable and it cruises along nice and smooth. Thanks to FS for providing the extra links. As you can see the chain is quite long.


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## wigditty (Feb 18, 2011)

Nice bike.  I hope your not going to be riding it off road too much.  I would hate to see anything on the frame break.  Pretty sweet ride!


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## sandmangts (Feb 19, 2011)

wigditty said:


> Nice bike.  I hope your not going to be riding it off road too much.  I would hate to see anything on the frame break.  Pretty sweet ride!



No, the knobby tires will be replaced with some cruiser tires soon. This one is strictly for the beach and boardwalk. My Mercury is the only old bike I have that gets used on the trail.


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## sandmangts (Feb 19, 2011)

Ok, now I am done.


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## AntonyR (Feb 20, 2011)

I know you said that you were done, but keep your eyes peeled for an Elgin '36 or so Bluebird front sprocket. A solid chrome one. It would set the polish of the frame off pretty great(not that it doesn't look great already..)


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## sandmangts (Feb 20, 2011)

AntonyR said:


> I know you said that you were done, but keep your eyes peeled for an Elgin '36 or so Bluebird front sprocket. A solid chrome one. It would set the polish of the frame off pretty great(not that it doesn't look great already..)



That would look pretty kick ass. The rain stopped for a few hours today and I hit the beach in the morning. There is nothing like having a nice hot coffee and cruising along checking out the girls. I had 4 people stop and ask me about the bike. One even asked if it was for sale. That made me feel pretty good.


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