# Installing Torrington cast stems[without breaking them]



## the tinker (Apr 10, 2017)

First of all don't do it on a cold [winter] day.  Use a 7/8 "ths. open end wrench to tap in.Hold the wrench flat and even so the pressure will be distributed evenly on both sides of the opening.
DO NOT use a screw driver to "pre-open" the stem a bit.  This puts too much pressure  in one spot on the crown  and it will crack. When using something to pry it apart before hand the aluminum casting must be "over" pried,  to get it to the correct opening. This is when it breaks.  By doing it as outlined above the stem only opens the exact amount to clear the cross brace. The flat wrench distributes the hammer blows .Reverse procedure for removing.
Also this is also the only way I remove grips.  Those stubborn Schwinn grips that have welded themselves on to the bars. I place a hunk of tape over the sharp edges of an open end 7/8 wrench, so the chrome don't get scratched.   three little taps and it's off, every time.                                                                                          
 Notice that the stem shown is almost completely closed. It will only open the minimum amount it has too. 


  One other thing I have noticed from taking lots of bikes apart. Some fellows put stuff on Waaaaaay too tight. This stuff is old. Gotta go easy on it.


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## frankster41 (Apr 10, 2017)

Hey Dave 
I missed you yesterday at Addison. Robin said you had somewhere to be for awhile in the morning. Maybe next time.
Frank


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## OhioJones (Apr 27, 2017)

Much obliged for this one. Going to be doing that exact stem that you've got shown. P-A-T-I-E-N-C-E  haha


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## abe lugo (Apr 27, 2017)

One thing is that you have l, is the proper era correct Torrington handlebars as the spacer is the correct diameter so the bolt will not over pinch.


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## srfndoc (Aug 28, 2020)

the tinker said:


> First of all don't do it on a cold [winter] day.  Use a 7/8 "ths. open end wrench to tap in.Hold the wrench flat and even so the pressure will be distributed evenly on both sides of the opening.
> DO NOT use a screw driver to "pre-open" the stem a bit.  This puts too much pressure  in one spot on the crown  and it will crack. When using something to pry it apart before hand the aluminum casting must be "over" pried,  to get it to the correct opening. This is when it breaks.  By doing it as outlined above the stem only opens the exact amount to clear the cross brace. The flat wrench distributes the hammer blows .Reverse procedure for removing.
> Also this is also the only way I remove grips.  Those stubborn Schwinn grips that have welded themselves on to the bars. I place a hunk of tape over the sharp edges of an open end 7/8 wrench, so the chrome don't get scratched.   three little taps and it's off, every time.
> Notice that the stem shown is almost completely closed. It will only open the minimum amount it has too. View attachment 449201  One other thing I have noticed from taking lots of bikes apart. Some fellows put stuff on Waaaaaay too tight. This stuff is old. Gotta go easy on it.




Old thread but wanted to say thanks for outlining the process to get a Torrington Deco stem on/off bars.  I just went thru this process and it was simple and effective.  If only the PO of my senior braced bars would have known that instead of using a grinder to cut the stem off.


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