# Heavy Rust Removal



## tadpole.1

OK, granted I will never restore this bike to a collectible condition, but I just want to ride it.  What I want to know is, what methods do you recommend for rust removal?  Muriatic acid?  And what about that spray from the auto parts store  that converts rust to some kind of black stuff?  As you can see, the bike is VERY rusty.  The bike BTW was ID'ed to me by rustnspokes as a JC Higgins.  

Pics: 





































And I made a little page with the full size pics here: 

http://homeofthegnome.net/junkdrawer/02-01-10/Name_This_Bike.html


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## Andrew Gorman

Neat bike!  I love the truck reflector bolted to the back of the rack as a backstop.  I need to do that to one of my bikes.   For rust removal I'd avoid chemicals and take it off mechanically.  I've used a wire brush on an angle grinder or bench mounted to an old washing machine motor to work off the worst.  This is noisy, dusty and probably a little unsafe as you are moving an awkwardly shaped bike frame around a spinning motorized wire brush.
Last time  I had a frame this rusty I clamped the frame in a work stand, took off the worst with a wire brush in an electric drill and hand sanded the rest with long strips of sandpaper.  Use fabric backed waterproof sandpaper, rip it into inch wide strips and saw it back and forth.  Some filament tape stuck to the back will make it last a little longer, and keeping it wet will keep the paper from clogging too quickly AND keep the dust down.  Check out the inside of any visible tubes for heavy rust, and run a wire bottle brush  down them.  You'll need to find a longer handle- I was able to find a brush I could attach to a cheap army surplus rifle cleaning ramrod which works OK.
Once the rust is gone, paint the outside of the frame and spray the inside with Ospho rust neutralizer, rinse it off, and sand the outside with fine sandpaper again.  Almost ready to paint, but since you will probably have a lot of small pits, use a coat or two of automotive scratch filling primer to smooth it out.  
This is a lot of work, so think about whether the bike is worth it to you before you start.  Hope this helps!


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## Adamtinkerer

You may just want to have the frame, fork, & chainguard sandblasted. A lot quicker! The other parts you can clean by hand, brass wire wheel in a drill, steel wool, etc.


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## tadpole.1

Thanks Adam!  I might do that.  I know a good sandblaster.  I'm not decided on anything yet though.


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## bairdco

i just discovered the 3M Scotchbrite Sanding wheel to attach to a drill. it works a million times (give or take a few hundred thousand) better than wire wheels, and it doesn't leave deep wire wheel scratches. one wheel will do a frame and fork, and as it wears down, it works good for polishing the heads of rusty bolts. it's still dusty, and you'll end up with a snootful of rust and lead paint, so wear a mask.

it works good on old paint, too, but not so well on thick housepaint. for that, i use a chemical paint stripper.

but with your bike? get it blasted, unless you really like the DIY feeling.


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## tadpole.1

And thanks to you, too.   Your tip is great.  I'll be contacting the sandblaster guy sometime in the coming week and see what he says.


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## tadpole.1

Wups, I shouldn't have hit the post button so quick.  Let me ask also, is muriatic acid the best solution for the chain, chainring etc?


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## partsguy

You call that rust? Shoot, check out my Rapido bike! lol


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## bentpedal

A really great product a collector told me about is called "The Must For Rust" or "Krud Kutter" -water based & biodegradable. I've used it on allot on chrome using a brass brush with amazing results. It can't do much for corrosion where the chrome is gone, but what can. It seems more suited for chrome. DON"T let it DRY on paint.! I learned this the hard way. It's very mild & can take allot of brushing. Had a hard time finding it though. Finally found a spray bottle at home Depot. On store had it and another store didn't...? A wire wheel on a bench grinder for heavy rust can be about the only option sometimes. you just end up with raw steel & a matte finish. A natural looking patina. Using a sanding disc on an angle grinder works well but will have an obvious "grinded shiny" look.


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## JLarkin

Agreed on the sandblasting.  Nothing beats parting with $40 and coming home with parts ready to wipe down and prime.  I'd add the wheels to the pile too.  

As for the chain, once you've removed all the grease possible by soaking for a few days in some SuperClean or Purple Power and then scrubbing with a toothbrush, a bench grinder with a wire wheel will clean up a rusty chain like new money.  The wire wheel is good for the seatpost and the kickstand too.  If you disassemble the pedals, those as well.  

If you think there is any chrome salvageable on the chainring, hubs or gooseneck, oxylic acid or wood bleach is what you'd want to use for soaking these.  Otherwise you might want to consider having those sandblasted and powdercoated.  I would spring for repop handlebars; cheaper overall.


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## rustyspoke66

I agree with the above coments on useing a wire wheel but always use a brass wire wheel!! The brass is softer than most materials you will be useing it on so you wont get the deep scratches like you do with a steel wire wheel. I usually use a brass wire wheel mounted on a bench grinder for all my small parts and then have frame, fork and fenders sand blasted.


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## slick

In my opinion, i'd put new tires and tubes and cruise it! That look can't be replicated! If you really want to redo it sandblast it. Dissassemble the whole bike and go that route. As for the chain i'd soak it in WD40 to loosen it up then oil. Btw I love the straws on the spoke nipples. How cool is that for a little kid to come up with that idea!


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## DMNCLNR

slick said:


> In my opinion, i'd put new tires and tubes and cruise it! That look can't be replicated! If you really want to redo it sandblast it. Dissassemble the whole bike and go that route. As for the chain i'd soak it in WD40 to loosen it up then oil. Btw I love the straws on the spoke nipples. How cool is that for a little kid to come up with that idea!




X2!

  I would use a heavy gauge steel wool on the major rust, then coat the whole bike with lin seed oil! That bike is bad ass as is! I would roll that in a heart beat!


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## dopehead

all these posts and i have not heard a word about wood bleach "oxilic acid" it can be gotten at any paint store. it comes in a 12 oz tub for 7 dollars and change..I mix one tablespoon per gallon of water and throw the rusty parts in it..eight hrs later take them out rince wipe and its done....now it will not remove pits and dullens metals that are not chrome. but is a wonder cure for rust.. also I put a phantom tank in this stuff and it came out shinning without effecting the paint or water based decals at all.  here is a brace to a rack in currently working on you can see where the acid bath stopped on the brace....ps how does one get a signature on this forum  William


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## dopehead

sorry j didnt see your post suggesting wood bleach...that is the stuff ill be posting more wood bleach photos soon


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## toehead

I restored a 1968 Ford F-100 it had rust covered chrome rims. I made them show quality by Coke and Aluminum Foil. Take aluminum foil and ball it up. Pour coke on it and start scrubbing. Works i have done it.


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## JLarkin

For smaller parts I have been using white vinegar.  It will attack the base metal but I am soaking parts for 48 hours with no bad effects unless you consider all the rust being gone a bad thing!  All you need to do after the soak is hit the part with a wirebrush quickly and rinse with clean water.  The metal will be so clean you can't believe it.  However the part will rust instantly.  You need a protective coating to apply immediately like Ospho to stabilize the metal.  Then it is ready for a topcoat.  Good process.


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## fattommy

For you guys in Southern Calif here's a link to a shop with a big stripper tank.  We had them strip a whole bunch of parts.  All came out very clean down to bare metal BUT it needs to be painted immediately or else it starts rusting again.
http://www.burlingtoneng.com/
Tommy


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## fattommy

Forgot to mention, Burlington charges about $100- OUCH !


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