# Revitalizing chain: '55-56 Schwinn 3-Speed



## FlintMitch (Aug 4, 2008)

I am trying to make my Schwinn Traveler (Nov 1955?) roadable for my son to take to college.  I've put on new (Kenda S-6) tires, tubes, rimstrips, tore down and reassembled the Sturmey-Archer SW 3-speed, and I'm working on the chain now.  It's intact but stiff.  Any suggestions on refurbishing an old chain?  I am trying to keep costs to a minimum -- this is not an attempt to restore to pristine condition -- just get it to work smoothly.  Brakes are next -- these are side pull Weinmann's and appear to only need new pads.

Thanks!


----------



## Andrew Gorman (Aug 4, 2008)

Just get a new chain- 1/2 pitch X 3/16 is a BMX size and should cost less than 10.00US.  The chain is a pretty critical driveline component and you'll notice the difference a new chain makes.


----------



## balloontirecruiser (Aug 4, 2008)

*Chain Revitalization...*

Would you like to know what has always worked for me to revitalize old chains? I take the chain off the bicycle, hold it vertically, take a can of aero-kroil "kreeping oil" metal loosening spray (I suppose WD-40 would work too, but Kroil is a much better product in my opninion) and spray a fair amount on every link (primarily at the joints). I let it soak in for a couple minutes, then start working the links back and forth completely (untill each link touches the next) with my index fingers. If you work each link completely back and forth enough times (I do each link proabably 10 times) the links free up to give the flexibility of a brand new chain. It is a fairly time consuming process (I've spent 45 minutes working on chains in this fashion) but if you keep at it, it perfects stiff vintage chains without changing the appearance. (I use a compressor with an air trigger to remove the excess kroil from the links so the chain isn't wet or produce spray when it's remounted). The chain won't look pristine (or much better at all) but it'll be as free as you could hope for and should ride very nicely. The original chain for my Colson was terribly stiff when the bicycle arrived, and I worked it for an hour (it was pretty rough) using Kroil and am very impressed with the flexibility it has now. For comparison purposes: As far as the ride and mechanical condition goes, there is no difference between my original Colson chain now and my new old stock chain of the same age. (While I probably could have spent $10 or $20 for a new chain or a new old stock chain, I prefer to save anything I can).

I hope you are able to get the chain into good mechanical condition.


----------



## Turtle (Aug 4, 2008)

Long ago, I used to hear about waxing a chain. Literally soaking it (after cleaning with WD-40) in melted paraffin. I seem to remember doing it at least once myself many years ago. I hadn't even thought about it in years until I started working on my present project. I found a link to some instructions on the ratrodbike site.

Waxing a chain

My current project is a 1938 Elgin with an old skip tooth chain. The chain is not in bad shape so since it's an old time bike, I thought I might use an old time approach to cleaning and lubing the chain.

Cheers


----------



## kunzog (Aug 4, 2008)

Soak the chain for a few days in kerosene, then wire brush it, oil it good and work each link until they are free. You may have to put the links in a vice to work them loose.


----------



## mrMoo77 (Aug 5, 2008)

*Cleaning the chain*

I have been told that WD-40 should never be used as a chain lubricant. 

WD-40 was developed by the military in the 50s as a rust preventative solvent and de-greaser to protect missile parts. It quickly became a household item when people discovered it had thousands of other uses as a cleaner, rust-prevention agent, squeek-stopper and more. It also works wonders as a light lubricant on small items like hinges, locks, and toys. 

Bicycle chains, on the other hand, are far too heavy and fast-moving for the lubricating power of WD-40 to have any effect at all. As a matter of fact, WD-40 will actually strip away any existing lubricant and leave your drivetrain dry - metal on metal. Basically, spraying this stuff on your chain is worse than using no lubricant at all!

Its strongly recommended that you use chain oil purchased from your local bike shop. Just go down there and ask them for regular waterproof chain oil. It shouldn?t be any more than 10 or 12 bucks, and it?s the best thing you can buy for your bike. My personal favorite is Cross Country, but if you want the Caviar, you can get quality oils from companies like Phil Wood.


----------



## 37fleetwood (Aug 5, 2008)

I'm in the new chain camp! around $6.99 at WallyWorld 
Scott


----------



## balloontirecruiser (Aug 5, 2008)

Yes, that's true about WD-40 (and probably kroil) and I don't suggest them as a lubricant, I just use them to free the links up. Once the chain is all free I replace the lubricant removed by the WD-40/Kroil with chain lubricant.


----------



## fuzzyktu (Dec 5, 2011)

I know this is an old thread but I must put my 2 cents in.  Aerokroil is 22 dollars for a can the size of a 3 dollar can of pb blaster.  Aerolroil may be great and have its uses but by the time you use it to renew a standard chain it is not cost effective.  Replace standard chain and renew skip tooth chain with evapo rust.


----------



## Schweirdo (Dec 21, 2011)

First I use Engine Brite Cleaner and Degreaser and a brass brush to remove dirt and grime. Then I soak it overnight in CLR. This will remove most of the rust. You will be able to wipe most of the rust off with a cloth. Then I work the links. I have a frame setup to put the chain on and run it a few turns. Then I use a brass wheel on slow speed to clean any excess. The chain will look new at this point. Then I have a silicone lubricant that I spray on it. And there you have an original new chain!  Time consuming but worth the little work for original parts.

Steve


----------

