# what type of paint?



## militarymonark (Jul 19, 2006)

i was wondering what type of paint does everyone use to restore thier bikes? Is car paint the best? or is there something else?


----------



## 37fleetwood (Jul 19, 2006)

you're gonna laugh but I used rattle cans on most of mine. the only drawback is drying time, it takes months before it actually gets hard like auto paint.


----------



## sam (Jul 19, 2006)

I use two part epoxy primer and dupont centarian top coat with super wet look hardener.


----------



## militarymonark (Jul 19, 2006)

i've used spray cans, I was thinking that I could use spray cans for the base and then for the finish go get some car clear coat with the additive in it that makes it hard real quick.


----------



## 37fleetwood (Jul 20, 2006)

car clear will eat rattle can paint right up!!! it will look like wrinkle finish instantly. don't do that. what I have done is pick the color I want and I go to the auto parts store and get their auto touch up paint clear which is usually a laquer (Wal-mart clear also seems to be a laquer and is dirt cheap but doesn't seem to dry as fast or hard). the clear laquer dries faster and harder than the enamel paint. here is the problem, enamel and laquer aren't exactly compatible and will chemically react if not done right. the way I do it is I get everything ready first. work out all the details and be prepared for all stages of the job so there will be no delays. I paint the first color, usually the frame dart area (usually the front third or so of the frame no taping needed just make sure you get a good coat and go far enough so your darts will fit) and quickly while it is still wet spray it with clear (make sure you cover all the enamel, it wont hurt to get the clear on the primer). let that dry completely (days if necessary) or the tape will distort the clear if it is still soft. then tape off the darts so they don't get painted and paint the rest of the bike and clear that while wet before you take off the tape. let that dry for 5 minutes or so. if it dries too much it will lift the paint when you pull up the tape if it is too wet it will pull up little strings of wet paint (like melted cheese) which will fall back onto the bike when they snap and leave little squiggles. the squiggles are better than pulling up the still rubbery semi-dry paint so err on the wet side if in doubt, you can get them off when they dry easier than putting pulled up paint back on. let the bike dry completely again. next using some very fine grit sand paper like 1200 grit lightly sand the edges of the tape lines until they are smooth or they will lift. after it is smooth make sure everything is clean and ready, then clear coat the whole thing a bunch. I have found that when you apply the clear while the enamel is still wet it won't wrinkle like it will when dry because it is still liquid and without a skin to wrinkle it just mixes. also you can apply enamel on top of dry laquer but not laquer on dry enamel. after the last coat of clear let it dry completely and then polish it to the desired lustre. the advantage of this system is that it will look like the factory laquer paint because it is laquer. if you use car paint it doesn't look quite right. I don't know about elsewhere but here in California you cant get car paint in laquer. oddly it is available in the touch up spray cans. also oddly the touch up paint will wrinkle if you use it and let it dry before the clear coat, so if you use it follow the same procedure just in case. usually bikes were painted fairly basic colors so you can often find an exact or near exact match. look at the blue bike I posted and notice that the fenders are original paint and the color match is exact. I bought the blue from wal-mart for .94¢ a can. the cream isn't quite as perfect but is very close and also came from wal-mart. you might practise on something less critical before starting on something important. remember you can always strip it down and start over if you mess up.


----------



## militarymonark (Jul 20, 2006)

you know that seems the cheapest route. So I think I'll start on my dads 52 shelby But I do need to chrome the spring, strut bars, etc.... I was wondering if anyone had some templates for the darts they could send me over email. Also when you paint the darts on the bike, could explain that in better detail maybe with some pictures in such thanks


----------



## sam (Jul 20, 2006)

If the original paint patern can be seen---go to an Art supply store and ask for mylar paint mask.Cut and peel a bit to cover what you want.Stick it on.Use a fine line marker /pin to trace the patern.Peel the mylar--put on a white copy paper and save.Take photos of bike.Draw a pic of the bike showing measurements where the paint mask should go.save all the pics and photos.clean and paint the bike.find the paterns ,photos,and drawings you saved.place the patern on your table cover with glass ,peel and stick a new piece of mylar mask on the glass---usa an excto knife and cut the patern,put it on as per your drawing/check photo.and paint!


----------



## militarymonark (Jul 20, 2006)

well actually my dad repainted the bike a different color back in the 70's and so i dont have the old paint but I do have the dart on the front fork since I replaced it. So I need templates for a shelby 52a boys if anyone has them to share


----------



## sideways (Jul 24, 2006)

This is a question Im pondering also.  Been told by a couple people do not powder coat or use any type of clear coat (for authentic restorations) .  Other than that...Im clueless.


----------



## 37fleetwood (Jul 24, 2006)

powder coat tends to look like plastic. and too much poly-eurathane clear is too glossy. the laquer in the rattle cans look just about right if you dont over do it.


----------



## sam (Jul 24, 2006)

I do beleave some paint jobs should look like Plastic---because the original paint was a Plastic.The wonderful rich colors of the 20s were Nitro-Cellulose(the original Plastic)Laquers.No longer sold!---sam


----------

