# Removing Those Tiny Front Badge Screws?



## mickeyc (Mar 24, 2016)

How and what tool?  I have eyeglass screwdrivers that are small enough but these screws are in tight.


Mike


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## SirMike1983 (Mar 24, 2016)

I have a quality gunsmith's screwdriver set for such small screws as this. The bits are very small, precise, and well-made.


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## rideahiggins (Mar 24, 2016)

A good quality screw driver and sometimes a light wrap with a hammer, driving the screw driver into the screw slot. Sometimes it helps jar stuff loose.


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## bricycle (Mar 24, 2016)

Spread out a big white sheet, so when one falls (and it will) it won't bounce. If one falls to the hard floor you may NEVER find it....


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## catfish (Mar 24, 2016)

It's got a lot to do with the screw driver. It can't be a cheap one that the tip of the blade will bend or twist. I've been using the same one for over 20 years. I just wish I bought more than one when I got it. I haven't been able to find another one.


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## Andrew Gorman (Mar 24, 2016)

I go at them like I will only have one chance.  Make sure the slot is cleaned out and square.  If it is messed up I break out the Otivisor and a Dremel cutting disk and square it up.  If it's a rivet (most of them are drive screws) I use the Dremel to cut a screwdriver slot.You should have used some petrating oil a day or two before.  Then find a screwdriver tht really fits the slot- the slot should be filled completely-no slop, no wiggle room, no light showing through.  Then it should pop right out.  Ever since I got obsessive about preparation I have not had a problem.


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## mickeyc (Mar 25, 2016)

Thanks for all the replies....will go at it today.


Mike


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## rustjunkie (Mar 25, 2016)

As said above the right size tool is important, I have an old Craftsman Professional that fits most of them well.
I usually seat the driver, then gently nudge the screw left and right to free it up before the full turns.


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## momo608 (Mar 25, 2016)

Speaking of these screws. Has anyone found a nice replacement for the originals? I have been buying them from the guy on ebay selling NOS screws at high prices because I don't like the pan heads as a replacement. We are talking Schwinn style round head screws right?

I use a screwdriver that was in a tool kit for a flak 38. Try finding one of those!


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## bairdco (Mar 25, 2016)

I've found tiny brass screws at Mcfadden-Dale Industrial Fasteners in Santa Ana, CA for about a nickel each.

Most industrial fastener places should have what you need. Google it and find one in your area. A good shop will have every type of nut and bolt you could ever need, for pennies.

To get old screws out, I make sure the slot is clean of paint and rust, usually just by running a knife blade thru it, then I use a small snap-on pocket screwdriver I've owned since working at a gas station 25 years ago.


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## Metacortex (Mar 25, 2016)

momo608 said:


> Speaking of these screws. Has anyone found a nice replacement for the originals?




The headbadge screws for '60s and '70s Schwinns are No. 2-32 x 1/8" round head type "B" sheet metal screws.


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## CrazyDave (Mar 25, 2016)

Well, a gunsmithing tool woulda worked best, I didn't even consider that.  I took a small screwdriver they give ya with Stihl yard equipment and ground it to the right size. I take the bare frame and sit it head tube down flat and make a lil lake of PB blaster  in there so it soaks the other side of the screws overnight.  Works great so far.


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## momo608 (Mar 25, 2016)

I have checked with a couple industrial fastener places like McMaster Carr and Fastenal which are probably the best out there. Searched the web and looked at I don't know how many fastener sources. Found nothing that looks like the high dome on these screws in the #2 sheet metal screw size. They are unique.


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## GTs58 (Mar 25, 2016)

momo608 said:


> I have checked with a couple industrial fastener places like McMaster Carr and Fastenal which are probably the best out there. Searched the web and looked at I don't know how many fastener sources. Found nothing that looks like the high dome on these screws in the #2 sheet metal screw size. *They are unique*.




They are an old outdated screw style. *Round head slotted screws* are a thing of the past, especially the ones in this application. Might get lucky at an old, really old hardware store. The standard sheet metal screw used today is the Philips pan head.


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## Boris (Mar 25, 2016)

On a similar note, when replacing screws, poke 'em into a piece of paper first, that gives you something to grab on to while you're screwing them in. when nearly tight, rip the paper away. I forget who on the CABE suggested that, but it's a great tip.


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## momo608 (Mar 26, 2016)

GTs58 said:


> They are an old outdated screw style. *Round head slotted screws* are a thing of the past, especially the ones in this application. Might get lucky at an old, really old hardware store. The standard sheet metal screw used today is the Philips pan head.




This is as close as I have found. Meets the other specs but the head height is off. Better than nothing but they don't look right.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/product_specifications/SMS.RSL.B.SS.pdf

OOOPs, looks like these are no longer available anyway. I have been down this road about a year ago, I am remembering why I started buying those NOS screws. The plating on those NOS screws is not as nice as the picture above would indicate. They look dark. 

And BTW, who ever invented the combo head screw should be shot on sight.


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## vincev (Mar 26, 2016)

Dave Marko said:


> On a similar note, when replacing screws, poke 'em into a piece of paper first, that gives you something to grab on to while you're screwing them in. when nearly tight, rip the paper away. I forget who on the CABE suggested that, but it's a great tip.



Great idea Dave.


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## Gordon (Mar 26, 2016)

When screwdrivers fail, I use a 1/4 inch wide wood chisel. The blade end is thin and sharp and it has a full size handle to get a good grip on.


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## bairdco (Mar 26, 2016)

I've found the brass dome heads and the brass flat heads used on a lot of old bikes, but never looked for the steel schwinn type, 'cause I never had a schwinn with a badge. 

Next time I go to Mcfadden-Dale I'll see if they have any. The store has a lot more stuff than the website.


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## mickeyc (Mar 26, 2016)

Got them out in good shape...thanks for all the suggestions.  Used an old screwdriver with the blade ground sharp, set it in the slot, gave it a tap with a hammer and they came out fine.

Mike


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## Duck (Apr 7, 2016)

bricycle said:


> Spread out a big white sheet, so when one falls (and it will) it won't bounce. If one falls to the hard floor you may NEVER find it....



I use a large magnet with a layer of masking tape over it to prevent paint damage- I stick it to frame as close to the screws as possible- never lost one since I've been doing it this way.


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## CrazyDave (Apr 7, 2016)

I grabbed a razor blade the other day to clean out the tiny slot hole of the screws and found that the backside of the blade was perfect for taking them out like a screwdriver.   Razor blades are brittle and will snap...not for the safety conscious.


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## ram.1950 (May 31, 2016)

I see there is a seller on eBay now that is selling the drive screws - has threads like a screw but no slot. I've taken out many of these and kept them.

I bought a cheapo set of screwdrivers and a couple mini vise grips at a local TSC. The largest screwdriver is huge - longer than any Craftsman Screwdriver I ever got in a set. After the fork and headset including cups are removed I take one corner of the straight slot blade and put it against the back end of the drive pin while holding the screwdriver against the opposite inside of the head tube. Applying rearward pressure on the screwdriver (which in turn puts forward pressure on the back of the drive pin) hit the screwdriver shaft one solid rap. If the screwdriver corner blade wasn't centered on the tip of the drive pin it may slip off and damage the tip making it even more difficult to try again. If everything was in position correctly the drive pin should have moved forward out the hole a little. Repeat this process till you can no longer reach the tip with the screwdriver. At this point there should be enough of the head sticking out to clamp the mini vise grip on - do not touch the paint or frame with the vise grip. Since these drive pins are threaded like screws turn counter clockwise slowly as you pull the pin outward. After you've done this once it's a piece of cake and now I have drive pins for my badges.


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## OhioJones (Jun 6, 2016)

Glad to see this thread. I have a partial remaining in my CT frame. Haha. Drill it out...whatever. But, I managed to pickup a few tips for installing the replacements. Much obliged for the knowledge.


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## the tinker (Jun 6, 2016)

I have found the screwdriver blade in a couple old pocket knives I have are perfect for the Schwinn badge screws.
As far as a supply for the screws and rivets; when I would spot an old bike on the curb going to the garbage dump I would take it for any parts I could. The badge screws was always top on the list. The butt female end of a long 3/8th's socket ratchet extension also works well for prying out rivets. If you look into the head tube they protrude just enough to pry up.  The square nose end electrician's pliers works well to grasp the rivet and twist them out after they are pried up a bit with the bar.
Used to see lots of 50's 60's bikes out on the curb back in the day.  Always carried a 7/8th's open end wrench in my truck to quickly remove the grips if I didn't want to take the whole bike. Two hits with a hammer and the most stubborn grip  pops off without damage....try it.
Rotten shame how many nice headbadges have been ruined by someone too lazy to unscrew them or figure out how to pry up a rivet. 
I have learned to place some masking tape over the face of the badge before I attempt to install or unscrew the screws or rivets....nothing ruins a day like a scratched badge on your finished project.


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