# schwinn phantom restoration paint help



## sfhschwinn (Jul 16, 2014)

Hello fellow Schwinners! I am restoring a black phantom for a friend (I said to leave the paint because its original but he wanted it re-painted, the only thing that will be original on the bike is the tank paint and the wheels which I got on ebay as the originals were to pitted and the back wasn't original anyway). I have gathered as many original parts on ebay as I can (wheels, front fender, tank , horn ect.) I am using some repo parts such as the fender screw rivets and reflectors until I can find originals. I have never painted a bike with two tone colors and have never pin stripped. I bought the phantom restoration book http://www.restoreclassicbicycles.com/index2.html I know there are several here that have restored phantoms and b6's here and would appreciate any help they can give. I am particularly looking for help with the painting. I am assuming I should head to Sherwin Williams and use the Schwinn color codes from them. Here are a few questions if any one can answer
1. what is the best way to do the two tone paint on the frame( I have the stencils from the book but am curious if there is a better way
2. best brushes for pin stripping and where to buy them
3. how many coats of paint. I am doing 4 coats of primer.
4. should I clear coat the bike at all and if so should it be done before or after I apply the decals.

Thanks for the help!!!!


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## GTs58 (Jul 16, 2014)

Why so many coats of primer? One good coat of the red oxide should do it and then maybe some touch up after sanding. Rattle can primer is pretty thin if that's what you are using, so more than one coat may be needed. Having a thick coat of primer or paint is never a good thing.


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Jul 16, 2014)

Schwinn didn't drench the bikes in primer or paint for that matter.. you are basically using it to fill then sanding most of it to almost off but leaving enough to hold paint.  I wouldn't use a clear coat.. makes it to candy like.


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## Sped Man (Jul 16, 2014)

You have your hands full with that bad boy. I hope he didn't pay that much for it. These bad boys don't retail well when restored. Especially if they are filled with repop parts and buying original parts can be tricky and expensive.


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## SJ_BIKER (Jul 16, 2014)

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you can clear coat it but itll crack/with time and get hazy.... id paint it with no clear...finding nice original parts for these is getting to be a tough task....repop is ok....but i like to gather all my parts....build before any stripping and painting....that way if stuff does not fit you can get replacements before spending time stripping and painting stuff that will be no good for the project.....stencils are cool..... as for stripping....you can do it....but practice alot before trying it on a bike


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## sfhschwinn (Jul 17, 2014)

Thanks for the help so far. I am using rattle can so the coats are very thin. The entire job including finding replacement original parts, painting and doing the chrome is about $1400. My friend found this bike in a basement about 30yrs ago and he put it in someone else's basement where it sat for the past 20yrs and he forgot he owned it. He is very attached to it and has no intention of felling it since it has a lot of sentimental value. the only repop parts on it are the reflectors, light battery tray, front fender light glass, fender rivets/ a few bolts, and the decals. I made sure to only buy original parts. The total cost for all the parts + a Bob U seat restoration was about $900. I did suggest that he just get one in original condition for that money and keep this one as is or sell it.


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## Ozark Flyer (Jul 17, 2014)

Whenever possible I like to spray the darker color over the lighter color.  (Black over red.).  The only option to the stencil set is to layout the darts by hand.  Use the stencils if you don't have the artistic ability for hand layout work.  If you want to try hand pinstriping a #1 Mack Sword will get the job done.  If you have no experience with that I would recommend 1/8" white pinstriping tape and a razor blade.  With repopped parts and rattlecanpaint, no one will be offended if you use pinstripe tape.  I agree with the others, no clear coat. The original paint did not have a clear coat.  Use water transfer decals not vinyl stickers.  Use Microsol setting solution to set the decals into the paint.  Bam! You're done.


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## Freqman1 (Jul 17, 2014)

I would generally agree to paint the lighter color first but this is not how Schwinn did it. The black was shot first with the red on top. I'd go single stage with a hardner and no clear coat. Unless you've done pin striping before I suggest finding a good striper to do this and save yourself some grief.  As far as cost goes if it has sentimental value then that shouldn't matter too much. Good luck with the project. V/r Shawn


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## sfhschwinn (Jul 17, 2014)

Thanks everyone! I have a steady hand and will try pin striping on old garbage parts before I work on the bike. I will be doing the red first as that is what the stencil set was made to do red then black. I am not doing a clear coat since Schwinn did not do that as per everyone's advice. The decals are water transfer that I bought from bicycle bones on eBay.


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## Ozark Flyer (Jul 17, 2014)

*Pin Vid*

Here is a YouTube video from DJShakes on pin striping frame darts.  It may help you.

http://youtu.be/Zyphy6SuIQM


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