# seat post issue....help!!!



## jd56 (Oct 12, 2012)

I have this all original 60s Western Flyer "Sabre Flyer" that some morron replaced the seat tube with a galvanized gas pipe. Can you beleive this

Now I can't get the dang thing out. I have tried a pipe wrench, seemed the most logical way to remove it but, it won't budge.
heating it is an issue as I'm not sure I can get the galvanized pipe hot enough to make it contract. Plus the original paint needs to be salvaged.

Help me please figure out this dilemma.










JD


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 12, 2012)

The seat post is stuck in the frame, or in the saddle?

If you're ditching that pipe and it's stuck in the frame, my approach would be to drill a hole through the pipe with a carbide bit, then run a solid rod through the hole. It needs to be big enough to apply force but small enough not to break the seat pipe. Seep in Kano Kroil for awhile at point where the seat pipe goes into the frame. If you don't want to use heat, you may want to let the Kroil soak in a few days or a week (could go more if you wanted to). I prefer Kroil to anything commercially available. [I have seen wonders done with 50/50 Automatic Trans. Fluid and acetone, but you have to consider the paint factor here] Cover up the paint to try and minimize the mess, spill over onto it of anything. Then take the bar running through the pipe and twist a bit while pulling up.


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## jpromo (Oct 12, 2012)

Wow, that's.. interesting! The best luck I usually have with seat posts is to get it down to a frame and clamp the seat post upside down in a vice. This allows you to use the whole frame as leverage to wriggle it out. If it doesn't budge, you can pull the BB and put some oil or PB blaster down the seat tube, leaving it upside down, and try again later. Also, if you have a small handheld propane torch, it might be easier to heat without worry about damaging your paint.


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## jd56 (Oct 12, 2012)

SirMike1983 said:


> The seat post is stuck in the frame, or in the saddle?
> 
> If you're ditching that pipe and it's stuck in the frame, my approach would be to drill a hole through the pipe with a carbide bit, then run a solid rod through the hole. It needs to be big enough to apply force but small enough not to break the seat pipe. Seep in Kano Kroil for awhile at point where the seat pipe goes into the frame. If you don't want to use heat, you may want to let the Kroil soak in a few days or a week (could go more if you wanted to). I prefer Kroil to anything commercially available. [I have seen wonders done with 50/50 Automatic Trans. Fluid and acetone, but you have to consider the paint factor here] Cover up the paint to try and minimize the mess, spill over onto it of anything. Then take the bar running through the pipe and twist a bit while pulling up.




yeah it's the seat tube that is the problem and do plan on ditching the pipe. Actually I'd like to use the remains once removed on the idiot that hammered it into the frame.
The seat is fine and the nipped pipe there is removeable.

I will look into that Kroil ideal. Never heard of the stuff. Where should I purchase this Kona Kroil from? Is it a penetrating oil / lubricant?

Thanks Mike


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 12, 2012)

jd56 said:


> yeah it's the seat tube that is the problem and do plan on ditching the pipe. Actually I'd like to use the remains once removed on the idiot that hammered it into the frame.
> The seat is fine and the nipped pipe there is removeable.
> 
> I will look into that Kroil ideal. Never heard of the stuff. Where should I purchase this Kona Kroil from? Is it a penetrating oil / lubricant?
> ...





Places that deal in firearms repair supplies may have it. Online you can get it through MidwayUSA or other suppliers. 

An edition of Machinists' Workshop Magazine dealt with freeing stuck parts/bolts. It found:

No treatment: 516 pounds force to free 
WD40: 238 pounds 
PB Blaster: 214 pounds 
Liquid Wrench: 127 pounds
Kano Kroil: 106 pounds 
50/50 ATF-Acetone mix: 53 pounds 


The 50/50 ATF-Acetone is pretty brilliant stuff, but the acetone is going to attack that paint.

Kroil and Liquid Wrench are my go-to choices for freeing stuff in terms of commercial products.


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