# All about the Whizzer h motor! Please post all info!



## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

I just wanted to start this thread to post all the info about the h motor such a dimensions and upgrades or anything that has to do with this specific motor because I couldn't find what I needed so hopefully this will help someone! I hope others post whatever they have as well. Thanks to anyone who helps!


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Ok here are some of my dimensions for the intake manifold. Intake port on manifold is .76" without the restrictor bushing. Restrictor bushing dimensions are .755" od by .575" id by 1.7" long. The mounting flange is 1.325" long by 1.25" at the center of the intake port and it tapers down to .575" at the mounting studs and the studs are .25" and the threads are 1/4 28 fine threads and the studs stick out .575" with the gasket on the mounting flange. Dimensions from outside of stud to outside of stud is 1.875" and inside to inside is 1.4" and center to center is 1.65". These numbers may vary but this is what I got on my motor. The ml5b carb dimensions are intake opening .697" and air filter/choke opening .875". Bolt holes .265" and outside bolt hole to outside bolt hole 1.89". Inside of bolt hole to inside of bolt hole 1.335". Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole 1.6". Mounting flange 2.37" long by 1.1" wide at center of intake port and it tapers down to .575" at the mounting holes.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Exhaust flange dimensions are .65" diameter exhaust port. Mounting flange is 1.95" long by 1.15" wide at center of port hole And it tapers to .575" where the bolt holes are. Inside of bolt hole to inside of bolt hole 1.275". Outside of bolt hole to outside of bolt hole 1.575". Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole 1.425". The threaded bolt hole diameter is .15" don't know what the threads are but I will post it when I find out unless someone else posts it. 

The oil drain plug is 1/8 27 npt. And it holds 6oz of oil and uses straight 30wt oil. If I'm wrong about the oil amount and weight please correct me.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Clutch bracket dimensions on the clutch arm. .285" diameter for ball end of cable. .075" slot for wire to slide in to. .17" diameter where the ball seats in the arm. .285 diameter goes .72" deep then .17" diameter goes .3" the rest of the way through the arm and the overall length is 1.02".


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Flywheel is 6.5" od and the pulley on the flywheel is 2.5" od. Flywheel pulley to clutch pulley 5.125" od. Clutch pulley to sheave 3.625" od. All the pulleys are 5/16" if I'm wrong please correct me. And use ax belts ax26 and ax62 but that can vary depending on the bike. The clutch pulley has a Norma 9017 dd bearing and the dimensions are 1.575" od .668" id .545" wide it also has a bushing that goes on the id of the bearing and the dimensions of the bushing .666" od by .5" id by .545 long.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Whizzer h motor tank inlet dimensions are 1.94" from slot to slot and .75" are the length of the slots and .25" deep for the tabs to lock into. The inside diameter of the tank opening is 1.5". The length of the tank is 14.5" not including the mounting brackets. The brackets stick out .375 or 3/8" on both ends making the overall length with the brackets 15.25". The height of the tank is 6" and the width is 6.5" and the nipple for the sediment bowl is 1/8" 27 npt sticking out of the bottom of the tank. The indentation in the tank that goes over the frame to mount the tank the dimensions are a little over 1" wide by 2 7/8" deep at the front and it tapers down to 1" at the back. The front being closest to the fill hole and the handlebars and the back is closest to the seat.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Magneto cover part# wmh-2603 the bolts that hold it on are 1.5" overall length and 1.25" is threaded 1/4 20 threads. It has rubber spacers but I'm not sure they are needed but I used a nylon spacer .45" od .25" id .25" length. I'm guessing they are used to prevent from overtightened the cover and breaking the cover.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 23, 2020)

Mine had a champion j10 plug in it when I got it. I saw that you can use a j6 j8 or j10 or any cross reference to those plugs and the gap should be set to 23-25.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 24, 2020)

The bolt that holds the clutch pulley to the clutch arm is 1/2" 13 threads 1.5" of threads and 1.875" overall. The bolt that holds the flywheel on is 3/8" 24 left hand threads with 1" of threads and 1.25" overall length and has a thick washer and a locking washer.


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## Chiptosser (Jan 27, 2020)

I knew the newer engines had a restrictor tube in the intake, I have not seen a restrictor in the originals!


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## wordman5 (Jan 28, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Ok here are some of my dimensions for the intake manifold. Intake port on manifold is .76" without the restrictor bushing. Restrictor bushing dimensions are .755" od by .575" i.d. by 1.7" long. The mounting flange is 1.325" long by 1.25" at the center of the intake port and it tapers down to .575" at the mounting studs and the studs are .25" and the threads are 1/4 28 fine threads and the studs stick out .575" with the gasket on the mounting flange. Dimensions from outside of stud to outside of stud is 1.875" and inside to inside is 1.4" and center to center is 1.65". These numbers may vary but this is what I got on my motor. The ml5b carb dimensions are intake opening .697" and air filter/choke opening .875". Bolt holes .265" and outside bolt hole to outside bolt hole 1.89". Inside of bolt hole to inside of bolt hole 1.335". Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole 1.6". Mounting flange 2.37" long by 1.1" wide at center of intake port and it tapers down to .575" at the mounting holes.
> 
> View attachment 1128856
> 
> ...



Really appreciate the work you're putting into this thread! I just got another Whizzer and was myself very surprised to see that restrictor sleeve. I don't recall seeing in any of the other Whizzer engines I've had. Are you going to re-install yours? To all other Whizzer enthusiasts -- can we just eliminate the restrictor without having to make other alterations to the Tilottson ML5B?


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## Goldenrod (Jan 28, 2020)

The flow of gas through the carb needs the "restrictor".  That is why it was put there, but people who did not understand its use, took them out.  Joe Cargola makes an easy glide set up that makes the bike easier to build and ride.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 29, 2020)

I'm going to install it in mine but others have said that they don't have it installed and never mentioned having any problems with it running any different. If I decide to get a Chinese carb as a back up or to just play around with it to see what differences I can get out of it or just to see how it will run I'm not going to install it with the Chinese carb. I don't even have mine running yet I'm still working on it. When I get more information I will post it. I might try it with and without the restrictor when I get it running just to post the results and difference between it in or out with the ml5b carb and the Chinese carb. So others that aren't that specific on keeping it original can use the info or just want to try different things and might not want to put a lot of money into it. I'm just trying to get it running for now and not interested in it being 100 percent correct because it was missing a lot of parts and the parts are hard to find and really expensive. If anyone knows the bolt length and threads for the exhaust I would really appreciate the info because mine is missing the exhaust manifold. I thought they were 10-24 threads but I'm not positive and I was hoping someone could post the info that has the original bolts.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 30, 2020)

The bolt that holds the clutch arm to the motor is .875" overall length and .625" thread length and a washer but the washer on it doesn't allow the cover to sit flush on mine. The threads are 5/16 18. The 9 head bolts are all the same length 1.5" overall length and 1.25" from bolt head to end of threads and .875" of it is threaded. Every bolt has a .1" thick washer and the threads are 5/16 18. Head gasket is .0625" thick and the bolt holes are .325". Oil breather gasket 1.2" wide at center of bore 1.59" long and bolt holes are .2" diameter. Bore diameter .75" with a notch in it. See picture. I can't seem to find any head gaskets or anyone on here willing to point me in the right direction so I'm going to make my own. I got a 12" x 28" x .0625 sheet of fel-pro 2499 for $13.99 plus tax and I will be able to make a lot of gaskets for the exhaust and head gasket. I probably would have paid more for 1 head gasket than I did for a sheet to make a lot of gaskets. I'm going to use the cutout center of the head gasket to make the exhaust gasket and I'm probably going to have to make my own exhaust because I can't find a manifold. It's just time consuming but I can't find any. so I hope this can help someone else in my predicament.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 31, 2020)

I was taking some more dimensions. The dimensions of the long mounting bar and brackets that attaches to the motor so you can mount it to the bike. I put it in a PDF file in case someone needs to make one they can print it and cut one page at the mark and tape it together at the marks to fabricate a new one. Hope it helps someone. I know I already posted it on someone's thread about the bar but I also wanted it to be on this thread so you can just come to one place to find everything you need to find out about the Whizzer h motor and not have to search for hour. I don't know if the same bar was used for the d,e,f,j,300,700 etc. Or of it changed over time. The picture shows what is in the PDF file.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 31, 2020)

Here is a great PDF file for making your own head gasket for the h motor that I made! I didn't make an exhaust gasket printout yet because I don't have an original gasket so I'm going to have to make one by using the dimensions of the exhaust manifold. The picture shows what is in the PDF file. It's just a printout of the gasket to make your own. I'm sure it will help someone! PDF gasket2 has just the gasket blacked out and PDF gasket has all 3 of my cutouts. Gasket2 is the best one if you just need the gasket outline. The bolt holes are .325" diameter. If someone has a PDF file of the exhaust gasket that would be great to add but nobody seems to be posting here so I imagine I will have to make one. Good luck!


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 31, 2020)

Here is a scan I did of the head gasket and oil breather gasket and ML5B carb kit all in 1 PDF file if you want to make your own gaskets! PDF file has the intake manifold and bowl gasket and 4 other gaskets for the carb! They are all original size so you can make your own! The black o ring is .25" od and .110" Id and is .070" thick. The small and medium orange gaskets are .032" thick and the large orange gasket is .048" thick. I'm going to use fel-pro 3046 for the bowl gasket and the intake manifold and oil breather gasket. I'm not saying that you should use the same thing I do I'm just letting people know what I'm going to do in all my posts. I hope a lot of people get use out of this info and files if it helps you please post something so I don't feel like I did all this for nothing! Thanks for checking out the thread!


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 31, 2020)

This isn't really info about the h motor but her are the dimensions of the clutch spring for the h motor so it relates. The overall length of the spring is 3.825" and the length of the 24 coils is 2.675 and the hooks on the end of the spring is offset. It might be the same spring for other motors as well. I just cleaned mine up a little bit not looking for perfection because I want to ride it not a show piece and I don't have the money to make it look like a show piece either. I also attached some pictures of the clutch handle before I cleaned it up just in case someone needs to see something on it. The clutch lever slot for the cable is .090" wide and the bore is .190 for the ball on the clutch cable to sit in. I just realized that you can just add a thumbnail instead of the whole picture so it won't take up as much space on the thread! My bad!View attachment 1132939

View attachment 1132940







View attachment 1132939

View attachment 1132940


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 31, 2020)

ML series carb info it was distributed by tillotson and I don't want to copyright I'm just putting it out there. If the info isn't allowed then the moderators can remove it. I just got this info so anyone that can use it I hope it helps!


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## Philliesfan30m (Feb 3, 2020)

Here are the dimensions of the E bar or E bracket for the magneto. I'm going to try and find a replacement coil for it. Does anyone know where you can get them or if a coil from a different magneto will fit?


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## Philliesfan30m (Feb 11, 2020)

So here is what I'm going to use as a spare magneto. I don't know if it will work but I'm going to give it a try when I get it running. It's an original E bracket with a Tecumseh coil. It's not pretty but I used a file to remove .1" and .025" from the center of the coil where the center of the E bracket attaches to the coil because it was .4" by .4" square and I needed it to be be .425" by .5" and I haven't decided yet how I'm going to attach it yet probably something that I can remove easily so I can change it if it goes bad. It even comes with a spark plugs wire that is long enough to reach the plug without any modifications I think. I didn't install it on the motor but I think it will reach but for the $ I couldn't go wrong with trying it out. I just couldn't see myself spending over $100 for one to put on a bike that is never going to be a show bike or all original. I just want to ride it! Think it will work?


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## Philliesfan30m (Feb 11, 2020)

Here is a PDF file to use as a template if you need to make your own exhaust gasket or the points and condenser cover gasket. I posted a picture of what is in the PDF file. Hope it helps someone!


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## Lynchwrench (Feb 22, 2020)

What was wrong with the old coil? And are you using points?


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## Lynchwrench (Feb 22, 2020)

Get a copy of these books.


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## Philliesfan30m (Feb 23, 2020)

Lynchwrench said:


> What was wrong with the old coil? And are you using points?



Nothing is wrong with the old coil or the original spark plug I just cleaned it up. I'm using an ignition module. I turned the motor over with a drill and have excellent blue spark not even spinning it fast. I just wanted to see if I could get a different coil to work so I have a spare. I don't mind paying for those manuals but I don't think that it's right the price some people are selling them for when all they are doing is copying them!


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## Lynchwrench (Feb 24, 2020)

Makes sense to me..


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## MonsieurP (Jul 9, 2020)

I just bought a Whizzer H. I wasn't able to get it going. I've ordered a electronic ignition module. My question was this. 
In order to have the engine properly timed. Is there markings (or the hole might be a good reference point) on the flywheel that need to be at a particular position (something o'clock) in order to get it to fire properly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## redline1968 (Jul 9, 2020)

Here this might help


MonsieurP said:


> I just bought a Whizzer H. I wasn't able to get it going. I've ordered a electronic ignition module. My question was this.
> In order to have the engine properly timed. Is there markings (or the hole might be a good reference point) on the flywheel that need to be at a particular position (something o'clock) in order to get it to fire properly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## redline1968 (Jul 9, 2020)




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## MonsieurP (Jul 9, 2020)

Thank you Red. That's so helpfull. Can't wait to  get into this.


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Clutch bracket dimensions on the clutch arm. .285" diameter for ball end of cable. .075" slot for wire to slide in to. .17" diameter where the ball seats in the arm. .285 diameter goes .72" deep then .17" diameter goes .3" the rest of the way through the arm and the overall length is 1.02".
> 
> View attachment 1128869
> 
> ...




I put an upgrade, easy glide clutch arm on all my bikes.  On long ride your hand gets too tired.


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> This isn't really info about the h motor but her are the dimensions of the clutch spring for the h motor so it relates. The overall length of the spring is 3.825" and the length of the 24 coils is 2.675 and the hooks on the end of the spring is offset. It might be the same spring for other motors as well. I just cleaned mine up a little bit not looking for perfection because I want to ride it not a show piece and I don't have the money to make it look like a show piece either. I also attached some pictures of the clutch handle before I cleaned it up just in case someone needs to see something on it. The clutch lever slot for the cable is .090" wide and the bore is .190 for the ball on the clutch cable to sit in. I just realized that you can just add a thumbnail instead of the whole picture so it won't take up as much space on the thread! My bad!View attachment 1132939
> 
> View attachment 1132940
> 
> ...




You need make a wooden handle and a wire hook to pull the spring and put it where you want it.


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Ok here are some of my dimensions for the intake manifold. Intake port on manifold is .76" without the restrictor bushing. Restrictor bushing dimensions are .755" od by .575" i.d. by 1.7" long. The mounting flange is 1.325" long by 1.25" at the center of the intake port and it tapers down to .575" at the mounting studs and the studs are .25" and the threads are 1/4 28 fine threads and the studs stick out .575" with the gasket on the mounting flange. Dimensions from outside of stud to outside of stud is 1.875" and inside to inside is 1.4" and center to center is 1.65". These numbers may vary but this is what I got on my motor. The ml5b carb dimensions are intake opening .697" and air filter/choke opening .875". Bolt holes .265" and outside bolt hole to outside bolt hole 1.89". Inside of bolt hole to inside of bolt hole 1.335". Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole 1.6". Mounting flange 2.37" long by 1.1" wide at center of intake port and it tapers down to .575" at the mounting holes.
> 
> View attachment 1128856
> 
> ...




This is known as a restrictor but it directs the flow into the carb.  The engine needs it to run well.


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Whizzer h motor tank inlet dimensions are 1.94" from slot to slot and .75" are the length of the slots and .25" deep for the tabs to lock into. The inside diameter of the tank opening is 1.5". The length of the tank is 14.5" not including the mounting brackets. The brackets stick out .375 or 3/8" on both ends making the overall length with the brackets 15.25". The height of the tank is 6" and the width is 6.5" and the nipple for the sediment bowl is 1/8" 27 npt sticking out of the bottom of the tank. The indentation in the tank that goes over the frame to mount the tank the dimensions are a little over 1" wide by 2 7/8" deep at the front and it tapers down to 1" at the back. The front being closest to the fill hole and the handlebars and the back is closest to the seat.
> 
> View attachment 1128880
> 
> View attachment 1128881




When you turn this tight it may break.  We have Joe Cargola weld these parts and the top clips in because if they break while painted . . . .


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> This isn't really info about the h motor but her are the dimensions of the clutch spring for the h motor so it relates. The overall length of the spring is 3.825" and the length of the 24 coils is 2.675 and the hooks on the end of the spring is offset. It might be the same spring for other motors as well. I just cleaned mine up a little bit not looking for perfection because I want to ride it not a show piece and I don't have the money to make it look like a show piece either. I also attached some pictures of the clutch handle before I cleaned it up just in case someone needs to see something on it. The clutch lever slot for the cable is .090" wide and the bore is .190 for the ball on the clutch cable to sit in. I just realized that you can just add a thumbnail instead of the whole picture so it won't take up as much space on the thread! My bad!View attachment 1132939
> 
> View attachment 1132940
> 
> ...


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Exhaust flange dimensions are .65" diameter exhaust port. Mounting flange is 1.95" long by 1.15" wide at center of port hole And it tapers to .575" where the bolt holes are. Inside of bolt hole to inside of bolt hole 1.275". Outside of bolt hole to outside of bolt hole 1.575". Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole 1.425". The threaded bolt hole diameter is .15" don't know what the threads are but I will post it when I find out unless someone else posts it.
> 
> The oil drain plug is 1/8 27 npt. And it holds 6oz of oil and uses straight 30wt oil. If I'm wrong about the oil amount and weight please correct me.
> 
> View attachment 1128865




8 oz. If you have a tall breather as on later models then more oil can be used.  The engine should have more oil but it needed to clear both peddles so that is the best that they could do?  Needle bearing crank was a fix for low oil but the three piece adjustment is also a problem.  Solid is better?  Non detergent was the standard in these years so the sludge would collect in the bottom.  Modern auto oil filters take detergent oil so the sludge is carried to the filter.  Do you want your sludge to be carried around to your bearings in an unfiltered engine?  Detergent oil is best.  Synthetic oil is too thin and it leaks?  Use aviation fuel if you live near an airport.  It is gas most like the 1940's.  Some guys add Castor oil to the gas for the lead-type  lubercation that was in 1950's fuel.


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Whizzer h motor tank inlet dimensions are 1.94" from slot to slot and .75" are the length of the slots and .25" deep for the tabs to lock into. The inside diameter of the tank opening is 1.5". The length of the tank is 14.5" not including the mounting brackets. The brackets stick out .375 or 3/8" on both ends making the overall length with the brackets 15.25". The height of the tank is 6" and the width is 6.5" and the nipple for the sediment bowl is 1/8" 27 npt sticking out of the bottom of the tank. The indentation in the tank that goes over the frame to mount the tank the dimensions are a little over 1" wide by 2 7/8" deep at the front and it tapers down to 1" at the back. The front being closest to the fill hole and the handlebars and the back is closest to the seat.
> 
> View attachment 1128880
> 
> View attachment 1128881




The Works, used for toilets will clean out the inside of the tank.  After wallboard screws are shaken and emptied several times then a two part motorcycle tank epoxy is rolled around inside.  The bottom hole must be drilled out through the epoxy.


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## Goldenrod (Jul 12, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> Mine had a champion j10 plug in it when I got it. I saw that you can use a j6 j8 or j10 or any cross reference to those plugs and the gap should be set to 23-25.
> 
> View attachment 1128945




Any starting problem should suspect the plug because it is easy to test and eliminate.


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## eddy2dice (Oct 3, 2020)

Hi I’m trying to get a friends whizzer H running, 
It has no spark so have bought a module which unfortunately has no instructions.
I’m no electronics whizz so can anyone instruct me as a novice please?
Do I still use the condenser or does the module take the place of both points & condenser?
Also I believe there are two ways of wiring depending if it’s positive or negative earth, which one is the whizzer?
Thanks in advance, Eddy in rainy England!


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