# Trouble pulling cranksets- Help?



## Jesse McCauley (Jan 14, 2016)

I'm having a bit of trouble trying to pull these tandem cranksets for cleaning/regreasing. 

Anybody with experience with these Fauber-lookin cranksets care to chime in? 

Details so far: 
For rear set I have gotten a lockring out on the non-drive side but the bearing race that threads into the BB cup on the non-drive side won't back out as it is blocked by the 90 degree turn of the arm. 
A tap on the drive side shows that the whole crankset (including pressed in cups) does shift back and forth in the frame. 

Front set: the eccentric bottom bracket is loose, comes out 75% of the way towards the drive side but right when it seems like it should just shimmy out it seems to be stuck.

Any thoughts? Photos maybe? 

Are the arms separate pieces on this bad boy? I ask because on the drive side the crank arms match profile, the non-drive side however one is peaked and one is not.


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## rustjunkie (Jan 14, 2016)

Pics of the underside of the bottom bracket shell plz?


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## Jesse McCauley (Jan 14, 2016)

Its over at my LBS at the moment to get their two cents. I'll snap a shot tomorrow. 

They both have bolts to tighten down the bb shell.


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## Jesse McCauley (Jan 17, 2016)

it looks like im meant to drop a punch through that hole to hold the central spindle in place while I turn the crank arms from one another. A punch doesn't sit very snugly though so I'm still not sure how to go about securing them and separating 


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## thehugheseum (Jan 18, 2016)

im no expert but i think that hole is actually to adjust the eccentric,i have early tandem parts and the hole on the eccentric of the ones i have are definitely to adjust the eccentric


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## Jesse McCauley (Jan 18, 2016)

Hugh, any thoughts on how to remove the crank arms if that hole doesn't "lock" the spindle in place? 

The completely different designs of the two front arms tell me it is indeed made up of two different pieces but I have never severed such a connection before....I'm wary of damaging anything. 
There is a recess visible where a pin, when placed through the holes shown, sinks down into the spindle in an attempt to secure it, it just isn't a very secure. 
This "dimple" so to speak in the spindle is only visible when you rotate the crank arms to a particular position.


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## fordsnake (Jan 22, 2016)

With a flashlight, look into that hole next to the pitch bolt under the bottom. Slowly rotate the crank and see if there's a groove in the spindle. If so…it could be a three piece set much like a Pope hanger?


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## Jesse McCauley (Jan 22, 2016)

It is! I've been looking at it through the little peep hole and it is nearly identical to that set. How do you remove such a setup?


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## Jesse McCauley (Jan 22, 2016)

I'm convinced it is a pope split crank now that you've pointed me towards it. I'm glad to see it disassembled but with only a small hole to access I'm having a hard time catching it. Just so I am confident in my turning, if I do hold the center barrel do I turn the crank arm opposite drive? Would it work just to turn crank arms opposite one another? 


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## fordsnake (Jan 23, 2016)

Hey Jesse,

Pope offered an access hole with a cover on their frames (see attachments). Nevertheless your crankset might be based on the same principle design as the Pope? The spindle (the middle piece) has internal threads. The keyway must be held stationary with an appropriate key (a beefy screwdriver or a metal wedge?) something that 'll fit into that slot.  Then simultaneously rotate the crank arms counterclockwise, thereby unscrewing the arms from the center piece...volia! 

Carlton


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## Jesse McCauley (Sep 19, 2016)

An update folks!
These bottom brackets have become my friend, I have removed a few and am more comfortable with the style.
Now though I have a new problem. I need to swap out chain rings on one of these bad boys.
I have removed the "lock ring" on two of these arms but the chainwheel is on there good. 
Is it pressed on? Orrr something? 















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## Jesse McCauley (Sep 20, 2016)

To clarify the reason I am attempting such a thing, there was an early 20th century repair attempted on the captains crankset. The non drive side arm was replaced and the drive side arm was modified. This in effect maxed out my threading and adjustment range.
I have an identical set of crank arms in very good condition with a different chain ring, just need to figure out how to swap'm'up! 


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