# Mead specific questions.. and some fun pictures



## mzmichaela (Oct 27, 2014)

I just purchased a Mead Ranger (Frame #13614). I then took my life in my hands and pumped up the tires which have probably not had air in them in 30 years (they held air) and I have been bombing around on the bike. I'd love to know a couple of other things regarding this bike from those of you out there that might know..

** A couple interesting things that I cannot resolve is: The fork truss reinforcements are integral to the fork (see pics). Also, the rack looks a bit different than the curved one that I normally see on this model (although it looks like the one in the "Ranger-Superb" litterature - but the handlebars don't match to the drawing). The front fender doesn't protrude that far beyond the fork trusses (looks factory).

1.) Is this a 1916 era bike? I have gone though as many postings as I can but I just can't nail it down.. Who knows, maybe I am way off..

2.) The rims are in pretty nice shape. Only needing a little attention. My question is this. These seem to have a steel inner liner. How strong are these rims for use? I am a wood worker so I can splint/glue/graft or whatever is needed to keep the wood joints tight (if anything weird happens) but with some good reproduction tires on these wheels, will I have to ride the bike extremely carefully or can I ride around without worry? Is the steel reinforcement very strong and the majority of strength or just there to keep the spokes from pulling through? I realize I can build up a pair of modern clinchers with these or some other hubs but I would rather ride the bike in its original configuration if possible..

3.) Has a Sturmey Archer hub with a nifty kit to bolt a pulley to the top of the seat tube and a shift lever to the top tube (see pics).. I assume there is no way this was original equipment?

4.) Are those aftermarket leather over wood grips possibly original?

Thanks, very much for your time, Any help greatly appreciated.. Peter Z


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## Iverider (Oct 27, 2014)

Nice Mead. Looks like a schwinn built unit. Crank should have the date stamped on it.


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## josehuerta (Oct 27, 2014)

My opinion you scored. My guess is 1917-1919. Fenders, sprocket, saddle, grips, pedals, rack all correct. Tool kit, pump correct. Only thing that appears later is the style of the light fender bracket. Rims are nice, but I would be very careful if I rode them and you will blow the tires. Could only be better if it were a tall tank. Please part it and sell me all the parts.


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## bricycle (Oct 27, 2014)

Welcome PZ.
With the flat fenders, that year sounds about right.
Everyone is going to want that air pump you have.
wonder why the lamp appears vintage, but the battery case and horn seem new or re-done?


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## catfish (Oct 28, 2014)

Very cool find! All of that stuff is original to the bike.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Thank you everybody so much for your input.. I could not locate any dates on the cranks, are the dates stamped on the crank within the BB-shell? I did find the serial number stamped into the BB Shell: #13614

The Horn is either a repro or was restored. The screws and chrome faceplate look like cheesy reproduction parts. The Battery container is either a reproduction or is an NOS part (did they make high-quality reproductions of this part?). I have no idea what happened to the original parts and neither did the fellow I bought it from.. The light-bracket does not line up with the fender holes... I need to look at some pictures to see what I am missing..

Am I crazy to want to ride this bike with the original wheels? I guess I am asking if the MEAD WOOD-CLAD STEEL RIMS were/are very durable or are they just wall-art at this point? This isn't a general question regarding wood wheels... Its regarding these particular wood/steel wheels from this particular manufacturer of this particular vintage....  I'd love to get more opinions on this so I can decide if I will need to build some modern rim-ed wheels for the bike or not.. My (strong) preference would be to use the originals if there is a good chance that they will hold up.

The Sturmey-Archer rear hub on this thing... Did they ever offer a geared hub or was this definitely a later addition?

Thanks again everybody!

Peter Z


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## Iverider (Oct 28, 2014)

If the sturmey is a "tricoaster" you might not want to use it as a rider. They're uncommon and sought after, although I've also been told they have brittle races. A fellow wheelman has told me that he has replaced this hub with a more modern 3 speed sturmey coaster brake hub, but you have to be careful here too as the older generation of the newer hub have been known to have problems (like NO BRAKES when you kick back)

 People ride original rims all the time. Just make sure they're in great shape structurally. You may want to take a peek at what they look like under the tire to make sure any joints are still together. 

The date stamp on the cranks is often within the bb shell.


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## josehuerta (Oct 28, 2014)

Sturmey offered as an option in 1916 Mead catalog -


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 28, 2014)

The Sturmey hub is a replacement but the shifter looks from that period. The top tube quadrant shifter goes way back to the early days of SA. The original hub may have been the US-made Sturmey Model S variant.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Well, the hub (appears to be) a "Tricoaster" hub but it is a little dicey to say for certain as all I can read is "(unreadable)oaster". The word "-oaster" is offset so there was certainly something preceding it.. There is an "S" stamped into the hub above all the engraving. The serial number of the hub is 50517. I am attempting to find a reference for serial numbers/dates..

The "kit" on the bike is definitely the one shown in the advertisement for the Mead Sturmey Archer option, at least the shifter and the pulley..

This keeps getting more and more fun...

Thanks everybody..

Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*I guess my rants go unnoticed*

riding original pre war tires is NUTZ 
they have cotton cords that rot from the inside
I have seen grown men cry when nice tires explode- I am working on a page of blown tires to illustrate this

old tires should be hand pumped to shape about 12 lbs and not ridden.

your bike-do as you wish- have fun


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

bike said:


> riding original pre war tires is NUTZ
> they have cotton cords that rot from the inside
> I have seen grown men cry when nice tires explode- I am working on a page of blown tires to illustrate this
> 
> ...




...*I listen to you bike!!!*


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 28, 2014)

The comment about old, cotton cord tires is correct. You could be ok, but the tires could blow too. 



mzmichaela said:


> Well, the hub (appears to be) a "Tricoaster" hub but it is a little dicey to say for certain as all I can read is "(unreadable)oaster". The word "-oaster" is offset so there was certainly something preceding it.. There is an "S" stamped into the hub above all the engraving. The serial number of the hub is 50517. I am attempting to find a reference for serial numbers/dates..
> 
> The "kit" on the bike is definitely the one shown in the advertisement for the Mead Sturmey Archer option, at least the shifter and the pulley..
> 
> ...




There are severe hubs that are called "Tricoaster". There is a later hub called the "S3C":

http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/index.php?page=history-detail&id=110

The S3C is a common replacement for older 3 speed coasters. The replacement would have taken place in the 1970s or 80s.

Then there the much older Type S. These were made under license in the USA, particularly during WW1 when Sturmey cut production to help the war effort in Britain. If the bike is indeed WW1-era, most likely Type S is correct. If it's from the 1920s, the Type "KC" would be the more correct.

Here is the Type S:

http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/index.php?page=history-detail&id=493

I was guessing S3C just based on your one picture which showed the hub was pretty clean, but if it is indeed a "Type S" with the markings seen in the above webpage, then that probably is right for the bike. And if it is a Type S and really that "clean", that's quite a find.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

I rode the bike yesterday with these tires up and down my street as I was impossibly excited to get this bike and if I didn't ride it (knowing the tires would hold air for at least a couple minutes) I would have certainly lost my mind. It is very obvious that the tires will explode or fail in some way, probably before I finish writing this sentence, so now I am just going to disassemble/clean/re-grease/etc.. while I am waiting for to get Reproduction tires for this incredible (incredibly fun) bike...

I don't mean to diminish the words of warning - I appreciate the input.. Fortunately (or unfortunately) reason has overwhelmed my enthusiasms, so now I am focused on bicycle-maintenance and repair...

Regards, Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*I think it is quite natural to want to DO something*



mzmichaela said:


> I rode the bike yesterday with these tires up and down my street as I was impossibly excited to get this bike and if I didn't ride it (knowing the tires would hold air for at least a couple minutes) I would have certainly lost my mind. It is very obvious that the tires will explode or fail in some way, probably before I finish writing this sentence, so now I am just going to disassemble/clean/re-grease/etc.. while I am waiting for to get Reproduction tires for this incredible (incredibly fun) bike...
> 
> I don't mean to diminish the words of warning - I appreciate the input.. Fortunately (or unfortunately) reason has overwhelmed my enthusiasms, so now I am focused on bicycle-maintenance and repair...
> 
> Regards, Peter Z




so that is why I post so that people may 'curb their enthusiasm' to save tires!
GRIPS AND SEAT nice og and WILL deteriorate with use. This bike is so nice I would say get another rider or at least change out the parts that will fail. Aristocrat seats are though to find and most you see have chunks missing- leather treatment really does not make them rideable. If they are already beat fine.
Lets think about history 50 years down the road--- again I tell anyone you are certainly free to do as you wish but at least be in the know....


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## sam (Oct 28, 2014)

It's easy to see that is a tri-coaster hub. I'm not up on the exact time line of the "S" hubs , they were made in the USA and for a very short time Info on them is on the web, well worth searching for especially on this bike.
And FYI the steel covering on the rims is only for looks/protection. it's thin and adds little in way of strength. 
I would not be afraid to ride it but with the parts and excellent condition of this bike, it's relation to WW1 etc. I'd advise against it.
Where did it come from? and family history with it?If you can get it do so.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

SirMike1983 - after looking at the links that you provided (thank you very much) the hub is definitely the "S" model Tricoaster hub. No question about it.

So I guess the whole "1916 Tricoaster Sturmey Archer Option from Mead" is most likely what is on my bike. Are these hubs truly that fragile or is it just that they are rare or a bit of both (or a lot of both)? I would love to make the bike solid, correct and ORIGINAL and then ride it. It is a bicycle after all and it is not nice enough to be in a meuseum.. But, I don't want to do anything irresponsible like ride it, knowing it will soon fail and impossible to fix?

Thanks folks, Peter Z


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## Shawn Michael (Oct 28, 2014)

Great looking bike! I'd have a rard time not taking it for a spin too.


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 28, 2014)

mzmichaela said:


> SirMike1983 - after looking at the links that you provided (thank you very much) the hub is definitely the "S" model Tricoaster hub. No question about it.
> 
> So I guess the whole "1916 Tricoaster Sturmey Archer Option from Mead" is most likely what is on my bike. Are these hubs truly that fragile or is it just that they are rare or a bit of both (or a lot of both)? I would love to make the bike solid, correct and ORIGINAL and then ride it. It is a bicycle after all and it is not nice enough to be in a meuseum.. But, I don't want to do anything irresponsible like ride it, knowing it will soon fail and impossible to fix?
> 
> Thanks folks, Peter Z





That's pretty good. I've seen S hubs, but none that clean. As Sam says, the S was not made for very long. I would tend to think the S set up you have points to WW1 era.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

sam said:


> It's easy to see that is a tri-coaster hub. I'm not up on the exact time line of the "S" hubs , they were made in the USA and for a very short time Info on them is on the web, well worth searching for especially on this bike.
> And FYI the steel covering on the rims is only for looks/protection. it's thin and adds little in way of strength.
> I would not be afraid to ride it but with the parts and excellent condition of this bike, it's relation to WW1 etc. I'd advise against it.
> Where did it come from? and family history with it?If you can get it do so.




So I applied myself to find/buy the earliest best-example bike I could find because I love originality and I wanted something that could be ridable with not to much effort, not a project... and...  now, I shouldn't ride it? Certainly this thing isn't museum quality so what do you do with it? Hang it from the rafters so I can sell it at a later date to someone else that will hang it from the rafters.. Seems like a shame to not use it for its intended purpose.. I used to go to the Monterey Historics Vintage Automobile Races and loved seeing Pre-War and early Post-War cars on the racetrack at speed. Some of them were priceless some were only worth 10 million dollars or so.. but they were used for their intended purpose and people got to see/experiance them. They did not live their whole life squirreled away in a dark warehouse someplace never to be seen..

 The irony of it all.. What should I do? 

Regards, Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*I know many collectors*



mzmichaela said:


> So I applied myself to find/buy the earliest best-example bike I could find because I love originality and I wanted something that could be ridable with not to much effort, not a project... and...  now, I shouldn't ride it? Certainly this thing isn't museum quality so what do you do with it? Hang it from the rafters so I can sell it at a later date to someone else that will hang it from the rafters.. Seems like a shame to not use it for its intended purpose.. I used to go to the Monterey Historics Vintage Automobile Races and loved seeing Pre-War and early Post-War cars on the racetrack at speed. Some of them were priceless some were only worth 10 million dollars or so.. but they were used for their intended purpose and people got to see/experiance them. They did not live their whole life squirreled away in a dark warehouse someplace never to be seen..
> 
> The irony of it all.. What should I do?
> 
> Regards, Peter Z




that only Ride modern...
a beater toy is more fun and less worry- you leave this outside the bar and it is missing- OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Well, I have beaters.. I would never dream of leaving something like this outside the bar.. or even riding it after having a drink for that matter. I was planning on using it to ride with my wife on the flat areas of our town along the water or to the outdoor-cafe on sunny days.. It is obviously a special bike (maybe a bit more special that I initially imagined) but I would treat it as such...

I guess this begs the question of what to do with something like this. I really appreciate your folks input. I love and respect the history of stuff like this. I REALLY would like to use it for its intended purpose (even if it is special, it is still a bicycle and I feel it is meant to be ridden) and the history should be shared..

If I replace the wheels with modern equivalents and modern tires, replace the seat and the grips and remove the Sturmey Archer kit from the bike, it would seem that I would probably be better off buying a crusty Mead Ranger Frame/Fork with some miscellaneous parts and restoring/building up something I wouldn't need to worry at all about? If all the special parts are going to be collecting dust in boxes and not bolted to the bike they came on, I have a hard time seeing the point of having them?

Its funny, you want the bike you buy to be special... but I guess, not too special.. Then it is no longer a bicycle..

Oh well.


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## Iverider (Oct 28, 2014)

What's your budget?

Build a rider wheelset for it and retain the originals for show or future sale (as well as keeping the bike parts together even though you won't be regularly riding the wheelset)

You have a few options for rims. Are yours clinchers or singletube rims? If they're singletube rims, you could use 700c x 34 cyclocross tires or Robert Deans 28" x 1-1/2 singletube reproductions.


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## Nick-theCut (Oct 28, 2014)

Love the bike.  Great find.  Right up my alley!  Jealous  
I think my thoughts are in line with the rest.  You can ride on old wood rims, the tires are the issue.  These tires are glued on, not clincher.   If you want this as a regular rider, I would go with a complete new wheel setup and preserve the rim/hub/tire setup as is.  New setup, doesn't have to be modern per say.  You could laced old correct equipment together to keep an original look.  I might ride it original if it was a twice a month Sunday rider.  Keep an eye on the low tire pressure and ride gingerly.  Have fun.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

I was going to put the Single-tube reproductions on these rims.. If I built up a wheel set, what hubs would you recommend (I should probably take off the Sturmey Archer kit)? Rims? What repro seat would look fitting? Any repro grips available like these?

As far as budget, I already kind of blew my budget on this bike. That said, I have a very understanding wife..

Thanks, Peter Z


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## Balloontyre (Oct 28, 2014)

The wheels are clincher, inner steel liner is hooked for a beaded tire.


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

mzmichaela said:


> I was going to put the Single-tube reproductions on these rims.. If I built up a wheel set, what hubs would you recommend (I should probably take off the Sturmey Archer kit)? Rims? What repro seat would look fitting? Any repro grips available like these?
> 
> As far as budget, I already kind of blew my budget on this bike. That said, I have a very understanding wife..
> 
> Thanks, Peter Z




Peter, my friend does these, either color approx. $80 pr. shipped


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Balloontyre said:


> The wheels are clincher, inner steel liner is hooked for a beaded tire.




Holy moly... You're right! I have clinchers with tubes (who would have thunk it)

Thank you..


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

bricycle said:


> Peter, my friend does these, either color approx. $80 pr. shipped




Wow, those look quite close to the originals. Are the metal ends chrome or polished aluminum?

How do I get in touch with your friend?

Regards, Peter


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## Iverider (Oct 28, 2014)

If you can find a modern tire that fits you're good to go! 

Little reading for ya!

http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

Metal hook should keep rims from splitting. Post a photo when you get the tires off! Are the tires themselves marked with a size on the sidewalls? They didn't look like a super old tread to me.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

The metal inner rim looks pretty darn good. A little surface rust but it seems substantial enough that the rim certainly isn't going to break into pieces (see pic) Obviously a clincher which makes things easy (for this wheel set at least).. A little sanding masking and black lacquer and internally these wheels will be in good shape..


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Krautwaggen said:


> If you can find a modern tire that fits you're good to go!
> 
> Little reading for ya!
> 
> ...




The tires are marked 28" x 1-3/8" as well as 710 x 35

Regards, Peter


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 28, 2014)

mzmichaela said:


> The metal inner rim looks pretty darn good. A little surface rust but it seems substantial enough that the rim certainly isn't going to break into pieces (see pic) Obviously a clincher which makes things easy (for this wheel set at least).. A little sanding masking and black lacquer and internally these wheels will be in good shape..
> 
> View attachment 176186




The rim looks solid from that picture. You can remove the rust and clean it out, but you may impair the value by adding your own paint to it. It's going to depend on whether you want rust preservation or value in the bike. Applying a protective finish will prevent future rust, but as a collector's item adding your own paint to it, even to preserve it, may reduce the value of the bike. If you do paint it, make sure not to freeze the spoke nipples with the drying coat.


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## Iverider (Oct 28, 2014)

put a tape measure across the tire and measure the distance in mm (or convert from inches) to find the actual ISO. If it's 710 mm you may have trouble finding replacement tires.


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## Nick-theCut (Oct 28, 2014)

Balloontyre said:


> The wheels are clincher, inner steel liner is hooked for a beaded tire.




I need those rims!


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

Nick-theCut said:


> I need those rims!




Nick, you make him a good offer on the wheels, and I'll offer him $250 for the tank....


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

bricycle said:


> Nick, you make him a good offer on the wheels, and I'll offer him $250 for the tank....




Ok, now you're just trying to be funny....

Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*Im in for th grips*



mzmichaela said:


> Ok, now you're just trying to be funny....
> 
> Peter Z




bars and seat!~

Kidding- er no well I er
maybe the whole bike? I would have it in my living room.


If you can get modern tires on there what the hay- that front looks newer anyway


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Krautwaggen said:


> put a tape measure across the tire and measure the distance in mm (or convert from inches) to find the actual ISO. If it's 710 mm you may have trouble finding replacement tires.




The wheels measure approximately 640mm across outer metal surface to outer metal surface. Possibly less. It's a little hard to measure..

I found some Cream colored 28 x 1 1/2 Schwalbe Delta Cruiser tires. Hopefully they will fit (?) It seems like it will be too easy a solution for these wheels so I am not holding my breath...

Regards, Peter Z


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

mzmichaela said:


> Ok, now you're just trying to be funny....
> 
> Peter Z




No, dead serious. Hate to see a bike parted but maybe you can get way more than you paid...?


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## Iverider (Oct 28, 2014)

I'd bet that means a 27" (630mm tire) would fit.

Can't be sure until you try it, but if you're measuring outside to outside, there's probably about 5mm of depth to that bead hook. That's why I said MEASURE THE TIRE!!!


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

Krautwaggen said:


> I'd bet that means a 27" (630mm tire) would fit.
> 
> Can't be sure until you try it, but if you're measuring outside to outside, there's probably about 5mm of depth to that bead hook. That's why I said MEASURE THE TIRE!!!




Outside diameter of the tire looks to be 710mm. I also just did my best to measure the rim's width and figure the distance from inside of the hook to inside of the hook. Looks like 635mm which is what the Schwalbe tire was listed as... Hopefully I have a chance of success..

"28 x 1-1/2 Delta Cruiser (635)"

Regards, Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*try measuring around with a tape in the groove*



mzmichaela said:


> Outside diameter of the tire looks to be 710mm. I also just did my best to measure the rim's width and figure the distance from inside of the hook to inside of the hook. Looks like 635mm which is what the Schwalbe tire was listed as... Hopefully I have a chance of success..
> 
> "28 x 1-1/2 Delta Cruiser (635)"
> 
> Regards, Peter Z




and dividing by 3.1415...


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

bricycle said:


> No, dead serious. Hate to see a bike parted but maybe you can get way more than you paid...?




Who said I was parting it out? That would seem like a crime against history...

You can always humor me offline, but I am not giving up on this thing yet. If I find out enough that it should ONLY be a functional showpiece, then I will certainly be more open...

It is just such a neat piece of history...

Regards, Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*We are messing with you*



mzmichaela said:


> Who said I was parting it out? That would seem like a crime against history...
> 
> You can always humor me offline, but I am not giving up on this thing yet. If I find out enough that it should ONLY be a functional showpiece, then I will certainly be more open...
> 
> ...




we would alway buy parts but would rather see preserved i will step out on a limb and say I am speaking for the majority
just the play your bike has gotten should show we all like and respect it.


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

mzmichaela said:


> Who said I was parting it out? That would seem like a crime against history...
> 
> You can always humor me offline, but I am not giving up on this thing yet. If I find out enough that it should ONLY be a functional showpiece, then I will certainly be more open...
> 
> ...




Good Peter, It would be a crime. This was a test, and you passed with flying colors! You are a credit to our group! Welcome. 
Can't say the same for some others on here tho....


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

bike said:


> and dividing by 3.1415...




Ok, I am an engineer... but I am also confused (obviously). What is the importance of the circumference? Also, since the tread could be thicker or thinner, why is the outer diameter the more accurate measure? I am not trying to be difficult, I genuinely don't know what I am missing here.. Granted, I have never been in this particular situation before, so... so I don't know what I don't know!

Peter Z


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## Balloontyre (Oct 28, 2014)

Peter, if you have a bicycle shop near you, take the wheel in and see if a 27 inch 10 speed tire fits.
check your message inbox for a source.


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## mzmichaela (Oct 28, 2014)

bricycle said:


> Good Peter, It would be a crime. This was a test, and you passed with flying colors! You are a credit to our group! Welcome.
> Can't say the same for some others on here tho....




Good. Then we are all on the same page.

Regards, Peter Z


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*Problem is*

there are LOTS of different tire sizes that were called all kinds of things with no standards through time. 
circ 2PiR gives best shot at actuall diameter to use in ISO sizing unless I forgot my math- possible!


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

mzmichaela said:


> Good. Then we are all on the same page.
> 
> Regards, Peter Z




My signature used to be, "Have a heart, do not part".


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## bike (Oct 28, 2014)

*My sig should be*



bricycle said:


> My signature used to be, "Have a heart, do not part".




MY HEART WILL PART FOR PROFIT- LET THE NON PARTERS STEP!
I always prefer to NOT pART but- me and Kark Marx agree on one thing

ECONOMICS RULE HUMAN ACTIVITY.

Till the trust fund kicks in(yeah right(damn poor relations!)) I am hip to that


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## Nick-theCut (Oct 28, 2014)

I'm prepared to make a strong offer on the wheels/hub setup.  You can message me if there is any interest mzmichaela


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## Larmo63 (Oct 28, 2014)

I put Italian solid wood rims on my Mead and the ride is really slick. I run the Electra Amsterdam tires on these
with no issues. I watch for curbs, potholes, etc, but they are pretty stout. Not correct, but sexy as hell and I still
get laid. I had them pinstriped too. Keep this bike together, ride that saddle, it's fine, run the grips, hell, they lasted
this long. The parts that you have that are too new or don't fit, are not that hard to find. Keep at it, and ride the poop
out of it. They are very rugged bicycles, mine Schwinn made. yours probably too. I've since sourced a Mead pump for
mine. They are pricey, keep that.


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## bricycle (Oct 28, 2014)

Beautiful ride Lawrence!!


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## mzmichaela (Oct 29, 2014)

Larmo63 said:


> I put Italian solid wood rims on my Mead and the ride is really slick. I run the Electra Amsterdam tires on these
> with no issues. I watch for curbs, potholes, etc, but they are pretty stout. Not correct, but sexy as hell and I still
> get laid. I had them pinstriped too. Keep this bike together, ride that saddle, it's fine, run the grips, hell, they lasted
> this long. The parts that you have that are too new or don't fit, are not that hard to find. Keep at it, and ride the poop
> ...




1.) thats a great looking bike, and b.) Thanks! I am inclined to agree with you.

Regards, Peter Z


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## DonChristie (Oct 29, 2014)

Great looking bike, Peter/Lawrence! Bikes are made to be ridden! Get a set of Robert Deans and ride the chit out of it! I have a set of 28" Metal clad rims with Deans on them. Probably have rode 200 miles on that set up! To me, bikes are functional art. This thread has kinda sparked a bigger subject-to ride or not to ride vintage bikes.


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## Hermanator3 (Oct 29, 2014)

*Ride it!*

I have Blunts with Amsterdams on my 1924 Ranger.  I'm riding it with the original Aristocrat saddle & the Brompton red pedals. Still good after 90 years so why not still ride them.  In fact, just back from riding it.


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## mzmichaela (Nov 1, 2014)

Well, 

I got some decent tires on the Mead Ranger. Cleaned and lubed the mechanicals. The bike rides great now.. Figuring out the finer adjustment of the hub will be the last piece of the puzzle.. Any good resources for the "S" Model's adjustment or hints? I'll need to find some decent pedal blocks in time as well... Think I am going to leave off the battery can and light for now. I like the more minimalist look.

Peter Z


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## mzmichaela (Nov 1, 2014)

I was asked to elaborate on the tires:

When I first measured the rims (wood with a metal inner-clincher) the rough bead seat diameter I got was approximately 635mm. I purchased a couple of sets of tires: 28"x1-1/2" Schwalbe with a Bead seat diameter of 635mm. These were way too big. No chance of them actually working on these rims. Then a set of crappy no name brand 27"x1-3/8" with a bead seat diameter of 630mm. These were closer but would never work. Just too sloppy on the rim. In frustration, I went down to my friendly local bike shop and got a couple 700X38 Commuter tires made by Specialized. These have a bead seat diameter of 622mm (like most 700c or 29'er tires). I could just barely get them over the rim, but I did. The inner metal rim on these wood rims have a dished cross-section. I figured it would be a long-shot that they would climb the inside of the rim sufficiently to roll/spin true, but they did. I have 60psi in them now and the outside diameter after one night at this pressure is 1-1/2". I will lower the pressure tomorrow to add a bit of squish..

As far as aesthetics, they look pretty darn good. I mixed some black dye (a lot of dye) with paint thinner and a teeny bit of nitro lacquer and painted over the red and white lettering with a small brush. It worked perfectly although I don't know if it will last forever. I have been riding the bike around and the color is not coming off, nor is it cracking in any way. The thickness is virtually zero, so I doubt it will crack although... who knows?

These tires were $35 a piece. They are "Specialized - Crossroads 700x38" tires. They worked for me. Your results may vary.

Please note: My bike is a mid to late teens Mead Ranger. My original rims are NOT made for glued on tires. They are made for early clinchers.. Other rims may behave differently with these tires. Please also understand (disclaimer) that I am no expert and this may be a dangerous scenario as a driver. I am not advocating that anyone follow what I did. Only that this seems to have worked for me.


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## bike (Nov 2, 2014)

*^^^^ great outcome ^^^^*



mzmichaela said:


> I was asked to elaborate on the tires:
> [...] seems to have worked for me.




THANKS for the details!


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