# Lenape Cycle Works restoration project



## Tommy2X (Jan 3, 2022)

I'm new to the forum and have already found a ton of info here. I wanted to have a place to document a restoration project I have begun for a friend. The bike is currently full of contradictions as there are only 3 known examples from this bike company that was only in existence from 1896 to 1901. I have determined the white paint was added later, seat is not period correct, and wheels were added sometime later. I'll be posting a few pictures as I go when I have a question or find something interesting.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 3, 2022)

Confirmed that the crank set is a Fauber. It looks just like the one in the advertisement.  Anyone know what year Fauber changed from the 4 bolt attachment to a one bolt to crank arm


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## Tommy2X (Jan 4, 2022)

Thought i would post a full pic of the bike.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 4, 2022)

I was able to get the headset disassemble and found that the stem for the handle bars was snapped off and stuck inside the fork upper tube. Has anyone been successful welding this type of damage? Would love to use the original parts.  While removing some of the paint, I also revealed the "knurling" that is circles, not sure i have seen this design on a bearing cap yet. Anyone else seen this design defore?


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## Schwinn1776 (Jan 4, 2022)

Welcome to the CABE 😎👍 enjoy!


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## HEMI426 (Jan 4, 2022)

Welcome from WPA.


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## corbettclassics (Jan 4, 2022)

You may want to use paint stripper on the knurled part as not to damage the fine intricate work.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 4, 2022)

corbettclassics said:


> You may want to use paint stripper on the knurled part as not to damage the fine intricate work.



Thats the plan. I didn't even know it was there due to the paint being so thick. I think it will turn out real nice.


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## Blue Streak (Jan 4, 2022)

Here are some Lenape and Fauber references:

May 7, 1896 - _Trenton Evening Times (Trenton NJ)_




February 24, 1898 - _The Central News (Perkasie PA)_




May 23, 1898 - _Yonkers Statesman (Yonkers NY)_




April 24, 1899 - _The News (Paterson NJ)_




April 29, 1899 - _The Wall Street Journal (New York NY)_




May 7, 1899 - _The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (Brooklyn NY)_




December 20, 1899 - _The Philadelphia Inquirer_




March 9, 1900 - _The Allentown Leader (Allentown PA)_





January 19, 1899 - _The Wheel:_




January 25, 1900 - _The Wheel:


_


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## locomotion (Jan 4, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> I was able to get the headset disassemble and found that the stem for the handle bars was snapped off and stuck inside the fork upper tube. Has anyone been successful welding this type of damage? Would love to use the original parts.  While removing some of the paint, I also revealed the "knurling" that is circles, not sure i have seen this design on a bearing cap yet. Anyone else seen this design defore?
> 
> View attachment 1541366
> 
> ...



that is a different looking stem, never seen one with that shape before ...... I like it
there is no way to weld those pieces back on so that they will hold with the tension,
but to save the stem, you might want to take a cheap "donor" stem with the same diameter and cut it a little higher up and weld that piece to your stem
keep the longer bolt and the piece than expands the stem end


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## locomotion (Jan 4, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> I was able to get the headset disassemble and found that the stem for the handle bars was snapped off and stuck inside the fork upper tube. Has anyone been successful welding this type of damage? Would love to use the original parts.  While removing some of the paint, I also revealed the "knurling" that is circles, not sure i have seen this design on a bearing cap yet. Anyone else seen this design defore?
> 
> View attachment 1541366
> 
> ...




Crescent does use a similar type of bearing cups. close but not identical
here is a close-up on one of my Crescent


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## Ricker (Jan 4, 2022)

I have had luck tig welding stems back together with that damage but the heat affect area becomes brittle so It needs to be done slowly, with cooling time between small passes. I would be curious to see what is under the paint on that stem. I have found that the old stems are very soft metal and I wonder if that one was heated to bend it that way. If it was bent or is original it really is still a very a unique stem!


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## Tommy2X (Jan 5, 2022)

locomotion said:


> Crescent does use a similar type of bearing cups. close but not identical
> here is a close-up on one of my Crescent
> 
> View attachment 1541827



That is similar. Your looks like it may be cast. The one I am working with appears to be machined.  Thanks! I will be  able to identify a Cresent if I see one in the future pretty easily.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 5, 2022)

Ricker said:


> I have had luck tig welding stems back together with that damage but the heat affect area becomes brittle so It needs to be done slowly, with cooling time between small passes. I would be curious to see what is under the paint on that stem. I have found that the old stems are very soft metal and I wonder if that one was heated to bend it that way. If it was bent or is original it really is still a very a unique stem!



I know someone who does heat treatment of metals. I think I'll have him take a look at it and see if his company can weld it. Thanks for giving me hope for a repair. There was a previous reply that was helpful as well.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 5, 2022)

Blue Streak said:


> Here are some Lenape and Fauber references:
> 
> May 7, 1896 - _Trenton Evening Times (Trenton NJ)_
> View attachment 1541479
> ...



Thanks for all the info! Are you a Lenape bike fan?


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## Blue Streak (Jan 6, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> Thanks for all the info! Are you a Lenape bike fan?



I am a fan of all pre-1900 bicycles and enjoy researching them. I had not heard of Lenape until you posted it here. Thanks for the full photo and look forward to seeing more of it.


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## locomotion (Jan 7, 2022)

Ricker said:


> I have had luck tig welding stems back together with that damage but the heat affect area becomes brittle so It needs to be done slowly, with cooling time between small passes. I would be curious to see what is under the paint on that stem. I have found that the old stems are very soft metal and I wonder if that one was heated to bend it that way. If it was bent or is original it really is still a very a unique stem!



i was also wondering if the stem was bent that way later in life. 
But, IMO, it would be extremely difficult to bend a stem like that even with a lot of heat. Especially with an almost perfect bend.
But I guess anything is possible in the right circumstances and the right tools. I couldn't myself achieve that result.
I also wouldn't be able to reweld those stem pieces back together and guarantee that they would hold. But I am not a professionnal welder, I get by with simple repairs, but not technical ones. A pro could probably get it done.


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## Quakertownrich (Jan 7, 2022)

Cool! Being a Bucks County, PA native, Lenape instantly got my attention. In these parts, the Lenape Valley refers the native Lenape Indians. Never knew of the bicycles.


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## Craig Allen (Jan 7, 2022)

Just as a side note- most people pronounce the word Lenape as "Len- A- Pee" with the accent on the first syllable. Actually the correct pronunciation is Len-Op-Pee with the accent on the second syllable.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 7, 2022)

locomotion said:


> i was also wondering if the stem was bent that way later in life.
> But, IMO, it would be extremely difficult to bend a stem like that even with a lot of heat. Especially with an almost perfect bend.
> But I guess anything is possible in the right circumstances and the right tools. I couldn't myself achieve that result.
> I also wouldn't be able to reweld those stem pieces back together and guarantee that they would hold. But I am not a professionnal welder, I get by with simple repairs, but not technical ones. A pro could probably get it done.



I got the paint stripped off and it look like the piece may be a casting. All tubea are hollow. There are pits in the steel that looks like they used lead to fill and level prior to painting. I will be warming it up with a torch to see if the silver is paint or lead....

I think the bend is as it was when manufactured. I can't see any evidence of heating and bending and no tool marks. There is also no id for manufacture.  I fid find one on ebay that is similar, but much shorter. 

Here is a pic of it stripped of paint.


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## Tommy2X (Jan 7, 2022)

So today was the day to try and weld the broken handle bar stem. I chose to use a MIG because that is what I have. I beveled the edges with a file and lined everything up. I used the cone nut to hold the bottom where I wanted it and placed a couple of tack welds. On the one broken piece I did weld the inside as well. Once the second piece was in place I followed the same process. I did use a propane torch tonpre heat all of the pieces to help with making the weld less brittle along the HAZ. I cleaned the welds up with a sanding disk and test fit everything back together.  I did tighten things down about 80% and it held. I will be excited to get the rest of the fame finished and reassemble to see if my welding will hold up. Thanks for the suggestions and the likes on this thread. I also wanted to note that the end goal with this bike will mostly be for display and maybe an occasional parade ride. If the weld fails during final assemble, I will likely use the suggestion of cutting it off above and making a new lower section.


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## Tommy2X (Feb 21, 2022)

Been working on the bike on and off for a month or so. I finished stripping, de-scaling rust, and then sanding and polishing the Fauber hangers and chain ring. I looked into getting the whole thing re-plated, but with all of the pits in the metal, I elected to just polish what was left of the original nickel plating and call it good enough. 

Frame is out getting media blasted. Once it is clean will be making a decision to powder coat or to take to an automotive paint shop. Found a power finish that matches the original red pretty close. Can't beat the price if powder works out. $125 for blast and finish. Will post pics of bare metal and once decision is made. 

Traded the rear hub that came on the bike that was around 1910 to 1915 for a set of wood, perior correct, wheels and hubs. Will post pics once I get those. Before and after cleaning.


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## Tommy2X (Feb 24, 2022)

Question about the chain that came on this bike...

I'm pretty sure its a Diamond brand, but it looks like it has "19" stamped in the diamond. Take a look at the pics and let me know your thoughts. 

Thanks!


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## Tommy2X (Feb 24, 2022)

After a soak in some parts cleaner, and a couple of hours with a brass brush, razor blade, some penetrating oil, and a bunch of paper towels, I think it came out pretty good.


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## Andrew Gorman (Feb 24, 2022)

It's Diamond #61 "old bicycle chain", sadly not currently in production.  I used to find some old stock at distributors in the 1990's, and it was listed on their website maybe 10 years ago.


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## Tommy2X (Feb 26, 2022)

Andrew Gorman said:


> It's Diamond #61 "old bicycle chain", sadly not currently in production.  I used to find some old stock at distributors in the 1990's, and it was listed on their website maybe 10 years ago.



Thanks for the info. Has anyone been able to determine the year based on the stamping? I don't seem to be able to find many examples that have thw 61 in the dimond.


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## David Brown (Feb 26, 2022)

Is that a crack in the one link?  In the picture of the chain rolled up third row down.


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## Tommy2X (Feb 26, 2022)

David Brown said:


> Is that a crack in the one link?  In the picture of the chain rolled up third row down.



Wow, good eye. Yes it is broken clean through. Bike will be for display, only, so will be able to use. May put a small weld tack.


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## New Mexico Brant (Feb 28, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> Question about the chain that came on this bike...
> 
> I'm pretty sure its a Diamond brand, but it looks like it has "19" stamped in the diamond. Take a look at the pics and let me know your thoughts.
> 
> ...



Tommy,

If you are trying for historical accuracy you may consider getting a proper block chain; that is what the Lenape would have started life with.   The “61” is a standard skip tooth chain Diamond offered.  It was a commonly used chain found in the late teens and twenties but I an not sure of the actual date they introduced it to their lineup.


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## Tommy2X (Feb 28, 2022)

Thanks for the info. I am trying to within reason make it look as new when sold originally and on a budget. I will start looking for a block chain.


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## New Mexico Brant (Feb 28, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> Thanks for the info. I am trying to within reason make it look as new when sold originally and on a budget. I will start looking for a block chain.



Block chains vary by width but also their running profiles can vary.  I had to try a few yesterday on the Monarch I was working on.  
If it is for display you may want to just use the “61.” 
Great project!  I look forward to seeing your progress


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## Tommy2X (Mar 11, 2022)

The frame has been dipped and glass bead blasted most if the way. Wanted to post some pics to document how this bike is constructed. Looks to be mostly lugs and then brazed. The rear "wishbone" chain stay design is interesting to me. Seems to have taken a pretty hard hit on the head set. This may have been what cased the handlebar stem to break. Can't wait to get it back from powder coat. Will be posting once I have it re assembled.


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## Andrew Gorman (Mar 11, 2022)

Mike Cates has a lot of block chain in various sizes available:








						ONE INCH PITCH NOS BLOCK CHAIN IN VARIOUS WIDTHS IS STILL AVAILABLE | Sell - Trade: Bicycle Parts, Accessories, Ephemera
					

I HAVE NOS ONE INCH PITCH BLOCK CHAIN IN 3/16", 1/4". 5/16", 3/8" AND 1/2" WIDTHS. Best to email me for a PDF showing complete measuring, pricing and ordering details. Photos below show an example of a 1/2" inner width between side plates one inch pitch chain. Narrower widths are the same side...




					thecabe.com


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## Blue Streak (Mar 11, 2022)

Block Chain parts or Repair | Antique Bicycles Pre-1933
					

I need to repair this 3/8 width block chain - the master links (if there were ones) are wide and I wonder if those exist for block chain or I will just need to get a few spare links and manually connect them. Looking for some donor links or master links, willing to trade or Pay. Pic shown...




					thecabe.com


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## New Mexico Brant (Mar 14, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> Can't wait to get it back from powder coat.



You lost me at powder coat!  Why paint a 19th/early 20th century bicycle in a non traditional manner?  To a true collector who understands the difference it significantly devalues bicycle both aesthetically and monetarily.


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## Tommy2X (Mar 14, 2022)

New Mexico Brant said:


> You lost me at powder coat!  Why paint a 19th/early 20th century bicycle in a non traditional manner?  To a true collector who understands the difference it significantly devalues bicycle both aesthetically and monetarily.



Sorry to disappoint Brant. Owner of the bike is on a budget and this was the most cost effective way to accomplish his goals. I am not a painter so would need to contact this out. Blast and coat was about 125. Will be spending a bit more on things like a new period correct saddle and wheels. Thanks for checking out the thread.


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## HEMI426 (Mar 14, 2022)

I tend to agree with Brant, after blast rattle can acid etch red oxide primer (1can), black lacquer (2cans), clear coat (2cans). I'm assuming the bike was black (most were), cost $30-$40. Now called a repaint. I'm sure it will be beautiful either way, good luck. Watch the threaded areas with powder coat.


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## New Mexico Brant (Mar 14, 2022)

HEMI426 said:


> I tend to agree with Brant, after blast rattle can acid etch red oxide primer (1can), black lacquer (2cans), clear coat (2cans). I'm assuming the bike was black (most were), cost $30-$40. Now called a repaint. I'm sure it will be beautiful either way, good luck. Watch the threaded areas with powder coat.



Definitely a much better solution.


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## corbettclassics (Mar 14, 2022)

The first post here says that they want to "document" this "Restoration" but ... is it really being restored?  Nothing seems to be getting re-nickeled, the frame isn't being restored as it should be and it doesn't seem like the "original" hubs were even kept with the bike either ( unless I read something wrong ).

For starters:
Powder coating is "NOT RESTORING" just so this person knows.  What a cheap horrible thing to do to a very rare 1890's bike! ( even if that client says "I don't have much money" .. then I still wouldn't do this to it. That "shouldn't even be an option" by someone who is attempting to restore something for someone ). 

First - the person restoring this bike should have some kind of knowledge in restoring TOC bikes and explain to the owner that this is not the correct way to "Restore" a bike when it is supposedly as rare as it is.  He should simply say that it would be better to take it to someone else.  Just tell them that this is not the way you restore bikes .... sorry!  Tell them that you are wrong person for this very rare historical bike because your vision is not the same as his.

Option:
I do think this restorer could buy a can of "SEMS" High Build primer for $25 and primer it himself which is a perfect primer for this. ( Lightly sand it afterwards ).
Any proper person who is going to "restore a bike" has a paint gun ( if not then buy one from Harbor Freight to get you through this on that frame ).  The paint 
( about a pint in single stage ) will get you through the coloring on it for about $100 or less. ( no clear coat needed as they didn't really have clear back then )

OR:
ask a painter at any car paint shop the next time he's squirting some paint to squirt the frame and the guy might charge you $100.  I just think this would be better than doing what you're doing to it.

Well ..... in my opinion it's not being restored, and the person doing this bike should simply hand the project back to the owner and advise him that until he wants it RESTORED properly then it's best not to go forward with the restoration.  Maybe that owner should hold off until he can save up some more money to have such a rare bike restored properly.  I say - please stop now before you are the person who ruins this very rare historical bike!


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## Tommy2X (Mar 14, 2022)

corbettclassics said:


> The first post here says that they want to "document" this "Restoration" but ... is it really being restored?  Nothing seems to be getting re-nickeled, the frame isn't being restored as it should be and it doesn't seem like the "original" hubs were even kept with the bike either ( unless I read something wrong ).
> 
> For starters:
> Powder coating is "NOT RESTORING" just so this person knows.  What a cheap horrible thing to do to a very rare 1890's bike! ( even if that client says "I don't have much money" .. then I still wouldn't do this to it. That "shouldn't even be an option" by someone who is attempting to restore something for someone ).
> ...



Corbett,
Thanks for sharing your opinions and thoughts on the project. I really do appreciate the feedback. Could have gone without the sarcasm,  but to each his own. As stated in my first post, this is my first "restoration'. I am a generally pretty handy guy who like fixing old things, but still learning. Maybe I should have chose something different to work on, but hey, this is what I was handed. The owner of the bike is pretty knowledgeable and I was just trying to do the work he requested. I have a feeling that this is a rare, but not particularly valuable bike. The company was in business a short time and most people have never heard of it. This bike will end up being a display piece in a bike shop. I did inquire about getting the parts replated,.but due to the pitting I decided to polish what was left of the nickel finish and call it a day.  I will post pics, but I think they look respectable from 10 feet. 

In closing, I did reach out to the powder coat shop and canceled the finish. They will finish blasting the parts and I will attempting the paint with a paint gun slightly better than a.harbor freight one. 

Didn't realize people such as yourself were so pasionate and condescending about bike restoration. I will continue to post my "progress", but feel free to skip reading if your just going to trash the efforts I am making to save a bike from the scrap heap.


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## kccomet (Mar 14, 2022)

I admire your effort, refurbish, might be a better word than restoration. I think your doing great for your first time, everything's a learning curve, you might find you enjoy this. as far as the powder coat, no matter how the paint work turns out you made the right choice not to powdercoat.  look forward to seeing your progress


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## corbettclassics (Mar 14, 2022)

Tommy,

I also appreciate the fact that you mention you like the opinions, our thoughts and feedback. Hopefully it will help you in future projects.

Happy to see you’re taking a slightly different approach to this restoration now. Some restorers don’t see the difference from right or wrong. I think several people mentioned the wrong direction you were taking with this restoration.

So sorry you feel hurt by thinking someone is trashing your efforts.  Just keep at it and you’ll  be ok!

So, keep up the fine work and we look forward to seeing the finished bike.

Note:  I don’t think any of us realized it was going to the scrap heap if you weren’t attempting a restoration for the owner.


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## New Mexico Brant (Mar 14, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> I have a feeling that this is a rare, but not particularly valuable bike. The company was in business a short time and most people have never heard of it.






Tommy2X said:


> efforts I am making to save a bike from the scrap heap.



Tommy, 

First I would like to say that is great news you/your client decided not to powder coat the bike.  Thank you for reconsidering and having an open mind.

There are some very good threads on the forum on painting a frame.  Something to keep in mind, hundreds of thousands of bicycles were being produced annually when the Lenape was made.  Most have minor paint imperfections which were typical of the time.  Finishers today often paint "too perfectly."

Concerning your quotes above I am think you are short selling the importance of bicycle.  It is true, in the condition it was found, the bicycle wasn't worth thousands but there are many collectors that would have jumped at the opportunity to own this rare machine.  Hardly a suitable candidate for the "scrap heap," there are a couple collectors who would have "paid-up" in the as-found condition.  Rarity and value often do not go hand and hand but this bike has a commercial hook you are not considering.  Being produced in Pennsylvania and using a local Native American name for the badge greatly enhances the commercial relevance of the wheel.  I can quickly think of two museums from the Keystone state and one Native tribal museum that could be possibly interested in the bicycle for their collections.  

Being a Pennsylvania native it amazes me so few bicycles were actually produced in the state that was full of manufacturing capacity.  There are a few exceptions but most bikes we see were made elsewhere and just wear a badge from a jobber or retailer from the Commonwealth.  

I applaud Mr. Corbett for being so frank in the discussion and regret not being more forward myself; you both have assisted in saving a national treasure. Powder coating would have made the bicycle "scrap heap" material for most serious collectors and would have potentially ruined any future museum opportunities.  

Good luck with your progress. It is hard for me to image this is the first bicycle you have brought back to life; I wish I had your skills!  My hat is off to for giving this fine machine the care and attention it deserves.


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## Tommy2X (Mar 25, 2022)

Here are the period correct wheels I have secured... they are not a perfect match, but for display I think they will be fine. Open to any advice on the proper way to refurbish. Will not be disassembling. Want to clean the metal parts in place and remove the paint on the one. Client wants to have the natural wood finish instead of painting them. The one rim has a nice patina that I don't want to lose. How hard will it be to match that color?


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## corbettclassics (Mar 26, 2022)

The rear looks like a barrel hub that is tied & soldered. It's very rare to see that style of tie & solder (very nice!)
The front is not a barrel hub but looks like an hour glass style hub - and not tied & soldered from what I can see.

Did you try to see if they are the correct dimensions to slide perfectly in the dropouts?

I guess it would be ok to display but I think it would be better to keep your search going for another correct set that matches. 
They will show up but you just have to be patient.

Here's a set that I think would be proper for the bike.  You can find a set like this for pretty cheap - maybe $500 and up.



> There is a set right now on eBay that would be absolutely perfect for this bike and has tires.  They are matching and he wants $400 plus shipping.



They are being offered by My560sec


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## Tommy2X (Mar 26, 2022)

Tommy2X said:


> Corbett,
> Thanks for sharing your opinions and thoughts on the project. I really do appreciate the feedback. Could have gone without the sarcasm,  but to each his own. As stated in my first post, this is my first "restoration'. I am a generally pretty handy guy who like fixing old things, but still learning. Maybe I should have chose something different to work on, but hey, this is what I was handed. The owner of the bike is pretty knowledgeable and I was just trying to do the work he requested. I have a feeling that this is a rare, but not particularly valuable bike. The company was in business a short time and most people have never heard of it. This bike will end up being a display piece in a bike shop. I did inquire about getting the parts replated,.but due to the pitting I decided to polish what was left of the nickel finish and call it a day.  I will post pics, but I think they look respectable from 10 feet.
> 
> In closing, I did reach out to the powder coat shop and canceled the finish. They will finish blasting the parts and I will attempting the paint with a paint gun slightly better than a.harbor freight one.
> ...



Thanks for the advice. I am still waiting to get the frame back from media blast to check fitment.  These wheels were sourced by the owner. I will see if he is open to looking for an alternate front wheel that is a closer match to the rear if everything fits. I like the tied and solder look. I am wondering about the front wheel fitment. How much flex should be required to get the hub bolts into position? The wheels that came on the bike required quite a bit to dismount the wheel.


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## cyclingday (Mar 26, 2022)

I realize that this probably isn’t something you’d be interested in purchasing if this is going to be your one and only early bicycle project.
But, I have found this tool, to be indispensable for working on bikes with closed fork ends.



It allows you to gently spread the fork blades just enough to drop the axle ends into the holes, and return them back to their original spread without damaging the alignment.
Worth its weight in gold, if you’ve tried it any other way.


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## Tommy2X (Apr 8, 2022)

Did some cleaning on the wheel set i was asked to use. Its a new departure, but can't tell from the markings the model.


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## Tommy2X (May 3, 2022)

Bike is back from blasting. I put 2 coats of primer followed by 2 coats of filler primer. After the recommended wait time sanded the filler primer with medium scotch bright pad to level things out. Chose a spray paint that matches the original paint that I uncovered while stripping the bike down. 2 coats with a light sanding in between. Couple of pics to show progress.


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## New Mexico Brant (Jun 27, 2022)

How is the Lenape coming along Tommy?  Could you please post a picture of the bicycle's badge when you get a moment.  Many thanks.


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