# Convert 1973 Continental to Town Bike?



## Martin Bike Nut (May 16, 2022)

Hi All!

I just bought a 1973 Continental that I want to convert to my reliable, less-likely-to-be-stolen town bike.  It's far from pristine - perfect! - but it's pretty damn nice, and I love the color and those wheel hubs!

I'm going to 
(1) replace the (original!?) tires and tubes, 
(2) swap the drop handlebars for Suburban/Speedster upright 'bars (and brake levers), 
(3) remove the front derailleur and large chainring, 
(4) swap the Twin-Stik shift levers to a single friction, thumb shifter.  

I'm also going to do some maintenance/restoration of the wheel hubs, headset and bottom bracket, if necessary.  (I was also thinking about converting the bottom bracket to a sealed-bearing, cartridge type, but that's probably just silly)

Do you have any other ideas about making this a short-trip, daily driver?

Thanks!


----------



## J-wagon (May 16, 2022)

Nice color. Maybe add a townie bell. 👍


----------



## morton (May 16, 2022)

i preferred trigger shifters for street......quicker, more precise what i call no look action.

but, imo bike will be a theft magnet ........way too nice to leave unattended.


----------



## SchwinnFinn63 (May 16, 2022)

Depending on your fit, you might need to find a shorter reach stem. Hopefully it, the insert on those are of a smaller diameter.


----------



## Schwinny (May 16, 2022)

That is what I do to them, but out of necessity.
You can remove the five bolts from the chain ring and it removes the chain guard and large ring. It leaves the small one attached to the crank. Remove the front derailleur, and it's a 5 speed. At that point you can add a 5 spd trigger shifter.
Also lose a couple pounds.
Depends on where you live for the theft deterrent though. With tourist bars it does make it less desirable for theft but shiny clean attracts theft...

It's a nice looking bike


----------



## Oldbikeguy1960 (May 17, 2022)

It it your bike, and it's yours to do as you want so please dont be offended by my thoughts.

To me it is way too nice still to be torn apart to make something it wasnt intended to be.

Change the bars to tourist if you need to for comfort. The seat as well. Save them because if you sell it it would be more saleable with those parts included.

You can replace the tires with whatever you want that fits the rims, but from experience if you do replace the tubes buy good ones. Otherwise you are better off with the originals. Most of the department store tubes will not hold air if you put an icepick to their stems.

Those shifters are friction shifters. Much cooler and more durable than the plastic things available today.

The stem is not that long, I have seen the city bikes with stems that long and even drop stems.

Don't change out the crank assembly for cartridge type bearings. That is a waste of time and money, unless you are Mountain Biking or on dirt, water and mud a lot. I believe you could find a way to seal up the bottom bracket some without the expense of a sealed cartridge conversion. If you are interested I would do the legwork on how to do it and what to use.

Or tune it up and ride it as is, it will grow on you if you do. I rode those bikes and Krates through high school in the 1970s and really didn't like tourist bikes then. I am ok with them now but still prefer older road bikes       (and Krates and the occasional Balloon tire bike).

On a side note, a 5 speed cruiser bike would be way more comfortably  (pronounced 
com for TOB lee) if you are riding a lot. You can buy those in a wide range of colors. They have comfortable upright bars and large padded seats. Index shifters but they usually look like the older friction shifters or  you can get thumb shifters or Grip Shift which is amazingly comfortable to ride around town with and you never have to take your hands off of the handlebars. Heck, most of the time they even have a cup holder for your Starbucks (or 7-Eleven or whatever).

You could also tune and clean it and sell it. Then buy a City Bike you can like. Then two people (you and the buyer) both win.

Last thought. Invest in a good lock no matter what way you go. A 6 foot coated cable (or even a 6-8 foot coated cable dog leash) and a decent round body lock would be a good choice. Where I live the gangbangers will even steal a sidewalk bike and ride it across town to drop off "deliveries". They dump them a block or two away and usually destroy the wheels by then or at the drop point to be spiteful. I pick them up a lot, but the owners rarely even file a theft report or even write down the serial numbers so there is no way to find them. Police here will not even come for them if you call and the scrappers (I was one myself) will take them to the yard without hesitation.

Like I said though it is your bike. Dont let me rain on your parade.


----------



## Martin Bike Nut (May 17, 2022)

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> It it your bike, and it's yours to do as you want so please dont be offended by my thoughts.
> 
> To me it is way too nice still to be torn apart to make something it wasnt intended to be.
> 
> ...



No offense taken at all, and I'm considering everything you've mentioned here.

Thanks!

Martin


----------



## Oldbikeguy1960 (May 17, 2022)

Thanks man, you would not believe the reactions I can and have prompted with my opinions and suggestions so I appreciate your polite acceptance of my post.

I am searching the one piece crank seal idea with no results but I have a couple ideas of my own I will test soon and if they work I will share them.

Good luck with your bike, no matter which route you take.
Rob


----------



## Martin Bike Nut (May 17, 2022)

(Oops!  How do I simply delete a post?)


----------



## Martin Bike Nut (May 17, 2022)

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> Thanks man, you would not believe the reactions I can and have prompted with my opinions and suggestions so I appreciate your polite acceptance of my post.
> 
> I am searching the one piece crank seal idea with no results but I have a couple ideas of my own I will test soon and if they work I will share them.
> 
> ...



You're welcome, and I really meant what I said.  I'm an "OldBikeGuy", too, but my last Schwinn was a 1969 3-speed Speedster, and I have PLENTY to learn about old bikes!  

Here's a search I could use help with, Rob: 

Can I simply replace the 1-piece crank with a vintage spindle - like a Le Tour or Sports Tourer?  (And use all the existing bearings, cups and races?)


----------



## Oldbikeguy1960 (May 17, 2022)

I assume you are meaning one piece to 3 piece crank? If so, the quick answer is no.

The 3 piece crank bottom bracket (frame) is threaded and smaller than the unthreaded 1 piece bottom bracket. I have seen adapters but there is an easier way if you are determined to do it.

The BMX vintage guys use a bearing set that allows one to put a 3 piece spindle in a one piece bottom bracket. Pretty simple all in all and still available on eBay. If you do this, do not use a cottered spindle. The square end spindle is a much better choice. I somehow manage to ruin the cotters in no time on British bicycles and motorcycles and have since high school. But then again, I could leg press 750 pounds at 16 so maybe I am a circus freak.

The one piece crank is dependable and bulletproof if it has a good waterproof grease and the bearings are good to start with. Plus it is cheap to maintain. Those are good selling points for the one piece crank.

I can help find one, should you decide to go this way and put you in touch so you can make your own deal.
Rob


----------



## rickpaulos (May 17, 2022)

the stock Schwinn rims are double layer sheet metal. Very heavy and very prone to getting dents from hitting potholes.  Once dented the brakes will thump when the blips hit the brake pads.  The double layer rims are hard to un-dent.  Aluminum rims are so much lighther weight and really make the bike easier to ride. Also new aluminum rims will be the correct size so fitting new 27" tires isn't a big hassle. 700c may also fit if the brakes have enough adjustment room left.  There is a lot more tire selection in 700c vs 27".  27" is pretty much just 27x 1 & 1/4" and nothing else. 700c is availabe nearly any size form 23mm to 50mm.  You can run a wider tire (that will clear the frame).  A wider tire can usually handle potholes, seams and cracks in the concrete, etc, better.


----------



## rickpaulos (May 17, 2022)

FYI, Schwinn 1-piece cranks have 28tpi bearing threading.  The rest of industry uses 24tpi threading.  There are some aftermarket bbs that have seals to try to protect the bearings.  Although I've seen plenty of bikes with seals that do a far better job of keeping water in.  You can also buy caged bearings for 1 piece cranks with 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 balls in the cages.  More contact points spreads the loads out so they should last longer.  

Changing to a 3 piece crank has a number of measurement issues that will frustrate first timers.  A too long axle will put the 3 piece sprockets out so far the derailleur can't reach to shift in to high gear.  Too short and you can get chain suck so bad you can't get the chain out. Each brand/ model of crank will require a different length axle.  Trial and error is the easiest way to sort it out but not if you have to buy the test fit parts. The stock derailleur is a 'road double' meant for 2 chainrings only with a 39-52 tooth range.  It's tempting to put on a mtb triple crank but then you need a mtb triple derailleur with a clamp size that won't fit the skinny 1" seat tube on the Schwinn ef frame.  Most bikes have 1 & 1/8" seat tubes or larger.


----------



## Archie Sturmer (May 17, 2022)

Welcome to the CABE, old bike (nut) guy!

What color do you plan to paint it?
I would recommend choosing a primer spray can similar to the final finish spray paint color.
That way hides chips and scratches better.
Also, some nice brown tones will hide rust, and there are some spray paint primers in similar brownish colors.  Remember, some bikes thieves may think that it’s okay to steal a rusty bike, because, after all, it’s rusty.

First steps might be a regular handle bars arrangement, like for normal people, and a seat (aka. saddle) with big comfortable springs, fenders (aka. mud guards), a rear rack, lights, and a regular kick stand, (if it does not have one).

Later, one might figure out how to fit wider and more comfortable tires/wheels, in order to cushion the ride.

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/replace-1970s-vintage-bottom-bracket-with-square-taper.208622/

QUIZ:  What is a binomial gear number?


----------



## Arnold Ziffel (May 18, 2022)

Heck yes, you can convert to a 3 piece crank.   There are at least twenty different threads over on https://www.bikeforums.net
which give complete details on how someone converted their SUPER SPORT,  or more lowly CONTINENTAL / VARSITY.
Why would you even want to do away with the NEVER PROBLEMATIC, BULLET PROOF, Ashtabula 1 Piece CRANK?
You don't need to reduce weight!      The only reason to consider the 3 piece is to make the bike lighter.
The CONTINENTAL is a boat anchor.
You would reduce weight by perhaps one pound.
You are building a tourist bike,  not a racing style bike,  so a pound or two isn't going to matter.
A much more serious concern however is the overall gear range that you employ if you are converting to
a five speed set up  with  a single front chainwheel and  the stock '73 Continental (model F,  14-28 ) freewheel.
A much much better choice would be the (shimano, japanese built  model J,  14-32) freewheel which is on the SUBURBAN
5 speeds (1970 -1976)  and on the 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATE  five speed models.     The late sixties and seventies era 
VARSITY/CONTINENTAL and '64-'69 Collegiate have the same (model F, 14-28) freewheel.
The 10 speed SUBURBAN has the same (model F, 14-28) freewheel,  as the SUBURBAN 10 speed is simply an UPGRADED VARSITY Tourist model,  as the Suburban 10 speed is exactly like the Varsity except that the Suburban has the tubular front fork of the Continental.       The Varsity Tourist's final year was 1969.   Suburban made its debut in 1970.

You will seriously need to consider what LOW GEAR that you have in order to climb hills more successfully.  The 1964-1969 COLLEGIATE is awful in  hill climbing   in  comparison  to any 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATE.
The Europeans could not produce a rear derailleur that could reliably shift anything larger than a 28 cog.
The Huret Allvit that Schwinn employed was perhaps one of the Europeans best in terms of functionality and reliability  but it was still second rate by a country mile to the Japanese rear derailleurs.       Schwinn began using Shimano  specifically on the 1970 SUBURBAN  5 speed  and  the 1970 COLLEGIATE 5 speed.         

Formula to Calculate  GEAR NUMBER:

Number of TEETH on Front Sproket   is  the  NUMERATOR
Number of TEETH on Rear  Sprocket is  the  DENOMINATOR

Example:
 bike has 27 inch wheel(630mm)
45 teeth Front Sprocket
15 teeth Rear Sprocket

45  divided  by  15    =   'result'

Now  take the  'result'    and  MULTIPLY  x   wheel diameter    =  GEAR NUMBER

*Depending on what wheels that your bike has,  YOU WILL USE either  27  or  26  as your wheel diameter*

As a rule  if  your bike is  27 (630mm)  or 700C (622mm),    YOU WILL USE  27 for the wheel diameter.
As a rule  if your  bike  is  26  (597mm) or  (590mm),  (584mm)  (571mm)  or  (559mm),   YOU WILL USE 26 as wheel diameter.

Example continued:
45 divided by 15  =  'result'
take  'result'  and multiply  x  wheel diameter = GEAR NUMBER
45 divided by 15 = 3
3  x  27  =  81 GEAR

********** This simple calculation WILL GIVE YOU OUTSTANDING COMPARATIVE Gear Numbers BETWEEN SIMILAR BIKES**

As you know, you can IMPROVE Low Gearing  in  a couple of ways:
You can  GO with a LARGER REAR COG,  assuming no change to the front chain ring.
You can GO with a SMALLER FRONT CHAIN RING, assuming no change to the REAR COG.
Now, of course, you certainly can do a combination of both if you want to, within allowable limits.

Now, you certainly know that reducing the single FRONT CHAIN RING (making the front chain ring Smaller)  WILL REDUCE THE TOP-SPEED POTENTIAL of said bike, assuming the rider could make full use of that potential in the first place.
So you do need to recognize that because that realistically does limit how practically small that you would want to go on the single front chain ring

Here is something to consider,  assuming that you convert that '73 Continental to 5 speed with the existing 14-28 freewheel.
It is my opinion that You Would Need to find a 42T front chain ring for the Ashtabula 1 piece Crank  IN ORDER TO GET YOU MINIMALLY DECENT ENOUGH HILL CLIMBING,  as well as decent enough practical & useable Top End gear.
(42)
14-16-20-24-28-Model F freewheel on Continental/Varsity/10spSUBURBANs
81-71-57-47-41-GEAR NUMBERs(already calculated for you based on 42 teeth front)


As you can see below,  the  SUBURBAN 5 speed with 14-32 Model J freewheel and stock 46T front chainring 
(46T)
14-17-21-26-32-Model J freewheel on SUBURBAN 5 speed
89-73-59-48-39-GEAR NUMBERs

As you can see below, the 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATE 5 speed with 14-32 Model J freewheel and stock 46T front
(46T)
14-17-21-26-32-Model J freewheel on 1970-1977 COLLEGIATE 5 speed
85-70-57-46-37-GEAR NUMBERs


The  CONTINENTAL/VARSITY/10spSuburban    52/39 front  with 14-28 Model F freewheel
(39T  small ring)
14-16-20-24-28-Model F freewheel
75-66-53-44-38-GEAR NUMBERs

(52T Large front ring)
.14-16-20-24-28-Model F freewheel
100-88-70-58-50-GEAR NUMBERs


****As you can clearly see, THE 1970-1977 COLLEGIATE has better HILL CLIMBING Ability than the Conti/Varsity/10spSUB*
Yes, that is right because 37 GEAR NUMBER is better than 38 GEAR NUMBER as far as hill climbing ability!!
Though the SUBURBAN 5 speed DOES HAVE THE SAME 14-32 freewheel and 46T front as the 1970 -1977 COLLEGIATE, the reason that the '70-'77 Collegiate calculates a 37 GEAR NUMBER  while the Suburban 5 speed calculates a 39 GEAR NUMBER is because the Collegiate has 26 inch (597mm) wheels  and the Suburban has 27 inch (630mm) wheels.

Now,  do you remember that I said earlier that the 1964-1969 COLLEGIATE has AWFUL Hill Climbing in relation to the '70-'77.
*1964-1969 collegiate with 14-28 model F freewheel**
(46 T front chainring)
14-16-20-24-28-Model F freewheel  on '64-'69 Collegiate
85-75-60-50-43-GEAR NUMBERs

****As you can clearly see that 43 GEAR of the 1964-1969 Collegiate  is AWFUL when compared to the 37 GEAR of the 1970-1977 Collegiate*


NOW JUST FOR THE HECK OF IT,  What will you have if you just Go with the single 46T schwinn front chainring on a stock CONTINENTAL/VARSITY/or 10 sp Suburban with 14-28 model F freewheel
(46 T front chain ring)
14-16-20-24-28-Model F freewheel on late sixties and seventies era CONTINENTAL/VARSITY and seventies SUB 10 speed.
89-78-62-52-44-GEAR NUMBERs

***As you can see that IF YOU JUST Go with the single 46T schwinn front chainring when converting a CONTINENTAL or VARSITY or 10 speed SUB. ,    YOU WILL END UP WITH A RELATIVELY HORRIBLE 44 GEAR NUMBER for hill climbing.
Hey,  the numbers don't lie.
Do calculations before you proceed,  UNLESS you live in an area where everything is as flat as a billiard table.
(*This is WHY that I suggested that you consider choosing a 42 TEETH front chainring   as   it  will give you a 41 GEAR lowest gear that would be minimally adequate for Hills.*)

******IN MY OPINION,  useful Gearing,  WILL MATTER A HECKUVA LOT MORE THAN WHETHER THE DANG BIKE HAS A 1 piece Crank  OR A   3 piece Crank.       You would be stupid in my opinion to change out the 1 piece crank!
The #64 SCHWINN CAGED BEARINGS are fantastic.    Clean them with a  30 min soak in about two ounces of Formula 87 in a cut in half  aluminum Coke or Beer can.    Formula 87 is 87 octane, same thing that powers your lawnmower and car.
THEN LIBERALLY REPACK the two #64 caged bearings WITH synthetic, waterproof "GREEN GREASE" (thats a brand name, company's out of Texas) available at auto parts stores in a 14 oz plastic cylinder cartridge, that you can open and spoon out what you'll need and the close it up and store the huge remaining amount.  Cost is ten bucks at NAPA and AUTOZONE, the other auto parts store chains will be approximately 0.85 to 1.50 more in pricing on Green Grease.   You cannot find a better grease for the 1 piece bottom bracket at any price.    Now, having said that, realistically any ordinary military spec automobile/vehicle grease from 1939 or 1943  will do the job..........it will require re-greasing much more frequently but a bicycle doesn't spin the bearings anywhere near  how an autobile wheel axle does,  so  it is not that critical,   only that you do use a liberal amount of clean new grease,  no matter if its from a can of grease from World War II era.     If you have to buy grease for the job anyway, my suggestion is go for the synthetic waterproof "Green Grease"  or something compareable,  as the cost is not much considering the 14oz quantity that you do get.

Whatever you do decide,  there is a practical solution for you.
Do calculate the gearing that you think you will require.
Nothing is worse than having a bike that you otherwise like but that is a real bear to climb a hill with.
Be smart and do it like you were the factory engineer.
Heck,  you have so many possible front chainwheels that you can use on the 1 piece ashtabula Schwinn crank.
Now, do remember that IF you do go with a rear freewheel that has anything larger than a 28 cog, YOU WILL NEED TO EMPLOY A  shimano  OR  maedaSUNTOUR  rear derailleur  that can shift a 32 or 34 cog.
The  shimano built  GT-100  schwinn approved rear derailleur(1970-1973 suburban 5 speed & 1970-1973 Collegiate)
and the shimano built GT-120 schwinn approved rear derailleur(1974-'77  five speed Suburbans & Collegiates)
These shimano built GT-100 and GT-120, were occasionally installed on Varsity/continentals  when the Chicago factory production line was out of the Huret Allvits that ordinarily were installed on to Varsity/continentals.  
Count yourself lucky if you own a Varsity with the shimano built rear derailleur as the Allvit is second rate in comparison to the shimano.

Now,   I recommend that when anyone converts any ten speed from drop bars to tourist handlebars,  that they should GO With the 7881  Schwinn handlebars,  which in my opinion are the best ever made, as far as shape, width, rise, and overall comfort.
I have converted about 35 various ten and twelve speeds using the 7881 Schwinn bars exclusively.   Many of those 35 bikes were indeed other makes' 10 speeds,  but on every single converted bicycle that I have done,  I use ONLY the WEINMANN-diacompe  Aluminum Alloy  22.2m  TOURIST BRAKE LEVERS as found on various SCHWINNS between about 1964 and 1979/'80.       I have used RED DOT knife edge,  RED DOT ball end,  ORANGE DOT ball end.......they are all functionally the same.    I don't care as long as they are clean and look nice enough.   So yes, I've installed maybe more valuable RED DOT knife edge levers from a circa '65 Schwinn on to an early eighties Sears Free Spirit that I converted from drop bars to 1967-1977 Schwinn 7881 handlebars.        These Weinman TOURIST BRAKE LEVERS of the sixties and seventies are extremely durable and they are very simple to install and mount, utilizing a very user friendly FLATHEAD SCREW for tightening/loosening.
The BELL PITCREW 600 Cable set  is  the best buy that you can make if you change from drop bars to tourist bars,  or if you just need to replace any or all cables.      NOW,  YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE THE BRAKE CABLES WHEN YOU SWITCH FROM  drop bars  TO tourist bars with Tourist Levers  BECAUSE THE Brakes on DROP BARS utilize a mushroom bullet like cable end,  WHILE THE Tourist Levers utilize a cable end that is shaped like an Adult ASPIRIN tablet.
The Bell Pitcrew 600 Cable set comes with the aluminum ferrules that are perfect shape, fit, and look  for those ancient Weinmann  Tourist Brake Levers (you know where the cable exists from the Weinmann tourist Lever...that Ferrule is included in the BELL 600 Cable set......you get two of them.......so you need not worry if the used set of Weinmann Tourist  Brake Levers actually have those ferrules included with them from your ebay or cabe source.
You will need a Brake Cable cutter and BIKESMITHS has a no name red colored one for approx $16 that is identical in shape, and design as the much more expensive Pedro's  and Park Tool   brake cable cutters.     It works just as good.   It may not last as long but I have done over thirty five bikes with this $16 tool,  so I would say that there is no reason to pay more.
The Bell Pitcrew 600 Cable set sells for around $10 or $11 and Ace Hardware has it ONLINE (not in Ace stores) and Walmart online, and some Walmart stores carry it in store,  and you'll surely find other online vendors that carry the BELL PITCREW 600 Cable set. 

I hope this information is helpful in your Conversion To  5 speed Tourist Model.
The ancient electroforged Schwinns  make fantastic Tourist style riders, with 7881 handlebars and your favorite spring saddle tourist seat.       Again,  I would urge you to keep the 1 piece Ashtabula crank on that bike.   You'll never ever break it and you'll have no problems ever with it, because everything is easily available, should you need to replace the #64 caged bearings or the cups etc.     You have decent quality new Taiwan manufacture replacements, or you can use used near perfect original Schwinn that with a cleaning and good waterproof synthetic grease will probably  still be going strong in the year 2127, or at a minimum many thousand miles.


----------



## Siestabikes (May 18, 2022)

If going for looks and style i would simply add fenders and a tourist bar set up. if you want lightweight and still some style, I would get a 70's or 80's butted steel diamond frame with generous clearances, use wide 700c wheels/tires/long reach brakes, add fenders and aluminum tourist bar/stem combo


----------



## Jeff54 (May 18, 2022)

A simple and easy option that I have done on all my road bikes since  a teen; 1970 with Schwinns  and still do on my Treks. . Yet baffles my imagination as to why most everybody else who are NOT actual competitive racers buy them.

I mean, I put 100's and 100's of miles speeding 20-30 miles to the beach and back and daily riding for transportation, work, school etc. Up hills down, every thing, every where. And all my road bikes even now.

Yet, the public are all acting as if they are competition racers while drop bars hurt their backs. Crazy!

Surprised even now that I took a lot of searching to find one photographed.

Looks odd is all but, you can relax better when turned up-side-down. Maneuverability at a fingers touch. Rather than squeeze to brake; push forward.  Ride with no hands and or, use brake handles to steer, it's a breeze. Rather then bending into the bars you can push and pull in many different angles including when you'll need more power to get up a hill, rising up, standing on your feet and grabbing bars to pull is easier.

The standard set is aerodynamic, right. Yet, unless you are actually racing then it's a real pain in the back!

Flip em like this albeit, I tilt mine a little higher so I can pull on the top ends, verses level, and you've got much more comfort, means to control, power and more as a city, country or distance rider:


----------



## Tour De Luxe (Jun 8, 2022)

Totally agree with OldBikeGuy on the bottom bracket. The cup and cone design, well packed with grease, can handle a lot of weather. My college bike lived outside for 4 years in the rain and it never had a bearing problem. It was pretty rusty at the end of five years, but I gave it to a grad student when I left and guessing he got a couple more years out of it.

The problem with these old lightweights is that nobody seems to want them anymore. Index shifters and the comfortable grips on those new shifters makes our old Schwinns undesirable to most people nowadays. Plus as someone pointed out, the comfort bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids are the bikes of choice for most these days. Except for serious roadies, nobody rides drop bar bikes. I just refurbished a 1973 Varsity a few weeks ago and can’t find any buyers for that bike after putting about 10 hours into it and $50 in new rubber.

I did convert my sister’s old Panasonic to flat bars a couple of years ago. I had an old kid’s mountain bike that someone dumped on the curb and salvaged the bar and brake handles  from that bike for a free conversion kit. It works fine, even though my sis never uses it. I ride it when I visit her.


----------



## Denaffen (Jun 8, 2022)

I’ve built up a few city bikes. I’d do it in phases. Phase 1: simply slap on some upright bars, along with the cable, brakes and grips. 

Ride that for a bit. then decide:

do you need to swap the seat?
how’s the braking and tires? A 700c conversion might be smart. Pay attention to axle lengths and hub widths. If you go this route a bump to six or seven speeds might be an easy upgrade.
if I upgraded to 7 in the rear I’d probably keep the one piece crank but pare back to a single chain wheel and no from derailleur.

at that point it’d be a pretty good city bike, I think


----------



## Martin Bike Nut (Sep 5, 2022)

Here's how this project ended - at least for now.  It turns out that the 22" frame is really too small for me, so I found a 24" Sport Tourer to which I'm going to transfer the wheels, components, etc.


----------



## Nelgroe (Sep 6, 2022)

I see you finished and it looks great!...I've done that a few times with Continentals, Varsities and the like...Cheap and easy, the biggest upside will be the alloy wheels...


----------



## Gimletbikes (Sep 6, 2022)

Martin Bike Nut said:


> Here's how this project ended - at least for now.  It turns out that the 22" frame is really too small for me, so I found a 24" Sport Tourer to which I'm going to transfer the wheels, components, etc.
> 
> View attachment 1691326
> 
> ...



Nice work - really clean. Interested to see it all tranferred over to the Sport Tourer


----------

