# Colson Rear Steer



## jd56

Will be starting on this project soon.
Haven't determined the year yet, my guess is 1938-1940.

As found





Ready for packing...thanks XBPete for the help.





The one issue that needs repair
The front fork is caddywampused 











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## Awhipple

I would love to have one of those.


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## keith kodish

Nice ride,JD,you're right bout the guestimate on the year,too. Fork ain't nothing,you got skills!

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## jd56

It finally arrived and the revival begins.
Sending the fork out today to be straightened. 
Working on getting replacement fenders.
But, started a little bit of cleaning.
Turns out the bike was/is maroon with white and black pinstripping. 
Lots of years of faded and penetrated patina. 
Not sure I'll get the color popping or even resurface again. 
But, I'll attempt a crack at it.























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## jd56

Been working on reviving the OG paint on this and have found little to save.
Even went to the trusty 3M heavy rubbing compound.




Was wondering...did Colson primed their frames before paint?
And if so, did they use gray primer?




Burned the paint here it looks like.




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## Boris

JD- Sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats you. But the kind of finish that you're getting has it's own kind of beauty too, don't you think?


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## jd56

Dave Marko said:


> JD- Sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats you. But the kind of finish that you're getting has it's own kind of beauty too, don't you think?



It does, high expectations, we all get pulled down occasionally. 

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## jd56

That paint's the least of my worries on this revival.
I had the rear steer handlebar stem stuck and thought my talents using a deadblow could get it out with a few whacks,  well I egged the daggum sleeve.
Must have gotten the stem angled some how.
Hurrying can be detrimental. Not like I can go find another replacement. Pisses me off.

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## jd56

Oh and fordmike says it's a 39

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## vincev

Had 2 of these Kept one.I was told it was a 38.Dont know.


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## fordmike65

This particular bikes is a '39.


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## CrazyDave

I hate agreeing with Dave, but I gotta on the paint, certainly has it's appeal!  Man that sucks about rear umm headtube?...I am looking forward to seeing what you do with that.  I hope the rest of this bike goes well for ya man, may the bike gods smile upon you


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## jd56

vincev said:


> Had 2 of these Kept one.I was told it was a 38.Dont know.



Mike said, the flat braces were 38 and this had curved fender braces making it a 39.

I still haven't mastered deciphering of these serial numbers but, here's the serial.





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## Boris

Serial number is the bottom letter and number in most cases. In this case B=February being the second month of the year. And 9=1939. If it was a 0 it would be 1940 etc. Very easy.


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## jd56

Got the repaired fork back today.
Big difference. 
Thanks George 

From this mess




Looks straight now 




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## CrazyDave

About as good as a guy could hope for IMHO, looks a helluva lot better man!


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## tanksalot

Try to wet sand the frame 1000-1200  grit auto body grade sand paper. Lots of water & a bit or dawn dish soap keep checking progress.


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## jd56

Wow, thought for sure that this fork would never be perfect again but, it got pretty daggum straight.

Before 







Fixed







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## jd56

Sure is a lot of bike for one bike stand



So here's the issue with the rear steer tube. 
Any idea how to get this sleeve round again?
Can't get the top race off or thread on the top nut now.
Bummmmer 










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## CrazyDave

Im a stupid bass turd, but I would try to find some thing that fit the ID of the headset and pound it in.....beautiful bike you have no matter how "perfect" it come out....a rear steer tandem is on my short list, so this is educational to me man.....great save on a old rust pile, much respect just for that.


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## jd56

CrazyDave said:


> Im a stupid bass turd, but I would try to find some thing that fit the i.d. of the headset and pound it in.....beautiful bike you have no matter how "perfect" it come out....a rear steer tandem is on my short list, so this is educational to me man.....great save on a old rust pile, much respect just for that.



Thanks Dave. I did use another stem inserted in the tube and using a block of wood and a hammer, I got the totally egged sleeve back to this shape. Still not good enough yet.

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## jd56

http://thecabe.com/forum/index.php?threads/94004/

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## jd56

More progress.
Got the fenders today ...thanks fordmike. 
Color matches pretty daggum close. 
Also found the closest maroon match and painted one of the chainguards.












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## fordmike65

jd56 said:


> More progress.
> Got the fenders today ...thanks fordmike.
> Color matches pretty daggum close.
> Also found the closest maroon match and painted one of the chainguards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk




Looking good JD! Was just gonna ask if they made it ok & how they looked


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## OMBAC-RAT

To round this out again, I would try and locate a machine shop that's got a lathe with a Collet Attachment. It'll be very awkward to do based on the size of the bike and will probably take at least 2 people to position the bike to get it started. However, that flared diameter should be able to be walked back down by clamping in a collet and doing a series of tighter and tighter clamps to walk it down. It should only take a few minutes IF you can find someone to do it.





jd56 said:


> So here's the issue with the rear steer tube.
> Any idea how to get this sleeve round again?
> Can't get the top race off or thread on the top nut now.
> Bummmmer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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## OMBAC-RAT

Other option, you may not like it but..... Cut the flared part of the tube so you can get it the tube removed. Get another section of tube from some scrap forks and splice it. I've done this a couple times. (There are some typos in the pictures below, sorry)


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## jd56

Thanks for all the tips guys.
I did get the tube straight enough to chase the threads with a thread file. And now the top race and top nut threads on easily enough. 

http://thecabe.com/forum/index.php?posts/603140

Next is servicing the crank bearings.
Little worried about attacking the front crank though. Never been there before. 

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## jd56

OK, as I suspected,  I'm stumped on the left front crank arm removal. 
Appears the arm is retained with a cap nut. Also it looks like there may be a shim on the shaft.

It sure would be helpful if someone here could show me this set up taken apart so I know what I'm getting into.
My problem is, I can't revive a bike without servicing all the bearings. 

I'll assume this slotted cap nut is left handed threads and a special tool should be used to back it off.

Anybody here, have experience doing thus removal? 








Here's the center cap nut...








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## jd56

I mentioned a center cap, which is actually the end of the crank shaft. 
That socket used is a 1/2" impact flat screwdriver that I modified with a grinder to accommodate the dome shaped cap retainer nut.

Now to get the crank arm off

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## mike j

I love these bikes, on my short list also, though starting to experience some spacial issues now. I would try heating up the tube to maybe light red, then slowly backing out the race, w/ vice grips, to the top. Leave it there till it cools, lubricate w/ good oil, tighten & loosen a couple of times before removing. Patience is key. Good luck w/ it, that's a lot of bike you've got there.


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## jd56

Of course it all couldn't be smooth sailing from here.

The shaft on this front crank is three sided. The crank arm should just slide or wiggle off...NOT!@#%☆!
Have tried heating the arm, used every penetrating oil imaginable that I can get my hands on including the fail safe Kroil. Using a pickle fork to wedge in the confined area seemed to be the tool I needed.
Not that this is the case but, it appears that there is a shim wdged (fused) on one of the sides of the 3 sided shaft...really?

Any ideas guys, on how to get this daggum thing off so I can service the bearings which, I'm sure while using the torch I've burnt what bearing grease was there if any?
I love a challenge but come short of maybe a bearing puller I can't  get this thing to budge






Here's what looks like a shim












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## TRM

jd56 said:


> Was wondering...did Colson primed their frames before paint?
> And if so, did they use gray primer?




I'm a little late to the party here, but My Colson looptail appears to have grey primer showing through the paint also.


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## jd56

TRM said:


> I'm a little late to the party here, but My Colson looptail appears to have grey primer showing through the paint also.
> View attachment 347277



Thanks Jim.
Nice blister by the way 

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## HIGGINSFOREVER

J.D have you talked to Norberto, he had his restored.He had a parts bike that I bought and resold but he still may have some parts leftover.


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## jd56

Hey Gene, I did, even bought the needed front crank assembly from him this past week for the other rear steer I have.




His instructions to remove the arm on my stubborn one was, take the retaining cap nut off and wiggle the arm off the shaft. 
That ain't happening. 
Good to see your still lurking around here.

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## XBPete

JD...

Air impact with skilled user.... then the oil, don't think even Kroil would get in that triangular area with that shim..

This old girl just wants to stay together,,, what a fight... 

The mechanism itself should be interesting once you get that arm off,,,, 

Good luck!


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## jd56

Thanks Craig. I know you felt with the frustration trying to break it all free before shipping.
Yeah the Kroil is not seeping into the the two pieces. There's just no gaps to allow seepage 

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## jd56

XBPete said:


> JD...
> 
> Air impact with skilled user.... then the oil, don't think even Kroil would get in that triangular area with that shim..
> 
> This old girl just wants to stay together,,, what a fight...
> 
> The mechanism itself should be interesting once you get that arm off,,,,
> 
> Good luck!



Here's what I hope to find inside the crank







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## TRM

That photo should give you hope! It appears that the three sided shaft is tapered which means that when it finally does break loose it will come off easily.
I had a frozen stem/wedge in my Monark several years ago that refused to give much like your crank. My solution was to soak it daily with PB Blaster, give it a few whacks with a hammer and walk away. I repeated this routine for almost a full month. Patience is the key component! Finally after any logical reasoning could'nt support my method any longer, it moved slightly. I knew then that victory was mine!

I feel like the same thing could work here using the pickle fork. Every day that you give it a couple of jolts, the PB works its way in just a little deeper (ever so slightly) until it finally reaches the critical point. To quote Tom Petty, the waiting is the hardest part!

Good luck my friend! Cool project.


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## Boris

...and from the "Little to No Help Department"...
Maybe you should consider changing your signature to, "It's all about crank plights. "


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## jd56

Well the freeze concept didn't do a thing.
Did manage to break the pickle fork.
Come short of a steering wheel puller this arm ain't coming off.

I only concentrated the freezing to the shaft, crank arm looks frozen in the picture but, just residual frost from the shaft.









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## TRM

Pickle forks are meant to be driven straight in with a hammer much the same as a wood splitter wedge. I've never seen one break like that. Are you using the pickle fork to pry like a crowbar? If so, that may be why it's not working.


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## jd56

TRM said:


> Pickle forks are meant to be driven straight in with a hammer much the same as a wood splitter wedge. I've never seen one break like that. Are you using the pickle fork to pry like a crowbar? If so, that may be why it's not working.



Yes to both.
Used as a wedge to force the arm free from the shaft and also using as a pry bar. 

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## TRM

Maybe you can find a mechanic that has an air chisel with pickle fork and take it to them to try.


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## fordmike65

TRM said:


> Maybe you can find a mechanic that has an air chisel with pickle fork and take it to them to try.


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## Autocycleplane

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html


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## jd56

fordmike65 said:


> View attachment 348076



I wish....maybe I can rent one from home depot.

Just have a feeling the bearings might look like this now







This out if the spare crank I just bought for the other rear tandem that is missing the correct one.










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## TRM

jd56 said:


> I wish....maybe I can rent one from home depot.



Also try calling the auto parts stores in your area. It's typically used for removing tie rods, they would be more likely to rent that type of tool. If you have a mechanic that you go to for your car, ask them.


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## jd56

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## fordmike65

jd56 said:


> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk




Good luck JD. Those things are poop.


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## jd56

fordmike65 said:


> Good luck JD. Those things are poop.



I figured but, if it fails I kept the receipt.
Yeah, for only $25, I don't expect much.
Maybe it will break after I break this daggum arm free.

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## jd56

Just curious, what grips were these 39 rear steers equipped with?
Owner want to buy two sets.
I was thinking that era they used coke bottles

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## Autocycleplane

I've had great success using two and three arm gear pullers before. One of my modern town bikes had a crank seized onto the square tapered spindle and the gear puller popped it right off with little to no marks on the crankarm that I taped up with a few layers of masking tape beforehand.


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## jd56

jd56 said:


> I figured but, if it fails I kept the receipt.
> Yeah, for only $25, I don't expect much.
> Maybe it will break after I break this daggum arm free.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk



Well the air chisel gun held up as did the pickle fork but, no go on budging this dang arm free.
I only see one last option, a 2 or 3 legged (claw) gear puller.
Thinking a 2 claw model would fut best.
If that don't work, I'll give up trying to conquer this challenge. 
Just won't grease the bearings is all.


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## jd56

Jaws aren't deep enough and won't fit...oh well






Hate to say it but, it (the crank arm) kicked my a$$.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.  I'm not a quitter, but I give up.

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## fordmike65

Part of the problem now is those dang HF tools JD. Have you tried a lil heat?


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## jd56

fordmike65 said:


> Part of the problem now is those dang HF tools JD. Have you tried a lil heat?



I have Mike, as well as freezing the shaft, air chisel,  pickle forks, pry bars, a sledge, and  a lot of cussing and a couple banged up knuckles.
I'd say it whipped me. Hate to admit it but, it is what it is.
The new owner said don't worry about it as long as the hub spins freely, which it did before I started this mission.

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## TRM

At least you put up a valiant fight and went down swinging.  I'm disappointed that I won't get to see inside though.


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## jd56

[emoji35] [emoji54] [emoji15] [emoji16] [emoji30] [emoji24] [emoji36] [emoji43] 

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## cyclonecoaster.com

jd56 said:


> Just curious, what grips were these 39 rear steers equipped with?




I believe mine has ball end grips .. ladies & mens versions .. Coke bottles are too long on the original bars ... I have to pull mine out of storage & get you some pics ...


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## bikiba

Don't give up!


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## bikiba

bikiba said:


> Don't give up!




after I watch this video I feel like I can kick the world's @$$ ... or at least blow up a balloon ...


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## jd56

Getting there, even though I was unsuccessful with the front crank arm. But, it spins freely enough.
Just through the rims and creme tires on to see what it looks like.
Need to install the trussrods, chains, chainguards, rear rack, dropstand and clip.
Find some reflector his and hers teardrop pedals, then the grips I ordered.
And soon can test drive this beast.









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## jd56

Installed and adjusted the chains and steer rods. 
Took it for a spin around the block in the neighborhood and come short of some slop in the steering it rode rather smoothly. 
Wonder if the rear steering play is normal? I've got the chain and rods as tight as I can get them.








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## fordmike65

Man that looks awesome! Told ya those fenders & light would look great on there!


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## XBPete

Man JD,, hard to believe that is the same rust bucket...

freakin gorgeous,, nicely done!


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## jd56

OK, finally I get to test ride this monster...






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## Colby john

Jd , mine has a little bump feel we sterring from rear.

John


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## jd56

Colby john said:


> Jd , mine has a little bump feel we sterring from rear.
> 
> John



Hey, no bump feeling but, I do have a bit more slop or play than I hoped for. Still trying to figure that all out.
But, the success story is, it's rolling and rideable again.

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## Colby john

Looks good


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## Boris

Great job John!!! I think the white tires look real good on it too.


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## rustjunkie

looking really good, nice job.
slop in the steering might come from worn ("stretched") chain?


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## jd56

Dave Marko said:


> Great job John!!! I think the white tires look real good on it too.



Thx Dave...the tires look white in the dim light but, are actually Duro brick creme tires.

"slop in the steering might come from worn ("stretched") chain?"

And you might be right, the steer tube chains may be stretched. They are the original chains.

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## HIGGINSFOREVER

You need a blow up doll for that front seat


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## Benryannj

So this is an old thread but it helped me a lot as I was having exactly the same problem removing the left crank arm on my Colson rear steer tandem.

I managed to eventually find a solution which was to place two pieces of 1’ angle iron each side of the arm (there was just enough space to slot them behind). This then gave me the surface to use a puller - I had the same harbor freight ones... this worked perfect first time.
Hope that helps someone if they find themselves in the same place and come across this thread.

Your bike came out looking great... mine is a wreck and I also have bent forks..


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## Balloonoob

How come these rear steer tandems have bent forks? Back rider can't see? Person in fronts only job is to yell stop and hit the brakes    LOL.


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## Benryannj

Balloonoob said:


> How come these rear steer tandems have bent forks? Back rider can't see? Person in fronts only job is to yell stop and hit the brakes    LOL.



Yep, every tandem I've owned (all two of them), have had bent front forks from prior accidents... I guess the extra weight and momentum of two people make a big difference here too. My Colson has a slight bend in the front frame too so it must have taken quite a whack.


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## jd56

These were called " Courting Bikes" then soon redubbed the "Divorce Bike" because the two riders argued quickly on which way (left or right) to go and eventually dumped the bike in the drink...I guess

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## jd56

My newest project rearsteer.
1938. This one was repainted red and even the front fender has a recalled number on it for the rental department at whatever lake camp or boardwalk hotel it was used at.






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