# Help me ID this year Mercury



## jd56 (Nov 16, 2011)

I have tried researching the "Murray serial number project" list. I don't see the numbers listed.

Attached are pictures of the bike I picked up today (Thanks Allan). 
Murray Mercury. 
Stamped numbers below the crank are as follows: MON 23 or 28? 783787. 
Please help me figure this out.
MO stands for Murray Ohio (Im sure of)
Does the "N" in the MON stamping mean 57"?
The following number is either 23 or 28...standing for the model or indicate that it is a Murray?  
If  it indicates the model, which model?

On an earlier post I created, someone mentioned it was 47-48' based on just the frontal picture I posted (I didn't have the numbers yet).
There are some nonstock items installed on the bike and the color used to be blue.
Does the tank look correct? Most of the Murray Mercury's in the 50's era that I have seen, seemed to have a squared forward edged tank at the head tube rather than this rounded one? 
The previous owner said that's what was on the bike and when he did the quick red and white repaint he left the tank alone other than cleaning it up because of the water transfer decals
The chainguard looks right I guess.
Love the split tooth sprocket and it has a Musselman coaster brake. The rear sprocket seems to date it mid 50's. Interesting design with the holes.

Please let me know what you think is not correct on the bike.
I would also gather the value to be near $150?

Thanks in advance.
JD

Here is what the Murray Serial Number project has listed:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

*Murray Serial Number project*
I don't know how far back this goes , but I know that* Murray used a single letter to represent the year since at least 1949*. Most of these bikes up until the early 60's had the serial number stamped on the bottom of the bottom bracket. I have seen the letters MOS stamped on most of these. I ASSUME that they stand for Murray Ohio Supply. *This is usually followed by a - and a single letter. That letter will be the year code*. After the year code will be a 2 or 3 digit number that stands for the model number. 
This excludes bikes built for Sears and Gambles(Hiawatha). Sears bikes had a 502 and Gambles bikes had a WG or a WG and a single digit at the beginning if there serial number. Sears bikes then had a 2 to 5 digit number afterwards that stood as the model number and was actually used in there catalogs as the part number. Gambles Hiawathas were the same way. 

F = 49
G = 50
H = 51
I = 52
J = 53
K = 54
L = 55
M = 56
N = 57
P = 58
R = 59
S = 60
T = 61 
U or V = 62
W = 63
X = 64
Y = 65

In 65 they were changing there serial number style and by then they were on the left rear dropout. Some 65 bikes had an MO5 which stood for Murray Ohio 1965. After these 3 digits was a 2 or 3 digit model number followed by an X and a 1 or 2 digit number that I will discuss momentarily.
MO5 = 65
MO6 = 66
MO7 = 67 
MO8 = 68
In 69, they changed the layout yet again. They dropped the O. They also went to a 4 digit model number.
M9 = 69
M0 = 70
and so on.
This is what I have so far on the X numbers. We need to add to the list as more show up. Ron and I were talking about these numbers recently. We figure that a customer had to order a minimum number of bikes per order to have there own X number. If they didn't order a minimum number of bikes, they possibly shared an X number with a Murray badged bike. So, we assume that the X number was in effect a store code to simplify orders on the production floor. Kenny.
X1 = Atkins
X3 = Vanguard??? Murray badged 
X6  = Flying O  (Otasco-Oklahoma Tire and Supply Company)
X7 = BF Goodrich
X8 = Firestone 
X10 = Westernflyer (Western Auto) 
X12 = All Pro (Kmart) 
X13 = Murray 
X18 = Hiawatha (Gambles)
X23 = Murray 
X25 = Foremost (JC Penneys) 
X26= Guaranty's
X28 = Fleetwing Tigercat
X30 = Gambles
X31 = Gambles 
X32 = Parkleigh
X34 = Liberty (Chicago Cycle Supply Company)
X35 = Liberty (Chicago Cycle Supply Company)
X36 = Liberty (Chicago Cycle Supply Company)
X40 = Murray
X43 = Murray 
X55 = Murray (Gordon Bicycle Supply Co.)
X56 = Ben Hur
X63 = Hallmark
X65 = Murray - Special for 1965 (in 65 only, could have been used other years as a different meaning) 
X67 = Sportscrest 
X69 = Special for 1969 (in 69 only, could have been used other years as a different meaning) 
X70 = Special for 1970 (in 70 only, could have been used other years as a different meaning) 
X71 = Sportscrest (?) Also Special for 1971 (in 71 only,could have been used other years as different meaning)
X73 = Walco badge and Dayton badge ( Walthour & Hood Co. in Atlanta) 
X81 = Murray 
X82 = Murray 
X83 = Might actually be a Sears number?????? 
X84 = Murray
X92 = Federal
X95 = AMC
X97 = Murray
X98 = Swarthmore


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## dougfisk (Nov 16, 2011)

If that is a 57, I will eat my hat...  Your letter codes start at 49, and I'm still saying it's just prior to that.  I think RMS37 could nail it.  Is the Musselman rear hub smooth or does it have big ridges on it?

integral seat clamp = early
forward facing dropouts= not as early
tank graphics= early
rack= early
narrow peaked fenders= early
pedals= early
chainguard= early

It is hard to put a value on a non-original-paint girls bike.  Most collectors value them at the sum of their parts value.  $150 is not out of the question.


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## jd56 (Nov 16, 2011)

Thanks Doug,
The list may not be right. It's the only thing for reference I could find.
I think your right that RMS37 would know the answers as well as the rest of the gurus here.

That's why I'm here.
The Musselman is a smooth hub
It would suck if the frame is not correct with all the other parts seem mid 50's. I always thought that that style seat post was indictative to early than 
There is difinetly a shadetree paint job, which I'm not too worried about. The wife likes it and she'll look good riding it. Given the paint, it would reduce the value a good bit. There is overspray throughout and the chainguard inside wasn't painted. But if this is a frankenstien then I would be concerned. hell I traded a late 40's Shelby for this bike.


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## dougfisk (Nov 16, 2011)

smooth hub= early

I don't think it's a frankenstein, I think it is a mostly intact early postwar.  I'm not sure why you are fixated on mid-50's.  Is that what you wanted it to be? I think you already know what is not consistent: seat is much later (early 60's Schwinn?), and light is columbia repo.   Bars and stem *might* be later, but maybe not, and not by much.  Grips are repo that are too early in style.  Everything else is consistent with early postwar in my humble opinion.

If you want to eliminate 95% of the visual discordance: 1) sell the seat and buy a proper earlier sprung seat in white. 2) sell the grips and get an early postwar set from memory lane.  badaboom - done!   

If your wife likes it and looks good on it, it's worth its weight in gold.


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## jd56 (Nov 16, 2011)

Actually I love the late 50's mid 60's middleweights as long as it has a tanklight. These later bikes are cool but, not really what I want to base my little collection on. It seems I keep heading that way though.
I got this because the wife is riding a walmart $79.00 bike and it was available. The Shelby is a real heavy tank riding bike and wore her out. This isn't much lighter but noticeably lighter. 
As it may be obvious, I have no clue what I want for sure. Don't know a whole lot about this hobby yet but, I'm having fun learning. Just trying to grasp what knowledge I can so when that real money maker pops up I'll be ready.
I guess it is important to me to know what components are right and wrong with the bikes. I don't know, someday I'll have some answers for a newbie here. I'm learning from the best is how I see it.
Everybody has a vice and trading bikes must be my new one. 
And the wife is happy with the bike...hot-diggy-dog!!


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## RMS37 (Nov 16, 2011)

I’m waiting for my copy of the book ABC Services has produced with information on many manufacturers’ serial numbers; I think the information therein will clear up a lot of confusion around dating Murray-Ohio bicycles. 

M-O serialed their production differently for many of the clients they sold to and it seems that the Sear bikes incorporated more information than most others. The key to dating this Mercury frame is the letter after MO, which in this case is N. I believe N will end up being 1949 in the book when we get to study it. The 23 or 28 is likely the Mercury model number for the bike. The final number is a sequential serial number but it is not clear if one sequence was run for all frames produced or if each brand had their own unique serial sequence. 

The saddle and headlight on the bike are both inappropriate, but everything else is credible. The tank is the correct early postwar girls tank with the fluted edges and the same rack was used on 1949 JCH bicycles. The chain guard is essentially a prewar Mercury unit but many prewar stampings were still being used in the late forties so it is probably correct for this bike and build.

I’m sure there will still be work to do after the ABC book is in people’s hands as there is always interpretive work to do even when the numbers are in print (Postwar Schwinn anyone?) but our biggest task will be vacuuming up the copies of the list of serial numbers-to-dates referred to and printed in this thread. 

I have been hard on that list because for the bikes I have been studying (M-O Balloons up to 1958) it never seemed to be at all credible when applied in the real world. Anyone taking on trying to bring forth and share information regarding our hobby deserves credit but the down side is that if the information turns out to be wrong you could spend the rest of your life trying to recall all the bad data (they never did get all the Evinrudes back to the factory.) I suppose it is the price to pay for getting anything out and I know I have had to convince people that something I published, and they read, is not true as what my current theory is!


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## jd56 (Nov 16, 2011)

Doug was right, as I anticipated, if anyone would have the lowdown it would be Phil.

I'm less confused now and am proud to know I might own a 49' Murray Mercury. At least til everyone get their hands on the copied lists that ABC is offering. 
The messenger seat will be replaced as my wife wants a nice cushiony seat. The issue is finding a red or white one that will marry to the L seat post.
I'd like to acquire the correct light as well. I saw another Murray with a bullet style lens chrome pedestal light. 

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt101/dogdart/Murray/008-1.jpg

Anybody have a link to a Murray catalog of these late 40's-early 50's Mercury's, that would give me an idea on the styling of correct lights and seat?

Thanks Phil and you to doug
JD


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## jd56 (Nov 22, 2011)

*Phil did you get your ABC book yet?*

I was wondering if you got your ABC book yet to check my Mercury year serial number. Serial# MON. It would be interesting to know how far off the published serial number project is.
Hel I might have to shell out $20.00 for the book. Not fair that I contact you on every questionable year, find I come accross. But I do appreciate the feedback.
Thanks in advance


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## ABC Services (Nov 22, 2011)

*date*

In the book I have for sale, it shows that the letter N = 1949


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## jd56 (Nov 23, 2011)

*sent you a pm*

I guess it is a book I need I sent you a pm this morning
Thanks for the info.


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## Adamtinkerer (Nov 23, 2011)

Interesting. I knew they reused the Mercury name for late 50s middleweights, since I have one. But didn't know about these aerly postwar ballooners. The new serial info stirred me enough to go down to the basement and find the stampings on mine. It's only clearly stamped on the bottom of the letters, but it appears to be 'MOTX  F00'. The last two numbers aren't 00, but too close to make out.


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