# What am I doing wrong - Fork threadig



## Djshakes (May 11, 2015)

So I have this girls fork that is about 2 inches longer than a boys.  Instead of grafting on a new steer-tube I figured I would run my fork threader all the way down, cut the excess tube, then back the threader off and be done.  The threading was going good until I had about and inch to go.  It started getting harder to cut the thread. I figured I would back off the threader and knock away some of the metal shards with a wire brush, then continue.  When I started threading again the threader didn't cut any threads but essentially just stripped it out.  You can see a small ledge where the threads stopped.  Was backing off the threader my problem or can you just not thread that far down (Maybe he steer tube gets wider)?  I use oil as well to lubricate.

It isn't that big of a deal because I can graft on a new tube.  Just curious.  See pic.


----------



## oskisan (May 11, 2015)

This same thing happened to me, but I had enough left and took it to a shop and had them cut the threads. I am not sure what I did wrong to this day. The metal was very soft though so I am not sure if that is what contributed to it or not


----------



## Dale Alan (May 12, 2015)

Is your die sharp ? Can't be sure from the pics,but the threads don't look very crisp. Also looks like you are trying to remove too much material,that shoulder looks pretty big. I could be wrong,I am not an expert at this.


----------



## THE STIG (May 12, 2015)

Djshakes said:


> You can see a small ledge where the threads stopped.  Was backing off the threader my problem or can you just not thread that far down (Maybe he steer tube gets wider)?  /QUOTE]
> 
> Neck wedge will expand the tube


----------



## jkent (May 12, 2015)

Don't know if it is just the picture or not but I see a wave in the "Stripped" threads. 
Something is wrong with the tube. I don't think it is anything you did wrong.
JKent


----------



## the tinker (May 12, 2015)

I want to ask is your die a new die that was made somewhere other then the U.S?  Or is it a old die that is possibly not sharp?  I have noticed the Pre war Schwinn tubes seem to be a "softer " metal. Monark ,Higgins and Columbia also are soft and easily thread. The post war Schwinn fork tubes must of been heat treated. This would explain why they seldom get bent and are harder to thread. Monark forks cut the easiest.They are also usually  found bent. So I would say either the die is a one shot use foreign tool, not sharp, or your fork is of heat treated steel,and is tempered. The method you are using is the same way I use and I have no problems and I have threaded and cut down many forks with a very old die, and a liberal amount of cutting oil.


----------



## hoofhearted (May 12, 2015)

*The steer-tube may have been ''bulged'' in that area
from the tightening of the stem.  

Have seen some of these tubes look like a satisfied 
anaconda after consuming a wild pig.*


...... patric


----------



## Djshakes (May 12, 2015)

I used my electronic calipers to measure the steertube right at the shoulder.  1 inch dead on.  Maybe it is the tool. It is made in Japan, however, I have barely used it.  I'm wondering if it had something to do with me backing it off or maybe not using enough cutting oil.  I was sweating like a pig while threading it.  Such a bummer, I only needed about another half inch of threads.


----------



## bricycle (May 12, 2015)

Don't let the die get too hot, it will take the temper out and the tool will wear sooner....


----------



## oskisan (May 12, 2015)

Dale,

How can I tell if my die is sharp and is there any way to sharpen it if it is dull (I hate to waste good bike money on buying a new one... they are not cheap).

Ken-




Dale Alan said:


> Is your die sharp ? Can't be sure from the pics,but the threads don't look very crisp. Also looks like you are trying to remove too much material,that shoulder looks pretty big. I could be wrong,I am not an expert at this.


----------



## Djshakes (May 12, 2015)

bricycle said:


> Don't let the die get too hot, it will take the temper out and the tool will wear sooner....




It was pretty hot. Maybe I will buy a new Made in the USA die to rarely use in the future. Damn it!


----------



## the tinker (May 12, 2015)

Take another fork and see if you can thread that one easily. wont ruin it. just see if you have the same problem. If not its not your die. If it was that hard to thread your tube may be tempered. I use LOTS of oil and back it off every few turns to clear the threads. I have cut threads on a out of round tube before. I was surprised that I was able to do it with good results.


----------



## oskisan (May 12, 2015)

Good call, I will also do this. I have been really gun shy since I tore the hell out of my shelby fork. 

Ken



the tinker said:


> Take another fork and see if you can thread that one easily. wont ruin it. just see if you have the same problem. If not its not your die. If it was that hard to thread your tube may be tempered. I use LOTS of oil and back it off every few turns to clear the threads. I have cut threads on a out of round tube before. I was surprised that I was able to do it with good results.


----------



## Djshakes (May 12, 2015)

I may not have used enough oil and didn't back it off enough.  It is hard seeing as how I don't have three hands.  I would drop some 3-1 oil on and then spin it a few times and put more on.  Maybe I should back it off after every four turns. I didn't back off until the end.


----------



## bricycle (May 12, 2015)

I use threading fluid, but mine is highly toxic, use in well ventilated area.
Friction of course causes heat which causes the fork tube to expand, making cutting harder. Take breaks often....


----------



## STRADALITE (May 12, 2015)

After I destroyed the threads on two sets of forks I learned. I'll do a full turn then back it out about a half turn. It takes me longer but it's better than the alternative.


----------



## bricycle (May 12, 2015)

STRADALITE said:


> After I destroyed the threads on two sets of forks I learned. I'll do a full turn then back it out about a half turn. It takes me longer but it's better than the alternative.




...we HOPE everyone knows to back it off (so material can empty into valleys of tool)


----------



## rustjunkie (May 12, 2015)

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threading-fork-steering-columns-fts-1-use

[video=youtube;9lI9-wyrubE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lI9-wyrubE[/video]


----------



## Djshakes (May 12, 2015)

My little set screw is stripped as well so I can't expand the die.


----------



## fordmike65 (May 12, 2015)

Djshakes said:


> My little set screw is stripped as well so I can't expand the die.




Bingo


----------



## bricycle (May 12, 2015)

If one expands the die too much, how is the bearing race gonna thread on???


----------



## rustjunkie (May 12, 2015)

bricycle said:


> If one expands the die too much, how is the bearing race gonna thread on???




http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threading-fork-steering-columns-fts-1-use


----------



## bricycle (May 12, 2015)

Ahhh, multiple passes!


----------



## vincev (May 12, 2015)

I always make 2 turns and back off half a turn to break of the chip.Use thread cutting oil


----------



## 37fleetwood (May 12, 2015)

just wanted to add a couple things. the videos Scott posted are fabulous, but I can't emphasise enough use actual cutting oil, not motor oil or wd40.
the other thing is, these methods shown in the videos apply to all thread cutting, whether it's cleaning out buggered pedal threads or cleaning the threads on an axle.
it also should be noted there are several types of taps and dies, there are special ones for cleaning and straightening threads, they're designed not to cut but only straighten threads. you can't cut with them, but they work great for fixing buggered threads since they won't cut into the metal. then there are Bottoming taps which have threads all the way down so you can get threads all the way to the bottom of a hole. they're harder to start as they don't have the tapered end. use the tool that's correct for the job. most of these tools are not that expensive, get the ones you'll need.
when adjusting the die on the steer tube, thread it onto the good threaded area then adjust the set screw until it's snug. if it's loose it won't cut deep enough and if it's too tight you'll cut too deep and the threads will strip easily.


----------



## the tinker (May 12, 2015)

Many years ago [40 +] I had a set of dies that were "two" piece. I used them alot but sometimes they did exactly what yours did. they would "spread" just a tad and not work as they should. The die I have now is a one piece die. I was not aware that the two piece dies were even made anymore. If your die is the two piece type that may be the problem.  I also use cutting oil. After I am done I take the top bearing thing and thread it on to where the top is even to where I want to cut it off. then using the top edge as a cutting guide. I hacksaw it off nice and even. then unscrew it off and it clears the threads off nicely. take a flat fine mill file and take the"edge" off the start of the threads so it isnt so sharp. then cut the keyway with a dremel grinder.


----------



## Jeff54 (May 12, 2015)

Personally I'll use just any oil if I'm tapping a pipe. Although that's cause I striped one or two as a kid.. So, moreover me learned da hard way long, long ago, before the hills got dusty, ya donna wanna be forcing tools to work. They're designed to make things easy but ya need to let em do the cutting fitting etc, don't force a tool to work, if it gets tight back it off and try, try again. Man, if I made just one turn and had that poor cutting I'd been regrouping me troops, taking a break till another ingenious idea comes up. .  and thanks to search engines these days, if me made a single turn and was bad I'd be asking google before preceding .. 

Me calls it the mind against metal war.. Mind created metal hence mind against metal always wins. while brute against metal get cuts, bruises, bends, nicks  metal scrap and one P.O-ed head. .


----------

