# Looking into getting a whizzer.



## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

As the title states, I am looking into getting whizzer, what do I need to know before I start looking?
What should I look out for, how easy is it to work on these engines, and what should I expect to pay for one?
I'm fairly decent with motors, so it wouldn't have to run.


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## bricycle (Feb 20, 2012)

If you got some bread, now is definately the time to buy. Before 2008 market demise, run of the mill H & J Whizzers were going for almost $3000.00. Now The good stuff, Sportsmans (20"er's), and real 24" Ambassador Wz's are going for about that. Regular 40's-'50's Whiz's are going for $1000.00 to $1500.00 on a good day. Too bad you're not by Chicago, I'd let my 24" turn-key baby go for $1250.00.  bri.


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## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

There weren't any 26" ones then?


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## militarymonark (Feb 20, 2012)

there are 26 in, I would stay away from the newer ones unless you know for sure they've had the valve fix jobs. They are easy to work on, just have to play with it for a little bit. Do you want a kit or something ready to go? Bricyle's whizzer for 1250 is a pretty good deal and prob one the cheapest prices you'll see around, I've purchased two kits off him and Im very happy. You can always swap over components to a 26in if you really wanted. Its not hard. If you want something to rebuild thats complete you will still see prices go over 900+.


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## militarymonark (Feb 20, 2012)

here are some CL ads and as you'll see Bricycle's is the least expensive
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/2851957006.html
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/2853179781.html
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/2803386916.html
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/2838336344.html
http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/mcy/2845734225.html
http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/mcy/2846403454.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/2784238316.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/2855283047.html
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/atq/2860679496.html
http://bham.craigslist.org/mcy/2849685406.html
http://orlando.craigslist.org/clt/2835780005.html


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## militarymonark (Feb 20, 2012)

this one is prob your best deal on CL http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/atq/2860679496.html


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## bricycle (Feb 20, 2012)

militarymonark said:


> this one is prob your best deal on CL http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/atq/2860679496.html




I agree, either this, or the Lake Mary Fl. for 2350. Has gen, bi-matic(easily 6-700 val), lights, forebrake, speedo...it's loaded!


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## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

Thanks for the links, though something more... local would be nice.
Oh well though.





bricycle said:


> If you got some bread, now is definately the time to buy. Before 2008 market demise, run of the mill H & J Whizzers were going for almost $3000.00. Now The good stuff, Sportsmans (20"er's), and real 24" Ambassador Wz's are going for about that. Regular 40's-'50's Whiz's are going for $1000.00 to $1500.00 on a good day. Too bad you're not by Chicago, I'd let my 24" turn-key baby go for $1250.00.  bri.



What year is your's bricycle?
I might be interested when I have some cash again.


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## bricycle (Feb 20, 2012)

Coaster Brake said:


> Thanks for the links, though something more... local would be nice.
> Oh well though.
> 
> 
> ...




The bike is actually about a 1964? 24" Wesrern flyer that looks like a cantilever Schwinn. Mill is the 46-7 H with factory dual exhaust manifold(not repo). I "stuffed" it in the tiny frame area so it would look more like a motorcycle than a moped. Harley style intake cover is really a chrome plated bronze water intake scoup from an old boat. upper rear fender mount "stretched" to allow some clearance for the rear belt. Bottom motor mount flipped for clearance. Front motor mount custom as no room for stock. Schwinn S-2 cream rims and skip tooth drive components. original Goodyear G-3 whitewall and typhoon rear. Skull and crossbones taillight cover~ light comes through his eyes. Stock front fender and chainguard. Peeing "Whizzer boy" mascot. 1962 license, Skull on stem and tank. A wicked rat-rod called: Whiztern Flyver...


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## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

bricycle said:


> The bike is actually about a 1964? 24" Wesrern flyer that looks like a cantilever Schwinn. Mill is the 46-7 H with factory dual exhaust manifold(not repo). I "stuffed" it in the tiny frame area so it would look more like a motorcycle than a moped. Harley style intake cover is really a chrome plated bronze water intake scoup from an old boat. upper rear fender mount "stretched" to allow some clearance for the rear belt. Bottom motor mount flipped for clearance. Front motor mount custom as no room for stock. Schwinn S-2 cream rims and skip tooth drive components. original Goodyear G-3 whitewall and typhoon rear. Skull and crossbones taillight cover~ light comes through his eyes. Stock front fender and chainguard. Peeing "Whizzer boy" mascot. 1962 license, Skull on stem and tank. A wicked rat-rod called: Whiztern Flyver...




Military monark mentioned he bought some "kits" from you, do you have anything along those lines?
I am confident I could install one.
I just like the whizzer look over the others out there.


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## militarymonark (Feb 20, 2012)

even if you purchased the bike from Bricycle at 1250 and he just sent it as a kit, for a turn key kit thats a decent price. Also you can mount it to pretty much any 26 inch bike. The only thing that you may have to build would be a set of heavy duty wheels with the proper brakes.


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## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

militarymonark said:


> even if you purchased the bike from Bricycle at 1250 and he just sent it as a kit, for a turn key kit thats a decent price. Also you can mount it to pretty much any 26 inch bike. The only thing that you may have to build would be a set of heavy duty wheels with the proper brakes.




I see that is a good deal, it's just that it sounded like he had a fair amount of that kinda stuff, and I would rather install a kit on a bike I found locally, than going through the hassle of shipping a small motorcycle lol.


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## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/bik/2801308544.html
So there is a repop on my local CL, what is this valve issue of which you speak, and is this worth looking into?


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## militarymonark (Feb 20, 2012)

From what I've read on other motorized bike forums and what Quinten Gunther has mentioned is that the valves were made of soft metal and eventually (sooner than later) the engines start to have seating issues and some others that I can't remember, basically it boils down to replacing the valves with a set from Quinten Gunther (on motoredbikes and motorbicycling.com) and possibly a few other minor fabrications. If you end up doing that much work you mind as well add some performance to it. This is why i push going with the original. Yes you may have to put some bearings or gaskets and adjust the valves in there but at least you can keep the parts original. I've had one of the new kits and well it just didn't work well with any of my bikes. The belts didn't fit right and it was just a little too big. I ended up with an original and it works out 10x better. If you are looking at a new one, ask if they valves have been replaced. If they haven't beware of the work involved. But I have heard once all the work has been done they run like champs. So its a matter of how much work do you want to do. I know I wanted to ride right away and enjoy my whizzer, I didn't get that with the new kit. Just my 2 cents.


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## Coaster Brake (Feb 20, 2012)

militarymonark said:


> From what I've read on other motorized bike forums and what Quinten Gunther has mentioned is that the valves were made of soft metal and eventually (sooner than later) the engines start to have seating issues and some others that I can't remember, basically it boils down to replacing the valves with a set from Quinten Gunther (on motoredbikes and motorbicycling.com) and possibly a few other minor fabrications. If you end up doing that much work you mind as well add some performance to it. This is why i push going with the original. Yes you may have to put some bearings or gaskets and adjust the valves in there but at least you can keep the parts original. I've had one of the new kits and well it just didn't work well with any of my bikes. The belts didn't fit right and it was just a little too big. I ended up with an original and it works out 10x better. If you are looking at a new one, ask if they valves have been replaced. If they haven't beware of the work involved. But I have heard once all the work has been done they run like champs. So its a matter of how much work do you want to do. I know I wanted to ride right away and enjoy my whizzer, I didn't get that with the new kit. Just my 2 cents.




Alright, that's what I needed to know,
I'll keep a look out for one locally, and if I don't have any luck I'll hit up bricycle if his is still available.


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