# 1915 Mead Crusader “The Road to Rideable”



## Drosentreter (Sep 4, 2022)

Well, I am finally getting somewhere on this bike, and I’ll give a short introduction as to how I got it, where I’m at now, and where I’m headed. 

It started with finding the bikes at a local historical society that I’ve been roaming since I was born, but with no knowledge these existed in the attic of one of the barns, but alas someone drug them out and I got to see them after they decided to reconsider their price upon further research. They had them appraised by a guy in Cali that the American Pickers turned them onto, and he was terribly unrealistic, and didn’t even know what the Western Wheel Works bike was. He instead tried to ID it as a Mead girls bike knowing full and well that the person calling him wouldn’t know the difference. I finally convinced the historical society that the appraiser didn’t know what the Western Wheel Works bike was by showing them an original advertisement provided by a helpful member here on the cabe.

After weeks of waiting they finally had a discussion about an offer I had made for nearly all I could afford on the two of them, and determined they would like more and that I can’t sell the bicycles out of my collection for profit. Given this condition and the higher price I was hesitant, but ultimately decided I would regret passing them up. So here I am with an 1892/1893 Western Wheel Works Boys Junior, and a 1915ish Mead Crusader.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 4, 2022)

Sense the Western Wheel Works is missing so much it got put on the back burner, and my main priority is getting the Crusader up and going. I can’t bring myself to buy Robert Deans for these rims given the price, and loss of the original tires, but I know I can’t ride these tires. The rims are in very good shape, but I know I don’t want to mess with new washers/retruing and regluing the tires either so Robert Deans are out of the question. Next I had to decide what I was doing about rims and hubs. I had a set of 27” 10 speed Schwinn rims with terrible chrome that I felt I could sandblast, paint, respoke and change hubs. Well I only had 2 options available to me for skippy hubs. Either I could tear down the original 28” wood wheels and lace the hubs into my 27” rims, which I decided against as I am saving the rims, tires, and hubs for display, or I could use the 10 speed front hub, and a rear hub out of a 1946 Schwinn girls bike. Well I decided against the Schwinn rear hub too because the rim and hub were both mint and original to eachother. So I put out a plea for a cheap skippy rear hub and @MrMonark13 came through with a New Departure off of a much newer bike(40s I think) and offered it to me for a price I couldn’t refuse… the cost of shipping!!! Thanks MrMonark! So now I’ve been tearing into it… 

I have since removed the wheelset, crankset, and lone pedal. I intend on finding time to soften the single tubes and mold them back to shape for display(any tips?). Number one priority is getting my “new” wheelset ready. With me being as gung-ho about this project as I am, I am amazed I remembered to take “as found” pictures before I began tearing it apart. But me being me I forgot to snap some pics of the wheelset when I started. I wanted a faux wood wheelset that I could buy tires for easily, cheaply, and would look real from 15 feet. I’ve heard, and seen it done with some different methods, so I decided to give it a try. The chrome was so bad I tossed the wheelset in my blast cabinet and got them blasted to take all of the loose chrome off and heavily scuff the rest. Half of the spokes broke off even after some serious soaking in PB Blaster. Ohh well I saved the spoke nipples that I could for reuse/replacement on another project for another day. I then began the process of faux woodwork. I started with some red primer because it’s what I had on hand, and it should hide well under the paint color. I then sprayed the wheels with some tan satin paint to create a base color for the wood. After that dries I will get a coarse bristle chip brush and some darkish wood stain and begin to attempt realistic wood grain. Once I am done with the wood grain I will let the stain dry, and I will come back with some Satin/Semi Gloss clear and cover it all.(any tips on this whole process?) If it works it works, if it doesn’t it doesn't, no biggie, I’ll just paint them a close brown if it doesnt. I then decided that the tires just wouldn’t do in black or white, as the originals were white with red tread. So here I am considering purchasing red tires, and white wall tire paint to paint the sidewalls with(anyone have experience with this stuff? Does it work?). Alas that will be the end of the abnormal repair/servicing work… but wait there’s more! Someone at some point stripped out/broke/lost the rear chain tensioners, so if someone has a set on the cheap I’m interested. The worst part is that they replaced the tensioners with really heavy oversized wood screws😭. So I got them removed, and made myself some tensioners out of 1/4,20 bolts. I plan on cutting down the bolt heads into a square sometime down the road but the hex head is fine for now. Now, those should be it for the repairs(I hope).


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## Drosentreter (Sep 4, 2022)

Now, I have a few questions. How in the hell does this headset come apart!?! I am having the darndest time, and I may just be stupid, but I want someone to tell me🤣. Seriously though I don’t want to break anything so any help is appreciated.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 4, 2022)

Last thing for today. Pedals… I need a match, or a matching set. Will consider either. I am on a modest budget, so if you have a similar set for cheap I may just take you up on it just to have some pedals. Must be 1/2”. In addition to this, I need a pair for the meanwhile to run, so anyone with a cheap set of rat trap pedals please message me. Thank you.


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## dasberger (Sep 4, 2022)

Pedal...  @Rustngrease @New Mexico Brant @Jesse McCauley


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## Archie Sturmer (Sep 5, 2022)

The painted rim looks nice; is it 27”/630mm, and what brand or shade of tan is it called?

I believe that the headset has a binder clamp like many seat posts, not sure if the stem also has a tightening wedge, from the outside looks like those that do (but different).  Also, hardware looks to require a spanner wrench for fastening the bearing parts. 

Have you determined the manufacturer yet?
I believe that Davis may have built some Mead diamond frames in the teens; but maybe this example could be earlier?


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

Archie Sturmer said:


> The painted rim looks nice; is it 27”/630mm, and what brand or shade of tan is it called?
> 
> I believe that the headset has a binder clamp like many seat posts, not sure if the stem also has a tightening wedge, (but from the outside looks like those that do).
> 
> ...




The wheelset is a Schwinn Wheelset😬😂. 27” off of a 1975 Continental. The color is Rustoleum Satin Nutmeg. It’s what I had on hand and it was close enough for a base color. 

Thanks for the help on the headset, I’m still not sure exactly how it comes apart but I’ll play with it a bit. 

I have not determined the manufacturer yet, Davis is very well possible though.


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## GTs58 (Sep 5, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> Last thing for today. Pedals… I need a match, or a matching set. Will consider either. I am on a modest budget, so if you have a similar set for cheap I may just take you up on it just to have some pedals. Must be 1/2”. In addition to this, I need a pair for the meanwhile to run, so anyone with a cheap set of rat trap pedals please message me. Thank you.
> 
> View attachment 1691007
> 
> ...





Here's your pedals if you can steal them from goldslinger. Verify axle size. 









						Junk store pedals | Antique Bicycles Pre-1933
					

Any idea what these are? I was picking a junk store and he had these in his display case way in the back under a pile of of glass door knobs. I am a 30s and 40s bike guy . I couldn’t beat the price so I grabbed them.




					thecabe.com


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> Here's your pedals if you can steal them from goldslinger. Verify axle size.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Close but no cigar. I figured if he wanted to get rid of them for a decent price I would be interested but they still have some differences in the hole patterns. Thanks for the lead though!


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

Update, The wheels have another coat of paint, and I got the headtube apart thanks to @piercer_99 but now I have another question… the parts on the head tube… are they all original? This is the way they came off of the head tube, but I am wondering if the second from left(second from bottom also) is correct for this bike. I don’t think it is for the simple fact that it doesn’t fit the threads and that it is built like a race even though the ball bearings sit in the next race down… is there a spacer that is supposed to be here? Or what…

One more thing. Where can I buy ball bearings for this?


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## Bazil4696 (Sep 5, 2022)

You can order ball bearings from McMaster-Carr.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

Bazil4696 said:


> You can order ball bearings from McMaster-Carr.



Thanks for the help!!!


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## piercer_99 (Sep 5, 2022)

you can get ball bearings through ebay and amazon as well.

for example



			https://smile.amazon.com/Breezliy-Piece-Assorted-Bicycle-Bearing/dp/B0953PZMS6


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

piercer_99 said:


> you can get ball bearings through ebay and amazon as well.
> 
> for example
> 
> ...



Thanks @piercer_99 !


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## Archie Sturmer (Sep 5, 2022)

I was also searching Amazon just the other day, seemed like they had *every* *size* to the tenth of a millimeter; (e.g., 4.7, 4.8mm), and I was not sure which one was a nominal 3/16”.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/s...number-of-balls-per-race-used-toc-era.212182/

The fork, headset, and stem, kind of all just look earlier than 1915, for a Mead Crusader?


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## piercer_99 (Sep 5, 2022)

The Mead headset uses 5/32" ball bearings, 17 at each end.

According to my bearing chart.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

Archie Sturmer said:


> I was also searching Amazon just the other day, seemed like they had *every* *size* to the tenth of a millimeter; (e.g., 4.7, 4.8mm), and I was not sure which one was a nominal 3/16”.
> https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/s...number-of-balls-per-race-used-toc-era.212182/
> 
> The fork, headset, and stem, kind of all just look earlier than 1915, for a Mead Crusader?



I’m not sure. 1915 is just an estimate that me and another Caber came up with. I highly doubt that the headset and fork was changed…


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## Archie Sturmer (Sep 5, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> I’m not sure. 1915 is just an estimate that me and another Caber came up with. I highly doubt that the headset and fork was changed…



When I see two sets of top races, I would wonder why; maybe just missing a hex nut (make-do substitute), or maybe the cap would not tighten all of the way?
Any serial numbers stamped on the bottom bracket crank hanger?


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## Drosentreter (Sep 5, 2022)

Archie Sturmer said:


> When I see two sets of top races, I would wonder why; maybe just missing a hex nut (make-do substitute), or maybe the cap would not tighten all of the way?
> Any serial numbers stamped on the bottom bracket crank hanger?



The threads on the second(I believe incorrect) race doesn’t fit the fork. It also was too thick, not allowing the cap to tighten down all the way and pinch the stem as it is supposed to do. 

The serial number is hand stamped but well done and clear. 700589


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## Archie Sturmer (Sep 6, 2022)

Serial number 700,589 is close to Lee Miller’s Mead Crusader (693,365), and Jose Huerta’s Mead Crusader (911,002).
The later was thought by some to be A&S-built; (forks look different though).

Almost forgot, I saw a 1912-14 New York Sporting Goods catalog that showed some old pedals with 3 triangles, and 4 sets of three teeth identified as “*Expert*” pedals.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 6, 2022)

Archie Sturmer said:


> Serial number 700,589 is close to Lee Miller’s Mead Crusader (693,365), and Jose Huerta’s Mead Crusader (911,002).
> The later was thought by some to be A&S-built; forks look different though.



Thanks for the help. So what year does that make it then?


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## Drosentreter (Sep 7, 2022)

A BIG Thank you to @MrMonark13 for the rear hub. It arrived today, and I got started on the faux wood grain today! Looking killer so far, hopefully the rest goes as planned and I can get these laced ASAP!


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## MrMonark13 (Sep 8, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> A BIG Thank you to @MrMonark13 for the rear hub. It arrived today, and I got started on the faux wood grain today! Looking killer so far, hopefully the rest goes as planned and I can get these laced ASAP!
> 
> View attachment 1692432
> 
> ...



You’re welcome! I really like how those rims are turning out. I may try your wood graining technique on a set of 700c’s that I’m building.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 8, 2022)

MrMonark13 said:


> You’re welcome! I really like how those rims are turning out. I may try your wood graining technique on a set of 700c’s that I’m building.



It looks better in person, hopefully it will be enough to fool someone from around 10 feet.


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## MrMonark13 (Sep 8, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> It looks better in person, hopefully it will be enough to fool someone from around 10 feet.



I think it will. I’m glad to be a part of getting this thing back on the road!


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## Drosentreter (Sep 8, 2022)

Another question. Does anyone have a 28” drop stand for sale? If not does someone have a bolt on 27”/28” kickstand?


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## Piglette4 (Sep 10, 2022)

Ball bearings from https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0953PZMS6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


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## Drosentreter (Sep 10, 2022)

One more thing…
Where do you guys buy your spokes, or does someone have some spokes that are like 1/4-1/2” longer…
Or maybe just some 28” spokes?


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## Archie Sturmer (Sep 11, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> One more thing…
> Where do you guys buy your spokes, or does someone have some spokes that are like 1/4-1/2” longer…
> Or maybe just some 28” spokes?



I buy spokes by the box (of 100?) on eBay.  I look for the ads (at lowest price plus shipping) that specifically state that the spoke nipples are *included*; (not just pictured). I search by the length in metric millimeters; [I use my own spoke length calculator in Microsoft Excel].
Best to know the actual length (fixed number) that one thinks that one might need.

Some day I might even pay the extra ~$10 and get the double-butted type?


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## Drosentreter (Sep 11, 2022)

Archie Sturmer said:


> I buy spokes by the box (of 100?) on eBay.  I look for the ads (at lowest price plus shipping) that specifically state that the spoke nipples are *included*; (not just pictured). I search by the length in metric millimeters; [I use my own spoke length calculator in Microsoft Excel].
> Best to know the actual length (fixed number) that one thinks that one might need.
> 
> Some day I might even pay the extra ~$10 and get the double-butted type?



Thank you! This is a great help! The double butted spokes are stronger? And maybe you could assist me with your excel sheet? I really have no idea what length I need other then that I know the ones I have are flat out too short.


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## Archie Sturmer (Sep 11, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> Thank you! This is a great help! The double butted spokes are stronger? And maybe you could assist me with your excel sheet? I really have no idea what length I need other then that I know the ones I have are flat out too short.



There are a few threads about spoke length calculation; and most refer to online spoke calculation tools.

Sometimes the online tools though, would ask for a selection of make/model of hub or rim, from a pull-down menu; or otherwise it seemed that my computer could not make the “go” button work(?).

The calculation is based on the dimensions of the rim and hub, (including number of holes), and the pattern of how many spokes cross another, (e.g., 3 or 4).  It uses the law of cosines (a law) and Pythagoras’ theorem (just a theory, that I am still not too sure about).

I did my own calculation for a 28” rim and hub and compared what was more common online (thinking maybe every one else’s calculation could be better than mine), and for the 28” rims purchased 292mm spokes.  Probably could have gone with 291 or 292; not sure about 630mm/27” rims though.

Maybe the double-butted spokes that are skinnier in the middle might be lighter weight and cause less air drag?


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