# 1941 Colson, Fooling Around With...



## dougfisk (Oct 28, 2013)

Immediately after removing everything that was not correct or original... not much left...


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## dougfisk (Oct 28, 2013)

First mockups...


with tank







without tank


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## dougfisk (Oct 28, 2013)

Some elements getting finished:

Wheels are built from chrome drop center rims, stainless Sapim Race spokes, gold nipples, Komet rear hub, Union front hub.











Komet rear hub (German built Fichtel & Sachs) because they are among the very best, meaning lowest drag.







Union (german) front hub because my red 47 higgins uses one and is the smoothest fastest yet.







Drivetrain dialed in - 1/2 inch drive because it is smoother, quieter and faster (thanks to npence for chainwheel).  Murray crankarm because it is longer than the Colson.    BMX grade chain for gravitas.  Cool "Schwinn Approved" pedals, very nice quality. My standard 52 / 18 gearing.







Curious stem that looks a lot like the common Wald knuckle but is slightly different with a tapered top.  Schwinn midweight headset is high quality.











The rumpled headbage had to go... I need to do better.


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## Boris (Oct 28, 2013)

I think that your bike would look better without that rack. Gimme!


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## dougfisk (Oct 28, 2013)

Dave Marko said:


> I think that your bike would look better without that rack. Gimme!




I thought you had so many you didn't know what to do with them all...


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## Gary Mc (Oct 28, 2013)

Looking good Doug!!!!!!!!  Gonna be another SWEET rider. You are making me want to build a new stripped down Rider bad.


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Oct 28, 2013)

Gary Mc said:


> Looking good Doug!!!!!!!!  Gonna be another SWEET rider. You are making me want to build a new stripped down Rider bad.




I second that.   Nice ride!


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## dougfisk (Nov 17, 2013)

*update*

Tinkered a lttle today...  I had ridden about 20 miles and the bike was not tracking well.  I narrowed the problem down to the fork.  I had trued the fork previously, but at its relaxed state spread out width.  When clamped down to actual hub width it was no longer holding true.  The root problem is the hole-but-no-slot fork used by Colson in the good old days.  Seventy three years of yanking the fork open to remove or replace the wheel had taken a toll.  I decided to tighten up the relaxed fork spacing to actual hub width and re-true the fork at working width...  And in addition I would slot the right side of the fork which I hope will reduce future yanking considerably.  

Before





After





I could tell while re-assembling that the problem was solved.  The wheel lined up perfectly with the headtube.  The proof of the pudding is in the tasting - the test ride checked out, the bike tracks straight and stable and passes the no-hands test.   Stay tuned for more!


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## dougfisk (Feb 2, 2014)

*progress report*

The frame had an amateur repaint with chips scrapes, etc... nothing vintage to salvage here.  So I channeled my inner 10 year old and painted the chainguard to match and added the bright apple green trim in a sort-of-original style.  No measuring, not much sanding, no eyeglasses even :eek:, intentionally crude...  

The spot weld on the chainguard bracket broke while I was masking off the green region... 2 steps forward, 1 step backward.


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## ThegoodThebad&Therusty (Feb 2, 2014)

*So I channeled my inner 10 year old*

You _WHAT_ !!! :eek:

I'll have you know that's a violation of the law in the peoples republic of Californistan Mr fisk ...

pap
.


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## dougfisk (Feb 2, 2014)

ThegoodThebad&Therusty said:


> You _WHAT_ !!! :eek:
> 
> I'll have you know that's a violation of the law in the peoples republic of Californistan Mr fisk ...
> 
> ...




That's why I live in Arizona.


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## RJWess (Feb 2, 2014)

dougfisk said:


> Tinkered a lttle today...  I had ridden about 20 miles and the bike was not tracking well.  I narrowed the problem down to the fork.  I had trued the fork previously, but at its relaxed state spread out width.  When clamped down to actual hub width it was no longer holding true.  The root problem is the hole-but-no-slot fork used by Colson in the good old days.  Seventy three years of yanking the fork open to remove or replace the wheel had taken a toll.  I decided to tighten up the relaxed fork spacing to actual hub width and re-true the fork at working width...  And in addition I would slot the right side of the fork which I hope will reduce future yanking considerably.
> 
> Before
> 
> ...




I have two bikes that do not have the a dropout on the front fork. I have thought of doing this same thing, cutting out a opening. I hate pulling on these forks in fear of one day that it would snap. What did you use to cut your opening.


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## dougfisk (Feb 2, 2014)

RJWess said:


> I have two bikes that do not have the a dropout on the front fork. I have thought of doing this same thing, cutting out a opening. I hate pulling on these forks in fear of one day that it would snap. What did you use to cut your opening.




Thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder.  Wear goggles and don't cock/bind the wheel... they break very easily.   

Opening one makes the struggle managable, opening two would eliminate it...


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