# 1955 Rudge



## yosysfire (May 31, 2021)

Hello all.  I've been a lurker to the site for sometime and thanks for the wealth of info from everyone.  I'm not new to bikes but I am new to older/vintage bicycles. 
This is a 1955 Rudge I recently acquired.   From what I can see it's original,  aside from the front tube which was a Schrader valve.  I think the shifting needs a little adjusted and/or oil added but other than that she rides smooth.  
Does anyone recommend a place to purchase tires/tubes?  

Thanks everyone!
Adam


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## PatrickZ (May 31, 2021)

Beautiful bike!  The tires appear to be new(ish) Kendas, and they are perhaps the most commonly available replacement tires available now for 26 X 1-3/8 (ISO 590) size.  I would leave them as is for awhile - or at least until you have your first flat.  I see you have an original TCW hub. I have one bike with one, but have never opened it up (SirMike on here would be the expert).  Regarding the hub, I would just add some oil and make sure the indicator spindle is adjusted correctly; there are a couple of ways to do this, but I generally follow the way described on the Sheldon Brown site: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_tech.html Good luck!


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## juvela (May 31, 2021)

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hello yosysfire & welcome to the forum    

Whoa!

Fabulous condition she's in; thanks so much for posting.

Always a treat to encounter The Hand of Ulster.


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## yosysfire (May 31, 2021)

PatrickZ said:


> Beautiful bike!  The tires appear to be new(ish) Kendas, and they are perhaps the most commonly available replacement tires available now for 26 X 1-3/8 (ISO 590) size.  I would leave them as is for awhile - or at least until you have your first flat.  I see you have an original TCW hub. I have one bike with one, but have never opened it up (SirMike on here would be the expert).  Regarding the hub, I would just add some oil and make sure the indicator spindle is adjusted correctly; there are a couple of ways to do this, but I generally follow the way described on the Sheldon Brown site: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_tech.html Good luck!



Thanks.  The tires and tubes I replaced today.  The back blew out a couple hours after installed the new(ish) tires.  The rear looked like it had some damage to the tire wall but was the only one I had so I went for it.  I'd like to purchase a couple new tubes and tires to get back on the road.  Should look for another set of Kendas?  

Thanks!


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## GTs58 (May 31, 2021)

I prefer CST's over Kenda but you have more choices than what's out there for Schwinn's rims. Many bikes shops in certain areas are out of stock with most any tires these days so it may be a chore locating your choice. 

Here's some examples https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/590.html


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## dnc1 (Jun 1, 2021)

juvela said:


> -----
> 
> hello yosysfire & welcome to the forum
> 
> ...




The hand is nothing to do with Ulster @juvela. 
It was originally the motif used by the 'Whitworth' company before they joined up with 'Rudge', to become 'Rudge-Whitworth'.

There is no association between any of these companies/founding families and Northern Ireland. There is a common misconception that the symbol was adopted because Rudge (motorcycles) had won the famous 'Ulster GP' race., and that Dan Rudge could trace his family history back to Ireland. 

However, the periodical "Cycling" records in its 8th. August, 1891 edition, that trademark number 156827 was granted to Mr. Charles Henry Pugh of the Whitworth Works, Birmingham for use on " bicycles,  tricycles and other velocipedes and parts of the same".  Pugh is described as a screw and velocipede manufacturer, and he applied for the trademark of a raised hand on the background of a bicycle wheel.
(Information supplied by the Stratford-Rudge Co.).

The open hand was quite an ancient symbol used by businesses as a sign of honesty.

That Rudge is in fantastic condition, I  prefer the 'red' versions personally.  Or is yours "Chestnut Brown", one of the other options?
Hard to tell from your images on my phone.
So much nicer than the more common black examples!


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## juvela (Jun 1, 2021)

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thanks so much for this explanation!    


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## HARPO (Jun 1, 2021)

I have your bike's sister... 









						1955 Rudge with Dynohub | International Bicycles
					

I bought this bike a few years back, and I think I posted it as I got it home. I was moving some bikes around today and realized I never showed the "after" condition, so I took a few quick shots and here they are...




					thecabe.com


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## slowride (Jun 2, 2021)

Use this oil in hub https://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/
Buy an industrial syringe and inject one teaspoon to start and half that every fortnight.
Do not use the standard 3 in 1 oil or 2 cycle oil or 4 cycle oil. Alternatively electric motor or sewing machine oil.


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## gkeep (Jun 2, 2021)

That is in incredible condition, congratulations! I've been using the above 3inone 20 wt oil in 3 Sturmey Archer AW hubs and my New Departure model A on a teens bike. It works great in these hubs.

Enjoy that fine machine!


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## rollfaster (Jun 3, 2021)

Very nice example! Here is a 57 i cleaned up/rebuilt for a good friend a few years ago.


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## slowride (Jun 3, 2021)

Additional info.  Do you know if  bearings have been serviced? If not it’s best to remove , clean , and repack all bearings. Info on TCW adjustment.
*very important- the front wheel only goes in one way- with the adjustable cup end of hub on non-drive side. See diagram.  If you reverse installation you will ruin the hub.*


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## jimbo53 (Jun 3, 2021)

Beautiful bike! I’ve been looking for a Rudge for years and finally found this 1965 Rudge Sports last year with a 23” frame and stainless Dunlop rims. Had to drive 7 hrs round trip, but well worth the money and time.


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## jimbo53 (Jun 3, 2021)

slowride said:


> Additional info.  Do you know if  bearings have been serviced? If not it’s best to remove , clean , and repack all bearings. Info on TCW adjustment.
> 
> View attachment 1423402
> 
> ...



Thanks for the servicing info on the TCW hub. I have an early 60’s Phillips DL-1 with 28” wheels and front rod brake but a TCW coaster 3 speed hub. Appears to be all original but TCW hub and rod brakes are a new one for me!


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 4, 2021)

The TCW hub is a series of compromises. It is basically a coaster brake grafted onto a modified AW drive.  Some parts interchange with the AW, but many do not. It's not exactly an AW, and it's not exactly just a plain coaster brake, but a combination of the two. A bicycle with a TCW hub should always have some other form of brake, preferably a good, front wheel handbrake.

If you have an unserviced TCW hub, you'll want to open up the coaster brake and clean and re-grease with a quality grease. It need not be expensive bicycle shop grease, but it should be something better than the old, thick axle grease that drags. For light duty use, I'd use something like Lucas green grease (hardware stores have it), or Lucas red high temp grease if you're really going to be heating up the brake. I don't see just oiling the hub as an option here because the coaster brake side of the house really needs a decent quality grease. The brake side bearings should get a good coat of something like the Lucas green grease as well. Marine grease is also an option if you are going to be riding through standing water, but that's generally not a great idea.

The transmission side of things is a little bit like an AW hub - grease the outer bearings with something like Lucas green or another quality grease (again, not the old, gooey axle grease that drags). The innards get a coat of light or medium oil - 20 or 30 weight is fine. Adjust the drive-side cone to correct tension, then set up the coaster brake side cone for play.

When using, be careful not to slam the shifter down into high gear while also braking or transitioning to braking at the pedals. The reason for this is that the two halves of the hub are held in place by a single, fragile E-shaped clip that sits in a groove in the axle. If that E-clip is forced out of the groove, the hub will cease functioning correctly and you may fall into neutral, preventing the hub from driving and preventing it from braking.

One other thing to remember is that by modern standards, the TCW's brake ring/shoe is undersized, so braking power is somewhat reduced. The braking mechanism is also applied AFTER gear reduction/increase through the transmission, so you will have somewhat reduced braking power in high gear. You will have NO braking power in neutral between normal and high.

The TCW version with small, curved arm and the traditional writing on the arm is the older version of the hub.


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## JoNy (Aug 31, 2021)

Lovely!


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## Schwinny (Sep 6, 2021)

SirMike1983 said:


> The TCW hub is a series of compromises. It is basically a coaster brake grafted onto a modified AW drive.  Some parts interchange with the AW, but many do not. It's not exactly an AW, and it's not exactly just a plain coaster brake, but a combination of the two. A bicycle with a TCW hub should always have some other form of brake, preferably a good, front wheel handbrake.
> 
> If you have an unserviced TCW hub, you'll want to open up the coaster brake and clean and re-grease with a quality grease. It need not be expensive bicycle shop grease, but it should be something better than the old, thick axle grease that drags. For light duty use, I'd use something like Lucas green grease (hardware stores have it), or Lucas red high temp grease if you're really going to be heating up the brake. I don't see just oiling the hub as an option here because the coaster brake side of the house really needs a decent quality grease. The brake side bearings should get a good coat of something like the Lucas green grease as well. Marine grease is also an option if you are going to be riding through standing water, but that's generally not a great idea.
> 
> ...



Is this one of the early TCW arms you mentioned? It was loose in a box of parts I bought many years ago.
The 67' TCWIII I have on my custom racer hasn't missed a beat but I have bought a couple bikes with TCW 3spd coasters that freewheeled. I just replaced them. I've taken a lot of these 3spd hubs apart to grease and clean but never had to fix one. They are so plentiful that I just go down to the salvage yard and get another for $10
I also found by trial and error that hi-temp grease on the outboard bearings keeps more oil in the hub (stickier with less flow as it heats). Since there are no seals there, its the grease that keeps the small amount of oil in the hub. It only needs an ounce or two. Too much oil and it washes the grease away, moves past the outboard bearings and drips on the floor and on the rim.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Sep 6, 2021)

that's got to be the same company that made the Sears "JC Higgin's" I keep seeing on local craigslist.  there are actually two of them.


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## SirMike1983 (Sep 6, 2021)

jimbo53 said:


> Thanks for the servicing info on the TCW hub. I have an early 60’s Phillips DL-1 with 28” wheels and front rod brake but a TCW coaster 3 speed hub. Appears to be all original but TCW hub and rod brakes are a new one for me! View attachment 1423408




My guess would be a previous owner dumped the rear rod set up, at least part of it, and went with a rear coaster brake. That's a pre-1960 Phillips, from the look of it. The previous owner may have swapped in a coaster because it was more familiar. At one point, Hercules actually exported coaster-and-rod roadsters to the US, but the one I had did not have the holes for the bell crank. I'd be inclined to swap back to an AW and get the rod brake parts back on there.



Schwinny said:


> Is this one of the early TCW arms you mentioned? It was loose in a box of parts I bought many years ago.
> The 67' TCWIII I have on my custom racer hasn't missed a beat but I have bought a couple bikes with TCW 3spd coasters that freewheeled. I just replaced them. I've taken a lot of these 3spd hubs apart to grease and clean but never had to fix one. They are so plentiful that I just go down to the salvage yard and get another for $10
> I also found by trial and error that hi-temp grease on the outboard bearings keeps more oil in the hub (stickier with less flow as it heats). Since there are no seals there, its the grease that keeps the small amount of oil in the hub. It only needs an ounce or two. Too much oil and it washes the grease away, moves past the outboard bearings and drips on the floor and on the rim.
> 
> View attachment 1473928



That looks like one of the earlier arms. There's a later arm that is squarer and has a banner type Sturmey logo. I agree that the best bet is to get a good, low mileage TCWIII type hub as a starting point. The junked ones can be very hard to get "right", and you end up having to keep substituting in parts until it will function. It's a pain when you get to that point of swapping all kinds of parts in and out to get the right "mixture" to get the hub working again. The one put on my 1946 Hercules rod-coaster type worked well, but took quite a bit of doing to get there.


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