# Evaporust Recyling



## OLDTIMER (Jun 29, 2013)

I have long used polishing creams, Quick-Glo, etc. to remove rust from chrome. I have considered allowing chemical reactions to take the place of elbow grease and have bought my first gallon of Evaporust.
I am hoping that some can help me with some tips regarding use and preservation of the chemical if repeated use is possible.
1). Can it be used over?
2.) Once contaminated can it be cleansed (filtered) to remove the residue and repurify it's state.?
3). I presume it will evaporate over time. Can I seal it away in, per se, a container I use to "derust" my parts?
My objective is to be proficient with the use of the chemical, preserve it from loss (evaporation) and cleanse it to maximize its chemical potential.
Any ideas or instruction with use would be greatly appreciated.


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## jpromo (Jun 29, 2013)

I respond only with hopes to find these answers myself. I love the stuff. I find that it works amazingly on bare metal parts (nuts, bolts, horn units, kickstands, brake straps) or chrome that has gotten too rusty. It brings rusty parts to a beautiful bare metal. I still use oxalic acid baths for chrome that's not quite 100% rust but that's mostly because I haven't found a way to stretch the life of Evaporust (and it's pricey $$).

One thing about it is that it's not economical to fill a large tub with it, like you can with oxalic acid. So it's gotten the most use on small parts for me. I have never tried cutting it with anything either so I'd be curious to see if anybody found a good way to do that.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 29, 2013)

So far as I have seen, Evaporust will work until all "reacted" out, sort of like Oxalic Acid. You have a chemical reaction going on with the rust on the part. Evaporust will work up to the point the reaction with the rust is complete. If there is not enough rust, the Evaporust could continue to be used. If there is too much rust, the reaction will be complete before you get all the rust off. Oxalic is basically the same- you can re-use Oxalic Acid until the reaction is complete. I don't think you can filter either of them and improve it that way. It basically works until it doesn't; that is to say, it works until the chemical reaction with the rust has completed. 

The advantage of Evaporust over Oxalic is that it has less effect on the bare metal. Given enough strength and enough time (and this is usually a long, long time) Oxalic will eat away the base metal. It's an acid and given enough time, will damage the base steel. However, if you watch your time and strength, Oxalic is much more cost effective. Evaporust has the advantage of being gentler on the base metal, but costing a whole lot more. In that sense Evaporust is easier to use, but a lot more expensive. I prefer Oxalic Acid for its cost and don't mind keeping an eye on it. I suppose you could say Oxalic keeps working on the bare metal even after the rust is gone, but if you're having that happen, you're leaving it in too strong and too long.


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## Boris (Jun 29, 2013)

I purchased my Oxalic Acid from Miller Paints. At the same time I was encouraged to buy "DALLYS O.A.N." (Oxalic Acid Neutralizer). I've never used the neutralizer, because I've never had a problem with the residue, since I give my cleaned parts a thorough rinse with water and a good drying off. My only point here is that if anyone is uncomfortable with leaving the procedure at merely rinsing and drying, this product is available to neutralize the chemical reaction from the Oxalic Acid.
I did notice tonight however, that the label on Dallys stated that it is to be used to neutralize the reaction when cleaning WOOD with Oxalic Acid. It mentions nothing about use with metal. So I'll further state, "USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, A TEST IS ADVISABLE"


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## Waterland (Jun 30, 2013)

Evaporust can be reused several times depending on how rusty the parts you're soaking are.  You'll notice the liquid darken after each use to the point of becoming black, once it's black it's done for.  If it's still translucent, you can just pour the liquid back in the bottle.  It may take longer to react the second time around, but it still works.  I have a bottle that I've used on about three soakings now, some of it I've had to dump out because it turned black, but most of it is still in the bottle ready for another use.  Once it has turned black and is used up, just pour the used liquid down the drain, it won't harm your pipes.  You might notice some specks of dirt and other grime that may have loosened during the soak, it might be possible to filter this stuff out by pouring the used liquid through a metal sieve to clean the liquid somewhat, haven't tried it though.


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## popawheelie (Jul 25, 2013)

*Filtering Evaporust*

I have used Evaporust for the first time just recently. It did a perfect job removing the rust, and it stripped all the paint off my Torpedo headlights.
   The batch I used needed some cleansing, so I strained it through a Tee Shirt, and all the solids were trapped. The liquid will quit working at some point, but that is to be expected. 
   I've had great luck using Vinegar straight.....it is Cheap and works real well too.

   Keep on taking care of these cruisers, they've lasted this long.....

   Mike


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