# Need help with skiptooth chain clackity-clack



## Wheeled Relics (May 6, 2013)

Dave, 

I recently acquired another skiptooth chain bike, a (from what I've learned) 1950 Schwinn. I got a skiptooth chain from Dan, carefully added an extra link he included and closed the loop (again very carefully) with a pair of vise grips and finished inserting the pin with a small punch and little hammer being very careful not to damage any part of the chain. I did not have to use the master link to make the chain the right length.

The reason I describe that very carefully is because I am having a problem with the chain riding up on the rear sprocket when pressure is applied to the pedal, and the snapping into place as it continues around the reat sprocket. This does not occur when I spin the wheel or when it is pedaled on an even flat surface. Needless to say It is very annoying! It happens very evenly all the way around the chain, not missing a beat for the duration that a good "uphill" pressure is applied. Clackity clackity clackity. I can physically see the chain riding up on the gear tooth before snapping down into place. 

I have adjusted the rear sprocket forward and back in the dropout, left and right by using spacing washers, and am at the point of wondering if it is the chain or length of chain? Do you a have chain removal tool that will fit skiptooth chains? The only thing I can think of is to add one master link increasing the length slightly, and possibly chAnging how the chain meets the sprocket by a slight degree.

Any help or ideas is appreciated.

Still learning,

Dave


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## dougfisk (May 6, 2013)

Probably the chain is worn out, or the cog, or both.   Measure carefully a 12 inch interval and report how much "stretched" it is...



Wheeled Relics said:


> Dave,
> 
> I recently acquired another skiptooth chain bike, a (from what I've learned) 1950 Schwinn. I got a skiptooth chain from Dan Williams, carefully added an extra link he included and closed the loop (again very carefully) with a pair of vise grips and finished inserting the pin with a small punch and little hammer being very careful not to damage any part of the chain. I did not have to use the master link to make the chain the right length.
> 
> ...


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## Rustafari (May 6, 2013)

I just had a similar problem.  You might take a look this thread.  There is good link in post #5 that talks about chain stretch.  Very informative.

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?39760-Question-about-skip-tooth-chains


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## jpromo (May 6, 2013)

Yeah, I think all but one of my skiptooth bikes have at least some degree of chain stretch.


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 6, 2013)

Sure would be nice if someone would make new skip tooth parts.


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## Wheeled Relics (May 7, 2013)

*Skip tooth troubleshooting*

I've measured the distance between 12 links. It measures 12 inches. 

I modified a chain link removal tool so it fit the skip tooth. The details of this are between macguyver my diagonals and a diamond file. Needless to say it was very easy to remove and replace the pins on the chain without a hitch.

I added one link to the chain and a master link for convenience in the next troubleshooting steps. Adding this one link brings the rear hub almost all the way to the bottom of the dropout. Test ride still produces the clackity clack. 

Since I can now take the chain on/off easier I'll retire for the evening and try again in the morning before leaving to buy parts for other bikes. I was thinking of reversing the direction of the chain and flipping it over out of curiosity! Physically inspecting the chain does not reveal any deep grooves in the or show signs it has "stretched" through years of use... Rollers look round, bushings are fit not rattling, pins fit snug.


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 7, 2013)

The problem has to be with the rear cog. Enough wear between the teeth will let the chain slide forward when it gets to the top. That pulls the next segment forward *just enough* that a trailing link climbs onto it's corresponding tooth. Replacing the cog should solve the problem. Using a chain with a little bit of stretch to it would do the trick too.

I'm new to this hobby so I can't say I know from experience but that's how the engineering would explain it.


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## Wheeled Relics (May 7, 2013)

*informative help*

Thank you for the tips. Much appreciated. Still investigating. Making sure the chain is very snug seems to help a bit, but not all the way. Have to locate a rear cog in order to replace it... mmmmm or find a complete rear wheel...


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## Wheeled Relics (May 7, 2013)

*curious*

Assuming the rear sprocket is the problem, wear that causes the following link to slip up, could a knowledgable machinest work with the existing sprocket to rework in a way to solve the problem?


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 7, 2013)

It would be easier and cheaper to replace it. To fix the rear sprocket, it would have to be built up then machined back to original specs.


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## dougfisk (May 7, 2013)

Wheeled Relics said:


> Thank you for the tips. Much appreciated. Still investigating. Making sure the chain is very snug seems to help a bit, but not all the way. Have to locate a rear cog in order to replace it... mmmmm or find a complete rear wheel...





I have been buying them from Memory Lane... for a whole $6 plus shipping.   Finding it is probably easier than replacing it.


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## Wheeled Relics (May 9, 2013)

*Replace Original S-2 Skiptooth Sprocket?*

My bike friend found another skiptooth chain to try out tomorrow. If the new chain has no effect, and my hunch from troubleshooting and information here on the forum leans that way, I am considering replacing the sprocket. The way the chain rides up on every single link really makes me think its the speocket, but i will know soon. 

on replacing the rear sprocket, instead of diving into it and figuring out how it comes apart along the way, can anyone share some information on how to replace the sprocket easily while I wait for one to show up in the mail? I will post any relative links I find searching the forum.


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## Wheeled Relics (May 9, 2013)

dougfisk said:


> I have been buying them from Memory Lane... for a whole $6 plus shipping.   Finding it is probably easier than replacing it.




Thank you for this lead!


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## dougfisk (May 9, 2013)

You can usually identify a worn-put cog by appearance.  The teeth should be "full" in size and form and *symmetrical*.  When worn out they become asymmmetrical in shape; in the extreme they resemble a shark-fin or scythe or "hook".  In my experience, chains are most likely to be worn out, cogs next, and chainwheel never.  Does your chain climb up the teeth on your chainwheel as well?  ...or sit down tight in the notches?  I have had examples were the chain climbs up the teeth on the chainwheel... in these cases it has always been the chain that was at fault.


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## Wheeled Relics (May 11, 2013)

*Hooked asymmetry in cog teeth*

View attachment 96139They appear slightly hooked...


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## dougfisk (May 11, 2013)

Wheeled Relics said:


> View attachment 96139They appear slightly hooked...




Yes, that is taking on the "shark fin" look... no good can come of it.   I replace them for less offense than that.

Here is a little info about replacing at post #13...

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?41284-Built-for-speed/page2


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## tailhole (May 12, 2013)

*sharked*

Yeah, you've got a 'sharked' cog.  I replace those if I see them.  You might have to replace the threaded screw-drive that the cog is attached to also because they get screwed on so tight from riding, super impossible to remove.  Good luck.  Bicyclebones has them on the bay.


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## Wheeled Relics (May 13, 2013)

*Much appreciated!*



dougfisk said:


> Yes, that is taking on the "shark fin" look... no good can come of it.   I replace them for less offense than that.
> 
> Here is a little info about replacing at post #13...
> 
> http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?41284-Built-for-speed/page2




This is tremendously helpful! Thank you!


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