# Boiled Linseed oil vs. waxes (or a mix) as bare metal sealant?



## wspeid

I've over-read and researched myself into a state of indecision; hopefully some voices of experience could compare/contrast in a nutshell for me...

My pre-war Dayton handle bars have no trace of the original plating, just a pitted, rust-free metal patina I'd like to preserve/protect.  Some recommend sealants of boiled linseed oil, others say bees wax, some mix the oil and waxes, and others say more contemporary car waxes are the way to go.  

What would you use if this was yours?  Would you use the same on the frame where I've got original paint (and areas of the copper/cyanide wash patina) as well?

Thanks.


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## chitown

You can go old school and use Cosmoline. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline


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## scrubbinrims

I use a good quality gun oil like Remington.
Chris


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## SirMike1983

scrubbinrims said:


> I use a good quality gun oil like Remington.
> Chris




I'd go this route too- Hoppe's, Remoil, Balistol, even WD-40 on bare metal.


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## sam

Use rust!That's what the original gun makers used---called browning!


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## pelletman

waxoyl, and not the black one.  It is what the English car enthusiasts use to stop their cars from rusting.  Errrrrrr, on second thought... Never mind.


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## pelletman

Seriously though, I do like it


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## Balloontyre

*Secret tip shhhh!*

Gun oil called G-96, this product is harder to find but the absolute best oil treatment I've found, safe on all parts including paint.


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## hoofhearted

wspeid said:


> I've over-read and researched myself into a state of indecision; hopefully some voices of experience could compare/contrast in a nutshell for me...
> 
> My pre-war Dayton handle bars have no trace of the original plating, just a pitted, rust-free metal patina I'd like to preserve/protect.  Some recommend sealants of boiled linseed oil, others say bees wax, some mix the oil and waxes, and others say more contemporary car waxes are the way to go.
> 
> What would you use if this was yours?  Would you use the same on the frame where I've got original paint (and areas of the copper/cyanide wash patina) as well?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> View attachment 85712





*wspeid ... after a good, non-abrasive washing in soap and water .. followed by a wipe-down with 
denatured alcohol ... you might consider multiple coats of Krylon, Clear,  Matte Spray Finish.*

Werks fer me .....

..... patric


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## rustjunkie

hoofhearted said:


> *you might consider multiple coats of Krylon, Clear,  Matte Spray Finish.*
> 
> View attachment 158688




P:

     What's the longest you've observed after spraying with clear?


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## hoofhearted

rustjunkie said:


> P:
> 
> What's the longest you've observed after spraying with clear?






*S. ..... I matte cleared the Horrace M. Huffman signature (Mr. Huffman 
autograffed the carrier, ... back in 1992, 100 Years of Huffman Celebration .. 
he wanted to do a factory resto of the machine .. a free-bee -- I declined ... 
asked for his  autograff, instead) continuing ..... on my 1940 Huffman, Davis Flyer, 
Twin-Flex AND the tank, to preserve the decals, back in 1995.

*Now, no longer mine .. I took a very-good look at it in 2012 .. in the possession of T.G. ... 
It Looked Great .. no yellowing or flaking .. just a bit dusty ... I wiped-away some o' that dust ...
it _still _looked great.




...... patric



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## rustjunkie

Cool, thanks


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