# Whizzer on Sterling badged Columbia? Have questions!



## Philliesfan30m (Dec 14, 2019)

A guy I was really good friends with and was like a grandfather to me told his kids that when he passed away he wanted me to have it. I only ever saw it once and thought it was really interesting because I never saw anything like it. It is in rough shape but I want to at least get it running so I can show his kids. I just recently got it and he unfortunately has been deceased for several years.  Ok sorry about that! I would just like some info about it like the year of the bike? I didn't get a chance to look for a serial number so if someone could tell me where to find it that would be great. I have pictures that I'm going to be posting. I did some research and found that it is a whizzer h model motor and the serial number is 124545 in the picture. A 1948 motor? Just a guess. Now for the bike it has a Sterling badge built like a watch by Westfield mfg company Westfield Massachusetts I believe the pictures aren't the best! But on the front fender I believe it says Columbia in the middle of the front fender in white and other words on the top and bottom but it's faded and I can't make it all out. I'd like to know if someone could tell me what year and model bike if possible. Thanks in advance for any information! It's greatly appreciated. The knowledge of bikes on this forum is unbelievable. Sorry for such a long start to my thread.


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## redline1968 (Dec 14, 2019)

As far as I know Columbia bikes were not built for whizzer motors.. check for factory indents on the frame...


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## Freqman1 (Dec 15, 2019)

Look underneath the crank for the serial number. V/r Shawn


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## cyclingday (Dec 15, 2019)

As you’ve already figured out, it is a Westfield built bike.
They were the makers of the Columbia brand bikes.
The name Sterling on the badge is a generic jobber type name, given to one of the many outlets were they sold bikes.
Many people get confused when they first enter this hobby, because there are literally hundreds if not thousands of name badged bikes, but only a handful of actual manufacturers.
So for future reference, what you’ve got there, is a Westfield built, Sterling with an aftermarket Whizzer kit.
The Whizzer kit, was advertised and sold to adapt any ordinary balloon tire bicycle into a motorized bike.
Some of the other guys can better pinpoint the exact date of everything, but I’d say it’s safe to say you’re looking at a late 40’s setup there.
Several other manufacturers built a model that was specifically set up, for the Whizzer kit adaptation.
Extra clearance for the belt drive etc.
I’m not sure, that Westfield ever did.
Though, I don’t see why they wouldn’t.
But, as such, you don’t see many Westfield bikes that have been Whizzerized, so it does make your bike unique and interesting.
Fortunately for you, Westfield built a ton of those bikes, so finding some of the missing parts, shouldn’t be too much of a problem.
Rear fender, chainguard etc.
Your front fork looks bent back a bit, but that is an easy fix if you take it to a bike shop that has a tool called, 
“The Little Brute.”
When you bought the Whizzer kit, it came with an instruction manual, that explained how to trim the rear fender so that the drive belt can pass through it.
That’s probably why the fender is gone. It either got botched or it’s still lying around the shop somewhere waiting to get trimmed.
It actually looks pretty cool without a fender, so you might just take off the front fender, and call it good. Just a thought.
Anyway, you’ve got the great bones of a neat project there, and it should be pretty heart warming, to think, that your friend thought enough of you, to pass his Whizzer project on to you, after his passing.
I’m sure everyone would get a kick out of seeing that old bike, back up and running.
You’ll, absolutely love it, the first time you’re running it down the road.
And when you do, be sure and raise a hand skyward to thank your old buddy for the experience.
Good luck, and keep us up to date on the progress.


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## Philliesfan30m (Dec 15, 2019)

Thanks for the info and the ideas! I might take the front fender off! I'm pretty sure it was wrecked a few times because I am going to have to replace the spokes! Especially on the rear and from my measurements they are all .120 by 10.25 inches to the center of the j hook. And the front spokes are .105 but I didn't measure the length of them but they were in pretty good shape and I just cleaned them up on a wire wheel. I'm pretty sure he told me that he bought it at the Montgomery ward that used to be on town here but I don't know if he just bought the bike and motor separate or if he bought it already put together. I just can't picture him putting it together not that he couldn't just he didn't really get into working on things but it is possible he did! The front rim has a Bendix model k hub 56-11 are the numbers on it! I'm just putting info out invade someone else could use it. The rear has a new departure hub and brake model d that has the .120x 10.25 spokes if my measurements are correct I know the diameter is correct but I don't know if the length is exact. I will check for the serial number on the bike when I get a chance. I have a 16 month old daughter so I don't get much time to work on it. The front hub had a broken ball bearing. It's a .25 inch ball that broke and there are 8 ball bearings. The sealed bearing picture goes in the double pulley that is in between the motor and the rear tire pulley. The bearing has a spacer that goes over the bolt and I didn't measure that but the bearing has an id of .668 approximately and od is 1.575. I will measure the spacer next time and post the measurements. I don't know if anyone has this info but if they do I apologise for repeating it. Just trying to put as much as I can out for someone that might need it. Again thank you for the info about the bike I appreciate it especially cyclingday. When I find the serial number then I hope that I can figure out what year it is but I looked on the bottom of the crankcase but I didn't see any numbers I will check closer.


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## Philliesfan30m (Dec 15, 2019)

My bad on the Bendix it is 36-11 not 56-11


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## Philliesfan30m (Dec 17, 2019)

The serial number was on the crank under a bunch of grease and dirt. L295024 hopefully someone can help with figuring out what year it is and maybe model of it. Thanks for any info you can provide!


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## Philliesfan30m (Dec 17, 2019)

Ok I found a thread that says L1 would be January 1944. And I think there are more numbers that I need to look for to find out more about it.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 7, 2020)

I'm in need of a few parts for a model h that I can't seem to find I'm not trying to do a complete restoration just get it running. I need a new whole gasket set for the motor with the copper head gasket. Clutch cable. Exhaust manifold. At a reasonable price. Does anyone know the lacing pattern of the rims I have? Or do they know anyone that could possibly help with finding the parts? Do any of the new whizzer parts fit the h? Ne5 wc1? Same head gasket? Any help is appreciated! I'm sure that the parts aren't the easiest to find and I don't know if they make repros that will work. Just got into this project. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 7, 2020)

A belt shield and a gas cap. They don't have to be in perfect condition. I read somewhere that a Ford bronco cap will fit but what years?


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## Thurman (Jan 7, 2020)

Philliesfan30m said:


> A belt shield and a gas cap. They don't have to be in perfect condition. I read somewhere that a Ford bronco cap will fit but what years?



Ford Courier is more like it. You will need to drill a small vent hole in it.









						NOS STANT GAS CAP G729 1972-73-74-75-76 FORD COURIER PICK UP  | eBay
					

NOS STANT GAS CAP G729 1972-73-74-75-76 FORD COURIER PICK UP. Condition is New. Shipped with USPS First Class Package.



					rover.ebay.com


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## motobiker46 (Jan 8, 2020)

Okay, Just to give you a bit of history regarding your bike.

It’s a Columbia/Westfield 1947 Heavy-Duty Motobike -- the first year (postwar anyway) that Columbia came out with this particular model! (The “L” on the Bottom Bracket denotes 1947, not 1944). This model was designed to be more rugged than the standard motobike in order to compete with other manufacturers (mostly Schwinn) in the emerging Whizzer market of the late 1940s. It featured a military-style lower truss bracket (which your bike has -- just above the front fender) for a more rigid front end along with a heavy duty “floating” Eclipse/Bendix 36-11 front hub (36 = number of spokes / 11 = .105 heavy duty spokes). The original rear wheel hub probably would have been a Morrow 36-11 utilizing .105 spokes as well. If the rear spokes currently on your bike are .120, the wheel may not be original to the bike and could have been swapped on when the bike was converted into a Whizzer bike. However, some Columbia models at that time did in fact use New Departure hubs and it appears your hub had been purposely drilled out to accept the heavier .120 spokes. So who knows?

The grips and the seat are original to the bike. One of the grips is obviously shot and the Persons Seat is a bit rusty needing a new cover but it’s still a nice original seat and in my opinion, worthy of restoration. Unfortunately, recovering can be a bit pricey if you job it out. 

The “Norma” brand clutch pulley bearing is original and may need replacing -- you can still purchase this exact bearing (NOS condition) on ebay (as I did some time back) for a reasonable price if you’re a purist, or you can simply use an after-market brand.

You’re correct that the H124545 would place its production somewhere in 1948 (I had a list somewhere that would have approximated the actual month/year by serial# but can’t find it right now).

There are still several suppliers of original Whizzer parts out there but I’m not sure who is still active (I used to use Memory Lane for most of my parts but unfortunately they’ve been out of business for several years now). You may have to do a search or maybe some other member can chime in.

Good luck with the restoration -- available time (and money) usually determines how long the restoration will take but the main thing is to have fun doing it! Hope all this helps...

Bob


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 8, 2020)

Thanks so much for the information Thurman and Bob! I appreciate it very much! Every little bit helps! That is great info Bob about the bike! I did check that Norma bearing out and it seems to be in good working condition still I put my finger through bearing and ran it against the wire wheel on the grinder and worked fine. I did order a replacement just in case. Speaking of that bearing why didn't they just make the inside diameter of it 1/2" instead of .666 and then put a bushing that has .666 od and .5 id? So it wouldn't wear the threads on the bolt as much? On a different note why does it have a bushing in the intake manifold? I didn't measure it but I was trying to clean it out a little bit and the bushing came out. Here is a picture of it. I will put the measurements up when I get a chance just in case it's not listed and can help someone.


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## motobiker46 (Jan 10, 2020)

The bearing bushing used on the Clutch Pulley Bolt acts as a secondary bearing surface (which may be a bit of an overkill, but does makes for good engineering practice). Regarding the Intake Manifold Tube -- never could figure out it’s purpose, although it does appears in parts diagrams for the “H” Whizzer engines that I’ve seen. One of the two H engines that I own has the tube and the other one doesn’t (but I imagine it might have been left off during a prior rebuild). Since it does restrict the passageway of the manifold, maybe that’s part of the intent.
regards, Bob


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## bricycle (Jan 10, 2020)

motobiker46 said:


> The bearing bushing used on the Clutch Pulley Bolt acts as a secondary bearing surface (which may be a bit of an overkill, but does makes for good engineering practice). Regarding the Intake Manifold Tube -- never could figure out it’s purpose, although it does appears in parts diagrams for the “H” Whizzer engines that I’ve seen. One of the two H engines that I own has the tube and the other one doesn’t (but I imagine it might have been left off during a prior rebuild). Since it does restrict the passageway of the manifold, maybe that’s part of the intent.
> regards, Bob



It is used as a restrictor to reduce output.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 10, 2020)

Thanks for the info. The measurements of the bushing or restrictor in the manifold is 1.7" length .75 od .575 id. Since it restricts output should I keep it in or take it out? What type of changes will it make with it out? What are your opinions on it? I'm going to be using the original ml5b carb. What would be a good Chinese carb to use as a back up? Mikuni 18mm? Will I have to alter it to make it work and if so does anyone have any advice on what needs to be done? Drill out the mounting holes to make it fit on? Change jet needles etc?Thanks for any help.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 13, 2020)

I was just taking some dimensions and figured I would share them for anyone who could use the info. They all apply to the gas tank and cap area. Whizzer h motor tank inlet dimensions are 1.94" from slot to slot and .75" are the length of the slots and .25" deep for the tabs to lock into. The inside diameter of the tank opening is 1.5". The length of the tank is 14.5" not including the mounting brackets. The brackets stick out .375 or 3/8" on both ends making the overall length with the brackets 15.25". The height of the tank is 6" and the width is 6.5" and the nipple for the sediment bowl is 1/8" 27 npt sticking out of the bottom of the tank. Hopefully it will help someone if the info isn't already out there it will be now. I will put the depth and width of the indentation in the tank that goes into the top bar of the bike frame for mounting when I get a chance.


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## Philliesfan30m (Jan 14, 2020)

The indentation in the tank that goes over the frame to mount the tank the dimensions are a little over 1" wide by 2 7/8" deep at the front and it tapers down to 1" at the back. The front being closest to the fill hole and the handlebars and the back is closest to the seat. Does anyone have some good pictures of the clutch setup for the h motor? Specifically the handle and where it attaches to the pulley and where it runs. Mine is missing the clutch cable and I don't know how it attaches to the pulley or what all I'm missing. Thanks in advance for any help. I couldn't find any close up pics of the clutch cable where it is attached on both ends.


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