# My new 1936 CWC Roadmaster



## DonChristie (Mar 31, 2019)

I scored this bike out at Myrtle beach, SC last weekend. It was on CL forever so i finally got it. I believe this is a 1936 CWC made Roadmaster. It appears to have some type of coating on the paint? Looks like Linseed oil? Bars/neck are perfect and the seat is very nice. However, i dont think the seat is orig? Appears to be a liteweight type. Anyone recognise it? I also want a set of Johns black walls! Anybody know if they are still available? Any for sale? had a similiar bike yrs ago and sheepishly sold it. Kind of why i got her! How can i confirm year? Anyone have a copy of the orig advertisement or catalogue? Any and all info is appreciated!


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## tripple3 (Mar 31, 2019)

DonChristie said:


> How can i confirm year?



Super Cool! I'm glad you got it.
How can you ask us to confirm year without posting the serial number?
The early ones have the BB offset ever-so-slightly usually stamped with an A.
I dig these frames and looked for 1 for awhile.
Congratulations Don!


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## OSCAR...N... (Mar 31, 2019)

Waaaooo I just buy this (Western flyer) and sell it to my friend the next day. & I believe its a (1936/37) not shure but LOOK like your bike Amigo good score....


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## rollfaster (Mar 31, 2019)

Thats a sweetheart of a find Don! Id say 36 is a good bet, but SN will tell.


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## mymikesbikes (Mar 31, 2019)

DonChristie said:


> I scored this bike out at Myrtle beach, SC last weekend. It was on CL forever so i finally got it. I believe this is a 1936 CWC made Roadmaster. It appears to have some type of coating on the paint? Looks like Linseed oil? Bars/neck are perfect and the seat is very nice. However, i dont think the seat is orig? Appears to be a liteweight type. Anyone recognise it? I also want a set of Johns black walls! Anybody know if they are still available? Any for sale? had a similiar bike yrs ago and sheepishly sold it. Kind of why i got her! How can i confirm year? Anyone have a copy of the orig advertisement or catalogue? Any and all info is appreciated!
> 
> View attachment 973071
> 
> ...



I love those long handlebars. Nice score.


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## stezell (Mar 31, 2019)

Good score Don, I kept seeing it on Facebook for a while and didn't want to bother him with shipping. 
Sean


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## DonChristie (Mar 31, 2019)

Thanks guys! Heres a pic of the serial number???


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## rollfaster (Mar 31, 2019)

@CWCMAN


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## CWCMAN (Mar 31, 2019)

Definitely a 1936 with the common 1936 characteristics, small paisley chain ring and triple step rims. The serial number just confirms.

Very crudely stamped serial. Looks to be a Z21762.

Not really sure why CWC used the X or Z on their serial numbers. Some would think that it was very early production but I have a 1935 production with an A and four digits which are much lower then any X or Z that I have seen. I also had an A serial frame with three digits that Mark Gleed (MRG) now owns.

The earliest of any CWC production would of been built right around September of 1935 when CWC entered into the bike manufacturing business. These bike are identified by the snub nose front fender and one piece non riveted fender braces.


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## auto1cycle2 (Mar 31, 2019)

Felixnegron said:


> Waaaooo I just buy this (Western flyer) and sell it to my friend the next day. & I believe its a (1936/37) not shure but LOOK like your bike Amigo good score....
> 
> View attachment 973150
> 
> View attachment 973150





CWCMAN said:


> Definitely a 1936 with the early characteristics, small paisley chain ring and triple step rims. The serial number just confirms.
> 
> Very crudely stamped serial. Looks to be a Z21762.
> 
> ...



Nice find!


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## BLWNMNY (Apr 1, 2019)

That’s a nice find.....I was lucky enough to pick up this 36 project 




about 4 months ago.


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## BLWNMNY (Apr 2, 2019)

Mine also has the offset B/B, Also........ see if anyone can make heads or tails of these stampings on mine. Maybe he had a little too much to drink that day........


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## lgrinnings (Apr 2, 2019)

Awesome bike Don. I'm working on my Z serial 1936 right now. I wasn't able to save the original paint thanks to the world's most horrible orange overpaint, but I've got something cool planned. I just need this northeast weather to cooperate a little more. Enjoy that ride!

-Lester


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## DonChristie (May 21, 2019)

Thanks guys! I finally got around to finishing her up! Here are some after shots.


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## Allrounderco (May 21, 2019)

Fantastic results!


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## jimbo53 (May 21, 2019)

A worthy ride to join your stable!  Wanna catch a ride this week?


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## DonChristie (May 21, 2019)

I'm off Thursday and Friday! Lets do it!


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## fordmike65 (May 21, 2019)

DonChristie said:


> Thanks guys! I finally got around to finishing her up! Here are some after shots.
> 
> View attachment 1001997
> 
> ...



Ugg...did the Torrington stem snap on you? Or did you swap it out for something more sturdy?


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## DonChristie (May 21, 2019)

Oh @fordmike65, you are very observant! Yes, one slight move and crack, she snapped!!! I did have the one pictured, but I felt real bad breaking the Aluminum one! Rookie mistake!


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## jimbo53 (May 21, 2019)

DonChristie said:


> I'm off Thursday and Friday! Lets do it!



Good for Fri. 4 Mile Creek GW @ 9:00? Gonna be 95 degrees so might want to get going earlier


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## tripple3 (May 21, 2019)

DonChristie said:


> Oh @fordmike65, you are very observant! Yes, one slight move and crack, she snapped!!! I did have the one pictured, but I felt real bad breaking the Aluminum one! Rookie mistake!



Mike and I know all about that.
I broke the original stem too; knowing they break easy!
I think bad design.
I am also glad mine broke when it did; not while riding it!
Is there a DBR thread yet?
It looks like someone should start one up.....


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## OldSkipTooth (May 21, 2019)

On those alloy stems use a flat washer before the bolt. the steel bolt head grips the alloy and snaps it. You also have to get use to having slightly lose handlebars.


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## TieDye (May 21, 2019)

OldSkipTooth said:


> On those alloy stems use a flat washer before the bolt. the steel bolt head grips the alloy and snaps it. You also have to get use to having slightly lose handlebars.



Put a very thin steel sleeve over the handlebar clamp area, or take a punch and pound some divets in it. It will induce some elevated nubs that the clamp will grab into and keep the handlebars tight.


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## fordmike65 (May 21, 2019)

Seems there are specific bars meant to be used with these stems. The stem clamp area is knurled.


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## TieDye (May 21, 2019)

fordmike65 said:


> Seems there are specific bars meant to be used with these stems. The stem clamp area is knurled.
> View attachment 1002153



All the bars I have, have the knurling. Sometimes it isnt enough, or they get worn down. If you rechrome your bars they don't have deep enough knurls.  The pointed tip chisel displaces some of the metal and causes bumps and the clamp has plenty of grip then. Cures the problem.  You can make a shim that has these bumps and sleeve the knurled area if it's super worn out.  Either method is relatively easy to do and fixes the problem.  Next time, I'll take before, during, and after pics.


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## lgrinnings (May 21, 2019)

The knurling on these bars is pressed on. Here’s what the seam looks like...


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## fordmike65 (May 21, 2019)

TieDye said:


> All the bars I have, have the knurling. Sometimes it isnt enough, or they get worn down. If you rechrome your bars they don't have deep enough knurls.  The pointed tip chisel displaces some of the metal and causes bumps and the clamp has plenty of grip then. Cures the problem.  You can make a shim that has these bumps and sleeve the knurled area if it's super worn out.  Either method is relatively easy to do and fixes the problem.  Next time, I'll take before, during, and after pics.



That may be...and yes, most bars have knurling. The bars used with these stems are a bit different, as @Igrinnings posted. They are earlier bars, fazed out in about '38 or so as were the stems. I have several '36 Colsons with this exact set up and a '37 Monark. I'm very careful not to overtighten them or put much weight on the bars while riding. I have yet to break one.


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## TieDye (May 21, 2019)

fordmike65 said:


> That may be...and yes, most bars have knurling. The bars used with these stems are a bit different, as @Igrinnings posted. They are earlier bars, fazed out in about '38 or so as were the stems. I have several '36 Colsons with this exact set up and a '37 Monark. I'm very careful not to overtighten them or but much weight on the bars while riding. I have yet to break one.



Being careful is key with that cast stem. They are delicate and not of the best design.  I have original handlebars from the late 40's that have the sleeved knurling originally.  As with any stem, if the bars start moving, it gouges into the knurling, and if not remedied soon, you'll have to fix the issue anyway you can.


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## cyclingday (May 22, 2019)

Nice looking bike, Don!
I just had my first experience with the CWC Double Bar Roadster.


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