# '48 Whizzer



## TR6SC (Dec 3, 2018)

I'm new to Whizzers so forgive me if I ask stupid questions. My first ones have to do with the extension to hold the brake arm. Is this stock? Is it only on certain models? Can or should it be eliminated?
Thank you very much. More to come!


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## bike (Dec 3, 2018)

That is called a standing brake arm. It is on factory whizzer frames- it moves the force of the brake so as to not bend the frame- do not remove....


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## TR6SC (Dec 3, 2018)

bike said:


> That is called a standing brake arm. It is on factory whizzer frames- it moves the force of the brake so as to not bend the frame- do not remove....



Thanks!!


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## cyclingday (Dec 4, 2018)

Let's see what you've got.
I picked up a 46 about a year ago and was surprised to see that it didn't have the standing brake arm.
I guess that evolutionary feature hadn't happened yet.


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## whizzer_motorbike_fan (Dec 4, 2018)

Yes I would leave it in place. Definitely an upgrade to the factory frames as not to bend the frame under the braking force.


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## "Winged wheel" (Dec 4, 2018)

lets see the whole thing


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## TR6SC (Dec 5, 2018)

This is all new to me. What fun!
Solid hardened grease in all the bearings. The Morrow is cleaned and working, but fairly beaten down. Worn braking surfaces and worn teeth. It takes about 3/4 of a turn on the rear cog to engage. Bottom bracket is now clean and the chain is de-rusted. Twist grips and cables were solid, now slip and slide! The carb is now cleaned up. Lots of creativity went into the adjustment of the belts. It took a few attempts to suss out the order, but I'm pleased with the belts and chain and cable tensions. In the next couple of days I'll see about starting it. I've got spark, but haven't found info yet on the timing. I see there are TDC and IGN marks on the flywheel. More to come....


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## bike (Dec 9, 2018)

Your frame is probably dimpled for belt clearance- hard to see from your shots


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## TR6SC (Dec 9, 2018)

Yes, this is one of those Schwinn Whizzers that was built in the factory


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## TR6SC (Dec 11, 2018)

Moving deeper into the Whizzer. I've got the fuel system straightened out. A new check valve, seat, and bowl gasket. The float level looks right and everything is clean and dry.
Next comes the points and valves. The points look almost new. From what I can figure, the gap isn't set and then the timing set. The timing gets set via the point gap. Am I right in this thinking? Or does the flywheel get moved?  Also, is the IGN mark used for static or strobe?
And then there are those valves. Somebody clue me in please. Do we go into the lower end to get this done? Are there shims? Adjusting screws? 
Please and Thank Y'all as always.


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## bricycle (Dec 11, 2018)

I always set my points with a light.


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## TR6SC (Dec 11, 2018)

bricycle said:


> I always set my points with a light.



Static light or timing strobe?


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## bricycle (Dec 11, 2018)

static


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## whizzerbug (Dec 11, 2018)

you can eliminate the points and install electronic ign module , no need to time engine .


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## TR6SC (Dec 11, 2018)

whizzerbug said:


> you can eliminate the points and install electronic ign module , no need to time engine .



Please, tell me more. And what about the valves? Thanks.


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## whizzerbug (Dec 11, 2018)

you simply remove the points and install module in there place , you need a good magneto and I believe a good condenser , the module comes with instructions and you can buy them on ebay ,to adj valves remove valve cover turn flywheel to TDC set valve lash at .012 for both int and exh. I would recommend getting an owners manual  it has all the info in there to get your whizzer up and running, if you can pick a copy of whizzer facts while your at it


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## TR6SC (Dec 15, 2018)

Thanks to all who've helped out. I got the beast to come alive today. It'll take a bit of adjustment to dial it in, but it sure sounds good. I need an air filter, and some sort of return spring for the throttle. I think I might also hunt up some goodies for it like a speedo, lights, and a rack.


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## Goldenrod (Dec 16, 2018)

All Whizzers will eventully leak into the points because of the pin wear.  I put in a module on my rider.  Module will only work if your magnets can hold up an 1 and 1/2 wrench.  Try this first.  Join the Whizzer Newsletter and learn stuff?  ph 920-559-1922


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## Goldenrod (Dec 16, 2018)

TR6SC said:


> Thanks!!



Also the strap will break at high speed and the stock break arm will spin and no breaks when you need them.  Joe Carola has these arms new and we Illinois Boys all have them on our riders and restored bikes.  Joe also welds the plates onto the frame and dimples the stock frame.  Ph.920-559-1822 for more info.


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