# Oxcalic Acid Mixing and use advice /experience



## Jesse McCauley (May 6, 2015)

Lots of mentions but considering the hazardous chemical nature and that fact that I'm trying to deal with original paint makes me hesitate to jump in with gusto.

Locally all I could find was the granulated mixture which I'm supposed to add 2gallons of hot water to. This product is meant for wood bleach but same acid it seems.  

Should I use a full mixture? Can I dilute and still meet with the same success? 

I'll get some updated pics up soon,  I just bought a baby pool and a bunch of acid so I'm hoping to make a project out of it tonight. 


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## cyclingday (May 6, 2015)

Have no fear. Just follow the instructions and leave the parts in the solution for at least 8 hours, and you'll be good to go.
I've never found the need to keep the water any warmer than ambient tempature. But, if you live in a cold climate, then it might need to be brought up a little warmer.
The only thing the Oxalic crystals remone is Iron Oxide, so don't worry about the paint. It will be fine. You might want to temorarily plug any of the gas relief holes in the frame or fork blades, to avoid having to drain the frame later.


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## wspeid (May 6, 2015)

Jesse,
I've had great success with the Wood bleach in the baby pool approach.  The only concern was I then had 60 gallons of slightly acidic water that I didn't know what to do with, didn't want my dogs drinking from and didn't want to dump in the storm drains.  However, in terms of effectiveness, I had great results.   

I actually actually monitor progress very closely because I'd prefer to err and pull the parts out a little early and have to put them back in, rather than have waited too long and had the finish get a bit cloudy.  I've had painted parts ready in only 3 or 4 hours, nickeled parts can take the full 8.


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## Cheezer (May 6, 2015)

Locally all I could find was the granulated mixture which I'm supposed to add 2gallons of hot water to. This product is meant for wood bleach but same acid it seems. 

Should I use a full mixture? Can I dilute and still meet with the same success? 

that sounds like a strong mixture to me, i think i did like 1 or 2 tablespooons for every few gallons of water, if you search some other post's on here you will find a more precise mixture i'm sure, i just kind of winged it.


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## jpromo (May 6, 2015)

I usually use a couple tablespoons a gallon as well. It's not an exact science and you won't hurt anything either way as long as you watch the stuff. Painted parts do not typically take long. I was able to watch the one complete bike I did go from brown to blue again by the time I put the last parts in. Maybe 30-45 minutes per part in my experience. That was with maybe 8-10oz of powder in a kiddie pool. Agitate the water every few minutes. The most important part is that the water is hot. Gets less effective as it cools. 

Another thing is to immediately dry the parts and spray them down with WD-40 or wipe with linseed oil. Hose WD-40 inside the frame tubes as well to discourage rust from the inside. I assume you're going this route because the frame is quite rusty but shows original paint underneath? Anything less than a fully rusty frame I would find another way.

Chrome pieces can stay in as long as you please. I've left those overnight without worry. Add another teaspoon and more hot water as it cools if need be. Though, wheels should be disassembled because it will eat the plating on spokes and make them rust. Cleanup is the biggest pain about it because you don't want to just dump it out. I let the water evaporate itself mostly out for a few days and then poured the rest into my chemical buckets to bring to a hazardous waste dropoff.


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## vincev (May 6, 2015)

TY for the tips


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## bricycle (May 6, 2015)

Just a side note: It will not actually make your paint look any better, brighter etc. (least not mine)
Not sure how much to use, ratio I tried was.... about 1.5 cups to 40 gals. for 24 hrs (kept watching). Water did turn a very light shade of green/yellow-green. It did remove the rust. 
Just remember you must dispose of said solution. *Does it affect your lawn?*


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (May 6, 2015)

The acid can be neutralized with baking soda and poured onto the garden.


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## John (May 6, 2015)

It is sold to spray on a wood decks or fences, which runs off onto the ground when you use it. The word acid make you think that it is harmful but it is in the food you eat.


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## bricycle (May 6, 2015)

Thanks John & Gio


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## Jesse McCauley (May 6, 2015)

Just the sort of conversation I hoped to ensue while I was at work. Here is the project I have, rust and/or grease stains over otherwise original paint. Obviously lots of scarring and paint loss between.

What's the verdict? A good candidate for an acid bath?







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## bricycle (May 6, 2015)

Myself, going forward, I would only use on surface rusted items.


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## Jesse McCauley (May 6, 2015)

Hmmm, I'm not sure if I follow, you mean when all you see is a rust covered surface? I.e. not in this case?


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## bricycle (May 6, 2015)

Jesse McCauley said:


> Hmmm, I'm not sure if I follow, you mean when all you see is a rust covered surface? I.e. not in this case?
> 
> This is what got me to decide to use it...... http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?41434-1940-Huffman-National-big-tank
> did not make my colors pop like that....


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## ranman (May 6, 2015)

What Giovanni said - baking soda.


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## the tinker (May 6, 2015)

Jesse, look at  "Seeing Is Believing" under the Restoration Tips thread, posted the week before last. You will see what to expect. I would not leave it in over 8 hours. The paint may flake off. I left it in it too long and paint started to flake off on a postwar Schwinn fender. Good luck.


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## SirMike1983 (May 6, 2015)

The better oxalic acid threads should probably be a repair sticky at this point. 

Oxalic Acid is indeed "deck bleach" or "wood bleach". You usually see it in those little "Savogran" white cups sold at paint stores. You can also buy it pre-mixed and online in bars.

There are a couple topics on the forum, but here is my experience with a set of painted fenders:

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?32190-Old-paint-chrome-repair&p=173526#post173526

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?32190-Old-paint-chrome-repair&p=173691#post173691


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## KingSized HD (May 8, 2015)

I've used OA with some amazingly great results. I agree you should probably search the "restoration tips" thread though for complete discussions of experiences & pics. 
1.My best results have been with HW & MW chrome,haven't used on anything antique. NO chrome issues & great results. I'd be careful to check painted items every 1-2 hours, I had a heavily surface rusted frame I may have left too long, now a faded red (but entirely rust free!). And if the rust is under the paint it'll lift the paint off as rust is "eaten".
2. Wear protection, I wear splash glasses & gloves and avoid breathing the stuff, keep it off bare skin-can cause LT effects to internal organs even if you don't feel it burn your skin short term.
3. I wash the OA off the part completely (soapy water) then Spray WD-40 everywhere. 
I neutralize the acid with pool store baking soda when I'm done. Don't let my pets get into it.
BTW-Works fine with multiple uses.

If you're going to use OA a lot check out the Rubbermaid #4243 50 Gal Stock tank (got mine at a Tractor Supply) big enough to do an ENTIRE HW in one soak, strong enough to cover with heavy plywood to keep the dogs out, shallow so you can reach parts on the bottom with gloves on. Mine will last for years.


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