# 1947 Ladies Huffman Lightning Flyer



## Doppleganger (Nov 7, 2012)

Hi everyone. Been lurking around for a few years when we discovered my mom's 1956 JC Higgens in my grandmother's attic.....where she left it in 1959. That got me interested in these old classics. 

Well....fast forward 6 years - my girlfriend has the urge to (have me) restore a vintage bike for her everyday ride. I found this specimen quite cheap - mostly intact but in bad enough shape I dont worry about "original paint", etc. 

To be blunt, I've spent the last 20+ yrs restoring old Volvos, but I know nothing of these bicycles.....that is, part sourcing, how to's (removing name plates, etc), or narrowing down a date of production. I want to keep this as close to original as possible but haven't found any old ads or catalog photos to give me any idea as to paint schemes, whats chromed, etc. 

The serial number on the bottom is 7H030906, which looks to be a 1947 Lightning Flyer, but I can find nothing on this model. Really looking forward to returning this to its glory days - then maybe finding one for me to go with it 

Thanks in advance for any help or direction you can offer.


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Nov 7, 2012)

*Ask member 37fleetwood*

37fleetwood - thecabe forum member would be the man to ask -- I sure he can get you the paint scheme & more info


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## jd56 (Nov 7, 2012)

Welcome to the posting section. Many lurk for years before they ask for assistance or give advice. 
That's what's great about this site, there is always an opinion.
Only because i think I know a few things but, am often told I don't....I'm guessing prewar and with the rear wheel adjusters (always thought those indicated prewar) and the 
7H serial prefix...I would say 1937. But maybe 47??

But there are more knowledgeable here than me and I'm sure Scott (37fleetwood) will chime in and correct me or confirm the year.
If only once I could get something right. But, I just wanted to see if I'm correct out loud.

Have fun with the resto. I'm sure you will find a good match to her. I'm interested to see what color is under that house paint red.


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## Doppleganger (Nov 7, 2012)

Thanks a bunch for the input. I've seen many postings by 37fleetwood and do remember him as very knowledgeable about these. I pm'd him but can't tell if it went through (nothing is in my 'sent' folder).


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## 37fleetwood (Nov 8, 2012)

HI, I did get your PM's. 1947 looks about right and the serial confirms it. Huffman used the rear facing drop outs until the mid '50's.
the easiest way to remove the head badge screws is to use a large flat bladed screw driver and put the tip on the end of the screw from the inside of the head tube. lean the screw driver against the opposite edge of the head tube and gently but firmly pry until you hear it pop. from there you should be able to grab the head with a pair of pliers and pull it out.
I just looked on ebay and couldn't see a tank but they come up often and very reasonably, usually under $20.00. I also thought I would share this bike, they would make a nice pair. it wouldn't need to be painted, but it has the wrong head badge and could be changed to Lightning Flyer easy enough. you could even use it to match colors and paint patterns for the girls bike.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Prewar-Dayton-Huffman-LaSalle-Chicago-Cycle-26-Original-Boys-Bicycle-/160916610260?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2577609cd4

which brings me to my next subject. I know of a few new old stock Lightning Flyer head badges if you're interested I can check into it. I also have new head badge rivets.

here is a photo of my Lightning Flyer. it's a boys but gives you an idea what they look like done up.





here's the catalog image for the girls bike:


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## Doppleganger (Nov 8, 2012)

Thanks very much for responding and with the priceless info! It has led me to....well, more questions :o

What are the 2 rounded rods going from the handle bars to the front hub? Was the rear fender rack an option? Or is it missing on our bike? Was there anything like a rear basket available for these (I'm thinking more of something original)? My girlfriend loves the wicker baskets on the older bikes. I'd also be interested in a new head badge - are these brass? I ask only because I wondered if the one we have could be polished (I have no idea what they originally looked like). 

Are there any repro tires made for these? I love the "Lightning" (how appropriate) on them, but cringe at the cost or daily usage of an original or NOS one. The rims look like they've seen potholes in their day - was considering replacing them but was unsure if that is faux paux with these classics. Is the fender light generic or was it a specific Huffman? Totally unsure as to where to find the lid to it or perhaps just find a repro? 

Also - is there a "correct" style of fender brace to use on these? They look to be riveted to the fender - is there a style or size of rivet to secure them? 

Sorry for all the questions......this is my first one.  

Thanks again!


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## 37fleetwood (Nov 8, 2012)

Doppleganger said:


> Thanks very much for responding and with the priceless info! It has led me to....well, more questions :o
> 
> What are the 2 rounded rods going from the handle bars to the front hub? Was the rear fender rack an option? Or is it missing on our bike? Was there anything like a rear basket available for these (I'm thinking more of something original)? My girlfriend loves the wicker baskets on the older bikes. I'd also be interested in a new head badge - are these brass? I ask only because I wondered if the one we have could be polished (I have no idea what they originally looked like).
> 
> ...




HI,
the rounded rods are called truss rods. the rear rack, truss rods, and tank would have been correct on a higher level bike, not so much on a lower model. there is nothing to be gained by leaving this as a lower model bike. I would hunt down the parts and upgrade to the level of the ad I posted.
there was no factory option of baskets, but accessorizing is a completely acceptable practise. use the accessories you like. the head badge would have been brass with nickel plating. they came in red and blue. see the photo below.
If you ride, I would go with new tires, the old tires simply don't hold up to riding and are expensive. the Carlisle Lightning Darts wouldn't have been factory correct anyway. however, you can get new old stock Lightning Dart tires if you look and ask around. and no faux pas in using new tires on a rider bike, and this will never be a show bike.
the light is a fairly common Delta Torpedo light. they sell all the time on ebay just make sure you get the one like yours. the differences are in the front bezel. yours takes the rounded one.
Huffman did use their own fender brace, I may have a few. rivets are a difficult thing, they are readily available, and fairly cheap. the problem comes in installing them. most people don't have the tools to do it correctly. there are cheap crappy tools you can get but they barely work and the results are mixed at best. many people simply buy the screw type fake fender rivets, they are also readily available on ebay.
Did I miss anything?


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## Doppleganger (Nov 8, 2012)

Thanks for all the help - and sorry for so many questions. On the upside, I'll only have to ask once 

I am possibly interested in the NOS head badge/rivets (in red) and fender braces. No hurry - I have until Spring to deliver the goods. I'll start disassembling it in a couple weeks or so. I'm hoping there's a patch of original paint either under the existing lamp or on the edge of the head tube. I do like the idea of decking it out and will definitely plan to go that direction. 

Was there a specific Huffman luggage rack - or were they semi-generic like the lamps? 

I think we'll enjoy this much more than had it been a "show" bike. I've had cars like that and one tends to get afraid to drive them or so protective you forget to enjoy it. 

I'm really looking forward to this and will add pics as it progresses. I know it will look good in the end


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## Doppleganger (Nov 22, 2012)

*Update*

Ok, I disassembled the bike today in preparation for paint, etc. Under the red paint, I found this: 







Then this under the badge: 




Kind of wondering if this thing wasn't 2-toned.  Also.....I dont suppose those chrome top/bottom caps where the fork goes are easy to remove/install are they? And how are the stripes done? Hand painted or decals? 

Thanks in advance.


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## 1918 Ranger (Nov 22, 2012)

Looking good.  Looks to me like its had the red paint added sometime in the past.  Looks like the green was original because it looks like the red covers the pin striping.  Pin striping is painted on originally. Some folks when restoring have used vinyl pin stripes at the end after they have painted the colors.  I prefer to paint the fenders white to start with where the stripes go, then take some vinyl pin striping and put on the fenders where they go, then paint the main color, and lastly pull the vinyl striping off and you have a nice clean painted striping that's not going to peel off a year down the road. 

The head set cups just drive out.  Use a long punch or screwdriver from the other side and tap each one out. Tap evenly side to side of course. 


1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Nov 22, 2012)

Thats kind of how I was thinking the fella on American Restoration would do it - 

Not sure if I'll paint it or have it powder coated. A place an hour north of here has 800 colors - a couple are REALLY close to a paint scheme/shade I think this bike was. If I do get it powder coated, I'll mask and paint the stripes myself. Done something similar on cars - its incredibly time consuming but does come out nice. 

Never heard back on any NOS badges so I took the one that was on it (all the nickle chrome had long since gone) and polished the brass. Looks incredible. 

If only this was almost May instead of almost December. 

I'm getting psyched.......


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## 37fleetwood (Nov 23, 2012)




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## Doppleganger (Nov 23, 2012)

OMG......I bet thats it! Thanks very much!!!!

You are one scary dude. I bet Huffy calls you to ask if they ever made something and what it looked like.


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## Doppleganger (Dec 1, 2012)

I have about everything disassembled, labeled and boxed for chrome plating and powder coating. I'm going to take the wheels down to a local bike shop to see if they can get me a pair of new lookalikes. Not sure if I keep all the bearings and innards to the rear hub or if that comes with the new wheels either. Thought I had found a set of new fender braces but I think they were for a more narrow tire so I'm holding off. 

Just one other little tidbit here - how does this come off? 





I have some Mylar tape I can tape it off and still have everything around it powder coated if need be. 

Thanks again for all the help guys. Couldn't do it without you.


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 1, 2012)

Doppleganger said:


> I have about everything disassembled, labeled and boxed for chrome plating and powder coating. I'm going to take the wheels down to a local bike shop to see if they can get me a pair of new lookalikes. Not sure if I keep all the bearings and innards to the rear hub or if that comes with the new wheels either. Thought I had found a set of new fender braces but I think they were for a more narrow tire so I'm holding off.
> 
> Just one other little tidbit here - how does this come off?
> 
> ...




The bearing race is drove down into place.  Sometimes they just fall down with no tightness.  Might try to pry back up side to side so not to crack it. You can always tape or grease it.   If you grease it, you just wipe the grease off after painting and the paint on it comes off with the grease. 




1918 Ranger


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## 37fleetwood (Dec 1, 2012)

they come off pretty easy. put the fork on a solid surface just like you have it, take a good sized flat bladed screw driver put it against the bottom edge of the race and give it a whack with a hammer. flip the fork over and repeat. before long it should be off.

as for the wheels, you can chrome the rims, or buy new ones. there's a ebay seller that sells nice chrome rims for $50 a set. and yes, you need to clean and rebuild the hubs, new ones are not nearly as well built as the old ones.

as for paint, it's usually more acceptable to paint the old bikes than it is to powder coat them.


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## Doppleganger (Dec 1, 2012)

I've taken about 40 pics of the bike in as close up as I can for re-assembly. I'm making a layout of the original stripes, so they can be added back on after paint.  

Thanks guys for the how-to on getting that bearing race off.  I used a wood block and small body hammer and straightened the fenders and chain guard. Only "damage" was a small rust hole (more like a 1/2" crack) behind the rear reflector. An easy patch that won't be seen when all is back together anyways. 

In disassembling everything, I also noticed that the clamp that holds the seat height adjustment looks to be spot welded to the frame, so I guess I'm to leave that be? 

Also - thank you for the advice on the hubs. I have no doubt everything on this bicycle is better than anything today. 

*UPDATE......UPDATED*

Spoke to the local shop today and was told that my 1947 hub innards would not fit into anything "new". So we decided to have a new rim and spokes (chromed stainless steel) redone on the '47 hub (which will be re-chromed beforehand along with the sprocket) and a completely new chromed stainless steel front wheel as the 47's is badly rusted and bent. 

Funny that none of the local bike shops really want anything to do with this and one that is into the older restos, acts like its a state secret when I ask any questions (if they have a burr because I'M the one doing the work, they can add I'm not buying anything from them now either). Odd ducks.


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## Doppleganger (Dec 9, 2012)

*Question*

I have no idea the cost of chrome plating. I have set aside a box if items from this bike I want to re-chrome, but have found a 'kit' of new hardware that IMO is probably cheaper than re-chroming my original parts. 

How do I know if this fits a '47 Huffy? 

http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Headset-4080-Threaded-Plated/dp/B000AO5FPG

I seem to be having a hard time finding out info or parts sources and none of the local shops _want_ to help. Might just part this bike out if it looks like things aren't available.


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 9, 2012)

You can find rims on eBay for 50.00 shipped for a pair.   Call Memory Lane out of Grand Rapids for other parts.  They are cheaper on most things. 

You might research zinc or nickel plating.  It's cheaper than chrome and still looks good for a nice plated look.  Here's a pic of my 49 Huffman Airflyte that I've restored.  I zinc or nickel plated items on it. I can't remember which between zinc or nickel gives a yellower color. I think zinc???  I did the other one whichever one gives a more silvery color. 








I will say all the springer parts were replated but the handlebars are replacements I got from memory lanes for less than 20 bucks. 

Also funny how some local bike shops have no interest or clue about these old bikes. There were 3 shops in my local area and 2 of the 3 were very unhelpful in any way.  All I would get was go look on ebay. 

Both of those 2 are gone or going out of business. The last of the 3 is helpful and host an annual swap meet.  They are the last man standing.  Cycology bicycles.  Great people. 

Anyway there are ways to restore somewhat economically. 

Good luck. 




1918 Ranger


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## Larmo63 (Dec 9, 2012)

I agree with Scott on passing on powder coating. I would

do paint on your bike as it was originally.


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 10, 2012)

Larmo63 said:


> I agree with Scott on passing on powder coating. I would
> 
> do paint on your bike as it was originally.




X3


1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Dec 10, 2012)

Thanks fellas. Nickle is the silver tone - I did tool and die for about 20 yrs and we used to zinc/tin coat tooling - it was the yellow-gold you see on some brackets and screws in cars. 

I will definitely check on that. The EPA has all but run most plating businesses out. There are a couple within a 3-4 hr drive of me, but insist on seeing parts in person (don't blame them really) and I'm not in the mood to drive 6-8hrs round trip to find out if their pricing is absurd or not. One is local but always goes to a cell  voice mail and then never returns the call, so I'm assuming they are done and gone also. 

Only reason I was looking to powder coating was for durability, but will probably resort to paint for cost. PC has almost tripled in price the last 3-5 yrs. When oil went to $150/barrel, everyone jacked their prices. When it came back to $86, they left them where they were. We picked out 2 tones of a sage green color....it somewhat resembles the original (which neither of us were crazy about) and will look awesome with new chrome, white stripes and black seat/handle grips. Has to be better than the red house paint and rust it was drenched in.  

Memory Lanes is about 30-40 minutes from me. I called them but they still acted like any chrome plating businesses they know of that are still open (and know how to handle vintage bike parts) is a state secret. I'll visit their store and see what they have / can do - I still need to find new pedal blocks w/o reflectors. Their price on wheels was about 25% more than the one local shop who did give me a quote on re-spoking my original hub into a new stainless rim gave me. Much will depend on the Bendix internals (one bearing needs replaced) as of course I would think ML is more versed in what it needs. 

Fwiw, when I pulled the wheels apart, the manufacturing date on both inner tubes was 02/64, so my guess is its out of warranty. lol

btw Ranger......that bike looks incredible. Hope ours comes out half as nice as that. How did you do your gold pinstriping? Did you paint it yourself or hire a shop?


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 10, 2012)

On the gold pin striping as well as any of my paint work, I have a painter that works for me in my business, which is heavy equipment repair, and he does all my paint work for my business and my bikes.  I tear them down and he paints them and then i reassemble the bikes in the end.  He's a really good painter who has restored cars from way back.  

We painted the gold on first, then puts a vinyl pin striping on where the stripes go, then do the rest of painting to bike and pull the vinyl striping off in the end leaving the gold underneath. 

Where are you located?  We have a plating business nearby that does my plating and reasonable.  It was a couple hundred for the Huffman Airflyte parts as well as some misc sprockets, goosenecks, and cranks I had done in addition.  


1918 Ranger


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 10, 2012)

The plating business is in East Tennessee. 


1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Dec 10, 2012)

My g/f's folks are in their 80's and live in Toledo, OH so we spend alot of time there. Been to Grand Rapids many times in the summer, but never knew there was a bike shop there. The one local shop that quoted me on wheels said for a new front chrome stainless wheel, and my old hub respoked into a new stainless chrome rim, and both with new tires was $100. That didn't sound too bad. If I can find a new ball bearing for my Bendix coaster brake, I'll probably let them do it. Otherwise, I'll ask ML (they wanted $140+ for the wheels - ouch), and wanted me to keep the original front hub as well - no idea why.

There is a local guy that has painted 3 cars for me. Does a decent job for the price. I've thought of asking him about doing this one. 

From the few I've asked, it sounds like its almost cheaper to just find NOS or repro stuff than to re plate the original parts. I found a place in Michigan thats about 90 minutes from me who will still give a quote based on a pic, so will see where that goes. 

You in East Tennessee?


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 11, 2012)

Yes in East TN, Maryville. 

I've found handle bars and rims are too high to plate for what you can by new ones for. The other metals are small enough to not run up the plating bill so badly.  For rims, the guy on eBay has them 50 a pair shipped; not bad.  Then memory L has spokes for @ 18.00 a set.  Cheapest way to go if hubs are useable. 


1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Dec 11, 2012)

I get to Knoxville about 1-2x a year. Usually stay in Clinton. Knoxville has northern-ized too much for me (my family was originally from MS and AL - lol), but I like Clinton. 

Do you re-spoke the rims yourself? I have looked but never seen the guy on feebay for $50/pr. Course, I'm not sure I know what I'm looking for (style, etc) either. The shop here told me 75c a spoke (installed) - the hub is still usable, but does need rechromed. Not sure they or ML would re-spoke a rim I bought elsewhere ?! 

I'm going to start looking for handlebars and maybe a stem. Much of this stuff I'll see what ML has. At least there they will know what I need - period/style correct. 

I'm going to begin the painting soon to see what damage to the pocket that does next.


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 11, 2012)

Just a thought.  Next time you come to Clinton, you might bring your metal parts and run down to Vonore.  Protech Metal Finishing in Vonore is the plating coming I use. You could have them quote you the plating cost and if you like it then they could ship back home to you after they plate. Turn around is typically 2-3 weeks or so.   They can plate the hub shell and parts also. 

On spokes, I have laced the rims before but for me it's a pain. Last couple sets, I've had highwheelerboy25 lace them for me. 




1918 Ranger


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 11, 2012)

Also if your next trip is not soon, call them and they can explain how they price a lot size. Then you can figure about what kind of expense you would have, then ship parts to them and them back to u in the end. 


1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Dec 12, 2012)

Ranger - 

What size is the headlamp on your bike? My g/f (whose bike this is / will be) doesn't care for the torpedo headlight, and to be honest, I don't either really. I was only going to replace it because the holes are in the fender, but those can be filled before paint, so nothing in granite. 

We do like the single round headlights up in the center.....like the old motorcycles. From the old catalog pics, these bikes didn't all come with a headlamp so I don't feel obligated to keep it if she doesn't like it. 

There are so many styles and sizes, I'm just trying to sift out which one to get. With the way the center lamps mount, it will be something I have to decide before re-assembly. 

Thanks much.


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 12, 2012)

Ill have to measure to be certain.  It's at my business. My guess is the headlight is @ a 4" diameter lens.  It's a Delta light.  The gent I bought the bike from got this bike new as a kid.  He probably added the light after he bought it.  It is a cool light. Especially to think this 70 year old man I bought it from some 60 years ago was flying around on this bike using this headlight to see by. 



1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Dec 12, 2012)

Way cool. Definitely going to go the 4" lamp route. 

When I found my mother's mint (untouched in the attic since 1959) JC Higgens bike, I had a pic of her when she was 10 standing in front of two 6ft pines out front of my grandmother's when she got it on her birthday. This is how it looked after I wiped it down for dust. Everything is original - even the tires still had air in them. 






I cut those pines down 15 yrs ago when they were 70 footers and a risk to fall into the house.


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## 1918 Ranger (Dec 13, 2012)

Doppleganger said:


> Way cool. Definitely going to go the 4" lamp route.
> 
> When I found my mother's mint (untouched in the attic since 1959) JC Higgens bike, I had a pic of her when she was 10 standing in front of two 6ft pines out front of my grandmother's when she got it on her birthday. This is how it looked after I wiped it down for dust. Everything is original - even the tires still had air in them.
> 
> ...




Is that a colorflow JC Higgins.  Beautiful bike!!!


1918 Ranger


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## Doppleganger (Dec 13, 2012)

1918 Ranger said:


> Is that a colorflow JC Higgins.  Beautiful bike!!!
> 1918 Ranger




To be honest I don't know. This was 7 years ago. My g/f loved it and we would have bought it but were strapped for $ at the time (the more things change the more they stay the same). My mother wanted to sell it as she was selling my grandmother's house and knew she'd have no place for it. A local bike shop clown where she lived offered her "$50" for it. I looked on feebay and saw another vintage girls' bike sold and contacted the "sniped loser" at the end (could still do that then - lol). I sent him pics and he offered $650 for it plus shipping. IIRC he was from northern CA and was collecting 3 of these for his grand-daughter's. Said he was going to redo it (why?!). Off it went. 

DHL was still here at the time and it was shipped in 2 boxes. They lost one (I had insured both boxes for $1000 each). 1 day before claim time, they found it and I assume it was on its way.  

Like with the cars of my past,  wish I could have kept this. Thing had every option known and it all was pristine and worked flawlessly. Even those streamers are the originals.


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## Doppleganger (Dec 14, 2012)

Stopped in to Memory Lanes today....was like a kid in a candy store. I never saw so much stuff old bike related, not including the resto'd ones already done. And if you're into Schwinn's, its Mecca. Would be worth a trip just to see it all. Guys there are really great - if this project continues, I'm sure I'll be wearing a path there.

However, now the wheels are an issue. They suggested I buy new wheels and upgrade to the new 1/2" chains. This would forgo keeping the original hub and all, so not sure what to do at this point. Its the little things like the Bendix plate that dates and sets these bikes off to me - the new one is stamped "Taiwan". They also told us to abandon restoring the original seat (its not what came on the bike in 1947, which is what I figured) but to get something newer. The g/f found what is the equivalent of a couch cushion. I'm sure its comfortable but is far bigger and IMO will look ridiculous. That was about the breaking point to me. 

Needless to say, I'm more hesitant to throw money at painting it now and am considering just parting it out. Doesn't seem to be restorable how I wanted to do it. I just don't have the knowledge to do it like I want and to pay/convince someone who does, exceeds the budget. If I wanted a chi-com bike, Wal Mart still sells those for less than what the paint job would cost.


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## Doppleganger (Jan 12, 2013)

Haven't given up on this yet........I'm going to replace everything yet keep the nostalgic look. I made an exact replica of the Bendix brake plate (CNC'd the logo and all) that attaches to the new rim perfectly. 

But I have a question: the sprocket/chain ring is a skip tooth and is about 7 1/4" in diameter. What is the formula for finding the size of a new 1/2" sprocket that is the same diameter? ML tried to sell me anything they could - most much larger than my original - but when I asked if it would fit under the chain guard, I got the "I dunno" response (worrisome for a list of reasons).  I want to find a 1/2" sprocket that is solid/blank (I've seen them in various sizes). Then I'm going to CNC the original designs from the Huffman into it. 

Thanks.


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