# Schwinn DX... I think?



## GTV (Jan 28, 2017)

Hoping the experts here can tell me exactly what this old frame is. Badge holes are vertical and 2 3/16" apart.


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## Schwinn1776 (Jan 28, 2017)

definitely a Schwinn, but also could be an American Flyer or BF Goodrich


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## keith kodish (Jan 28, 2017)

1940 schwinn dx97e

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## GTV (Jan 28, 2017)

Please share how you know this! I'm fairly well versed on the post war to mid 60's stuff, but pre war is new to me.


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## TheDXjedi (Jan 28, 2017)

the   down tube curve is different then the  41 and 39 is straight down tube


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## GTV (Jan 28, 2017)

Ahh, good to know. I figured it was a 40 or a 41 but I never spotted the differences in the down tube. Under my ownership this frame is destined to become a "traditional" 1975-ish period correct coaster brake klunker. I've started acquiring a few parts, I'll turn this into the build thread... 

Thank you for the help!


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## keith kodish (Jan 28, 2017)

Serial number helps,too.

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## Freqman1 (Feb 2, 2017)

Schwinn1776 said:


> definitely a Schwinn, but also could be an American Flyer or BF Goodrich




I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to say here but it is a Schwinn no matter what and I believe Keith has accurately dated it. American Flyer and BFG were merely badges. This bike could have had any number of badges on it. V/r Shawn


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## Schwinn1776 (Feb 3, 2017)

Totally true, just didn't explain it as clear as I should have. I have had many a schwinn wearing different head badges. Thank you for clarifying that point further. Didn't want to cause any confusion.
Cool


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## GTV (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks for the info fellas. Lately I've been focused on building a new commuter bike (1983 Schwinn World) but this bike is on deck. 

As I mentioned I have been collecting parts. I'm aware that these bikes came with a variety of headbadges, and since my bike didn't have one it really leaves only one choice for a klunker, Excelsior. The obiqutous Morrow hub has also landed, and a ridiculously long exerciser seat post. The crank/bb came from the same bike as the badge, supposedly a '37. I absolutely love old Schwinn's, but I can not stand the four leaf clover chain ring. I also want this bike to be more versatile (single track, etc.) than just ripping downhill, so I needed better/shorter gearing. I was on the lookout for a child's 18t chain ring, and this is what I recently found. Not sure what it is from, but it's reasonably good looking and will get the gearing (1.8:1) where I need it to be. 

As you can see the plan is very traditional mid 70's, but making it a better all around mountain bike will warrant a few changes, I'd love to hear your suggestions. The chainring is of course one. A Brooks B72 was the saddle of choice back in the day, but there's no way I could pedal for very long with that Lay-Z-Boy under me. So I'll need a slightly narrower Brooks, hopefully still sprung? The huge cruiser bars will also be a no-go, but I'm not really sure what will work. I want something much narrower, and period correct. Pedals with more grip as well. Vintage BMX?? I imagine I suppose I'll try to find an original stem and front hub, or should I go high flange? The hardest part to track down will be an original prewar fork with truss rods. I've been looking for months with zero luck....

The biggest, and probably the most subtle change will be wheels. I will convert it to 650b/27.5. It should make for a very fun rig. I'm hoping to have it ready for SSUSA in Bellingham this July, but that might be a little too ambitious. I'm considering building it up as it is, then tearing it down and restoring the frame at a later date. 

Comments and suggestions are welcome. Especially on how do I get that damn old seat post out???


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## GTs58 (Mar 2, 2017)

A slide hammer is the only thing I can think of off hand to remove that seat post and shim.


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## rbertjr (Mar 5, 2017)

Have you tried attaching an old seat to it and trying to twist it out?  This has worked for me.


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## okozzy (Mar 5, 2017)

This should be a very interesting build, I will definitely follow it.

I like your thinking with that 18t child's chain ring. As far as the Brooks B72, you'll be surprised how comfortable it is, one can go on for hours with out it being an issue.

As far as handlebars, 7/8" moto crossbars are a great choice for aggressive riding.
https://www.btosports.com/p/renthal-offroad-handlebars

650b's should be very interesting, I have never seen that done on a Klunker build.

Klunker below is still going strong.
http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/newly-finished.19600/


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Mar 5, 2017)

That excelsior badge was used 37ish...I don't think it would have turned up on yours....maybe... but highly unlikely...you need the non footed version of this badge

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## Adamtinkerer (Mar 5, 2017)

keith kodish said:


> 1940 schwinn dx97e
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk



So Keith, would that make my frame a '40 too?  Looks like the same curve.


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## keith kodish (Mar 5, 2017)

40,41. Serial number helps,too.

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## 2jakes (Mar 5, 2017)

GTV said:


> Comments and suggestions are welcome. Especially on how do I get that damn old seat post out???




On old stubborn seat posts, I shoot some WD-40 down the tube and give it time to soak.
I then use vice-grips to twist it off.


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## GTV (Mar 5, 2017)

okozzy said:


> This should be a very interesting build, I will definitely follow it.
> 
> I like your thinking with that 18t child's chain ring. As far as the Brooks B72, you'll be surprised how comfortable it is, one can go on for hours with out it being an issue.
> 
> ...




Thanks! I recently built a '51 Schwinn Spitfire for a friend with 650B's and the same gearing (skip tooth). I also have an '82-ish Diamondback Ridge Runner that I converted to 650B's and single speed 36x21. Gearing feels spot on to me.

I'm certain the B72 is comfortable, but it would be too wide for a long day of hard pedaling. Can you say chafed thighs? I really would like the handlebars to be older, period correct era stuff. I really want this to look like it was built in the mid 70's. Other than the tires themselves, there's no reason why it couldn't have been.

Nice bike!



rbertjr said:


> Have you tried attaching an old seat to it and trying to twist it out?  This has worked for me.




It's stuck far beyond that.



Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> That excelsior badge was used 37ish...I don't think it would have turned up on yours....maybe... but highly unlikely...you need the non footed version of this badge
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk




Correct, the badge came off of a '37. If someone wants to trade me for the correct era badge I would be happy to. Otherwise I'll use it.


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## GTV (Mar 5, 2017)

2jakes said:


> On old stubborn seat posts, I shoot some WD-40 down the tube and give it time to soak.
> I then use vice-grips to twist it off.




Yep, tried that. I've been soaking it for over a month now, big vice grips, no dice.


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## 2jakes (Mar 5, 2017)

GTV said:


> Yep, tried that. I've been soaking it for over a month now, big vice grips, no dice.




Are you trying to save this old seat post?

I'm asking because, if you're not....

You need more force than vice grips.

Drill a hole into the seat post near the top.
Use a pin big enough to insert on the hole you created.
Take a hammer and strike underneath on the pin to
drive the seat post upwards and out.

On very stubborn seat posts, I have drilled holes on the old seat post
and then chipped away with a metal chisel that was small enough to
fit inside the seat post hole.

It was very time consuming, but I finally got the G-D thing out !
Good Luck!


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## keith kodish (Mar 5, 2017)

Ranger chainwheel 

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## GTV (Mar 5, 2017)

Nope, not saving it. I'll give that a shot, thanks!


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## GTV (Jul 17, 2017)

It's a rider... temporarily 

A month or so ago a friend put me in touch with a welder/fabricator/blacksmith selling a bunch of old bikes. I bought a bunch of his stuff, and he also agreed to help me remove my stuck seat post, which we achieved last Tuesday  He welded a makeshift slide hammer to the post, applied heat to the frame, and after a couple minutes of hammering out it came! Someone in the past used a short section of pipe fitting to take up the space from a seat post that was much too small for the Schwinn. 
Anyway, I was a happy guy. So that evening after work I put it together with some of the parts I'll be using, and others that I just had lying around. I wanted to have something to ride around Bellingham for SSUSA this past weekend. Goal accomplished  



 
Unfortunately it is the worst riding bike I've ever built. The Lepper saddle is miserable for pedaling. The handlebars will not stay tight in the stem (temporary parts anyway). But the worst is the Morrow coaster hub. Before I installed it I tested it and it felt like it had a huge gap between the drive and the brake, so I decided to rebuild. Everything looked great inside other than the ancient grease, and the rebuild went smoothly. Unfortunately the rebuild didn't help. It still has the massive gap between engaging the drive and the brake. It makes for a terrible ride. What is the solution? I'd love to keep the Morrow if possible...
Thanks for looking!


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## jimbo53 (Jul 19, 2017)

GTV said:


> It's a rider... temporarily
> 
> A month or so ago a friend put me in touch with a welder/fabricator/blacksmith selling a bunch of old bikes. I bought a bunch of his stuff, and he also agreed to help me remove my stuck seat post, which we achieved last Tuesday  He welded a makeshift slide hammer to the post, applied heat to the frame, and after a couple minutes of hammering out it came! Someone in the past used a short section of pipe fitting to take up the space from a seat post that was much too small for the Schwinn.
> Anyway, I was a happy guy. So that evening after work I put it together with some of the parts I'll be using, and others that I just had lying around. I wanted to have something to ride around Bellingham for SSUSA this past weekend. Goal accomplished
> ...



Morrow's have a bad rep for being next to impossible to adjust. Some people here say untrue, but my experience in frustration led to getting rid of the Morrow for a ND mod D. Your mileage (and frustration level) may vary...Good Luck!


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## GTV (Mar 17, 2018)

OK... Most of the components on the above picture were borrowed from a '51 Schwinn that I have since rebuilt and sold. I only rode this bike for one weekend and then tore it back down to rebuild and sell the '51. So this frame has been hanging out on my garage wall while I've slowly acquired parts for it and been trying to come up with a plan for the aesthetics (no conclusion there yet). I've found some 1/2" BMX-ish pedals, and a pre war locking truss rod fork that needs to have the steerer cut down to fit. I've got some old m/c bars and another Morrow hub for the rear, considering going high flange for the front. I'm on the lookout for a Brooks Conquest saddle. I'll be using Velocity Cliffhanger 650b hoops and I tested a 27.5"x2.25” tire in the fork and it fits with room to spare. The chain stays will require a bit of massaging though...


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## GTV (May 19, 2018)

Finally I have the build details sorted out in my noggin so the real build can begin. I bought a cheap 24x1 die and tap handle online and threaded the steerer down, offered it up to the frame, made a final measurement on where to cut and did so. I’m pretty stoked that this frame finally has a proper fork! If time permits today I’ll smoosh the bottoms of the truss rods down, trim them and add new holes. I’m waiting on a pair of old hoops from a friend in Belgium then this build will be off to the races.








Quick question: I would like to get new headset bearings as mine are a mix/match of parts. Which bearing number is it, where to find them? Much appreciated


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## GTV (May 23, 2018)

I’m in the need for some correct pre war Schwinn headset bearings. Can anyone steer  me in the right direction?


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