# AMF Firestone Speed Chief year?



## Woodtickgreg (Aug 14, 2019)

This is a friend of mines bike. He is having me go through it and tune it up, I'm actually going to do a light restore on it. He still rides it as it should be. I'm trying to date it without much luck, maybe the fine folks here can assist me with that. It's made by Cleveland welding company for AMF Firestone. It has 2 serial numbers, one on a tag on the rear dropout and one on the bottom bracket shell. It has peaked fenders and at one time it did have a fender mounted light that is now long gone.





























Missing the light.



Wedged seat post is a little different.



I have stripped it down for a good cleaning, inspection, and repack of all the bearings. The grease had turned to a hard waxy type substance, lol.



I'll touch up the paint on the frame without destroying the decals that I'll never be able to find. I'm thinking about replacing the spokes and painting the rims since they are starting to get pretty rusty. Some of the spokes turn and some dont, even after soaking with oil. The bike might look better with new spokes, but I dont want to kill the value of it in any way. What do you folks have to add about this fine old bike?


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## Oilit (Aug 15, 2019)

The serial number on the drop-out looks like it was added for or by the retailer. The serial number on the bottom bracket is from the factory. Here's a thread about dating CWC's: https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/cleveland-welding-s-n-project.2705/page-22  and going by Phil Marshall's serial number list, "G" makes it 1957. I'd rather have a few replaced spokes than a wobbly wheel, so go for it! That bike should clean up nice.


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## Oilit (Aug 15, 2019)

I notice yours has the "Masterweld - Cleveland Welding" decal on the seat tube. I have a 1957 Flying Falcon,  but mine has the "Masterweld - AMF Wheeled Goods" version. Maybe yours is from earlier in the year. AMF built a new factory in Little Rock in 1956, and once it was up and running, they started winding down production in Cleveland. I don't know for sure, but your decal makes me wonder if your bike was built in Cleveland. If it was, it was probably one of the last.


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## Woodtickgreg (Aug 15, 2019)

Thank you for the feedback guys! At least I can pass the Info on to my friend and let him know what year it is. Very cool.


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## Woodtickgreg (Aug 17, 2019)

Well I decided to paint the rims on the bike because they are getting pretty rusty. Insides of the rimsook pretty good, front wheel has rust it one spot from being stored with a flat tire. Front hub is German made. Rear hub is a new departure that I will take apart and clean to inspect for worn parts. New 14g spokes are on order. 



Front hub has a couple of bad rust spots on it but I'll clean it as best I can. Trying to keep it as original as possible.



Rear wheel will get stripped and then I'll paint the rims.


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## Oilit (Aug 17, 2019)

That hub looks dirty, but rust on chrome often looks worse than it is. With a good chrome polish, it may clean up better than you think.


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## Oilit (Aug 17, 2019)

Here's a picture of my rear fender, you can see where I started cleaning and part is like it was to start with. It won't be perfect but it'll look a whole lot better.


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## Woodtickgreg (Aug 17, 2019)

Back side of the hub in the picture is worse, chrome is gone in a couple of places. I'll clean it up best I can. That's a cool lookin bike @Oilit


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## skiptooth (Aug 17, 2019)

Greg, looks great! or. paint looks good . I use alum. foil fold it in a square rub the dull side on the chrome try it in a spot first see how I works for you ? I used it a lot on old cars too.


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## Oilit (Aug 19, 2019)

Woodtickgreg said:


> Back side of the hub in the picture is worse, chrome is gone in a couple of places. I'll clean it up best I can. That's a cool lookin bike @Oilit



Thank you sir! I'll probably post some more pictures after I get it looking a little better. And feel free to post some of the Firestone when it's done! It's always interesting to compare before and after.


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## Woodtickgreg (Aug 19, 2019)

Spokes came today!


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

Man I really got side tracked with home projects and the bike got put on the back burner. I did end up painting some of the frame but didnt strip it and remove the decals as they are no longer to be found. It looks much better.









The wheels where pretty bad and needed a refresh as well.



Here one is prepped for paint and one needs to be done yet.



The outdoor paint booth, lol.



Definitely looks better painted. Just single wall rims.


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

The new departure rear hub got disassembled and cleaned.


The brake disc pack.



A good soak in a bucket of wd40 to clean the parts.



Nice and clean. Brass brake disc showed very little wear. I did replace the internal spring.



The hub shell was very oxadised so it got a trip to the buffer. 



Looks much better. 



I packed this one with grease since this shell didn't have the oiling cap. It should be good for another 60 years.


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

The front hub had a really bad rust spot, the chrome was gone. So I replaced it with a schwinn hub. Both said made in Germany, probably by the same company. 







After I cleaned and repacked the hub the wheel was laced with new spokes. 



A new rim strip, tube, and cream colored tire. This should dress the old girl up and change the look. I actually think it looks more vintage. 







I made a hub shiner for it.


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

The front fork was cleaned and bearings repacked and installed into the frame. I didnt paint the fork so the stenciled fork dart would be preserved. 



I cleaned the crank, bearings, and sprocket. 



And installed it.


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

I laced the rear wheel up with new spokes. 



Both wheels had the same length spokes. It took me 2 attempts to figure out the rear used a 4 cross pattern. 



Then it got the same treatment of rim strip, tube and tire with a hub shiner. 



Blue shiner in the rear, green in the front. 



Tins will be next.


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

The tank looks good on the outside. 


But had 60+ years of rust on the inside. 



Wire wheels and scotch brite removed the rust. 



Then I brushed a coat of shellac on to seal it.



Worked on smoothing the dents out of the tank and front fender.


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

The front wheel, fender, and tank where installed. I found a front fender light to replace the one that was missing. Not an exact match but I think it looks nice. My friend doesn't know I found a light for it.


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## Oilit (Jun 2, 2020)

The frame does look better! I take it you just touched up the rough areas? It blends very well!


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2020)

Oilit said:


> The frame does look better! I take it you just touched up the rough areas? It blends very well!



Correct, paints not a perfect match but the decals are still there. Original paint has kind of yellowed.


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## partsguy (Jun 4, 2020)

Woodtickgreg said:


> The tank looks good on the outside. View attachment 1204470
> But had 60+ years of rust on the inside.
> View attachment 1204471
> Wire wheels and scotch brite removed the rust.
> ...




Shellac? I never thought to use that for sealing the inside of a tank. Does that insulate from electrical current? I am asking because I think my clear coating of tanks has impeded various grounds over time. None of my tank lights, horns, or radios work anymore.


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## partsguy (Jun 4, 2020)

Woodtickgreg said:


> Correct, paints not a perfect match but the decals are still there. Original paint has kind of yellowed.




I am re-assembling the white Corvette. Contemplating touch up but still undecided.


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## partsguy (Jun 4, 2020)

This will be so beautiful when finished. I cannot wait to see the results!


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## Woodtickgreg (Jun 4, 2020)

partsguy said:


> Shellac? I never thought to use that for sealing the inside of a tank. Does that insulate from electrical current? I am asking because I think my clear coating of tanks has impeded various grounds over time. None of my tank lights, horns, or radios work anymore.



It does insulate, I think that is what is used on electric motor windings. But it sticks to anything, great as a top coat over decals too. I repaint singer sewing machines, put new decals on them and then spray shellac over them to protect them. That's what the singer factory did when they where new. Only bad thing about shellac is that alcohol will dissolve it.


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## srfndoc (Jun 4, 2020)

Really nice work and the hub shiner's are a nice touch.


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## BradCon (Dec 19, 2020)

Thanks for sharing this restore process. I learned tons from this and as you can see I have my hands full, if I start on this one.
What was your method for cleaning and shining the 'green' painted pieces? Any advice on a seat restore? 
Can't wait to see the final pictures... 





My newest purchase...


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## Oilit (Dec 19, 2020)

BradCon said:


> Thanks for sharing this restore process. I learned tons from this and as you can see I have my hands full, if I start on this one.
> What was your method for cleaning and shining the 'green' painted pieces? Any advice on a seat restore?
> Can't wait to see the final pictures... View attachment 1322957
> 
> ...



Nice bike! Do you know who made it? Maybe Monark?


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## BradCon (Dec 19, 2020)

Oilit said:


> Nice bike! Do you know who made it? Maybe Monark?



Honestly I don’t know who made it. In the beginning of this post he says it’s an AMF. ‍♂️


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## falconer (Dec 19, 2020)

Too weird. I also have one, Monark built


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## falconer (Dec 19, 2020)

Brad, yours is Monark built


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## Oilit (Dec 19, 2020)

BradCon said:


> Honestly I don’t know who made it. In the beginning of this post he says it’s an AMF. ‍♂️



His bike is an AMF, but I think yours was built by Monark. Firestone was a tire company and they sold bikes through their tire stores but the bikes were built by other companies for Firestone. Goodrich did the same thing and I think Goodyear as well. The AMF is 1957 and is a middleweight (26 x 1.75 tires), yours may be older. It looks like there's enough clearance in the front fender that yours may have been a balloon tire bike (26 x 2.125) as well, but I'm not sure.


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## Oilit (Dec 19, 2020)

falconer said:


> Too weird. I also have one, Monark built
> 
> View attachment 1323140
> 
> ...



What year is yours? Did it originally have middleweight tires or balloon tires?


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## BradCon (Dec 19, 2020)

I’m going to post a request for info in the middleweight forum. Please join me in that post. I’m curious to know more about this bike. I suspected Monark, but I don’t know them yet. 
I would love to see more pictures of these bikes to help me get mine back in shape.


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## falconer (Dec 19, 2020)

I have not researched the year, but has middleweight tires. I cant find numbers on it!. no plate on bottom. Look more tomorrow


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## oldfart36 (Dec 21, 2020)

The Monark versions are earlier then the AMF. They are not M/W!


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## falconer (Dec 21, 2020)

Hey oldfart, sorry, had to say it. No offense, Im old too. Anyway just measured Across frame just under rim, below seat. My speed chief was 3 inches. Measured my Monark Rocket balloon with exact same frame, was 3 1/4 inches. I want to stuff balloon tires on Speed Chief, but still think its MW


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## Superman1984 (Mar 27, 2021)

falconer said:


> Hey oldfart, sorry, had to say it. No offense, Im old too. Anyway just measured Across frame just under rim, below seat. My speed chief was 3 inches. Measured my Monark Rocket balloon with exact same frame, was 3 1/4 inches. I want to stuff balloon tires on Speed Chief, but still think its MW



You can get clearance but it means cold setting the frame. It's not the axle area that needs it; it's the rear stays by the seat tube & the upper stays by the seat post. The M/W fenders aren't as flared / wide usually. The middle weight I am soon getting; a '64 Fire Bolt with the built in rack .... I intend to correct this Verrry carefully to run 2.125" Columbia Superb white walls on. I will be joining you guys but with the balloon tires I love. Worse case I have to bastardise it with 24" wheels & not use the tires I have & want initially. I do know I won't stress the welds & if that seems like the case will cut another frame to extend it as needed. Front fork will be a non Higgins beehive springer temporary for now 'cause I have an idea I am thinkin' hard on to remedy balloon tires in middle weights. Will test junk forks & post if it works out


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## falconer (Mar 27, 2021)

Since last time i posted here, i took my Speed Chief apart and went through it. I did manage to stuff balloon tires under the fenders but it was tough. The frame is ok but MW fenders real tight. I got them to fit but with little clearance. Did a little cleaning, straightening, servicing Will ride soon!!


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## Superman1984 (Mar 27, 2021)

falconer said:


> Since last time i posted here, i took my Speed Chief apart and went through it. I did manage to stuff balloon tires under the fenders but it was tough. The frame is ok but MW fenders real tight. I got them to fit but with little clearance. Did a little cleaning, straightening, servicing Will ride soon!!
> 
> View attachment 1380799
> 
> ...



Hell Yeahs! I intend to see how the ballooner fenders fit when I purchase my next MW. It's not an original build so I may try original fenders for Columbia, some Schwinn "duck tails" and maybe even my Monark Super Deeps. It has box store / walds on it but I think I can make it a little less close with some work. I don't think the frames are much different between the ballooner & middle weight by much more than 1/4" usually


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## Oilit (Mar 28, 2021)

falconer said:


> Since last time i posted here, i took my Speed Chief apart and went through it. I did manage to stuff balloon tires under the fenders but it was tough. The frame is ok but MW fenders real tight. I got them to fit but with little clearance. Did a little cleaning, straightening, servicing Will ride soon!!
> 
> View attachment 1380799
> 
> ...



Did you ever find the year? I think Huffy bought Monark at the end of 1957 (Thanks, @Adamtinkerer!) and this looks like it was before Huffy, so maybe 1955-57?


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## falconer (Mar 28, 2021)

I found no numbers. If there was supposed to be a plate under bottom bracket, its not there. Has to be mid 50s


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## Superman1984 (Mar 28, 2021)

falconer said:


> I found no numbers. If there was supposed to be a plate under bottom bracket, its not there. Has to be mid 50s



It'll be on the left rear drop out. Well everything else is.


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## falconer (Mar 28, 2021)

nothing on dropout


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## Superman1984 (Mar 28, 2021)

falconer said:


> nothing on dropout



Hmmm. I would agree with Oilit it's likely '55-57 ish. I don't quite know much past the early 50s ballooners


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