# 1936 Model C. Clunker



## Talon (Oct 14, 2017)

Well, I have been a long time lurker. So, I have decided to join. This will be my first post. So, I will tell a little something about myself.
 I raced BMX in 76-78. In 1981 I put together a KOS Cruiser. When I was riding on base. A guy stops me and asked if the bike I had was a mountain bike? It was a BMX Cruiser. So, fast forward to 2011. My kids are moving on now. So decide to build a couple bikes. It turned out nice. So I put it in a bike show. Just for fun. The judges said, we don't have a category for it. Its not a vintage, and the closest category is, is a Clunker. It was fun. So, I got into looking into this thing called Clunker/Klunker. I  began my quest. On and off  for the last two years, I started looking for that hard to find Union rear hub. I bought one, then then lost interest in the build and sold it. Almost a year later. I come across the guy I sold it to. I asked him what he did with it. He painted the face plate a purple color. But, he wasn't using it. I bought it back. And this started my obsession. Alan Bonds has a very good website. And I started the search for the rest of the parts. I have not completed my build. But, I can see the end is near. I have not seen anyone build a BF Goodrich.  And I do like the darts.  Now, I have to figure out how to place some pictures. To support this post.


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## old hotrod (Oct 14, 2017)

Cool bike, doesn't look like a "C" model but unimportant...spent a lot of time on Alan's site drooling at the bikes...so building one too...


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## frampton (Oct 14, 2017)

How did you get the Rapid Transit bars through the stem?


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## GTs58 (Oct 14, 2017)

That is one nice build. 



And welcome to the Cabe.


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## Talon (Oct 14, 2017)

old hotrod said:


> Cool bike, doesn't look like a "C" model but unimportant...spent a lot of time on Alan's site drooling at the bikes...so building one too...



Can you please explain? Why it may not be a Model C? I would like to know.


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## Talon (Oct 14, 2017)

frampton said:


> How did you get the Rapid Transit bars through the stem?



In the 70's. We had this problem. So what we did was. Take two common srewdrivers and stick them in the gap of the gooseneck and spread the opening just enough to slide the bar through. We are at the part that that is tricky. To close the gap, I used a.prybar called a lady finger. But you can use a  large phillips scewdriver to realigned the holes.


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## old hotrod (Oct 14, 2017)

There have been posts already covering the differences in detail...top tube on a c model is almost straight behind the head tube, b models have a larger opening for the tank and top tube is curved  as you have pictured. There is also a b model frame and fork project in the for sale section looks like yours 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Talon (Oct 14, 2017)

Because the bike isn't finished yet. I am waiting to install the head badge. It will be the last item to be installed..


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## Talon (Oct 14, 2017)

old hotrod said:


> There have been posts already covering the differences in detail...top tube on a c model is almost straight behind the head tube, b models have a larger opening for the tank and top tube is curved  as you have pictured. There is also a b model frame and fork project in the for sale section looks like yours
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



I see the difference now. I have tried to change the title. To "36 BF Goodrich Clunker" but it isn't happening.


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## Talon (Oct 16, 2017)

So, a little about the bike. As you probably noticed. It isn't a Model "C". But now thinking it is a BC117?  When I bought the frame off Craigslist. It was stripped of paint. And someone did some grinding on the seat post bar near the BB. So I didn't feel all that bad adding the derailer attachment tab. The rims are ukai 26x2.125. it was a faded blue. So I had them polished to remove the anodized color. The forks are a Colson. With a Schwinn script cantilever brakes. The seat of course is a Brooks B-72. Seat post clamp is Campy. The seat post is 13/17 solid aluminum rod. The handle bars are Als rapid transit. A nice looking gooseneck by Ashtabula. Okay, I put these cranks on for now. But, I have a Sugino super maxi. They look very similar to the TAs that the clunkers have. In fact Alan Bonds has a bike pictured with one on it. I am not going to say. But if you want to. It is on his Clunker website.


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## old hotrod (Oct 16, 2017)

Sounds like you are done but if you need other parts...see https://www.facebook.com/Mr.TickBicycleParts/
and the group   https://www.facebook.com/groups/Klunkerz/
both on facebook


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## Speed King (Oct 30, 2017)

Awesome build.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Nov 15, 2017)

very nice looking bike.


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## 1979-4ever (Nov 19, 2017)

Wow, love it. I have a similar frame, it has a BF goodrich badge and I believe it is a 1936. need to pull it out and do some comparisons to this one. Paint is amazing btw!


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## Talon (Dec 10, 2017)

Thank you all for the comments. Well, here is the update.
 So I put the cables on and replaced the cranks. I had to change out the brake leavers. The first ones didn't allow me adjust the cable tension. Last night spent a few hours on the front brakes. It is funny how something so small (as a washer) can turn into a complete rebuild.    
 I have a Suntour cyclone rear derailleur. It is missing the clamp bolt. I have gone to countless bike shops. And  I have been looking on ebay for this clamp bolt. I probably should have just purchased the complete derailleur, like I did today. An expensive bolt. 
 I was able to put the chain on and ride the bike for the first time. The rear brakes are not performing as well as I thought. They are not grabbing.
 Also, I put the badge in place to see if the small screws would secure the badge.  These small screws are not screwing into the hole. I am not sure if I have the proper size screws. I am waiting on the clamp bolt before I install the badge. But I might also need some new screws for the badge. It is taped on for the pictures.


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## Talon (Dec 10, 2017)

The missing cable bolt.


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## Talon (Dec 10, 2017)

Almost ready!


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## Talon (Dec 10, 2017)

The other side.


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## Talon (Dec 10, 2017)




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## GTs58 (Dec 10, 2017)

Excellent!


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## fat tire trader (Dec 10, 2017)

Talon said:


> I was able to put the chain on and ride the bike for the first time. The rear brakes are not performing as well as I thought. They are not grabbing.




You can improve the function of your rear brake by installing cable housing stops on the frame. By shortening the amount of  cable housing between the brake lever you will remove sponginess. It will also work better if you have a very stiff lever, Magura or Tomaselli.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 10, 2017)

Super sexy bike, man. Well done!


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## tDuctape (Dec 13, 2017)

Cool, finished this one a while ago. Opted to keep things looking, well, clunky during the restore.


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## fattyre (Dec 15, 2017)

Talon said:


> The rear brakes are not performing as well as I thought. They are not grabbing.




I'd give it a few rides and see if performance increases.  Brake shoes sometimes need a few rides or more before they get grabby.  Might also have oil residue that needs to wear away.


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## Talon (Dec 16, 2017)

tDuctape said:


> Cool, finished this one a while ago. Opted to keep things looking, well, clunky during the restore.
> 
> View attachment 724234



I wanted to buy a painted frame. But this frame that I bought was stripped. The the original paint, would have shown more character. And the type of life that it had. As you can see, yours has a story.  Nice build. Thank you for sharing.


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## Talon (Dec 16, 2017)

fattyre said:


> I'd give it a few rides and see if performance increases.  Brake shoes sometimes need a few rides or more before they get grabby.  Might also have oil residue that needs to wear away.



You might be right. I will give sometime to seat in.
When it was taken apart. I used "brake clean" to be sure there was no grease when I was assembling the brake.
I emailed someone that has a lot of experience with this brake. He responded, maybe I needed a Brake job. (More fabric on the shoes). When I was installing the cable. The actuating leaver on the hub, had a lot of travel before the brakes began grab. And I am beginning to think he is right. He also said to take the rim/hub to a motorcycle shop that works on the old drum brakes. And they might be able to help me.         Thank you for your help


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## Talon (Dec 16, 2017)

So I received my derailleur in the mail. I started to put the acorn nut on the bolt and found it was stripped. So, I wasn't very happy. But I understand  that it is used. And this kinda thing can happen. I went to the hardware store and bought a new acorn nut. It works well enough. I got to the bike and installed it. My bike is nearly complete. . I only rode the bike once. And it was in a one speed configuration. It rode nicely. But I have to do the final adjustments to get the real feel of the bike. And then install the B.F Goodrich badge.


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## Talon (Dec 26, 2017)

After being sick, and having family over for Christmas. I had a chance to ride the bike.
 I am surprised that the shifting systems work as well as they do. The alignment of the front crank (sprockets) with the derailleurs and the six speed freewheel. Went as well as it did. Soon, I will take it to the Tehachapi bike shop. The rear drum brake? It still isn't working as well as liked. But I am no rush. It will stop me on a bike ride. But, it won't, if I am going down a hill. I am looking for a motorcycle shop now. That can work with me.


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## frampton (Dec 28, 2017)

I have found that using STI derailleur cable housing improves braking power. The inner wires under the outer cover are linear instead of spiral wound like regular cable housing which compresses under load.


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## Mr.RED (Dec 28, 2017)

this is one of my favorite Klunkers ever great looking ride and job well done


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## Talon (Jan 12, 2018)

Talon said:


> I wanted to buy a painted frame. But this frame that I bought was stripped. The the original paint, would have shown more character. And the type of life that it had. As you can see, yours has a story.  Nice build. Thank you for sharing.





Talon said:


> I wanted to buy a painted frame. But this frame that I bought was stripped. The the original paint, would have shown more character. And the type of life that it had. As you can see, yours has a story.  Nice build. Thank you for sharing.



I looked far and wide for a front drum. I see that you found one. I also like your bag. Did you make it?


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## K-Love (Feb 1, 2018)

Beautiful work ! Been gathering some parts for a build myself. I’d be happy if it comes out half as good.


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## Talon (Feb 1, 2018)

K-Love said:


> Beautiful work ! Been gathering some parts for a build myself. I’d be happy if it comes out half as good.



It was quite a challenge. It took me 2 years. But after getting the frame. It took me seven months from then. I was waiting for the (Union) front drum brake. I gave up, then started looking for the Schwinn script Cantilever brakes. I had to make some compromises. And that was one. Good luck with your project.


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## gkeep (Feb 12, 2018)

Hats off to you! What a great build. Looks fast and rugged standing still...


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## SLM (Apr 7, 2018)

1938 World out for a ride today !


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## Talon (Apr 7, 2018)

SLM said:


> 1938 World out for a ride today !
> 
> View attachment 784080



Nice job on the bike, can you take a snapshot of your rear brake attachment bracket?


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## SLM (Apr 8, 2018)

Talon said:


> Nice job on the bike, can you take a snapshot of your rear brake attachment bracket?



Sure !  It's a cheap Chi-Lee brake Copy of MX1000 and the bracket is cobbled up for just get it on the road short term.   I plan to have a rear bracket welded on the frame and mount a Dia Comp MX1000.


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## SLM (Apr 8, 2018)

SLM said:


> Sure !  It's a cheap Chi-Lee brake Copy of MX1000 and the bracket is cobbled up for just get it on the road short term.   I plan to have a rear bracket welded on the frame and mount a Dia Comp MX1000.



Sometimes the bracket works to convert the rear brake but not on this frame. That bracket is a lot stiffer than the cobbled set up but at least I have a rear brake that works.


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## Talon (Apr 12, 2018)

Have you noticed your brake flexing or moving when applying the brake? I like the idea of it. Maybe on my next build.


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## SLM (Apr 12, 2018)

Talon said:


> Have you noticed your brake flexing or moving when applying the brake? I like the idea of it. Maybe on my next build.



The rear brake works pretty good and not a lot of flexing at all for normal riding/braking.   The goal was to make the bracket a short as possible and stiff as possible for a temporary install.  I problably will ride it until I really need to pull it and have a plate welded in.


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## Talon (Apr 18, 2018)

SLM said:


> The rear brake works pretty good and not a lot of flexing at all for normal riding/braking.   The goal was to make the bracket a short as possible and stiff as possible for a temporary install.  I problably will ride it until I really need to pull it and have a plate welded in.



Thanks for the picture. This is a good example of "KISS" Keep It Simple Stoopid.


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## bulldog1935 (Apr 24, 2018)

it looks like a lot of torsion on that old seat stay bridge.
It's not too tough to find braze-on canti bosses if you want to do a little frame work.
old
https://www.ebay.com/i/332172866542?chn=ps 
or new
https://framebuildersupply.com/collections/braze-ons

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-fixture.html


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## SLM (Apr 25, 2018)

bulldog1935 said:


> it looks like a lot of torsion on that old seat stay bridge.
> It's not too tough to find braze-on canti bosses if you want to do a little frame work.
> old
> https://www.ebay.com/i/332172866542?chn=ps
> ...



Yep ! I prefer MX 1000 brakes with a reinforced bridge.


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## Muleman121 (Aug 19, 2018)

What are the brackets that moumt the front brakes?  Very nice build!  Hope mine looks as nice as yours!


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## Talon (Aug 19, 2018)

Muleman121 said:


> What are the brackets that moumt the front brakes?  Very nice build!  Hope mine looks as nice as yours!



Schwinn had these brakes built with these mounting clamps. I found a few on eBay. Schwinn made brakes for the frame and for the forks. There is a difference in the shape of the clamps. So, look closely for the difference. When looking, they are called "Schwinn Script Caliper Brakes".


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## Igor (Sep 11, 2018)

That's a clunker ?


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## Talon (Sep 13, 2018)

Can you tell me, what your definition of a clunker is? so I can better explane what my definition is


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## Speed King (Sep 13, 2018)

Talon said:


> Can you tell me, what your definition of a clunker is? so I can better explane what my definition is




Check this- kind of get you a general idea. The term is used loosely in some circles but actually refers to a pretty specific style. At least now days.

http://www.clunkers.net/


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## Talon (Sep 13, 2018)

Speed King said:


> Check this- kind of get you a general idea. The term is used loosely in some circles but actually refers to a pretty specific style. At least now days.
> 
> http://www.clunkers.net/[/QUOTE
> Thanks, Speed King.


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## Brutuskend (Mar 10, 2019)

Great Klunker!


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## mymikesbikes (Mar 10, 2019)

Crazy beautiful bike. Looks like the ones Joe Breeze and the boys made when they started the birth of mountain bikes.


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## SJ_BIKER (Mar 11, 2019)

super cool!!


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## Talon (Apr 20, 2019)

I went on a ride this last weekend with the Circle City Ride. Here is the most recent picture. I did replace the cable straps about a year ago. But over all, nothing has changed. This picture was swiped from the post ride review. It was a pleasure to meet with other riders.


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## Pondo (Sep 6, 2020)

Gorgeous bike!!


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Sep 6, 2020)

very cool bike  !


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## Talon (Sep 9, 2020)

Thank you. This was a fun project, and is pleasure to ride. My friend Kevin McNeal. A pro BMX racer from the late 70's. Also enjoyed riding it.


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## Lonestar (Sep 11, 2020)

Stellar job! What a beauty!


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## birdzgarage (Sep 20, 2020)

Turned out very nice


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