# Year ID on Motorbike



## Dave Stromberger (Jul 1, 2014)

I'm not an expert on pre-war Schwinns, and maybe should claim embarrassing ignorance, so I'd like some advice as to what year my bike is. I've talked to Bob Usasi about it last year when I got the bike, and he said the serial number puts it in 1938. However, it has the low-mounted rear fender brace. Fenders appear to have been with the bike for many-many years, with original blue paint that matches the frame under the spray-bomb green. Badge is an ACE.

I added the tank and the brake lever, replacing the shorty lever that it had when I bought it. 

With the d-cell tray in the tank, what year does that suggest for the tank?  Does the tombstone on the fender, and the not very razor-ish razor stem indicate anything?

Thanks!


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## Xcelsior (Jul 1, 2014)

*Motorbike is*

1938 and the tank would be used 37 and 38.  The stem is correct for that period.  The fenders may not have been from that bike as the tombstone fender would have been used for a spring fork.  Or it is possible that the fork was changed,  however more motorbike models were standard truss fork equipped.  So I am guessing that the fenders were changed / added or at least the front was.


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## rollfaster (Jul 1, 2014)

*Whatever year it is....*

It sure is sweet. Nice find Dave.


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## Djshakes (Jul 1, 2014)

From my understanding the tank is a 36 to early 37.   

1935 had the clip for the big dry cell
36 to early 37 had the tray
37 and up had the cage


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## Xcelsior (Jul 1, 2014)

*1936 tank? Am I missing something here?*

1936 gilled tank? How interesting... I still say your tank is 37 to 38.  Definitely not later. I have had 37 and 38 tanks with either tray. Yes, yes I have.


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## buickmike (Jul 2, 2014)

Nice old bike - I have been looking for the rear fender many many years. This weekend will attempt to place 40-41 fender bought. off the bay. Have the drum brake-but lost back half of clamp
Are you leaving your bike as is or will you restore?

Sent from my Chaser using Tapatalk 2


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## Dave Stromberger (Jul 2, 2014)

Thanks for the info guys.

I'm tempted to locate a pre-war locking springer for the bike, in which case my front fender would be ok. I'm going to use this tank, even if the correct'ness of the d-cell battery tray is in question, simply because it's "close enough" in my opinion... and considering how hard these tanks are to find (and expensive!), I'll let that detail slide. Can I re-locate the lower rear fender brace to the correct '38 location, or is there a difference in the fender itself?

Buickmike... I'll be doing a full restoration.

Not sure what color I'll go with yet. What was available then? Blue, maroon, black... any others?


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## WES PINCHOT (Jul 2, 2014)

Bear in mind that the serial number (late '38)
just indicates the year the frame was made!

Also 1938 was a transition year and the horizontal
brace may have been started late in the year or
the bike may have been assembled in '39.

Or it may have come from Chicago Cycle with a
mix of parts from Schwinn.


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## GenuineRides (Jul 2, 2014)

*too hard to predict*

Wes, thanks for reminding everyone that manufacturing accumulates parts over a period of time before assembly, and then off to the production floor and eventually to the dealer for sale to the consumer.  Those parts can straggle along at the bottom of a gaylord bin and get mixed in production.  Too many people want definitive answers on dates, like a frame is welded, stamped, and painted on Dec. 30th 1937, assembled together with all its parts on December 31st and shipped, then on January 1st, 1938 they change over every single part to the new model year style, unrealistic to expect in those days of manufacturing.


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## Djshakes (Jul 2, 2014)

I've seen two 36 motorbike tanks with gills. Very rare. Probably Rangers as they got older frames.  Remember, the autocycle tanks were grilled in 36. Again, rare instance for a motorbike just like a long tray on a 38 is rare.  I have never seen one but that doesn't mean it didn't happen by any means.  I say 37 is the safest bet on tank. 

Dave,  some of those Z serial frames were funky.  They had a smaller rear triangle.  The fender size was similar to a 36 but had a tall tale.  Very weird transition type frame with 38 serials but earlier parts that were a blend of new and old.  Make sure you mock up everything before you paint.  I restored a whole bike once and went to assemble and rear fender didn't fit.  It blew my mind that they made two different 18 inch frames.  Had to hunt forever to find correct fender.  Almost had to mend a 36 and 38 together. The fender will be stamped with the number "5" or "7" above the tongue.  One represents application for a tall frame, the other for the weird 18 inch frame with smaller rear triangle.  Might be used on 16 inch frames also.  I am in Wisconsin but can check my notes when I get home for the number. Pray you have a regular 18 inch.


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## Freqman1 (Jul 3, 2014)

Djshakes said:


> ...  Make sure you mock up everything before you paint.  I restored a whole bike once and went to assemble and rear fender didn't fit.  Had to hunt forever to find correct fender.  Almost had to mend a 36 and 38 together.




Probably preaching to the choir for you guys (Dave/Tim) but invaluable advice for others doing a resto. Not only do I mock a bike up I put it together and ride it. I ride all of my bikes and just about every resto that I've bought I've had to go completely through and adjust and sort just to make road worthy. If you put it together and ride it before the resto you will find things like misaligned chain stays, fenders that don't fit exactly right or the chain rubbing the fender or guard. Fix all of this _before_ starting any work and you  will save yourself grief later. V/r Shawn


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