# Is this frame ready to prime?



## Buster1 (Jun 24, 2012)

Guys,

I spent some time today sanding my bead-blasted frame and got it looking pretty bare.  There are still some dots of light oxidization and a few nooks and crannies needing attention.  But I think I may be ready to prime.

For those that are experienced in painting and such...is this frame ready for primer?

Thanks.

~Buster


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## bricycle (Jun 24, 2012)

...gee, any more sanding -polishing and it would look like chrome.


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## chucksoldbikes (Jun 24, 2012)

*hello  down  by the  bottom berring  braket  wire  brush it off*

down   by  the  bottom    bottom  bracket   wire  brush it off  then it looks   good  i dont  go to all that trouble  i  wire   brush it off    i take a   3/8 drill  put a  2 inch wire  brush on    it  and    brush it off  might   take  two  brushes   before your  done  in about  an  hour  then i metal  ,prep      the  frame  wipe it   down good  with a  good clean    rag  the metal prep  gets off all the  grease or oil or anything like that  
 then give it  a   coat of  primer  i give my bikes 3   coats of  primer   useing  some 1000 sand papper on the   2  nd  coat    then give it the  3  rd  coat themn  3 coats of paint and   3  coats of   clear  coat and i use rattle can    krylon the best there  is 
 i painted my  black phantoms  with it  they look as  good as any

CHUCKSOLDBIKES


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## PhattCatBicycles (Jun 25, 2012)

Windex works great as a final wipe down before primer.  I use Rust-Oleum Sandable Primer.  Spray 2 coats then wetsand then spry one more coat and wetsand a final time with 1500 grit.  Seems to work well after trying almost everything else under the sun.  Oh Ya.  LET IT DRY!! Waiting for everything to dry in the hardest part of painting.  I have a 5 x 8 inclosed trailer that I put a small creramic heater into to kind of heat dry for 24 hrs. When I paint I let it set in the heated trailer for 2 or 3 days between coats.


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## abe lugo (Jun 25, 2012)

*rustoelum??*

dude find your local auto paint jobber and call and see if they sell nice primer in spray cans  SEM makes self ething primer, then use a light build up primer. If your going to use nice paint keep the system of paints the same. I would never use rustoleum if I knew I wanted to paint something with nice paint in the future, cause you'll have to come back to bare metal.


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## silvercreek (Jul 8, 2012)

I like to use mineral spirits for the final wipe-down before primer.


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## jerrykr (Jul 18, 2012)

*bare metal parts*

For any bare metal parts including frames, I like to hang them, and wash them down with spray can brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or B-12.  
It flashes off very quickly.  Be careful, all of these are highly flammable.

If the humidity is high, pay attention to possible condensation as these solvents can make the metal cold briefly.  
You may have to wait for the moisture to dry.


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## bricycle (Jul 18, 2012)

Is that a Westfield Elgin?


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## MagicRat (Jul 18, 2012)

It looks nice but youre only halfway there...

Now you have to prime and fine sand between coats to fill in the divots.

And your paint has to be the same brand as your primer.

There is a real quick and easier way of doing it,but some j.o. on here blasted me for posting it.

Fug him I'll post it again.


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## MagicRat (Jul 18, 2012)

Get sandable primer spray bombs from your local automotive store.

And Spot Putty glazing compound to fill in the big divots.

I've done it too many times with Perfect Results!


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## bricycle (Jul 18, 2012)

MagicRat said:


> Get sandable primer spray bombs from your local automotive store.
> 
> And Spot Putty glazing compound to fill in the big divots.
> 
> I've done it too many times with Perfect Results!




..amen to that MR  (even tho ya pis_ed on my post)......


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## Buster1 (Jul 18, 2012)

Thanks guys, and yes it is a '39 (I believe) Westfield made Elgin.

I talked with my paint shop and they think the steel is clean enough.  Small amounts of light color is okay, no active rust.  I sanded it with a power tool, then used an abrasive pad for an hour...nothing was coming off.  Yep, I clean all my parts while wearing latex gloves and wipe them down with a 'mineral spirits-like' product from the paint shop that removes all greas and finger prints...everything.

I am using an etch primer, followed by 3 coats of auto grade primer (wet sanding in between), and the paint will also be auto grade and "matched" to the primer to prevent any bubbling or future issues.  I have done my homework with this painting stuff!

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?29900-What-Color-Should-I-paint-my-Bike

Check out this thread and you can see more of my progress and some of the primed parts!


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