# Stuck seat post on bicycle built for two



## michael1062 (Jul 17, 2011)

hi all,
new to the site son just bought this bike and the front seat post seems to be frozen in the frame any ideas on how to loosen.

thanks


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## bikesnbuses (Jul 17, 2011)

A trick I learned is using an old school style BMX stem like below,it doesnt have to be pretty..tighten it on the seatpost and use it like wrench(That wont slip off)..also heat and lube too and some taps with a hammer..Hope this helps


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## how (Jul 19, 2011)

*You will collaps the post..*

If the post is really in there, you will collaps the post when trying to twist it out,
with the previous suggestion.

You have to get a solid rod that will fit down in seat post after you cut the top off.
Then you can use the previous suggestion to twist the post out.

I once bought a Schwinn that somebody previously collapsed the post by trying to twist it out without filling it with a rod. I spent 10 minutes a day for about thirty days cutting the post out by puting a hacksaw blade down the tube and actually cutting it in halfthen tapping it out and pulling it out in 2 peices. A real pain. lol


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## OldRider (Jul 19, 2011)

If seatposts won't come out sometimes they will go down if enough force is applied. I've sent a few seatposts to visit with the  crank at the bottom  Good luck with it!


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## Larmo63 (Jul 19, 2011)

I usually call Superman and he pulls them out with his teeth.


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## Craiggo (Jul 19, 2011)

i had that problem once and all i did was put the seatpost tube upside down in a vice and i used the bike frame as alot of leverage.  the vice might scratch up the post, so if you plan on saving the post put a leather glove or just a rag to prevent scratching


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## 2jakes (Jul 24, 2011)

*stuck post ?*

Use WD-40 with built in red straw.

Spray only where the post is connected .

Wait ! Until the lubricant seeps down.

Might be overnight…give it time !

Near the top of the post I clamped some old vice grips, I used an old piece of leather
to prevent scratching !

Using a hammer or hard rubber mallet, I tapped firmly the side of the grip up.

You might not see much difference, but apply a little more lubricant and give it time.

Once you notice that it is sliding up even if it's just a hair keep applying and wait.

I was able to remove a very old post this way…once I saw that it was moving I just

applied a little more & with my hands I massaged it out. I didn't think that I was ever
going to remove it…but with patience , I did ! Good Luck !


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## Rear Facing Drop Out (Jul 24, 2011)

*The way to get a REALY stuck seat post out....*

I have tried all those ways and sometimes they work but when they dont here is a way that works 99% of the time...
I have the luxury of having a welder along with about any tool I want but maybe you do too.
I weld the end of an old slide hammer to the top of the seat post and start slide hammering it out....you will find that the post is bend and wedged in the frame. 
You could use a vise grip welded to a slide hammer too... this works great on stem bolts too... if you were close I would have ya bring it by and pull it out in a few minutes..


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## Keith (Jul 24, 2011)

*One word PB Blaster*

I agree with the logic . and advice  in the prior threads, but I would go with a product called PB Blaster,,,,I use to be a WD man but since I found out about this stuff on a antique Tractor forum I belong to. I once had a 4 cylinder tractor engine that had sat in the field with the engine head off, filled with dirt, rust and rain water for years. I just soaked the heck outta the cylinders for about a weak with pb Blaster ...... after a bout a week I was able to turn it over with a breaker bar, then rebuild.
Just make sure to get the Blaster, between the post and the frame. Just give it a couple days to wrk and don't be afraid to re apply daily, You can get it at auto suplys, Walmart etc.

Keith


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## Rear Facing Drop Out (Jul 24, 2011)

*PB is better then WD40 for sure BUT*

When those bent posts are in there good the only way is STRAIGHT out.... key is NOT to twist off the exposed post.. By the way those posts are like a dime a dozen so no worries of wrecking them..


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## PCHiggin (Jul 25, 2011)

Rear Facing Drop Out said:


> I have tried all those ways and sometimes they work but when they dont here is a way that works 99% of the time...
> I have the luxury of having a welder along with about any tool I want but maybe you do too.
> I weld the end of an old slide hammer to the top of the seat post and start slide hammering it out....you will find that the post is bend and wedged in the frame.
> You could use a vise grip welded to a slide hammer too... this works great on stem bolts too... if you were close I would have ya bring it by and pull it out in a few minutes..




That's the best way.I've never done it but my friend has. We tried all the other ways except heating the tube.He had that thing out in a few minutes with a slide hammer.

Pat


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## Keith (Jul 26, 2011)

*Figtin the same problem now*

As you all know I'm Parting out a n X-53... yesterday I was fighting with the handle bar stem... PB'd all joints and bolts  a few days ago and hit em again each day. Well sold the forks and handle bar stem. Bolt came loose right away but stem wouldn't move. so I soaked it again' and slept  on it. Went out there in the morn still wouldnt move so I put a rag on the top bolt and a 2x4 for  protection And wacked it with a mallet and walla it was loose as me..... got the front end a part. now I've moved onto the troxel seat that is very nice but unsold  now that stem is sticky but straight and moving upward very slowly I guessing  3 days to get it apart. Patience, PB, and elbow grease. I am amazed how nice the parts are.

Keith    PS. PB will eat a foam cup........Don't ask?


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