# Help with ID of Schwinn



## Tankbike59 (Jul 24, 2021)

Hello, picked this up the other day for $50. It's pretty weathered and the seat has been recovered with vinyl. Have not been able to find a serial number, seller stated it was a 1957. Any ideas on year or model? The red fork and fender support have me confused but I'm no expert. The paint is pretty shot with surface rust and flaking so I'm thinking of an amatuer paint job and a mechanical restoration. Probably not worth putting too much money into. What is the best way to strip rust and paint from frame. Would a wire wheel be a safe way to go or should I send it out for sand blasting? Thanks in advance.


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## bloo (Jul 24, 2021)

Post a picture of the serial number. Look on the left rear dropout by the rear axle. The spring fork may be a later addition. The front fender is on backwards.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 24, 2021)

Tankbike59 said:


> Hello, picked this up the other day for $50. It's pretty weathered and the seat has been recovered with vinyl. Have not been able to find a serial number, seller stated it was a 1957. Any ideas on year or model? The red fork and fender support have me confused but I'm no expert. The paint is pretty shot with surface rust and flaking so I'm thinking of an amatuer paint job and a mechanical restoration. Probably not worth putting too much money into. What is the best way to strip rust and paint from frame. Would a wire wheel be a safe way to go or should I send it out for sand blasting? Thanks in advance.
> View attachment 1451318



I'd bead blast it or black beauty if you just want the quickest method to stripping/frame prep. Oxalic Acid aka wood bleach will dissolve a lot of the rust if you can make a tub to soak it in. If you'd like to save the original paint ? I can't tell from the pic. I wouldn't stress what's there personally. Has a Schwinn style springer .... may be original but hard to say without more pics in detail


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## GTs58 (Jul 24, 2021)

Looking at some of the parts it may have been a Phantom. Front fender isn't original. Serial would be on the left rear drop out above the axle nut or underneath the crank.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 24, 2021)

GTs58 said:


> Looking at some of the parts it may have been a Phantom. Front fender isn't original. Serial would be on the left rear drop out above the axle nut or underneath the crank.



Is it jus' me or does the front fender look like it's on backwards?


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## Tankbike59 (Jul 24, 2021)

I did not even notice the front fender was backwards. Now I can see it clearly. It looks like the ser. # is T4857 0r maybe T4357. Hard to read. Paint is probably not worth saving, not much of it left. I realize regionally prices might vary, but how much about would media blasting a frame and fork  cost?


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## Tankbike59 (Jul 24, 2021)

Seems like I'm missing a number on the end of that ser.#. Would it most likely be a 1955 model?


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Jul 24, 2021)

I am a big fan of wire wheeling these bike frames since once you have the equipment it is basically free.  I used a 4" hand held grinder with a cup style wire wheel a few times in the past, but now I have a big buffer that takes an 8" wire wheel and use that. if I was not so cheap I'd pay to have them blasted which is always the best way to go the way I see it.

these bikes do have some value especially with the springer. you could spend a bunch getting a tank and proper fenders or just take the fenders off, clean what is there up and spray bomb it and have much less into it than what it would be worth when the time comes to sell it. 

if you want to get all fancy you can get whatever paint you want in a can at many automotive body supply stores if you don't have the equipment.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 24, 2021)

Tankbike59 said:


> Seems like I'm missing a number on the end of that ser.#. Would it most likely be a 1955 model?



There's a # under the rack support. Idk about pricing I bought a harbor freight 50 lb blaster & have a 1958 US Military compressor that will easily maintain 90 psi & 250+ lbs of air. I wouldn't think a bike should be much to blast though .... maybe $100 or less 🤔


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## all riders (Jul 24, 2021)

a braided wire "cup brush" on an angle grinder would work great for your intent---But know what you're doing, or don't do it. some of the tight corners and edges can make the brush(and grinder) jump--if a cup brush gets ahold of clothing it will run up and down you and mess you up. That said I"ve stripped numerous frames this way and find it fast and cheap. There will be some areas, unreachable, that will have to be handled by other means--- hand sanding et.c. Again,  you would want the "braided" or "knotted" cup brush.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Jul 24, 2021)

^^^ had a big sized grinder grab my T shirt  and wound the shirt up in the grinder and gave myself a cool scar on my chest once. my hand was wrapped up in the trigger and it was lucky I was using a Harbor Freight grinder that belonged to the guy I was working for, my Milwaukee would not have been stopped by the t shirt. could have been seriously killed.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 24, 2021)

49autocycledeluxe said:


> ^^^ had a big sized grinder grab my T shirt  and wound the shirt up in the grinder and gave myself a cool scar on my chest once. my hand was wrapped up in the trigger and it was lucky I was using a Harbor Freight grinder that belonged to the guy I was working for, my Milwaukee would not have been stopped by the t shirt. could have been seriously killed.



Yeah & as much as I ignore my own advice 🙄😒 Wear Eye Protection❗ 

Be prepared to be impaled by the wires coming out of the cup. I have blood polka dots from time to time 🙄 



Bare metal wire wheel '51 Columbia frame, '53 Monark fenders, JC Higgins truss fork, and eventually will be a cool custom build


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## bloo (Jul 24, 2021)

Looks like 1955, according to the serial charts here on the CABE.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think 1955 was the first year you could not get a 52 tooth chainwheel anymore, sticking you with the 46 tooth clover seen here, even on Phantoms.

The spring fork pivots changed at some point. 1956? 1957? Anyway this has the earlier style, as I think it would have in 1955.

It has a deluxe headset of the type used just after the war. I don't know when they changed to the type seen on 60s Schwinns, but it is a good bet they were still using the type seen here in 55. Anyone know for sure?


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## Tankbike59 (Jul 24, 2021)

Thanks, I might try the wire cup brush and see how that goes. I  always prefer to save the old paint especially because I have not found a good way to reproduce any graphics or designs on the chainguards, racks, tanks, etc, but there are no designs on this bike and the paint is shot anyway. Might be good experience to repaint this one, Will the full ser.# number be able to tell me if this started out as a phantom or something else?


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## GTs58 (Jul 24, 2021)

Tankbike59 said:


> Thanks, I might try the wire cup brush and see how that goes. I  always prefer to save the old paint especially because I have not found a good way to reproduce any graphics or designs on the chainguards, racks, tanks, etc, but there are no designs on this bike and the paint is shot anyway. Might be good experience to repaint this one, Will the full ser.# number be able to tell me if this started out as a phantom or something else?




The best a serial can do is give you a good idea of when the bike was built. After looking at your frame I personally would blast it and I wouldn't waste my time going with anything else. As far as I know the only year the Phantom didn't have the 52 tooth ring was 1959 but many mid/late 50's pieces have been equipped with the clover ring and most likely it was a dealers change when ordering from the factory or swapping them out before delivery. The 1955 model Phantoms introduced the new springer with the pivot bolt going thru the fork legs and the locking forks were no longer a standard item on the Phantoms. There was the option for ordering the locking springer on these later Phantoms and those had the pivot bolts behind the fork legs. Your springer doesn't look like it has the lock. Just my thoughts, the front rim patina is much better than the rear rim and the front fender is not a Phantom fender and maybe not even a Schwinn piece. The thought of a front end crash comes to mind and those parts are replacements. Another thought. Is the serial letter actually a T or could it be an F? Looks like the spacing between the letters vertical strike is too far back for a T and would be more inline if the letter was an F.


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## Rivnut (Jul 24, 2021)

49autocycledeluxe said:


> ^^^..... Milwaukee would not have been stopped by the t shirt. could have been seriously killed.



As opposed to being non-seriously killed?


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## bloo (Jul 24, 2021)

As Edmund Gwenn allegedly said, "Death is easy, comedy is hard".


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## Goldenrod (Jul 24, 2021)

Rivnut said:


> As opposed to being non-seriously killed?




Non-seriously killed would be smothered in the mellons of an Italian actress.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 25, 2021)




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## Tankbike59 (Jul 25, 2021)

Yes the front wheel appears to have been painted over the chrome as it is peeling off a bit, It does have a fork lock more on the inside than on the side, but no key, When i dissemble it maybe I can get a better read on the ser. number.


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## WES PINCHOT (Jul 25, 2021)

Tankbike59 said:


> I did not even notice the front fender was backwards. Now I can see it clearly. It looks like the ser. # is T4857 0r maybe T4357. Hard to read. Paint is probably not worth saving, not much of it left. I realize regionally prices might vary, but how much about would media blasting a frame and fork  cost?View attachment 1451342View attachment 1451346View attachment 1451347



LOOKS LIKE A LOCKING SPRING FORK!


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## HEMI426 (Jul 25, 2021)

I stripped this whole car with a cup wire wheel on a 15K RPM grinder, the old lacquer black paint smelled terrible and the wires were stuck in my shirt and my beard, I wore eye protection, The shinny metal looked so nice I just cleared over the dare metal.  When that grinder found the lead on the body seams it slowed down alot. I sprayed furniture clear lacquer on it, it looked great.


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## Rivnut (Jul 25, 2021)

Goldenrod said:


> Non-seriously killed would be smothered in the mellons of an Italian actress.



Killed?  More like died and gone to heaven you mean!  😇😇😇


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## Tankbike59 (Jul 25, 2021)

Wow that car is sweet! Maybe there is hope for my bike yet. I noticed today that my bikes original grips are red under the electrical tape someone wrapped them in. Could this be a clue to what model this bike might have been along with the red forks and rack support? I think I might repaint it in the same colors.


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## GTs58 (Jul 25, 2021)

The red paint on the fork legs and carrier struts was over painted by someone.


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## Tankbike59 (Jul 25, 2021)

OK thanks. Kind of like it though.


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## lordscool (Jul 29, 2021)

Use non toxic paint stripper. Much less work and safer, Also will do a better job. Brush it on cover with plastic and next day take a scotch brite pad and paint will peel right off.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 29, 2021)

lordscool said:


> Use non toxic paint stripper. Much less work and safer, Also will do a better job. Brush it on cover with plastic and next day take a scotch brite pad and paint will peel right off.



Spray it with Goof Off Professional Graffiti Remover. Ain't Nobody wanna wait overnight & still have to scotch brite that mess 😝

That Goof Off remover is the closest thing I can find next to air craft stripper that hasn't been chemically weakened down like lemon scented oven cleaner which will do the same job basically in a trash bag Maybe


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## lordscool (Jul 29, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> Spray it with Goof Off Professional Graffiti Remover. Ain't Nobody wanna wait overnight & still have to scotch brite that mess 😝
> 
> That Goof Off remover is the closest thing I can find next to air craft stripper that hasn't been chemically weakened down like lemon scented oven cleaner which will do the same job basically in a trash bag Maybe



You still gotta clean it off. Stripper is much easier to work with and will remove original paint as well to bare metal. They all take time to work goof off won't strip it in 15 min either and twice the price.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 29, 2021)

lordscool said:


> You still gotta clean it off. Stripper is much easier to work with and will remove original paint as well to bare metal. They all take time to work goof off won't strip it in 15 min either and twice the price.



Goof Off Graffiti remover hasn't been chemically weakened so it will still chem.burn your skin vs BS like Citri Strip that basically will just give your original paint a nice barely thinned down scent. I'll bet you 15 mins of Goof Off Graffiti remover will do a lot more damage to both an over painted frame & original paint than any eco friendly "safe" strippers would begin to do. Hell double it 30 mins & If I'm wrong then I'll admit it. I'd rather spend
$9-12  for a tall can vs having to BS recoat, scrub, and wait to find out I wasted time + money. Not arguing and saying you're wrong or anything but I know what I have used, experience, and my personal preferences.

Oh and as far as cleaning it off; water hose with a multiple adjustable pressure sprayer; typically any garden hose end 🤔


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## lordscool (Jul 29, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> Goof Off Graffiti remover hasn't been chemically weakened so it will still chem.burn your skin vs BS like Citri Strip that basically will just give your original paint a nice barely thinned down scent. I'll bet you 15 mins of Goof Off Graffiti remover will do a lot more damage to both an over painted frame & original paint than any eco friendly "safe" strippers would begin to do. Hell double it 30 mins & If I'm wrong then I'll admit it. I'd rather spend
> $9-12  for a tall can vs having to BS recoat, scrub, and wait to find out I wasted time + money. Not arguing and saying you're wrong or anything but I know what I have used, experience, and my personal preferences.



I've been a painter for 35 years and have used everything imaginable. I said paint stripper not citrastrip. It dosn't have to burn your skin to work anymore. Go to any paint store its way less work in the end. Naked Gun paint stripper will do it just as fast but there are less harsh that do the same, with less effects to your health, I had to quit painting because of stuff like that. but the longer it sits the better it will be in the end. You can't rush paint. Also it won't leave residue that will cause paint failure later with adhesion.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 29, 2021)

lordscool said:


> I've been a painter for 35 years and have used everything imaginable. I said paint stripper not citrastrip. It dosn't have to burn your skin to work anymore. Go to any paint store its way less work in the end. Naked Gun paint stripper will do it just as fast but there are less harsh that do the same, with less effects to your health, I had to quit painting because of stuff like that. but the longer it sits the better it will be in the end. You can't rush paint. Also it won't leave residue that will cause paint failure later with adhesion.



I'm just going to say You win👍🏻
When it comes to stripping bikes I'll stick to my wire wheels. I have No Problem getting into the nooks crannies & crevices🤷‍♂️


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## lordscool (Jul 29, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> I'm just going to say You win👍🏻
> When it comes to stripping bikes I'll stick to my wire wheels. I have No Problem getting into the nooks crannies & crevices🤷‍♂️



No biggie. Just trying to help a bit. I used all that stuff on a daily basis. As long as it works in the end i guess its all good.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 29, 2021)

lordscool said:


> No biggie. Just trying to help a bit. I used all that stuff on a daily basis. As long as it works in the end i guess its all good.



Ok. Yep & I guess how fast someone wants to get there is up to them & what's readily available to them/their budgets


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## Shawn Michael (Jul 29, 2021)

I think all the above methods are great, and I would recommend what ever one fits your budget and time. You did great at only spending $50 on the bike. That leaves plenty of room for upgrades.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 29, 2021)

Shawn Michael said:


> I think all the above methods are great, and I would recommend what ever one fits your budget and time. You did great at only spending $50 on the bike. That leaves plenty of room for upgrades.



Agreed on both statements. I see potential whether goin' back towards original amateur restore or even a cool custom. Waiting to see where this canti Schwinn ends up


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## Tankbike59 (Aug 1, 2021)

Thanks for all the advice, now just need time to start disassembling it. Just want to make it better than it is but will certainly be an amatuer restoration. Maybe I will look for a tank for it, repaint and mechanical refurbishment.


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