# Oxalic Acid Bath Help



## Bike from the Dead

Hi guys,

So, I’d been doing some research on oxalic acid baths for removing rust and shining up paint on old bikes, and I decided that I wanted to give it a try on some of my bike projects. I think I know what supplies I need, and I think I understand the process, but I’ve found that there’s a bit of conflicting information on how to do an oxalic acid bath.

Here’s what I’ve basically learned so far:

*Supplies I’ll want to do an oxalic acid bath:*
1. Oxalic acid/wood bleach (I got 2 12oz tubs from Ace Hardware)

2. 1-2 kiddie pools big enough to fit my bike parts in

3. Gloves

4. Simple Green or vinegar to remove any grease and dirt from parts before the bath

5. Tooth brushes to remove yellow film from parts during bath

6. Soap and water to wash off parts after bath (Would Dawn work?)

7. Air compressor for drying

8. Rust inhibitor to spray inside of frame and forks after bath

9. Wax to protect paint/chrome/steel from rusting again (I’ve heard a few folks recommend Johnson’s paste wax, but I don’t know of any stores that carry it. Would automotive wax work?)

10. Scotch Brite no-scratch pads to wipe off parts after bath

11. Micro-fiber cloths for waxing

*The process as I understand it:*
1. Disassemble bike

2. Clean off any dirt and grease from any parts using either Simple Green or vinegar, depending on whether or not the part is chrome?

3. Once all parts are cleaned, place in kiddie pool full of warm water. I’ll be doing this when the weather is warm and sunny out, so I take it that I’ll just have to let the water warm up on its own.

4. Mix at least a couple tablespoons of oxalic acid into water. It’s okay if the solution is weak, as more OA can be added if needed.

5. According to some, this is when you pull out a 6-pack of beer and start drinking. Given that I don’t drink, I’ll substitute this step with lemonade or something.

6. After a few hours, a yellow film should develop on the submerged parts. Remove yellow film with toothbrush while sitting in the solution.

7. After all rust and yellow film appears to have been removed, gently wash off parts with soap, water and pads. (Seriously though, what kind of soap do I use?)

8. Dry parts with air compressor and a micro-fiber cloth

9. Spray inside of frame and forks with rust inhibitor. Wipe it off if it gets on the outside of the frame and forks. Allow it to dry.

10. Gently wax parts with micro-fiber cloth and reassemble.

11. Take your shiny rust-free bike for a ride!

Okay, now that that’s out of the way, here’s where I get a little lost:

1. So it’s fine for the wheels to be put in the oxalic acid bath whether they’re chrome or painted, but the spokes, spoke nipples, hubs and axles are not okay to place in the bath?

2. Is it okay to dump the used solution into my lawn, or not? Some say it’s fine if I pour some additional water over the spot, others say don’t do it at all but don’t say how to dispose of it, some even just dump it without doing anything else. So, which is it?

3. What kind of soap do I use to wash off the bike parts after I take them out of the bath? I know some stuff doesn’t react well with the oxalic acid, but how do I know which kind of soap to use?

4. Does it matter what kind of wax I use to preserve the finish from rusting further, and how would you apply it? I don’t have a buffing tool, but I have micro-fiber cloths. What sort of wax would you recommend that I could find at Walmart?

I had originally given up on doing an oxalic acid bath on my bikes when I decided that I wouldn’t risk my health or others’ health by getting the few remaining supplies I needed after the coronavirus was officially declared a pandemic in the U.S. However, since my parents still plan on going to Walmart and a few other places at this time, and had offered to get the last few supplies I need to finish some of my bikes, I’m going to go ahead and move forward with this. I’m still worried about getting sick, so I’m staying home regardless, but just because I’m staying home doesn’t mean I can’t go do some work on my bikes out in the yard.

So, what do you guys think? Do I pretty much have the whole list of supplies and steps down right, or is there something I missed? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Also, here are my sources for my earlier research, in case you’re interested:
https://vintageamericanbicycles.com/index.php/2019/07/25/saving-a-rust-bucket/
https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/oxalic-acid-on-paint.53809/
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/oxalic-acid-bath-before-and-afters.64373/
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/how-to-clean-rust-off-the-bike.14561/
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/m...cid-to-water-for-a-bicycle-frame-bath.143259/
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/another-oxalic-acid-bath.120503/
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/oxalic-acid-bathing.119924/
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/n...due-from-chrome-after-oxalic-acid-bath.85055/


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## Lamont

Good for you tackling this challenge with the Downtime !

1.      (If / presuming  disassembling hubs and axles etc before immersing ?  )   Often chome on hub shells is very well preseved once your degrease.

2.      

3.       Some folks recommend a Baking Soda/water  solution, followed by the a Mild dish soap.  They key is to nuetralize the Ph level promptly.

4.        Applying Wax by hand is fine.   Also, and if you have a variable speed cordless hand drill , you can consider buying inexpensive buffer attachment that is great for tubes and detail areas , importantly allows you to stay clear of any remaining decals of hand painted striping areas.    (use lower speed drill setting )
             order two :  one for polish , one for wax      

                                      $4 each ( shipping currently slow)
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-x-2-inch-cylinder-buff-65000.html

           For metal and chrome areas:   you can also dw 40 sprayed as soon metals as dry ,  to protect as you work. have to work deliberately/ promptly ReRust happens quickly.    later you can wipe of the dw 40 and apply NevrDull,  metal polish to chrome (found in walmart in a silver tin) 


           Wax type:   everyone has their favorites , and they all seem to be good, but i use Maquires Fine Cut Cleaning Polish ( fine cut, or Ultimate  not coarse) , followed by car wax. 
                                  ( pricey stuff / will cut into your stimulus check) I also like Turtle wax premium polishing compound (at walmart )
    I experimented with auto Heavy duty Rubbing Compound:  I dont recommend ;  too coarse for many paint types and conditions ....  can burn right through the paint , at least that happened to me, others may have different results/better technique)


  I appreciate how complete and thoughtful your post is , and looking forward to others    comments / experiences/ recommendations .    good luck !


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## New Mexico Brant

Be careful with both red and blue paint as they can discolor (change color).


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## rennfaron

Bike from the Dead said:


> 1. So it’s fine for the wheels to be put in the oxalic acid bath whether they’re chrome or painted, but the spokes, spoke nipples, hubs and axles are not okay to place in the bath?
> 
> 2. Is it okay to dump the used solution into my lawn, or not? Some say it’s fine if I pour some additional water over the spot, others say don’t do it at all but don’t say how to dispose of it, some even just dump it without doing anything else. So, which is it?
> 
> 3. What kind of soap do I use to wash off the bike parts after I take them out of the bath? I know some stuff doesn’t react well with the oxalic acid, but how do I know which kind of soap to use?
> 
> 4. Does it matter what kind of wax I use to preserve the finish from rusting further, and how would you apply it? I don’t have a buffing tool, but I have micro-fiber cloths. What sort of wax would you recommend that I could find at Walmart?



I just put the chrome wheels in, grease, rust and dirt intact. I primarily did this to limit the amount of pre-scrubbing with the dirt and grease (limit amount of abrasion). The OA seemed to break down the grease. It does seem true that the grease does prevent some of the OA effectiveness below the area. What I did was let the wheel soak and came back a little later with a soft toothbrush and knocked the grease and dirt off. It came off without any force at all and just washed away. Then left the wheel back in there. The toothbrush worked well around all the spoke nipples and the grease + dirt came off easy. I also find that the OA dissolves a lot of the rust but in areas where there is more build up the toothbrush helps to knock off some layers of it so the OA can get the rest. As it sits in the bath I just go over it with a toothbrush as needed. You want to limit the amount of work you do to the surface. I would work the frame the same way. Tedious, yes.

I dumped the solution in a grass free area. I read that the OA originally was used to clean wood and is environmentally safe (ish?). I still dump baking soda in the mix, stir it up and then dump it. I then fill up some fresh water and mix in baking soda and let the part sit for a bit and then dump that. I don't spend much time on the neutralizing process as the acid is really mild.

I don't use soap. The OA seems to get everything off, so no reason to use soap. Maybe others found a need. (if there is enough grime left on the surface maybe some soap will help get this layer off).

Then once all that is done, dry it all off. For the paint, the OA bath is just to remove the rust and other stuff on the surface. That doesn't mean your paint comes out looking great. Like @Lamont said, you may need to work the paint and apply a fine cut polish to get the paint back. Then follow with a good car wax. I used mequiars ultimate liquid wax.


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## vincev

I would use 1 tablespoon per gallon.


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## GTs58

Johnson's Paste Wax is $8 at Lowes. If you use a car wax, paste or liquid that is white or light colored there is a good chance after waxing the white residue will stick in the small chips and cracks and it looks like crap on a Black or dark colored bike. Actually it looks like crap on any color. I believe this is why some say they use Johnsons. A good Carnauba wax is what I use. 
The water/acid ratio is also something that everyone differs on. I like more OA in the mix reducing the soak time. Why do a weak mix and soak for up to 24 hours as the weak mix loses it's potency?


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## New Mexico Brant

I use a high concentration but only leave the parts in for 30 minutes to an hour usually (warm water works best).  During the soak I physically brush or wipe the parts about every 10 minutes to aid the action.  It is my preference to pull parts before all the rust is gone; they look more realistic that way.  There are many people here that leave parts in too long and they get a certain dull/dead look to them.


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## saladshooter

This is the best advice. Leave a little rust. If not the results are totally unnatural and look "off". Don't just drop the parts in and come back in the morning. Keep an active eye on the progress.


New Mexico Brant said:


> I use a high concentration but only leave the parts in for 30 minutes to an hour usually (warm water works best).  During the soak I physically brush or wipe the parts about every 10 minutes to aid the action.  It is my preference to pull parts before all the rust is gone; they look more realistic that way.  There are many people here that leave parts in too long and they get a certain dull/dead look to them.


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## Rivnut

Buying Wood Bleach is waaaaay more expensive than buying a 5 lb bag off Ebay.  Wood bleach is about $7-$8  for 12 oz.  A 5 lb bag (80 oz.) on Ebay is less than $20.   It's not real scientific.  Mix up a batch, throw in your parts, let them soak for a while, then rinse them off.  Once the rust is off the part is good for a long time. But, I only use it on chrome; haven't has real good luck on painted surfaces.  Either the original paint is good or the parts get stripped and repainted.


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## Bike from the Dead

Lamont said:


> Good for you tackling this challenge with the Downtime !
> 
> 1.      (If / presuming  disassembling hubs and axles etc before immersing ?  )   Often chome on hub shells is very well preseved once your degrease.
> 
> 2.
> 
> 3.       Some folks recommend a Baking Soda/water  solution, followed by the a Mild dish soap.  They key is to nuetralize the Ph level promptly.
> 
> 4.        Applying Wax by hand is fine.   Also, and if you have a variable speed cordless hand drill , you can consider buying inexpensive buffer attachment that is great for tubes and detail areas , importantly allows you to stay clear of any remaining decals of hand painted striping areas.    (use lower speed drill setting )
> order two :  one for polish , one for wax
> 
> $4 each ( shipping currently slow)
> https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-x-2-inch-cylinder-buff-65000.html
> 
> For metal and chrome areas:   you can also dw 40 sprayed as soon metals as dry ,  to protect as you work. have to work deliberately/ promptly ReRust happens quickly.    later you can wipe of the dw 40 and apply NevrDull,  metal polish to chrome (found in walmart in a silver tin)
> 
> 
> Wax type:   everyone has their favorites , and they all seem to be good, but i use Maquires Fine Cut Cleaning Polish ( fine cut, or Ultimate  not coarse) , followed by car wax.
> ( pricey stuff / will cut into your stimulus check) I also like Turtle wax premium polishing compound (at walmart )
> I experimented with auto Heavy duty Rubbing Compound:  I dont recommend ;  too coarse for many paint types and conditions ....  can burn right through the paint , at least that happened to me, others may have different results/better technique)
> 
> 
> I appreciate how complete and thoughtful your post is , and looking forward to others    comments / experiences/ recommendations .    good luck !





New Mexico Brant said:


> Be careful with both red and blue paint as they can discolor (change color).





rennfaron said:


> I just put the chrome wheels in, grease, rust and dirt intact. I primarily did this to limit the amount of pre-scrubbing with the dirt and grease (limit amount of abrasion). The OA seemed to break down the grease. It does seem true that the grease does prevent some of the OA effectiveness below the area. What I did was let the wheel soak and came back a little later with a soft toothbrush and knocked the grease and dirt off. It came off without any force at all and just washed away. Then left the wheel back in there. The toothbrush worked well around all the spoke nipples and the grease + dirt came off easy. I also find that the OA dissolves a lot of the rust but in areas where there is more build up the toothbrush helps to knock off some layers of it so the OA can get the rest. As it sits in the bath I just go over it with a toothbrush as needed. You want to limit the amount of work you do to the surface. I would work the frame the same way. Tedious, yes.
> 
> I dumped the solution in a grass free area. I read that the OA originally was used to clean wood and is environmentally safe (ish?). I still dump baking soda in the mix, stir it up and then dump it. I then fill up some fresh water and mix in baking soda and let the part sit for a bit and then dump that. I don't spend much time on the neutralizing process as the acid is really mild.
> 
> I don't use soap. The OA seems to get everything off, so no reason to use soap. Maybe others found a need. (if there is enough grime left on the surface maybe some soap will help get this layer off).
> 
> Then once all that is done, dry it all off. For the paint, the OA bath is just to remove the rust and other stuff on the surface. That doesn't mean your paint comes out looking great. Like @Lamont said, you may need to work the paint and apply a fine cut polish to get the paint back. Then follow with a good car wax. I used mequiars ultimate liquid wax.





vincev said:


> I would use 1 tablespoon per gallon.





GTs58 said:


> Johnson's Paste Wax is $8 at Lowes. If you use a car wax, paste or liquid that is white or light colored there is a good chance after waxing the white residue will stick in the small chips and cracks and it looks like crap on a Black or dark colored bike. Actually it looks like crap on any color. I believe this is why some say they use Johnsons. A good Carnauba wax is what I use.
> The water/acid ratio is also something that everyone differs on. I like more OA in the mix reducing the soak time. Why do a weak mix and soak for up to 24 hours as the weak mix loses it's potency?





New Mexico Brant said:


> I use a high concentration but only leave the parts in for 30 minutes to an hour usually (warm water works best).  During the soak I physically brush or wipe the parts about every 10 minutes to aid the action.  It is my preference to pull parts before all the rust is gone; they look more realistic that way.  There are many people here that leave parts in too long and they get a certain dull/dead look to them.





saladshooter said:


> This is the best advice. Leave a little rust. If not the results are totally unnatural and look "off". Don't just drop the parts in and come back in the morning. Keep an active eye on the progress.





Rivnut said:


> Buying Wood Bleach is waaaaay more expensive than buying a 5 lb bag off Ebay.  Wood bleach is about $7-$8  for 12 oz.  A 5 lb bag (80 oz.) on Ebay is less than $20.   It's not real scientific.  Mix up a batch, throw in your parts, let them soak for a while, then rinse them off.  Once the rust is off the part is good for a long time. But, I only use it on chrome; haven't has real good luck on painted surfaces.  Either the original paint is good or the parts get stripped and repainted.



Wow! Thanks for all the tips and advice guys! I've got just a few more questions and comments before I get started, so I hope it's okay that I reply to all of you at once, rather than separately. Also, I should’ve mentioned that I’m fairly young and relatively new to the hobby, so I apologize if my questions/comments sound a bit elementary.

1. Ok, so on the oxalic acid bath itself, it seems that everyone has their own method on how to get the best results. With that being said, it looks like I’ll just have to experiment to find what method works best for me. I’ll update this post with my own method of doing an OA bath for each of the bikes I plan to try this on.

 2. The main thing I’m getting lost on is what I do after the OA bath. I have no experience polishing/buffing paint, and from what I’ve heard it’s possible to actually destroy the paint if done improperly. The closest experience I’ve got is just using Maguire’s (sometimes waterless) wash & wax on my car with sponges and microfiber cloths. I want the paint to look right, but I’m afraid of messing up. Is there a “buffing/polishing paint for dummies” guide to restoring the finish on original bike paint? What would be the simplest and safest way for a newbie to bring the shine back to his bike?


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## saladshooter

Do you have a picture of what you are working on? Different bikes need different attention.


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## Bike from the Dead

saladshooter said:


> Do you have a picture of what you are working on? Different bikes need different attention.



Yeah, give me a few minutes.


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## Bike from the Dead

My Nana's 1965 Schwinn Hollywood is the bike I'd really like to try the oxalic acid bath on. It's a fully-functional bike, but I wanted to clean it up for her and replace the dry-rotted tires. I also have a special set of accessories I want to install on it as a nice surprise! I'm just concerned that the OA bath might mess up the pink paint....



This Western Flyer Sonic Flyer probably just needs a wash and wax more than anything, but the wheels are super rusty. It does have some rust on the painted parts that I'd like to tone down if I can, but if blue paint can get damaged by oxalic acid, then I might just skip on the OA bath.



My AMF-built Western Flyer Sonic Flyer is the bike I'd really like to shine back up if I can. I tried some rubbing compound on it, but it only did so much. I'm just afraid that the OA bath would do more harm than good to the paint. It doesn't look bad, but I know it could look so much better.


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## volksboy57

yeah, i wouldnt use it on that pink chainguard at all. The writing on those guards is like chalk, and just wipes off if not careful. I am sure that white paint will come out looking great. I have used CLR on a white bike, and it turned out great.


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## Bike from the Dead

volksboy57 said:


> yeah, i wouldnt use it on that pink chainguard at all. The writing on those guards is like chalk, and just wipes off if not careful. I am sure that white paint will come out looking great. I have used CLR on a white bike, and it turned out great.



Yeah, I've already learned how easy it is to wipe off the graphics on the Schwinn chain guards... Do you think the OA bath would mess up the pink stripes and other details, though? Have you ever used Metal Rescue? Do you think that could work on the chain guard?


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## RustoLiam

Older thread I know, but just sayin this is gold thread and thanks yall for putting this up here for posterity / noobers like me 👍


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## Lamont

Rusto .... concur ... bikefromthedead did a phenomenal job of searching older posts and , pulling all together.

then we got the some additional  insights from really experienced guys , like I wish learned the easier way...   about “ chualk like  “  paints and graphics ive melted. 

Several bike types I’ve done , graphics / paint   melt  like chalk ( even from mild degreasers)   : one that comes to mind is Checkerboard pugeot u08s have that paint / graphic weakness , but their are numerous and in the case of schwinns the underlying paint is incredibly durable in your era and forward , just not the graphics noted above .

Hope we keep alive this thread with experiences with OA bath and keep learning  more from old hands


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## Bike from the Dead

RustoLiam said:


> Older thread I know, but just sayin this is gold thread and thanks yall for putting this up here for posterity / noobers like me 👍



Thanks RustoLiam! Glad to hear!


Lamont said:


> Rusto .... concur ... bikefromthedead did a phenomenal job of searching older posts and , pulling all together.
> 
> then we got the some additional  insights from really experienced guys , like I wish learned the easier way...   about “ chualk like  “  paints and graphics ive melted.
> 
> Several bike types I’ve done , graphics / paint   melt  like chalk ( even from mild degreasers)   : one that comes to mind is Checkerboard pugeot u08s have that paint / graphic weakness , but their are numerous and in the case of schwinns the underlying paint is incredibly durable in your era and forward , just not the graphics noted above .
> 
> Hope we keep alive this thread with experiences with OA bath and keep learning  more from old hands



Thank you Lamont! I'll admit, I still have yet to try an OA bath on any of my bikes so far, but hopefully all the information I found and all the insight the more experienced guys shared will be helpful not just for me, but for everyone wanting to learn how to do an oxalic acid bath. 

Thanks to folks like you, older threads like this one will continue to be active. Thanks for taking the time to check it out and leaving a comment!


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## Lamont

Bike from the Dead said:


> Thanks RustoLiam! Glad to hear!
> 
> Thank you Lamont! I'll admit, I still have yet to try an OA bath on any of my bikes so far, but hopefully all the information I found and all the insight the more experienced guys shared will be helpful not just for me, but for everyone wanting to learn how to do an oxalic acid bath.
> 
> Thanks to folks like you, older threads like this one will continue to be active. Thanks for taking the time to check it out and leaving a comment!





Nothing wrong with taking time before diving in on bikes you care about...  

Reference made to the “new to me “solution by guzzieworks : how to clean spokes : 


Handy container for wheel soak : the water heater drain pan : great solution for OA as well









						guzziworksman
					






					thecabe.com


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## Boris

Great thread!


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## vincev

I would be more precise on your mixture. I use a heaping tablespoon per gallon of water.


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## Bike from the Dead

vincev said:


> I would be more precise on your mixture. I use a heaping tablespoon per gallon of water.



About how long do you let parts soak in the solution, with that mixture in mind?


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## vincev

Bike from the Dead said:


> About how long do you let parts soak in the solution, with that mixture in mind?



i pick a hot day .kiddie pool and use hot water.I check periodically .Usually about 8 hours.Will not hurt anything to pour into ground.I was hoping it would kill some weeds in the back of my property but it didnt phase them.lol


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## Gimletbikes

Welp. I just used all this advice. Very helpful. Parts are soaking now. I am experimenting on a bike that I don't care about as much so I can learn without as much at stake.


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## Rivnut

vincev said:


> i pick a hot day .kiddie pool and use hot water.I check periodically .Usually about 8 hours.Will not hurt anything to pour into ground.I was hoping it would kill some weeds in the back of my property but it didnt phase
> does oxalic acid do to plants?








Oxalic acid and oxalates are produced and present in plants in different amounts. Insoluble calcium oxalate plays a key role in regulating calcium concentration, which is important in the functioning of guard cells. Oxalates *provide tolerance to aluminium toxicity to plants growing in acid soils*.


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## Gimletbikes

Wow, 4 hours was pretty effective at 1 heaping tablespoon per gallon. I see what you mean by the chalkiness of the paint after the soak. The parts I soaked are dark blue metallic, ca. mid '80s. The rust & top filmy layer was easily removed with a plastic bristle brush. 000 steel wool seems to remove the thin, non-uniform chalky layer. I noticed that within an hour the exposed steel areas were re-rusting again. Rubbing on a thin layer of WD-40 seems to help with that until i can paste wax everything. Cool process. I dumped in a couple cups of baking soda after the soak and it fizzed like crazy.


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## SirMike1983

The choice of whether to use Oxalic Acid is a cost/benefit process. It will work well with some projects, and not so well for others. It is good to get a little experience with it before tackling a high-dollar project.

Advantages:

Allows you to reach rusted areas without spending time scrubbing with a wire brush. You soak and periodically check while working on something else.
It's relatively cheap - you can buy the crystals at a hardware store or online, then dilute as needed.
You need to be cautious with it, but it's not overly hazardous like MEK, Xylene, Paint Stripper, etc.
It allows a very detailed level of rust removal for when you want to get all the little pits down to metal.
It performs quite well on chrome plated parts.
It's safe with at least some paints (but not with those that use iron oxide as a pigment additive)
Cheaper than Evaporust in larger quantities.
Can double as a wood bleach in higher concentrations if you need to do such.
Can use water temp to control speed of the reaction (tip: get a nice, hot summer day and leave it in the sun to heat up if you want to speed the reaction up)
Water-based cleaned up, maybe with some baking soda - no special chemicals needed to post-treat.

Disadvantages:

Should not be used with certain paints, especially those that use iron oxide as a pigment (turns the paint pink or fades it).
May damage certain decals/transfers.
Does not always leave a consistent condition (i.e., you'll have bare metal spots combined with aged paint around it, so looks like it was certainly treated with something when you're done). One some projects, you may want to mechanically remove rust, work paint, and polish to achieve a more consistent look.
Long-term effects on paint with an aluminum base/content unknown still.
Will pull up big areas of paint/plating if rust is starting underneath - you could end up in for much more loss than you expect.
Can leave a chalky film, or even worse, a hard yellow crust that needs to be manually removed.
Removes cad plating and other types of the "dark grey" type surface plating
You should neutralize/rinse parts after they are done soaking, which can be hard if it is inside a frame, handlebar or similar.
It is very harsh on your hands if you get it on your hands and leave it on - will dry them right out.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I just did an Oxy bath on two bikes I knew were not going to come back. both were candy red over silver. a Schwinn Hollywood and a "Foremost" Huffy? from JC Penny. I bought the tiny tub of wood beach, didn't know how big my pool was so I just dumped the whole thing in there.

Huffy was solid rust from one end to the other. the bath removed most of the red paint leaving the silver base. the white part of the frame came out white as expected.  there is NO RUST left at all. even inside the tubes. I could give it a light sanding and paint it as it sits.

the Schwinn paint faired much better on the frame, but the fenders and guard much of the red came off. both of these bikes were under a tarp on a covered patio for 30 years. they were covered with dirt probably from the huge dogs that live there too. dirt and moisture do strange things to paint and there were many many spots that were bare metal after.

before all these parts were useless rusty junk, now they at least can be repainted and used again.

no pics since I am at work.

going to do a Schwinn B-6 soon, so i figured I'd do a practice run on some bikes that needed painting even after rust removal.


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## Kevinkay

WOW, I am a believer! 
I was skeptical and thought the inside of my fenders were impossible......

How much rust can the same bath water work for before you need to change/refresh it?
Can you over soak chrome? (i left mine overnight).


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Kevinkay said:


> WOW, I am a believer!
> I was skeptical and thought the inside of my fenders were impossible......
> 
> How much rust can the same bath water work for before you need to change/refresh it?
> Can you over soak chrome? (i left mine overnight).
> 
> View attachment 1746704
> 
> View attachment 1746705
> 
> View attachment 1746706



I use it until it stops working. A chemical reaction depends on the amount of ingredients (including rust) added to the solution.

I have not had any negatives reusing unless it stops working. Reuse until this happens.


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## SirMike1983

The bath can be used until it turns a yellow color. It gradually loses potency (clear to cloudy off-white to yellow) and has to be replaced.

You can indeed over soak chrome, the telltale sign being a dulled finish with yellow build up here and there. You can over strengthen the bath as well, the tell tale sign being a yellow crust forming on the surface of parts. You want to balance the strength of the mixture with the duration. Chrome is more forgiving than screwing up with paint or decals (it can turn destructive with certain paints and decals).

Overnight would be a pretty aggressive treatment with a normal bath, but if you made yours kind of weak, the longer soak was OK. The parts should be rinsed clean in cold water after the soak to prevent a yellow crust from forming.

You'll need to protect the fender wells before final assembly of the bike. Bare fender wells are notorious for rusting again if the bike is ridden much.


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Perhaps I am not overdoing my mixture but I have left chrome for 2-3 days in the bath and it comes out as good as I could hope for considering its condition before I started.
Any residue I have had would clean off with a light WD-40 or similar chemical streel wool rub and actually looks better yet to my 62 year old welders eyes.
you can also use baking soda/water mjx to neutralize acid bath but do not overdo it.
I concur on the inner fender rust, clear coat it or wax the crap out of it. If you wax that is not permanent.


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## Kevinkay

Whats the consensus on best wax?
I started off using Glass Wax (because thats what I used on my bike when I was a kid) but after looking at my car in the rain after about 2 months and water is still beading I am going to use the same Meguiars ceramic I used on the car - directions say can be used on chrome.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I have always used Meguaires products. you can't go wrong there.


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## Rivnut

The OA solution works much better the warmer the water.  Fenders come clean fairly easily.  On the inside, I use Eastwood Companies Diamond Clear for bare metals.  For smaller parts, I picked up an old crock pot at the local Good Will.  Turn it on low, it doesn’t take long.


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