# Applying decals to new paint



## atencioee (Jul 20, 2019)

I'm looking for some guidance on applying decals. I just painted one of my bikes and it's about ready for decals. One guy told me before he applies the decal to a specific area on the frame or chainguard, he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area and allows it to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that? Would you recommend that I do that with a bike that has just been painted?


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## bikecrazy (Jul 20, 2019)

The clear coat technique you described has me scratching my head. I know that if you put decals on a Matt or flat finish, clearing before application will prevent decal slivering or lifting. My humble advise is to let the paint fully dry. Dip the decal in warm water for only a few seconds and let sit until it easily slides off the backing. Once positioned correctly, gently remove excess water and let dry for 24 hours. Opps forgot to mention that you will probably have to work out some air bubbles when first setting the decal. This can be done by gently using a paper towel or in some cases a credit card. Remember be gentle. Good luck!


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## atencioee (Jul 20, 2019)

@bikecrazy, so with your advise you would not spray a light touch of clear 24 hours prior to decal installation?


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## GTs58 (Jul 20, 2019)

You will totally mess up your paint job by spraying a spot of clear coat on it for a decal. So the answer is definitely a no. If the decals are a good quality and fresh there really shouldn't be a problem. One of the biggest mistakes when installing decals is over soaking it.


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## spoker (Jul 20, 2019)

use solviset decal setter,hobby guys been doin it 4 years


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## SJ_BIKER (Jul 27, 2019)

Clean hands extra good to prevent oil from fingers to permanently leave your finger prints on the under side of the decal...been there...sucks


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## Ernbar (Jul 27, 2019)

I’ve been a model builder for over 50 years and proper decal application is a very important step in scale modeling. In order not to have any slivering under the clear carrier film the paint has to be VERY glossy. If the decal is applied over a less than a glossy finish (flat, semi gloss) chances are that slivering will appear . I always polish flat finishes to smooth out the surface then apply a clear gloss coat as decal application prep. If your paint finish is glossy then just apply the decal and blot out any air bubbles carefully working from the center of the decal out to the edges. I like using a damp paper towel to smooth out and dry the area. Let it dry overnight and it should look painted on.

Solvaset was mentioned and is the best decal setting solution I have ever used. The stuff will melt the decal film right into every crevice making it looked painted on. This is another tool I have been using in model building since the early 1970s. I don’t think Solvaset will be necessary for your particular application since I doubt you will have to apply the decals over complex surface  areas on your bicycle.
Like SJBiker suggested, make sure you wash your hands before handling the decals to avoid leaving fingerprints from skin oils.


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## vincev (Jul 29, 2019)

Dont spray your paint job.Spray a few coats of clear enamel on the decals ESPECIALLY if they are old,to prevent them from crackling up.Trim the decal as close as you can to the edges and apply


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## Archie Sturmer (Jul 29, 2019)

atencioee said:


> Has anyone tried that? Would you recommend that



This is a new thread, in addition to the old thread, that was expanded upon, about the same time.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/tips-on-applying-waterslide-decals.123386/#post-1049819
I recall that some decal instructions suggest that paint be allowed to fully cure, and referred to weeks rather than hours or days.
Why is that?  We know how newly painted items smell like paint, that may be because they are still giving off fumes of a continuing chemical reaction, perhaps underneath the top film (amine layer?) of the paint; this out-gassing might cause bubbles to form?
Maybe that other guy was clear-coating just to eliminate a uneven finish, so that the decal would lay flat.


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## THE STIG (Jul 29, 2019)

Archie Sturmer said:


> This is a new thread, in addition to the old thread, that was expanded upon, about the same time.
> https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/tips-on-applying-waterslide-decals.123386/#post-1049819
> I recall that some decal instructions suggest that paint be allowed to fully cure, and referred to weeks rather than hours or days.
> Why is that?  We know how newly painted items smell like paint, that may be because they are still giving off fumes of a continuing chemical reaction, perhaps underneath the top film (amine layer?) of the paint; this out-gassing might cause bubbles to form?
> Maybe that other guy was clear-coating just to eliminate a uneven finish, so that the decal would lay flat.




Correctamundo


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## atencioee (Jul 29, 2019)

Archie Sturmer said:


> This is a new thread, in addition to the old thread, that was expanded upon, about the same time.
> https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/tips-on-applying-waterslide-decals.123386/#post-1049819
> I recall that some decal instructions suggest that paint be allowed to fully cure, and referred to weeks rather than hours or days.
> Why is that?  We know how newly painted items smell like paint, that may be because they are still giving off fumes of a continuing chemical reaction, perhaps underneath the top film (amine layer?) of the paint; this out-gassing might cause bubbles to form?
> Maybe that other guy was clear-coating just to eliminate a uneven finish, so that the decal would lay flat.




No, it wasn't a matter of him spraying clear to eliminate an uneven finish nor paint having time to cure. He allows the paint to cure. When he applies decals, he just happens to always spray a very light touch of clear and gives it a day before applying tge decal. I just wondered if that is something anyone else has done.


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## THE STIG (Jul 29, 2019)

atencioee said:


> I just wondered if that is something anyone else has done.




did you not read post #4... you "liked" it


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## atencioee (Jul 29, 2019)

THE STIG said:


> did you not read post #4... you "liked" it




Dude, if you see I liked it, than I read it. I just simply asked if anyone else does do that bc the guy I'm referring to does it all the time with succes. And yes, I did pose the question on two threads...I see that bothers you so don't read or respond.


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## THE STIG (Jul 29, 2019)

atencioee said:


> .I see that bothers you so don't read or respond.




your close, the only thing that bothers me is stupid people ......  good day


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## PlasticNerd (Jul 29, 2019)

I use these, they work excellent! And as stated above , don’t over soak your decals


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## Brutuskend (Aug 3, 2019)

spoker said:


> use solviset decal setter,hobby guys been doin it 4 years



Yup. I got some at the local hobby shop. Makes a HUGE difference. Also good for removing decals.

Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XvErDb6X1BDVE


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## Ernbar (Aug 3, 2019)

Brutuskend said:


> Yup. I got some at the local hobby shop. Makes a HUGE difference. Also good for removing decals.
> 
> Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XvErDb6X1BDVE




The Set and Sol are way weak and does not work as good as Solvaset. It takes multiple Set and  Sol applications while Solvaset will do it the first time.


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## Brutuskend (Aug 3, 2019)

Ernbar said:


> The Set and Sol are way weak and does not work as good as Solvaset. It takes multiple Set and  Sol applications while Solvaset will do it the first time.



Good 2 know.

Solvaset Decal Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OS3ZX8O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKErDb3XC2XVW


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## PlasticNerd (Aug 4, 2019)

PlasticNerd said:


> I use these, they work excellent! And as stated above , don’t over soak your decals



I thought the pic was added, here’s what I use and works great! G.


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