# Rear Hub Ball Bearing Specific



## isofast (Dec 1, 2012)

Hi I am new to the bicycle scene so excuse me if I am not "all knowing".
First of all my 1954 Black Phantom rear wheel is true as true so rule that out.
My rear wheel has a bad wobble and I think there is a ball bearing missing or badly worn out.
I want to ride this bike bad and the rear wheel wobbles a bit to much. I looked on my own but could not
find answers to the following.

  1.)  Does any one have an exploded view of the Phantom hub/bearing set up?
  2.)  Can anyone tell me how many ball bearings a rear wheel hub set up has?
  3.)  Do the loose ball bearings measure 3/16?
  4.)  Does the grab part of the lock washer face the nut or the frame dropout?


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## Buster1 (Dec 1, 2012)

Is the wobble in the rim, or are you sure it's in the hub and therefore the whole wheel?

I've seen a few wobbly hubs before and sometimes it's simply due to a loose pre-load. Tighten up the outer nuts on the hub (not the axle nuts) until they are tight and the wheel won't spin, then back them each off a 1/4 turn or so and see what that gives you.

You are basically adjusting the "tension" or friction where the bearings ride on the cones/races.


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## jpromo (Dec 1, 2012)

First, lift the rear wheel off the ground, grab it and try to slide it side to side. If there is play here, that should be your wobble; remove the wheel and tighten the lock nuts on both sides, but don't overtighten.

Your '54 Phantom is likely a New Departure model D. They went out of business in '53-54 but had plenty of leftover so I'd imagine your bike is equipped with this. It's a good idea to go through a hub when you get an old bike anyway as it probably hasn't seen fresh grease in 40+ years if ever. These old hubs used caged bearings, not loose, and I rarely have any issues with these, just clearing out the old grease and regreasing. There are many rebuild guides for this hub as it was very common. Pretty simple, as long as you make a mental note as you take it apart how it went together. There is a stack of brake clutches that should be cleaned and restacked as they were removed with OIL between each one. No grease on brake discs. Grease all bearings, a little inside hub shell, hub driver gears and everywhere but the brake discs.

Lock washer faces into the frame. The teeth grab it and prevent your wheel from pitching to one side. Good luck! And welcome.

Here's an exploded view:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3494/4560232301_a4caa9e5b6_b.jpg


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## wtjohnson12 (Dec 1, 2012)

*home loans Texas*

Small parts for bicycle hubs from Harris Cyclery. We carry grade 25 bearing balls in the popular bicycle sizes.Grade 25 is the Most rear hubs (9 x 2) We will eventually be adding specific size/model information to this page at a later date.


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## rhenning (Dec 1, 2012)

Must be the weekend again the spammers are back.  Go away wtjohnson12.  Roger


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## isofast (Dec 1, 2012)

*Thanks for the reply*

Thanks for the exploded diagram just what I needed!
I bought my bike in pieces with three S2 rims some with guts some without
and want to build the best combo that is correct.
 So...for the rear hub/wheel on a 1954 Phantom...
In case I need to buy some _do I need 2 caged bearing sets with 10 1/4 balls?_
_Thanks again
Oh outside of the spam offerings where would I buy 2 caged bearing sets with 10 1/4 balls?
Thanks alot for the help.
Ernie_


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## Andrew Gorman (Dec 1, 2012)

I just use loose balls whenever I replace bearings.  They are readily available in bags of 100 (or more) at any bearing supplier, eBay etc.  The caged bearings just make them quicker to install.


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## greenephantom (Dec 4, 2012)

Unless the existing balls are dull or damaged, no need to replace them.
If you're going to pack them loose, the general rule of thumb is to leave space for one ball.  This gives the bearings a little elbow room, plus it eliminates the temptation to cram an extra ball into a space where it doesn't quite fit.
Final adjustment on these hubs is critical, you want there to be both no play and no binding in the hub.  Smooth rotational motion with no side-to-side.  And you have to have the outer locknuts fully tightened (right side against the cone, left side against the brake arm) or else the adjustment will work loose.  Get a cone wrench if you need to for the right side, and take your time to get it right.
Cheers, Geoff


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