# Rust on paint.



## Morgart

I'm looking for techniques to removes rust specks and staining from original paint without doing any more damage to the paint than is necessary. This is for a Ladies Firestone Speed Chief and photos are posted under that heading under Classic Balloon Tire Section. There are lots of suggestions here for removing rust from chrome - How about from original paint? Thanks in advance.


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## Duck

WD- 40, # 0000 steel wool, patience, a light touch & being attentive.


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## Rear Facing Drop Out

Wood bleach.  Ocsalic acid


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## Pantmaker

Ditto on the WD 40 and 0000 wool. You will find lots of wonderful opinions on this subject.  I think it comes down to the finish look of the bike that you prefer and the level of rust you are dealing with. On old bike paint I find the OA sometimes cleans up too much rust and often leaves paint that was heavily involved with rust in a very strange state.


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## bikesnbuses

I agree..I tried to do a BMX chain with white and chrome links in citric acid...The white didnt fare too well as the rust crept under the paint and when it came off ,so did then paint underneath..BUT I knew that might happen,I did do something else(I cant remember right this second)and that piece came out great!..Im NOT saying dont try it,just if you do,do it with something you dont care about to test the waters...
Ive been using the WD-40/0000 steel wool approach as well.. with pretty good results..You always have to expect the worst and hope for the best when trying to bring back old paint..trial and error and patience...


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## Duck

I've been following up the WD-40/ steel wool with Meguier's Scratch X , and getting excellent results...


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## OhioJones

Going to try this combination today. Trying to remove rust from 80 year old paint. Want to see the white paint. Not orange. ha! 
Thank you for the tip(s).


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## SirMike1983

This is a timely thread. I've had an article comparing Oxalic Acid to WD40/0000 Steel Wool sitting incomplete on my computer. I finally decided to finish it up:

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/08/removing-rust-from-fenders-oxalic-acid.html


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## GTs58

SirMike1983 said:


> This is a timely thread. I've had an article comparing Oxalic Acid to WD40/0000 Steel Wool sitting incomplete on my computer. I finally decided to finish it up:
> 
> http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/08/removing-rust-from-fenders-oxalic-acid.html




Thanks for posting your comparison SirMike! Have you done anything to further preserve the bare metal spots?


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## SirMike1983

Nothing so far- they have been sitting a couple of weeks in my garage and look as they do in the picture. They came from a 1938 CWC Cadillac. Given the results, I ultimately did WD 40 plus 0000 Steel Wool on the rest of the bike because I think the relic results are more consistent with this project than the Oxalic Acid. Which method you use depends on what you want out of the project- a more complete "cleaning up" or a "relic" type look with signs of age largely present.


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## OhioJones

SirMike1983 said:


> Nothing so far- they have been sitting a couple of weeks in my garage and look as they do in the picture. They came from a 1938 CWC Cadillac. Given the results, I ultimately did WD 40 plus 0000 Steel Wool on the rest of the bike because I think the relic results are more consistent with this project than the Oxalic Acid. Which method you use depends on what you want out of the project- a more complete "cleaning up" or a "relic" type look with signs of age largely present.




Photo's?


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## CapnCwby1969

Hi there! Would PB B'laster work better than WD-40?


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## Kato

If the rust is really bad I mix about 80% WD40 with Naval Jelly - - - mix it really well like scrambled eggs and good it on.
Start with 00 steel wool slowly working down to 0000 steel wool and WD40
Recently started using Turtle Wax Polishing Compound as my last step.........works really well.

Patience is the key to all of this like others are mentioned
Too aggressive and you can remove stuff you want to keep..


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## the tinker

You should post a picture of your project so we can see exactly what you would like to do .  Steel wool and even some of these cleaner type waxes can quickly remove pin stripes and graphics.  Be careful......


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## SirMike1983

Here's a comparison. Both fenders came from one project. Both were in about the same condition. The fender on top is oxalic acid applied via bandages (not a full soak-- wanted to preserve the braces) and the fender on the bottom is WD40 and 0000 steel wool.

Both fenders cleaned up relatively well and retained good original paint generally. The surface rust on top of the paint (the 'staining' type rust) was gone from both. The white cleaned up on both. The difference is that the steel wool and 0000 leaves the tiny specs of rust in the pitted areas, whereas the chemical method of the oxalic pulls the rust in full, even in small areas.







Which do you prefer? The steel wool method, I think, causes a more consistent finished condition. I think both fenders look good overall. The oxalic fender is certainly cleaner, but the lower fender looks a little more 'consistent'. The original paint is preserved on both, so the main goal is met. But the question then is do you go for the "cleanest" you can make it (oxalic) or do you go for a more 'consistent' condition (0000 steel wool). Either can clean your fenders and remove stains, but then the question is what condition and presentation you're shooting for. Each has a place in the toolbox.


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## Kato

Hit that with polishing compound now and it'll look even better......!!


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## Bajaway

Where do I buy oxalis acid?
And in what form thanks


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## the tinker

It's sold on line in bulk very cheap. Also some Ace Hardware stores stock it. See the post under this thread ; "Seeing is Believing " posted April 29th. 2015.


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## jorglueke

With those two fenders I lea more towards the second as the bare metal on an old bike seems more distracting.  Light rust on the bottom if it's sealed in with wax shouldn't get worse should it?


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## SirMike1983

jorglueke said:


> With those two fenders I lea more towards the second as the bare metal on an old bike seems more distracting.  Light rust on the bottom if it's sealed in with wax shouldn't get worse should it?




Yeah- that's what I mean by more "consistent". Even after you polish that paint, you have the bare metal sections that stick out somewhat. The brown meshes with the condition and age a bit better, even if not perfectly clean. If you are going to "patch" the paint with matching paint touch-up later, the bare metal is a better base though. This used to be norm (as were primo restorations), but today pure originality is the stronger condition, even with the bare/rusty metal.

Sealing it will slow further rust, though you're never totally in the clear once the metal surface is exposed. But it's manageable either way if you keep the bike in a dry place out of the weather and keep it clean.


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## jorglueke

If the spots are small enough and you get a good match enamel paint then the touch ups can be invisible.  You let the enamel cure for about three hours and then lightly sand/blend it into the existing paint and it's good as almost new.


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## SirMike1983

jorglueke said:


> If the spots are small enough and you get a good match enamel paint then the touch ups can be invisible.  You let the enamel cure for about three hours and then lightly sand/blend it into the existing paint and it's good as almost new.




I completely agree. If you get the right paint mix and put it on right, it looks fine. But people pay for originality these days. I like my own with the paint touched-up.


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## Armando Pellerano

Thanks for the great post. Before seeing this I was sold on going the OA route on my project, but now after seeing these pics I like the more natural look of the WD40 technique. Great side by side comparison.


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## bikesnbuses

I don't know if it's been mentioned.. 
But.. DON'T GET AO OR CITRIC ACID IN ANY OPENING ON YOUR FACE (eyes, mouth or nose) OR BODY(cuts, etc)... YOWZA!! it'll wake you up for sure!!! :eek:


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## SirMike1983

bikesnbuses said:


> I don't know if it's been mentioned..
> But.. DON'T GET AO OR CITRIC ACID IN ANY OPENING ON YOUR FACE (eyes, mouth or nose) OR BODY(cuts, etc)... YOWZA!! it'll wake you up for sure!!! :eek:




Oh yes... it loves moisture. If you spill it, do not inhale the dust; it will adhere to the moisture in your eyes, nose, and throat. All of them will start to burn. Put the powder straight into the water in one shot. This prevents a dust cloud of oxalic acid. If you pour the water onto the powder, it will kick up dust.


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