# War Time Schwinn New World with '42 coded Morrow Hub



## 3-speeder

Just completed overhauling my Schwinn New World.  Pretty happy with it.  Thanks to @Autocycleplane  for the saddle and @badbob for the plate. Both pieces really finished this project off right. I'm planning to change the tires but wanted to get some photos with the old Good Years. They're cracked but still pliable. I have a 3-speed wheel set that I'll probably put on to make the ride a little easier. Wondering about some of the parts originality. Haven't seen grips like these before and inside the front hub I found loose bearings. Wonder if the last owner upgraded that. The crank didn't have a year stamp either, maybe it's more of a date code?  Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob


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## 3-speeder

See the Morrow hub date stamped parts in Macro Monday post #869 here:
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/m...omed-in-detail-shots-on-monday.106873/page-44


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## mickeyc

Both of the war time lightweights I had on here (sold right away) had loose bearings in the front hubs.


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## Miq

Cool to see the wartime blackout stuff with a maroon World. I put Kenda K-23 tires on my 41 World and they seem to be ok. The tubes they sell with them are not great and the spoke tape is too narrow to cover the offset spoke nipples. You may want to find just the tires if you can. Finding tires that fit the S-6 rims isn’t easy.


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## GTs58

The 502 on the crank is a part number designating a mens crank. I sure would like to know when Schwinn actually started EF the bottom bracket shell. It wasn't in 41. The two that Mickey had were also EF with SN's starting with a J I believe.  Did you get the date on the rear hub?


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## Kickstand3

Here’s my unmolested  42 lots of unusual features . Yours looks original to me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## 3-speeder

GTs58 said:


> The 502 on the crank is a part number designating a mens crank. I sure would like to know when Schwinn actually started EF the bottom bracket shell. It wasn't in 41. The two that Mickey had were also EF with SN's starting with a J I believe.  Did you get the date on the rear hub?



The hub has an L3 stamp on the shell. Interestingly a few of the inner parts have an L4 stamp on them. Post #2 on this thread has a link to the macro Monday post with pics of those parts. Bet this bike was put together closer to the end of the year


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## 3-speeder

Miq said:


> Cool to see the wartime blackout stuff with a maroon World. I put Kenda K-23 tires on my 41 World and they seem to be ok. The tubes they sell with them are not great and the spoke tape is too narrow to cover the offset spoke nipples. You may want to find just the tires if you can. Finding tires that fit the S-6 rims isn’t easy.



I ended up putting the K23s on. I think that's the only tire that will fit. At least that's easy to find anyway. I'm setting up a 3-speed SA wheel set from a 67 Raleigh. Putting some Schwalbe Delta Cruisers with K-Guard on those wheels. I like the fatness of them. I'll have to add brakes and levers but I think it'll ride easier uphills and into the wind.  Contemplating putting the old Goodyears back on to the original wheels since I won't be using them really anyway. Not going to change them right now though. Still haven't committed myself to the 3-speed set up 100%. Kinda hate thinking of that old blackout Morrow hub just sitting around.


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## Miq

GTs58 said:


> The 502 on the crank is a part number designating a mens crank. I sure would like to know when Schwinn actually started EF the bottom bracket shell. It wasn't in 41. The two that Mickey had were also EF with SN's starting with a J I believe.




The New Worlds used the 502 "Ladies" crank with 6.5" offset.  The pedals are still too close to the ground if you ask me. Here's the 1940 catalog pages (23-24) with it called out from the grobbel site.  Listed as photo 215 part number 502:






The BB on my H serial number 1941 is not really "fillet" welded.  As @sam pointed out it has body lead added to make it look "fillet" welded.  Does that make this 41 EF?  This pic is from before I stripped off the rattle can red.










3-speeder said:


> Kinda hate thinking of that old blackout Morrow hub just sitting around.



  Agreed!  IMO that's part of what makes this bike cooler than most New Worlds I've seen.


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## 3-speeder

Miq I see that we have the same kickstand that stays put by digging itself into the stays. Same marks in the frame as my bike has. Odd setup I thought.


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## Miq

No doubt.  Miller add on stand is not ideal.  Mine spins past lock - forward and back without too much effort.  It wants to tip over too easy.  Just gotta be careful about it, but my 41 World being kinda ratty, makes me less worried about the occasional tip.

I'm thinking this is it: Part # 7166  "Side Stand for New World with 3 piece hanger" near the top.


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## bikiba

love these bikes. If you put those rims in an oxalic bath for a few hours they wld clean up that rust easy.


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## GTs58

@Miq
Note the EF weld slag on 3-speeder's BB shell. This was the beginning of that process that started war time and continued to evolve to where the shell had nubs where the chain stays, seat tube and down tube were EF. It's been said that Schwinn did not produce bikes for commercial sale in 1942 but they did get orders from the government to produce 10,000 bikes per year. I believe these Schwinns were Cycle Trucks and New World lightweights. My 41 Streamliner has painted fender braces like the bike above so I'm thinking that's a 41 model not a 42 since I see no black out parts on it.   











Thanks for catching my error on what sex that crank part number is.


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## Miq

@GTs58 Thank you for continuing this conversation with me over several threads.  I think I see what you are talking about.  It's a seam that is running across the BB at the top of the pic of 3-speeders BB.  This war era Schwinn stuff is interesting.  Why not a small run of "victory" or "defense" bikes each year 42-45?  Why couldn't some small production still be for general consumers?

I know you like attention to detail , and I had to figure the crank out on my 41, since the pedal and crank got welded and cut.  It is a lot easier to find a pre-war ladies crank on ebay than competing for a men's dog leg...  Hoping another caber will need the right info some day and see it.


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## Miq

@3-speeder I noticed your mudguards have the flat bar stays holding them to the axles and your rear guard has only one stay.  My 41 uses the older and fragile "wire" stays with 2 at the rear.  







This 1942? catalog "pic" (from Classicrondezvous) has a New World Sports Tourist w the wire stays.  But it also has a 3 piece crank and other stuff our bikes don't sport and is really an artists drawing of the bike.  


Still piecing info together...

The rest of the that catalog is great with pics of Bob Hope and Rita Hayworth riding lightweights.


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## Miq

The folks at Classiccycleus are saying this is a 1945 New World.  Check out the stays.  They don't attach separately to the axle in the back any more. This bike still has some black out parts on it.


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## Miq

Mickey's war era New Worlds were J serials.  Here's a pic of the EF BB to add to the thread.



The remaining front guards on these bikes had wire stays.


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## GTs58

If you go back to the 1939 NW image you'll see the flat fender braces and one piece crank. The three piece was optional in 39 along with other Paramount and Superior parts. These pre-war and war time lightweights can make one go nuts! 3-speeders fender look like the Paramount or Superior's style with the shorty rear fender and one brace, although it is a flat brace and not the wire. 
That very well could be the 1942 catalog, Schwinn composed the catalogs well ahead of time. It's not unusual where the year images were repeats of the previous year's images.


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## rollfaster

Kickstand3 said:


> View attachment 986695View attachment 986696
> Here’s my unmolested  42 lots of unusual features . Yours looks original to me
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



That is one incredible survivor!!


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## SirMike1983

Correct about the 502 crank - the frame geometry and clearance were better with the ladies crank. Perfectly ok to find a ladies crank on the New World.

Very early New Worlds have backward facing rear forks and flat braces. New World "racer" variant also backward facing rear forks.

After flat braces came the wire braces to the axles.

After the war came the stamped braces with dedicated rear mount on the frame. Nice wartime bike. Beware of the possible incipient separation of the frame at the seat stay - seat tube joint. It looks like a crack forming on the drive side joint.


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## Miq

SirMike1983 said:


> Very early New Worlds have backward facing rear forks and flat braces. New World "racer" variant also backward facing rear forks.
> 
> After flat braces came the wire braces to the axles.
> 
> After the war came the stamped braces with dedicated rear mount on the frame. Nice wartime bike.




Yes that's what it looks like to me too.  And as @GTs58 and others have noted, the New World was kind of a platform that you could add parts from the Paramount or Superior lines to, so you may see some non-stock parts on production bikes.

The hard part is figuring out what happened during the war years.  My prewar 41 has the seamless BB and wire stays.  After the war was clearly flat braces (again) and EF BB.  How do you tell a 42 from a 43 from a 44??  Maybe you never can if you didn't buy the bike in 4? yourself.

@3-speeder 's bike has black out parts, an EF BB and a hub that has parts dated to 42.  But maybe the hub mfg had to limit production too and was still using these parts for hubs destined for 43 or 44 Schwinn New Worlds.  Did the EF BB start in 42 along with flat braces to the axle?

Did anyone else notice that the axle mounts on 3-speeders bike look like separate pieces from the stays, and not at all like the ones on @Kickstand3 's 42??  Like it's an add on idea or link between two styles.  





I'm not as versed in war time Schwinn nit picking as a lot of you guys, so this could be a common thing I just don't know about...

Gott be war time right?  But what year?  Probably doesn't matter really.  Just being war time is close.


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## Miq

1939 Catalog is even more "cartoony" so it's hard to tell but the New World Tourist flat rear mudguard braces seem to meet into one piece before attaching to the axle.



1940 Catalog Tourist has wire stays:  



1941 Catalog World Tourist has wire stays:  



1941 (actually 1939 see below) Catalog World 3 speed as flat bar stays that meet before the axle on a separate piece.  



1945 World has the same bar stays and joining piece at rear axle as the 41 (really 39!!) 3 speed above.



1942? Catalog Tourist has wire stays:



Is 3-speeder's war time bike, with it's single blacked out flat bar stay on the rear mudguard, and 2 piece flat bar stay on the front guard odd?


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## SirMike1983

Could have been ordered that way, could be a parts clean-up bike. In the war era, I suspect a "parts clean-up" bike where factory used up whatever parts were left over.

But the 1942-45 period produced parts "clean-up" type New Worlds - bikes with all sorts of mixed parts, some painted and some plated. Schwinn didn't let parts go to waste, so you find mixmaster bikes from those years.

You're correct that the pre-war wire stays are fragile - where they stress and break is right on that center line where the mounting rivet goes. The wires have a really clean, pre-war look but the early flats and the later stamped braces are more robust.

It's a nice war era bike. Be careful about what looks like a crack that has formed in the drive side seat stay to seat tube joint. Check for integrity before riding.


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## Miq

"mixmaster bikes"


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## GTs58

This can't be a 41 model. Doesn't have the rear drop out so it's pre 40.


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## Miq

Ok but the Waterford scans of the 41 catalog show it on page 3. ??  Waterford. Is it confusing yet?


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## GTs58

Miq said:


> Ok but the Waterford scans of the 41 catalog show it on page 3. ??  Waterford. Is it confusing yet?




If it wasn't confusing enough, Waterford is messing with history! Someone should notify them about their error. Now there is two sites leading people to the wrong bowl of Kool Aid. 
Rear facing forks were last seen on the 39 models and they should know that! lol  Tom has it correct and Waterford messed it up. 
http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1893_1940/index.html


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## GTs58

The more confusing the better. Here's @bikepaulie 's 1939.


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## Miq

GTs58 said:


> If it wasn't confusing enough, Waterford is messing with history! Someone should notify them about their error. Now there is two sites leading people to the wrong bowl of Kool Aid.
> Rear facing forks were last seen on the 39 models and they should know that! lol  Tom has it correct and Waterford messed it up.
> http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1893_1940/index.html




@GTs58 Thank you for correcting this (at least with me ) Those red colored catalog pages are from 1939 NOT 41!


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## Miq

@bikepaulie ‘s World is great!  Love the handle bars and grips!!  Other than that it looks very similar to my 41.  With wire stays and the same front sprocket.  Thanks for adding it.  @GTs58


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## SirMike1983

From a historical perspective, the early American utility/diamond frame bikes were from a period of transition from the older-style designs and parts, to newer materials and parts. Going all the way back to the early 1900s, there had been diamond frame bikes for older teens and adults to ride. These were not meant to copy motorcycles, automobiles, or airplanes - they were meant as real transportation and utilitarian bikes. Bikes like the Mead diamond frame bikes of the 1910s and the various diamond frame bikes used by Western Union from the 1900s-30s come to mind. Although they had some modern aspects, these bikes are very much regarded as a part of the "antique" era of bicycles. They often (though not always) had 28 inch rims that ran single tube tires.

I think one could look at the American-made lightweights of the late 1930s (the New World is an example, but Westfield had the Sports Roadster/Tourist series, and there were other builders) as the first generation of "modern" , American-made utility bicycles for adults. But in the early years of this era, you still see some elements from the earlier era. For example, the bikes often had backward facing rear forks and continued to incorporate heavy, crossbar and long pull type handlebars. The bikes gradually gained conventional rear dropouts and handlebars more suited for adult utility bikes. By the late 1940s, the bikes were much more modern than they had been even 10 years earlier.

That's not to say the American-made bikes were much "ahead" of other builders in other parts of the world. Rather I think the Americans were very much playing "catch up" to English and European designs of the 1930s-40s. But there was a great deal of improvement and development in both design and parts in the American lightweights of the 1930s-40s. It's mostly overlooked today because people tend to focus on the US "bike boom" of the 1960s-70s.

But it's interesting to think of how much more advanced the Cro-Mo Schwinn Continental of 1948 with its stainless steel rims, three speed hub, and alloy parts was when compared to the heavier diamond frame, wood wheeled ancestor with a single speed New Departure Model C of just 15 years earlier (early 1930s). The early New Worlds of 1938-39 were an evolutionary step along that trail.


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## Miq

@SirMike1983 I appreciate you taking the time to tie that together.  I can see the progression from @bikepaulie 's 39 with the rear facing forks and the cross bar handlebar, to the more modern 48 multi gear Continental as an evolution now.  Thanks.


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## crazyhawk

Very informative thread guys!  I took a few shots of my New World.  I haven't yet had time to spend on it.  It's really dirty and in the condition I found it.  Sorry for the crappy pics but it is raining hard outside so I had to keep it in the basement.  The thing I just found that looks cool is the Goodyear tires with "war tire" stamped on them.  It may be common, but I never saw that before.  Not sure of the year.


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## Miq

@crazyhawk Thanks!  That's some more of the pieces.  I'm going to say 1942 with the I serial number.  Your bike was made somewhere between my 1941 H numbered bike and @mickeyc 's J numbered bikes and @3-speeder 's K numbered bike.

Miq's                 1941    - H Serial  - Wire Braces   - NOT EF BB
crazyhawk's    1942?    - I Serial   - Wire Braces   - NOT EFBB
mickeyc's    1942-44? - J Serials -Wire Braces   - EFBB
3-speeder's 1942-44? - K Serials - Bar Braces - EFBB     -  Q4 of 1942 Morrow Date Codes - Tons of Black Out parts Mixmaster bike

@GTs58 IMHO it looks like the EF BB on the Worlds started between I and J (42-43) assuming Schwinn followed the convention of flipping to the next letter each year.  I realize that when production was high they used multiple letters each year, but with production restricted 42-22, they may have only changed 1 letter each year to note the year change.

no proof


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## 3-speeder

SirMike1983 said:


> Could have been ordered that way, could be a parts clean-up bike. In the war era, I suspect a "parts clean-up" bike where factory used up whatever parts were left over.
> 
> But the 1942-45 period produced parts "clean-up" type New Worlds - bikes with all sorts of mixed parts, some painted and some plated. Schwinn didn't let parts go to waste, so you find mixmaster bikes from those years.
> 
> You're correct that the pre-war wire stays are fragile - where they stress and break is right on that center line where the mounting rivet goes. The wires have a really clean, pre-war look but the early flats and the later stamped braces are more robust.
> 
> It's a nice war era bike. Be careful about what looks like a crack that has formed in the drive side seat stay to seat tube joint. Check for integrity before riding.
> 
> View attachment 987893



Thank you SirMike. Hadn't noticed that crack. I'll definitely check it out. It would be a shame if it wasn't solid. Sharp eye sir.


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## 3-speeder

Enjoying where this thread has gone.  Appreciate everyone's input.


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## 3-speeder

So.... Upon further inspection the seat stay weld looks like it's okay. I beat on the stay with a mallet and it didn't come loose. JK!  Just inspected it with a magnifying glass and pulled at it with my hand.  Maybe I should try the mallet. The paint is chipped there.


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## SirMike1983

If it's rusted there or dirty, brush away the rust or dirt and look it over with a flashlight. Even if it is cracked, the joint may be passable, if the crack doesn't spread or open up.

The stuff that's especially deadly are the cracks or breaks at the front of the frame and in the fork (a collapsing fork buys the rider a broken collarbone or shoulder usually).


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## Miq

Glad to hear it is looking rideable @3-speeder.  I’m getting psyched to see what you do next to it.  Hoping you’re considering keeping the OG blackout stuff / mixmaster parts.  It’s pretty unique.

Excited to see you take it where ever really.  It will be a cool solid bike.


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## Miq

@crazyhawk Are there any blackout parts on your I serial bike?

I looked all over the diamond pattern goodyear tire that was on my 41 bike when I received it.  Despite having the same tread pattern, it does not have the War Tire plaque molded into the sidewall like yours.  Interesting.



Your I serial bike has 1942 Wartime clues, in my pipe dreams.  Puff Puff...


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## mickeyc

Miq said:


> @crazyhawk Are there any blackout parts on your I serial bike?
> 
> I looked all over the diamond pattern goodyear tire that was on my 41 bike when I received it.  Despite having the same tread pattern, it does not have the War Tire plaque molded into the sidewall like yours.  Interesting.View attachment 989307
> 
> Your I serial bike has 1942 Wartime clues, in my pipe dreams.  Puff Puff...



See attached photos of non-clincher 28" war tire.  This did not come from either of the Schwinn's that I posted on this thread.  Anyone interested in this tire (it's in pretty good shape, still pliable but doesn't hold air) can have it for the price of postage.  Shipbikes says about $22.00.  Make a nice display piece.


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## 3-speeder

SirMike1983 said:


> If it's rusted there or dirty, brush away the rust or dirt and look it over with a flashlight. Even if it is cracked, the joint may be passable, if the crack doesn't spread or open up.
> 
> The stuff that's especially deadly are the cracks or breaks at the front of the frame and in the fork (a collapsing fork buys the rider a broken collarbone or shoulder usually).



I brushed out any dust with a nylon brush and then inspected that joint thoroughly with a bright light and magnifying glass and it looks to be solid. A good reminder to me to add joint inspection to my pre-buying list.


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## 3-speeder

Miq said:


> Glad to hear it is looking rideable @3-speeder.  I’m getting psyched to see what you do next to it.  Hoping you’re considering keeping the OG blackout stuff / mixmaster parts.  It’s pretty unique.
> 
> Excited to see you take it where ever really.  It will be a cool solid bike.



I decided to keep the blackout single speed hub and og wheels in place. Couldn't hang em from the rafters. They're just too much a part of this bike. Thought I heard em say "ride me" when I was looking at the bike last night.


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## Miq

I could hear it from here too.


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## crazyhawk

In regards to my "I" serial number New World, there are no black-out parts on it.  I'm feeling like mine was made in the months after Dec. 7, 1941.  Goodyear Tire and Rubber may have been quicker to respond to the war effort than New Departure or Schwinn, or ND just had more stock built up.  Who knows, but that may be why mine has war tires but still has chrome parts.  And by the way,  I think these bikes are so underrated.  I love the way the thin, elegant front forks have a nice big curve , kicking the front tire farther forward.  They have such a beautiful yet subtle look that I just love.  Had to take it for a spin today.  You guys got me all psyched....


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## Miq

@crazyhawk Nice pics!  Thanks for the BLK OUT info.  I'm thinking your early 42 feelings are right.  Puff, puff...

Miq's                 1941    - H Serial  - Wire Braces   - NOT EF BB - No Black Out Parts - No War Tires
crazyhawk's    1942?    - I Serial   - Wire Braces   - NOT EFBB - No Black Out Parts - "War Tire" marked Tires
mickeyc's    1942-44? - J Serials -Wire Braces   - EFBB - Lots of Black Out Parts
3-speeder's 1942-44? - K Serials - Bar Braces - EFBB - Lots of Black Out parts - Mixmaster bike  -  Q4 of 1942 Morrow Date Codes


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## GTs58

Miq said:


> @crazyhawk Thanks!  That's some more of the pieces.  I'm going to say 1942 with the I serial number.  Your bike was made somewhere between my 1941 H numbered bike and @mickeyc 's J numbered bikes and @3-speeder 's K numbered bike.
> 
> Miq's                 1941    - H Serial  - Wire Braces   - NOT EF BB
> crazyhawk's    1942?    - I Serial   - Wire Braces   - NOT EFBB
> mickeyc's    1942-44? - J Serials -Wire Braces   - EFBB
> 3-speeder's 1942-44? - K Serials - Bar Braces - EFBB     -  Q4 of 1942 Morrow Date Codes - Tons of Black Out parts Mixmaster bike
> 
> @GTs58 IMHO it looks like the EF BB on the Worlds started between I and J (42-43) assuming Schwinn followed the convention of flipping to the next letter each year.  I realize that when production was high they used multiple letters each year, but with production restricted 42-22, they may have only changed 1 letter each year to note the year change.
> 
> no proof




Here's an I serial with a higher number than crazyhawk's and it has an EF BB.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/pre-war-or-war-time-schwinn-new-world.31530/#post-167930


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## GTs58

Here is a very interesting thread. Early J serial number and there was a whole lot of EFing going on! Actual head tube was not tubing, it was stamped, rolled and then EF. The top and bottom tubes were EF to the head tube and the OP says the seat tube was EF to the BB shell. Schwinn was really getting into it at this time! @3-speeder should check out his frame build.

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/need-help-i-d-ing-frame-and-fork.36952/#post-201720


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## 3-speeder

GTs58 said:


> Here is a very interesting thread. Early J serial number and there was a whole lot of EFing going on! Actual head tube was not tubing, it was stamped, rolled and then EF. The top and bottom tubes were EF to the head tube and the OP says the seat tube was EF to the BB shell. Schwinn was really getting into it at this time! @3-speeder should check out his frame build.
> 
> https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/need-help-i-d-ing-frame-and-fork.36952/#post-201720
> 
> 
> View attachment 990225



Interesting. I'll have to _look into_ this when I return home from my bird watching trips in a few weeks. Migration season is underway and I'll be traveling around Michigan and Ohio to enjoy my other favorite hobby.


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## CURTIS L LINDGREN

mickeyc said:


> See attached photos of non-clincher 28" war tire.  This did not come from either of the Schwinn's that I posted on this thread.  Anyone interested in this tire (it's in pretty good shape, still pliable but doesn't hold air) can have it for the price of postage.  Shipbikes says about $22.00.  Make a nice display piece.
> View attachment 989451
> 
> View attachment 989452
> 
> View attachment 989453
> 
> View attachment 989454
> 
> View attachment 989455



If this is a Single Tube....................I'll take it .


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## Miq

@GTs58 This is great!  It looks like we are down to the change from NOT EF BB to EF BB happening inside the I serial bikes.  Also interesting, in that cptnhwdy69 I serial thread, is that he mentions the wire stays being blackout.  That’s the earliest serial with a mention of blkout parts being used.

The early J serial Capt Nemo bike has blackout cranks.

I’m adding the 1940 F Serial bike from @Iverider ’s thread here: F Serial

Here’s the latest table:

bikepaulie’s 1939 - ?????? - Wire Braces - Braced Handlebars
Iverider’s 1940 - F52702 - Wire Braces - NOT EF BB - Little Arm ND Brake Lever
Miq's 1941 - H69537 - Wire Braces - NOT EF BB - No Black Out Parts - No War Tires
crazyhawk's 1942? - *I23545* - Wire Braces - *NOT EF BB* - No Black Out Parts - "War Tire" marked Tires
cptnhwdy69’s 1942? - *I35788* - Blkout Wire Braces - *EF BB*
Capt Nemo’s 1942-44? - J09514 - EF BB (EF Galore) - Blkout Cranks
mickeyc's 1942-44? - J12476 - Wire Braces - EF BB - Lots of Black Out Parts
3-speeder's 1942-44? - K57044 - Bar Braces (1 Rear) - EF BB - Lots of Black Out parts - Mixmaster bike - Q4 of 1942 Morrow Date Codes

Puff, puff...


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## SirMike1983

It may be interesting to add rear fork/dropout to your list. BikePaulie's also has the early type rear forks. It would be interesting to see how long it took to go the more regular rear dropouts. I suspect the old-style rear forks did not last long, but it would be interesting to see how far into the serial range it got.


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## Miq

@SirMike1983 Easy enough to add.  The change from the early type rear fork to the rear dropouts appears to happen somewhere between bikepaulie's 1939 and Iverider's 1940.  Hopefully we can collect more serial number info on bikes around this transition...

bikepaulie’s 1939 - ?????? - Wire Braces - Braced Handlebars - Early Rear Fork
Iverider’s 1940 - F52702 - Wire Braces - NOT EF BB - Little Arm ND Brake Lever - Rear Dropouts
Miq's 1941 - H69537 - Wire Braces - NOT EF BB - No Black Out Parts - No War Tires - Rear Dropouts
crazyhawk's 1942? - *I23545* - Wire Braces - *NOT EF BB* - No Black Out Parts - "War Tire" marked Tires - Rear Dropouts
cptnhwdy69’s 1942? - *I35788* - Blkout Wire Braces - *EF BB *- Rear Dropouts
Capt Nemo’s 1942-44? - J09514 - EF BB (EF Galore) - Blkout Cranks - Rear Dropouts
mickeyc's 1942-44? - J12476 - Wire Braces - EF BB - Lots of Black Out Parts - Rear Dropouts
3-speeder's 1942-44? - K57044 - Bar Braces (1 Rear) - EF BB - Lots of Black Out parts - Rear Dropouts - Mixmaster bike - Q4 of 1942 Morrow Date Codes


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## Miq

Nice write up about Schwinn war time lightweight victory bikes by @HUFFMANBILL Here



HUFFMANBILL said:


> In the early part of WWII from approximately July 1942 after the OPA ( Office of Price Adm.) lifted the 3 month freeze on bike sales( April-June 1942), Schwinn produced a number of '' Victory'' lightweight bikes.  The manufacture of these bikes of course followed the OPA bike manufacture regulations, to conserve metal for Military use.  These schwinns may have only been in production for a few months, because in Sept., it is my understanding that all bicycle produced and sold  had to be Columbia/Huffman made.  Whether this lasted the remainder of the war I am unable to say.  The point here is that Schwinn did make bikes during WWII.  Most of these were used by civilians involved in war effort work to save gas in getting to those jobs.  Most likely, but I cannot prove it a number of these Schwinn ''Victory'' bikes found their way onto military installations.  In my collection of WWII US Military and civilian defense ''Victory'' bikes are four Schwinn ''Victory'' models,  which I personally love .  Why did Schwinn not receive a government contract for Military bikes?  I do not know.  Their history of proven high quality bikes would make one think that they would have been pressed by the government for them.  I guess the powers to be had other plans for wartime production at Schwinn, which they did win the Excellence award for.  Maybe they submitted a plan and quote for Military bikes that was too high in cost .  Who knows?
> 
> Regards,
> Bill


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## crazyhawk

Oops, I missed something.  Again, sorry for the bad




 photography, but I just noticed that my I123545 NW does in fact have blackout wire braces to go along with the war tires.  Just want to be as accurate as possible for you guys that are working so hard to sort this out.  I think this thread is going to be very useful to a lot of people in the future!


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## Miq

@crazyhawk Thanks for adding more to the puzzle!  I think it's time to break this out into it's own thread and see if we can get a wider audience to participate.

@GTs58 Thank you for following me to yet another thread on wartime Schwinns.  You're help and insight have propelled this learning.

@SirMike1983 please join me for this next thread on victory New Worlds, your experience with these bikes is deep.  Thanks for adding so much.

@mickeyc Thanks for adding your bikes to the mix.  Even crusty bikes hold clues.

@3-speeder Thanks for letting us combine this insanity with your original thread on your very unique New World.  You have been quite nice about it and even helped facilitate a tire sale,    Have safe travels birding.

New thread: Tell Us About Them

Miq


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## 3-speeder

This has been very interesting to me. I'm really jazed about the new thread you started @Miq.  Thanks for the well wishes on my trips. Appreciate ya


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## HARPO

Apparently Schwinn and Columbia used the same people to pinstripe their Wartime bikes, lol! This is my all original girls Columbia.


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## Miq

Rear forks and war tires!  Good stuff @HARPO.


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## Alan Brase

Miq said:


> Mickey's war era New Worlds were J serials.  Here's a pic of the EF BB to add to the thread.View attachment 987395
> 
> The remaining front guards on these bikes had wire stays.
> View attachment 987396



In the last week I bought the remains of a 1942 New World on Ebay. It might be a few weeks before I get fully documented and then I will start a separate thread. But it is serial number J99657, had both mud guards (fenders) and they look similar to the above.
Also, my bike has the vertical head badge holes, so likely is a BF Goodrich badged originally, like Miq's Gramp's bike.
The bike has the Ashtabula type crank and is likely fusion welded at the joints. Not original paint and I feel it was probably sanded prior to repainting. The undersides of the fenders ARE red, but that might be primer.


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## Miq

@Alan Brase  When you get some closeup pics of the BB and some of the entire frame and mudguards, I would like to add them to the Wartime New World thread/table we are creating here: War Time New Worlds  From the info you provided, it sounds like you have a wartime (1943??) BFG badged New World.  Cool!


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## Alan Brase

SirMike1983 said:


> If it's rusted there or dirty, brush away the rust or dirt and look it over with a flashlight. Even if it is cracked, the joint may be passable, if the crack doesn't spread or open up.
> 
> The stuff that's especially deadly are the cracks or breaks at the front of the frame and in the fork (a collapsing fork buys the rider a broken collarbone or shoulder usually).



If there is ANY question of a crack on these frames, it might be a good time to get a good frame BRAZER to put a little brass weld on it like Schwinn shoulda done 77 years ago. Brazing actually may have a bit less tensile strength than mild steel fusion welding but the adhesion of the brass to the parent metal is extremely good.
Living in Iowa, I am lucky to have Jeffery Bock nearby. So, shortly, I will be taking my 1977 Paramount tandem for some brazing modifications. 
Maybe I'll take the New World along.
Yeah, he charges a lot. About what the shop that fixes your BMW charges. It's very subjective, but Jefff is one of the best in the USA.
Broken bones are a lot more expensive


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## Alan Brase

Miq said:


> @Alan Brase  When you get some closeup pics of the BB and some of the entire frame and mudguards, I would like to add them to the Wartime New World thread/table we are creating here: War Time New Worlds  From the info you provided, it sounds like you have a wartime (1943??) BFG badged New World.  Cool!



Actually, I bought the thing thinking I'd use the fenders only on my 1940 Superior. But, I am a hopeless romantic about saving old stuff, especially NEAT old stuff, so now it is hanging on the wall where I just took down  the 1973 Paramount for its first ride in 45 years.  Now I have to put more hook hangers in my living room wall.
Some difficulty posting pictures right now. Forgive me, but the pics won't be  the quality of yours!


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