# I just got this -



## Misterclassic (Jul 14, 2022)

I just got this Corvette today, it’s been through a flood and I want to get it going again. As close as I can find, it’s a 1954, made in late November. Is this what I have?


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## Drosentreter (Jul 14, 2022)

Post some more pics of the bike. I’d like to see it!


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## Drosentreter (Jul 14, 2022)

.


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## GTs58 (Jul 14, 2022)

That's not the serial number! PD license # maybe. The serial is on the left rear drop out if it's a Corvette.


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## Drosentreter (Jul 14, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> That's not the serial number! PD license # maybe. The serial is on the left rear drop out if it's a Corvette.



Duh. Had yet another moment. Thanks for catching that @GTs58


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## Misterclassic (Jul 14, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> Post some more pics of the bike. I’d like to see it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Misterclassic (Jul 14, 2022)

Let’s try this one -


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## Misterclassic (Jul 14, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> View attachment 1662641
> Let’s try this one -



November 15, 1954, right?


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## GTs58 (Jul 14, 2022)

Can you verify the first stamp? Looks like an H or maybe N on this end of the wire.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 14, 2022)

Can you verify the first stamp? Looks like an H or maybe N on this end of the wire.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 14, 2022)

It’s an N, from the numbers page it was built November 15, 1954, if I read correctly.


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## GTs58 (Jul 14, 2022)

11/15/54-- N84894 -- N99999

Yup, if that's an N. The date associated to the serial numbers is not a build date of the bike or the frame. That's the date the SN was stamped on the drop out, and later it was used to build a frame. I'd say the bike was built in early January 1955.


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## Freqman1 (Jul 15, 2022)

A pic of the entire bike?


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## Misterclassic (Jul 15, 2022)

A few more pics. It was submerged in two feet of muddy water during a flood. I know nothing about Schwinns but learning quickly with the help here. I don’t plan on a restoration, just clean it up and make it rideable again. With the fine dirt infiltrating everything, it all has to come apart with the major concern being the 3-speed. Any comments concerning that part of it will be appreciated.


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## 1817cent (Jul 15, 2022)

I like the Lincoln tags.  Clean it up and enjoy it.  Suspect it will take some time...


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## Bru (Jul 15, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> A few more pics. It was submerged in two feet of muddy water during a flood. I know nothing about Schwinns but learning quickly with the help here. I don’t plan on a restoration, just clean it up and make it rideable again. With the fine dirt infiltrating everything, it all has to come apart with the major concern being the 3-speed. Any comments concerning that part of it will be appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 1662681
> 
> ...



You are correct about your major concern being the 3-speed. I'm not an expert (and I don't know what rear hub you have) but I was advised to *not* take a part the Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub when I was working on my mid-70s Sting Ray. One of the old-timer Schwinn shop guys in town told me there where very few people that knew how to mess with that hub. In my case, I just added light oil in the access hole. However, you look like you have a whole different situation.


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## volksboy57 (Jul 15, 2022)

That is so cool! The lincoln plate is the same number on the top of the crank tube. So, yeah, it is a serial number that is associated with the plate. A matched pair!


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## Maurice (Jul 15, 2022)

Gorgeous Corvette find there Mr Classic! I’m fairly new to the Corvette models myself. Lots of good help here! 
I recently took apart a 2 speed corvette rear hub. Not hard, but completely different than your 3 speed. 
Good luck. Enjoy! And post photos along the way👍


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## Misterclassic (Jul 15, 2022)

volksboy57 said:


> That is so cool! The lincoln plate is the same number on the top of the crank tube. So, yeah, it is a serial number that is associated with the plate. A matched pair!



Yes, I thought it was an amazing coincidence too! From what others have said though, the stamped number at the top of the crank housing is from the Lincoln PD when the bike was licensed.  I'm guessing the plate came first, then the bike was stamped by the PD to match the plate when licensed.  The actual serial number was found on the drop out at the rear axle. None the less, I'm leaving the bike pretty much as is.  Just taken apart, cleaned up and parts replaced as needed.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 15, 2022)

Bru said:


> You are correct about your major concern being the 3-speed. I'm not an expert (and I don't know what rear hub you have) but I was advised to *not* take a part the Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub when I was working on my mid-70s Sting Ray. One of the old-timer Schwinn shop guys in town told me there where very few people that knew how to mess with that hub. In my case, I just added light oil in the access hole. However, you look like you have a whole different situation.



Yes, I'm looking for a different 3-speed hub.  I'm fairly mechanical but this may be more than I want to tackle.  With the amount of dried mud on the rest of the bike I'm sure a certain amount of that gunk found it's way into the rear hub.  It will definitely be a labor of love!


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## Drosentreter (Jul 15, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> Yes, I'm looking for a different 3-speed hub.  I'm fairly mechanical but this may be more than I want to tackle.  With the amount of dried mud on the rest of the bike I'm sure a certain amount of that gunk found it's way into the rear hub.  It will definitely be a labor of love!



Don’t just pitch your old 3 speed. I’d be interested in trying to rebuild it for myself, and if it doesn’t work then I know I can’t do it😂


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## Andrew Gorman (Jul 15, 2022)

Sturmey Archer AW hubs are easy.  Just plan ahead and have a diagram.


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## kostnerave (Jul 15, 2022)

I agree with Andrew Gorman, I've had dozens of these apart. If you're not sure what you are doing, find another rear wheel with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub in it, and practice with that one. I would suggest leaving the hub laced to the rim as it makes it easier to remove the drive side race from the hub. I'm sure there are plenty of diagrams and tutorials available here and on other sites, such as the Sheldon Brown site. These hubs were made to last and usually come back with a good overhaul.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 15, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> Don’t just pitch your old 3 speed. I’d be interested in trying to rebuild it for myself, and if it doesn’t work then I know I can’t do it😂



I like that idea, as long as I have a good working one ahead of time.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 15, 2022)

kostnerave said:


> I agree with Andrew Gorman, I've had dozens of these apart. If you're not sure what you are doing, find another rear wheel with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub in it, and practice with that one. I would suggest leaving the hub laced to the rim as it makes it easier to remove the drive side race from the hub. I'm sure there are plenty of diagrams and tutorials available here and on other sites, such as the Sheldon Brown site. These hubs were made to last and usually come back with a good overhaul.



I’ll check out the diagrams, thanks!  I usually read the directions after I’m done working on a project but in this case I should probably have some idea as to what I’m doing.


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## WillWork4Parts (Jul 15, 2022)

Bru said:


> One of the old-timer Schwinn shop guys in town told me there where very few people that knew how to mess with that hub. In my case, I just added light oil in the access hole.



Pansies just wanted to sell you a new hub or new bike altogether. 
They usually don't need much more than that though...


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## WillWork4Parts (Jul 15, 2022)

I think you'll be surprised at how well the bike cleans up. Looks like the mud preserved it better than some of the dried specimens that I've had. As long as the hub wasn't ridden with grit in it, I think it will clean out and roll fine again. I've had a few rusted ones apart and back riding even. Pitted races would be a reason to put the hub out of it's misery though. Just be careful with the springs and make sure you put the pawls back in facing the right direction. A little mechanical aptitude and a couple YouTube videos should set you on the right path.  If not, take pictures and ask questions here.

Friendly heads up, the seat, pedals, and front rim are not original to the bike. The front rim will not work very well with caliper brakes.


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## Andrew Gorman (Jul 15, 2022)

Springs! Pawls!  That sounds more like an SW, and even those aren't scary. These things have been built for more than 100 years.  Crack 'em open, clean 'em up and ride them to work.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 15, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> I think you'll be surprised at how well the bike cleans up. Looks like the mud preserved it better than some of the dried specimens that I've had. As long as the hub wasn't ridden with grit in it, I think it will clean out and roll fine again. I've had a few rusted ones apart and back riding even. Pitted races would be a reason to put the hub out of it's misery though. Just be careful with the springs and make sure you put the pawls back in facing the right direction. A little mechanical aptitude and a couple YouTube videos should set you on the right path.  If not, take pictures and ask questions here.
> 
> Friendly heads up, the seat, pedals, and front rim are not original to the bike. The front rim will not work very well with caliper brakes.



Yes, I have a new front wheel coming and I have a home for the one that’s on there now. The seat will stay for now, and pedals maybe changed out later. The basket will have to go, just not my style. I’ll get a rat trap for the front.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 16, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> I think you'll be surprised at how well the bike cleans up. Looks like the mud preserved it better than some of the dried specimens that I've had. As long as the hub wasn't ridden with grit in it, I think it will clean out and roll fine again. I've had a few rusted ones apart and back riding even. Pitted races would be a reason to put the hub out of it's misery though. Just be careful with the springs and make sure you put the pawls back in facing the right direction. A little mechanical aptitude and a couple YouTube videos should set you on the right path.  If not, take pictures and ask questions here.
> 
> Friendly heads up, the seat, pedals, and front rim are not original to the bike. The front rim will not work very well with caliper brakes.





Misterclassic said:


> Yes, I have a new front wheel coming and I have a home for the one that’s on there now. The seat will stay for now, and pedals maybe changed out later. The basket will have to go, just not my style. I’ll get a rat trap for the front.



Speaking of the pedals, what is correct for a ‘54-‘55 Corvette?


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## WillWork4Parts (Jul 16, 2022)

Bow pedals with screws holding the blocks on.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 16, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> Bow pedals with screws holding the blocks on.



Thanks, were there reflectors?


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## WillWork4Parts (Jul 16, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> Thanks, were there reflectors?



No reflectors in the pedals. I don't think the bow type pedals got them until 73ish.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 16, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> No reflectors in the pedals. I don't think the bow type pedals got them until 73ish.



Ok, thanks. You folks here are great!


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## GTs58 (Jul 16, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> Speaking of the pedals, what is correct for a ‘54-‘55 Corvette?




There were multiple versions of the Union Schwinn bow pedals over the years. These early ones are hard to find in good condition, and what sellers are asking for a pair that's trashed and worn out is ridiculous.
Also, the Sturmey hubs are dated, so if you want to stay "original" going thru the one on the bike would be best. Buying a used hub is a gamble, and you might have to go thru the replacement to even use it.

Correct bow pedals for 1954-1959.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 16, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> There were multiple versions of the Union Schwinn bow pedals over the years. These early ones are hard to find in good condition, and what sellers are asking for a pair that's trashed and worn out is ridiculous.
> Also, the Sturmey hubs are dated, so if you want to stay "original" going thru the one on the bike would be best. Buying a used hub is gamble, and you might have to go thru the replacement to even use it.
> 
> Correct bow pedals for 1954-1959.
> ...



Thanks for the pics, I have a better idea now. As far as the 3-speed on the bike, I have a ‘57 3-speed coming but I will tackle the original when it gets here.  At least I will have a Plan B in case I screw up.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 17, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> Thanks for the pics, I have a better idea now. As far as the 3-speed on the bike, I have a ‘57 3-speed coming but I will tackle the original when it gets here.  At least I will have a Plan B in case I screw up.



I cleaned up the rear hub, the Captain Obvious in me says it’s an AW from August, 1956? The drop out serial #N91206 says November 15, 1954. Would assembled bikes have had this wide of a date range or perhaps an early replacement on the rear hub?  I’m going to take the hub apart myself, it does go through the gears without trouble so I’m hoping all it needs is a good de-mudding, degreasing, re-oiling and TLC.


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## GTs58 (Jul 17, 2022)

That first shot of the hub date looked like 58, and the second shot actually shows 56 - 8.  
The serial N91206 was stamped 10/15 to 10/31/56 ------- N68048 ------------------- N99297
Not sure when the Schwinn blade forks first started showing up with dates, but maybe check out yours and see if it's date stamped. There will be a two or three digit stamping on the inside of the left fork leg just above the axle slot.  8 - 6 would indicate August 1956. Unfortunately, the cranks were not dated during the 50's.


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## Maurice (Jul 17, 2022)

Not sure if this helps matters or maybe just muddies the waters...I recently went thru a NOT perfectly correct Corvette with help from Cabers. We determined here the serial number is October '59 if I remember correctlly. My 3 speed hub stamped dates are 61 - 7 ? So again, like you, the dates don't exactly match up...I've yet to look at the fork stamp dates. 
LOTS of good help here from people with nice Corvette collections. Good luck!


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## WillWork4Parts (Jul 17, 2022)

Misterclassic said:


> View attachment 1662641
> Let’s try this one -



There's a more simple explanation for the 56 hub. Squint real hard at that N again, correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it's a W.


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## GTs58 (Jul 17, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> There's a more simple explanation for the 56 hub. Squint real hard at that N again, correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it's a W. View attachment 1664400




Yes, that serial stamping is still not a definite as far as I can tell looking at it. Looks repainted on the drop out so some clarification is needed from what I can see in the pictures. The two lines in the letter are vertical and don't correspond with a letter W? but it somewhat appears it might be a W.


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## Misterclassic (Jul 17, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> There's a more simple explanation for the 56 hub. Squint real hard at that N again, correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it's a W. View attachment 1664400



I checked again and it’s definitely the letter “N”. What’s throwing me off is according to the Schwinn numbers, N91206 could be November 15-29, 1954 OR October 15-31, 1956. The rear three-speed is dated 56   8 so that number would better fit the later date.

I don’t have any plans to show the bike ar anything, just clean it up, new tires and have it mechanically excellent and ride it! All the help here and positive comments have so far made my journey a fun one!


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## Misterclassic (Jul 18, 2022)

Maurice said:


> Not sure if this helps matters or maybe just muddies the waters...I recently went thru a NOT perfectly correct Corvette with help from Cabers. We determined here the serial number is October '59 if I remember correctlly. My 3 speed hub stamped dates are 61 - 7 ? So again, like you, the dates don't exactly match up...I've yet to look at the fork stamp dates.
> LOTS of good help here from people with nice Corvette collections. Good luck!
> 
> View attachment 1664372
> ...



Thanks for the input and you have a great looking bike, too! When mine grows up I want it to look as good as yours!


GTs58 said:


> That first shot of the hub date looked like 58, and the second shot actually shows 56 - 8.
> The serial N91206 was stamped 10/15 to 10/31/56 ------- N68048 ------------------- N99297
> Not sure when the Schwinn blade forks first started showing up with dates, but maybe check out yours and see if it's date stamped. There will be a two or three digit stamping on the inside of the left fork leg just above the axle slot.  8 - 6 would indicate August 1956. Unfortunately, the cranks were not dated during the 50's.



There is no date stamp on the fork legs but I’m going with the October, 1956 date on the bike build.  The matching numbers thing isn’t a deal breaker for me but if I can keep the original stuff on the bike, all the better!


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## Misterclassic (Aug 4, 2022)

Before and after pics. This bike had two feet of muddy water over the handlebars and a dried dirt crust on everything. I totally disassembled, scrubbed & cleaned everything. The wheels were rusted beyond repair and I found a very nice pair of front & rear wheels, with the rear having an excellent three speed hub. New shifter and cable, new tires, chain, pedals and added a really nice rat trap. Everything works like new!  I’ll go through the original three speed when time allows.  I’m curious as to the condition and inner workings, but for now, the replacement is working perfectly! This will be the wife’s bike while I follow with my Hiawatha! Thanks to all here with ID & tips, what a great bunch of people! Much appreciated!


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## GTs58 (Aug 4, 2022)

What a great job bringing that back to life.  👍  Did you replace the brake levers, or do a resto on the originals?


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## Misterclassic (Aug 4, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> What a great job bringing that back to life.  👍  Did you replace the brake levers, or do a resto on the originals?



I replaced the originals. I found a matched pair of wheels on Ebay, the rear having a nice 3-speed hub for a buy it now or make offer. The seller also had nice front & rear brake cables & levers listed and I asked if he’d throw in the cables & levers if I gave him the the buy it now price. He agreed. The rims are very good, the chrome is excellent, runout is negligible, and the hub shifts perfectly.


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