# Schwinn Decal Replacement



## videoranger

On Schwinn's with good paint and faded decals, how do you re-decal? With a top tube decal, I'm thinking to go over the present decal and line new one up to cover or use a cleaner that will take off the remaining print and then go over the clear decal. Any recommendations? Also, can you recommend a vendor for accurate well made water transfer decals?


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## Freqman1

Memory Lane Classics stocks a pretty decent selection of Schwinn decals. Personally I'd take some rubbing compound and remove any traces of the old one before applying a new decal. V/r Shawn


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## videoranger

Freqman1 said:


> Memory Lane Classics stocks a pretty decent selection of Schwinn decals. Personally I'd take some rubbing compound and remove any traces of the old one before applying a new decal. V/r Shawn



Thanks, Shawn. That's what I'm thinking too. I know the graphics are easy to take off the top of the decals, but not sure about the decal backing laid on the paint since it's so thin I'm thinking of not trying to take that off since it could get one into taking down the paint around the decal. The new decals clear backing should fit right over any traces of the old ones. I really don't like needing to re-decal at all, but with real nice paint I'm thinking it would be for the better without departing too far from the originality of the bike.


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## Moseph

The Schwinn lettering on the frame is a decal.and not paint? I have a 1969 Typhoon and the lettering is wearing away. I always just assumed it was painted on.


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## Freqman1

I believe some years/models may be screened but not really my area of expertise. V/r Shawn


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## GTs58

All the guards starting with the 59 model year were screened/paint. Later in the mid? 60's the fork darts were also screened. Everything else was a decal.

I've had good luck removing the clear decal base with just some polishing compound on a rag pulled over my finger tip. Keep the rag somewhat wet with polish.


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## momo608

I would not recommend using rubbing compounds to remove decals on any old original paint bikes particularity translucent paints. Try micro sol. The quality of Memory Lane decals has been hit and miss for me, I think Bicyclebones decals are better. Not perfect, just better.

This method results in zero paint removal. With translucent colors like this one, you can easily take too much paint off and reveal the silver base below.

More info.6/30/16  I didn't just put the micro sol on and wrap it saran wrap and walk away for an hour. I kept lifting the saran wrap worked on the edges of the decal with the stiff brush and applied more micro sol to keep the entire decal as wet as possible. There were a few stubborn spots that required me to use my finger nail. With patience it will completely remove the decal with no paint loss or scratching of the paint. The micro sol does not soften the paint.


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## GTs58

It appears taking off unweathered nice decals on a newer frame may take the method momo suggested. Hell, I've removed decals on a weathered 1979 frame with Barry's wax/cleaner. I had no problems with the polishing compound on a Lime 63's down tube decals. I've used it on many early 60's radiant colors cleaning up the brown/yellowed decals, even removing the outer old clear (yellowed) base. Cleaned up a few of the wrap around seat tube decals on the Corvette 5 speed and Varsity also.  Lets just say each case will be different depending on the condition of the decal your messing with.
.


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## videoranger

Good comments and helpful. Any experience with Pete's re-screening Sting Ray guards?


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## momo608

GTs58 said:


> It appears taking off unweathered nice decals on a newer frame may take the method momo suggested. Hell, I've removed decals on a weathered 1979 frame with Barry's wax/cleaner. I had no problems with the polishing compound on a Lime 63's down tube decals. I've used it on many early 60's radiant colors cleaning up the brown/yellowed decals, even removing the outer old clear (yellowed) base. Cleaned up a few of the wrap around seat tube decals on the Corvette 5 speed and Varsity also.  Lets just say each case will be different depending on the condition of the decal your messing with.
> .




This was actually an experiment to test this idea to do an older bike but the decal you are looking at is about 40 years old so not sure what you mean about newer. Anyway, it's always better to start with the most gentle technique possible and go more aggressive need be. When your buffing compound rag has the color of the paint on it, you are in dangerous territory. Removing paint that cannot be put back on. Actually the thinner and more worn the waterslide decal, the faster it removes with the micro sol.


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## momo608

videoranger said:


> Good comments and helpful. Any experience with Pete's re-screening Sting Ray guards?



Last I heard he had health issues, better check if he's still doing it.


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## videoranger

Talked to Pete and he still does the screens. Since there tends to be alignment issues with re-screens, he needs to do 3 separate screens for a Schwinn Deluxe Sting-Ray graphic@ $25.00 for each screen. With shipping each way that is about $100.00 for a re-screen. The original decals on the bike I'm working were fine, the guard has faded screen and good paint with one noticeable scratch on screen. Someone previously sprayed clear lacquer over the top bar decals and guard screen which over time has become dark and has a bad texture compared to the smooth Schwinn paint. I decided to use prep solvent and polishing compound to remove screen and decal graphics and all the lacquer over spray. Paint looks smooth and is in good condition, so re-decal on top tube should look good. Not sure if I want to put $100 into re-screen on guard (not sure if it would match condition of guard paint) or use Bicycle Bones decals for $15 (not original, but might look OK).


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## Jeff54

momo608 said:


> I would not recommend using rubbing compounds to remove decals on any old original paint bikes particularity translucent paints. Try micro sol. The quality of Memory Lane decals has been hit and miss for me, I think Bicyclebones decals are better.
> The micro sol does not soften the paint. ]




Micosol yes, much better than trying to polish em off.  I have it too, but Bones is a maybe for me, can't say the quality or that is, durability and or difficulty of applying one way or another but I got some Schwinn decals that are in no way exact or matched. worse, after sending him the photos of what's wrong, he's still passing em off. Soooo,,..

Alternatively he's good at refunds replacements and seems to be an all around nice guy.


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## momo608

Jeff54 said:


> Micosol yes, much better than trying to polish em off.  I have it too, but Bones is a maybe for me, can't say the quality or that is, durability and or difficulty of applying one way or another but I got some Schwinn decals that are in no way exact or matched. worse, after sending him the photos of what's wrong, he's still passing em off. Soooo,,..
> 
> Alternatively he's good at refunds replacements and seems to be an all around nice guy.




I could not agree more with what you said. Some of BB's decals are not exact, maybe a lot of them. I can only go by what I used. We worked together making some decal sets and I had very little input on final designs. His attitude seems to be close is good enough. He does get official Schwinn approval but apparently that does not translate into accuracy. When I said better I was actually thinking they install and stick better. I had a bunch of Memory Lanes decals fall apart sliding them off or not sticking, lots of silvering. Velocals has the good enough attitude as well but they're not into repro waterslide decals. Vinyl's mostly. No one is making anything I'm thrilled with.


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## momo608

videoranger said:


> Talked to Pete and he still does the screens. Since there tends to be alignment issues with re-screens, he needs to do 3 separate screens for a Schwinn Deluxe Sting-Ray graphic@ $25.00 for each screen. With shipping each way that is about $100.00 for a re-screen. The original decals on the bike I'm working were fine, the guard has faded screen and good paint with one noticeable scratch on screen. Someone previously sprayed clear lacquer over the top bar decals and guard screen which over time has become dark and has a bad texture compared to the smooth Schwinn paint. I decided to use prep solvent and polishing compound to remove screen and decal graphics and all the lacquer over spray. Paint looks smooth and is in good condition, so re-decal on top tube should look good. Not sure if I want to put $100 into re-screen on guard (not sure if it would match condition of guard paint) or use Bicycle Bones decals for $15 (not original, but might look OK).




I used BB's chainguard decals and thought they were pretty good. Only a Stingray fanatic would notice the difference.

Can't say I messed with hack clear job over Schwinn paint. A trick in the body shop business is to take clear packing tape and try and pull off the clear coat with the sticky side of the tape. This worked especially well on trick vans with graphics. The chain guard might be a problem because the paint is on chrome. The original paint has very poor adhesion so watch out.


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## Jeff54

momo608 said:


> I could not agree more with what you said. Some of BB's decals are not exact, maybe a lot of them. I can only go by what I used. We worked together making some decal sets and I had very little input on final designs. His attitude seems to be close is good enough. He does get official Schwinn approval but apparently that does not translate into accuracy. When I said better I was actually thinking they install and stick better. I had a bunch of Memory Lanes decals fall apart sliding them off or not sticking, lots of silvering. Velocals has the good enough attitude as well but they're not into repro waterslide decals. Vinyl's mostly. No one is making anything I'm thrilled with.





Some times it's tough to tell, especially if you've taken off the old decal and replaced the new. BUT if you're paying attention, as in the case of the OP who wants to 'maybe' apply directly over the old, or in my case, I'd put marker lines where the old was, so I could get it back in the right spot,  only to discover the new one was 11-1/6" and the old; 10-1/4. Had I not marked I never would have noticed. whoever made the decals, stretched them in whatever program, Photoshop or whatever, which also made the letters thin, so, in the Ops case whether the same as I replaced or another type where size and or details were so poor,  it would never align or cover the old..

Also, once I realized this, I was on a hunt to find original bikes and their decals.  then, I also discovered while length was consistent letter thickness on originals, {waterslide}, wasn't Then I realized Schwinn's decals must have been screen printed and it meant potential clogging that can make variances.  Regardless, replacement "Approved" >> Practically a whole inch longer is not good.

Sooo,,, all around nice guy, cept fer 1 itsy bitsy 15/16" thing. It hasn't stopped em from being passed off.

Everbody else had that wrong decal too the same sized that Bones claimed he had made from the original, except, after months of searching, VintageSchwinn.com turned up with the right one.


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## videoranger

I've got a set of top tube, sting-ray deluxe guard, and fork darts coming from BB. Since I can still see a faint ghost of the original graphics due to paint fade, it will be easy to see how accurate the replacements are. I'll update on that. It seems like making accurate repo's would be pretty simple....


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## GTs58

The decals mentioned above that were longer were more than likely accurate. The Schwinn feather script in cursive that was first used on the 1954 Jag Ballooner and then the 50's middleweights cannot be compared to the same "looking" decal used on the 80's Cruisers. 20 years difference between the two decals!


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## CrazyDave

for decals, try memory lane. cheap and good people to deal with.


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## Jeff54

GTs58 said:


> The decals mentioned above that were longer were more than likely accurate. The Schwinn feather script in cursive that was first used on the 1954 Jag Ballooner and then the 50's middleweights cannot be compared to the same "looking" decal used on the 80's Cruisers. 20 years difference between the two decals!





That's Nonsense, everybody Except Vintage Schwinn has the decals that Bones had made himself. I can see the difference  others have and Bones collaborated he'd sold them . Plus he told me that he couldn't understand why,  what he has would be different because accordingly, his were made from NOS of 80's cruiser decals..

Yet I don't personally know if the 50's Corvette, Jaguar, American, are longer but would also mean that Vintage Schwinn only has the 80's size.

And obviously, neither do you know the differences but as typical "Most likely" just spouting your mouth off. Stop stalking me!

Don't just spout you mouth off but get a friggen measurement and prove your "Most likely" foolishness.
.

Otherwise there is a slight difference between the 50's and 80's (write it down) and it's not length but font thickness and top script line placement,

And I have not checked in some time but now, Bones is no longer selling his extra long sets as 80's but was for months following my notifying him. . And frankly, without proper credible citing's, yet I've searched and browsed every friggen photograph of them on original bikes on the net,  for all years all models,  I doubt they're right for 54, 55, 56 and 57 too.


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## GTs58

Jeff54 said:


> Did they, seriously, ya gotta wonder, did Schwinn make a top tube decal with 2 stars 3 years ahead of its time?
> 
> the catalogs do not show 2 stars for and aft on top tube decals until 1962.. Here's the first, on the American in red paint, 2 stars. And below it in 61. Most catalog photos for these years are difficult to determine, but comparing two red bikes clearly reveals 1 star up too 61 and 2 in 62.
> 
> *
> 1962 red  American 2 stars:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *1961 red Speedster, 1 star: *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It is a curiosity, to be sure.*





Spouting off with nonsense huh. One star wonder.


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## Jeff54

GTs58 said:


> Spouting off with nonsense huh. One star wonder.



Wait, is that your credible evidence in this topic, or just another contribution of NONSENSE?

yet once again another foolish off topic, (remember what the OP asked?) Take your _*Anxiety*_ pills, your  personality disorder is showing.. . [wink]


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## videoranger

Got the BB decals and they look to be very accurate. Still prepping the paint so haven't put them on yet. I'll update when they go on


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## Barry Carlisle

Maybe someone can help on this topic. Ive just acquired a 1959 white schwinn corvette. Is there a complete set of decals available for it? Especially for the top curved tube and forks. Thanks for indulging a newbie.


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## Schwinn499

Barry Carlisle said:


> Maybe someone can help on this topic. Ive just acquired a 1959 white schwinn corvette. Is there a complete set of decals available for it? Especially for the top curved tube and forks. Thanks for indulging a newbie.



Short answer, no. Those decals are purdy rare.


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## island schwinn

Barry Carlisle said:


> Maybe someone can help on this topic. Ive just acquired a 1959 white schwinn corvette. Is there a complete set of decals available for it? Especially for the top curved tube and forks. Thanks for indulging a newbie.




I've been on the lookout for the decals for a couple decades if that gives you a clue.there's a chainguard decal available from bicyclebones,but it's not a very good match.


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## Jeff54

Barry Carlisle said:


> Maybe someone can help on this topic. Ive just acquired a 1959 white schwinn corvette. Is there a complete set of decals available for it? Especially for the top curved tube and forks. Thanks for indulging a newbie.





This decal dealer seems to have a good reputation for making both vinyl and water slide accurately. 4 pages of Schwinn's but few 50-60's older variations. .  Yet, perhaps they'll make some. http://www.velocals.com/search.php?search_query=Schwinn

Can't say how well these are but,  original sets of this Script logo have got to be incredibly rare.


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## momo608

Jeff54 said:


> This decal dealer seems to have a good reputation for making both vinyl and water slide accurately. 4 pages of Schwinn's but few 50-60's older variations. .  Yet, perhaps they'll make some. http://www.velocals.com/search.php?search_query=Schwinn
> 
> Can't say how well these are but,  original sets of this Script logo have got to be incredibly rare.



I bought a decal set to do my superior from velocals $70. Out of five different decals, four were wrong, WAY wrong. A mixture of way off on size, color and design.
His waterslides MUST be clear coated. His vinyls that don't need to be cleared are very thick. When you have a problem, very hard to get a hold of. No phone number listed had to google search his business to get a #. Days to return a call, phone just rings, leave a message. Speaking on the phone with him it was obvious he didn't give a sheet about any of it, they're close enough he thinks but then he'll tell you how much effort goes into making sure they are correct. Likes to say Schwinn changed decals designs all the time so even though they are way off on your bike, Schwinn used the design, your bike is the problem. Got him to remake one the right size. Absolute last resort if I need decals he sells in the future.


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## Jeff54

momo608 said:


> I bought a decal set to do my superior from velocals $70. Out of five different decals, four were wrong, WAY wrong. A mixture of way off on size, color and design.
> His waterslides MUST be clear coated. His vinyls that don't need to be cleared are very thick. When you have a problem, very hard to get a hold of. No phone number listed had to google search his business to get a #. Days to return a call, phone just rings, leave a message. Speaking on the phone with him it was obvious he didn't give a sheet about any of it, they're close enough he thinks but then he'll tell you how much effort goes into making sure they are correct. Likes to say Schwinn changed decals designs all the time so even though they are way off on your bike, Schwinn used the design, your bike is the problem. Got him to remake one the right size. Absolute last resort if I need decals he sells in the future.





Interesting. As I've been considering them, for a few trek decals so after you post  I took a look at 2,800 feedbacks posted at ebay. There are 4 that say decals are wrong sized, all were for different bikes too. a few others commenting on slow delivery but very few for 2,800.

Most surprising was for a Trek 930 set because, those are new enough to get right, especially from a place that specializes in road bike stickers.

As I experienced wrong sized decals for an 80's Schwinn cruiser but not from them,  and was told that nobody every complained after so many years of selling them. It seems to me that very, very, VERY few people who buy stickers and decals for restorations have taken the time to be sure they place an exact match.

And e-bay, worse, even less have the guts to put negative or neutral feedback.

Also noted about Verlocals in eBay's feedback, when there's a problem good luck getting assistance too. 1 of 4 gave up, a few others took quite a while. nobody commented otherwise.

Your describing an arrogant butt head. I did ask them a question months back and it took 2 days to get an answer. Regardless, The question was about an 84 decal set and I was disappointed that they could not cite with certainty what two colors were used. Otherwise it wasn't difficult to get email .

Looks like there's room for competition to swoop down on the whole market and wipe  everybody out. [grin]


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## momo608

Jeff54 said:


> Interesting. As I've been considering them, for a few trek decals so after you post  I took a look at 2,800 feedbacks posted at ebay. There are 4 that say decals are wrong sized, all were for different bikes too. a few others commenting on slow delivery but very few for 2,800.
> 
> Most surprising was for a Trek 930 set because, those are new enough to get right, especially from a place that specializes in road bike stickers.
> 
> As I experienced wrong sized decals for an 80's Schwinn cruiser but not from them,  and was told that nobody every complained after so many years of selling them. It seems to me that very, very, VERY few people who buy stickers and decals for restorations have taken the time to be sure they place an exact match.
> 
> And e-bay, worse, even less have the guts to put negative or neutral feedback.
> 
> Also noted about Verlocals in eBay's feedback, when there's a problem good luck getting assistance too. 1 of 4 gave up, a few others took quite a while. nobody commented otherwise.
> 
> Your describing an arrogant butt head. I did ask them a question months back and it took 2 days to get an answer. Regardless, The question was about an 84 decal set and I was disappointed that they could not cite with certainty what two colors were used. Otherwise it wasn't difficult to get email .
> 
> Looks like there's room for competition to swoop down on the whole market and wipe  everybody out. [grin]



I offered to work with him to make a complete and accurate set for the Superior. He simply was uninterested. Here is the decal he did remake, this is what he first sent me. He still insists Schwinn made these big decals but would remake them the size I wanted anyway. So $70 dollars for two of these SUPERIOR"s and two down tube SCHWINN's. The rest ended up in the trash. I homemade the seat tubes and forks and Bicyclebones supplied the right quality decal, I could have used his down tubes as well. 

I don't know about his other decals but I suspect a lot of guys accept them because they're better than nothing. 

From what I understand the guy in Australia is open to making new decals, maybe he's better. Have his Raleigh pro decals and they look good in all ways but they are vinyl.


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## phantom

Advise Please: I need to put decals on an 81 Cruiser 5 that I am just cleaning up. Paint is super but decals or screening is very faint. I just want the bike to look good, it is not going to be a show quality restoration. I have never used vinyl only water transfers and I have had a few of them from ML come apart as soon as water hit them. Any suggestions?  Thank you


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## phantom

Anyone ?


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## GTs58

phantom said:


> Advise Please: I need to put decals on an 81 Cruiser 5 that I am just cleaning up. Paint is super but decals or screening is very faint. I just want the bike to look good, it is not going to be a show quality restoration. I have never used vinyl only water transfers and I have had a few of them from ML come apart as soon as water hit them. Any suggestions?  Thank you




MLC's and Bicyclebones should have what you need. I've seen the decals you need off and on from different sellers on eBay but they were probably decals they purchased and didn't use or old stock from closed bike shops and no longer being sold by those sellers. Dan's _Schwinn_ feather script decals are most likely copies of the 1954-58 issue and the Cruiser's decal is somewhat the same but has been noted by a member here that there is a slight difference between the two issues. If there's a concern the decals will fail when dipped in water, do a decal pre-treat with a layer of clear lacquer.


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## Jeff54

1







phantom said:


> Anyone ?



Sorry I forgot where I got my decals.

 The top bar decal by everybody else is wrong, I bought others which were sized wrong. And checked sizes with everybody I could find.  Almost an actual inch to long until I ran across, the only person and site that's got it right.


I do not know whether other decals are wrong but, I recommend you contact : http://www.vintageschwinn.com/decals.html#
Right: 10-1/4"
Wrong 11-1/16"
Specifically, although not sure fire method but, watch for the dot, above the I in Schw 'i' nn. it should be level with the scowl line, not poking above it as can see in lower, too long 11-1/16"  decal. .


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## phantom

Jeff54 said:


> 1
> Sorry I forgot where I got my decals.
> 
> The top bar decal by everybody else is wrong, I bought others which were sized wrong. And checked sizes with everybody I could find.  Almost an actual inch to long until I ran across, the only person and site that's got it right.
> 
> 
> I do not know whether other decals are wrong but, I recommend you contact : http://www.vintageschwinn.com/decals.html#
> Right: 10-1/4"
> Wrong 11-1/16"
> 
> 
> View attachment 449181



Thanks......If the ones I ordered are too long it will be easy to section each end to get the correct length.


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## Jeff54

phantom said:


> Thanks......If the ones I ordered are too long it will be easy to section each end to get the correct length.





Nope, it's tough enough to get the feather scowl line on, but this is a point everybody misses: Specifically, although not sure fire method but, watch for the dot, above the I in Schw 'i' nn. it should be level with the scowl line, not poking above it as can see within my photo, in lower, too long 11-1/16" decal. Not only will the thickness of the font be wrong because the others are stretched before printing but, you try and cut it down and rejoin em?,, yeah, good luck wit dat thought, [grin}

Vintage Schwinn is the only one who's got it right, in their photos and proved once I recived a set through them:




Some of the deluxe models, which are the only ones I've seen that are really thick and go this far but, illustrate  how different the font thickness on them can be. That is, many original decals vary in font thickness. likely due to the rapid printing, and many of the Deluxe's show the degree in the change that all of the 80-82 Cruiser's can have. Hence, the  replica's letter thickness is wrong because whoever printed them screwed em up from the get go. probably photographed them and inside of photoshop, miscalculated the width, which would be stretched.

The top of this photos is the crap "Authorized" ? LOL  while bottom is on an  real, original  Cruiser Deluxe. I donno maybe they put the best on the deluxe while the 5's and standards can vary in thickness in the letters, fat too slightly thinner than.  Yet they're not, fricken 11-1/16" Inches long like the so called "authorized" are! :




:


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## phantom

I seriously doubt I will have anyone checking it out that closely. This is the last ones I bought. Right or wrong ?


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## the tinker

Right or wrong I really like it!     Thumbs up for this one.


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## Jeff54

phantom said:


> I seriously doubt I will have anyone checking it out that closely. This is the last ones I bought. Right or wrong ? View attachment 449307




That looks like a vinyl sticker, verses decal but, the print looks correct for the top bar.

But me tinks this may be what you were going for? This type, pretty sure is an actual Schwinn made version, but don't know what was on. It has a thinner feather scroll line verses any and the dot above the I  is high centered plus is straight verses curved , [wink] I recall seeing this type some time ago, but ferget, maybe mid to late 70's . I happened across it though, and saved photo of it for future use, but more to be found on this link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHWINN-PHANTOM-PANTHER-HORNET-BICYCLE-TANK-/192111514813?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&nma=true&si=YSuRd6BEHb0oLFDhptSeJ0X1TG0%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

No horn and has a hole in tank for the cable:


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## phantom

What I was going for was the curved feather script so it followed the indentation of the tank. IMO it looks better than the straight line on the yellow tank.


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## Jeff54

phantom said:


> What I was going for was the curved feather script so it followed the indentation of the tank. IMO it looks better than the straight line on the yellow tank.



Yeah I kind-a like yours too, albeit would be struggling for wear and tear where the script runs over the outer edge. Regardless it's your bike. [grin]
That yellow tank appears to be smaller lettering. had I a use for the yellow, I would-f nabbed it on the bay end of auction as I likes that yellow.


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## drglinski

Resurrecting this thread- I'm thinking of buying the BB ones.  Does anyone know the longevity of the decals after they are applied?  Especially the chain guard ones? (due to pant legs, etc)  

Are there issues with seeing the edges of the decals after they are applied, and what did you do to eliminate that?

Thanks


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## Jeff54

drglinski said:


> Resurrecting this thread- I'm thinking of buying the BB ones.  Does anyone know the longevity of the decals after they are applied?  Especially the chain guard ones? (due to pant legs, etc)
> 
> Are there issues with seeing the edges of the decals after they are applied, and what did you do to eliminate that?
> 
> Thanks



Micro Set and Micro Sol availed as a pair, look up on net. You need to keep it wet, floating while you're placing a decal. work bubbles and wrinkles out. 'Floating' But, hit up u-tube for expert advice.


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## GTs58

drglinski said:


> Resurrecting this thread- I'm thinking of buying the BB ones.  Does anyone know the longevity of the decals after they are applied?  Especially the chain guard ones? (due to pant legs, etc)
> 
> Are there issues with seeing the edges of the decals after they are applied, and what did you do to eliminate that?
> 
> Thanks




Can I ask what model, year and what decals you are thinking about replacing. New paint, old paint? 

The edges of water slides are always visible, even factory installed, but you can cut off the excess clear base prior to soaking. Longevity is dependent on many factors but if they are installed correctly and they are not crap decals they'll last just as long as the originals. Over soaking is one of the most common mistakes that creates all kinds issues. 

I've only used Dan's decals and so far I have never had problem. The longest decals I've installed were the downtube decals on a 63 Varsity and the install went very smooth. I was glad they're wasn't any damaged paint I had to deal with where the decals were. Installing decals over chips and scratches isn't recommended.


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## drglinski

66 Schwinn Typhoon.  Old paint. I have experience doing decals on model cars/trains etc so I get the concept.  Thanks


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## drglinski

I ended up going with the B.B. ones on eBay.   Good reviews both on eBay and from the forums, that and I couldn’t get ahold of the guy that bought the majority of the MLC ones.   The chain guard decal is pretty much spot on from the factory script, however, the top tube decals are too big.   Not impressed with how the old shows through because the new ones are too big to hide it.   I wasn’t going with a full repaint and hoped the decals would spruce it up a bit.   If it was a repaint I’d probably not notice, but as a direct lay-over replacement they are not.   I’m disappointed in them for what they cost. (40 bucks a set).


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## Danny the schwinn freak

I have a question that may be answered previously in this thread but I got bored after reading the first 25 comments. I have a 1980 Typhoon and I’d like to remove the top tube decals and the chainguard lettering as well. I believe the chainguard is screened (is that correct) and if so, that may pose more of a challenge. But as far as the top tube decals go, is the general consensus that Micro Sol is the best method? If so, where can I buy it? And if not, what’s better? Thank you in advance for the info!!!!


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## Jeff54

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> I have a question that may be answered previously in this thread but I got bored after reading the first 25 comments. I have a 1980 Typhoon and I’d like to remove the top tube decals and the chainguard lettering as well. I believe the chainguard is screened (is that correct) and if so, that may pose more of a challenge. But as far as the top tube decals go, is the general consensus that Micro Sol is the best method? If so, where can I buy it? And if not, what’s better? Thank you in advance for the info!!!!




That's a tough spot, makes ya wonder; if Schwinn changed sizes periodicity.  But when I learned the Cruiser set I'd bought were  too large I'd also figured out that everybody on ebay had the same off sized water-set. Yet because of the difference in the two sized sets, their' photo at Vintage Schwinn had things in the correct position: http://www.vintageschwinn.com/decals.html#

Had said too; 'Refunded if wrong sized' , they weren't wrong and did  match original.

..


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## bikemonkey

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> I have a question that may be answered previously in this thread but I got bored after reading the first 25 comments. I have a 1980 Typhoon and I’d like to remove the top tube decals and the chainguard lettering as well. I believe the chainguard is screened (is that correct) and if so, that may pose more of a challenge. But as far as the top tube decals go, is the general consensus that Micro Sol is the best method? If so, where can I buy it? And if not, what’s better? Thank you in advance for the info!!!!



Every bicycle shop I have worked in since 1980 has used acetone to remove decals. I still work in a bike shop and I still use it. It will not affect the paint.


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## Danny the schwinn freak

bikemonkey said:


> Every bicycle shop I have worked in since 1980 has used acetone to remove decals. I still work in a bike shop and I still use it. It will not affect the paint.



Interesting. I will have to give that a shot. Thank you!


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## drglinski

drglinski said:


> I ended up going with the B.B. ones on eBay.   Good reviews both on eBay and from the forums, that and I couldn’t get ahold of the guy that bought the majority of the MLC ones.   The chain guard decal is pretty much spot on from the factory script, however, the top tube decals are too big.   Not impressed with how the old shows through because the new ones are too big to hide it.   I wasn’t going with a full repaint and hoped the decals would spruce it up a bit.   If it was a repaint I’d probably not notice, but as a direct lay-over replacement they are not.   I’m disappointed in them for what they cost. (40 bucks a set).
> 
> View attachment 875011
> 
> View attachment 875013
> 
> View attachment 875014



Follow up to this post three years later- after about two years they started flaking and falling off.  Not impressed of the quality at all to say the least.  Did not clear coat over them or alter them in any way.  The durability and longevity is not there.  Doubt at this point it's worth trying to get any kind of refund, that being said, I'd never buy them again.  Photos to come.


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## GTs58

drglinski said:


> Follow up to this post three years later- after about two years they started flaking and falling off.  Not impressed of the quality at all to say the least.  Did not clear coat over them or alter them in any way.  The durability and longevity is not there.  Doubt at this point it's worth trying to get any kind of refund, that being said, I'd never buy them again.  Photos to come.




Well that's not good news. I'd hate to have to clear coat a new set of decals on old original paint after the install.


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## drglinski

Decals. I take care of this bike too.


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