# Calling All Aluminum Silver King Collectors



## BreezyRider (Nov 15, 2010)

I'm anxious to meet and correspond with others who are hooked on the aluminum Silver King bikes.  I live in Springfield, IL and disposed of my collection about 10 years ago.  I have only recently become interested again and am working to restore a couple of incomplete bikes.  I hope to hear from some of you with similar interests.  E-mail johnlambert46@gmail.com or text 217.725.3701


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## old hotrod (Nov 15, 2010)

I have one but I would be hard pressed to describe myself as hooked...good luck in your search, here is a recent pic of mine although it now has the battery tube and horn light. And I have sold the ladies toolbox seat and it now sports a long spring troxel
http://www.flickr.com/photos/david-quickpic/3419816520/in/set-72157602356066779/


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## vincev (Nov 15, 2010)

I have two of these in incomplete status with solid frames.


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## nomadman1956 (Nov 15, 2010)

Yea, I'd say Im hooked on them. In my previous collection I had a mens hex tube I sold I want back in the worst way. Just bought a plain hawthorn mens silver king off ebay to restart the collection

How many do you have?


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## supper15fiets (Nov 17, 2010)

i had  four of them, two girls, two boys,now only two boys,one wingbar and one "regulare" still looking for a fluted handlebar,winged stem, correct fenders, cheap toolbox saddle,ect,rather had the flo-cycle but a few years ago i bought a cheap wingbar frame, got the hex-shaped trusrods and the correct butterfly stand, the headlight is from a flo-cycle but i like this one better then the wingbar light....


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## chitown (Nov 17, 2010)

Here's my little fleet. I am still hunting for parts and will hopefully have them both gleaming and polished by next spring. I'm still looking for more examples of the M-537 which I believe is one of the models I have. The other I'm still researching the aluminum fenders and chain guard to see if they could have been stock or upgrades offered when 1st bought. I haven't seen any comparable examples yet.

Post some pictures of the ones you have. It's always good to see more survivors.

View attachment 14617
View attachment 14618
View attachment 14619
View attachment 14620


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## old hotrod (Nov 17, 2010)

Chris, I remember when you first posted the pics of the Monark and I let you know then that you had Shelby fenders and chainguard-remember? These are not Monark parts...there, research is done.


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## vincev (Nov 17, 2010)

is there any quick or easy way to get the frames polished?


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## old hotrod (Nov 18, 2010)

Quick and easy, pay someone else to do it...at least you didn't ask about cheap...it is a long process, not particularly hard but time consuming...


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Nov 18, 2010)

*People have always customized bicycles & vehicles*



old hotrod said:


> Chris, I remember when you first posted the pics of the Monark and I let you know then that you had Shelby fenders and chainguard-remember? These are not Monark parts...there, research is done.




The fenders as old hotrod stated -- even in the vintage photo -- are not OG equipment -- but people have always "messed" with things even in the 1938 photo -- they wanted their own one of a kind whatever -- just because you see it in an old family photo - it does not make it a original equipment bicycle --  

The fenders are Shelby in your pics ( look like 26" ) & the vintage photo -- the chain guard on yours is also from a Shelby from the same era -- the photo looks like a Shelby guard but the leg is in the way - but it look like the same one you put on yours 

Bicycles - especially after 70 years have may changed a few hands along the way - in that journey some parts may have been switched by the owners to their own liking & as we all know - almost any bicycle part can be made to fit another bicycle -- some fit well & some take a lot of tinkering -- if you like it -- then leave it that way -- it was never made like that - call it a mild custom retro mod -- have fun --


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## kingsilver (Nov 18, 2010)

*silver kings*

oopppppppps


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## kingsilver (Nov 18, 2010)

*silver kings*

great prewar bikes! here are my bikes: '37 flo-cycle and '36 m1 boys deluxe. '36 has the wrong chainguard, correct one is being plated.  i left all the deep scratches on the bikes and polished with aluminum polish. the flo-cycle has nos magna streamlined pedals bought from "balloonhead."


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## chitown (Nov 18, 2010)

old hotrod said:


> I let you know then that you had Shelby fenders and chainguard-remember? These are not Monark parts...there, research is done.




Dave, thanks for the memories.lol.  I guess reading your post on the earlier thread didn't seem as sure.  "...perhaps a Shelby" was what you said. Oh well, I kinda thought it was odd not to find one similar but being that it only had 1 owner before me and a picture from 1938 showed those parts on it, I thought perhaps there were bike suppliers who outfitted their rigs with different companies accessories including fenders, chainguards, handlebars etc...

Anyhow, I am still restoring to that photo all be it a mild, retro-mod. I'll call it a "pre-war modified pre-war". It's out of respect and admiration for the original owner, who's son I bought the bike from, that I am going to keep it as close to that pic as possible. And yes cyclone I am having fun and learning stuff everyday on this sight. Thanks to all who have helped with input.

KingSilver, those are some sweet rigs you've got!

Ronald, I love the pic of the antique shop with the wingbar.


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## kingsilver (Nov 18, 2010)

thanks!  i've had the bikes for six years. waiting for the correct chainguard on the m1 to be replated. the one on there now is the one found on the '37 m1boys deluxe.


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## kingsilver (Nov 18, 2010)

*silver king*

thank you all.


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## old hotrod (Nov 18, 2010)

chitown said:


> Dave, thanks for the memories.lol.  I guess reading your post on the earlier thread didn't seem as sure.  "...perhaps a Shelby" was what you said. Oh well, I kinda thought it was odd not to find one similar but being that it only had 1 owner before me and a picture from 1938 showed those parts on it, I thought perhaps there were bike suppliers who outfitted their rigs with different companies accessories including fenders, chainguards, handlebars etc..QUOTE]
> Chris, most companies had many variations of bike models available and sold through multiple channels so anything is possible...except yours of course. Since the bike is probably a late 35-36 model, it was probably a two-yearold bike that got "fixed up" before the pic was taken. The fenders are for a 26" bike and look to be from a Shelby (like the chainguard) but could have been from a couple of other makes that used the same style of fenders. I have a Silver King that I may be parting out and would be interested in the fenders and chainguard for a Shelby project if you ever want to make the bike correct.


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## BreezyRider (Nov 21, 2010)

Right now I have 6 Silver kings in various stages of restoration.  2 girls, a Wingbar, a Flocycle, a hex bar that I might consider selling or trading for Wingbar.  I also have a very rare 1934 open lug boys bike that I plan to sell.


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## zephyrblau (Dec 2, 2012)

*time to resurrect this thread*

got this a couple of months ago & am having fun riding it as well as researching some things. have a few questions if anyone can help. the hook has been set


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## Talewinds (Dec 2, 2012)

Well, the guy that originally started this thread has since, and once again, dispensed with his latest Silver King accumulation(a Hex, a Wing, and a Flo), and retired down to Florida and prefers to spend his fixed income on golf clubs and greens fees.

Nice looking bike Zephyrblau.


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## zephyrblau (Dec 2, 2012)

thanks for the kind words. 
... and now that I've seen a Flo-Cycle in the flesh... well, you can probably guess the rest :eek: 
one question I do have has to do w/ the front fork attaching setup. the attaching points are about 4 1/8" apart. the current arrangement simply has an extra nut per side to take up the slack. should this be a spacer of some sort ? 
also on the hunt for acorn nuts. 
any help appreciated. 
thanks again 
jerry


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## momona (Dec 2, 2012)

Been trying and trying to find one of these (chicago area) for a while now... no luck.  What is a fair price for a silverking male frame? Ebay just seems insanely high.  How do you guys have 4 bikes when i cant even track down one (that i can afford)?  What's the secret? 

Or is $2000-5000 the norm, and i'm just being cheap?  Dont care if its correct, just love the frame.  With christmas around the corner... wondering how i can convince the wife to let me get a $2000 bicycle.


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## zephyrblau (Dec 2, 2012)

depends on what you want. Hex tube ? Flo-cycle ? wingbar ? depending on the usual variables (condition, completeness & authenticity) those are at the top of the pile. if you're looking for the type pictured below, they're much cheaper. the seller of that bike couldn't get $1,000 for it, so he started parting it out. (i think the complete bike w/o accessories is still available & the seller is a good guy) 
...and the rule of thumb is that generally the prices will be friendlier among the brethren here than elsewhere. 
hang around, make friends, contribute when you can & be patient.  
for the record I have *one* Silver King, although I would like that number to be *two* 
HTH 
jerry


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## schwinnderella (Dec 2, 2012)

momona said:


> Been trying and trying to find one of these (chicago area) for a while now... no luck.  What is a fair price for a silverking male frame? Ebay just seems insanely high.  How do you guys have 4 bikes when i cant even track down one (that i can afford)?  What's the secret?
> 
> Or is $2000-5000 the norm, and i'm just being cheap?  Dont care if its correct, just love the frame.  With christmas around the corner... wondering how i can convince the wife to let me get a $2000 bicycle.



I am in suburban chicago.I have a couple of mens silver kings I would sell. Both are ridable,incomplete,and have some wrong parts. I would have to look for pictures if you are seriously interested. Bike one is the basic prewar 24". Bike two is a hextube. I do not wish to ship these bikes at this time. I would have to dig them out and check them out to quote accurate prices,likely around $400. and $1,000..


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## momona (Dec 2, 2012)

schwinnderella said:


> I am in suburban chicago.I have a couple of mens silver kings I would sell. Both are ridable,incomplete,and have some wrong parts. I would have to look for pictures if you are seriously interested. Bike one is the basic prewar 24". Bike two is a hextube. I do not wish to ship these bikes at this time. I would have to dig them out and check them out to quote accurate prices,likely around $400. and $1,000..




Just pm'd you.


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## momona (Dec 3, 2012)

*Who's is the silverKING?*

I realize it's all going to fall back on preference... But is there an order to the silverKING bikes? As far as collectibility or value...? 

I would assume a Wingbar would be somewhere near the top of the overall silver monarchy? But then again, I don't really even know how many different silverKING (aluminum) models there are. 

So what's the unofficial list?


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## cruiserbikekid (Dec 3, 2012)

Sorry to drop in on this thread but, I've posted others and had no luck. I'm looking for a correct rear 24" wheel for my silverking and have had no luck durring the 3 years I've owned the bike. I'd even take just a rim.
Anybody have one in their stock pile of parts they could let go?
Neil


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## petritl (Dec 4, 2012)

There is a 24" girls bike on eBay now. Someone painted it black with spray cans but it is resonably inexpensive .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330836797000?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I'm currently the high bidder but all I intended on doing is stripping the paint off ,keeping a few pieces and peddling the rest. If you need more than than just the wheels go after it...I'll step aside


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## zephyrblau (Dec 5, 2012)

another method is to watch the For Sale listings for a bike that (potentially) has your wheels & wait to see if it gets parted out. this just happened w/ a ladies Silver King about a month ago. 
just a thought 



cruiserbikekid said:


> Sorry to drop in on this thread but, I've posted others and had no luck. I'm looking for a correct rear 24" wheel for my silverking and have had no luck durring the 3 years I've owned the bike. I'd even take just a rim.
> Anybody have one in their stock pile of parts they could let go?
> Neil


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## petritl (Dec 6, 2012)

cruiserbikekid said:


> Sorry to drop in on this thread but, I've posted others and had no luck. I'm looking for a correct rear 24" wheel for my silverking and have had no luck durring the 3 years I've owned the bike. I'd even take just a rim.
> Anybody have one in their stock pile of parts they could let go?
> Neil




There are a pair of wheels in the for sale section, they are listed as Huffman but do they look correct to you? I sold those wheels to the seller, I took them off an Aluminum girls silver king

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...-double-drop-center-wheels-New-departure-hubs


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## abe lugo (Dec 6, 2012)

*the wheels I have were taken off a silver king*

So if anyone is interested please PM me.
They were listed as 20" when they actually are 24" wheels, I just talked to the petritl  and he mentioned he took them off a Girls Silverking.

I'll be editing the ad right now.
Abe


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## cruiserbikekid (Dec 6, 2012)

Hey thanks for the  tips boys! I looked at the Huffman ones and I'm afraid that they are a little too krusty for me. Ill look at the ones on the eBay girls bike if you are willing to sell. Again I'm only into the rear or maybe just the hoop. Thanks again!


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## scrubbinrims (Dec 6, 2012)

momona said:


> I realize it's all going to fall back on preference... But is there an order to the silverKING bikes? As far as collectibility or value...?
> 
> I would assume a Wingbar would be somewhere near the top of the overall silver monarchy? But then again, I don't really even know how many different silverKING (aluminum) models there are.
> 
> So what's the unofficial list?




I went to grab a hotdog and some fresh air at Copake last Spring and missed the auction of a 37 Silver King catalogue I had really wanted... just lost track in the frenzy.

In '37 there was both the Flocycle '36-37 and the Wingbar '37-38 produced in the same year, the only year both of these models was produced at the same time (to my knowledge).
The pricing would have revealed your answer, at least, as the manufacturer saw it.

The top of the Silver King Monarchy is debatable between these two as far as balloon tires.

An aside...as far as boy's rareity, the '39 26X is the rarest, the wingbar and flocycle are both about the same, the '46-48 hextube being not as (low production, but not scrapped for the war either), and the M1 being the most common (grouping deluxe and non-deluxe models together).

The wingbar has a HTF rack and a VERY hard to find finned hornlight that the flocycle doesn't (no rack, jeweled long cone Delta on SK, non-jeweled short cone Hawthorne), but the flocycle has the piecrust crank, a shock-absorbing frame, and the speedo neck.
They share they same toolbox saddle and in '37 anyway, the same hex truss rods and hex bars of note (although flo truss rods are speedo drilled).
If parted out as they were provided in '37, the flocycle has the edge, but if the wingbar was upgraded with the speedo neck assembly, it would be the victor as the flo dosen't accomodate a rack.

As far as value on a SK, it swings widely on the rare bits being present and variation by year/model and most SK's you come across have more that a little missing, besides condition obviously.
I have seen all of the boys models except for a 26x go for various prices under various circumstances, the 26X I have not seen for sale in the market although rareity alone might not carrier it above the flo and wingbar tricked out, not having as many options/big $ components.
The 5K hextube at Copake was an anomaly, don't be discouraged basing prices on that one , but you are going to have to step up to own the upper monarchy.

Chris


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## Tin machine (Dec 6, 2012)

*this is my  MONARK sliver king*

this is my two cents folks , where would you rate it , be nice please !!!


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## momona (Dec 9, 2012)

*1948 silver kahuna hextube!!!!!!!!*

Finally joined the monarchy.

Should the fenders be stainless steel? Not sure where i read that. Rear could be original, but front has me thinking. rear is not magnetic, front is. Chime in if this sounds like crazy talk.


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## momona (Dec 9, 2012)

Great write up scrubbin, thanks.


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## momona (Dec 9, 2012)

*1948 silver kahuna hextube!!!!*

geez... can i get some love? that's a bad booty bike right there! ^^^^


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## momona (Dec 17, 2012)

*what happened to this thread?*

this thread really died... can anyone post pics of their silver king collection, or bikes?


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## npence (Dec 17, 2012)

This is my one and only silver king. And one of my favorite bikes. Pictures really don't give these bikes justice.


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## momona (Dec 17, 2012)

How often do these pop up for sale.... The wingbars? Ran a couple searches and can't find any, anywhere. 


 Is anyone on here still finding these?


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## kingsilver (Dec 18, 2012)

*silver kings*

my silver kings m1 deluxe and flo-cycle


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## ace (Dec 18, 2012)

Had these two for awhile but haven't gotten around to cleaning them up. First year of production I believe. The boys even has the original molded rubber seat.


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## momona (Dec 18, 2012)

*sweet!!!*

keep'um coming, these bikes are awesome!  any stories on how you got them?--- especially the more rare models?


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## momona (Dec 18, 2012)

*almost done polishing...*

I know some of you are thinking "what polish"? But it does actually look better up close.


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Dec 18, 2012)

*Copperking - My Rat Rod window frame Silverking*

*I built this one for a build off earlier this year & ended up with a bicycle that I love to ride -- the first shot is how I got the bicycle - then the mock-up - then the final result - no Silverkings were hurt in the making of this boardtrack racer - there were no modifications made to fit the 24 X 3 inch wide tires on it - the modern rims are 24 x 2 inch wide & copper powder coated for the look along with the seat springs on the Brooks B33 saddle -- RIDE VINTAGE -- Frank*


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## momona (Dec 18, 2012)

*Droooool...*

That thing is awesome. Think I'm gonna try these tires out on my frame! 

Thick bricks, right?


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Dec 20, 2012)

*Thanks*



momona said:


> That thing is awesome. Think I'm gonna try these tires out on my frame!
> 
> Thick bricks, right?




*Yep - Thick Bricks that were on a buddies wife's bike & they already had a cool vintage patina on them when I put them on - My buddy Jay builds up one of a kind custom creation FAT TIRE bikes - really cool stuff - his shop is in Costa Mesa CA & is called MODE BIKES & you can get the tires through him at a good price & quick turn around - he has a website too under the same name - The bikes are modern frames from Felt mostly & some of his own design & the parts he uses are also various modern & custom one off parts he finds & designs & when his bikes are finished they are modern custom one off bicycles with a vintage retro look - he also does electric custom FAT TIRE bikes - Going by & hanging out with Jay & his creations inspired me to do the Copperking build up -- I am working on another FAT TIRE project & will post pics here when I get it all worked out in my mind & finish the hunting & gathering of parts & actually start to build it up -- RIDE VINTAGE -- Frank *


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## zephyrblau (Dec 20, 2012)

*'47 Hex tube*

in the collection of a fellow CABEr for 27 years. rides as good as she looks


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## gifarmer (Dec 21, 2012)

*Red & Black Tires*

I saw this hex-tube for sale on eBay a couple years ago and the seller claimed it had the original Royal Master tires - black with red sidewalls.  Can anyone confirm that this is how the original tires looked?
Also, does anyone have any ideas how to color the tread on a modern red tire black to look like this?


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## momona (Dec 23, 2012)

*new bike!!*

Questions....

1. What is original? What is wrong?
2. Is the seat post, and clamp supposed to be like this? Or the quill version?
3. Every piece on the frame has a "k" stamped on it.... from factory?
4. Year? 193?
5. There is a hole in the bottom of the fork... near where the wheels are attached, for speedo?
6. Kick stand?
7. What are these fenders originally from?

I received a very fair price on this from a fellow caber... just trying to figure out what i have. Dont care about it being original--but just want to know what is right and what is not.  The seat post and clamp is the biggest thing i would like to get cleared up. 

Thank you all!! And Happy Holidays!!


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## zephyrblau (Dec 23, 2012)

gifarmer said:


> I saw this hex-tube for sale on eBay a couple years ago and the seller claimed it had the original Royal Master tires - black with red sidewalls.  Can anyone confirm that this is how the original tires looked?




in a recent conversation with Chester "Monark Man" Andrachick he indicated that these were original tires for a hex tube. 
said he paid $450 for a NOS pair. 



> Also, does anyone have any ideas how to color the tread on a modern red tire black to look like this?




India ink ?


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## momona (Dec 23, 2012)

*... a little help?*



momona said:


> Questions....
> 
> 1. What is original? What is wrong?
> 2. Is the seat post, and clamp supposed to be like this? Or the quill version?
> ...




where's all those monark minds? could use some help, thanks.


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## MaxGlide (Dec 23, 2012)

*My Hex Tube....*

Well I got this from a fellow in San Fran and spent may hours polishing it.... still need fenders, guard and rack. I am thinking of painting some fenders and a guard I got a translucent green.

I love how it rides....

Wayne


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## scrubbinrims (Dec 23, 2012)

zephyrblau said:


> in a recent conversation with Chester "Monark Man" Andrachick he indicated that these were original tires for a hex tube.
> said he paid $450 for a NOS pair.
> 
> 
> ...




Red walls were 1948 only for the hextube ('47 had blackwalls).

Chris


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## gifarmer (Dec 23, 2012)

zephyrblau said:


> in a recent conversation with Chester "Monark Man" Andrachick he indicated that these were original tires for a hex tube.
> said he paid $450 for a NOS pair.
> India ink ?



Maybe it would be better to get some white sidewalls and color the white red. Then they'd have black tread with red sidewalls. Any ideas how to do that?


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## zephyrblau (Jan 6, 2013)

Chris; 
thanks for the clarification. not sure I remember Chester mentioning a specific year. I DO remember being stunned by the price quoted :eek: at least that's one thing to be thankful for about having a '47.



scrubbinrims said:


> Red walls were 1948 only for the hextube ('47 had blackwalls).
> 
> Chris


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## geech34-2nd (Feb 6, 2013)

*Silverking Aluminum*

Nice to see people interested in these old bikes. I have a few Alum SK's including this 26X. I'm looking for a Wing Bar & a FloCycle.  Bare frames even would be a start but must be nice ones, no welds & not all marked up. I'd also like to find other people who have 26X bikes.  Good luck, Thad


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## chitown (Feb 6, 2013)

Here are two that are finished. 1936 M2 and L2.

I'm currently working on a late '35 early '36 Montgomery Wards version and a retro-rat version of the '36 M2.


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## catfish (Feb 6, 2013)

Very cool! Did they ever offer a color option on Silver Kings?


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## chitown (Feb 6, 2013)

catfish said:


> Very cool! Did they ever offer a color option on Silver Kings?




It was a 1936 only option. Described in the catalog as "imported dyes" they were offered in Red, Blue, Green or Black. 

Original versions are out there but very few. There was one on American Pickers that they ignored and talked about other bikes (probably because it was a girls bike)

Here are some of the only pics I have of one with original dye. It was on a Milwaukee craigslist ad a couple years back. I emailed the poster but never got a reply and the post was only up for a couple days.

View attachment 83017View attachment 83018View attachment 83019


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## kingsilver (Feb 7, 2013)

*M1 deluxe and flo-cycle    2012 "rolling relics" alameda and san francisco rides.*


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## momona (Feb 7, 2013)

*wow!*

those bikes are sweet... looks like that old guy is getting ready to roll away with your flocycle!


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## slowroller1842 (Feb 7, 2013)

Wow, there are some really sweet rides displayed in this thread!

Thanks Chitown for the info on the colored 1936 frame option.  That's really cool... I had no idea they offered that.

I joined the Silver King Club last year with the purchase of a 1947 Hex tube project. At this point I only have the frame, gooseneck, sprocket, saddle, and a badly damaged fork.  I was planning to build it up like MaxGlides just to get her riding and then add the rest of the parts on whenever I could, (fenders, chainguard, etc.). The fork issue has got me scratchin' my head though, since I can't seem to find a replacment and fixing the one I have looks to be a challenge. 



 

Here's a prewar Silver King question I have...

I have this SK badge that I'm trying to pinpoint the year of.  It's similar to the 1935 badge only the color is different and it says MONARK SILVER KING INC instead of MONARK BATTERY CO.  Also, it says MONARK in block letters on the top part of the badge instead of script. It seems like it must be 35 or 36 since it only has the one patent number? The red paint on it is left over from an old overpaint.


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## chitown (Feb 8, 2013)

That badge would be a late '35 early '36. Before they had multiple models in the '36 catalogs such as the M1, M2 and M5. Frame would not have windowed lugs but still had the seat post collar instead of the later expansion bolt seat post. Would have had the Delta Silver Ray light and I think they still had the steel handlebars with cross-bar at this point.

Good luck on the *Hexotube* tm


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## 37fleetwood (Feb 8, 2013)

this one moved down the street to the neighbors house. I don't think it liked all the Huffys at my place.


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## chitown (Feb 8, 2013)

37fleetwood said:


> I don't think it liked all the Huffys at my place.




Maybe the Huffy's didn't give the Silver King it's due respect and acknowledge it's shared past. 

Remember Horace Huffman was George Lewis' secretary in 1925 when they formed the Dayton Rolled Metal Co with manufacturing equipment from Mead... so I think they would actually get along just fine. In fact Silver Kings would get along with Schwinn's (Lewis forming bank with Ignaz in 1915) and HP Snyders (took over Monark production post Aluminum/Chicago production)... even with Mr Ponzi himself Colonel Pope and his antique armory style production (Mead sold manufacturing equipment to Westfield in '25).

The Silver King was the crowning achievement for Lewis who had spent years pioneering manufacturing techniques to be used by most of the major manufacturers of the time... including Huffman.

Mead 1911

View attachment 83232

Huffman 1937

View attachment 83233


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## momona (Mar 13, 2013)

*advice or parts??*

recently got my hands on a wingbar frame... trying to piece it together to get it rolling again (not worried about it being correct, just rideable).  

is there anyone here that has a wingbar/equivalent quill seat post? OR!?? is there any DIY way to rig up something that would work? 

basically... the only thing the bike needs right now that i haven't already ordered... is a seat post... I have a hextube, and i could use that one (if anyone knows if they are the same size, haven't pulled it off to try yet...) but that could become annoying if i have to constantly take it on and off... none of my bikes sit, i ride'em all.  

let me know if there's a remedy to this... or if you have something that'll fit?


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## zephyrblau (Mar 13, 2013)

expanding seat post should do the trick. I think this is what your hex tube has. (originally the wingbar would have had an expanding 
"7" seat post) shouldn't be too hard to find. it will probably be 3/4" diameter. if the wingbar seat tube is 13/16" you will also need the thin sleeve. ML has these for about $2. let's see some pix !


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## momona (Mar 13, 2013)

*thanks!*

ml? thanks for the info!!! i'll check it out.

I WILL I WILL POST PICS... tires should come in tomorrow... i'm just a little nervous because i know people here will freak out over what i'm doing with this "wingbar" frame. 

i'm gonna shake a couple people up when they see this thing hahaha


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## momona (Mar 13, 2013)

*hmmm.....*

does anyone know if this would fit? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-13-...259?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58959cf3cb


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## chitown (Mar 13, 2013)

momona said:


> does anyone know if this would fit?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-13-...259?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58959cf3cb




That is the style you need. Not sure on the size though. The "7" seat post is a 1936 feature, so the straight tapered one is for the "WingBar" you've got.

As long as you're not turning it into a "Spicy Buffalo Wild Wings Bar" theme bike, I think most us adults can take it. There are many RatRoders here. Though you might get an honorary virtual cyber slap on the wrist, I look forward to seeing this new creature you are breathing life into.


----------



## momona (Mar 14, 2013)

*Seat tube...*

Hextube seat post doesn't fit in a Wingbar.  Any suggestions?

...this WAS plan A.


----------



## momona (Mar 15, 2013)

*question...*

can someone with a wingbar frame... and quill seat post... take a measurement for me???

i measured the hole for the seat post... and i have it at 22mm

... there's a seat post on ebay... that's 13/16 .... that should kinda work, right? and i could always slide a sleeve if it's too small, right? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-13-...170&pid=100015&prg=1006&rk=1&sd=380467213259&


----------



## npence (Mar 15, 2013)

I measured my wing bar seat post for you and it is 13/16. Hope this helps any other question please ask.


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## zephyrblau (Mar 15, 2013)

the seat POST on my hex tube is 13/16" but I am also using a sleeve. my guess is the seat TUBE is 7/8". this corresponds to your 
22MM measurement. 
HTH


----------



## momona (Mar 15, 2013)

*hhmm...*

it does help.  so a 7/8 seat tube i can find... is there an easy way to convert a regular seat tube into an expandable one??


----------



## zephyrblau (Mar 15, 2013)

easy ? not from my perspective. I can explain how to do it, if it's not aparrent. I converted a 10" standard post for use on my hex, because the 7" it came with wasn't doing it for me. 
were it me, I'd go for the ready made 13/16 expandable post, add a $2 sleeve & call it a day. 
but... backing up a bit... I'm not sure I understand why the one on your hex doesn't swap to the winbar.


----------



## chitown (Mar 15, 2013)

zephyrblau said:


> I'm not sure I understand why the one on your hex doesn't swap to the wingbar.




The base model Silver Kings I've seen have factory shims in them. They had a lip/flanged built in them as to not slip into the seat tube. Not sure about the Wingbar, but I would assume it was the same as the base models. It may be that the shim is missing?


----------



## momona (Mar 15, 2013)

*hexbar*

when i tried to use the hexbar tube on the wingbar... it felt like it WANTED to go in... but i would have had to hammer it in most of the way... COULD NOT get it in by hand. 

thought about sanding it down... and it would probably fit in the wingbar... but wouldn't fit the hex anymore... and i'd be back with the same problem, different bike. 

i think that shim idea will work... i think i'll try that.


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## Wing Your Heel (Mar 17, 2013)

*Hextube*


----------



## gifarmer (Mar 17, 2013)

I like bikes to be original, with only some period accessories added, but I've got to admit that those wheels really look nice on your hextube!


----------



## Sped Man (Mar 17, 2013)

Here is a photo of mine. It is a work in progress. I recently found a beautiful crank and sprocket on Ebay for $38 shipped. I also found the chrome chainguard for $52 shipped. It will be here soon. I only need the rack and fork.


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## momona (Mar 17, 2013)

*pics as promised*

57MM Wheels on thick bricks... took some work but everything fits, no rubbing...  still trying to solve my seatpost problem... hopefully before sunny weather gets here.

Inspired by cyclonecoasters bike on ratrodbikes...


----------



## Wing Your Heel (Mar 18, 2013)

*cocking a snook*



gifarmer said:


> I like bikes to be original, with only some period accessories added, but I've got to admit that those wheels really look nice on your hextube!




Obviously we prefer original bikes. I drink patina for breakfast lunch and dinner. But restoring bikes to original spec is my fulltime job. I complete and sell over 100 of those a year, and do many more for myself. Sometimes it's hard to distinguish between job and hobby. 

Despite my own personal preference for originality, surely original spec is a preference NOT a religion? And aren't alternative vehicles an antidote to bureaucracy? Do not be afraid to like anything that challenges the 'rules' 

To keep pedantry in check, every winter i do a creative custom for my own pleasure. I did this Hextube a few years ago. In a few weeks I'll launch my latest creation for my 'spring collection.' It involves the total destruction of a valuable vintage bicycle, will devastate vintage hobbyists worldwide, and is my most evil project so far 

(As yet no emoticon can express this level of despicable laughter)

ha ha


----------



## Ranger Dan (Mar 18, 2013)

Wing Your Heel said:


> It involves the total destruction of a valuable vintage bicycle, will devastate vintage hobbyists worldwide, and is my most evil project so far
> 
> (As yet no emoticon can express this level of despicable laughter)
> 
> ha ha




I think if I were a banker I'd want to fund both sides of this conflict.


----------



## babyjesus (Mar 18, 2013)

gifarmer said:


> I saw this hex-tube for sale on eBay a couple years ago and the seller claimed it had the original Royal Master tires - black with red sidewalls.  Can anyone confirm that this is how the original tires looked?




That's my bike - it has been further discussed that the redwalls were only orig to '48 Hextubes but that is all based on the words of one person who seems to boast that he knows everything and nobody else does (L.Dixon) - so I personally would prefer to see it in a catalog or somewhere I can trust it.  That being said the bike has been tampered with because the stem is also from the late 30's so the tires being later than the bike is nonetheless possible.


----------



## momona (Apr 3, 2013)

*key key keysss!!?*

Wingbar guys??? does anyone have a locking fork with the key??? if you do, could you post a pic of the key itself... does anyone know if these can be replaced?  honestly... i don't need the key to even work... just want something that will fit into the key hole.... just for looks. 

...got an ace hardware near me... was hoping they would have something i could cram in there! thanks!


----------



## Sped Man (Apr 3, 2013)

momona said:


> 57MM Wheels on thick bricks... took some work but everything fits, no rubbing...  still trying to solve my seatpost problem... hopefully before sunny weather gets here.
> 
> Inspired by cyclonecoasters bike on ratrodbikes...




What is the problem with the seat post?


----------



## momona (Apr 3, 2013)

Fixed it... Took me a while to find the right size quill post.  Found something that ended up working.

Now I'm just looking for a blank key that will fit inside the Wingbar keyhole...  Maybe hang some mini fuzzy dice from the key chain!!! Hhaha


----------



## momona (Jun 27, 2013)

*Anyone....*

Time to wipe the dust off of this old thread.... Any new pics?


----------



## scrubbinrims (Jun 27, 2013)

Perhaps the nicest 26x in the hobby was delivered and changed hands at Copake this past April...maybe the new owner wants to post pics.
That bike is stunning.
Chris


----------



## Sped Man (Jun 27, 2013)

momona said:


> Time to wipe the dust off of this old thread.... Any new pics?




Post a photo of your Silver Kings. I would like to see your Hextube. Gotta love Silver King. Aluminum frames are awesome. Nothing to paint just polish. When they are polished watch out. I get tons of compliments.


----------



## ohdeebee (Jun 27, 2013)




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## babyjesus (Jun 27, 2013)

*Hex*

A few pics of my hex - somebody on here was asking about the tires - it's already appeared on cabe so this is just a repost in some sense.















Also my wingbar pair



 



and then flocycle














And 26X which I haven't got here yet

















I'm also building a very old model with window lugs now and huuuuge aluminium fenders and a rack similar to the usual kind in style but older and more square shaped.

By the way my experience with these old aluminium bikes is basically don't ride them or if you do be very gentle and don't stand on the pedals. I have another flocycle which snapped one top tube mid ride - I have never in my life felt so horrified or ashame - it scared the sh*t out of me.  I am even scared to ride the hextube too hard which is a good 10 years newer.  I also don't want to damage the tires too much and I don't want to take them off - they seem glued on almost and I am guessing might have been on since the beginning of time.  I kind of love and hate these bikes for that reason. I don't have a single crack in the boys wingbar but it still scares me to stand on the pedals. Old duralium has to be about the crappiest material in the whole wide world. It has a memory for crapness - it only gets weaker and weaker. I like to ride my every singe bike because that's what they are for but I'm not sure I will even sit on the 26x - that thing looks about as weakly designed as a flocycle and some. All the flexible metal is nice when it's new but total nonsense years later. As I'm sure you all well know this metal has a memory for deterioiration. Once it bends it just gets weaker and weaker never flexing back into position without leaving a serious slack to where it just bent to.  The 26x doesn't have a leaf spring to be fair but those 2 top tubes are not even as thick as my thumb. 

I also think that the old 5bar / 26x penicl springers look great but go on the list as being the worst springer ever made in history. They are slight shock absorbers at most. Better than nothing but perhaps not even worth all the weight. But the look bad*ss.


----------



## cyclonecoaster.com (Jun 28, 2013)

*Ink & Iron Wingbar 2013 .................*

*Built this up for the local Ink & Iron Show @ the Queen Mary here in Long Beach CA a couple weeks back where we had a display inside the old Spruce Goose Dome of many top notch restored & original bicycles ... The crowd was loving the bicycles ..

Please note that NO WINGBARS were harmed in the build of this bicycle & I have the complete original bicycle & it's parts
 ... NOTHING modified - shaved - stretched - notched .... frame & fork completely stock except for the polishing ... All new modern drive train with vintage stem & grips .... the wheels were polished then powdercoated to achieve this look ...

Ride Vintage .. Frank*


----------



## Sped Man (Jun 29, 2013)

Very nice looking bikes!


----------



## Sped Man (Jun 29, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> A few pics of my hex - somebody on here was asking about the tires - it's already appeared on cabe so this is just a repost in some sense.
> 
> View attachment 102412View attachment 102413View attachment 102414View attachment 102415View attachment 102416View attachment 102417
> 
> ...






Your Flocycle top tube snapped while riding? Wow! Anyone else experiencing similar problems? You got me worried. I ride in Chicago where there are tons of pot holes. I didn't realize that these cool bikes had these problems. Is there anything that can be done to prevent a frame from coming undone like welding joints or applying an adhesive?


----------



## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jun 29, 2013)

These frames are very delicate. That is why there are very few good frames left.
Old broken frames can be restored by removing the broken Duralumin tubes and replacing them with titanium tubing. You could even replace them with 316L stainless steel tubing.
Both types of tubing bend easily, are very strong and polish to a very bright finish.
You can polish all of the cast aluminum pieces of the frame after the tubes are removed much easier than when the frame is rebuilt.


----------



## Sped Man (Jun 29, 2013)

I guess I won't be jumping over any more stairs. Dam# it~ !


----------



## kingsilver (Jun 29, 2013)

*Calling all munimula silver king collectors*



Sped Man said:


> I guess I won't be jumping over any more stairs. Dam# it~ !




I GUESS EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN OPINION ABOUT SILVER KING DURALIUM/ALUMINUM FRAME WEAKNESS - BENT TOP TUBE - SNAPPED REAR AXLE STAYS,ETC. I RIDE MY '37 FLO-CYCLE AND M1 ALL THE TIME. I'VE BEEN ON THE "ROLLING RELICS" RIDE LAST YEAR FROM PIER 39 SAN FRANCISCO ACROSS THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE TO SAUSALITO. I WAS OFF THE SEAT A COUPLE TIMES GOING UP SOME OF THOSE STEEP HILLS. OTHER RIDES WERE THE ALAMEDA AND THE "CYCLONE COASTER" RIDE IN LONG BEACH,CA. . I'M SURE THESE BIKES WERE ABUSED AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER BY THE KIDS WHO OWNED THEM THRU THE YEARS. MAYBE RIDERS WEIGHT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH METAL FATIGUE?  WHO KNOWS?


----------



## kingsilver (Jun 29, 2013)

*Calling all munimula silver king collectors*

One thing i can tell you for sure - the flo-cycle is one of the most beautiful prewar bikes.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jun 29, 2013)

It is a rolling piece of art!


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> It is a rolling piece of art!




I agree - rolling art - and compared to all others of the time - totally different and with a concept of their own.  

Aluminium/duralium is horrible when it's that old.

I weigh a measly 64kg - no idea what that is in lbs - but it snapped right before the headtube on the right hand top tube.  That was my first flocycle.

You can see I temporarily covered it for this photo:






...well it's hard to see but there's a bracket around it where the tube snapped.  

I don't trust this kind of metal which is very annoying because I have collected just about every bike of this kind you can have. The feeling you get when you are riding a Flocycle and the top tube snaps is one of great almighty shame.  I walked the bike home feeling like a real twot.  Flocycles with their leaf spring require the metal tubing to be felxible but after 70 years that becomes 'crackable'.


----------



## kingsilver (Jun 30, 2013)

Wow 141 lbs. - that's light - i'm 170 lbs.


----------



## kingsilver (Jun 30, 2013)

SOME DETAIL IMAGES OF MY '37 FLO-CYCLE:


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## kingsilver (Jun 30, 2013)

MORE DETAILS OF THE '37 FLO-CYCLE:


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## Sped Man (Jun 30, 2013)

Is there anything that can be done to prevent a frame from coming undone like welding joints or applying an adhesive? What did you do Babyjesus to resolve this problem to your bikes?


----------



## kingsilver (Jun 30, 2013)




----------



## kingsilver (Jun 30, 2013)

more


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## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

Sped Man said:


> Is there anything that can be done to prevent a frame from coming undone like welding joints or applying an adhesive? What did you do Babyjesus to resolve this problem to your bikes?




Good question - so far nothing but I'll have to repair the break and ride other bikes I suppose. I don't like it because I want to ride all my bikes.  My solution - get a new one:

















That cracked flo was my first 'high end' bike from when I first started collecting. It sits waiting to be repaired. I have a very nice hex tube too but it has a tiny hairline crack in the bottom of the crank housing. I'd like to know if I can do something about it so I can ride it. Can I fill it with some kind of glue?  Its on the bottom of the BB so it is not visible. I so badly want to ride it and it's just driving me nuts having it sitting in front of me in my living room. I have heard there are many kinds of 'glue' that work very well. I need to solve this issue so I can ride it.

Kingsilver - nice darn flocycle man!  I see yours also has a butterfly stand attached behind the leaf.  Infact it's a stunning bike all around - wow.


----------



## Sped Man (Jun 30, 2013)

You could use Loctite for the Flocycle head tube. Did it just pop out or it broke further out? If it broke further out and you have a replacement tube,  you could use this to lock it in. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htm or you could use Partite 3750. There are several good write up on the product. It is also vibration resistance. Very strong. Here is the web site http://www.parsonadhesives.com/partite-parbond/methacrylate-adhesives.htm


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> more




Kingsilver - I accuse you of blatantly posting pornographic images of bicycles.  It shouldn't be allowed


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## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

Sped Man said:


> You could use Loctite for the Flocycle head tube. If you already have a need tube to put in you could use this to lock it in. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htm




yes a thinner tube inside you mean? For a start. And then that.  Fine for the top tube issue but the BB crack is scary - maybe it would work if I could somehow squeeze it into the crack but it's very thin. I could also glue a plate over it I suppose.


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## kingsilver (Jun 30, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> kingsilver - i accuse you of blatantly posting pornographic images of bicycles.  It shouldn't be allowed




i'm guilty babyjesus - thank you! Your flo-cycle IS as nice....


----------



## carlitos60 (Jun 30, 2013)

*This is Mine!      Although For Sale!!!!!*

This is One of my First Vintage Bikes and I have Enjoyed the Heck Out of It!!!!

Unfortunately Is Up for Grabs as of Yesterday!!! Is on the FS Post if Interested!

Thanks!

   $800 Shipped!!!

I polished it by Hand Only!


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## old hotrod (Jun 30, 2013)

The bad part about the aluminum bikes is that as they age, the material (cast and extruded tubes) tend to get harder and more brittle. The good part, aluminum fabrication and more importantly, welding, has come a long way in the last 70+ years. I would just have an "experienced" welder fix the cracked bottom bracket. Aluminum is very easy to work with and repair in the right hands. I have seen and ridden several bikes with repairs that were at least as good as the original. 
My silverking always had a faint creak but never let me down despite hauling my 200lb payload around so there are exceptions.


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

Sped Man said:


> You could use Loctite for the Flocycle head tube. Did it just pop out or it broke further out? If it broke further out and you have a replacement tube,  you could use this to lock it in. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htm or you could use Partite 3750. There are several good write up on the product. It is also vibration resistance. Very strong. Here is the web site http://www.parsonadhesives.com/partite-parbond/methacrylate-adhesives.htm




Thanks Sped Man that's great info. It snapped before the head tube/lug - it didn't pop out.  I tried loosening it from inside the head (there's an allen bolt inside with a big hole in the front so you can reach in with a key and undo it - under the headbadge - but no chance so I can't replace the whole bar. It will need to be re-welded or glue basically using something like you just linked.


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

Sped Man said:


> You could use Loctite for the Flocycle head tube. Did it just pop out or it broke further out? If it broke further out and you have a replacement tube,  you could use this to lock it in. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_weld_t/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Weld-Bonding-Compound.htm or you could use Partite 3750. There are several good write up on the product. It is also vibration resistance. Very strong. Here is the web site http://www.parsonadhesives.com/partite-parbond/methacrylate-adhesives.htm




Just to show you guys what I'm talking about - argh it sux.  So here's my beautiful hextube upside down





.....and here you should be able to see the hairline crack in about the worst place a hairline crack could be.  Please tell me none of you would risk riding this.  I think the owner before the last owner rode it.  I know the last owner didn't. I think he must have ridden it with crack and not seen it. Maybe it would carry on just fine but I am not about to try and find out 





Pretty hard to get something in the crack but the good thing is it's not visible if the job is a bit messy - once you flip her round again


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 30, 2013)

*....and*

....since this is a thread about alu SKs - here are 2 interesting artifacts.

A very rare older window lug frame rack - wider and more square to the normal racks. 

And an alu SK aftermarket tank - which by the way sadly doesn't fit on the window lug frame because that frame has a bit of a fin on the back of the head tube preventing it from properly fitting in place. Nice plan but I will have to put it back on a regular frame. It takes batteries but it's sad to take the battery tube off so I just had both 





...by the way it sits on the lower bar covering it entirely - you can see from the pic I guess. So you only see the top bar once it's on. Looks super cool tho


----------



## old hotrod (Jun 30, 2013)

Get it welded and ride the snot out of it...no big deal to me...someone rode it with the bottom bracket cones loose for a long time, the cup rattled around and and eventually cracked the housing. Get it welded, the cups might not fit properly afterward so locate a bike builder in your area to lightly remachine the opening to fit the cup square and tight...no big deal...sell it to me and see how quickly it gets fixed...


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jun 30, 2013)

Maybe the factory never heat treated the cast aluminum pieces?


----------



## old hotrod (Jul 1, 2013)

The tanks are listed in the catalogs as universal fit for most bikes, not specifically silverking...but do look cool on the aluminum bikes for sure...


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 1, 2013)

old hotrod said:


> The tanks are listed in the catalogs as universal fit for most bikes, not specifically silverking...but do look cool on the aluminum bikes for sure...




Really?  It fits perfectly on a standard boys - just not the early one. Good to know, thanks.


----------



## PINOYRODDER (Jul 1, 2013)

cyclonecoaster.com said:


> *Built this up for the local Ink & Iron Show @ the Queen Mary here in Long Beach CA a couple weeks back where we had a display inside the old Spruce Goose Dome of many top notch restored & original bicycles ... The crowd was loving the bicycles ..
> 
> Please note that NO WINGBARS were harmed in the build of this bicycle & I have the complete original bicycle & it's parts
> ... NOTHING modified - shaved - stretched - notched .... frame & fork completely stock except for the polishing ... All new modern drive train with vintage stem & grips .... the wheels were polished then powdercoated to achieve this look ...
> ...




the sickest wingbar eveeeeeeeeeeer! what crank is that?


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 1, 2013)

1936 SILVER KING M1 DELUXE


----------



## zephyrblau (Jul 1, 2013)

*Busted !*

guilty as charged  I've been straightening a few things out & working on the wiring & horn. too many projects & distractions. sometimes life gets in the way of more important things. pix (hopefully) soon. I think we can both agree that mine isn't nearly as nice as Marcs museum piece. that thing's almost too nice to ride! 



scrubbinrims said:


> Perhaps the nicest 26x in the hobby was delivered and changed hands at Copake this past April...maybe the new owner wants to post pics.
> That bike is stunning.
> Chris


----------



## zephyrblau (Jul 1, 2013)

Marc; 
absolutely STUNNING example of an extremely rare bike. congratulations! 
mine came with a Troxel streamline saddle (think; toolbox w/o the trap door) I think yours is correct. can you ID it for me ? 
I'll be joining the show & tell soon. promise


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> 1936 SILVER KING M1 DELUXE




aw damn that is nice!  This thread is getting heavy!  By the way I have only 2 stems like that and one is on my Hextube - it shouldn't but - but anyway the sad story is that during shipping one of the 'wings' got snapped off.  I have to 'stick' it back on but the whole side it was attached to got bent in a bit.


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

zephyrblau said:


> Marc;
> absolutely STUNNING example of an extremely rare bike. congratulations!
> mine came with a Troxel streamline saddle (think; toolbox w/o the trap door) I think yours is correct. can you ID it for me ?
> I'll be joining the show & tell soon. promise




I'd keep the streamline saddle on yours - I think they are even cooler than the toolbox saddle - they just look better.

I'll have to get back to you about the saddle - I'm not certain it's correct although you are right about them coming with a regular long spring saddle.


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

zephyrblau said:


> Marc;
> absolutely STUNNING example of an extremely rare bike. congratulations!
> mine came with a Troxel streamline saddle (think; toolbox w/o the trap door) I think yours is correct. can you ID it for me ?
> I'll be joining the show & tell soon. promise




It's a NOS persons saddle - not technically correct I think but to be totally honest I'm not 100% sure.  It's a beautiful saddle.


----------



## PINOYRODDER (Jul 2, 2013)

I'll be riding my hex soon , it needs some TLC , i'll be posting pics soon


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

THERE'S GOT TO BE MORE ALUMINUM SILVER KINGS OUT THERE !!! PLEASE POST THEM !!!


----------



## scrubbinrims (Jul 2, 2013)

Someone got a fair deal on this one, listing modified to 1350.00 BIN prematurely...

I am starting to believe some flocycles had smooth truss rods as opposed to hex.
The rear fender was swapped though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-Hawtho...57snQ%2BskzhZtqVxWV0w%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Chris


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

DETAIL OF SILVER KING WINGED STEM. IS THAT A TORRINGTON LOGO ON PHOTO # 4 ?


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> DETAIL OF SILVER KING WINGED STEM. IS THAT A TORRINGTON LOGO ON PHOTO # 4 ?




I have 2 of these - one is cracked above the wedge but totally useable and fine - can't even see it and the other (on me hextube) needs a wing glued back on because it moved around in the shipping box and got squished against one of the fenders - leaving a horrible scratch on the fender too.  Loose objects in boxes are no good and they get wedged in bad places, even end up sticking out the box sometimes. That was very sad to open the box and see.

These are one of the coolest stems around - up there with the putter, the Colson long stem - but in some ways it's even better having those wings - the epitomy of art deco.


----------



## scrubbinrims (Jul 2, 2013)

Imagine a winged stem, but in the speedo integrated style...
Early version, I don't know of any other (at least in looking through the internet).
Chris


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

Sorry to hear about that damaged winged stem babyjesus - this part is so rare - i was very lucky to win one a couple years ago. When i ride my m1 - i hold the bars very lightly not to put stress on the stem. 

What bike of the 1930's has a MORE BEAUTIFUL stem than this one?


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

LONG BEACH SWAP MEET 2013. WHICH BRAND STANDS OUT - PAINT ISN'T EVERYTHING....


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> LONG BEACH SWAP MEET 2013. WHICH BRAND STANDS OUT - PAINT ISN'T EVERYTHING....




SKs are a brand unto themselves - they have a whole look and philosophy that is clearly different, very logical and not mainstream.  These are the greatest qualities in innovation and style - they are art deco but they also have a 'machine age' aura about them - they don't buy into the mainstream 'tank' necessity and above all they are made of a new and different material. They are constructed like no other - they are a little lighter and the flo cycle is certainly flexible and in this case the cushioned ride is constructed in a totally different way to the few other attempts at rear cushioning. They are fantastic bikes. They don't rust for the most part and they are stunning shiny silver from top to bottom.  Some of the first US bikes made of aluminium - these bikes are very attractive and they do stand out when you put them next to a string of mainstream tank bikes.  Don't get me wrong I love tank bikes but Kingsilver is talking about standing out and that they do.  Even when you look at photos of big collections like Nut Hollow - a bright spot is where the silverkings are in amongst them all. They stand out for many reasons.  My first serious collecting began with Silverkings, a flocycle, M1, L1 - another M1 - they are also the most original bikes on the whole - or should I say other bikes often get painted or rusted over and orig paint or restore become serious issues to go after but with these it's a different story. They really look the same way they did and there's can't be too much of a discussion over that. A direct path to history. Love them. Kudos to the designers and builders of these bikes.

By the way I have many patents for these bikes and some for ones that never made it to production - you gotta check this one out in particular:







These guys mean't business and they had ideas of their own and that's cool.  Kingsilver all these shots of your beautiful bikes are making me dizzy 

If anybody wants silverking patents let me know.


----------



## momona (Jul 2, 2013)

*niiiiiiIIIIIIce!*

That rear springer would have been INSANE!!!! this was 100% never fabricated???  

... who cares if it even works... it just looks awesome!


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> sks are a brand unto themselves - they have a whole look and philosophy that is clearly different, very logical and not mainstream.  These are the greatest qualities in innovation and style - they are art deco but they also have a 'machine age' aura about them - they don't buy into the mainstream 'tank' necessity and above all they are made of a new and different material. They are constructed like no other - they are a little lighter and the flo cycle is certainly flexible and in this case the cushioned ride is constructed in a totally different way to the few other attempts at rear cushioning. They are fantastic bikes. They don't rust for the most part and they are stunning shiny silver from top to bottom.  Some of the first us bikes made of aluminium - these bikes are very attractive and they do stand out when you put them next to a string of mainstream tank bikes.  Don't get me wrong i love tank bikes but kingsilver is talking about standing out and that they do.  Even when you look at photos of big collections like nut hollow - a bright spot is where the silverkings are in amongst them all. They stand out for many reasons.  My first serious collecting began with silverkings, a flocycle, m1, l1 - another m1 - they are also the most original bikes on the whole - or should i say other bikes often get painted or rusted over and orig paint or restore become serious issues to go after but with these it's a different story. They really look the same way they did and there's can't be too much of a discussion over that. A direct path to history. Love them. Kudos to the designers and builders of these bikes.
> 
> By the way i have many patents for these bikes and some for ones that never made it to production - you gotta check this one out in particular:
> 
> ...




what a nice paragraph babyjesus - good for you! I agree - "silver king" had their oWn philosophy on bike design much different than OTHER brands - no themed bikes named after motorcycles, birds, dogs, and airplanes. The flo-cycle was DESIGNED from outside the box. To design a bicycle radical in nature compared to the status-quo was remarkable for the decade. It's hard to believe the flo-cycle has 9 casted parts, 5 tubular parts - but when completed - your eyes see one beautiful flowing design. No parts clutter or paint as some of the bikes of the period exhibit. "less is more."


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## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

does any have any documentation/pictures etc. that they can share on how the silver king aluminum bikes were assembled? i know the silver king magazine ads describe "basically" how the bars were pressed-in. are these materials long since destroyed? babyjesus?


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## chitown (Jul 2, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> does any have any documentation/pictures etc. that they can share on how the silver king aluminum bikes were assembled? i know the silver king magazine ads describe "basically" how the bars were pressed-in. are these materials long since destroyed? babyjesus?




Duralium is what they were using and according to the patent it was a heat treated aluminum. Welding would render the alloy useless as it would become brittle after heated to over 500 degrees. That may be why there were no other aluminum bikes for several decades after the SK's.

The patent describes the lugs being 1/100th of an inch smaller than the tubing. Then the Tubes were placed in dry ice while the lugs soaked in a 300 degree oil bath. Then they are "expeditiously" assembled. There are also wedges placed in to help "trumpet" the edges of the tubing out to further resist coming loose.

Many Silver Kings also have additional pins in them. I read somewhere that Monark had an aluminum centrifuge in California to do their castings. They were assembled in Chicago though. I think Rollfast purchased the California plant in the 50's.


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## zephyrblau (Jul 2, 2013)

*from The Monark book*

this grainy low contrast copy of a magazine ad (or sales brochure) is on page 39 of the Monark book. it shows a saddle other than a Troxel Streamline (or toolbox) for 1939. the only difference between this & the photo for 1940 is the change to the more conventional Monark springer fork. there's about 15 pages of coverage on the various aluminum models.


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## kingsilver (Jul 2, 2013)

Thanks chitown. Is there any information out there on how the silver king frames were actually assembled ? We all can probably come up with a logical assembly sequence on the flo-cycle  - but is there any hardcore documentation on this. Any actual ASSEMBLY plant photos?  Was mum the word at the silver king plant ? Would the guys at "harDcore pawn chicago" know?


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## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> Thanks chitown. Is there any information out there on how the silver king frames were actually assembled ? We all can probably come up with a logical assembly sequence on the flo-cycle  - but is there any hardcore documentation on this. Any actual ASSEMBLY plant photos?  Was mum the word at the silver king plant ? Would the guys at "harDcore pawn chicago" know?




Wow Chitown - that's great info, nothing I have ever heard before and cool to know. 

The only thing I can comment on is the 'wedge' which mushrooms the end of the bars inside the lugs - if you have ever taken the badge off your Flocycle you will know there's a huge hole in the front - big enough that you can have a good look inside and see where the tubes end inside the lugs - and in the end of the tubes is are the heads of alan key bolts and the hole in the front is such that you could reach in there and tighten of loosen them - I am assuming these are the wedges, they must be or related directly.  I think there might be some access to these wedges through the bottom bracket too.  I never tightened or loosened any of these alan key bolts but they fit into the 'wedge' explanation.

Assembly plant photos would be great!


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## babyjesus (Jul 2, 2013)

zephyrblau said:


> this grainy low contrast copy of a magazine ad (or sales brochure) is on page 39 of the Monark book. it shows a saddle other than a Troxel Streamline (or toolbox) for 1939. the only difference between this & the photo for 1940 is the change to the more conventional Monark springer fork. there's about 15 pages of coverage on the various aluminum models.




Jerry that really shows that it's a smaller kind of a saddle and to be honest it makes sense.  If you look at the saddle on mine- it has long springs and they are very close to the frame even with the seat at a reasonable ride height.  It doesn't look all that good.  Bikes with double horizontally parallel top tubes like the flo, 26x and the twinbars or Colson Commander tend to look much nicer with a less heavily sprung seat to fit in with the more lightweight look. Just my feeling on the subject.  The Commander typically had a horizontal spring saddle which really works with a more lightweight look. 

Having said that what are you going to do with your non toolbox streamlined saddle - those really are the nicest saddles.  I have one.  There are 2 kinds of toolbox saddle - the soft structured one and the one with the metal structure inside  - I much prefer the soft interior if not the more simple streamlined saddle. 

The weirdest thing - it's early morning here and last night the last thing I did was think about this thread - I swear I had a dream about toolbox saddles and I even woke up actually thinking I had another one, the one that showed up in my dream, and I actually glanced over to my glass cabinet where I have one spare expecting to see a second one


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## kingsilver (Jul 3, 2013)

So i guess  there's no documentation on describing the "assembly" of the  duralium silver king frames ? Maybe that information could have been obtained years back from some of the former monark employees who did the actual assembly of theses special bikes.


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## sam (Jul 3, 2013)

Years ago someone had scans up on the web of the dealer book on silver kings showing the exposed diagram of the frames.Along with a cool story titled Purdiest Bicycle Ever.


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## babyjesus (Jul 3, 2013)

sam said:


> Years ago someone had scans up on the web of the dealer book on silver kings showing the exposed diagram of the frames.Along with a cool story titled Purdiest Bicycle Ever.




That would be Leon Dickson and it's on the NBHAA site.

"Silva Khang"


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## kingsilver (Jul 3, 2013)

SINCE MOST OF THE "SILVER KING" EMPLOYEES WHO ASSEMBLED THESE FRAMES, IN PARTICULAR THE "FLO-CYCLE," HAVE PASSED-AWAY - AND THERE'S  NO DOCUMENTED EVIDENCE FLOATING AROUND ON THE SUBJECT -  I CAME-UP WITH MY OWN VISUAL THOUGHTS ON THE ASSEMBLY PROCESS - THOUGH "VERY RUDIMENTARY." FEEL FREE TO COMMENT ON THE SUBJECT.


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## kingsilver (Jul 3, 2013)

MORE FOTOS


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## Sped Man (Jul 3, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> Just to show you guys what I'm talking about - argh it sux.  So here's my beautiful hextube upside down
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That crack needs to be welded shut. They will probably make the crack bigger and then fill it in. I wouldn't ride it until I found someone to weld it closed. After it is welded it can be polished. A professional welder will make it look like it never happened.


Have you tried?
Rio Welding Ltd.
15 Romina Dr, Concord, Ontario, L4K 4Z9
905-660-7146 	CWB Certified Welding in Toronto and GTA

They make house calls! They do repair work on aluminum. 

Like their website states:
Mobile welding for fast
service at your job site, business
or even your back yard

http://www.riowelding.com/mobile


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## babyjesus (Jul 3, 2013)

Sped Man said:


> That crack needs to be welded shut. They will probably make the crack bigger and then fill it in. I wouldn't ride it until I found someone to weld it closed. After it is welded it can be polished. A professional welder will make it look like it never happened.
> 
> 
> Have you tried?
> ...






Yes I agree - and luckily it's on the bottom so if it wasn't perfect it would be out of sight.

I lived in Toronto for 8 years before moving to Switzerland - which is where I am now   - things are expensive here - plus I have to find them - I don't speak German either - but I will get it sorted one way or another.  Welding is probably ideal - better maybe than epoxy/glue - but the glue I could do myself.  I need to get my bearings here and work out where to get things like this done in my neighborhood.  That contact you gave looks perfect, I wonder if there is one here like that where they would come over and do it.  My apartment is a total mess, completely cluttered in every room with bikes and parts, including my bedroom and garage - I'd have to have it done in the shared garden area lol


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## babyjesus (Jul 3, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> MORE FOTOS




Thisw has to be one of the nicest M1 SKs I have ever seen.  Mine doesn't come close to it, but I'm aiming to end up with a deluxe bike like yours - I even have a tank for it but it is not in great shape and might not work if I polish the M1 - but I haven't properly polished any of mine yet.  Partly lazy and partly unsure because it apparently takes about 10 years to get the patina back. It's a bit of a one way ticket.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jul 3, 2013)

I would solder it. Epoxy is too weak.

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/-r-hDls5yJI


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## babyjesus (Jul 4, 2013)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> I would solder it. Epoxy is too weak.
> 
> Check out this video on YouTube:
> 
> http://youtu.be/-r-hDls5yJI




Cool - he made it look pretty easy.  No huge equipment or anything either.


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## kingsilver (Jul 4, 2013)

The solder video is interesting - but would that work on a 64 year old aluminum crack on babyjesus's  hexbar bottom bracket? According to some people - aluminum becomes brittle as it ages. Would that mean the elements in the aluminum have changed ? Maybe the aluminum on the bike has to be tested somehow before it can be soldered or welded to ensure that the bond is permanent? Just a thought.


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## kingsilver (Jul 4, 2013)




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## babyjesus (Jul 4, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> The solder video is interesting - but would that work on a 64 year old aluminum crack on babyjesus's  hexbar bottom bracket? According to some people - aluminum becomes brittle as it ages. Would that mean the elements in the aluminum have changed ? Maybe the aluminum on the bike has to be tested somehow before it can be soldered or welded to ensure that the bond is permanent? Just a thought.




Having seen it crack in person and heard stories of Wingbars cracking after a gentle accidental hit - I'm inclined to agree that it's extremely brittle. It is also very rough and full of holes on the inside.  It's horrible metal to be perfectly honest - 70 years later.  I know of a wingbar that was cracked and reglued and ridden without a problem. The glue worked very well. It was cracked literally in half behind the seat on the downtube to the rear whilst trying to knock the screw out which bolts through joining two parts of the frame. It literally smashed in half, and inmportant part of the bike structurally without a doubt. But reglued it is unnoticeable and stronger than it was before. Don't anybody even gently bang a screw out of an SK frame on the forged parts because they are so brittle it's shocking. Don't bend them too much either. The break on my bike was on a tube, not a forged part and that was very clear evidence of brittleness.  

Good point about maybe testing the metal before welding.

I collect alot of bikes, not just SKs so I only ride the SKs on short 'soft' flat road journeys and I'm super careful. I won't ride the 26x at all and possibly not the Flocycle either. They are just too weak in their construction and they are designed to flex - something great when the metal was young but not when it's old. As I am sure you all know aluminium has a memory for stretching. Once bent so far, it will bend back twice as easily, ultimately getting weaker and weaker. This added to brittleness is a terrible mixture. Probably the best bikes to ride when new and the most risky to ride now sadly.  Snapping my Flocycle top tube clean apart was one of the worst feelings I ever had. From that experience alone I have become terribly scared of riding these bikes. My advice is NEVER stand on the pedals or go uphill if you don't want to risk it.


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## babyjesus (Jul 4, 2013)

kingsilver said:


>




Same Flo with regular handlebars but hex speedostem?  Great photos.  I like your drawing - just I'd add the screws in 'exploded diagram' with dotted lines showing where they go - especially the ones inside the headtube.  You have 2 small holes in your head tubes? Mine has 2 for the badge and one huge one to access the allen head screws on the inside. You can litterally stick and allen key inside the headtube and unscrew the wedges that screw in the ends of the tubes adjoined to the cast headpiece.  Argh - it's hard to describe!


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## kingsilver (Jul 4, 2013)

I thought i noticed 2 holes on the head tube last time i took the forks off while transporting the bike inside my car on the last cyclone coaster swap meet. You're right, there's probably only one large hole. Babyjesus - i believe i've seen your bike collection on one of your post awhile back - extraordinary to say the least - love to own that fantastic "26-x" - i'd be ridding the baby every chance i'd get - if that's not one of the most impressive bicycles of the 1930's - i don't know what is.


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## babyjesus (Jul 4, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> I thought i noticed 2 holes on the head tube last time i took the forks off while transporting the bike inside my car on the last cyclone coaster swap meet. You're right, there's probably only one large hole. Babyjesus - i believe i've seen your bike collection on one of your post awhile back - extraordinary to say the least - love to own that fantastic "26-x" - i'd be ridding the baby every chance i'd get - if that's not one of the most impressive bicycles of the 1930's - i don't know what is.




It certainly is one of the most beautiful bikes out there, I agree.  I think they could have kept the 'wing' headtube casting for the Flocycles too maybe.

I don't think I've ever posted a pic of my collection actually, perhaps one or two in the background sort of thing 

It was a long time ago when I cracked the Flo and tried to find a way of removing the cracked bar - but I seem to vaguely remember feeling the same 'wedge' allen head bolts inside the bottom bracket - pointing into their respective downtube and seat tube.  The confusing thing about that was the lack of direct access - you could get an allen key in and around the corner but to turn it is another thing.  I really was searching to take the whole frame apart but no cigar.  Following the same principle of the headtube access hole you might expect something similar in the BB.  Maybe one was easily accessed before the other tube was attached and the the second was doable using some kind of tool that you can twist around corners - they exist.  Regardless of the allem bolts in the tube ends inside the lugs the tubes are anyway glued or something. It would be fun if you really could dismantle them entirely. 

I think Spedman's bit of info about the heating and freezing process is as near to the build process as I ever understood - a great bit of info and I'm already having trouble finding it even though it's in this thread lol. Musta gone back too many pages. I'll be dreaming about frozen mushroom bar ends with wedges in them tonight no doubt


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## zephyrblau (Jul 4, 2013)

head tube area of a wingbar. the hole lines up w/ the down tube.


----------



## prewarbikes4sale (Jul 4, 2013)

*Wingbar*

Wow alot of very nice bikes! I just got this one it is NOS! Mike


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## kingsilver (Jul 4, 2013)

prewarbikes4sale said:


> Wow alot of very nice bikes! I just got this one it is NOS! Mike




now you're talking !!! that's beautiful - keep them coming !!!


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## Sped Man (Jul 4, 2013)

I thought you lived in Switzerland Toronto Canada. For Switzerland try:
Vinzenz Zgraggen Sägerei: Machine Shop and Welding.
Bei Der Kirche, 6482 Gurtnellen
Country: Switzerland 	Phone: 041 885 11 26

or 

Herbst Jörg-Uwe: Machine Shop and Welding.
Ch. De Riettaz 4
Postal: 1030
City: Lausanne
Administrative region: Vaud
Country: Switzerland 	Phone: 21-7010948
Fax: 21-7014337

I almost forgot this guy:

Mabal GmbH
 Welder Aluminum

Aluminium Schweisserei
Nordstrasse 19
4542 Luterbach
Phone: 	*032 682 27 04 

I don't know which is closest to you. Hope this helps. You could also try a auto repair shop.


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## prewarbikes4sale (Jul 4, 2013)

*Flocycle*

Thanks Flocycle


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## kingsilver (Jul 4, 2013)

Nice flo-cycle  - what's next - a 26x - i hope.....


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## kingsilver (Jul 4, 2013)

DOES ANYONE KNOW THE TRUTH? WAS THE HAWTHORNE BADGED FLO-CYCLE ACTUALLY NAMED THAT?  OR WAS IT NAMED "AIR-FLOW?" THE OLD BICYCLE BLUE BOOK HAS IT AS "AIR-FLOW?"


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## kingsilver (Jul 5, 2013)

DOES THIS MARK UNDER THE BOTTOM BRACKET OF A SILVER KING HAVE ANY MEANING OR IS IT A STAMPING MISTAKE ?


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## babyjesus (Jul 5, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> DOES THIS MARK UNDER THE BOTTOM BRACKET OF A SILVER KING HAVE ANY MEANING OR IS IT A STAMPING MISTAKE ?




My flocycles are Hawthorne badged and don't have flo or air written on them anywhere. I notice in your blue ad that the headlight doesnt have jewels on it. I haven't seen this ad before either.

As for the mark under the bottom bracket - I have never seen anything like it.  Is that on your M1? Very interesting - clearly not a mistake - I mean how could it be a mistake?  It seems like a perfect closed shape of some kind -but it is pretty strange 

....unless it's two diff stamps one ontop of the other - kind of looks like there's an overlap actually.


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## bike (Jul 5, 2013)

*Ya just had to kill me...*



prewarbikes4sale said:


> Wow alot of very nice bikes! I just got this one it is NOS! Mike




needs to be in my living room

some kings and other once I had- scroll down:
http://antiquebikeparts.com/cabe/shop1999/index.htm


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## babyjesus (Jul 5, 2013)

bike said:


> needs to be in my living room
> 
> some kings and other once I had- scroll down:
> http://antiquebikeparts.com/cabe/shop1999/index.htm




Damn Bike - that's one crazy space full of amazing stuff you got there. A 26x with a speedo gooseneck - wow - looks really nice!

I like the cabinets full of insane parts.  Wooden drop bars? Holy moly - this thread goes from strangth to strength


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## kingsilver (Jul 5, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> My flocycles are Hawthorne badged and don't have flo or air written on them anywhere. I notice in your blue ad that the headlight doesnt have jewels on it. I haven't seen this ad before either.
> 
> As for the mark under the bottom bracket - I have never seen anything like it.  Is that on your M1? Very interesting - clearly not a mistake - I mean how could it be a mistake?  It seems like a perfect closed shape of some kind -but it is pretty strange
> 
> ....unless it's two diff stamps one ontop of the other - kind of looks like there's an overlap actually.



i believe it was called hawthorne "air-flow." until someone chimes in with solid evidence stating otherwise, i'll stick with "air-flow."
i always thought the special delta large cone jewel light was just made for the "silver kings," not the hawthorne badged "air-flow." 
the mark is on my flo-cycle bottom bracket.


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## kingsilver (Jul 8, 2013)

HERE'S A COUPLE ABSTRACT FLO-CYCLE RINGS I'VE DESIGNED. I'LL MAKE LOST WAX MODELS AND CAST THEM IN STERLING SILVER. I WILL FIND THE BLUE AND RED STONES AND THEN MAKE THE RINGS. WILL BE MAKING AN ABSTRACT PENDANT DESIGN ALSO. THE SPEEDO HOUSING AND REFLECTOR HOUSING WILL BE CAST SEPERATLEY.


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## babyjesus (Jul 9, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> HERE'S A COUPLE ABSTRACT FLO-CYCLE RINGS I'VE DESIGNED. I'LL MAKE LOST WAX MODELS AND CAST THEM IN STERLING SILVER. I WILL FIND THE BLUE AND RED STONES AND THEN MAKE THE RINGS. WILL BE MAKING AN ABSTRACT PENDANT DESIGN ALSO. THE SPEEDO HOUSING AND REFLECTOR HOUSING WILL BE CAST SEPERATLEY.




Cool - nice idea - no writing?  You could take something from one of the relative badges or company logos - it would make it a little less abstract but that might not be a bad thing. Also the writing could be under - or even on the inside.


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## kingsilver (Jul 9, 2013)

No writing. Just my initials on the inside.


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## zephyrblau (Jul 18, 2013)

*just saw this...*

nearly broke my heart


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 18, 2013)

zephyrblau said:


> nearly broke my heart




Aw damn Jerry that sucks - did you know it was like that or is it shipping damage or..?

This metal is terrible - it cracks and splits and is porous on the inside.

To be honest if you were going to ride it it might have been dangerous and the fact is that once repaired you wont notice it and furthermore it will be much stronger than it was originally.

That doesn't make it any better now - I'd be heartbroken too and it's a serious job to repair but not impossible at least.

How did it happen?

I'm sorry for you man, really I am and I know just how that feels because it's happened to me.


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## zephyrblau (Jul 18, 2013)

hi Marc; 
sorry... I should have been more clear. the good news is that it's not my bike. it's a frame for sale on ebay. mine is close to being ready for the first ride. I'll post some pix @ that time. 
cheers 
jerry


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## babyjesus (Jul 18, 2013)

zephyrblau said:


> hi Marc;
> sorry... I should have been more clear. the good news is that it's not my bike. it's a frame for sale on ebay. mine is close to being ready for the first ride. I'll post some pix @ that time.
> cheers
> jerry




Oh thank god - yes I just saw it on ebay.  It looks like somebody removed the badge and whacked it with a hammer.  I wonder how exactly that damage occurred.


----------



## bike (Jul 19, 2013)

*I have seen 3*

now 4
26 x with the heatube blown out- looks like a shotgun shell went off inside- must be a stress issue in the design


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## scrubbinrims (Jul 19, 2013)

There are a couple of circular holes (different size diameters) behind the badge, from the casting I assume, so that pic looks worse than it is....but they did make the frame more susceptible as the cracks originate from these factory holes.
My 26x had a similar problem to a lesser degree caused by the worst springer fork ever designed, the '39 pencil springer from impact(s).
After removing the badge and righting with a rubber mallet, my welder fixed it up nicely...yes there are some small air pockets remaining, but you have to be up close to notice them and I have never seen a SK without scars anyway.
Chris


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## Wing Your Heel (Jul 30, 2013)

*Flo out, 26X in*

Sold the Flocycle - being repatriated to Venice Beach.

So bought this as compensation...





...first stop when it arrives - my friend's aluminium welder. 

I took the flocycle stem in there before packing it and he welded it on the spot. 

He's just bought a new aluminium rolling machine and made all the bodywork on the car below





Will update pics when welded


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## kingsilver (Jul 30, 2013)

Maybe there's a way of strengthening the inner head casting wall...depending on how much space there is around the fork tube on a 26x? It would be interesting to find out if silver king tested these stress points before the final production castings. perhaps if the head tube casting on the 26x was 1/16" thicker - it wouldn't have this problem. also, it was a good idea to put a spring front end to absorb road shock - but the weight of the springer puts more stress on the thin wall aluminum head casting.


----------



## kingsilver (Jul 31, 2013)




----------



## babyjesus (Jul 31, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> Maybe there's a way of strengthening the inner head casting wall...depending on how much space there is around the fork tube on a 26x? It would be interesting to find out if silver king tested these stress points before the final production castings. perhaps if the head tube casting on the 26x was 1/16" thicker - it wouldn't have this problem. also, it was a good idea to put a spring front end to absorb road shock - but the weight of the springer puts more stress on the thin wall aluminum head casting.




.....argh more killer photos 

I think that just making the repair - rewelding - will be so much stronger that it will do the trick. You could bore out the top or bottom of the head tube and fit a steel tube inside I suppose but I think if going at it with a welder anyway then just lay it on thick and on the inside if possible and sand it back to shape and it will be strong again. I have a feeling they were strong enough when made but it's just a long term failure of the metal composition that's caused this weakness.


----------



## Wing Your Heel (Aug 1, 2013)

*From Copake*

These are my friend's Silver Kings; he bought them at Copake


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## babyjesus (Aug 1, 2013)

Wing Your Heel said:


> These are my friend's Silver Kings; he bought them at Copake




Boys M1s don't get much better than that!  - nice Flocycle too    If he polishes them it will take a good ten years to get the patina back so it's worth a though before just launching into it if you 'eat patina for breakfast' - as some people do 

Your friend did well


----------



## kingsilver (Aug 2, 2013)

Nice flo and m1 !!!   For me - "lite hand polishing" is fine - don't use a buffer - i would leave the deep scratches and metal stains as is.


----------



## babyjesus (Aug 2, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> Nice flo and m1 !!!   For me - "lite hand polishing" is fine - don't use a buffer - i would leave the deep scratches and metal stains as is.




Very good idea - shine out the highlights so to speak and keep some of the patina - it gives it an authentic old but well looked after look - and avoids making it look like a brand new bike.  I think you have just given me the answer I have been holding out for with regard to my silverkings - I've been on the fence about polishing for ages now but your solution is perfect - a very organic answer in my opinion - it follows naturally to want to hand polish ones bike but that is a simple task compared to breaking the whole bike down and going at each piece in infinite detail.  Thanks!


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## kingsilver (Aug 2, 2013)

I guess the process would be similar to guys who have painted bikes when they take-off that heavy layer of oxidation/crud to reveal the original colour underneath.


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## kingsilver (Aug 2, 2013)

flo-cycle owners - can you tell me what's unusual with the bottom bracket and the bottom stay?


----------



## kingsilver (Aug 3, 2013)

THE LEAF SPRING AND THE BOTTOM STAY ARE OFF-CENTER FROM THE SEAT MAST TUBE.


----------



## babyjesus (Aug 4, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> THE LEAF SPRING AND THE BOTTOM STAY ARE OFF-CENTER FROM THE SEAT MAST TUBE.




I'm sorry I don't have a close up of the other one and this is my first flocycle - the photo is not from the right angle but it does look a little more centered than yours maybe but I can't fully tell.













Sorry these are the only pics I have.  I can't really tell to be honest.

It makes sense the bottom bracket is right side heavy because the rear of the bike is wider than a normal bike and needs extra clearance for the drive train/chainwheel.

But what is odd is the seat post being off center with regard to the leaf spring bolts - you would expect a more centralized setup to take the weight and pressure better.

This old Flo of mine is the older style without the bulbous headtube - so perhaps they changed a few things in the next design.  Mine does look more central in these remote photos if I had to guess.

BTW in the pic taken from the front you can see it has no badge and the badge holes are actually on the sides of the would be badge - you can also only just see the edge of one of those big holes I was talking about through which you can see the alan/hex bolts which screw straight into the tubes adjoining the headtube casting.


----------



## kingsilver (Aug 6, 2013)

M1


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 6, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> This old Flo of mine is the older style without the bulbous headtube - so perhaps they changed a few things in the next design.



Marc,
It is my understanding the bulbous head tube is not significant of an earlier vs. later style, but SK vs. Hawthorne branding.
Chris


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## kingsilver (Aug 15, 2013)

SOME FLOCYCLE DETAILS


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 15, 2013)

Dude, I know you worship at the flocycle alter, but this bicycle has to be the most overexposed bicycle on the CABE...I know yours better than I know mine.
Chris


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## kingsilver (Aug 15, 2013)

MORE FLOCYCLE DETAILS


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## babyjesus (Aug 15, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> Marc,
> It is my understanding the bulbous head tube is not significant of an earlier vs. later style, but SK vs. Hawthorne branding.
> Chris




Ah - interesting, thanks for that. I had no idea.  I don't know why - it's less stylish but I just prefer the non bulbous head tube. Just a personal thing I guess.


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 15, 2013)

I also prefer the bulbous head and any balloon tire bicycle that can be described as bulbous.
Might have something to do with the straight truss rods of hawthornes and not working with such headtube mass (requiring the arcing wrap-around style).
Chris


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## bike (Aug 15, 2013)

*Can anyone provide pix of the two together? Never*



scrubbinrims said:


> Marc,
> It is my understanding the bulbous head tube is not significant of an earlier vs. later style, but SK vs. Hawthorne branding.
> Chris




noticed the differen in head


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## kingsilver (Aug 15, 2013)

The "silver king" head tube compliments the rest of the design of the bike. The hawthorne to me is ordinary - like most of the bikes of the period. My opinion.


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## babyjesus (Aug 15, 2013)

bike said:


> noticed the differen in head




If you go back one page you will see mine with a regular headtube mid way and near the bottom you will see Kingsilver's with bulbous headtube.

Regular M1s have the same two different styles as well.

I prefer the regular style - I just find the bulbous head tube 'heavy' looking and opposing to streamline style although it is wonderfully excessive and unique in it's own way. I like them both.


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## babyjesus (Aug 15, 2013)

bike said:


> noticed the differen in head




sorry I just realized you dont see the bulbous one very well from the front. Its a little bottom heavy.


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 15, 2013)

bike said:


> noticed the differen in head




This will have to do for now, until I get up in the attic.
Chris


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## babyjesus (Aug 15, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> This will have to do for now, until I get up in the attic.
> Chris
> View attachment 109074




Aw damn - nice attic!

You need to clear it out. I can help you with that!


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## kingsilver (Aug 15, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> Dude, I know you worship at the flocycle alter, but this bicycle has to be the most overexposed bicycle on the CABE...I know yours better than I know mine.
> Chris




dude, i don't think my bike is "overexposed" as much as the huffmans and shelbys.... maybe some people who don't know the flo-cycle are interested in the details of the bike - that's why i post the fotos - and you don't know me - so please don't assume anything.


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## decotriumph (Aug 15, 2013)

Here are a couple shots of my '36 Silver King. It is incomplete and has a little damage to the second horizontal frame tube (you can probably make it out in the picture). Can one of you tell me if the '36 should have painted or polished fenders?

I have a "wanted to buy" ad in the local Craigslist and I got an e-mail yesterday from a gent who has a a '48 Hex Tube SK that he got new. He wasn't looking to sell. He's passing it to his grown son. But I thought it was cool that he's owned it for 65 years.


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## kingsilver (Aug 15, 2013)

decotriumph said:


> here are a couple shots of my '36 silver king. It is incomplete and has a little damage to the second horizontal frame tube (you can probably make it out in the picture). Can one of you tell me if the '36 should have painted or polished fenders?
> 
> I have a "wanted to buy" ad in the local craigslist and i got an e-mail yesterday from a gent who has a a '48 hex tube sk that he got new. He wasn't looking to sell. He's passing it to his grown son. But i thought it was cool that he's owned it for 65 years.



your 1936 silver king m1 should have the stainless steel (polished) fenders.


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## decotriumph (Aug 15, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> your 1936 silver king m1 should have the stainless steel (polished) fenders.




Thanks, kingsilver.


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## kingsilver (Aug 15, 2013)

your are welcome!


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## momona (Aug 20, 2013)

*Pics*

... Hoping someone can post a pic of a real deal hex tube seat.

Thanks, I think I just got one, but, not 100% sure... i will post pics in the am.


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## babyjesus (Aug 20, 2013)

momona said:


> ... Hoping someone can post a pic of a real deal hex tube seat.
> 
> Thanks, I think I just got one, but, not 100% sure... i will post pics in the am.




Hex tube seat


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## momona (Aug 21, 2013)

*yikes!!!*

...so what did i end up buying if this is not correct?

...as i was holding it, i thought it should have been more red, but i couldnt resist.


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## chitown (Aug 21, 2013)

Looks right except for the color? That would be easy to paint/dye if you wanted but I think it looks good with the lighter brown too. Can't tell if the springs are the same though.


http://www.nbhaa.com/index8.html


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## kingsilver (Aug 21, 2013)

momona said:


> ...so what did i end up buying if this is not correct?
> 
> ...as i was holding it, i thought it should have been more red, but i couldnt resist.




is that the original color or was it once red and faded from the sun?


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## momona (Aug 21, 2013)

*hmmm...*

I guess it could have faded over time.  But the condition is so good, it makes me think otherwise.


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 21, 2013)

momona said:


> ...so what did i end up buying if this is not correct?
> 
> ...as i was holding it, i thought it should have been more red, but i couldnt resist.




It's a cool saddle but was on option on Monark super deluxes and never on a hex tube.
Certainly a nice placeholder though and not too far off.
Chris


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## momona (Aug 21, 2013)

*OOOOoooooooohhhhh.....*

...the truth hurts


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## momona (Aug 22, 2013)

*advice....*

Transfering soon.... these are the three bikes that i am worried about getting damaged in the move.  I am in the navy-- so everything is taken care of, wrapped, and boxed by the movers. I will be transfering to san diAgO.

Question is, what is the best way to do this? Take every bolt out, and box up all the parts myself? Or leave the bikes fully assembled--and just wrap them, or let the movers do their thing (and i am just being a nancy)?

I got these bikes at this duty station, so i have no experience with how this could end up.  Not worried about my other bikes.... just the silver kings.

Chicago to san diego.... how would you do this?  Hope to get some good ideas from you guys, thanks.


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## momona (Aug 22, 2013)

Oops forgot the pic....


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Aug 22, 2013)

Cute kid, future bicycle fanatic. I know about cute kids being raised around bicycles. I raised a bicycle fanatic. They never become drug Zombies that way.
I take the fork and front wheel off and leave the rear wheel on the frame.
I then wrap 2" foam pipe insulation on the wheels around the tires and rims and also use 3/4" pipe insulation on the frame tubes. 1/2" pipe insulation on the seat and chain stays. Use 3/4" pipe insulation on the fork tubes. Use plastic zip-ties or packing tape for fastening pipe insulation. Use bolt, washers and nut to reinforce the fork at the hub axle dropouts.
Then bubble wrap every thing. Dont use more than one layer. Pack the seat in bubble wrap separately. Take the pedals off.
Remove the handle bars from the gooseneck and cover the bars with 3/4" pipe insulation.
Use a standard Specialized bicycle carton for the frame with rear wheel and a Specialized bicycle wheel carton for the front wheel and misc. Specialized bicycle cartons are the strongest.
Wrap all parts with large heavy duty trash bags and tape openings. Then have handy 8 cans of expanding foam purchased from Home Depot. Lay a bed of foam on the inside bottom of carton where the upside down frame will be positioned. Don't go crazy with the foam placement. Remember it expands. Position the upside down frame in the bed of fresh foam then continue to add foam to the spaces between the carton and the frame. Use long disposable gloves. Foam has to wear off your skin or use nasty acetone to remove. You can spritz water on the foam to accelerate the curing. Now add foam popcorn to the spaces and add any small parts. Copy this procedure to the front wheel and fork carton (smaller wheel carton). The expanding foam fill will guarantee that the bicycle and parts do not become piercing projectiles that would rupture the cartons and cause catastrophic damage to the bicycle itself and also create a pathway for losing parts.
Buy a jumbo Sharpie marker and right fragile, keep upright and do not stack on top of box.
This works every time for me. I learned this lesson the hard way. 99% of all damage of contents are from not securing the contents from moving inside the carton.


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## momona (Aug 22, 2013)

*Holy Crap!!!*



GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> Cute kid, future bicycle fanatic. I know about cute kids being raised around bicycles. I raised a bicycle fanatic. They never become drug Zombies that way.
> I take the fork and front wheel off and leave the rear wheel on the frame.
> I then wrap 2" foam pipe insulation on the wheels around the tires and rims and also use 3/4" pipe insulation on the frame tubes. 1/2" pipe insulation on the seat and chain stays. Use 3/4" pipe insulation on the fork tubes. Use plastic zip-ties or packing tape for fastening pipe insulation. Use bolt, washers and nut to reinforce the fork at the hub axle dropouts.
> Then bubble wrap every thing. Dont use more than one layer. Pack the seat in bubble wrap separately. Take the pedals off.
> ...




well that answers all my questions!  Thanks!!! ... and the expanding foam is genius!!! i'm doing exactly this!!! thank you!!!


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Aug 22, 2013)

You're welcome.
This method was recommended by a member of The Wheelman forum who has shipped hundreds of bicycles.


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## momona (Aug 22, 2013)

you had me scratching my head at the trash bag part.... but it came together in the end!


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Aug 22, 2013)

The trash-bag keeps the expanded foam off of the bubble wrap to make it easier to unpack and also repurpose the bubble wrap.


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## Talewinds (Aug 22, 2013)

This is not intended to scare you, just want you to be really diligent in your efforts. I work at a bike shop that's minutes from a large Air Force base. We get bikes in all the time that have endured the military move. Typically, the results are destructive. A modern bike is, of course, easy to source replacement parts for, but those??? 
Just pack them carefully.


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## kingsilver (Aug 22, 2013)

momona said:


> Transfering soon.... these are the three bikes that i am worried about getting damaged in the move.  I am in the navy-- so everything is taken care of, wrapped, and boxed by the movers. I will be transfering to san diAgO.
> 
> Question is, what is the best way to do this? Take every bolt out, and box up all the parts myself? Or leave the bikes fully assembled--and just wrap them, or let the movers do their thing (and i am just being a nancy)?
> 
> ...




have a good time in san diego - i was stationed there from 1971-1974 on the uss blue ridge lcc-19.


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## momona (Aug 22, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> have a good time in san diego - i was stationed there from 1971-1974 on the uss blue ridge lcc-19.




had a chance to take orders to the blue ridge (yokosuka), but ended up with orders to hawaii.  now i'm off to ACU-5... should be fun.  ---if i have some bikes to ride once i get there!! 

sorry guys... i'll try to keep this on topic... 

HAS ANYONE MADE THEIR OWN ALUMINUM TRUSS RODS??? OR SUBSTITUTIONS for truss rods?? I'D LIKE TO GET SOMETHING GOING FOR MY WINGBAR.


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## kingsilver (Aug 22, 2013)

Have you tried "chestnut hallow" jerry peters? He might have what you're looking for - but prepare to pay a lot.


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## kingsilver (Aug 23, 2013)

Was on the zaz databaz's photos which had the 30's hawthorne duralium bicycle ad. "air-flow" is the name of the bike not "flo-cycle."  cost $44.95.  Flo-cycle ad from the "wright & wilhelmy company, omaha" cost was $53.20. Ea. .


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## kingsilver (Aug 24, 2013)




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## kingsilver (Aug 24, 2013)

1930'S SILVER KING M1 AD


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## babyjesus (Aug 24, 2013)

kingsilver said:


>




The regular M1 on the left doesn't have a battery tube - it looks like it has a regular battery loaded torpedo light on it.


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## kingsilver (Aug 29, 2013)




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## chitown (Aug 30, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> The regular M1 on the left doesn't have a battery tube - it looks like it has a regular battery loaded torpedo light on it.




The M1 was Silver King only, not Wards. In '37 the Wards Duralium had the Delta Zep light as the option with the batteries in the light.

Similar to the M237 badged Silver King ('37 also) which offered the zep light option too.


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## babyjesus (Aug 30, 2013)

chitown said:


> The M1 was Silver King only, not Wards. In '37 the Wards Duralium had the Delta Zep light as the option with the batteries in the light.
> 
> Similar to the M237 badged Silver King ('37 also) which offered the zep light option too.




Hey Chitown thx for that info - I think I know which you mean by the zep light but I'm not 100% sure - does anybody have a pic/link?

It's just I can't really tell from the pic in the ad above.

Great pics btw Kingsilver


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## chitown (Aug 30, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> I think I know which you mean by the zep light but I'm not 100% sure - does anybody have a pic/link




Here is a Zep light:


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 30, 2013)

The light chitown posted is aka the "fat torpedo" is associated with HP Snyder built models...but it is there in print from the MW catalogue.
I have never actually seen it on a duralium real world example...doesn't mean it doesn't exist, but I would like to see it.
There is another zep light that has 6 sides that I wonder if it was used, being available at the time and the MW catalogue pic an artist's rendering.
Will try and post a pic of this later.
Chris


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## babyjesus (Aug 30, 2013)

chitown said:


> Here is a Zep light:




Ah - not the one I was thinking then.  Thx.  I never knew any of this about Hawthorne Silverkings.

I know that bike.  Stunning bike!


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## babyjesus (Aug 30, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> The light chitown posted is aka the "fat torpedo" is associated with HP Snyder built models...but it is there in print from the MW catalogue.
> I have never actually seen it on a duralium real world example...doesn't mean it doesn't exist, but I would like to see it.
> There is another zep light that has 6 sides that I wonder if it was used, being available at the time and the MW catalogue pic an artist's rendering.
> Will try and post a pic of this later.
> Chris




I know the light you mean I think with 6 sides.  And there's another zeppelin looking light with many ridges along it and a glass lense with little balls of glass around the outside.  In the ad it looks more simple though - Chitown's light makes sense according to the ad picture to some extent.  I can imagine if the light had an unusual form the ad artist would make sure to try and show that specifically.


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## kingsilver (Aug 30, 2013)

DOES ANYONE HAVE PHOTOS OF THE INTERNAL PARTS OF THE FLO-CYCLE TAIL LITE ?


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## chitown (Aug 31, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> There is another zep light that has 6 sides that I wonder if it was used,




I think the 6 sided one shows up on the Silver King model M237. The frame has the bulbous headtube but no fork lock. Not many of those frames are around. They pop up now and then but usually just a frame and fork. Other cool features of the M237 is the blue fenders like the wingbar. I wish I knew who scored that 1937 Silver King catalog at Copake last year.

Anybody have a good copy of a 1937 model M237???


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 31, 2013)

chitown said:


> I think the 6 sided one shows up on the Silver King model M237. The frame has the bulbous headtube but no fork lock. Not many of those frames are around. They pop up now and then but usually just a frame and fork. Other cool features of the M237 is the blue fenders like the wingbar. I wish I knew who scored that 1937 Silver King catalog at Copake last year.
> 
> Anybody have a good copy of a 1937 model M237???




I had plans of bidding on that 37 sk catalogue, but stepped out for fresh air or to grab a bite and missed that item as an unintentional result.
Larkin Little bought it and I thumbed through it since, but I haven't asked for a color photocopy yet.  
Chris


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## babyjesus (Aug 31, 2013)

*also*

Since we are on subtle variations between models this should be added to the mix - bulbous head no lock and the rear is wingbar.





gothic alu fenders


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## chitown (Sep 1, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> I had plans of bidding on that 37 sk catalogue, but stepped out for fresh air or to grab a bite and missed that item as an unintentional result.
> Larkin Little bought it and I thumbed through it since, but I haven't asked for a color photocopy yet.
> Chris





So much for the benefits of fresh air.

I would suggest  having it professionally scanned. Better yet, have your local university scan it and upload it to the HathiTrust Digital Library. HathiTrust is a partnership of academic & research institutions, offering a collection of millions of titles digitized from libraries around the world.

http://www.hathitrust.org/community 

When catalogs are so rare, I think it is important to scan these for reference at least. The originals will still hold value and may in fact increase with more exposure to the market of the scanned files. 

Or scan and upload to theCABE


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## fordsnake (Sep 1, 2013)

scrubbinrims said:


> The light chitown posted is aka the "fat torpedo" is associated with HP Snyder built models...but it is there in print from the MW catalogue.
> I have never actually seen it on a duralium real world example...doesn't mean it doesn't exist, but I would like to see it.
> There is another zep light that has 6 sides that I wonder if it was used, being available at the time and the MW catalogue pic an artist's rendering.
> Will try and post a pic of this later.
> Chris




Chris, I had in my possession at one time (before parting it out), an original, unmolested deluxe Hawthorne Duralium with an Aluminum Fat Torpedo fender light mounted on the blue "ducktail" Wingbar fenders. It also had the piecrust chainring and the double mounted handlebars and stem which I kept for my 5-Bar.


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## babyjesus (Sep 3, 2013)

*My New M1*

It has the stem with wings on it - as you can see in the 2 attached pics of it in/by the wooden crate (not the embedded pic)


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## momona (Sep 3, 2013)

I want that tank! Hand it over...


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## bike (Sep 3, 2013)

*my tank like that*



momona said:


> I want that tank! Hand it over...




has a battery tray in it so I am not running the tube- awesome bike!


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## babyjesus (Sep 4, 2013)

bike said:


> has a battery tray in it so I am not running the tube- awesome bike!




absolutely true.  The tank has a battery holder in it.  

It's nice to have both.

Might need to add some more electrical stuff so there's an excuse for both


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## babyjesus (Sep 4, 2013)

bike said:


> has a battery tray in it so I am not running the tube- awesome bike!




I posted this pic earlier in the thread, Bike is right - shows the inside of a tank with battery holder.  It's not the same tank.  I might be selling it since I got this new one on the M1.  (pic also shows the super rare and early/first rack that's shorter and wider).


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## momona (Sep 4, 2013)

I'd be interested in the tank if you decided to sell?


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## babyjesus (Sep 4, 2013)

momona said:


> I'd be interested in the tank if you decided to sell?




Sure thing - if I sell I'll let you know if I sell.

It's got a different design on the side and sadly it's mostly come off.  Actually I'd love to know what it is supposed to look like.


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## kingsilver (Sep 4, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> it has the stem with wings on it - as you can see in the 2 attached pics of it in/by the wooden crate (not the embedded pic)
> 
> View attachment 112011View attachment 112012




sweet looking bikes babyjesus - only thing missing on the m1 is a motor !!!


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Sep 4, 2013)

This beautiful sculpture is spoiled by the crude battery tube.
I know this must sound sacraligious, but what if someone deleted the battery tube and cable then used a lithium battery in the light housing with a magnetic on/off switch, hidden under the aluminum skin of the lamp housing?


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## babyjesus (Sep 5, 2013)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> This beautiful sculpture is spoiled by the crude battery tube.
> I know this must sound sacraligious, but what if someone deleted the battery tube and cable then used a lithium battery in the light housing with a magnetic on/off switch, hidden under the aluminum skin of the lamp housing?




Great idea - you would just need one of those fat electric hubs on the front or rear and you'd be moving!  Any tank bike.  I've had that exact thought myself.

The battery tube is actually redundant because the tank holds batteries anyway.


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## babyjesus (Sep 5, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> sweet looking bikes babyjesus - only thing missing on the m1 is a motor !!!




I think putting a motor on a silverking would rip it apart.  Those duralium frames wouldn't hold up to the torque of an engine - I'd bet on it.  I could see the whole frame literally getting torn on the rear - and thats only if it didn't collapse with the weight of an engine and a person on it before even turning the engine on.

I know I am harsh about this kind of metal but I have seen plenty of horrible things other than the cracking top tube of my flocycle. They are not only weakened by virtue of years of pressure 'memory' but the cast parts are incredibly brittle.  I heard about somebody trying to knock the screw out of the frame just behind the seat and missing the screw with a light tap - and the whole thing cracking in half.  He glued it back together perfectly - you can't even see it and it's probably stronger now but still - yikes!  That's a very thick area too. 

I've got an M1 frame with a tiny hairline crack where it spilts as it heads down to the rear dropouts - behind the seat again.  And I have a hex tube with a hairline crack on the bb - earlier in this thread. I'm scared as hell when I ride these things. I never stand on the pedals.  But they have to be ridden - they are bikes


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Sep 5, 2013)

My dream would be to build from scratch a hex frame with CNC machined 6061 T-6 aluminum 
frame members and Alulight aluminum foam fusion-bonded tubing.
This would be super strong and lightweight.

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac335/sunworksco/image-414.jpg


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## kingsilver (Sep 5, 2013)

Babyjesus - i wasn't being serious about the motor - just joking - since you had all the optional parts for the m1....


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## babyjesus (Sep 5, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> Babyjesus - i wasn't being serious about the motor - just joking - since you had all the optional parts for the m1....




ye - actually when lithium batteries were mentioned I started thinking about electric motors.  I know you weren't being serious though


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## kingsilver (Sep 26, 2013)

SOME MORE SILVER KING RING DESIGNS.


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## peddlepusher (Sep 28, 2013)

*Double Spring fork*

Hi everyone.

I have a hextube- it was my grandpa's  and either a '47 or '48.  Date tag is missing and so is the spring fork.

Question:
will any 26" monark silver king double spring fork fit?

fine print: I know little to nothing about bikes, so looking for serious guidance.

thanks.


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## kingsilver (Oct 14, 2013)

SAN JOAQUIN FAIRGROUNDS STOCKTON CA. OCT.  2013.


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## P.N.A. (Oct 14, 2013)

kingsilver said:


> SAN JOAQUIN FAIRGROUNDS STOCKTON CA. OCT.  2013.




Thanks again Stephen for bringing that beauty out to my show!
-Fabian


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## kingsilver (Oct 14, 2013)

My pleasure fabian - lots of great bikes and people !!! Thanks again !!! Steve.


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## 1fastgramp (Oct 16, 2013)

*Monark Silver King*

I picked this up at a swap meet last week. The greyhound on the fender was used to cover a hole. Almost looked like it was supposed to be.


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## bike (Oct 17, 2013)

*Sweet*



1fastgramp said:


> I picked this up at a swap meet last week. The greyhound on the fender was used to cover a hole. Almost looked like it was supposed to be.




bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## babyjesus (Oct 17, 2013)

1fastgramp said:


> I picked this up at a swap meet last week. The greyhound on the fender was used to cover a hole. Almost looked like it was supposed to be.




Holy moly - I never saw an orig 'wingo' hubcap before.  Waaay cool.  Nice bike! Good score


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## kingsilver (Oct 17, 2013)

1fastgramp said:


> i picked this up at a swap meet last week. The greyhound on the fender was used to cover a hole. Almost looked like it was supposed to be.



nice m1 !!!!   If you want to make it look even nicer - find the original rack and seat.
:d:d


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## chitown (Oct 17, 2013)

1fastgramp said:


> I picked this up at a swap meet last week. The greyhound on the fender was used to cover a hole. Almost looked like it was supposed to be.




Very interesting and very cool, complete (all the hard to get parts anyhow) bike. Yet another variant in the SK offerings. An early '36 M1 _without_ a bulbous head but _with_ a fork lock. I've never seen that except for the Wards version.


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## 1fastgramp (Oct 17, 2013)

*Wingo*

Is the winged hubcap an original item? After I bought this one I found another one about 30 minutes later but much rougher and much higher priced


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## babyjesus (Nov 9, 2013)

*...another older SK*

Almost finished building this one.






Those are chunky monkey aluminium fenders.


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## babyjesus (Dec 12, 2013)

*Ladies 26x?*

...keeping this rather good thread going I would like to ask for info.

I've pretty much consolidated my duralumin silver king collection to all prewar model plus the hextube.

However - I have been told there remains one last, incredibly rare, ladies 26x.  I was even sent scans from the original advertizing.







Looking at the boys version - and comparing it to mine, the ad must be a little later than my 26x because mine has the older 'pencil' springer which is crap and didn't last long but looks cool.

...here:  



So - lets just ignore the springer discrepancy for now.  I was told that the ladies 26x was able to take 26inch wheels obviously and that it might or might not be different in other small ways to a regular ladies L1 frame.  Looking at the ad it sure looks like an L1 from with regular (not bulged) head tube.

So what is this bike?  Has anyone seen one?  Could I make one out of a regular ladies frame by just adding the springer (I have another pencil springer which I could chrome) and the right parts?  This bike is so rare many haven't even heard of it - I know I didn't for a long time - and I have never seen a photo of one or heard speak of one.  The true unicorn of the duralumin silverking bikes perhaps?  It's really the only one I need to complete my collection but should I even be worrying about it?  .....questions questions.  Assuming it has 26inch stainless steel fenders - I can't imagine they would be easy to find even in ladies version.


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## SECRIST (Dec 13, 2013)

*My aluminum*

Here's a one to ad to the mix!


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## island schwinn (Dec 15, 2013)

i just picked up a hexbar,but not sure which year.i bought 2 different racks off ebay before i got the bike and sold the earlier one to a member.now i'm looking at the rack i have,a cheesegrater,and noticed it doesn't bolt to the axle.there's no other place for this rack to mount.i'm thinking i should've held on to both until i actually had the bike.live and learn,i guess.


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## babyjesus (Dec 15, 2013)

island schwinn said:


> i just picked up a hexbar,but not sure which year.i bought 2 different racks off ebay before i got the bike and sold the earlier one to a member.now i'm looking at the rack i have,a cheesegrater,and noticed it doesn't bolt to the axle.there's no other place for this rack to mount.i'm thinking i should've held on to both until i actually had the bike.live and learn,i guess.




Yeah the rack on mine is the older style one - and it mounts to the axle.





....so yours is not long enough to reach the axle I assume?  Otherwise you could just widen the hole to fit over the axle..


----------



## island schwinn (Dec 15, 2013)

i guess i could drill out the mounting holes if the legs are long enough,and looking on the bright side,i helped another member get one step closer to finishing their hexbar  worst case scenario,i'll have to find another rack.it's a long term project,so i'm sure something will come up.
i did find a pedestal light for it though.get the fenders rolled and cleaned up and start the re chroming process.


----------



## babyjesus (Dec 16, 2013)

island schwinn said:


> i guess i could drill out the mounting holes if the legs are long enough,and looking on the bright side,i helped another member get one step closer to finishing their hexbar  worst case scenario,i'll have to find another rack.it's a long term project,so i'm sure something will come up.
> i did find a pedestal light for it though.get the fenders rolled and cleaned up and start the re chroming process.




...you could keep the rack top and make or borrow (from an unused rack) legs that are long enough and will fit the application.  Until you find the right complete rack for the job.  Being aluminium its pretty easy to work with - you could make a set of rack 'legs'.  I'm not sure how often these exact hex bike fitting racks come up - I can't say I have ever noticed the small differences in the legs etc.  It's true the the cheese grater racks on the later Monark SK bikes have small holes and screw on to the frame on the top of the dropouts, above where the axle goes.  They would be too short for sure. But if you have a fully chromed cheesegrater rack then surely it would have to be the hextube one just cuz the only other all chromed rack which is similar looking is the Monark Imperial one which doesn't have the cheesegrater on the end but a panel with a reflector in the middle and directional light/bezel/arrow shaped holes (I can't describe that clearly sorry - the cheesegrater bit is different).


----------



## kingsilver (Dec 21, 2013)

1930'S FLO-CYCLE DESIGN IDEA?


----------



## Sped Man (Dec 21, 2013)

1st week home:




A month ago:


----------



## Sped Man (Dec 24, 2013)

New look for 2014. I installed a New Departure 2 speed shifter. The kick back hub that I had is a real pain in stop and go traffic. I only need to lace up the 2 speed Bendix Manual hub now.


----------



## babyjesus (Dec 24, 2013)

Sped Man said:


> New look for 2014. I installed a New Departure 2 speed shifter. The kick back hub that I had is a real pain in stop and go traffic. I only need to lace up the 2 speed New Departure hub now.




Wow Sped - it looks great.  I agree - kickback not as good as manual shift - in general at least.  Looks amazing your bike now - especially with those murray bars.


----------



## Sped Man (Dec 24, 2013)

babyjesus said:


> Wow Sped - it looks great.  I agree - kickback not as good as manual shift - in general at least.  Looks amazing your bike now - especially with those murray bars.




Thanks Babyjesus. It does look a lot better now than it did when I first got it. I hope one day to have all the original parts for it. I am always amazed at the cool accessories that keep popping up on Ebay and on the CABE. There have been some I have never seen before. American ingenuity keeps amazing me!


----------



## kingsilver (Dec 31, 2013)

*Silver king flo-cycle ring design*

FLO-CYCLE RING DESIGN USING REAR STAY. USED THE DELTA HORN VENTS TO CREATE A CROWN. STONE WILL BE SET ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CROWN.


----------



## kingsilver (Jan 2, 2014)




----------



## kingsilver (Jan 2, 2014)




----------



## Sped Man (Jan 18, 2014)

1948 Silver King hex tube:




Bendix two speed manual hub finally laced up: It is my 2014 look:


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## babyjesus (Jan 19, 2014)

Sped Man said:


> 1948 Silver King hex tube:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Cool- I love the Columbia(?) rack light on the back. I put a Schwinn rack light on the same style of rack once and it fit perfectly too I just had to trim the skirt a tiny it (it was a steel version of that rack)

Looks great - the bars look good on it.


----------



## Cam (Feb 1, 2014)

Just got my 36 Monark Silver King done last month. I didn't have to do a whole lot, the last owner done all the hard work restoring it respoking the wheels, he painted the rims and chain gaurd since the were really rusted. I just replaced the grips with reproduction coke bottles (it had hexa grips on it). Changed the Schwinn pedal blocks for some ones that look a bit more correct, (I added the jewels). Built a battery tube so I could make the horn and light work. Then had my brother weld up the seat because that was missing and you know how it is trying to find the old Troxel tool box seat. So i did the best I could, I think it looks pretty good. Then made the raspberry reflector, and threw on some white walls. I think she looks pretty good, the only thing I need is to get a key for the lock. Anyone know how to go about getting a key made for it? Would a lock smith even touch it, or is it best to leave it alone?


----------



## island schwinn (Feb 1, 2014)

very nice job.you should be proud of it.

i think wes pinchot(fender doctor) on here might be able to help with the key.


----------



## JOEL (Feb 2, 2014)

I found a local locksmith who can make keys for my Silver King locks.


----------



## bike (Feb 27, 2014)

*Why do some rear racks*

have plated legs and some aluminum? Model? Year? Random?

thanks


----------



## tbone (Feb 27, 2014)

Cam said:


> Just got my 36 Monark Silver King done last month. I didn't have to do a whole lot, the last owner done all the hard work restoring it respoking the wheels, he painted the rims and chain gaurd since the were really rusted. I just replaced the grips with reproduction coke bottles (it had hexa grips on it). Changed the Schwinn pedal blocks for some ones that look a bit more correct, (I added the jewels). Built a battery tube so I could make the horn and light work. Then had my brother weld up the seat because that was missing and you know how it is trying to find the old Troxel tool box seat. So i did the best I could, I think it looks pretty good. Then made the raspberry reflector, and threw on some white walls. I think she looks pretty good, the only thing I need is to get a key for the lock. Anyone know how to go about getting a key made for it? Would a lock smith even touch it, or is it best to leave it alone?View attachment 135113View attachment 135114




im no expert in SK bikes, but is that the right chain guard? i thought i saw that chain guard on the "rocket" version [ i think it is called the rocket vers ]


----------



## bike (Feb 27, 2014)

*I have seen a lot of different chain guards on*

all models of sks- they did not seem to worry about the catalog much.


----------



## babyjesus (Feb 27, 2014)

tbone said:


> im no expert in SK bikes, but is that the right chain guard? i thought i saw that chain guard on the "rocket" version [ i think it is called the rocket vers ]




Yeah it looks like the right guard.  Nice bike.  Interesting seat resto - not bad!


----------



## kenspaceliners (Mar 26, 2014)

I picked up this 48 Hex Tube as a frame only. Maybe one day I'll have all the pieces to put it back together stock again. Until then I'll enjoy it as a Rat. I picked up a 36 girls frame last year at a bike show.
Kenny


----------



## scrubbinrims (Mar 26, 2014)

Cam said:


> Built a battery tube so I could make the horn and light work.View attachment 135114



The member JOHN here makes the wire conduit so you can put what's there back on the clothes dryer.
Chris


----------



## babyjesus (Mar 27, 2014)

kenspaceliners said:


> I picked up this 48 Hex Tube as a frame only. Maybe one day I'll have all the pieces to put it back together stock again. Until then I'll enjoy it as a Rat. I picked up a 36 girls frame last year at a bike show.
> Kenny




Cool....


----------



## CCBAM (Mar 29, 2014)

*Picked up this SK tonight.... Give me a critique on the parts...*

Would appreciate a critique of the parts-- obviously the saddle and handle bars are replacements.... All constructive critiques appreciated.

Cheers, Chris


----------



## Sped Man (Apr 6, 2014)

My revamped Silverking Hextube for 2014. Gotta love all that aluminum!


----------



## Jason_wycoff (Jun 17, 2014)

*My Silver Kings*

Hope you like them as much as I do.


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## babyjesus (Jun 18, 2014)

Jason_wycoff said:


> Hope you like them as much as I do.




The red chain on the hex is a perfect touch.  Very cool.

Can I ask

the

obvious

question here...................

Where d'ya get thems chunky red ww tires?

And what size are they?  They are nice, and the red is a good red.

Nice job - nice bikes!  I choose the hex!  but I like 'em both.  The M1 looks good minimal.

Thx for adding them to the thread, you chose the right place I think


----------



## Sped Man (Jun 18, 2014)

Jason_wycoff said:


> Hope you like them as much as I do.




I love both of them. Awesome job! You gave them a personality. Sweeeeeeeeeeet!


----------



## Jason_wycoff (Jun 18, 2014)

*Red W/W tires*

The tires are from Germany 24x3. They also sell 26x2.35 just don't be in a rush to get them I think it took me eight weeks to get mine.
Here is the link 

http://www.classic-cycle.de/en/Tire...Tire-Street-Hog-26-x-2-35-red-white-wall.html

And thanks guys.... I love my Kings can't wait to get my hands on a Wingbar and Flow cycle!!!



babyjesus said:


> The red chain on the hex is a perfect touch.  Very cool.
> 
> Can I ask
> 
> ...


----------



## Jason_wycoff (Jun 18, 2014)

*Here is a detail shot of my chainring*

The Devil is in the details and this is why I call it the Crimson King. LOL the Devil made me do it.


----------



## momona (Jun 19, 2014)

I agree those tires are swEEEET!


----------



## MaxGlide (Jun 22, 2014)

*Slight custom Hex*

couldn't find the stainless fenders and chrome guard so got some Monark fenders and did a bit of custom work...


----------



## Houndog (Jun 22, 2014)

..........


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 22, 2014)

Houndog said:


> ..........




WTH - nice bike!  An orig speedo stem is pretty special these days.


----------



## babyjesus (Jun 22, 2014)

MaxGlide said:


> couldn't find the stainless fenders and chrome guard so got some Monark fenders and did a bit of custom work...
> 
> View attachment 157071
> View attachment 157069
> View attachment 157070




It looks real nice.  I also think the colour you made the fenders is vingery unusual, which makes it interesting.  

I would do one little thing to make it a tiny bit more streamlined - I'd put the rear fender stays over the axle on the inside of the frame so the ends are hidden behind dropouts. 

Cool bike, good job


----------



## gifarmer (Jun 22, 2014)

Jason_wycoff said:


> Hope you like them as much as I do.



Great looking bikes! Where'd you get the red-wall tires?  I'm trying to figure out how to get some red-wall / black-tread 26 x 2.125 tires for mine.


----------



## Jason_wycoff (Jun 22, 2014)

*Greg I posted a link for the tires on page 31 of this thread*

Greg I posted a link for the tires on page 31 of this thread and here is the link for the red wall tires.
https://www.chubbysbikes.com/shop/duro-red-sidewall-beach-cruiser-tire



gifarmer said:


> Great looking bikes! Where'd you get the red-wall tires?  I'm trying to figure out how to get some red-wall / black-tread 26 x 2.125 tires for mine.


----------



## MaxGlide (Jun 23, 2014)

babyjesus.... the colour is from and early 50"s lambretta scooter.... I thought it was art deco-ish and suited the bike....

Will try that fender stay tip...

Wayne


----------



## Sped Man (Jul 30, 2014)

Before:




Recently: 





Currently:





It is a work in progress.


----------



## babyjesus (Jul 30, 2014)

I haven't been on here for ages - but it was worth the visit now - nice Wingbar Sped, you really cleaned her up good, and the red, as always, looks great with silver.  I thought the chainguard in pic 2 looks good on the bike.  

This is for sure the best SK thread on the internet, and one of few which tackles all of the duralium SKs, and not just a few, so it's pretty valuble to anybody researching these bikes, of which many have probably ended up using this thread.  I'd be curious to ask Scott how many unique page visits it gets in an average day or month.  I know whne I was researching Huffmans I came back to the Huffman thread on Cabe through almost every google search, and I reckon there's alot of people out there on the SK trail mainly because they are quite common bikes considering how often one of those models shows up in a barn or garage.  They just don't get the same coverage as other bikes because they don't have tanks - well almost all of them dont - which is also probably why the boys Wingbar is the most popular because it's almost got a tank.

But the Flocycle will always be the most experimental and interesting to me for obvious reasons, as well as having a completely different look to anything else at the time.  I just wish they had invented their pencil springer in time to put it on the Flocycles, making them full suspension.  I'm almost tempted to do it myself.  Even a normal style Hex tube springer would be good, but the pencil one best for the Flo probably, although a matter of personal taste.  

Nobody builds their own stuff out of high quality old stuff anymore - except Sped   Great bike - are you gonna add or change?  What about a chainguard, you have without one or still looking out for a different one?


----------



## Sped Man (Jul 31, 2014)

babyjesus said:


> I haven't been on here for ages - but it was worth the visit now - nice Wingbar Sped, you really cleaned her up good, and the red, as always, looks great with silver.  I thought the chainguard in pic 2 looks good on the bike.
> 
> This is for sure the best SK thread on the internet, and one of few which tackles all of the duralium SKs, and not just a few, so it's pretty valuble to anybody researching these bikes, of which many have probably ended up using this thread.  I'd be curious to ask Scott how many unique page visits it gets in an average day or month.  I know whne I was researching Huffmans I came back to the Huffman thread on Cabe through almost every google search, and I reckon there's alot of people out there on the SK trail mainly because they are quite common bikes considering how often one of those models shows up in a barn or garage.  They just don't get the same coverage as other bikes because they don't have tanks - well almost all of them dont - which is also probably why the boys Wingbar is the most popular because it's almost got a tank.
> 
> ...




BabyJesus that is the chainguard, I am going to use on the Wingbar. It is out being..............................rechromed. You heard me right CABE members Sped Man has lost his mind!  I took my Hex Tube chainguard and my Wingbar chainguard and dropped them off at the rechromer three weeks ago. I finally listened to Freqman1 advice. It isn't easy restoring these bikes. Parts are murder to find and when you do get lucky enough to buy the correct part the owner wants a small fortune for it. I had a guy offer me a bicycle tank for more money than what I paid for my 1970 Z28! I kid you not!


----------



## PINOYRODDER (Aug 3, 2014)

*kustom hex*

sharing my ratrod project soon to hit the streets of Manila


----------



## babyjesus (Aug 3, 2014)

PINOYRODDER said:


> sharing my ratrod project soon to hit the streets of Manila View attachment 163005




Wow I think it's great you are in Manila - I think I know of one other collector of old US tank bikes in the Philippines.  For my part, I didnt even know they existed until I'd lived in Canada for a few years, and even then it was just total luck I found and learned about them.   So in the Philippines I would assume it's not any easier - quite how people end up noticing and loving these bikes is always an interesting story.   I was just lucky because I ran into a stranger who it turned out has some of the nicest bikes on Nostalgic.net when I was going for a coffee on a ladies Elgin with no tank, just skirt guards - which I didn't knowe what it was but loved it and rode it anyway, and he told me all about everything when he saw me riding that bike - he stopped me in the street whcih was great because I had alot fo questions about the oddity I was riding.

Nothing has ever been the same since 

Good idea to get a hex tube - people will love it more than they would a tank bike because I notice most people take a while to really start liking the tank bikes and more dressed up bikes.  A hex tube is just amazing to anyone who has likes any kind of bike whereas, for example, an x-53 will at first seem over the top.  It took me a few months to really start liking them all - it took me time to come around to liking twinbars because they seemed a bit grotesque or something but now they are easily my favourite bikes because they adopt a less is more theme without compromising style or streamlining.  

So I will make a guess and say that riding either of those 2 bikes in the picture around the streets of Manila is going to draw alot of attention.  To be fair I'm sure there's alot more bicycles there being a hot country to live in but still - those will stand out regardless - like a cadillac would in a car park full of minis.

...............................

Hey Sped, I think Shawn might have a point for your specific situation.    You are ahead of me as I have never had something chromed - I heard it costs a bomb and it's always hard to touch something orig.  But I still believe in sticking to the design of the creator/designer whilst keeping originality where possible.  When you have an all silver bike with some rusty chrome parts they stand out alot and change the look of it - the designer wasn't planning on a silver bike with brown parts on it - I think, so after a point, I think Shawn is right, it's best to get it rechromed.  Actually if it were me I'd get it re-nickeled because I find new chrome to be too  much - maybe a hex tube or duralium SK would be some of the few models of bikes where actual chrome works because ther rest of the bike can be shined to match.  If it were an orig paint bike in fair to good shape a new chrome part would stand out like a sore thumb.  But your bike, Sped, is shiny and new looking already - it looks great - that's a very cool thing I like alot about SKs - they are cheap to restore and they look very nice cleaned up - almost like they are completely chromed.

So good plan - just - curious how much it cost to chrome one wing style guard like that.  I assume regular chrome, not triple show bla bla bla chrome?  Gonna look great - hope both you guys will upload pics of your bikes all done and on the road.  

Would be cool to see a hex parked in central Manila


----------



## Sped Man (Aug 26, 2014)

Bumping this bad boy up: 
Current status almost finished.


----------



## Houndog (Aug 26, 2014)

babyjesus said:


> I haven't been on here for ages - but it was worth the visit now - nice Wingbar Sped, you really cleaned her up good, and the red, as always, looks great with silver.  I thought the chainguard in pic 2 looks good on the bike.
> 
> This is for sure the best SK thread on the internet, and one of few which tackles all of the duralium SKs, and not just a few, so it's pretty valuble to anybody researching these bikes, of which many have probably ended up using this thread.  I'd be curious to ask Scott how many unique page visits it gets in an average day or month.  I know whne I was researching Huffmans I came back to the Huffman thread on Cabe through almost every google search, and I reckon there's alot of people out there on the SK trail mainly because they are quite common bikes considering how often one of those models shows up in a barn or garage.  They just don't get the same coverage as other bikes because they don't have tanks - well almost all of them dont - which is also probably why the boys Wingbar is the most popular because it's almost got a tank.
> 
> ...





 I'm going to put a Girvin on my Flocycle ...."GASP"   I'm serious..


----------



## joel.romeo.79 (Aug 26, 2014)

Mine just hangs next to my desk all the time. I have been polishing cast aluminum since I was in middle school. When I get my hands on a hockey stick truss rods and a few more bits I will take it down and put a mirror finish on the castings. I haven't even thought about the lock. The day I picked it up I met a group downtown to photograph the nether bits and architecture in Dallas. I had hell keeping up with them but my friend got a really cool shot of the 1936 Worlds Fair grounds with my bike in it that turned out awesome 


It wasn't me I swear.


----------



## joel.romeo.79 (Aug 26, 2014)

vincev said:


> is there any quick or easy way to get the frames polished?




Find a 1930's 1940's Scott and Fetzer tool. The aluminum used in the castings is different from what they use now. Practice on those. 
This aluminum runs the same way when you buff it 


It is about the same age. Flitz and a real diaper that has been washed a thousand times will get you some where on a really rough one but you really need wheels and rouge. The old tools you find will outlast the bs they sell now too. 



It wasn't me I swear.


----------



## bike (Oct 30, 2014)

*OK somebody plz explain this!!!???*





stolen from the babes thread


----------



## momona (Nov 12, 2014)

*^^^^^^^*

If you are asking about that fork.... i wasnt aware that this bike came with that fork.  It didn't as far as i know... copywright '40.  What year did that fork start getting used?


----------



## bike (Nov 13, 2014)

*Seems that is the mysterious*



momona said:


> If you are asking about that fork.... i wasnt aware that this bike came with that fork.  It didn't as far as i know... copywright '40.  What year did that fork start getting used?




"girls 26x"


----------



## cyclonecoaster.com (Nov 13, 2014)

*Looks like a modern photo - made to look old .. as far as the bike goes .....*



bike said:


> stolen from the babes thread




The bicycles will fit a 26" wheel in the front & rear as a stock bicycle ... This bike obviously has been modified - No it's not a 26X ladies - The front fork is a 26 inch Monark Spring fork - the rear is also a 26" wheel - If you look close the wheel is really close to the fender ( no space between tire & fender ) - Like I said 26 " rims & tires will fit - they just come really close to the fenders - Don't believe me - try it on one of your Silverkings next time you have it on a repair stand - It was probably slipped into the babes thread by the owner of the bike just for them to see how long it would take for someone to notice the bicycle & catch on to the modification ... stranger things have happened - Ride Vintage - Frank


----------



## bike (Nov 13, 2014)

*^^^^^^^^^^^REALLY? photo looks real to me*

1940 catalog page 26" w CHROME springer (No cap on springer crown as on post war monarks)
Note pictured bike has proper headlight and horn- fender braces etc notice bike in photo has FLAIR front fender...front and rear have semi tubular braces- someone went to a lot of trouble to make their 24" bike LOOK like a 26..and get a girl from the time machine!

Took you guys a long time to comment_ was waiting to drop this bomb..


----------



## bricycle (Nov 13, 2014)

bike said:


> stolen from the babes thread




rear wheel not on the ground...


----------



## Balloontyre (Nov 13, 2014)

bike said:


> stolen from the babes thread






cyclonecoaster.com said:


> It was probably slipped into the babes thread by the owner of the bike just for them to see how long it would take for someone to notice the bicycle & catch on to the modification ... stranger things have happened - Ride Vintage - Frank






bricycle said:


> rear wheel not on the ground...




It's an original pic as far as I know Frank, 
Stand has rear wheel lifted, bricycle man.


----------



## bikiba (Nov 13, 2014)

cyclonecoaster.com said:


> The bicycles will fit a 26" wheel in the front & rear as a stock bicycle ... This bike obviously has been modified - No it's not a 26X ladies - The front fork is a 26 inch Monark Spring fork - the rear is also a 26" wheel - If you look close the wheel is really close to the fender ( no space between tire & fender ) - Like I said 26 " rims & tires will fit - they just come really close to the fenders - Don't believe me - try it on one of your Silverkings next time you have it on a repair stand - It was probably slipped into the babes thread by the owner of the bike just for them to see how long it would take for someone to notice the bicycle & catch on to the modification ... stranger things have happened - Ride Vintage - Frank





I posted this in the babes section. I pulled it off of ebay when i was cruising for SKs


----------



## kingsilver (Jan 1, 2015)

*hand cut paper #2 Silver King M137  23 1/2" X 30 1/2"*


----------



## kingsilver (Jan 1, 2015)

*hand cut paper #2 Silver King M137  23 1/2" X 30 1/2"*


----------



## kingsilver (Jan 1, 2015)

*hand cut paper #2 Silver King M137  23 1/2" X 30 1/2"*


----------



## kingsilver (Jan 1, 2015)

*hand cut paper #2 Silver King M137  23 1/2" X 30 1/2"*


----------



## momona (Apr 4, 2015)

Any more pics of those complete or not so complete winter projects?  Let's bring this thread back to life...

I need some inspiration.


----------



## momona (Apr 5, 2015)

Saw this in long beach last week... not sure if someone snagged it, but it wasnt there when i left....


----------



## PINOYRODDER (Jul 14, 2015)

Sharing my Wingbar project , latest update


----------



## Sped Man (Jul 15, 2015)

My revamped 2015 Hex tube


----------



## mike j (Jul 15, 2015)

Pretty cool, I like 'em that way. Shaken not stirred.


----------



## PINOYRODDER (Jul 16, 2015)

finally done....


----------



## PINOYRODDER (Jul 30, 2015)

a better view :o


----------



## Euphman06 (Jul 4, 2016)

I'm working on a 1935 right now. Polishing for HOURS, and I'll soon be sending some parts out for rechroming. Bars, stem, chainguard, rims, truss rods, etc.... Mine has the 28 hole triple step rims, does anyone have a SK like that? I'd love to see it.


----------



## Sped Man (Jul 4, 2016)

updating that horrible photo I posted previously.


----------



## momona (Aug 29, 2017)

A lot of activity in the for sale section lately....  What's everyone's take on the SK market, and where it's headed?

Seen my share of cheap parts exchange hands this past year....


----------



## kingfish254 (Aug 30, 2017)

Here is before and after of my 1935 Silver King. "SaltHammer" was my entry for the Rat Rod Bikes Build Off 11 last year.


----------



## TINYuproar (Aug 30, 2017)

Does anyone here have a winged stem they want to sell me?  Here's my hex-rat in progress...








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Onewheelsqueel (Aug 30, 2017)

I've had 6 SK's, most just frames.  Here's a few I've owned and one I still do. 



 

 

 


The Hot rod king. Owned by @Pookie42 now 


 

 

 

I missed the Hot Rod King so much I built another SK. It's a '36 originally with green anodized tubes. It's my favorite rider with a KT-2 kickback 2spd  e


----------



## ratrodz (Aug 30, 2017)

I like silverkings! Lol!!!


----------



## Glenn Rhein (Aug 30, 2017)




----------



## momona (Aug 30, 2017)

Glenn Rhein said:


> View attachment 668565



Glenn just dropped the mic.


----------



## catfish (Aug 31, 2017)




----------



## ratrodz (Aug 31, 2017)




----------



## ratrodz (Aug 31, 2017)




----------



## mike j (Aug 31, 2017)

I'm so glad that this thread got resurrected. There are some beautiful aluminum machines out there. Some really nice originals, with all the toys & whistles. Here's my 36, revamped with recently acquired parts, from a couple of good Caber's. Actually, some of Glenn's hand me downs.


----------



## TR6SC (Aug 31, 2017)

Is there a doctor in the house? I'm getting sick of polishing this thing!


----------



## Sped Man (Sep 5, 2017)




----------



## TINYuproar (Sep 5, 2017)

Can anyone who owns a hex tell me how do I loosen and move the seat post?  (It's not rusted on this frame for once).  Also, is the original post supposed to be hex shaped?  Or is this original?  It's mounted in a wood sleeve...but looks factory? 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sped Man (Sep 26, 2017)

Updating my hex tube photo.


----------



## Balloonatic (Sep 28, 2017)

The RED HEX RAT... see my post: https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/red-hex-rat.117404/#post-787273


----------



## silverking surfer (Jan 18, 2018)

my silver king bikes


----------



## bikepaulie (Jan 18, 2018)

1935 Hawthorne Silver King. looking for original seat, grips, pedals, fender light.


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## Glenn Rhein (May 11, 2018)

javascript:%20void(0)

 Thanks to Arron For his expertise, to Josh for his wonderful work on the seat and John for the ferrules, conduit and horn button clamp.  I’m missing the left side torrington 10. Still looking.  Mostly original, I did not polish it just cleaned it up added a few missing parts. I  re-chromed the seat post and piecrust, They were too far gone for me.
 Just finish this today and took it out for it’s maiden ride, and nothing fell off.


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## tech549 (May 13, 2018)

this bike I purchased about 5 years ago as just a frame and have slowly got it together its my wifes every day rider,and just picked up the mens bike and have been getting it to my liking!


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## catfish (May 13, 2018)

tech549 said:


> this bike I purchased about 5 years ago as just a frame and have slowly got it together its my wifes every day rider,and just picked up the mens bike and have been getting it to my liking!
> 
> View attachment 805991
> 
> View attachment 805993




Nice!


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## silverking surfer (May 3, 2019)

1934 Silver King Window Lugged Frame-Custom


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## tech549 (May 3, 2019)

37 m-1


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## Sped Man (Jul 23, 2019)




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## Kickstand3 (Jul 23, 2019)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## TR6SC (Jul 23, 2019)




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## John (Sep 4, 2022)

26" M1 and 26" 26X


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