# 1951 Cyclelock and kickstand removal



## wheelygirl (Aug 30, 2013)

Ok down to the final removal. I have everything apart on my '51 straightbar frame and ready for powder coating. Everything but the lock and the kickstand that is. I've been avoiding it but I guess it's time to bite the bullet. I have not been able to find any complete instructions for removal and reinstall for the cycle lock. It's making me nervous.   Anyway if anyone can help me with info for removing these two things and maybe some helpful tricks it would be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance.


----------



## greenephantom (Aug 30, 2013)

The Cycelock is an involved process. Can't be explained w/o pictures. And even with pictures it's kind of tough. You might want to send it to Wes Pinchot for dis-assembly and then send him the powder-coated piece for re-assembly.

Kickstand is easier. There's a metal ring at the top of the kickstand. Use a pair of channel locks to press this in a bit and then pull out the little pin. If you push the metal ring in too far the pin won't come out. 

Cheers, Geoff


----------



## wheelygirl (Aug 30, 2013)

I kind of thought that about the lock. Unfortunately I live in Canada and that might be a lengthy and expensive way to go. I debated trying to mask it but I only have an inkling of how the powdercoating process goes and it didn't seem the right route to go. Hmmmm.......


----------



## rustjunkie (Aug 30, 2013)

There are 2 types of tools for the kickstand that I know of: the original Schwinn type and the currently available Park KS-1.
I've never used the original type, but the Park works great. 
Looks like Electra sells a similar tool.
Here's an illustration of the old style in use, and pics of the Park:


----------



## wheelygirl (Aug 30, 2013)

Thank you for that alw. I was wondering if it would require a special tool for the job. 

Maybe I should have also asked this question as well. If I try to remove the lock is it gonna come apart in a whole bunch of pieces? I really don't much like surprises.


----------



## rustjunkie (Aug 30, 2013)

wheelygirl said:


> Thank you for that alw. I was wondering if it would require a special tool for the job.




Not a problem! 
If you google Schwinn kickstand removal you'll find some creative ways of doing it w/o the correct tool.


----------



## Larmo63 (Aug 30, 2013)

Most of us are not real big fans of powder coating, but in some cases and for primer, it's fine. 

The kickstand should come out with a bit of prodding. The lock is a lot more involved. You could

easily paint around it, I'm not sire about powder coat.


----------



## spoker (Aug 30, 2013)

most definatley mask off thr lock im sure you powder coater will work with you,AJ


----------



## greenephantom (Aug 30, 2013)

With the lock, yes, there are a few small pieces, including a spring, that must be re-assembled correctly. I've done it before, but you need like three hands to do it and the available directions (even the ones included in the repop lock kits) aren't the best.  

To get into the lock, you'll have to drill a hole in the bottom cap opposite the lock mech, pry out the cap, push down a tab on the tumbler to remove the tumbler bit, then push a pin out to remove the lever arm that throws the deadbolt piece. The pin that holds the lever arm has two different spacers on it plus a spring. Lots of ways to assemble wrong, one way to assemble right. If you take it apart, take detailed notes or pictures. It's not rocket science, but it can be a tricky thing.  Also, there's a brass liner bit for the tumbler, leave in place, not designed to be removed, plus fragile.

You might well be able to mask and then powdercoat the locking fork yoke.  I used to do powdercoating, so I really should know the oven temps they use,  but I forget. It will cook out any old grease that's in there. I don't think it will get hot enough to damage the internals, but I'm not totally sure.  Another option, if you're coating it a common color, just use a high quality rattle-can paint (high-temp engine paint or the like) on the yoke.

Cheers, Geoff


----------



## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Aug 30, 2013)

greenephantom said:


> With the lock, yes, there are a few small pieces, including a spring, that must be re-assembled correctly. I've done it before, but you need like three hands to do it and the available directions (even the ones included in the repop lock kits) aren't the best.
> 
> To get into the lock, you'll have to drill a hole in the bottom cap opposite the lock mech, pry out the cap, push down a tab on the tumbler to remove the tumbler bit, then push a pin out to remove the lever arm that throws the deadbolt piece. The pin that holds the lever arm has two different spacers on it plus a spring. Lots of ways to assemble wrong, one way to assemble right. If you take it apart, take detailed notes or pictures. It's not rocket science, but it can be a tricky thing.  Also, there's a brass liner bit for the tumbler, leave in place, not designed to be removed, plus fragile.
> 
> ...




What happens if you remove said brass thing?..  Also what it the pin for on the left side of yoke?. Does it hold in said brass thingy?


----------



## WES PINCHOT (Aug 30, 2013)

*Cycle lock*

I DON'T RECOMMEND A NOVICE TAKE APART THE CYCLE LOCK.

YES, THERE ARE PRINTED INSTRUCTIONS ON THE INTERNET, BUT
IT IS STILL TRICKY AND TAKES PATIENCE. I HAVE DONE MANY REPAIRS. 
REMOVALS AND REINSTALLATIONS.

IF THE POWDER COAT TAKES HEAT, THEN IT MAY COOK THE GREASE OUT.
I LIKE THE SUGGESTION OF PAINTING THE CASTING OF THE STEER TUBE
WITH A RATTLE CAN PAINT TO MATCH THE POWDER COAT COLOR. 
BUT, BE SURE AND MASK THE CYLINDER FACE IF YOU BEAD BLAST IT 
AND WHEN YOU PAINT THE CASTING.

I AM ALWAYS AVAILABLE TO DISASSEMBLE THE LOCK AND REMOVE THE PARTS,
REINSTALL AND LUBE AFTER PAINTING, BUT I KNOW THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS
SHIPPING BACK AND FORTH FROM THE STATES TO CANADA.

GOOD LUCK.
WES PINCHOT
wespinchot@yahoo.com
847 259 0484


----------



## wheelygirl (Aug 30, 2013)

Thanks to everyone. I was thinking powdercoat for the initial colour only and rattle cans for the rest but maybe I'll reconsider. The fellow I was going to ask to do the powdercoating is a friend of a friend. I'm thinking I will ask him before I try anything and knowing the materials in the components of the lock will help with an informed decision. He will be able to give me a better idea. Apparently there is another type of primer called e-coat I'm guessing must be something like powdercoating? I had a feeling this might get a little complicated.  I really appreciate all the information. It's a great help.


----------



## greenephantom (Aug 31, 2013)

The brass bit is held in by a pin on the left side, so likely it's the pin you're thinking about. Nothing bad happens if you remove the brass bit, it's just one of those things that would be very hard to remove without breaking it. Plus I don't think it was even designed to be removed. If one was to break, then the pin could be driven out from the inside, but with an intact brass sleeve in place, there's no good way to remove the pin. Sleeping dogs, you know,.
Cheers, Geoff


----------



## WES PINCHOT (Aug 31, 2013)

*Note to the green phantom*

ALL SCHWINN CYCLELOCK PARTS CAN BE REMOVED, REPAIRED, 
REINSTALLED AND/OR REPLACED WITHOUT DAMAGE TO THE CYCLE LOCKS.

I ALSO REMOVE BROKEN KEYS FROM THE SCHWINN CYCLELOCKS.

THAT IS A SERVICE THAT I HAVE PROVIDED FOR THE HOBBY
FOR TWENTY FIVE YEARS.
AND ALL THE CABERS!

I STILL HAVE ORIGINAL SCHWINN/YALE "AN" KEYS ALREADY
CUT AND STAMPED "AN***" AVAILABLE FROM MY COLLECTION.

AND STILL CUTTING SMOOTH BRASS KEYS TO SCHWINN "AN" CODE FOR $10.

ALSO HAVE MANY DIFFERENT PREWAR AND POST WAR LOCKING
SCHWINN FORKS AND STEERING TUBES FOR SALE.

IF INTERESTED PLEASE EMAIL DIRECT:
wespinchot@yahoo.com
WES PINCHOT AKA THE FENDER DOCTOR.

NOT DOING MANY FENDERS ANY MORE, ONLY SPECIAL REQUESTS, 
SINCE THERE ARE 300 FENDER ROLLERS OUT THERE NOW.


----------



## Ozark Flyer (Aug 31, 2013)

Perhaps this will help


----------

