# How do you guys bust rust this bad?



## Bike from the Dead

I bought this rusty Schwinn back in January for $20, and while it was not the slightly-less-rusty Schwinn straight bar I had driven an hour away from home to buy, I could tell from the remaining paint on this frame that this bike was special. While I'm no expert, it must've been a Black Phantom at one point in its life; now, only the frame, the pedal blocks and a little paint is all that's left to tell the tale. It It was completely frozen solid from rust when I bought it, but I figured it was worth a gamble at $20.








A couple weeks ago, I started chipping away at disassembling this bike. First I mixed and applied a solution @Oldbikeguy1960 recommended of 1 part acetone and 3 parts used automatic transmission fluid to all the parts I wanted to break loose. It seemed to help on a couple parts after soaking for a few days, but I found that using a propane torch worked better on other parts. First, I took the rear wheel off, then I tried removing the bottom bracket assembly. I had never seen a pedal rusted this badly before, but I was able to get it off the crank at least.




Getting the crank off the frame, on the other hand, proved to be more challenging. I found that hitting the crank arms with a hammer seemed to free everything up, but instead, I found that I was merely threading the crank through the bearing nut, which no amount of hitting with a hammer and screwdriver would break free.







Here's what that first round of progress looked like.




While I was able to free up a few parts thanks to that home-brewed solution and a torch, I would have to sacrifice a few parts if I wanted to get this bike torn down to the bare frame. I had no problem cutting the handlebar stem to remove the fork, but I would've preferred sparing the crank arm if I could. Still, I could replace it later, so I cut off one arm near the threads so I could remove it from the frame.










If there's a way for me to save this bearing cup, I'd like to use it again, but it appears the bearing is stuck to it. No telling whether it's salvageable at this time. But that's not even the craziest part...







I have never encountered rust this bad before. The bottom bracket bearings are _fused _to the bearing cups! And I wouldn't be surprised if the bearing cups are fairly stuck to the frame as well.







It might be possible to get the headset bearing cups out, but they're pretty stuck as well. Also, one more hint that this might've been a Black Phantom is the bottom bearing cup seems to be designed for a locking springer fork. I've not seen a bearing cup like this before, so I'd like to salvage it if I can.







I was able to cut off the seat clamp bolt, but the seat post is pretty stuck in there, even after soaking the solution around it for over a week.




Here's where I stand and what I need help with: As rough as it looks, this frame does appear salvageable. There are no major dents, the rear triangle is straight, there are no rust holes, and I even loosened up the kickstand. I really want to try and build this bike back up, either with equally-rusty stock Black Phantom parts, or as a custom rat bike. Either way, I want to preserve what's left of the original paint, as it's the whole reason I even bought this bike. The problem is that I don't know how I'll remove the last few remaining parts without damaging the frame or the paint. Last time I tried to remove a really-stuck seat post, it did not end well, mostly because I took it to someone who didn't know what they were doing. I also don't know how I'll remove the rusty bearing cups, as hitting them with a hammer and screwdriver doesn't seem to be enough. And my ATF/acetone solution seems to be capable of only so much. If anyone here can help me figure out how to save this frame, I'd really appreciate it!


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## SJ_BIKER

Looks like a salvageable frame.  For the seat post....soak it with penetrating fluid and as for bearings...those can be replaced so I'd bust them out. Be careful with the lock cup. Otherwise be patient and let penetrating fluid do it's job. And as for the rusty brittle stuff.....do like Ron Swanson bellow and don't look back....


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## Bike from the Dead

SJ_BIKER said:


> Looks like a salvageable frame.  For the seat post....soak it with penetrating fluid and as for bearings...those can be replaced so I'd bust them out. Be careful with the lock cup. Otherwise be patient and let penetrating fluid do it's job. And as for the rusty brittle stuff.....do like Ron Swanson bellow and don't look back....
> 
> View attachment 1572805



Thanks. I use PB Blaster usually, but this time I tried using a 1/4 acetone and 3/4 *used* ATF solution @Oldbikeguy1960 suggested. Is there another penetrating fluid you'd recommend for this? I'm open to ideas.

As for the bearings and bearing cups, I have no problem replacing them; it's removing them that's the problem. They're stuck in there pretty good. I think I could loosen up the headset cups with PB Blaster or the other solution if I let them soak long enough, but is there a specific way to get that one out? I normally just use a hammer and a flathead screwdriver to bust the usual kind out, but this one's deep inside the frame.

As long as the frame isn't part of the "rusty, brittle stuff," I'm okay with that!


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## kreika

Kroil penetrating oil!


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## Fritz Katzenjammer

I had a friend who bought a Harley motor which had spent years in a field running a pump before being left to rot. He tossed it in a tub full of Coca Cola for about a month and then claimed to have little problem getting it apart. I’m met a few guys in vintage motorcycles who swear by Coke, and here I thought it was just for breakfast.

kinda makes you wonder what it does to your innards though.


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Coke and Pepsi as well as most soft drinks contain Phosphoric Acid.
In science class we put a small nail in a jar of Coke and sealed it. In a week we checked and it had ate the nail up completly.


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## Bike from the Dead

kreika said:


> Kroil penetrating oil!



Awesome, thanks!


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## Bike from the Dead

Fritz Katzenjammer said:


> I had a friend who bought a Harley motor which had spent years in a field running a pump before being left to rot. He tossed it in a tub full of Coca Cola for about a month and then claimed to have little problem getting it apart. I’m met a few guys in vintage motorcycles who swear by Coke, and here I thought it was just for breakfast.
> 
> kinda makes you wonder what it does to your innards though.



Reminds me of that episode of Mythbusters dedicated to Coca-Cola myths.

I might be able to try that technique. I don't drink the stuff anyway, so using it as a rust-buster is fine by me.


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## Bike from the Dead

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> Coke and Pepsi as well as most soft drinks contain Phosphoric Acid.
> In science class we put a small nail in a jar of Coke and sealed it. In a week we checked and it had ate the nail up completly.



That explains it. Makes me worried that soaking bike parts in that stuff for too long would damage them, though.


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## Nashman

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> Coke and Pepsi as well as most soft drinks contain Phosphoric Acid.
> In science class we put a small nail in a jar of Coke and sealed it. In a week we checked and it had ate the nail up completly.



"Coke, the pause that refreshes? Things go better with Coke?" Pepsi....."Come alive, Your in the Pepsi generation". Lets think up a jingle for this, "plop, plop, fizz, fizz, "oh my, what happened to thiz?


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## Oldbikeguy1960

You want to limit it to a short period, Naval Jelly I believe says no more than 15 minutes for chrome or it will discolor. 
Oxalic Acid is much better for cleaning chrome without scrubbing.


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Nashman said:


> "Coke, the pause that refreshes? Things go better with Coke?" Pepsi....."Come alive, Your in the Pepsi generation". Lets think up a jingle for this, "plop, plop, fizz, fizz, "oh my, what happened to thiz?



I just got a 2 disc DVD of commercials from the 1950s-1970s. I am sure all those are on there!


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Man, we are doing this on two forums. I thought I was just confused!


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## GTs58

I'd do an acid soak. Clean up around the seat post and then seal it off with some paraffin wax from an old birthday cake candle. Flip the bike over and get a cup of undiluted vinegar and pour it in the seat mast from the bottom bracket. Let it soak for 6 hrs or so and see what happens. Do the same on the BB cups getting the vinegar around the inside of the seating area.


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## Bike from the Dead

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> Man, we are doing this on two forums. I thought I was just confused!



Haha, yeah I tend to post the same stuff on here and RRB most of the time. I know there's a lot of folks using both forums, but not everyone. I always figure the more help I can get, the better. Sometimes I get a little confused by it myself!


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## Bike from the Dead

GTs58 said:


> I'd do an acid soak. Clean up around the seat post and then seal it off with some paraffin wax from an old birthday cake candle. Flip the bike over and get a cup of undiluted vinegar and pour it in the seat mast from the bottom bracket. Let it soak for 6 hrs or so and see what happens. Do the same on the BB cups getting the vinegar around the inside of the seating area.



Not going to lie, out of all the solutions provided so far, this one sounds the most... confusing and difficult. I'd like to try some of the other ideas out first, but I appreciate your advice, and I might just try it if nothing else works.


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Bike from the Dead said:


> Not going to lie, out of all the solutions provided so far, this one sounds the most... confusing and difficult. I'd like to try some of the other ideas out first, but I appreciate your advice, and I might just try it if nothing else works.



Would it help on the confusion if you plugged the end of the tube with a cork instead of the wax?


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## J-wagon

Oh man, rusted seized seatpost especially that one smushed way down is the worst. Looks like lots of post surface area inside the tube. Perhaps make vertical cut in post running from between seattube slot up to top of post, like with dremel cutting wheel or similar. Squeeze post betwn vice or similar. Resulting flex should free up some area. And can drip some solution into the gap too. 

Or if you have long cutting blade, carefully cut vertical line inside post (careful to not cut seattube) and then squeeze to break free as much post surface contact area away. Then solution soak and twist as usual. 

I've done this with seized interfaces with success. But not smushed down like yours. 

Good luck!


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## Oldbikeguy1960

Bike from the Dead said:


> Haha, yeah I tend to post the same stuff on here and RRB most of the time. I know there's a lot of folks using both forums, but not everyone. I always figure the more help I can get, the better. Sometimes I get a little confused by it myself!



The funny part is that we are on both forums doing this in real time!


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## GTs58

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> Would it help on the confusion if you plugged the end of the tube with a cork instead of the wax?




Sealing up the top of the seat mast around the seat post so the acid will not drip out when the bike is flipped over is the objective. Seal it however you think will work so the acid will stay filled up all around to the end of seat tube. It's actually pretty simple. Or throw the whole frame in a hot mix of OA.


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## dirtman

That looks like a candidate for an overnight soak in some Evapo Rust. 
Start with a thorough degreasing and soak it till the rust is gone.


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969

What is the serial number? Did you verify that it is a heavy weight?


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## WillWork4Parts

For the cups, a heavy drift is your friend, and possibly a bigger hammer. Typically what I use is a 5/8 diameter and that has enough weight to take out "regular crust" bearing cups. Also make sure the frame is braced against something like a 4x4 on the ground, that way all that hammer/drift energy isn't being lost towards flexing the frame or stand you are using. If you're already impatient with the rust, break out the hack saw or sawzall...just be careful and precise to keep your cut level and off the frame...and way slower when you get within a few thousandths from cutting the frame. If the bearings really are that frozen to the cups, I'd start cutting. When I get time later, I'll share pics of my Excalibur seatpost I removed from a Monark Bearcat that I wanted to save the paint on.


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## Bike from the Dead

Oldbikeguy1960 said:


> Would it help on the confusion if you plugged the end of the tube with a cork instead of the wax?



It does help a bit. I think I get what he's saying now. I just haven't done any acid baths before, so I'm a little hesitant to try it on this bike, especially with the red paint that I'm trying to preserve.


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## Bike from the Dead

J-wagon said:


> Oh man, rusted seized seatpost especially that one smushed way down is the worst. Looks like lots of post surface area inside the tube. Perhaps make vertical cut in post running from between seattube slot up to top of post, like with dremel cutting wheel or similar. Squeeze post betwn vice or similar. Resulting flex should free up some area. And can drip some solution into the gap too.
> 
> Or if you have long cutting blade, carefully cut vertical line inside post (careful to not cut seattube) and then squeeze to break free as much post surface contact area away. Then solution soak and twist as usual.
> 
> I've done this with seized interfaces with success. But not smushed down like yours.
> 
> Good luck!



I've been given a few other ideas on how to remove the seat post that I'd like to try first, but I like your idea, and I'm willing to try it if nothing else works. Thanks!


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## Bike from the Dead

GTs58 said:


> Sealing up the top of the seat mast around the seat post so the acid will not drip out when the bike is flipped over is the objective. Seal it however you think will work so the acid will stay filled up all around to the end of seat tube. It's actually pretty simple. Or throw the whole frame in a hot mix of OA.



Okay, when you put it like that, it makes a lot more sense to me. I've got another Idea I'd like to try first, but I could probably use your idea to help loosen the seat post up first.

I need to try doing an OA bath at some point. I've got all the ingredients, but I've been a bit nervous to try it on any of my bikes.


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## Bike from the Dead

dirtman said:


> That looks like a candidate for an overnight soak in some Evapo Rust.
> Start with a thorough degreasing and soak it till the rust is gone.



I think that's worth a shot. I've got a gallon of Evaporust I could use. I don't know if I've got the best container for the frame to soak in, but I think this idea would be easy enough to try. Thanks!


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## Bike from the Dead

coasterbrakejunkie1969 said:


> What is the serial number? Did you verify that it is a heavy weight?










I'm willing to bet it's a 1955 model, but the real way I know it's a heavyweight and not a middleweight is the space between the seat stays is wider than on my middleweight 1965 Schwinn Hollywood. This was definitely a balloon tire bike.

Also, because I forgot to share this in the original post, here was the only other external clue to this bike's identity:


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## Bike from the Dead

WillWork4Parts said:


> For the cups, a heavy drift is your friend, and possibly a bigger hammer. Typically what I use is a 5/8 diameter and that has enough weight to take out "regular crust" bearing cups. Also make sure the frame is braced against something like a 4x4 on the ground, that way all that hammer/drift energy isn't being lost towards flexing the frame or stand you are using. If you're already impatient with the rust, break out the hack saw or sawzall...just be careful and precise to keep your cut level and off the frame...and way slower when you get within a few thousandths from cutting the frame. If the bearings really are that frozen to the cups, I'd start cutting. When I get time later, I'll share pics of my Excalibur seatpost I removed from a Monark Bearcat that I wanted to save the paint on.



I think I might be able to do that. I want to try a few other, _more forgiving_ methods first, but if I need to bust out a sawsall or hacksaw blade to get the bearing cups out, I'll do it. Thanks for the tip!


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## WillWork4Parts

Bike from the Dead said:


> I don't know if I've got the best container for the frame to soak in, but I think this idea would be easy enough to try. Thanks!



I think that's why the guys are suggesting to plug the top of the seatpost...turn the bike upside down and you only need to fill the seat tube with a funnel from the crank hanger. 
Whatever you do, don't crush that seatpost until you're ready to be dedicated to taking it to a machine shop to be drilled out or you have the patience to hacksaw the seatpost from the inside out. Once the tube is out of round any vice or pipe wrench will just crush it further and you'll be left with nothing to twist on. I always put a rod the same size as the inside diameter of the seatpost down in there to prevent crushing or ripping. Would have to cut the rounded end of the top of the post off for that too, just the tip! Lol


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## Bike from the Dead

WillWork4Parts said:


> I think that's why the guys are suggesting to plug the top of the seatpost...turn the bike upside down and you only need to fill the seat tube with a funnel from the crank hanger.
> Whatever you do, don't crush that seatpost until you're ready to be dedicated to taking it to a machine shop to be drilled out or you have the patience to hacksaw the seatpost from the inside out. Once the tube is out of round any vice or pipe wrench will just crush it further and you'll be left with nothing to twist on. I always put a rod the same size as the inside diameter of the seatpost down in there to prevent crushing or ripping. Would have to cut the rounded end of the top of the post off for that too, just the tip! Lol



Yeah, I understand what they're saying now. In the comment you responded to though, I was referring to soaking the bottom bracket to free up the bearing cups. I think I need to tackle the bearing cups first, then try to remove the seat post. 

I'll definitely want to soak the seat post in some penetrating fluid, but this was roughly how I planned to remove the seat post, thanks to a tip from @RustySprockets on RRB. R.S. can explain it better than me, but this is the general idea:

1. Remove seat from seat post.
2. Get a piece of all-thread long enough to travel all the way through the seat post into the bottom bracket, so I can mount the washer and nut to the end of that all-thread. The nut and washer need to be just small enough to fit inside the seat tube, but big enough to butt up against the bottom of the seat post.
3. Get a piece of tubing, one *wider than the seat post* I'm pulling out, but _not wider than the seat tube._ If I understand correctly, the spare tubing needs to be about the same diameter as the seat tube, so it can sit on top of the seat tube.
4. Put a washer and nut that's big enough to not fit inside the spare tube on top of the spare tube, and tighten that nut to pull the seat post out of the seat tube.




If this idea doesn't work, I'll try some of the others that were shared with me. I won't try this without first letting the seat post soak for a while in whatever penetrating fluid I choose to use though.


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## RustySprockets

Hey stranger!


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## GTs58

Bike from the Dead said:


> Yeah, I understand what they're saying now. In the comment you responded to though, I was referring to soaking the bottom bracket to free up the bearing cups. I think I need to tackle the bearing cups first, then try to remove the seat post.
> 
> I'll definitely want to soak the seat post in some penetrating fluid, but this was roughly how I planned to remove the seat post, thanks to a tip from @RustySprockets on RRB. R.S. can explain it better than me, but this is the general idea:
> 
> 1. Remove seat from seat post.
> 2. Get a piece of all-thread long enough to travel all the way through the seat post into the bottom bracket, so I can mount the washer and nut to the end of that all-thread. The nut and washer need to be just small enough to fit inside the seat tube, but big enough to butt up against the bottom of the seat post.
> 3. Get a piece of tubing, one *wider than the seat post* I'm pulling out, but _not wider than the seat tube._ If I understand correctly, the spare tubing needs to be about the same diameter as the seat tube, so it can sit on top of the seat tube.
> 4. Put a washer and nut that's big enough to not fit inside the spare tube on top of the spare tube, and tighten that nut to pull the seat post out of the seat tube.
> View attachment 1573246
> If this idea doesn't work, I'll try some of the others that were shared with me. I won't try this without first letting the seat post soak for a while in whatever penetrating fluid I choose to use though.




I don't remember "ever" seeing a hole large enough in a Schwinn to even get a washer thru the BB seat mast joint. I doubt this method is even in the cards.


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## WillWork4Parts

GTs58 said:


> I don't remember "ever" seeing a hole large enough in a Schwinn to get even get a washer thru the BB seat mast joint. I doubt this method is even in the cards.



Yeah, at the very least there's a lot of weld slag down there at the seat tube joint. A stack of thick washers that have been ground to the right width to fit sideways in there and turned after the weld might do it...? I'm hopeful for a method I've not tried. It's gonna be difficult to pull off, but I like the theory.


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## RustySprockets

It's definitely a challenge.  I've been trying to brainstorm a method of grasp the post through the top, but an oval washer is the best I could come up with.  That would probably require cutting away the narrow part of the post.  I'm open to suggestions.


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## Bike from the Dead

GTs58 said:


> I don't remember "ever" seeing a hole large enough in a Schwinn to even get a washer thru the BB seat mast joint. I doubt this method is even in the cards.





WillWork4Parts said:


> Yeah, at the very least there's a lot of weld slag down there at the seat tube joint. A stack of thick washers that have been ground to the right width to fit sideways in there and turned after the weld might do it...? I'm hopeful for a method I've not tried. It's gonna be difficult to pull off, but I like the theory.



I was worried about that. I can look and see if that's the case on my frame, but I wouldn't be surprised if it is an issue. 


RustySprockets said:


> It's definitely a challenge.  I've been trying to brainstorm a method of grasp the post through the top, but an oval washer is the best I could come up with.  That would probably require cutting away the narrow part of the post.  I'm open to suggestions.



I'm open to suggestions as well. I might have to use one of the other methods that folks here and on RRB suggested. Still, soaking the seat post/tube in penetrating fluid for a week or two couldn't hurt, at least once the weather starts to warm up here. I don't know what temperature these fluids freeze at, but some of the lows for next week will be in the teens, which sounds too risky for now.


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## GTs58

Why mess with a penetrant. That condition of that bike is past that stage.  Does kroil or PB Blaster attack and dissolve or remove the rust? Seriously, Babah says soak it with acid and be done with it. Once the item is soak with some Kroil or other crap the acid will not be very effective.


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## rustystone2112

10% molasses and water and let soak , it could take a week or a month but I guarantee it will come out. Here is a rack and a couple lights i soaked for about 3 - 4 weeks and as you can see every spec of rust is gone . The pictures of the rack legs and mount that look brighter is from a wash in phosphoric acid after removing all the rust with the molasses and water ( you don’t have to do this step if you don’t want to it just brightens up the metal ).   The pictures of the rack where it looks a little darker is from a clear coat spray to keep it from rusting again . 
First you need to wash the frame to remove all grease and oil , this is a water based rust removal and it won’t penetrate through grease and oil


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## Rivnut

I pulled a really stuck seat on a Schwinn post one time by drilling the hole in the end a little bigger, tapping it for a bolt, running the bolt down, then getting a hold on the bolt with a BA slide hammer. It took a few attempts but once the rust was broken loose, it came out fairly easy. You cannot be timid.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

here are a few things a person needs when taking parts off a stuck bike. first a big giant vice bolted to the floor. second would be a metal bar or thick wall tubing that fits in the gooseneck, along with other assorted bars to twist what will twist, once you get that stem twisting you are half way there to remove it from the fork.  cutting the stem does not make it easier to get out. 3rd is PB Blaster. some times you need to apply the PB blaster every day for a week. 

I recently bought a girls frame and parts for the fork and dogleg crank. never saw a bike so rusted stuck, yet I was able to get everything salvageable off. the bearings and cups looked a lot like yours.


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## WillWork4Parts

This is the Monark seatpost I was talking about...was beat and chewed on before I bought it. I had tried Kroil soaking already and managed to get it to run a steady flow from seat tube cutout to crank hanger. Previous to that picture I had drilled the top tapered over part out, put a 1/2" rod in and put a pipe wrench on it, that way it wouldn't crush. The pipe wrench bit alright! Turned and there was no slippage, only a loud "tink" before I busted my knuckle. The tapered tip sheared straight off! Monark posts are 7/8" dia but thinner wall tubing and more brittle than a Schwinn mind you. This was the point where I decided to call in the saws. 





























Started with a hack saw from the inside, 2 cuts, one across from eachother. Decided that was taking too long...so I ordered some 12" HSS blades for the sawzall. I was very paranoid about cutting into the wall of the seat tube, so I'd cut a little and try to stay as parallel to the seat tube as I could, pausing every little bit to run a spoke down the groove and make sure I hadn't made it through the post. Anything thinner than your saw blade and longer than your seatpost will work, you just run it down the groove to make sure you can feel it drop off over the end of the post and then touch the seat tube. If you don't feel that step, you've started cutting the seat tube. I completed one cut to where it was as deep as I was comfortable with and tried pliers on the little bit of the tube I had left sticking up. You could see the cut closing up and it would twist a bit, but it was only 3 or so inches down the tube that the split was flexing. It still wouldn't twist out without damaging what little I had left to work with. So I cut the second groove deeper. This time the split tube just wanted to fold over itself when I tried to twist with pliers. I made a tool from a solid 5/8" bar with a slot cut in the end and a flat piece of steel driven in the rod slot...to simulate a shaft and keyway that could then be driven into the 2 grooves I had cut in the seatpost. This tool was to eliminate any flexing or crushing of the seatpost. I ground 2 flats on the other end of the rod so I'd have something to turn it with, like a wrench. Keep in mind I had to make the tool match the grooves I cut in the post, since they weren't exactly opposite from eachother. The flat piece of steel I drove into the rod had to be just wide enough to fit the diameter of the seat tube and just as thin as the sawzall blade(which happened to be 1/16" thick). As I drove the rod/keyway setup into the post, you could hear the paper thin part that was left split. I twisted the post out with pipe wrench on the seatpost and pliers on the flat of the rod after that...almost as easy as a normal seatpost. What a relief! Turns out this post wasn't even rusty, but the last photo might show the bulge and bend that was holding it in place so tight. This is what you have to go through and why you don't just run that old bent seatpost on home!!! Sorry, end rant. But that's one sure-fire way to remove a seatpost if you're looking to save finish and not use heat.


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## J-wagon

Yup. Busting rust loose is the key. Then just a matter of grease including elbow. At least it is rust and not galvanized aluminum to steel. I had a galvined alum post smushed all the way down and the extreme measure was hook up to my truck and pull out. That did not even work.


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## razinhellcustomz

Bike from the Dead said:


> I bought this rusty Schwinn back in January for $20, and while it was not the slightly-less-rusty Schwinn straight bar I had driven an hour away from home to buy, I could tell from the remaining paint on this frame that this bike was special. While I'm no expert, it must've been a Black Phantom at one point in its life; now, only the frame, the pedal blocks and a little paint is all that's left to tell the tale. It It was completely frozen solid from rust when I bought it, but I figured it was worth a gamble at $20.
> View attachment 1572770
> View attachment 1572771
> 
> A couple weeks ago, I started chipping away at disassembling this bike. First I mixed and applied a solution @Oldbikeguy1960 recommended of 1 part acetone and 3 parts used automatic transmission fluid to all the parts I wanted to break loose. It seemed to help on a couple parts after soaking for a few days, but I found that using a propane torch worked better on other parts. First, I took the rear wheel off, then I tried removing the bottom bracket assembly. I had never seen a pedal rusted this badly before, but I was able to get it off the crank at least.
> View attachment 1572772
> 
> Getting the crank off the frame, on the other hand, proved to be more challenging. I found that hitting the crank arms with a hammer seemed to free everything up, but instead, I found that I was merely threading the crank through the bearing nut, which no amount of hitting with a hammer and screwdriver would break free.
> View attachment 1572773
> View attachment 1572774
> 
> Here's what that first round of progress looked like.
> View attachment 1572775
> 
> While I was able to free up a few parts thanks to that home-brewed solution and a torch, I would have to sacrifice a few parts if I wanted to get this bike torn down to the bare frame. I had no problem cutting the handlebar stem to remove the fork, but I would've preferred sparing the crank arm if I could. Still, I could replace it later, so I cut off one arm near the threads so I could remove it from the frame.
> View attachment 1572776
> View attachment 1572777
> View attachment 1572778
> 
> If there's a way for me to save this bearing cup, I'd like to use it again, but it appears the bearing is stuck to it. No telling whether it's salvageable at this time. But that's not even the craziest part...
> View attachment 1572779
> View attachment 1572780
> 
> I have never encountered rust this bad before. The bottom bracket bearings are _fused _to the bearing cups! And I wouldn't be surprised if the bearing cups are fairly stuck to the frame as well.
> View attachment 1572781
> View attachment 1572782
> 
> It might be possible to get the headset bearing cups out, but they're pretty stuck as well. Also, one more hint that this might've been a Black Phantom is the bottom bearing cup seems to be designed for a locking springer fork. I've not seen a bearing cup like this before, so I'd like to salvage it if I can.
> View attachment 1572783
> View attachment 1572784
> 
> I was able to cut off the seat clamp bolt, but the seat post is pretty stuck in there, even after soaking the solution around it for over a week.
> View attachment 1572785
> 
> Here's where I stand and what I need help with: As rough as it looks, this frame does appear salvageable. There are no major dents, the rear triangle is straight, there are no rust holes, and I even loosened up the kickstand. I really want to try and build this bike back up, either with equally-rusty stock Black Phantom parts, or as a custom rat bike. Either way, I want to preserve what's left of the original paint, as it's the whole reason I even bought this bike. The problem is that I don't know how I'll remove the last few remaining parts without damaging the frame or the paint. Last time I tried to remove a really-stuck seat post, it did not end well, mostly because I took it to someone who didn't know what they were doing. I also don't know how I'll remove the rusty bearing cups, as hitting them with a hammer and screwdriver doesn't seem to be enough. And my ATF/acetone solution seems to be capable of only so much. If anyone here can help me figure out how to save this frame, I'd really appreciate it!



Hey Austin, I know of your dilemma all to well. If you can get a brass drift you could knock out those bearing cups from the inside out... Once your done with that you could soak them in apple cider vinegar for a few days and the rust ill eat away from the cups should clean up... Good luck... Razin..


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## WillWork4Parts

Also, I guess no one has said this yet...if your ball bearings are seized in the cups, there will be pits in the bearing surfaces. Aka the bearings are Beyond Economic Repair. 
The crank bearings in this looked like walnuts! Lol I had to cut the cranks off of this one because someone welded the Left pedal to the crank. But believe it or not, the seatpost and stem came right out!


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## razinhellcustomz

49autocycledeluxe said:


> here are a few things a person needs when taking parts off a stuck bike. first a big giant vice bolted to the floor. second would be a metal bar or thick wall tubing that fits in the gooseneck, along with other assorted bars to twist what will twist, once you get that stem twisting you are half way there to remove it from the fork.  cutting the stem does not make it easier to get out. 3rd is PB Blaster. some times you need to apply the PB blaster every day for a week.
> 
> I recently bought a girls frame and parts for the fork and dogleg crank. never saw a bike so rusted stuck, yet I was able to get everything salvageable off. the bearings and cups looked a lot like yours.



When me and my brother used to work on stuck hit and miss engines he always used oil of wintergreen.. That stuff works better than any penetrating oil iv'e EVER seen or used... This stuff is AMAZING.. You can get this at any drug store.. Good luck...


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## Tuxguy66

Bike from the Dead said:


> Yeah, I understand what they're saying now. In the comment you responded to though, I was referring to soaking the bottom bracket to free up the bearing cups. I think I need to tackle the bearing cups first, then try to remove the seat post.
> 
> I'll definitely want to soak the seat post in some penetrating fluid, but this was roughly how I planned to remove the seat post, thanks to a tip from @RustySprockets on RRB. R.S. can explain it better than me, but this is the general idea:
> 
> 1. Remove seat from seat post.
> 2. Get a piece of all-thread long enough to travel all the way through the seat post into the bottom bracket, so I can mount the washer and nut to the end of that all-thread. The nut and washer need to be just small enough to fit inside the seat tube, but big enough to butt up against the bottom of the seat post.
> 3. Get a piece of tubing, one *wider than the seat post* I'm pulling out, but _not wider than the seat tube._ If I understand correctly, the spare tubing needs to be about the same diameter as the seat tube, so it can sit on top of the seat tube.
> 4. Put a washer and nut that's big enough to not fit inside the spare tube on top of the spare tube, and tighten that nut to pull the seat post out of the seat tube.
> View attachment 1573246
> If this idea doesn't work, I'll try some of the others that were shared with me. I won't try this without first letting the seat post soak for a while in whatever penetrating fluid I choose to use though.



This sounds and looks like a great, simple and effective solution. Let us know how it goes.


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## Bike from the Dead

rustystone2112 said:


> 10% molasses and water and let soak , it could take a week or a month but I guarantee it will come out. Here is a rack and a couple lights i soaked for about 3 - 4 weeks and as you can see every spec of rust is gone . The pictures of the rack legs and mount that look brighter is from a wash in phosphoric acid after removing all the rust with the molasses and water ( you don’t have to do this step if you don’t want to it just brightens up the metal ).   The pictures of the rack where it looks a little darker is from a clear coat spray to keep it from rusting again .
> First you need to wash the frame to remove all grease and oil , this is a water based rust removal and it won’t penetrate through grease and oil
> 
> View attachment 1573601
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> View attachment 1573622



That's quite impressive! I might just have to try that!


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## Bike from the Dead

Rivnut said:


> I pulled a really stuck seat on a Schwinn post one time by drilling the hole in the end a little bigger, tapping it for a bolt, running the bolt down, then getting a hold on the bolt with a BA slide hammer. It took a few attempts but once the rust was broken loose, it came out fairly easy. You cannot be timid.



I was wondering if that would be the best solution for removing the seat post before I even saw your message. I think I'll try this, once I've let the seat post soak in some penetrating fluid for a while.


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## Bike from the Dead

Tuxguy66 said:


> This sounds and looks like a great, simple and effective solution. Let us know how it goes.



It did sound like a good idea, but the way this Schwinn is put together, I can't try it. The weld joints prevent me from fitting the right-sized washer and nut inside. It might work for other bikes, though.


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## Bike from the Dead

WillWork4Parts said:


> View attachment 1574726
> This is the Monark seatpost I was talking about...was beat and chewed on before I bought it. I had tried Kroil soaking already and managed to get it to run a steady flow from seat tube cutout to crank hanger. Previous to that picture I had drilled the top tapered over part out, put a 1/2" rod in and put a pipe wrench on it, that way it wouldn't crush. The pipe wrench bit alright! Turned and there was no slippage, only a loud "tink" before I busted my knuckle. The tapered tip sheared straight off! Monark posts are 7/8" dia but thinner wall tubing and more brittle than a Schwinn mind you. This was the point where I decided to call in the saws.
> View attachment 1574739
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> View attachment 1574738
> 
> Started with a hack saw from the inside, 2 cuts, one across from eachother. Decided that was taking too long...so I ordered some 12" HSS blades for the sawzall. I was very paranoid about cutting into the wall of the seat tube, so I'd cut a little and try to stay as parallel to the seat tube as I could, pausing every little bit to run a spoke down the groove and make sure I hadn't made it through the post. Anything thinner than your saw blade and longer than your seatpost will work, you just run it down the groove to make sure you can feel it drop off over the end of the post and then touch the seat tube. If you don't feel that step, you've started cutting the seat tube. I completed one cut to where it was as deep as I was comfortable with and tried pliers on the little bit of the tube I had left sticking up. You could see the cut closing up and it would twist a bit, but it was only 3 or so inches down the tube that the split was flexing. It still wouldn't twist out without damaging what little I had left to work with. So I cut the second groove deeper. This time the split tube just wanted to fold over itself when I tried to twist with pliers. I made a tool from a solid 5/8" bar with a slot cut in the end and a flat piece of steel driven in the rod slot...to simulate a shaft and keyway that could then be driven into the 2 grooves I had cut in the seatpost. This tool was to eliminate any flexing or crushing of the seatpost. I ground 2 flats on the other end of the rod so I'd have something to turn it with, like a wrench. Keep in mind I had to make the tool match the grooves I cut in the post, since they weren't exactly opposite from eachother. The flat piece of steel I drove into the rod had to be just wide enough to fit the diameter of the seat tube and just as thin as the sawzall blade(which happened to be 1/16" thick). As I drove the rod/keyway setup into the post, you could hear the paper thin part that was left split. I twisted the post out with pipe wrench on the seatpost and pliers on the flat of the rod after that...almost as easy as a normal seatpost. What a relief! Turns out this post wasn't even rusty, but the last photo might show the bulge and bend that was holding it in place so tight. This is what you have to go through and why you don't just run that old bent seatpost on home!!! Sorry, end rant. But that's one sure-fire way to remove a seatpost if you're looking to save finish and not use heat.



Dang, I really hope it doesn't come to this on my bike. I'd be so afraid of messing up. Still, glad to see it worked for you! Thanks for sharing!


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## Bike from the Dead

J-wagon said:


> Yup. Busting rust loose is the key. Then just a matter of grease including elbow. At least it is rust and not galvanized aluminum to steel. I had a galvined alum post smushed all the way down and the extreme measure was hook up to my truck and pull out. That did not even work.



I had a rusty Schwinn straight bar with a stuck seat post that wouldn't come out even when it was strapped down to my dad's car hauler trailer with the winch yanking on the seat post. Then again, if I had just allowed the seat post to soak in some PB Blaster or something for a while, it probably would've worked. I'll definitely take my time getting this one out. Thanks.


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## Bike from the Dead

razinhellcustomz said:


> Hey Austin, I know of your dilemma all to well. If you can get a brass drift you could knock out those bearing cups from the inside out... Once your done with that you could soak them in apple cider vinegar for a few days and the rust ill eat away from the cups should clean up... Good luck... Razin..



I actually got those bearing cups out just earlier this week! They're completely useless though. I'm going to need to get some new cups if I want to ride this thing. Thanks!


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## Bike from the Dead

WillWork4Parts said:


> Also, I guess no one has said this yet...if your ball bearings are seized in the cups, there will be pits in the bearing surfaces. Aka the bearings are Beyond Economic Repair.
> The crank bearings in this looked like walnuts! Lol I had to cut the cranks off of this one because someone welded the Left pedal to the crank. But believe it or not, the seatpost and stem came right out!View attachment 1575922
> 
> View attachment 1575923
> 
> View attachment 1575925



Yeah, I learned that not too long ago on one of my last projects. The bearing cups on this bike are definitely Damaged Beyond Specification, so they'll have to be replaced if I want to ride this bike.

That's a nice one you've got there! Looks like yours is just as rusty if not even more so than mine! I know I definitely want to build this one if the damage I've found isn't too extensive, but what I don't know is _how_ I want to build it. Part of me would like to build it up as a "barn-find survivor," kind of like yours, but on the other hand, I'd really love to make it into a rat rod bike, with some equally rusty, though not exactly "correct" parts.


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## Bike from the Dead

razinhellcustomz said:


> When me and my brother used to work on stuck hit and miss engines he always used oil of wintergreen.. That stuff works better than any penetrating oil iv'e EVER seen or used... This stuff is AMAZING.. You can get this at any drug store.. Good luck...



Wintergreen, huh? I'll have to look into it. Thanks for the tip!


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## Bike from the Dead

A little over a week ago, I tried doing a light "power wash" with the hose attachment to try and clean off some of the moss growing on the frame. I don't think I did much that way, but it didn't seem to hurt the bike at least.














Looks like someone spilt either some paint or tar all over this bike at some point. I think I can get some of it to come off, but I don't know if I'll be able to get rid of it all.




The bearing cups are all junk. I highly doubt I'll be able to use any of these at all. They're all in probably the worst condition I've ever seen!













I did find something while hosing this bike down that I had missed before. There's a small hole and dent on the inside of the left chain stay. I don't know if it's so bad that I can't ride it without welding it up, but I at least hope it's not so bad that I can't ride this bike without at least welding it shut.







The dropouts are nice and straight, but the left fender brace mount... not so much. It's not such a big deal that it ruins the whole bike for me, but I do what to fix it.


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## WillWork4Parts

Yours had moss too?! Nice! I'm letting mine live as long as it can...lol
These frames are tanks, the hole looks like it's from tire wear, as long as it's not bubbly from rust, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Have fun with it, ride it and enjoy it...until you can't!

2 crescent wrenches will help you get that fender brace tab back in shape. I recommend these smooth jaw pliers to anyone that wants to straighten drop outs, they have great clamping force and don't mar (in the right hands....but some people can break a brick with a Q-tip!). The smaller set even works well for reworking sheetmetal, think bent fender and chainguard tips. They come in handy a little bit of everywhere really.


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## Bike from the Dead

Got all the bearings and bearing cups out earlier this week! I took the frame over to a friend, who busted out each cup like it was nothing. Turns out all I needed was to place the frame on a concrete floor, with a wood block for bracing, and knock out each cup with a punch and hammer! 













I mocked up a wheel and tire to see if everything lined up right, and thankfully, the wheel lines up dead even between both the chain stays and seat stays! I didn't notice it until later, but the right seat stay looks to be dented inward just a little bit. I don't know if that means this bike is unrideable as-is, but it doesn't seem to affect the alignment of the rear wheel at least.




A better look at what was (and wasn't) removed from the frame. 







Not only did we get the bearings/cups removed, we also removed the seat, seat clamp, head badge and head badge bolts.







Here's where we didn't make much progress. My friend tried a number of different ways to remove the seat post, including hammering it down into the seat tube and welding this piece of angle iron on top and twisting it in the vise or hammering it from underneath. Wouldn't budge, and in fact, was ready to break. So, it looks like I'll need to soak the tube in some rust penetrant for a while, but after that, I'd like to try tapping the inside of the seat post, threading a bolt deep inside of it, and twisting it in a vice or pulling it with an axle puller. That's not going to happen for a while though, but at least I've got a few ideas on how to remove it.







With the bearing cups out, I can now get an idea of what the red paint originally looked like!




Thankfully, the bottom bracket's not in bad shape.







So, that's where I'm at now. If I can wait patiently for long enough, I should be able to get that seat post out and start building this frame back up!


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## Bike from the Dead

WillWork4Parts said:


> Yours had moss too?! Nice! I'm letting mine live as long as it can...lol
> These frames are tanks, the hole looks like it's from tire wear, as long as it's not bubbly from rust, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Have fun with it, ride it and enjoy it...until you can't!
> 
> 2 crescent wrenches will help you get that fender brace tab back in shape. I recommend these smooth jaw pliers to anyone that wants to straighten drop outs, they have great clamping force and don't mar (in the right hands....but some people can break a brick with a Q-tip!). The smaller set even works well for reworking sheetmetal, think bent fender and chainguard tips. They come in handy a little bit of everywhere really.
> View attachment 1581641



Awesome! I'm hoping to breathe new life into this one as well. It's kind of funny, I never thought I'd own an original Black Phantom (or at least the frame,) but now I'm on the other side of the fence. Suddenly, I'm part of the "Black Phantom Club!" If that small hole isn't anything to worry about, then I'mm just leave it as is.

I failed to mention it earlier, but I did get the fender brace tab mostly straightened. My friend whacked it with a hammer a few times on his work table, and while it's not perfect, it's better than it was before. Thanks for the advice though! I'll have to try it next time!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I had some bearings like that. it was a rusty girls frame I bought for the crank. I was able to unscrew everything and cut nothing, the seat post is still in the frame, I may get that out later.


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## Bike from the Dead

49autocycledeluxe said:


> I had some bearings like that. it was a rusty girls frame I bought for the crank. I was able to unscrew everything and cut nothing, the seat post is still in the frame, I may get that out later.
> 
> View attachment 1581784
> 
> 
> View attachment 1581785
> 
> View attachment 1581783



Dang! I'm amazed you didn't have to cut anything!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

Bike from the Dead said:


> Dang! I'm amazed you didn't have to cut anything!




I parted out a 1951, 1953 and 1960 Chevrolet and sold most of it on ebay so I have a PHD in rusty stuff.

I have a big vice and a big prybar. I use PB Blaster.


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## Rivnut

For the price of shipping, I “inherited” a couple of old coffee cans filled with cups, bearings, and assorted races. Each set was wired together.  I can make you a really good deal on a headset and bottom bracket set. I’d need some measurements to make sure that I get the right ones for you. Contact me via PM if you think that I can help you out.

Ed


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## razinhellcustomz

Bike from the Dead said:


> Wintergreen, huh? I'll have to look into it. Thanks for the tip!



Yes Oil of Wintergrenn.. Good stuff..


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## razinhellcustomz

WillWork4Parts said:


> Yours had moss too?! Nice! I'm letting mine live as long as it can...lol
> These frames are tanks, the hole looks like it's from tire wear, as long as it's not bubbly from rust, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Have fun with it, ride it and enjoy it...until you can't!
> 
> 2 crescent wrenches will help you get that fender brace tab back in shape. I recommend these smooth jaw pliers to anyone that wants to straighten drop outs, they have great clamping force and don't mar (in the right hands....but some people can break a brick with a Q-tip!). The smaller set even works well for reworking sheetmetal, think bent fender and chainguard tips. They come in handy a little bit of everywhere really.
> View attachment 1581641



Hey Will, that's a good durable looking set of pliers.. Did you by chance purchase these at a Harbor Freight? Thanks.. Razin..


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## WillWork4Parts

razinhellcustomz said:


> Hey Will, that's a good durable looking set of pliers.. Did you by chance purchase these at a Harbor Freight? Thanks.. Razin..



Definitely not something you'll find at Harbor Freight. Great German steel! I picked up this set probably 7 years ago, about $45 cheaper. I haven't seen them in my Lowe's yet, but they carry the brand.
 KNIPEX Tools 00 20 06 US2, Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXNT2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_2TKCV77QSTR398Y6VBG1
They work great for starting chain pins...where standard chain tools can leave you fumbling, since the jaws slide up and down almost perfectly parallel. The clamping pressure these have will make quick work of something like a bent fender tab too...


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## razinhellcustomz

WillWork4Parts said:


> Definitely not something you'll find at Harbor Freight. Great German steel! I picked up this set probably 7 years ago, about $45 cheaper. I haven't seen them in my Lowe's yet, but they carry the brand.
> KNIPEX Tools 00 20 06 US2, Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXNT2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_2TKCV77QSTR398Y6VBG1
> They work great for starting chain pins...where standard chain tools can leave you fumbling, since the jaws slide up and down almost perfectly parallel. The clamping pressure these have will make quick work of something like a bent fender tab too...



Cool, i'll have to check the store by me.. I do have a good pair of Snap on Gripper pliers that i use for fenders and such now.. Thanks.. Razin..


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## agmasterjac

I am working on a schwinn spitfire equally as bad as yours was.  Kroil and heat.  If the part is not to be salvaged,  many time an air hammer with a 1" round hammer bit will rattle the rust loose but again it will mar the surface you hammer on.


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## The Spokemaster

"plop, plop, fizz, fizz, ....used this stuff on my whizzer that wuz"


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## Flying Merkel

Bike from the Dead said:


> I bought this rusty Schwinn back in January for $20, and while it was not the slightly-less-rusty Schwinn straight bar I had driven an hour away from home to buy, I could tell from the remaining paint on this frame that this bike was special. While I'm no expert, it must've been a Black Phantom at one point in its life; now, only the frame, the pedal blocks and a little paint is all that's left to tell the tale. It It was completely frozen solid from rust when I bought it, but I figured it was worth a gamble at $20.
> View attachment 1572770
> View attachment 1572771
> 
> A couple weeks ago, I started chipping away at disassembling this bike. First I mixed and applied a solution @Oldbikeguy1960 recommended of 1 part acetone and 3 parts used automatic transmission fluid to all the parts I wanted to break loose. It seemed to help on a couple parts after soaking for a few days, but I found that using a propane torch worked better on other parts. First, I took the rear wheel off, then I tried removing the bottom bracket assembly. I had never seen a pedal rusted this badly before, but I was able to get it off the crank at least.
> View attachment 1572772
> 
> Getting the crank off the frame, on the other hand, proved to be more challenging. I found that hitting the crank arms with a hammer seemed to free everything up, but instead, I found that I was merely threading the crank through the bearing nut, which no amount of hitting with a hammer and screwdriver would break free.
> View attachment 1572773
> View attachment 1572774
> 
> Here's what that first round of progress looked like.
> View attachment 1572775
> 
> While I was able to free up a few parts thanks to that home-brewed solution and a torch, I would have to sacrifice a few parts if I wanted to get this bike torn down to the bare frame. I had no problem cutting the handlebar stem to remove the fork, but I would've preferred sparing the crank arm if I could. Still, I could replace it later, so I cut off one arm near the threads so I could remove it from the frame.
> View attachment 1572776
> View attachment 1572777
> View attachment 1572778
> 
> If there's a way for me to save this bearing cup, I'd like to use it again, but it appears the bearing is stuck to it. No telling whether it's salvageable at this time. But that's not even the craziest part...
> View attachment 1572779
> View attachment 1572780
> 
> I have never encountered rust this bad before. The bottom bracket bearings are _fused _to the bearing cups! And I wouldn't be surprised if the bearing cups are fairly stuck to the frame as well.
> View attachment 1572781
> View attachment 1572782
> 
> It might be possible to get the headset bearing cups out, but they're pretty stuck as well. Also, one more hint that this might've been a Black Phantom is the bottom bearing cup seems to be designed for a locking springer fork. I've not seen a bearing cup like this before, so I'd like to salvage it if I can.
> View attachment 1572783
> View attachment 1572784
> 
> I was able to cut off the seat clamp bolt, but the seat post is pretty stuck in there, even after soaking the solution around it for over a week.
> View attachment 1572785
> 
> Here's where I stand and what I need help with: As rough as it looks, this frame does appear salvageable. There are no major dents, the rear triangle is straight, there are no rust holes, and I even loosened up the kickstand. I really want to try and build this bike back up, either with equally-rusty stock Black Phantom parts, or as a custom rat bike. Either way, I want to preserve what's left of the original paint, as it's the whole reason I even bought this bike. The problem is that I don't know how I'll remove the last few remaining parts without damaging the frame or the paint. Last time I tried to remove a really-stuck seat post, it did not end well, mostly because I took it to someone who didn't know what they were doing. I also don't know how I'll remove the rusty bearing cups, as hitting them with a hammer and screwdriver doesn't seem to be enough. And my ATF/acetone solution seems to be capable of only so much. If anyone here can help me figure out how to save this frame, I'd really appreciate it!



The best penetrating oil I've ever seen is this stuff called Justice Brothers JB-80. About $20 a can but it really works. Another great penetrant available through aircraft supply stores is called Mouse Milk. Comes in a plastic squeeze bottle. We use it to dissolve coking deposits in aircraft turbochargers and wastegates.
You might also need more heat than a propane torch will deliver so very careful use of an oxy-acetylene torch with a rosebud tip might be in order. A cutting torch can also work but just use it to heat the metal. Don't hit the cutting lever! Oxy-acetylene can very easily heat the metal glowing red hot quickly and then warp or melt it so be very careful.


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## Two Wheeler

Bike from the Dead said:


> Thanks. I use PB Blaster usually, but this time I tried using a 1/4 acetone and 3/4 *used* ATF solution @Oldbikeguy1960 suggested. Is there another penetrating fluid you'd recommend for this? I'm open to ideas.
> 
> As for the bearings and bearing cups, I have no problem replacing them; it's removing them that's the problem. They're stuck in there pretty good. I think I could loosen up the headset cups with PB Blaster or the other solution if I let them soak long enough, but is there a specific way to get that one out? I normally just use a hammer and a flathead screwdriver to bust the usual kind out, but this one's deep inside the frame.
> 
> As long as the frame isn't part of the "rusty, brittle stuff," I'm okay with that!



Use Kroil penetrating oil.


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## RichH

Gibbs penetrating oil


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## Bryan Akens

I  have  found  that  getting  old  bearing  cups  out  works  best  by  using  an  old  seatpost  or  a  piece  of  pipe instead  of  a  screwdriver.....Yours  are  the  worst  I  have  ever  seen......Nice  find  on  that  frame!!!....lots  of  possibilities  there!!!


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## 62typhoon

J-wagon said:


> Oh man, rusted seized seatpost especially that one smushed way down is the worst. Looks like lots of post surface area inside the tube. Perhaps make vertical cut in post running from between seattube slot up to top of post, like with dremel cutting wheel or similar. Squeeze post betwn vice or similar. Resulting flex should free up some area. And can drip some solution into the gap too.
> 
> Or if you have long cutting blade, carefully cut vertical line inside post (careful to not cut seattube) and then squeeze to break free as much post surface contact area away. Then solution soak and twist as usual.
> 
> I've done this with seized interfaces with success. But not smushed down like yours.
> 
> Good luck!



yes, used a hacksaw blade to cut strips and then a chisel to hammer it apart...lots of work but it gets er done.


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