# Shop floor choices



## SJ_BIKER (Jul 7, 2014)

so im about to move ina few days and will have to build a shop and since i will start from scratch....any pointers on what type of floor i ought to use.... wood, concrete, tile, laminet.... and pros and cons? smooth vs rough concrete....


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## jpromo (Jul 7, 2014)

My cement slab does just fine for me. You can smack things on it as you please and not worry about grease and oils. Ideally I'd epoxy coat it to keep the durability but make clean up a bit easier.


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## GTs58 (Jul 7, 2014)

Contrary to popular belief, concrete and cement are not the same thing; cement is actually just a component of concrete. Concrete is made up of three basic components: water, aggregate (rock, sand, or gravel) and Portland cement.* Cement, usually in powder form, acts as a binding agent when mixed with water and aggregates.*


I'm not sure what all you are going to use your shop for, but a concrete slab is the only way to go. If you plan on installing a car hoist or have anything with a significant concentrated weight, the concrete slab thickness should be more than the standard 3.5". A nice smooth hard trowel finish and then a good oil base concrete sealer. Epoxy is nice for a parking garage but for a workshop I think a good sealer would do the job much better and cheaper. Our warehouse floor is epoxied and it's blistering and peeling off like GM's paint back in the 70's and 80's.


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## Iverider (Jul 7, 2014)

You can actually get lime only concrete without cement in it. Cement is just the crap that builders started using at the turn of the century to get things to cure faster. It also removes the self healing ability that lime mortar used to possess back in the day. Not that that matters but while we're being particular . I'd personally go with a smooth finished concrete. At least that way if you were to scoot a painted part over the surface it wouldn't take it down to bare metal immediately like a broom finish would. Also easier to scrub grease and other crap off and it's more durable than other surfaces.


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## GTs58 (Jul 8, 2014)

Krautwaggen said:


> You can actually get lime only concrete without cement in it. Cement is just the crap that builders started using at the turn of the century to get things to cure faster. It also removes the self healing ability that lime mortar used to possess back in the day. Not that that matters but while we're being particular . I'd personally go with a smooth finished concrete. At least that way if you were to scoot a painted part over the surface it wouldn't take it down to bare metal immediately like a broom finish would. Also easier to scrub grease and other crap off and it's more durable than other surfaces.




We've been using cement way before the turn of the century. Y2K was only 14 years ago.   Lime was and is still used today for mortar and plaster, never for slabs, footings, walls, bridges, dams etc.. One difference in the mortar and plaster used today is the mixture contains cement.


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## Iverider (Jul 8, 2014)

The other turn of the century


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## Tmusic (Aug 12, 2014)

Mine is hardwood


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## vincev (Aug 12, 2014)

My floor is my garage floor. I put a cheap tarp from harbor Freight under my work stand.I do this so when little parts fall they do not roll or bounce into places you cannot see. I dropped the tiny headbadge screws and they fell on the tarp.If not for the tarp they would never have been found.


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## Andrew Gorman (Aug 12, 2014)

After working in all kinds of abandoned industrial buildings, I'd want wood block floor:
http://kaswell.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw9...KAdhLfUTOqwPBEH4jh4n2DpMpXtEic1_cphoCWvLw_wcB
It's what factories that made stuff used, not just fussy hipster cocktail bars.


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## SJ_BIKER (Aug 12, 2014)

*here is what i have to work with*

As you can see...it was built on concrete....but it is cracked all the way in the middle inside....its a water trap as the weight made it sink slightly over time so when it will rain the water will seep through the wood base....what to do


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## GTs58 (Aug 12, 2014)

Might be to late now to do anything. The slab that structure is sitting on should be a minimum of 4 inches above grade or any other adjoining slabs. I bet all the wall plates are rotted out and that leaks like the Titanic. The soil will have to be removed 4 inches below the floor level, UBC used to be 6", all around the building along with diverting any water away from the building. Not a heck of a lot you can do with the outside slab being at the same level as the floor. Caulk all you want but water will still seep in eventually, especially at the door.


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## Andrew Gorman (Aug 12, 2014)

Floor the inside of the shed with pallets- look around and get the good oak ones and get them shimmed up level. then put your flooring over those- 2X stock, 3/4 inch ply, whatever you can come up with. In CA climate you don't have to worry about a cold floor, just draining any water so it doesn't stand.  Maybe try to level the whole shed- it seems to have some rot on the downhill side.  Any anvils or benches should have feet that go through to the concrete or below.  What you have is better than what I have- a city model T garage I have to share with a car.


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## Iverider (Aug 13, 2014)

There are concrete resurfacing products that you could overcoat your current slab with. Problem is, if it's not done settling, it'll crack again. It'll level it out for awhile though.

How are the sill plates around the perimeter of the shed? If they're rotted out you could cut them out and pour a perimeter wall or use concrete block to elevate the rest of the wood structure. Lots of options. If you have a contractor friend you might have them over and buy them a case of beer. They'll give you some ideas of what you can do and maybe an estimated cost. Make sure it's a beer that they like. Get a Microbrew for a Busch Light guy and it'll be the same situation as giving Busch light to a Micro Brew guy.


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## GTs58 (Aug 13, 2014)

Krautwaggen said:


> There are concrete resurfacing products that you could overcoat your current slab with. Problem is, if it's not done settling, it'll crack again. It'll level it out for awhile though.
> 
> How are the sill plates around the perimeter of the shed? If they're rotted out you could cut them out and pour a perimeter wall or use concrete block to elevate the rest of the wood structure. Lots of options. If you have a contractor friend you might have them over and buy them a case of beer. They'll give you some ideas of what you can do and maybe an estimated cost. Make sure it's a beer that they like. Get a Microbrew for a Busch Light guy and it'll be the same situation as giving Busch light to a Micro Brew guy.





There are lots of options. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how much work you want to put into the project. I've been in construction for 40+ years and have seen and worked on numerous projects that should have been bull dozed. So, two questions. One, do you own the property? Two, how much would you or could you spend? The first thing that needs to be done is some landscaping to keep that slab high and dry. Then at the very least, do any repairs where the structure has been compromised. After that you can give Martha Stewart a call.


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## OldRider (Aug 13, 2014)

Andrew Gorman said:


> After working in all kinds of abandoned industrial buildings, I'd want wood block floor:
> http://kaswell.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw9...KAdhLfUTOqwPBEH4jh4n2DpMpXtEic1_cphoCWvLw_wcB
> It's what factories that made stuff used, not just fussy hipster cocktail bars.




I'm with Andrew on this, I've spent my lifetime working in these old turn of the previous century buildings with the wood block floors, they are over 100 years old and still as durable as the day the day they were made.


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## SJ_BIKER (Aug 13, 2014)

*yesss..............*



GTs58 said:


> There are lots of options. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how much work you want to put into the project. I've been in construction for 40+ years and have seen and worked on numerous projects that should have been bull dozed. So, two questions. One, do you own the property? Two, how much would you or could you spend? The first thing that needs to be done is some landscaping to keep that slab high and dry. Then at the very least, do any repairs where the structure has been compromised. After that you can give Martha Stewart a call.




i own it.... not looking to spend much for the time being.....im thinking of filling the crack.... chopping the front end and putting a porch in the front to keep water out...or at least slowing it down.....illl draw something up


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## SJ_BIKER (Aug 13, 2014)

*...............*



OldRider said:


> I'm with Andrew on this, I've spent my lifetime working in these old turn of the previous century buildings with the wood block floors, they are over 100 years old and still as durable as the day the day they were made.



wood sounds tempting


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## GTs58 (Aug 13, 2014)

SJ_BIKER said:


> wood sounds tempting






These guys would love a wood floor on that slab. I've seen a piece of 1 1/8" plywood disappear in 13 months. That's no joke.


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## SJ_BIKER (Aug 14, 2014)

*errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*



GTs58 said:


> These guys would love a wood floor on that slab. I've seen a piece of 1 1/8" plywood disappear in 13 months. That's no joke.




i have thought about that too..... water would get trapped under that set i was seriously considering......


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## bike (Aug 14, 2014)

*My barn has moisture and I have to run a dehumidifier in the warmer months*

I am told a MOISTURE BARRIER UNDER THE SLAB is the joint.

ALso I like the look of burned slab but that is very slippery when wet- coatings could seal it but their life is limited and can you really refinish a full barn floor?


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Aug 14, 2014)

You could cut out the portion with the crack and make a drain there instead. ..lay down sand then some gravel finished off with a grate...


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Aug 14, 2014)

*I have interlocking coin pvc tiles from Lowes - they work great ...*

For years I was trying to figure out a floor for my garage / workspace & this is what I found - Originally I was going to epoxy paint my garage floor to make it simple & clean to work in - well I was told that epoxy floors had issues with hot tire pickup & peeling up from many friends & professionals - plus it's a pain in the a_X to prep & refinish with chances of peel up from water coming through the slab - oils - bad prep - etc. -- so the search went on & this was my solution ....

- Interlocking PVC tiles with a coin pattern on them 

- Sold through Lowes hardware stores here in SoCal & I assume online 

- You can choose different colors - intermix them - make patterns - whatever - I went with a solid darker shade of gray 

- Size wise they are around 17.5" squares with edges that interlock to one another - they are probably 1/8" to 3/16" thick - you don't have to glue them down & if one gets damaged you just peel it up & pop a new one in - no special tools required either - straight edge & razor blade to trim up the outside edge & they offer finished edge trim for the front edge or all the way around your project area if you want a small area rug type work spot - It insulates the floor nicely too 

- The best thing about this system is that if you ever move - you can take it with you or change it up whenever you want since it is not permanently mounted to the floor ... 

- Cost - About $6.00 a foot 

Good luck with your project - Frank


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## bike (Aug 14, 2014)

*^^^ $9200.00*

ouch- maybe for some areas


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## scrubbinrims (Aug 14, 2014)

The more you spend on the floor, the less you have for bikes.
It appears to already have a floor right...just spray some perimeter bug defense and get to wrenching.
Although you have to work quickly, renting a concrete mixer and DIY with rebar mesh isn't a bad option for small spaces like this and you could go in sections...I have done it and I'm not in construction.
Chris


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