# 62 Corvette Assembly



## Chris (Sep 25, 2019)

I’m looking to reassemble my 62 Corvette 5 speed now that painting is done. I don’t want to use the old hardware (nuts, screws, washers) that was on the bike, and as it turns out I didn’t keep good track of what went where...this was my first bike disassembly and restoration.

So, can anyone help with what the standard hardware and quantity for 60s corvettes for the main bike? This would be the front and rear axles, fender braces, chain guards, derailleur, etc. 

I was looking to buy refurbished or NOS hardware online, haven’t seen anyone selling “sets” of Schwinn hardware, just some here and there.

Thanks


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## Oilit (Sep 28, 2019)

Why would you replace the original hardware? Was it all rusty or stripped? I've never seen a list of bolts and screws for any bike, but maybe a parts catalog will help. Schwinn published and distributed parts catalogs, but they weren't as common as the sales catalogs. Otherwise, you'll need a thread gauge to check the pitch and  a set of calipers to measure the major diameter (outside diameter) of any screw you need to replace.


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## Chris (Sep 29, 2019)

Thanks for the tips, I think a thread gage and calipers would be a good idea. I found a service manual that shows the standard number and type of fastners, so should be just a matter of measuring my old parts. The original washers, nuts, screws were very rusty. I also wanted to confirm that all the correct parts were there and the right type (e.g., serrated washers or flat washers) versus just trusting what I removed from the bike was correct.


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## Allrounderco (Sep 29, 2019)

Have you tried EvapoRust? I have a tray of it on my workbench, and use it weekly. Results will surprise you.


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## rennfaron (Sep 29, 2019)

Chris said:


> Thanks for the tips, I think a thread gage and calipers would be a good idea. I found a service manual that shows the standard number and type of fastners, so should be just a matter of measuring my old parts. The original washers, nuts, screws were very rusty. I also wanted to confirm that all the correct parts were there and the right type (e.g., serrated washers or flat washers) versus just trusting what I removed from the bike was correct.



Oxalic acid on all your hardware. It works miracles. I also use a brass wire brush, which doesn't harm the metal at all and knocks off rust. You can also use wadded up aluminum foil and white vinegar for tough to remove rust. Then I do a final polishing with Quick-glo cleaner / polish on all the metal, even the heads of bolts and sides of nuts (many many many many q-tips).

It will be tough to buy each small part on ebay as the prices can be ridiculous on smalls. A nice set of fender bolts and nuts can set you back $15. Most people selling are just pulling parts from bikes and I think it is rare to find someone sitting on a cache of NOS hardware. If that is the case, find a bad condition parts bike around you and pull parts from it, you will save money and then some and have more parts to use on other projects. Plus you can see where all the parts go.

Best thing to do might be to take a pic of all your parts and put them on a piece of cardboard or paper with #s below them. We can chime in and tell you what goes where if needed or send pics. Even after taking quite a few bikes apart, I still get caught up on the order of some parts, like does the washer go before or after this part. Now I have quite a few similar examples that I can look back and for help, but those first couple, it was a guess and a hunt online for close up pics.


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## rennfaron (Sep 29, 2019)

Oilit said:


> Why would you replace the original hardware? Was it all rusty or stripped? I've never seen a list of bolts and screws for any bike, but maybe a parts catalog will help. Schwinn published and distributed parts catalogs, but they weren't as common as the sales catalogs. Otherwise, you'll need a thread gauge to check the pitch and  a set of calipers to measure the major diameter (outside diameter) of any screw you need to replace.



I have a parts and accessories catalog from '62, and they do a pretty good job of exploding the parts and labeling exact numbers. The problem is no one that I have seen sells parts like that with numbers on each thing. You can't just say, oh give me 3x 4309s, 1x 4321, etc. because very few sellers if any have it labeled like that. And for parts that are apart of a larger assembly, like the caliper in the catalog photo, you just buy the larger thing (the whole caliper or set of them) and pull the small parts off it. Generally, you combine the best parts to create the one thing you need. Like if you have a few sets of brake calipers and the arms are good on one, and the pivot bolt is better on another, some of the bolts and nuts are better on yet another one, you combine the best of all together to create that one great whatever-it-is. Again, parts bikes save you a lot of hassle of going on ebay to buy each little thing.

I can also shoot you some pics from the catalog if it will help you figure out what goes where.


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## Chris (Sep 30, 2019)

Ok, cleaned parts with carb cleaner, did pretty good job.

Here are pictures of the front and rear wheels with the current nuts and washers. I laid them out on paper and numbered them to make clear the items and their order on the wheel.

Let me know if I’m missing parts to hold on the wheel and what the order should be.

From looking at a 69 service manual, front wheel should be:

Right side: axle nut, thin washer, fender brace, heavy washer, fork, cone lock washer

Left side: axle nut, thin washer, heavy washer

For rear wheel with freewheel hub:

Right side: looks like axle nut then serrated washer over the derailleur

Left side: axle nut then serrated washer


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## Chris (Sep 30, 2019)

Here is the headset. For my 62 Corvette 5 speed, it’s supposed to be the deluxe headset. There is a picture from the 1962 parts book showing the items in the deluxe headset, labeled A through H. I labeled my parts A through H to show what I have.

I think my part labeled “C” is not right, different shape than what is shown in the 1962 parts diagram.


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## rennfaron (Sep 30, 2019)

For the front axle. No. 2 on the right side has two ears for the wrench lands of the right cone, and a third ear that rides in the dropout. There are two no. 2s on the right side because I had to shuffle.


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## rennfaron (Sep 30, 2019)

From what I can see the rear hub looks good as you have it. You want the teeth on the washer facing inward to bite into the frame.


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## rennfaron (Sep 30, 2019)

Whoops I had that image above slightly wrong. See change above.


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## GTs58 (Sep 30, 2019)

Your top head set bearing race (C) does look different. And the illustration of C is even different than what's on my 62's, I can't say your race is wrong but thinking it might have been replaced at some point. I'll see if I can find the loose head set off my 62 Corvette project in the parts box.


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## GTs58 (Sep 30, 2019)

Okay, here is the head set off my 62 Corvette project. This is the same head set on all my 1962's and my 61's and my early 60's light weights. Note that between the top nut and the upper bearing race there is no keyed washer since the bike has a front rack and Schwinn did not use a washer with the stem bracket for the carrier. I don't think it would hurt to install the keyed washer between the rack bracket and top nut though. 

Sorry about the bad pics, left my Camera in the truck for a few weeks and the batteries were about gone, and the heat probably killed the camera.


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## rennfaron (Sep 30, 2019)

Let Chris show you how to clean up your hardware


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## GTs58 (Sep 30, 2019)

rennfaron said:


> Let Chris show you how to clean up your hardware




Sounds like a very good idea! That head set has been soaking in a sealed plastic tub filled with hot air for a year or better and it still looks like crap.


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## Chris (Oct 1, 2019)

Just bought a headset from bicycleheaven (pictured) that had the part you show from your 62s, will use it in place of what I have now.


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## Rivnut (Oct 1, 2019)




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## Chris (Oct 1, 2019)

Referencing the diagram in reply/post #9, am I missing a cone washer on the left side? The arrows point to a cone on each side.


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## rennfaron (Oct 1, 2019)

Nope. It is only on one side.


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## vincev (Oct 1, 2019)

Whenever I take things with many pieces apart I use my cell phone and take pictures.Saves a lot of grief at times.


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## Chris (Aug 29, 2020)

Finally assembling the 1962 Corvette 5 speed. Here are pictures of the pieces, I'll post progress.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Aug 29, 2020)

looking good.


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## GTs58 (Aug 29, 2020)

Boy am I excited to see this one again!    Nice!
Did you respoke the wheels too? If you need the little short pieces of Shifter cable casing let me know, I have some NOS.


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## Chris (Aug 29, 2020)

Yes, I had them done with stainless steel spokes. 

I think I need the short shifter cable pieces you mentioned, here are the cables I have now. Think the ones for the break cables are correct. I have no experience with derailleurs, so no idea yet how to hook it all together.


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## GTs58 (Aug 30, 2020)

Chris, I just noticed that cable guide on your frame in that new picture. Those 10 speed cable guides are crap and are prone to breaking off. It should be a U and not an L. I have multiple geared bikes where this has happened and I see now why you said the cable will rub the paint. The U has a large hole for the housing to go thru and the casing butts the U leg with the small hole were the cable enters/exits. Is that cable guide the only one missing one of the legs?

Edit...... Just took a picture to show the guides.


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## Chris (Aug 30, 2020)

Here are my three frame-mounted cable guides down from the shifter.


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## GTs58 (Aug 30, 2020)

So two guides have the busted off leg with the small cable hole. Bummer! That can be taken care of by fixing it with a couple of things. Using an old derailleur cable or brake adjusting barrel screw or a split casing brake cable ferule. Slight modification to the each may be needed but not that big of a deal.


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## Chris (Aug 30, 2020)

I'll have to see what I can work up, may have to look for the parts you mention on eBay. So my other two cable guides are both supposed to have the small hole brackets? This was the same for all 5 speeds, early and late versions?


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## GTs58 (Aug 30, 2020)

The actual 1962 style flash welded cable guides were all u shaped, one leg with a large hole for cable casing and the other leg with a small hole just for the cable itself and the casing butted against it. Those ferrules for the split casing lightweight would be the cleanest option and I'm sure someone here has boxes full of those. They come with the new Schwinn branded cable. On the brake calipers and on the rear derailleurs there is cable adjusting screw and that would also be a clean looking fix if you cut down the threaded end a little. Here's a shot of the brake cable ferrule on a Continental.
The 1961 Corvette 5 cable guides is just a closed end tube with a small hole in end for the cable.


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## Chris (Sep 12, 2020)

Made some progress, refurbished the seat (same parts, just cleaned up), installed head badge and placed almost all decals. 

Ran into a problem with the Schwinn top tube decal, the decal stars are 8 1/2 inches apart, from center to center of the stars. Was told this measurement was supposed to be about 6 5/8 inches. So it looks like my top tube decal is too long. Total decal length from end of each star is 9 3/4 inches. Would appreciate a lead on who sells the correct size.


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## GTs58 (Sep 13, 2020)

Excellent job Chris. The guard is perfect and so is that paint! Were you sweating bullets getting the guard decals to line up?  

I wonder if those longer top tube decals were copied from a later middleweight. Even my 61 Fair Lady decal is about 6 3/4 long from center to center of the stars, and it's arched twice as much. I don't have any later middleweights or even a Sting Ray to check out those dimensions. Maybe give Lisa from the old Memory Lane shop a jingle.  @island schwinn  just picked up a set from her so maybe he can check the length.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Here is a picture of the decal. I sent an email to Lisa, so we’ll see what she may have. I bought my decals from BicycleBones about 3 years ago when I started the restoration. He says for 26-inch men’s bike, top tube decals are about 9 1/2 inches long.

And yes, lining up the decals on the chain guard was tough, had to do both at the same time to get it right!


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## Tom Hand (Sep 13, 2020)

.  
Chris, 
Do you need another #2 in your front wheel axle photo? I have one you are welcome too.
Tom Hand


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Tom, thanks, I’ll let you know. 

Looking to install the kickstand, crank, pedels, fork/handlebars today and then maybe the wheels. Using engine assembly lube for the lube for crank and kickstand, used to working on old cars, not old bikes.


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## Tom Hand (Sep 13, 2020)

I know what you mean .  I have the K stand tool if you are close to Missouri and need to borrow it.  I have a 69 Barracuda that is about like working on an old Schwinn but more expensive.  Here are the punks posing in front of it last year.
I'll send you the washer part if you PM me 

your address.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Anyone have a tip on installing the crank cups/crank bearing cups? The Schwinn manual says to tap them on with a soft head mallet. I’m using a regular rubber mallet and they do not want to go in, placed board underneath to have hard surface, still no luck. Thinking I need a harder head rubber mallet.


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## GTs58 (Sep 13, 2020)

Chris said:


> Anyone have a tip on installing the crank cups/crank bearing cups? The Schwinn manual says to tap them on with a soft head mallet. I’m using a regular rubber mallet and they do not want to go in, placed board underneath to have hard surface, still no luck. Thinking I need a harder head rubber mallet.




Having the frame on a bench protected and supported so the paint won't get damaged, I just set the cup in the hole, place a short 2x4 on top of the cup keeping everything even and then I smack the 2x4 with a 20 oz hammer.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> Having the frame on a bench protected and supported so the paint won't get damaged, I just set the cup in the hole, place a short 2x4 on top of the cup keeping everything even and then I smack the 2x4 with a 20 oz hammer.



That worked!


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

I was able to get the correct size top tube Schwinn decal from Lisa, so should have it in a few days.


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## GTs58 (Sep 13, 2020)

Chris said:


> I was able to get the correct size top tube Schwinn decal from Lisa, so should have it in a few days.




Good deal! I've been looking at bike pictures with a good top tube decal shot but it's still somewhat hard to tell the length. I have a 1963 Corvette that was purchased as a parts donor but it's in my storage condo. Looks like the 63 models had the decal change to the longer version from what I can see in some pictures. Does this 63 Tiger look like it has the longer decal to you? Looks huge compared to my 61-62 Corvettes.






Here's another 63 Tiger.. I'm pretty sure now that the 63 models had a new top tube decal.that was longer.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Lisa said the Corvette 5 speed top tube decal was shorter to account for the frame mounted shifter. Your top picture looks like the length of the long decal I put on and then removed. It sits back more towards the seat post when you apply it behind the frame shifter.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Got the crank installed, pedals and fork. Hit a snag with the handlebar stem, it won’t go in the head locknut. I think I have the wrong locknut, beveled version instead of the straight version for the thicker forged handlebar stems. This is referenced in the service manual (picture below).


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## GTs58 (Sep 13, 2020)

Wait, hold on a second!!! STOP the engines!!

Your chain ring is on backwards. Dish out and part number in.

I wonder why my 61 Fair Lady has the 6-5/8" decal. It doesn't have a top tube shifter?

As for the lock nut. Schwinn changed the stem diameter to a smaller size when they increased the steer tube thickness for the 1966 models. The stems don't interchange and the headset is different to allow for the smaller dia stem.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Thanks, will fix that (ugh). Am I right about the head locknut, need straight top version and that’s why my handlebar stem does not fit into the head locknut?


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## GTs58 (Sep 13, 2020)

Chris said:


> Thanks, will fix that (ugh). Am I right about the head locknut, need straight top version and that’s why my handlebar stem does not fit into the head locknut?




Yep. Is your stem original? What changed for 1966 ...... The Steer tube gauge increased making the stem hole smaller. The stems were resized and the locknut top diameter was changed to fit the new stem.


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## Chris (Sep 13, 2020)

Yes, it’s an original for 62, better chrome than my original. I tried my original handlebar stem as well and it did not fit. The original head locknut was rusty, so I bought a new (and apparently incorrect) one.


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## Chris (Sep 18, 2020)

Attaching wheels and fenders. Having issues getting the fenders centered on the tire for the front wheel. The front tire rests up against one of the rear fender braces. How do you align the fender? The front wheel sits back in the fork channels, completely seated and centered in the fork. 

Different issue with the rear wheel, the rear fender rides right up against the tire at the back. About 1 1/2 inch gap between fender and tire where the forward fender screw connects the fender to the frame, but at the rear the fender is right on top of the tire.


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## Rivnut (Sep 18, 2020)

Your rear axle will not set all the way back in the drop out.  Just place the axle in the drop out to get an even spacing front and back.





In this picture, you'll see that the rear axle is almost at the front of the drop out.


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## bloo (Sep 18, 2020)

I think it is supposed to run way forward. 

When reassembling my 61 speedster with a new chain, it had to be WAY in the front or almost all the way in the back, anything else would have required a half link, and I doubt Schwinn did that.

There were marks on the dropout where the axle had been way forward like that at some point in the bike's life.

Of the two possible positions, I chose the way forward one because it allows for chain stretch. I suspect the factory did the same.

I know none of that matters with a derailleur like you have, but it seems likely since the frame, fender, and fender support design is the same (or mostly so), Schwinn would have put the wheel in about the same spot. As you noted, the fender fits worse the farther back you go.

This pic doesn't show it that well, but the axle is at the extreme front of the slot. Maybe you can zoom in.


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## GTs58 (Sep 18, 2020)

You must have the derailleur installed on the drop out. Hopefully you have the mounting hardware for the derailleur. Then the axle rests up against the hanger and you align the wheel from there.


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## Rivnut (Sep 18, 2020)

Once you get the entire assembly in place, the fender to wheel alignment will correct itself.


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## Chris (Sep 18, 2020)

Rivnut said:


> Your rear axle will not set all the way back in the drop out.  Just place the axle in the drop out to get an even spacing front and back.
> 
> View attachment 1269233
> 
> In this picture, you'll see that the rear axle is almost at the front of the drop out.



That’s a nice looking corvette. Is that the optional for 62 deluxe four reflector rear rack? Nice!


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## Chris (Sep 18, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> You must have the derailleur installed on the drop out. Hopefully you have the mounting hardware for the derailleur. Then the axle rests up against the hanger and you align the wheel from there.



Thanks, didn’t catch that order for mounting the rear wheel. I have the derailleur mounting hardware, will attach that first and go from there.


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## GTs58 (Sep 18, 2020)

Chris said:


> That’s a nice looking corvette. Is that the optional for 62 deluxe four reflector rear rack? Nice!




That one was restored by @Smoopy's  for the owner quite a few years ago.


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## Chris (Sep 19, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> That one was restored by @Smoopy's  for the owner quite a few years ago.



I found a set of fenders without dents, the unique ones for this bike, stainless steel with chrome braces. My originals have lots of dents and there is no local place that rolls fenders, so I caved and got good original replacements. So since I’m waiting on them to arrive, I’m going to pull off my original fenders, flip the bike over and put on the decals for the top tube that just arrived, the handlebar and seat, then read up on install of the derailleur. 

Anything I should know about putting the chain on? I’ve never done this, so plan to put the chain on after wheels, fenders, and derailleur are attached.


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## Rivnut (Sep 19, 2020)

There are a couple of good video tutorials for putting the chain on the derailleur on YouTube.  The Brit explains it very simply.


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## Chris (Sep 19, 2020)

Rivnut said:


> There are a couple of good video tutorials for putting the chain on the derailleur on YouTube.  The Brit explains it very simply.



Thanks, I will check it out.


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## Chris (Sep 19, 2020)

Glad I didn’t pull my fenders yet, turns out the fender purchase I mentioned was a scam, looks to have been going on for a while on the site, I didn’t know as I don’t read all areas of the site, especially the “Forum Issues” section...but there it is, the long thread of members getting scammed by a guy who establishes a new account, trolls the Wanted adds, then sends members a PM referring a second person as someone who has what they need. I got taken, feel stupid, won’t happen twice. That new member now shows as “Suspended”, but shows he is actively trolling the parts section of the site. Oh well, guess I’ll learn to live with my dented fenders and file dispute with PayPal.


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## GTs58 (Sep 19, 2020)

Chris said:


> Glad I didn’t pull my fenders yet, turns out the fender purchase I mentioned was a scam, looks to have been going on for a while on the site, I didn’t know as I don’t read all areas of the site, especially the “Forum Issues” section...but there it is, the long thread of members getting scammed by a guy who establishes a new account, trolls the Wanted adds, then sends members a PM referring a second person as someone who has what they need. I got taken, feel stupid, won’t happen twice. That new member now shows as “Suspended”, but shows he is actively trolling the parts section of the site. Oh well, guess I’ll learn to live with my dented fenders and file dispute with PayPal.




Well that just sucks raw eggs! There has to be someone in that area that rolls fenders. JFYI, the later stainless fenders, 63 and later, also had chrome braces but the fenders themselves are not the same as the 62 pieces. 
Maybe @Classic Cool Rides , @Freqman1  or Smoopy's mentioned above knows someone around that area that rolls fenders.


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## Freqman1 (Sep 19, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> Well that just sucks raw eggs! There has to be someone in that area that rolls fenders. JFYI, the later stainless fenders, 63 and later, also had chrome braces but the fenders themselves are not the same as the 62 pieces.
> Maybe @Classic Cool Rides , @Freqman1  or Smoopy's mentioned above knows someone around that area that rolls fenders.



I have a fender roller but will be out of the country until next year. Maybe @jd56 knows someone close to you. V/r Shawn


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## Rivnut (Sep 19, 2020)

Where do you live?  There's a guy in the Kansas City area who does fender rolling.  He's good and he's reasonable. Cost is less if there are no fender braces to contend with. I've drilled brace rivets out and used rivet screws to reattach them.




He rolled the fenders on this bike. These braces have the rivet screws in them.


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## GTs58 (Sep 19, 2020)

Smoopys is right next door in Tennessee, about 650 miles.  



			About Us – Smoopy's Vintage Bicycles


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## Chris (Sep 19, 2020)

Freqman1 said:


> I have a fender roller but will be out of the country until next year. Maybe @jd56 knows someone close to you. V/r Shawn



I’m just outside St Louis.


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## Freqman1 (Sep 19, 2020)

Chris said:


> I’m just outside St Louis.



Your info says Fairfax, VA?


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## Chris (Sep 19, 2020)

Freqman1 said:


> Your info says Fairfax, VA?



Sorry, have not updated it, military moves me around


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## Freqman1 (Sep 19, 2020)

Chris said:


> Sorry, have not updated it, military moves me around



Thanks for your service. I’m retired Army and on my way to Afghanistan as a DOD civilian. V/r Shawn


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

Where does the bolt on the derailleur fork end bracket install, in the drop out? There is no dedicated hole for installation.

How much play should be in the pivot bolt? Right now it moves freely, allows the derailleur to move back and forth freely without resistance.


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## Rivnut (Sep 20, 2020)

There should be a hex nut and washer to go with the bolt. The oblong piece is placed in the dropout then the derailleur is clamped to the dropout with the nut and washer. The oblong piece is for centering the derailleur.


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

The oblong flat tabs on the "nut" are placed on the top and bottom inside face of the drop out and the hanger is just clamped on. There is also a different shaped nut that's round with one flat side D shaped that faces the axle slot. There is no washer, just the hex bolt and the clamping nut. The nut is placed all the way to the back on the inside of the drop out slot. Hope that's understandable, I don't have any pictures of the installed hanger.

Got a picture of the back side? Does your pivot stop look like metal or a plastic?


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

Here's a parts diagram of the newer Allvit, but the same parts basically. Part # 1918 on the early allvits were a plastic base with metal pin and they had an issue with breaking. There is a repair kit with a metal base if yours is broken or cracked.
The derailleur should pivot freely with very little slop. What I do is snug up the nut to where the pivoting somewhat binds and then I back it off ever so slightly to where it pivots freely.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> Here's a parts diagram of the newer Allvit, but the same parts basically. Part # 1918 on the early allvits were a plastic base with metal pin and they had an issue with breaking. There is a repair kit with a metal base if yours is broken or cracked.
> The derailleur should pivot freely with very little slop. What I do is snug up the nut to where the pivoting somewhat binds and then I back it off ever so slightly to where it pivots freely.
> 
> View attachment 1270692
> ...



I have the plastic pivot stop, and it’s cracked and not stopping, not hitting the pin, so freely swinging too wide. I have two other early 4 spring prong derailleurs, so I’ll have to change out parts, didn’t catch this before install. I have a couple of the later 3 spring prong derailleurs that have the metal pivot stop too.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

How far over should the bike lean with kickstand down? I just installed the kickstand, and it looks to lean too far. I bought a used kickstand to replace my original as it was very rusted. The replacement looked the same, same length. Will have to check what length should be, think angle is set by the kickstand housing.


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

Is that new stand marked with a part number or have any markings? The originals do not have any markings. Schwinn made a change on the stands at some point and they are not really interchangeable, so I'm told, and you have to use a newer cam if using the newer sprag. I believe the old style has one notch on the outside bottom of the cam and the new style has two notches. You might just have your cam rotated if using all the older parts. The notch should be at the bottom flat.


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## bloo (Sep 20, 2020)

It is a little hard to tell how much lean that is. I just went out and looked at my 61 Speedster. It seems to lean a little less than yours, and if anything mine should lean more because it has oversize tires (s-7 2.0's).

I have heard that Schwinn changed the angle of the kickstand later on to keep people from clobbering the kickstand when getting on the bike.

My kickstand is most likely original from 61. If you stand directly in front of the spot where the kickstand exits the tube, looking straight at the bike, the kickstand appears to make a perfectly vertical line to the ground, except for the bent tip.

I did have to replace the pin as the kickstand was all wonky before. There is no circular play in the mechanism now in either the up or down position.

Let me know if you need me to measure anything.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

This is the kickstand assembly I have, same parts as shown. The kickstand has no markings.


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

Sometime during the mid 60's Schwinn changed the stands so they wouldn't lean as much. The sprags were then marked with a number and they have to be mated to the new cams. On the old style there were no markings on the spag and the cam has one notch on the outside edge face and that should be on the downside flat of the tube triangle. I looks like your cam may be rotated, it appears the stand is rotated to far forward.

This has three notches and the cam is installed in the stand tube with those at the bottom.


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

Here's a direct face on shot of my 62 showing the angle of the stand.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

Here is the backside of the cam, shows a notch on the side and a mark on the bottom flat.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

Chris said:


> Here is the backside of the cam, shows a notch on the side and a mark on the bottom flat.
> 
> View attachment 1270827
> 
> View attachment 1270828



That notch on the left may be some kind of stop on the kickstand housing, not sure.


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## bloo (Sep 20, 2020)

That's identical to my 61. Does the kickstand locate solidly when it is up or down?


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

Not sure if in the right position when up, here’s the kickstand in up position.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

bloo said:


> That's identical to my 61. Does the kickstand locate solidly when it is up or down?



It has a stop when going down and coming up.


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

Here’s a couple more pictures of the kickstand when up. I looked at my 58 Jaguar, and that kickstand stows directly under the rear bar and is more parallel to the ground. This one sticks out more when up, not inline and under the rear bar.


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## Rivnut (Sep 20, 2020)

I had one that didn't have a solid "up" position. A new pin solved that problem.


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

Same cam as mine, I even checked my 61 Corvette and the same cam and same position. So.............. either the sprag is different or your cam is toast. Could that be an early lightweight sprag, those are chrome and unmarked. That sure looks like it has the wrong bend on it.

Edit.... Guess you'll have to pull it out and check it with the original piece. Up & down positions are way off and angle is not correct. I went thru this same BS years ago when piecing together my first Corvette 5 frame. I bought three stands from forum members and eBay and not one worked. I even gave the sellers the angles and the lengths too! One was a lightweight stand. Sold all three and had to start all over.

On second thought, the placement of the pin hole in the spag just may cause all the "offness".


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## Chris (Sep 20, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> Same cam as mine, I even checked my 61 Corvette and the same cam and same position. So.............. either the sprag is different or your cam is toast. Could that be an early lightweight sprag, those are chrome and unmarked. That sure looks like it has the wrong bend on it.
> 
> Edit.... Guess you'll have to pull it out and check it with the original piece. Up & down positions are way off and angle is not correct. I went thru this same BS years ago when piecing together my first Corvette 5 frame. I bought three stands from forum members and eBay and not one worked. I even gave the sellers the angles and the lengths too! One was a lightweight stand. Sold all three and had to start all over.
> 
> On second thought, the placement of the pin hole in the spag just may cause all the "offness".



I’ll remove the kickstand tomorrow and look at it. My problem is this is the first bike I’ve ever assembled, so I’m really limited with relevant experience. I’m guessing the cam is in the correct orientation, and I didn’t replace it, so it must be something with the kickstand or sprag.


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## GTs58 (Sep 20, 2020)

Chris,
Your doing a great job on that Corvette! I could tell you some stories when I did this same thing when I purchased my first project. A 1961 Corvette 5 speed and the only thing left and usable was the frame, seat post and seat post clamp. I purchased it from the original owner and it was used delivering newspapers in a rural Tennessee area and it was literally used up and then partially torn down and then rusted up in a shed for 4 decades. I got a few of the other items for the bike and that was all I had to go on when trying to find the correct replacement parts. It took 5 years of searching for the correct freewheel that was not still attached to a bike. It took over a year searching for the chain ring that was loose! I joined my first bike forum, the old Pacific Schwinn forum in hopes of finding the parts I needed but nobody would sell the parts so it was pretty frustration. At that time nobody could tell me what was correct and what wasn't so I ended up with enough parts to build a bike but wasn't correct for the Corvette 5. That project is what got me involved in this hobby and it was also the reason I started the Registry.

You're probably going to install a new chain next so here's some info. It takes a 1/2 pitch 3/32" chain 56" long or 112 links. Have the derailleur in the correct position with jockey wheel cage  pre-tensioned when lacing the chain threw it. I've seen a few where someone laced the chain threw the derailleur with the jockey wheel cage rotated clockwise and they couldn't get the tension spring to take up the slack in the chain.

Just have fun! And from what I've seen so far, your efforts are going to pay off with a very impressive first time restoration.


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## Chris (Sep 21, 2020)

The 62 parts catalog shows a different bushing style for the sprag assembly, smooth bushing with single hole for the retaining pin, I’ve not see this before. It does not provide marking details for the corresponding cam.


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## Chris (Sep 21, 2020)

Ok, pulled the kickstand. The sprag looks fine to me, it’s about 11 1/2 inches long from the base of the sprag assembly bushing. The pin hole looks to be in the right location. I took a picture of the inside of the cam, not sure what the correct condition looks like. Not sure if the cam with three markings on the base makes a difference, attached pictures of one from outside and inside that I found.


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## Rivnut (Sep 21, 2020)

In the one picture that shows a lot of the spring, the pin looks a little worn.  Wouldn't hurt to replace it.   As long as you put the cam in as described earlier, you should be in good shape. Unless someone has swapped stands in the past.


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## Chris (Sep 21, 2020)

Rivnut said:


> In the one picture that shows a lot of the spring, the pin looks a little worn.  Wouldn't hurt to replace it.   As long as you put the cam in as described earlier, you should be in good shape. Unless someone has swapped stands in the past.



Yes, the pin is worn on one side, about 1/4 of it missing, other side is ok. This might explain the play in the sprag when it’s in the up position. Still not sure though why the support angle is so great, causing the bike to lean more than normal. I don’t have the bushing for the sprag assembly shown in the 62 parts catalog, but I would be surprised if this was the driver for the kickstand angle when down. I’m thinking it must be related to the cam somehow .


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## Rivnut (Sep 21, 2020)

I think the angle to which you're referring is all in the actual stand itself. If you have a protractor, measure the  angle of the bend in the stand and post it. That will be a reference for others to gauge yours against theirs. The pin will let the stand droop but it is no bearing on the tilt of the bike.  If nothing else, heat the bar and bend it where you want it.


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## bloo (Sep 21, 2020)

According to this thread, the 3 notches mean the cam is after 1971 when Schwinn changed the kickstand angle. The sprag is supposed to also be post 1971 if you are using that cam. If the sprag is from 1962, I'm guessing the angle fore/aft is probably wrong for a working system.









						Schwinn Kickstand Stamped 8337
					

trying to figure out what this is correct for ?




					thecabe.com
				




The wear on that pin will make things all wonky too. The pins should be down at the hardware store. I have seen them at Ace here recently in the bolt and screw drawer section. They are "3/16 x 3/4" metal dowel pins". I bought a bag of them online before I realized they were available locally. If you want, PM me your address and I'll mail you one.

Lastly, that top bend, the one Rivnut is referring to, is probably not sharp enough, unless it is just part of the post-1971 design. On my 1961 if you look straight down from above through the left seatstay and chainstay, the sprag follows the chainstay almost perfectly. It is almost completely hidden by the chainstay when viewed from that angle. You can see a tiny sliver of the sprag out at the end, and also the bent tip, but that is all. I can take a pic later if it will help.

On your pic that i have reposted below, you are not quite directly above the stays, but it sure looks like there is no way the sprag can follow the stays like my 61 does unless the bend is made sharper.


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## GTs58 (Sep 21, 2020)

Here's a straight on left side shot of one of my 61 Corvettes so you can see the angle of the stand in the down position. Don't go bending things, that's not going to solve anything. Do you still have the original stand? I thought I had a loose one in the garage for a comparison shot but can't find it. That new stand cannot be the same as the original. I keep going back to your pictures and it looks like the angle is off and the pin hole is drilled slightly different. That's what's keeping it from going all the way to the up position and letting it kick forward way to far. So Pin Hole and Bends are different. Cam didn't look worn to bad looking at it still in the tube. I'd pop that out with a drift punch and check it out though.


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## Chris (Sep 22, 2020)

I don’t have the original kickstand with me, so can’t compare against it. I bought a Schwinn original on eBay that came with the correct cam (single mark on base of cam), so when it arrives I’ll first try the new kickstand and if that doesn’t fix it, I’ll swap out the cams and try the new kickstand again.


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## Chris (Sep 25, 2020)

Got the kickstand today. Put it on with my existing cam and it was rotating in the up position too close to the tire, barely cleared the tire rim and was going into spokes. From the comparison picture, it’s clearly does not have the outward bend as the one I have now, but it’s too straight, thinking it’s a 50s sprag.
I switched out cams to check that as a factor, no change, new kickstand still swings in too close to the bike (it was same cam style, single mark at base of cam). Can’t get my original for another week to try it out.


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## Chris (Sep 25, 2020)

Got the derailleur attached to the frame. The internal arm was bent so I had to disassemble the derailleur and swap out parts so that it would align correctly to the rear gears. Here are pictures after cleaning and assembly. This is the rare 62 Huret Allvit that has the flat cages and 4-tension prongs for the spring.


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## GTs58 (Sep 25, 2020)

I need pull out one of my stands to see if there is an offset on hole for the pin. There has to be! Looking at your cam (inside the tube) you can see the position of the locking indents. The stands you have when laid flat on the table looks like the pin is straight vertical. Does you new lightweight stand stop in the same positions as the other new stand?


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## Rivnut (Sep 25, 2020)

Now that you have the derailleur mounted how does the rear wheel fit within the fender?


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## GTs58 (Sep 25, 2020)

This looks like the correct stand where the pin isn't at a 90 degree angle when the stand is on a flat surface. It also has the earlier collar.


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## Chris (Sep 25, 2020)

Rivnut said:


> Now that you have the derailleur mounted how does the rear wheel fit within the fender?



It fits well now that the derailleur is installed in the drop out. It pushed the whole wheel forward and centered it inside the rear fender.


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## Chris (Sep 25, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> I need pull out one of my stands to see if there is an offset on hole for the pin. There has to be! Looking at your cam (inside the tube) you can see the position of the locking indents. The stands you have when laid flat on the table looks like the pin is straight vertical. Does you new lightweight stand stop in the same positions as the other new stand?



The new stand goes more forward I think, didn’t measure, but that was my impression. The cam is the same, so no change there. Don’t think the new stand is a light weight, it has no markings. The difference is the gap between the stand bushing and the bend of the stand as it leads down, this is the angle of the stand relative to the ground. The one I had has a longer span after the bushing before it bends downward. The new one has absolutely no gap after the bushing, it immediately bends downward. The one you show in the attachment is in between the two, so probably the correct angle.


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## Chris (Sep 26, 2020)

Installed a fix for my broken derailleur cable guide brackets. I took two mid-60s cable stop ferrules (these are aluminum) and sanded the smaller end. Think this will work.


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## bloo (Sep 26, 2020)

Chris said:


> Think this will work.



Yes, I do but isn't it pointing the wrong way?


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## GTs58 (Sep 26, 2020)

bloo said:


> Yes, I do but isn't it pointing the wrong way?




The 1962 models had the U shaped cable guide with one leg having a large hole for the cable casing and the other leg has a small hole for the cable and it also acts as a casing stop. As long as the casing has a flat stopping surface with a hole being just big enough for the cable only, it should work. With those shifter guides that Chris shows I would probably drill out the pointed end just deep enough with the correct diameter drill to where the cable casing is somewhat held in


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## Chris (Sep 26, 2020)

bloo said:


> Yes, I do but isn't it pointing the wrong way?



I guess I could reverse the direction, I was not thinking of the cable housing, just the bare cable, but with this style cable stop, it would likely come out of the bracket facing the opposite direction. I will look at alternatives.


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## Chris (Sep 27, 2020)

I drilled out the cable stops just wide enough to “catch” the cable housing. I installed the frame mounted shifter and threaded the derailleur cable down to the rear derailleur. I then threaded the chain over the smallest gear, through the derailleur (over top jockey wheel and under lower wheel) and around the front sprocket. I didn’t close the chain yet since I wanted to ask about how much slack should be in the chain and if the derailleur is supposed to be pulled forward so easily (horizontal to ground). The chain is the chain on the bike when I bought it, 56in long (112 links).


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## GTs58 (Sep 27, 2020)

112 link chain with chain on 5th gear. The derailleur body should pivot freely. The jockey wheel cage and chain slack is what dictates where the derailleur body is resting. 





In first gear derailleur position................


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## Chris (Sep 28, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> 112 link chain with chain on 5th gear. The derailleur body should pivot freely. The jockey wheel cage and chain slack is what dictates where the derailleur body is resting.
> 
> View attachment 1274382
> 
> ...



My chain length looks similar to your picture when I place it on the largest rear gear, however when it’s on the smallest gear by the derailleur, the chain has a lot of slack, enough that you can lift and remove it off the front sprocket. I think my derailleur spring does not have enough tension in it. I think some of the chain slack in the lowest gear setting should be addressed by the derailleur, what else deals with all the “extra” chain length? My derailleur does not get in the position you show in the second picture, the lower jockey wheel (one without spring retention prongs) does not pull over and under the top jockey wheel like you show. As you move the spring tension/increase tension by moving the spring to the left up the jockey wheel, tension pulls the derailleur vertical, as you move the spring setting lower on the jockey wheel the tension is less and the derailleur goes more horizontal to the ground. My tension on the spring does not pull the derailleur completely vertical.


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## GTs58 (Sep 28, 2020)

I don't know if we should start from scratch or not, this is where I mentioned to pre-tension the jockey wheel cage. If the tension spring was unhooked when the derailleur was removed then the cage would spin around freely. When reinstalling, it has to be what I call pre-tensioned or in the correct position or the tension spring won't work properly. 

1. Remove the chain from the derailleur. 
2. Unscrew the limiting screw that's on the face of the derailleur housing so it lets the cage retract fully so that you can rotate the wheel cage without it hitting the freewheel. 
3. Unhook the tension spring from the lug. 
4. Rotate the jockey cage counter clockwise letting the lug grab the spring hook. 
5. Keep rotating until the bottom wheel is at the bottom and hold it there while you lace the chain back thru the derailleur.
6. With the chain in position you can let go of the jockey cage and it should have plenty of tension. 
7. At this point the tension spring will most like be in the top lug and I usually reposition the spring to the bottom lug being the weakest tension. I do the tension adjustment later while setting up the derailleur.  

I suck at typing instructions so I do not endorse this post.


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## Chris (Sep 30, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> I don't know if we should start from scratch or not, this is where I mentioned to pre-tension the jockey wheel cage. If the tension spring was unhooked when the derailleur was removed then the cage would spin around freely. When reinstalling, it has to be what I call pre-tensioned or in the correct position or the tension spring won't work properly.
> 
> 1. Remove the chain from the derailleur.
> 2. Unscrew the limiting screw that's on the face of the derailleur housing so it lets the cage retract fully so that you can rotate the wheel cage without it hitting the freewheel.
> ...



That fixed the derailleur tension issue, but I had to remove the derailleur from the hanger to clear the freewheel while turning the jockey change. I held the derailleur in the increaded tension position, threaded the chain through the derailleur then reattached the derailleur and released. The slack in the chain is now taken care of by the derailleur tension. Couple of concerns:
1) Is it ok that the chain rubs/touches the inside of the jockey cage? From the attached picture you may be able to see that the chain is rubbing against the top inner jockey cage and the lower inner jockey cage when exiting.
2) What is the shifter lever position when the chain is on the smallest gear, position 5 as shown, lever all the way forward? If the lever is pulled backwards to 1, the derailleur expands to move the chain under the largest gear on the inside.


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## GTs58 (Sep 30, 2020)

In this shot I can see that the bottom wheel races are real lose and ready to fall out with little balls lost. Yikes! These basically have the same set up as front wheel bearings. There are tiny balls on races and they can be adjusted like the bearing cones on your front wheel. Adjust to were the races are tight but the wheel spins free. Keep the adjusted position while attaching to the jockey cage. There is usually little or no wobble slop on these wheels and the chain should never touch the cage. And keep these oiled.   The derailleur should also be in a perfect plane with the gear cluster, not angled or twisted. Not sure where you're at here, but the jockey wheels can be removed with the derailleur on the bike but it can be a real PITA. Both jockey wheels should be checked, cleaned/lube and adjusted and centered in the cage.

The gear numbered decal is not used as an actual position placement for the lever. There is a forward stop for the shifter lever and that's were I set the lever when running the cable, and with the derailleur relaxed in 5th gear and limit screw backed out. Not sure if that's the way everyone does it but it works for me.  
Please cover up the chain stay when messing with the drive train, I'd hate to see that new paint chipped up.


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## Chris (Oct 7, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> In this shot I can see that the bottom wheel races are real lose and ready to fall out with little balls lost. Yikes! These basically have the same set up as front wheel bearings. There are tiny balls on races and they can be adjusted like the bearing cones on your front wheel. Adjust to were the races are tight but the wheel spins free. Keep the adjusted position while attaching to the jockey cage. There is usually little or no wobble slop on these wheels and the chain should never touch the cage. And keep these oiled.   The derailleur should also be in a perfect plane with the gear cluster, not angled or twisted. Not sure where you're at here, but the jockey wheels can be removed with the derailleur on the bike but it can be a real PITA. Both jockey wheels should be checked, cleaned/lube and adjusted and centered in the cage.
> 
> The gear numbered decal is not used as an actual position placement for the lever. There is a forward stop for the shifter lever and that's were I set the lever when running the cable, and with the derailleur relaxed in 5th gear and limit screw backed out. Not sure if that's the way everyone does it but it works for me.
> Please cover up the chain stay when messing with the drive train, I'd hate to see that new paint chipped up.
> ...



I changed out the lower jockey wheel and positioned the derailleur under the smallest gear with the adjustment screw. Turning the crank forward, the chain goes around and through the derailleur fine (although it’s close to the inside of the jockey cages). When the crank is turned counterclockwise, the chain comes off the front sprocket. Does this mean there is too much chain and I need to remove a link and try again?


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## GTs58 (Oct 7, 2020)

There shouldn't be any chain problems when back pedaling. From your picture it looks like the derailleur is tweaked just a little. It's twisted, not in plane with the gear cluster. The chain is real close to the inside cage on the bottom wheel in the front and then real close to the outside cage in the back. So the derailleur needs to be adjusted inward at the front, outward in the back. Doesn't look like it needs very much though. 
The Jockey wheel cage should be in the same plane an perfectly vertical with the gear cluster. To adjust the twist, get a 12" or larger adjustable wrench and tighten it up on the main housing near the bottom. Support the wrench end with the palm of your right hand and pull the wrench to the front of the bike with left hand twisting the housing inward at the front. Piece of cake!      I hope you don't have to make any in/out adjustments for vertical position!


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## Chris (Oct 9, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> There shouldn't be any chain problems when back pedaling. From your picture it looks like the derailleur is tweaked just a little. It's twisted, not in plane with the gear cluster. The chain is real close to the inside cage on the bottom wheel in the front and then real close to the outside cage in the back. So the derailleur needs to be adjusted inward at the front, outward in the back. Doesn't look like it needs very much though.
> The Jockey wheel cage should be in the same plane an perfectly vertical with the gear cluster. To adjust the twist, get a 12" or larger adjustable wrench and tighten it up on the main housing near the bottom. Support the wrench end with the palm of your right hand and pull the wrench to the front of the bike with left hand twisting the housing inward at the front. Piece of cake!      I hope you don't have to make any in/out adjustments for vertical position!



Fixed the derailleur, chain no longer touching inner sections of the jockey cage. The chain was still coming off however, so I hauled the bike into the local bike shop, and they fixed it. Old chain had stiff links that was causing the chain to come off. After some adjustments and a new chain, the derailleur goes through all gears with smooth action and the chain stays on.

I also fixed the kickstand issue, found my original Corvette kickstand, cleaned it up with steel wool and put it on. Stance now with kickstand down is good, before and after with old kickstand attached.


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## Chris (Oct 10, 2020)

Assembly complete! Here are a few pictures, the last couple are with the “new to 62” deluxe rear rack installed. I’ll have to get replacement fenders at some point, the stainless steel ones for 62 with chrome braces are hard to find, and the width changed after 62...not helpful. Thanks everyone for the education along the way, especially @GTs58!


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## Goldenrod (Oct 10, 2020)

Chris said:


> Glad I didn’t pull my fenders yet, turns out the fender purchase I mentioned was a scam, looks to have been going on for a while on the site, I didn’t know as I don’t read all areas of the site, especially the “Forum Issues” section...but there it is, the long thread of members getting scammed by a guy who establishes a new account, trolls the Wanted adds, then sends members a PM referring a second person as someone who has what they need. I got taken, feel stupid, won’t happen twice. That new member now shows as “Suspended”, but shows he is actively trolling the parts section of the site. Oh well, guess I’ll learn to live with my dented fenders and file dispute with PayPal.


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## Chris (Oct 10, 2020)

@Goldenrod, Looks like your post/reply changed, you originally posted “what about a good fender roll”? I reached out to Smoopys who rolls fenders, but they said they outsource the work to Bicycle Bones. I sent him a message about doing mine but never heard back. I’ll have to circle back at some point and find another person who rolls fenders. I have a couple other bike projects waiting, so I’m letting this one sit for a while, fenders aren’t as good as the rest of the bike but they are not horrible.


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## Rivnut (Oct 11, 2020)

@Chris,  check out 10 18 Kustoms (use Google to find the web address.)  Under "restoration and gallery," he advertises rolling fenders $15 each, $25 for a pair.  I know this price is for fenders without braces.  You pay freight both ways.  I've used him before and I've been very pleased.  He did both of the fenders in this picture.  They were a mess when I got them;  looked like a kid took a ball-pein hammer to them.


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