# G519 Ser # 51874



## Fred Green (Feb 4, 2020)

Hello All,

     In a couple of weeks I will be picking up a Huffman G519 Serial Number 51874. I plan on restoring it or at least stabilizing it. 

      I have read all of the threads in the military section and am amazed at the depth of knowledge here. I am wondering about the configuration that it should be in when I am finished. I have read about pedal changes, seat changes, grip changes and a multitude of other things about this style of bike changing during production during the war. With all of this knowledge I was wondering how my bike would have looked coming out of the factory in 1942.

     Here are some of the questions that I have:

1. *PEDALS- *What style of pedals would have been on it? Rubber/Wood?

2. *BELL-* Did it come with an issue bell? Who manufactured these?

3.* LIGHT- *From what I see , it came with a flat top non-embossed 'Delta Winner' front light, Is there a comparable civilian model I could use if I can't find an original? 

4.*GRIPS-  *I have read that the first issue bikes came with black rubber grips and then they changed to Green plastic. Which style would be probable for this serial number

5.*TOOL BAGS- *The million dollar question, I see that this is probably the hardest item to find. Are there any reproductions being made?? What is the going price for an original?

6. *HUB MARKINGS-* I have seen in the threads that the hubs are marked in a specific way. Is there a chart or listing for the entire war?

      Thanks for looking at this thread. This will probably be quite  rebuild for me and I prefer to get it right the first time. I am sure that it will be quite some time before I get a lot of the accessories and understand that. I have visited the Repro pages that other have posted and have a manual coming . I see that http://www.bergerwerke.com/ is right in my backyard. and am looking to establish some contact with these guys in the near future. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Fred
Sparta


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## Mercian (Feb 5, 2020)

Hi Fred,

Well, you're going about this the right way, asking qestions before starting work. There is the slight problem that the answers to some of your questions are not currently known, or, at the least, are debatable.

These are my thoughts, others may know better than me, and I'll be happy to learn too. @Bozman may be the best t answer, since he has owned the very original D51646 which is the closest survivor to yours. See the post halfway down this page : https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=153923&start=15

You may also have already seen these sites to help you:



			WW2 Bicycle Data - Sticky - G503 Military Vehicle Message Forums
		




			Military Bicycles
		










						1942 G519 Huffman Bike project | Military Bicycles
					

Here's my my latest project which is a 1942 Huffman US Army issue bike.  I purchased this off another member several months ago...  The original finish is still there and I intent to semi-restore this bike keeping as much of the original finish as possible, and replacing broken or missing...




					thecabe.com
				




Here are some of the questions that I have:

1. *PEDALS- *What style of pedals would have been on it? Rubber/Wood?

Because it's still early war, I think rubber.

2. *BELL-* Did it come with an issue bell? Who manufactured these?

The bell was produced by Bevin. There are civilian ones that can be obtained and painted. 

there is an example here: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/wwii-army-519-od-bevin-bell-vintage-471905970

3.* LIGHT- *From what I see , it came with a flat top non-embossed 'Delta Winner' front light, Is there a comparable civilian model I could use if I can't find an original?

Yes, it is not specifically a miltary light. Issue ones are in olive drab paint from the packaging, and civilian ones are white, blue and maybe other colours. 
See post 13 here https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/sundays-show-and-tell-1-26-20.165161/#post-1116651 
And post 36 here https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/my-collection-ww2-g519-military-bikes.128550/page-2#post-1116661

4.*GRIPS- *I have read that the first issue bikes came with black rubber grips and then they changed to Green plastic. Which style would be probable for this serial number

The black grips.

5.*TOOL BAGS- *The million dollar question, I see that this is probably the hardest item to find. Are there any reproductions being made?? What is the going price for an original?

There are currently no reproductions.I have bought three originals in the last three years, prices ranged from $50 for the nicest, to $300. It's a question of luck, and how long you want to wait.

6. *HUB MARKINGS-* I have seen in the threads that the hubs are marked in a specific way. Is there a chart or listing for the entire war? 

The front hubs are all marked the same, Eclipse 36-10. The rear hubs are Morrow and dated.

See post 13 for an example of a dated Morrow hub.









						Huffman Dayton G519 Frame Numbers | Military Bicycles
					

Dear All,  In addition to the Westfield Columbia G519 details I've been collecting, I've also collected as many extant Huffman Dayton G519 details from the internet as I could find.  There follows a list of them, which is partly an experiment to find the best way of posting and managing a longer...




					thecabe.com
				




The hub is M1, which is M = 1943, 1 = 1st Quarter (ie, Jan - March).

If your hub is original to the bike it is probably L1. Please let us know.

The only list of these numbers for Huffmans is the list I've compiled at post 14 on the same link as above.

I hope this heps.

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## Fred Green (Feb 5, 2020)

Hello Adrian,

      Thank you very much. This is the type of information and the direction that I need to go. This will be an interesting process! Thanks again.

Fred
Sparta


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## blackcat (Feb 5, 2020)

Hello;
Just like Adrian, i'm very happy for your future conpanion G519 HUFFMAN.
Alrouthgh i have not yet found a HUFFMAN in my home (let alone that of my brother), here is what i thanks.
For the pedals, they have the Roman style rear landing (is this the original one...), your chocks must be made of wood, that of www.bergerwerk.com is fine.
On the other hand, you have a dogleg crank from COLUMBIA









Here are Gothics for exemple



For the grips, these are rubber bottles coke, you can find them at DENNIS CARPENTER CUSHMAN.



For the light, i join Adrian, it is a DELTA WINNER civilian in white color most often wich passed in OD for the army.









Toolbag...

Regards;
Serge


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## Fred Green (Feb 6, 2020)

Hello Serge,

     Thank you for your information. I didn't know that the Huffman had a straight arm crank. This is interesting. It appears to have been there for a long time. Do we know exactly when the pedals were changed from rubber to wood. I had seen Bill's (HUFFMANBILL) thread on pedals and that was an interesting read. I also saw that you had a pair of pedals that did not conform to this idea. Trying to find out as much information as possible. Thank you again for your input. I found a pair of hard plastic black grips and a nice set of pedals in a box in the basement. I will post pictures soon.

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Feb 6, 2020)

Hello,

     Here are some civilian Torrington pedals, extra rubber parts, and grips that I have. I also have the civilian model "Winner" front light but with the embossing on the top and missing the knurled knob on the back end.


Fred
Sparta


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## blackcat (Feb 6, 2020)

Hello;
I also think that the dogleg crank has been mounted for a very long time which could also explain the mounting of the TORRINGTON "8 pedals of Roman style in wood.
Regards;
Serge


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## Fred Green (Feb 6, 2020)

Serge,
    I was also thinking this. Maybe this is a replacement crank and pedals during the war. Great eye!!!

Fred
Sparta


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## HUFFMANBILL (Feb 7, 2020)

Mercian said:


> Hi Fred,
> 
> Well, you're going about this the right way, asking qestions before starting work. There is the slight problem that the answers to some of your questions are not currently known, or, at the least, are debatable.
> 
> ...




If I am not mistaken 1942 Huffman D51646, which I believe was previously owned by Craig Johnson is now owned by ChadC in Ca. and has been since around April of last year.
Regards,
Bill


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## Fred Green (Feb 12, 2020)

Hello,

     In less than a week I pick this beauty up!! From the conversation on this thread it appears that the crank and pedals have been replaced. Most likely a wartime period replacement by the look and age. I will see what the rear hub and fork are marked and go from there. Thanks for all the help so far. I am sure that I will be needing more in the future.. A special "Thanks" goes out to HUFFMANBILL for schooling me on correct period saddles. I will be needing one in the future.

Fred
Sparta


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## ChadC (Feb 15, 2020)

Yup! 51646 is sitting in my livingroom next to her sisters, motorized and not....if you need pictures Fred, just ask!!
I have a spare, restored light that I'd let go. I got that before I had 51646! Not sure if mil or civilian. I can get a pic when it gets light out...


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## Fred Green (Feb 15, 2020)

Hello,

      Down the road I will be getting back with you chad on some pictures and questions on your bike. At the moment I am packing for the largest Militaria show in the US.

Fred
Sparta


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## fat tire trader (Feb 15, 2020)

blackcat said:


> Hello;
> I also think that the dogleg crank has been mounted for a very long time which could also explain the mounting of the TORRINGTON "8 pedals of Roman style in wood.
> Regards;
> Serge



Hi Serge, What do you mean by "Roman Style"? Thanks, Chris


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## Fred Green (Feb 15, 2020)

Hello Chris,

     Here was the discussion on pedal backs: https:   https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/correct-torrington-pedal-back-plates-for-g519.152986/

Fred
Sparta


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## ChadC (Feb 17, 2020)

Some light pix for Fred...


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## Fred Green (Feb 18, 2020)

Hello,

    I couldn't tell you the difference between a repainted pre war civilian and a WWII issue. I am sure a couple on this thread can though!!

Fred
Sparta


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## ChadC (Feb 18, 2020)

Lol. Me either. I don't know a single thing about these...


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## New Mexico Brant (Feb 18, 2020)

Fred Green said:


> I also have the civilian model "Winner" front light but with the embossing on the top and missing the knurled knob on the back end.



The Delta model you mentioned above, with the "Winner" embossing is post-war.  Others can chime in but my understanding is the only difference between a pre-war civilian and a WWII issue is the OD paint.


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## Fred Green (Feb 21, 2020)

Hello,

    I picked up the bike yesterday. I will get some close ups some time today. The license over the head badge is a Des Moines Iowa 1951 License. The rear rim is shot and need to be replaced. Overall it is pretty solid but the fenders will need to be rolled . It has about 2-3 coats of OD paint. I will need to sit down and see if it was a GI job or post war.

Fred


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## fat tire trader (Feb 21, 2020)

Fred Green said:


> Hello Chris,
> 
> Here was the discussion on pedal backs: https:   https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/correct-torrington-pedal-back-plates-for-g519.152986/
> 
> ...



Thanks, I had not paid attention to that thread. I'll have to check my pedals now.
Chris


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## blackcat (Feb 21, 2020)

Hello Chris;
Sorry for the delay, i forgot you; your pedals are roman style and are those of your HUFFMAN.
Regards;
Serge


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## Fred Green (Feb 23, 2020)

Hey Guys, 

    The bike is loaded in the car headed to Sparta, Wi. Pictures to follow soon!!!

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Feb 25, 2020)

Hello All,

     I got her home and she is getting a bath in wd-40. There hasn't been a drop of lube on this bike in quite a while. The back rim is rusted through but almost everything else looks pretty good. Time will tell when I get it apart!!


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## Fred Green (Feb 26, 2020)

Hello,

     Starting to disassemble the G519.  It has been sitting someplace for quite some time. The back rim is rusted through. It appears that the front one can probably be saved. The front axle threads on one side  are pretty much gone. The seat needs to be rebuilt......... a ton of work in which I will enjoy. I got it about half disassembled. I had to cut the small bolts for the chain guard, and rear fender. The were so rusted they had become 1 piece with the nuts. The goose neck is still tight as is the head set. I am letting them set for another day before I try anything else. It appears that it had at least 3 coats of paint. I can see the light green/yellow primer and an additional 2-3 coats. The last coat might have been gloss from the paint behind the chain guard. The civilian plate was for Des Moines Iowa good till 1953. I haven't cleaned the hubs and wheels but I did get behind the forks and it appears to be a number 22 on the back side. There are 2 locks locked on the bike. Are either of these issue locks? Thanks again.

Fred
Sparta


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## johan willaert (Feb 27, 2020)

IMO the locks are not Army issue.... Most riders would have locked their bikes with US Army issued padlocks and a piece of chain...
There were some specific bicycle locks available in the 40s, but they would have been purchased outside the Armed Forces…

Both above are shown on this page of my website: http://www.theliberator.be/militarybicycles.htm

Enjoy the build of your bike, it is very close to my 1942 Huffman featured on this board too


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## Fred Green (Feb 27, 2020)

Hello Johan,

    Thanks for the info. I have a couple of newer Brass US marked locks that I will probably use. Was there a standard Rear reflector that came on this bike?? Thanks.

Fred


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## Fred Green (Feb 27, 2020)

Here are some newer Army marked locks that I have. They will have to do until I find a nice period one.

Fred
Sparta


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## fat tire trader (Feb 27, 2020)

This is the Reflector on my Dayton.


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## Fred Green (Feb 28, 2020)

Hello,

      Thanks for the fast reply. This is interesting!! I am going to have to do some serious searching for one of these!!

Fred


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## DaGasMan (Feb 28, 2020)

I thought the rear fender reflector should be the small (about 1.25”)
raspberry type . Sorry, no photos to post, but they’re here on this site.

And I gotta say, your project Huffman G-519 is amazing. Bring that 
baby back to life!


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## johan willaert (Feb 28, 2020)

This is as far as I know the only correct reflector for WW2 Army issue G519 bikes
Made by WALD


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## fat tire trader (Feb 28, 2020)

I believe that the oval reflector is original on my 1943 Dayton.


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## Fred Green (Mar 3, 2020)

johan willaert said:


> This is as far as I know the only correct reflector for WW2 Army issue G519 bikes
> Made by WALD
> 
> View attachment 1147320



Hello,

     Is the red portion Glass or plastic? Thanks.

Fred
Sparta


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## blackcat (Mar 3, 2020)

Hello;
Plastic!
Regards;
Serge


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## Fred Green (Mar 3, 2020)

Thanks Serge, 

     I picked up 3 today!!

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Mar 4, 2020)

Hello,
     These are the reflectors that I picked up the other day!

Fred
Sparta


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## Mercian (Mar 6, 2020)

Hi Fred,

Were you able to determine the date code on the Morrow hub, likely L1 to 4 or M1 to 4?.

Thanks,

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## Fred Green (Mar 6, 2020)

Hello Adrian,
    Not yet. Once I get the rear wheel disassembled I will find out. It have a heavy coat of paint on it.

Fred


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## Mercian (Mar 6, 2020)

Thanks Fred.

No worries, no hurry.

Best Regards,

Adriab


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## Fred Green (Mar 28, 2020)

Hello,

    The bike is coming along. I have still been unable to remove the headset from the bike so it is still getting soaked. Both rims are shot I am still soaking the rear rim and hopefully will be able to save some spokes. I saved 33 out of 36 on the front wheel. I felt good about that. The chain adjusters were rusted into place. I actually got one out and the other broke on me. It is now re moved and I have replacements. I straightened out the chain guard and am getting the fenders rolled. From the pictures that I have seen they look great! The original pedals were shot. The bearing races had grow into the cups It took 2 full days of soaking in evapo-rust just to get them where I could chisel them out.

    I now have replacement rims and correct spokes and nipples are coming. I get to learn how to lace and true a wheel now!!!! I have not taken the rear wheel apart yet so I cannot tell you the hub numbers. Some of the insides of the hub were marked and that will be a later post

    I have been picking up accessories for the bike in the mean time. I have original grips, light, reflector, bell , repop pump clip and pedals. I am working on an original pump and clip. When I get my tool pouch, I have an oiler, adjustable an air pressure gauge and Morrow tool. The morrow tool is a repop. 

     Hopefully I can start on the wheels next week.

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Mar 28, 2020)

The original pedals were shot. The bearing were rusted solid. The end of the pedals are in sad shape and the center post is a rusted mess. I had picked up wooden Pieces for them but it will have to be a later project. It will be time consuming.


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## ChadC (Mar 28, 2020)

I don't know how I missed the WD-40 bike bath....love it. I can smell it from here.


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## ChadC (Mar 28, 2020)

Isn't that square can oiler from the 1919A4 or 11917A1 tool kit? 

ETA: Close...


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## blackcat (Mar 29, 2020)

Hello;
Yes, it is the oil can for armament in particular.
Regards;
Serge


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

Hello,

  I have collected military items my whole life. My focus is WWII German Army cloth insignia but I have dabbled in many other areas. The oiler was sitting in the basement! 

Fred
Sparta


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## ChadC (Mar 29, 2020)

Perfect. Best kind of stuff to use is already stuff you have on the shelf!


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

The Saddle was seriously rusted. It was bathed in liquid wrench, Penetrol, PB Blaster and then finally soaked in Evapo-Rust. It did come apart but it definitely was a job. Bill Huffman said he would help me on a rebuild!! That is great news because I have seen his work.


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

Adrian,

    I have the rear hub disassembled but the hub body is still on the rim. It has a thick coat of paint on it and I am unable to read the date. The interior parts were marked  as M2 and L4. I have a civilian Morrow hub and the same parts are marked P2


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

The rear rim is non usable. It is rusted through. I will be attempting to remove the spokes next week. I have used the same multi pronged assault on it as I did the seat. I don't have enough Evapo-Rust to submerge it in. I actually removed 2 nipples and attempted others with no luck!!


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

The fenders were pretty beat up and bent. They had a couple of serious creases in them. I sent them to Jeffry Olsen who rolled them out for return postage. I haven't gotten them back yet but saw some pictures of his work. Phenomenal to say the least. Here are the before pictures.


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## HUFFMANBILL (Mar 29, 2020)

Hi Fred,

Looks like you have rear eclipse hub internal parts that are dated either 4th quarter 1942 (L4) and 2nd quarter 1943 (M2).  Don't know why there would be late 42 and early 43 parts in the hub on a early 1942 Huffman except that either the rear complete wheel was replaced early on or maybe just the the hub internals were replaced .  Never know what will turn up on these bikes or what condition they will be in, especially internal unseen parts, after more then 75 years.

Regards,
Bill


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

Bill,

     Thanks for the info. Maybe this bike got run over by a Deuce and a half and was rebuilt!!

Fred
Sparta


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## HUFFMANBILL (Mar 29, 2020)

Fred,
I think if your bike got run over by a Deuce and a half your Huffman semi-round fender braces would have been transformed into Columbia very flat braces HaHa!!! Anyway, who knows!

Regards,
Bill


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## DaGasMan (Mar 29, 2020)

Fred,
I was wondering if A) you can make out what type of chain your bicycle has
and B) what’s the diameter of the front axel? I’m having a bit of a dilemma 
with mine fitting the forks properly. I have a 3/8“ dia. axel in a Bendix K hub,
(minus the quill) however it doesn’t have the typical flattened spots in the threaded part to accommodate the axel grooves of the forks. 
Thanks for the help.


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## Fred Green (Mar 29, 2020)

Hello,

        I took pictures of 1.) Rear axle, 2. Front Axle. and a 3.)civilian rear axle with my micrometer. Both of my axles appear to be stock G519 axle just by the wear. The front one is really rough. I have no flattened spots on the axle to accommodate axle grooves of the forks. they were threaded all the way except for a smooth portion in the center.

1.) rear axle from the bike










2.) Front axle









The front axle is in very bad shape. I was looking at using the civilian rear axle but there is a slight length and width discrepancy.









Axle 3.) is a civilian rear axle from a Morrow hub. It is a little bit longer and a bit thinner.









    The bike did not have a chain when I purchased it. The manual calls for a Chain,Duckworth,3/16" x 1", 57 Link. I need to start looking for a chain.

I hope this helps.

Fred
Sparta


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## DaGasMan (Mar 29, 2020)

As always your reply has given me plenty of valuable information. 
Thank you sir. I’m going to file the flats and recut the threads to
clean them up. My axel measures .375” also, which leads me to 
believe I purchased the wrong forks. But it’s an easy fix.
 Thanks Fred. PETE


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## HUFFMANBILL (Mar 30, 2020)

Hey Fred,

Look for either a Baldwin - Duckworth skiptooth chain ( connecting links are stamped B-D USA ) or a Duckworth chain with the outline of a little duck stamped into each connecting link. My opinion is that the B-D USA stamped chain, which seems to be the more common of the two chains is the better choice.  

Regards,
Bill


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## Fred Green (Mar 30, 2020)

Bill,

     Thanks a lot. That was my next question!! Was it a 57 link chain? The manual states that it was.

Fred
Sparta


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## Goldslinger (Mar 31, 2020)

DaGasMan said:


> As always your reply has given me plenty of valuable information.
> Thank you sir. I’m going to file the flats and recut the threads to
> clean them up. My axel measures .375” also, which leads me to
> believe I purchased the wrong forks. But it’s an easy fix.
> Thanks Fred. PETE



I have a 42 Columbia and it has flat spots on front axle  and it has original fork and axle. A 3/8 axle will not fit without the flat spots.


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## Fred Green (Mar 31, 2020)

Goldslinger said:


> I have a 42 Columbia and it has flat spots on front axle  and it has original fork and axle. A 3/8 axle will not fit without the flat spots.




Hello,

    Is this a Columbia thing? I did not see these on my axles.

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Mar 31, 2020)

Hello,

     Since my spokes, nipples and fender did not arrive today I started work on the rear wheel. Some of the spokes had grown into the rim and nipples. Out of 36 spokes I only broke 10. I was surprised!! There was gobs og old paint besides the rust holding them in. It was a little tiring but I got it done. The rear hub was marked M1. Now to rework the new rims and hope the spokes get here soon.

Fred 
Sparta


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## ChadC (Mar 31, 2020)

Spokes and nipples...nipples and spokes. Took me all da*n day to lace up my first set if wheels...

Good job getting those off and only losing 10!


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## Mercian (Apr 1, 2020)

Hi Fred,

Thanks for letting us know about the hub.

M1, so first quarter 1943, and some of the parts M2, second quarter 43. There's no reason why the shell should be the latest dated part.

Not the original hub, but a good wartime hub anyway. (-:

And not a surprise, the early bikes by definition see more wear, and are more likely to be repaired before the end of the war than the later bicycles. You can see that of the known survivors close to yours, only two have feasibly their original hubs, and one of those lost it's chainwheel.

1942    D    50531    Curved Bar Military    677    L1    Coffin    N/K
1942    D    50546    Curved Bar Military    677    M2    Swirl    12  (Jan 42)
1942    D    51630    Curved Bar Military    677    L1     Swirl    12  (Jan 42)
1942    D    51646    Curved Bar Military    677    M1    Swirl    12  (Jan 42)
1942    D    51874    Curved Bar Military    677    M1    Swirl    22  (Feb 42)

I don't know the hub date on mine yet, part of the Great Unboxing fun (-:

Stay Safe,

Adrian


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## HUFFMANBILL (Apr 1, 2020)

Fred Green said:


> Bill,
> 
> Thanks a lot. That was my next question!! Was it a 57 link chain? The manual states that it was.
> 
> ...




Fred,

The chains for these bikes typically have 56 - 1'' roller links ( which come in contact and roll over the sprocket teeth) and 55 connecting links ( connect the roller links together).  There should also be a master link, which in effect is a connecting link with a spring clip that allows for connecting the two ends of the chain together once it is in place on the bike .  So actually there are 112 links on the chain ( 56 roller, 55 connecting, 1 master = 112)  You are correct the Tech. Manual does state 57 links.  Unless I am mistaken that number is in reference to the 56- 1'' roller and 1 master link. Also the total length of the complete chain with master link is approximately ( just a bit under) 57''.  Hope this helps?

Regards,
Bill


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## Fred Green (Apr 1, 2020)

HUFFMANBILL said:


> Fred,
> 
> The chains for these bikes typically have 56 - 1'' roller links ( which come in contact and roll over the sprocket teeth) and 55 connecting links ( connect the roller links together).  There should also be a master link, which in effect is a connecting link with a spring clip that allows for connecting the two ends of the chain together once it is in place on the bike .  So actually there are 112 links on the chain ( 56 roller, 55 connecting, 1 master = 112)  You are correct the Tech. Manual does state 57 links.  Unless I am mistaken that number is in reference to the 56- 1'' roller and 1 master link. Also the total length of the complete chain with master link is approximately ( just a bit under) 57''.  Hope this helps?
> 
> ...




Bill,

     This answers all of my questions about this chain. Thanks for the knowledge update. 

Fred
Sparta.


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## ChadC (Apr 1, 2020)

Helps!


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## DaGasMan (Apr 2, 2020)

HUFFMANBILL said:


> Fred,
> 
> The chains for these bikes typically have 56 - 1'' roller links ( which come in contact and roll over the sprocket teeth) and 55 connecting links ( connect the roller links together).  There should also be a master link, which in effect is a connecting link with a spring clip that allows for connecting the two ends of the chain together once it is in place on the bike .  So actually there are 112 links on the chain ( 56 roller, 55 connecting, 1 master = 112)  You are correct the Tech. Manual does state 57 links.  Unless I am mistaken that number is in reference to the 56- 1'' roller and 1 master link. Also the total length of the complete chain with master link is approximately ( just a bit under) 57''.  Hope this helps?
> 
> ...




Bill, That answer right there is going to save a lot of time, money and aggravation. Thank you.


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## Fred Green (Apr 2, 2020)

Hello,

     Checking out some paint today. Today I sprayed a couple of different things, Chain adjusters, nipples and spokes. I painted the ones on the left with Testors Flat Olive Drab Fs 34087 The items on the right with WWII OD Lusterless 33070 from Army Jeep Parts. the items on the left have a slightly more brown tinge to them, a little more green on the right side.

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Apr 7, 2020)

Hello,

     Just got my fenders back today. Jeffry Olsen did a fantastic job of rolling them out. If I ever have need for that service again Jeffry is my go to guy!

Fred
Sparta


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## HUFFMANBILL (Apr 7, 2020)

Fred Green said:


> Hello,
> 
> Checking out some paint today. Today I sprayed a couple of different things, Chain adjusters, nipples and spokes. I painted the ones on the left with Testors Flat Olive Drab Fs 34087 The items on the right with WWII OD Lusterless 33070 from Army Jeep Parts. the items on the left have a slightly more brown tinge to them, a little more green on the right side.
> 
> ...



Hi Fred,
I always use the 33070 either from AJP or Rapco.

Regards,
Bill


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## Fred Green (Apr 7, 2020)

Hello,

    The 33070 is a great shade.

Fred
Sparta


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## Fred Green (Apr 12, 2020)

Hello,

     After 2 months of soaking in PB blaster I finally got the headset off. I had to use heat because there was no other way. Even then it took 45 minutes!!!

Fred


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## fat tire trader (Apr 12, 2020)

Hi Fred,

Congratulations on getting your headset apart!

I have use an order of operations that helps me disassemble bikes. I don't know if you did it in this order or not.

When I am beginning to dis-assemble a bike, I start with the headset. While the whole bike is still together, it is easier to get the headset loose. With the bike on the ground, the front wheel between my knees, one hand on the handlebar and one hand on the headset wrench, I loosen the headset. If the bike has already had the front wheel and gooseneck removed it is much harder to get the leverage and control to loosen the headset. If the headset does not loosen, I don't continue dis-assembly. I apply penetrating oil, and walk away and wait. Once the headset is loose, I then remove the pedals and then loosen the gooseneck from the fork while the handlebar is still in place. Once loose, I tighten the gooseneck, remove the handlebar, and then remove the gooseneck.

If you did not do it in this order, try it next time. It helps a lot.

Chris


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## Fred Green (Apr 12, 2020)

Hello Chris,

      I tried that way first. It gives me good leverage to twist. I filled the entire steering tube with PB blaster. I had the frame upside down and filled the fender hole. Nothing leaked out. It was filled for the entire month!! The wedge and bolt came right apart!! But the nut holding the goose neck was frozen solid. 
    It is all apart now!! Time to finish cleaning and lubing the headset and to start working on wheels!!!

Fred
Sparta


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## fat tire trader (Apr 12, 2020)

It sounds like your trouble was removing the gooseneck and not the headset. Am I understanding correctly?


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## Fred Green (Apr 12, 2020)

Sorry about that Yes, The nut on top was frozen solid. The Tapered Threaded nut that rests below it was loose .

Fred
Sparta.


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## dvwoods65 (Aug 14, 2020)

Fred Green said:


> Hello,
> 
> Just got my fenders back today. Jeffry Olsen did a fantastic job of rolling them out. If I ever have need for that service again Jeffry is my go to guy!
> 
> ...





Fred Green said:


> Hello,
> 
> Just got my fenders back today. Jeffry Olsen did a fantastic job of rolling them out. If I ever have need for that service again Jeffry is my go to guy!
> 
> ...



Hi Fred, I have fenders that need to be rolled as well and was wondering if you could provide me Jeffrey Olsen's contact info?  Thanks, Dan


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## Fred Green (Aug 16, 2020)

dvwoods65 said:


> Hi Fred, I have fenders that need to be rolled as well and was wondering if you could provide me Jeffrey Olsen's contact info?  Thanks, Dan



 Hello,

      I need to look him up again. He is a friend of mine through Facebook and I can't remember his name here.

Fred


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## dvwoods65 (Aug 16, 2020)

Fred Green said:


> Hello,
> 
> I need to look him up again. He is a friend of mine through Facebook and I can't remember his name here.
> 
> Fred



Okay, thanks.


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