# 1963 Bendix two speed hub rebuild



## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 2, 2022)

Anyone out there with advice, warnings and/or insights about taking apart a locked up Bendix 2 speed hub (red rings) and putting it back together.  I do have the 1969 Schwinn Shop Manual on p. 237 and following.


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## ADReese (Dec 2, 2022)

They aren't too bad. I should be able to help with any questions. The index spring is delicate and often time needs to be replaced. I would recommend buying this tool or make one out of a socket.


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 2, 2022)

Do they sell them on eBay?


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Dec 2, 2022)

Huntingtonbikeguru said:


> Do they sell them on eBay?



Yes


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 2, 2022)

Found one and got it ordered


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Dec 2, 2022)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182724229039?campid=5335809022Pricy there are a bunch of post on how to make one at home if you are so inclined.


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## J-wagon (Dec 2, 2022)

Straightforward, not as bad as manuals look. Some tips:
There are 11 loose bearing balls, but if gummy inside, they will not spill out









During reassembly, slide all nondrive side internals onto axle and insert thru nondrive side hub. Then insert drive side. 




Good luck and have fun!
👍👍


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## ian (Dec 2, 2022)

Take your time and don't force anything. I've rebuilt 3 or 4 and didn't have any problems. You got this 👍


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## WillWork4Parts (Dec 2, 2022)

This is mostly a guess based on what I've encountered and judging by your hub's appearance of not being too abused....but I imagine it's locked up due to someone using heavy grease on the driver/clutch threads and letting it sit to dry up. First I'd recommend taking the clip ring off that holds the drive side dust cover on, and the dust cover will pull off. Lay it over drive side up and douse the internals with penetrating oil. Let it soak up whatever it will through the outer bearing race opening and in between the hub shell and sprocket. This will help loosen any dried up clay-like grease, at least enough to make disassembly easier. Give it some time to wick down into the hub and then try to rotate whichever side will free up first. When removing the drive side cone, you may have to rotate it counter clockwise a bit(to where it binds) then rotate the sprocket and hub clockwise while holding the brake arm and cone still to undo the binding induced in the clutch/driver....and repeat until the planetary gears are disengaged (approximately 1/2").

Hope this helps!


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## Eric Amlie (Dec 3, 2022)

ADReese said:


> They aren't too bad. I should be able to help with any questions.



One thing the manuals don't talk much about is lubrication during an overhaul.
Can you talk about that a little? What kind and how much? Most importantly I'm wondering about lubrication of the brake discs on the red band and the "shoes" on the yellow & blue bands.


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## ian (Dec 3, 2022)

I use Marvel Mystery Oil on all those parts.  Just grease on the bearings.


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## ADReese (Dec 3, 2022)

I agree, I use light motor oil on the brake parts and a park grease on the bearings and moving parts.


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## WillWork4Parts (Dec 3, 2022)

Yes, pack the bearings with grease to hopefully hold your oil in from just running out of the hub. Grease on the planetary gears makes the hub growl when the gears are engaged. Just oil on the planetary gears seems like it would run dry quicker, so I've been greasing the sides of the gears and shaft....and maybe a little gets in the ring gear too, but I coat all of that with gear oil. Coat all of the internals with gear oil and put a light coat of grease on the brake shoe ramps. Once everything I want greased is greased, I'll assemble one half of the hub and add more oil so that everything is rotating in an oil bath. Just don't fill it excessively to overflow past the bearings.
The NOS red band discs I've had came in the wax paper bag packed with grease. I'd be tempted on my next rebuild to use oil like in a New Departure for the discs too. 
 The main thing you want to avoid is putting grease on the internal parts too heavy and letting the hub sit to dry out. Grease on the index spring can cause it to stick to the driver and not do it's "ratcheting" job. Very light grease on the driver threads is ok, but once that cakes up, you get actuating issues.


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## spleeft (Dec 14, 2022)

Ive rebuilt a few and used Phil Wood grease on everything but the brake shoes ( at first a little too much and it leaks out while riding , also was a little hard to turn so I simply partially disassembled and removed the excess ....kind of have to "trail and error" it ). And Pro Gold EPX Cycle grease on the brake shoes ( both Red and Yellow Band ) and actually kind of on the heavy side. The EPX seems to works great. I ride mine a lot also.
Here is my first rebuild thread of the 2-speed kickback, def used too much Phil wood but that amount on the brakes worked out well.
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/f...-drug-i-think-this-will-be-fun.182807/page-12


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 14, 2022)

Ok gang. I got my courage up and jumped in.  Got the Schwinn shop manual open to page 238 Figure 3 and I cannot get the adjusting cone gear to come loose.  Now what?


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## J-wagon (Dec 14, 2022)

Perform step 2 and Note. Then try again turn cone counterclockwise with reasonable elbow grease. It should break free.


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 14, 2022)

The sprocket is locked up and won’t move any direction


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 14, 2022)

Cannot get the sprocket to move either direction and the adjusting cone is really tight.  I can turn it counter clockwise about 1/8 rotation but then it seizes up.


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## ADReese (Dec 14, 2022)

It's difficult to explain over text, but you turn the outer piece to the left as the cog goes to the right. They go at the same time. You have to do it by feel so they don't get bound together. The planetary gears inside are turning and disengaging slowly as the outer cone unththreads from the axle.


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## WillWork4Parts (Dec 14, 2022)

....or try taking the brake side loose.


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 14, 2022)

WillWork4Parts said:


> This is mostly a guess based on what I've encountered and judging by your hub's appearance of not being too abused....but I imagine it's locked up due to someone using heavy grease on the driver/clutch threads and letting it sit to dry up. First I'd recommend taking the clip ring off that holds the drive side dust cover on, and the dust cover will pull off. Lay it over drive side up and douse the internals with penetrating oil. Let it soak up whatever it will through the outer bearing race opening and in between the hub shell and sprocket. This will help loosen any dried up clay-like grease, at least enough to make disassembly easier. Give it some time to wick down into the hub and then try to rotate whichever side will free up first. When removing the drive side cone, you may have to rotate it counter clockwise a bit(to where it binds) then rotate the sprocket and hub clockwise while holding the brake arm and cone still to undo the binding induced in the clutch/driver....and repeat until the planetary gears are disengaged (approximately 1/2").
> 
> Hope this helps!



Would appreciate a phone call for some coaching on this little projects - 260.224.0232


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 14, 2022)

ADReese said:


> They aren't too bad. I should be able to help with any questions. The index spring is delicate and often time needs to be replaced. I would recommend buying this tool or make one out of a socket.
> View attachment 1743633



AD - would you be kind enough to give me a call at your convenience Thursday at 260.224.0232.  Need some coaching.  Thanks, Brooks


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## spleeft (Dec 15, 2022)

Have you tried taking a chain ( or cassette wrench if you have one ) to really get a good grip? I'm actually doing a yellow band now and had the same problem. The locknut came off as normal and the cone nut was not turning at all. Weird how this happens, but ya the last rebuild ( prolly 40 years ago!) was done all with heavy grease. 
  I just kept twisting the cog one way / cone nut the other with an emphasis on the correct direction. It finally started come off.


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## spleeft (Dec 21, 2022)

update??!


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 21, 2022)

spleeft said:


> update??!



Thanks for asking.  Still stumped with getting the thing apart.


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## spleeft (Dec 21, 2022)

Huntingtonbikeguru said:


> Thanks for asking.  Still stumped with getting the thing apart.



Have you tried taking the brake side apart first? I just overhauled a yellow band and red band over the last two days with a few hickups... I love these hubs !!


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## Huntingtonbikeguru (Dec 21, 2022)

spleeft said:


> Have you tried taking the brake side apart first? I just overhauled a yellow band and red band over the last two days with a few hickups... I love these hubs !!



Can’t quite figure out how to get that side opened up.  By chance are you available anytime tomorrow for a phone call “coaching” session?  260.224.0232


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## J-wagon (Dec 21, 2022)

Kickback videos here in this thread:
Post in thread 'Service help needed for my Spaceliner I'm at my whits end!!' https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/s...eliner-im-at-my-whits-end.204631/post-1395910

I think internals seized/gummed up. Mount wheel onto bike and pedal forward and backward, sprocket etc should break free.


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## bikemonkey (Dec 22, 2022)

Probably gummed up and hardened grease...I suggest the application of a heat gun or hair dryer to the hub shell...always works for me.

Good luck!


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