# Western Flyer Sturmey TCW



## kevin x (Jun 26, 2019)

Hello, Please help with a little info on this bike. Is it a Raleigh? Is the SA TCW hub safe to ride? If not what should I replace it with? The Sheldon Brown site says these hubs are unreliable and sometimes unsafe because the brake might not work if the hub gets stuck between two gears. I am having trouble getting all three gears to work, I think the indicator chain may be too short. Thanks


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## kevin x (Jun 26, 2019)




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## Allrounderco (Jun 26, 2019)

Nice looking WF. As for the hub, my everyday bike is a ‘68 Schwinn Speedster lightweight with a TCW and a front rim brake. I see yours has the same setup. I don’t worry about the coaster brake failing because mine has never worked. I’m fine with just the front brake, although when riding in rain, I have to plan my stops. I’d say your cable is fine - I think the handlebars are wrong.  But this is probably compromising the cable action, and the shifter placement is wrong. If you like those bars, get a longer cable. If not, get some touring bars. Adjust everything up, and it might just work fine. There’s a rebuild video on YouTube (I haven’t seen it). One of these days I’ll have a look at mine.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 27, 2019)

The TCW can indeed be used safely in some circumstances. It needs to be mechanically gone-over to verify everything in the hub is working and you need a front hand brake to go with it. The TCW is basically a 3-speed transmission unit on one side of the hub, and a small bronze expander brake on the other side of the hub. The brake expands and rubs on the inside of the shell when you pedal in reverse.

The first issue is the one Sheldon Brown and others pointed out many years ago - that the neutral between Normal and High (2 and 3) gears on the transmission side prevents the brake also from engaging. This is solved primarily by making sure the shifter cable is correctly tensioned. (see https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/tcw.html ).

The second issue is that each "half" - the brake on one side of the hub and the transmission on the other side of the hub - is held in place with a fragile "E-clip" that snaps into a small groove at the center of the axle. If the E-clip snaps or moves out of place, the hub will malfunction. The normal way this happens is that you have a worn E-clip and while riding, you drop the transmission into High gear (3) while also coasting or else pedaling backward to apply the brake.

The conventional wisdom is to just not bother with the TCW hub and to swap in a more modern hub. I think that's wise on a high-use or commuter-type bike. But I have a contrary opinion for vintage bikes  that are used more as leisure or hobby rides and where you're not going down steep hills - that the TCW can be used with a hand brake if you keep the hub in good mechanical order and you do not allow the shifter to slam down into 3rd gear. while riding.

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2016/06/a-contrary-opinion-on-sturmey-archer.html

On your bike, you probably have the option of adding a rear hand brake caliper as well.


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## dweenk (Jun 27, 2019)

^^^^^ What @SirMike said about adding a rear brake, and I will second the suggestion to replace the handlebars. I have a brake caliper and lever (both steel) that are yours for the cost of postage. I may even have an appropriate handlebar.

Edit: I just noticed that the caliper has a long mounting bolt (front brake), so you would need to find a shorter bolt.


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## kevin x (Jun 27, 2019)

Thanks all for the great info, if anyone has any other thoughts  I would like to see them, @dweenk  I just might take you up on your generous offer


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## usarnie1 (Aug 29, 2019)

Your bike is a mid '60s English bike. Many of the parts on your bike are the same as on a Raleigh, Your bike was probably made by Raleigh Industries,  Your rear rack is a Prestube Manor, used by Raleigh on 1965 and latter bikes.  If your bike were mine, I would change the Sturmey Archer rear hub with a 40 hole AW hub and add a rear hand brake.

I agree that your butterfly handlebars need to be replaced with the traditional 3 speed handlebars.  If you are going to change your rear hub, a set of new spokes, found on e-bay and made in China would be recommended at a cost of about $10.  Both your TCW and the AW hubs measure the same diameter at 55cm.  Therefore, you will need to remove one spoke and measure its' length, prior to ordering a new set of spokes.  When you order the new spokes, ask the seller to ship you 40 spokes, otherwise they will only ship you 36 spokes!

Judging by the landscape in your photos, I presume you live in Orange, CA.  I live about 60 miles north of you in Woodland Hills, CA.  If you need any help, you can bring your bike north to my house and I could assist you with the upgrades!

Good luck,

Arnie


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## kevin x (Aug 29, 2019)

Thanks much Arnie, I think I will pursue the option you suggest.
Are 40 hole hubs harder to find? I looked a few weeks ago and didn't see any for sale. I might come to see you soon if I run into any trouble doing this [emoji16].

Kevin

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk


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## usarnie1 (Aug 29, 2019)

Hi Kevin,

Sturmey Archer 40 hole hubs are plentiful.  If you do not care about the manufacture date stamp, the cheapest one on e-bay today is only $20.  Just do a search on e-bay with the following: "Sturmey Archer 40 hole hub".

Good luck,

Arnie


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