# I'm new here- '38? Schwinn Excelsior



## malloy1 (Jan 11, 2010)

Hello-

I'm new here and I have an old Schwinn Excelsior that I picked up in a friend's old barn about 15-20 years ago.  It's pretty much all there (mother-in-law was good enough to throw away the fender's ), but rough.  I'll post some pictures of it in a day or two (I can post pictures here, right?  I have a photobucket account)

When I first got it (around 1993) I did some research, but the WWW wasn't really going then.  Somebody did tell me that the manufacturing date was on the crank.  I did remove the crank and there was an "38" on it (it's taken apart now).  I assume it's a '38 Schwinn Excelsior.  

The serial number is B86731.  Any info on it would be appreciated.  

I've been thinking about getting it back together to get it back on the road.  I will need some parts (tires, pedals, handle bars, gooseneck, bearings etc) and it needs a paint job (would like it to look original, but may just throw some paint on it to get it back on the road).

Paul

Here's some pictures (will post more later of when it was pulled from the barn










It does have a kick stand that mounts behind the rear tire (not in picture).


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## J_Westy (Jan 12, 2010)

malloy1 said:


> I assume it's a '38 Schwinn Excelsior.
> 
> The serial number is B86731.  Any info on it would be appreciated.




Hi Paul,

That's a '39 DX frame just like my Schwinn Ace that I posted about a few weeks ago, SN B21178
http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=7806

Often you'll find that the cranks are a bit older because of the inventory lag at the factory.

One just like it sold for $305 on ebay for only the frame, fork and crank.

These are very popular with the clunker crowd:
http://clunkers.net/

Have fun!
Jeff


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## Strings-n-Spokes (Jan 12, 2010)

Hi Paul

Welcome to the Cabe.  Schwinn only made a frame with 'ears' for a rear dropstand one year.  Thats a pretty good score, it is too bad about the fenders, but you should be able to find a suitable replacement here or on Ebay


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## malloy1 (Jan 12, 2010)

Here's what the bike looked in '93 when I pulled it from my friend's barn:





Would like to get some paint on it and put it back together.  Would like to get the two-tone paint (blue/biege) like original .  Don't really care if the chrome is shiny or not.  Does anybody make stencils to get the borders between the two colors looking right?  Like this style (in blue, just the paint style, not the modernization





Does anybody make reproduction parts (i.e. fenders, pedals, tires, bearings)?  

Paul


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## J_Westy (Jan 12, 2010)

malloy1 said:


> Does anybody make stencils to get the borders between the two colors looking right?




This ebay'er sells stencils. He may not necessarily have them listed on ebay at any particular time, but send him a note telling him what you want.

http://myworld.ebay.com/oldstuff4yousheepdog/


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## sensor (Jan 12, 2010)

*forget the stencils!*

(sorry if its someone here)
youre better off measuring and masking it off yourself....
i used them on my wifes bike and it was a huge p.i.t.a. took about 2 hours to get them to line up right and straight when it wouldve taken  about 30 minutes to lay them out myself with fine line(yeah i timed the next one i did:eek: ) and mask everything
as for parts...try to avoid repops they never look quite right try posting an wanted add in the for sale section im sure someone would have the things you need(or if you really dont mind repops memorylane is a good place too look)


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## J_Westy (Jan 13, 2010)

sensor said:


> (sorry if its someone here)
> youre better off measuring and masking it off yourself....
> i used them on my wifes bike and it was a huge p.i.t.a. took about 2 hours to get them to line up right and straight when it wouldve taken  about 30 minutes to lay them out myself with fine line(yeah i timed the next one i did:eek: ) and mask everything




I won't disagree that the templates are tricky to get on straight... especially if you try to do it solo, but my armature painter buddy and I did my C-model together last fall and it wasn't too bad -- one guy to lay each spear down while the other holds the loose ones off the frame.

If you're good at taping, I could definitely see how that could be faster.


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## DonChristie (Jan 13, 2010)

Well, I would try and rescue the original paint. Try using xxxx steel wool and WD40 to see what is left of the paint. You would be amazed at the results achievable. If you do stencils, they work great. I purchased a set of Dx frame stencils and did my Dx frame, turned out nice. Not real easy, tho. 
NICE BIKE! What diameter are the rims/tires?


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## malloy1 (Jan 13, 2010)

J_Westy said:


> I won't disagree that the templates are tricky to get on straight... especially if you try to do it solo, but my armature painter buddy and I did my C-model together last fall and it wasn't too bad -- one guy to lay each spear down while the other holds the loose ones off the frame.





Jeff-

Did you get the stencil from that ebay seller (oldstuff4yousheepdog) mentioned in an earlier post?  

The finished job looks good!  Is that a rattle can paint job (I see somebody on ebay sells Schwinn restoration paint in a can [vintageschwinn]) or did you use a sparay gun?

Paul


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## malloy1 (Jan 13, 2010)

schwinndoggy said:


> Well, I would try and rescue the original paint. Try using xxxx steel wool and WD40 to see what is left of the paint. You would be amazed at the results achievable.








No way to save the original paint.  Thin is an overstatement.  Most is missing, leaving very minor surface rust over a good part of it.




schwinndoggy said:


> I purchased a set of Dx frame stencils and did my Dx frame, turned out nice. Not real easy, tho.




Did you get the stencil from that ebay seller (oldstuff4yousheepdog) mentioned in an earlier post?  Did you do the pinstriping details on the forks and rims?



schwinndoggy said:


> What diameter are the rims/tires?




Aren't all the rims the same diameter?  26" right? Will check that out tonight.  

I do have some newbie questions about rims (disassembling, painting, etc.).  I see terms like S-2 rims?  Is there a section or thread (sticky?) that gives some information on the different rims used?  

The rims appear to be straight (including the spokes), but if the frame/forks are painted, I think the rims will get the same treatment.     

Paul


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## DonChristie (Jan 13, 2010)

Hey Paul,
You would be amazed at how well WD40/xxxx steel wool work. Check my thread in Pre-1933 section on my Iver Johnson-Mobicycle. It looked almost as bad as yours. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying it. http://www.thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=7416

I did buy the frame stencil from the same guy. He is great and real helpful. The fork stripes (3) come in the frame kit. Those were easy compared to the frame. Of course, it was a different and more difficult outline. 
Check it... http://www.schwinnbike.com/usa/eng/forums/showthread.php?t=76678 Yours 2 tone is relatively easy.

Some old old Schwinns had 28" rims. S2 is a 26" Schwinn rim.

Don


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## J_Westy (Jan 13, 2010)

malloy1 said:


> Jeff-
> 
> Did you get the stencil from that ebay seller (oldstuff4yousheepdog) mentioned in an earlier post?
> 
> ...




Yup -- got it from that guy. He gives you spares to practice with which is nice.

My buddy shot the C with a HVLP touch up gun using single stage urethane. After a couple weeks, I polished out the paint line for a nice smooth finish before I had it pin striped.

Here's the whole build for the bike if you're interested.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61972


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## malloy1 (Jan 13, 2010)

schwinndoggy said:


> Well, I would try and rescue the original paint. Try using xxxx steel wool and WD40 to see what is left of the paint. You would be amazed at the results achievable. If you do stencils, they work great. I purchased a set of Dx frame stencils and did my Dx frame, turned out nice. Not real easy, tho.
> NICE BIKE! What diameter are the rims/tires?




SOB-The rust turned blue.  Still don't know if it's really worth saving.  I'll spend some time (rubbing compound/waxing?) on it and repost some pictures and see what you guys think.

Is the bike really worth keeping with the original paint?

Is there anybody in the Denver/boulder area that can make a determination to keep the paint or ditch it for a new coat?

I measured the rims at 22.75" rim to rim?  I think that would make it 26" with tires (the original tires were ditch in '93)?  

Paul


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## sensor (Jan 14, 2010)

compound and glaze will work wonders but youll loose the stripes


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## malloy1 (Jan 14, 2010)

*I think I figured out what put this bike in a barn*

Well, I started to take the bike apart (some more) to start cleaning it up.  The grease is as hard as concrete (soaking parts in mineral spirits).  Started with the front and rear hubs.  Seems the departure mechanism has a spring metal clip (it's bent) that suppose to go into slot (?) that pulls the two set of teeth together inside the hub (see pictures below). 










Can I just get the clip or should I just replace the whole rear hub?  

Any diagrams on how this mechanism is put together?  I've kept it together so I can reassemble it correctly, but I like to have some to confirm how it suppose to be assembled incase somebody before me has taken apart and reassembled wrong.  

There is 11 sets of washers in the rear hub (11-three ear, and 11-double "D" washers  placed alternating on the opposite side of the sprocket), and some of them were stuck together pretty good with the oil that was still in the hub.  How is everything lubricated and what is good to use?  I assume the chain and departure mechanism needs to be oiled and all the bearing need to packed with grease?  

Also, some ball bearing are missing.  Can I just go the hardware store and find a suitable or do I need to replace the bearing?

Spokes!  All the spoke threads and nuts are rusted together.  Only thing I can think of doing is cut them all off and get new ones.  Are they common spokes sizes?  

How are part numbers figured out with these old bikes?  Seems like all the parts are similiar?  I'm use to getting parts for my old Volvos, this bike is new to me and I like to get the right parts.

I know these are real newbie questions, any help is appreciated. 

Paul


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## DonChristie (Jan 14, 2010)

The hub is a New Departure? The tab does go into the slot as you figured. Just get parts from the auction site. Hub is ok, just inners. Those washers need to go into the hub first in the correct orientation, then slide the rest onto it. Your LBS may have similiar size bearings you can put into cup. Spokes are pricey....leave them and clean them, IMO. You are becoming experienced right before our eyes, lol.

Heres a diagram...http://www.nostalgic.net/pictures/673.htm


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