# coaster brake is horrible



## fuzzwardo (Apr 17, 2014)

From what I have been told, I have a 1941 Schwinn Dx.   The coaster brake doesn't even begin to slow me down .   So can these be rebuilt?  If they can be rebuilt, how difficult and expensive will it be?  Should I start looking for a replacement?


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## fordmike65 (Apr 17, 2014)

What rear hub you got?


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## Euphman06 (Apr 18, 2014)

Bendix hubs are REAL easy... love them for that reason. Expensive? Doesn't cost a bit if no parts are ruined on the inside. All you would need is the bearing grease. Most hub parts you can find cheap through the resources on this site.


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## fuzzwardo (Apr 18, 2014)

Sorry guys but I am clueless on the model of the hub.   From doing a google search,it looks like the pictures online of a New Departure.  It does have New Departure stamped into the brake arm.


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## jkent (Apr 18, 2014)

It should have a stamping on the center of the Hub shell. 
More than likely it is a New Departure Model D 
I had the same issue with that hub on my 1955 Hornet and I took it apart, Nothing was ruined, just caked up with hard grease.
I cleaned everything with Diesel fuel and re-greased everything and put it back together and it works like a new hub. It will lock the rear wheel up braking with no problem now.
You van disassemble the hub with out taking the hub off the wheel.  
Jkent


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## fuzzwardo (Apr 18, 2014)

Thanks jkent.   Its been forever since I have disassembled a coaster brake, I think about 30 years ago on a Huffy, but  I can't find a breakdown on  the web.  Any good sources?


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## jpromo (Apr 18, 2014)

If it is a New Departure then here's a good summation: http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-departure-model-d-rebuild.30484/

The important thing about a model D is to use oil only on the brake discs but grease in the bearings and other internal components. ND is one of the great coaster brakes and with a little love, should make a smooth riding, smooth braking bike for you. While you've got the wheel off and have bearings soaking, go through the bottom bracket with new grease as well. You wouldn't drive a car without oil, bikes are the same way.


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## fat tire trader (Apr 18, 2014)

Fuzzwardo,
Its nice to see that you migrated to the cabe. 
Like the guys above said, you probably just need to overhaul your hub. While it is apart, inspect all of the parts, especially the bearing surfaces for ware. As a general rule, I clean and grease all of the bearings on a bicycle before I ride it. Some old parts are hard to find, and riding them without cleaning and greasing first can cause damage.
Chris


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## jkent (Apr 18, 2014)

Sorry forgot to mention the use of oil on the discs and not grease.
Thanks, JKent


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## fuzzwardo (Apr 19, 2014)

Thanks guys, hoping to find  a little time over the next couple of days to check out the guts of the hub.

 Fat Tire Trader ....Thanks for introducing me to this forum.


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## TammyN (Apr 20, 2014)

Take photos as you go. I did my first one recently, and it was a nightmare to get back together. It turned out that I was trying to put the stack of disks into the wrong side of the hub. The second one went together much easier. 2Jakes shared a helpful diagram with me, and I can't find that post right now but it might have been the same as this one:








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## greenephantom (Apr 20, 2014)

Be sure to check the clutch spring (part #12 above) for undue wear. The tab piece on these wears until it gets paper thin and fails. The New Dep hubs are dead easy to overhaul, the only tricky part being getting the brake disc stack back into the hub, but if you take your time getting them lined up nicely they will often slide home on the first try.

Not sure if the previous link discusses final adjustment on these hubs, but what you want is for the outer locknuts to be tight, and for there to be free movement in the hub but with no end play. May take a time or two to get it spot-on.

Cheers, Geoff


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## fuzzwardo (Apr 21, 2014)

I just got done with tear down.  Yuck!!.  I am sure that it has never been taken apart before.  I have to say that the diagrams and advice you guys gave was spot on and I thank you for it.
 The grease was pretty baked so it is gonna be a chore to get it cleaned off.   What do you recommended for a solvent?   I'll probably wait til tomorrow to start cleaning.


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## bricycle (Apr 21, 2014)

May be too late this time, but put land lotion on your hands first, let dry, then grease will come off you hands easier when cleansing.

ps; not all N/D hubs are marked. I have seen 2 that were sans any script.


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## TammyN (Apr 21, 2014)

I use LA's Totally Awesome Orange Degreaser from Dollar tree, on the recommendation of other CABERs. It's cheap and non-flammable  You might have to do a little scrubbing with a stiff brush after soaking. You will want to rough up the metal disks a little with sandpaper. I second the lotion.


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## 2jakes (Apr 21, 2014)

fuzzwardo said:


> I just got done with tear down.  Yuck!!.  I am sure that it has never been taken apart before.  I have to say that the diagrams and advice you guys gave was spot on and I thank you for it.
> The grease was pretty baked so it is gonna be a chore to get it cleaned off.   What do you recommended for a solvent?   I'll probably wait til tomorrow to start cleaning.




Soak for a long time the parts that the grease is "baked on". 
It will be easier to remove the crud & if possible wear some gloves.

I just finished removing engine parts from my '39 Ford. The combination of WD-40, oil, gas,
radiator fluid combine with tiny nicks from wrestling with rusted nuts & bolts
have left my paws raw.
But the end results will be worth it.


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## fuzzwardo (Apr 23, 2014)

Took all of you guys advice and it works great!!!!   It was 10 times easier than I thought it would be, not one bit of frustration or a single cuss word.    Thanks for the help and diagrams.  Well played .


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## bricycle (Apr 23, 2014)

coaster brake is horrible .... actually he's a really neat Guy! (member)


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## jd56 (Apr 23, 2014)

TammyN said:


> Take photos as you go. I did my first one recently, and it was a nightmare to get back together. It turned out that I was trying to put the stack of disks into the wrong side of the hub. The second one went together much easier. 2Jakes shared a helpful diagram with me, and I can't find that post right now but it might have been the same as this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I used to take pics as I went through the breakdown process....but soon got confident enough and cockey to rely on my memory. ...which isn't what it used to be by they way...
Anyway the model d has never really given me a problem till recently.
Working on servicing the 38 Hawthorne and the rear hub.....duh...and realized the diagram above indicates 23 discs. Mine had 26.
I removed one because it had one too many steel disc's vs the copper (?, could be brass I guess) discs.
But now even after removing the one I have too many and the shaft doesn't protrude so the clutch ring is able to fit onto.
What am I doing wrong?
Should it always very 23 discs...no more no less?
I'm stumped.
I have never counted the number of discs on the other ND hubs I've serviced so I don't know what is correct. 

Thanks in advance.


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Apr 23, 2014)

Many past threads about disks
Just search model d disk count or the like.....
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## jd56 (Apr 23, 2014)

19 was mentioned on this one...everyone agree?

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...ture-versus-Bendix/page2&highlight=disc+count


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Apr 23, 2014)

jd56 said:


> 19 was mentioned on this one...everyone agree?
> 
> http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...ture-versus-Bendix/page2&highlight=disc+count




Start with steel end with steel. .. prewar disks are thicker .. my 39 uses the thick and my 42 uses thin.. if I remember right should be 3/4" stack height.  Can't remember. You can bench test it without hub shell on bike and see if everything is moving properly. . 

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