# How do you clean out the rust inside the frame without removing the rust on the outside the frame?



## Bike from the Dead (Jul 25, 2022)

I've got this 1961 Murray Meteor Flite I'm building as a rat rod bike, and while it's coming along nicely, there's one problem I noticed between the time I mocked it up, and the time I disassembled it.





See, when I installed the new bearings and bearing cups to test fit everything, they were all nice and clean, but when I removed them to clean them and grease them, they had turned brown with rust and sediment that was still inside the frame.










What I want to know is how to get rid of all or most of the rust, dust, dirt and debris inside the frame, without messing up the exterior look of the bike. I'm not stripping this bike down and painting it. I'm not even going to clear it or cover it in boiled linseed oil. I want to leave the bike looking as it is. I just want to remove as much of the interior rust and dust as best as I can, so it doesn't find its way inside the bearings after reassembly. Are there any good, inexpensive ways to go about this? Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## 49autocycledeluxe (Jul 25, 2022)

I would not worry about it, but if I was I'd blow compressed air through the tubes to remove the loose stuff. then I would pour POR 15 into the tubes and swoosh it around until it covers the insides.

*POR15* is made for *P*ainting *O*ver *R*ust. rust needs oxygen to grow, POR 15 encapsulates the rust and neuters it


----------



## Drosentreter (Jul 25, 2022)

Maybe a wire brush meant for the bore of a gun to knock the big stuff loose, then some air, then cleaner and POR?


----------



## Gimletbikes (Jul 25, 2022)

I have been curious about this, too. The POR 15 sounds like a fantastic suggestion. I happen to have 2 cans of unused framesaver on my shelf - would that do the trick, too? Or will it not neutralize the rust... only prevent rush on relatively fresh steel? (thanks for allowing me to intrude on this thread)


----------



## J-wagon (Jul 25, 2022)

Once greased it should not rust like that, but if sit dry invites rust


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Jul 25, 2022)

49autocycledeluxe said:


> I would not worry about it, but if I was I'd blow compressed air through the tubes to remove the loose stuff. then I would pour POR 15 into the tubes and swoosh it around until it covers the insides.
> 
> *POR15* is made for *P*ainting *O*ver *R*ust. rust needs oxygen to grow, POR 15 encapsulates the rust and neuters it





Drosentreter said:


> Maybe a wire brush meant for the bore of a gun to knock the big stuff loose, then some air, then cleaner and POR?



I do have an air compressor with a blow tip, maybe that could work. I also have some cylindrical wire brushes I got specifically for cleaning out parts of the bike like this. The only concern I have is getting them stuck inside the tube, as they're short and need a socket extender to get deep inside the seat tube. What kind of cleaner do you use, @Drosentreter? I've heard of POR15 from the VW guys, but I don't have any on hand. I might see about getting POR15, but do I need the full kit, or can I get away with just a small can of POR15 paint? I do have some sprayable rust inhibitor I haven't used yet. Would that work? I'm trying to save as much money as I can right now, and if I can avoid spending any, that'd be even sweeter.


----------



## Drosentreter (Jul 25, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> I do have an air compressor with a blow tip, maybe that could work. I also have some cylindrical wire brushes I got specifically for cleaning out parts of the bike like this. The only concern I have is getting them stuck inside the tube, as they're short and need a socket extender to get deep inside the seat tube. What kind of cleaner do you use, @Drosentreter? I've heard of POR15 from the VW guys, but I don't have any on hand. I might see about getting POR15, but do I need the full kit, or can I get away with just a small can of POR15 paint? I do have some sprayable rust inhibitor I haven't used yet. Would that work? I'm trying to save as much money as I can right now, and if I can avoid spending any, that'd be even sweeter.



I would also be concerned with the cylindrical brushes getting stuck with that set up… maybe try finding some with an attached wire handle?
As for cleaner I just mean thinner/surface cleaner. Cant really wipe down inside the tubes so a squirt bottle and a couple rags to catch it as it come out the bottom is about all you could do…


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Jul 25, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> I would also be concerned with the cylindrical brushes getting stuck with that set up… maybe try finding some with an attached wire handle?
> As for cleaner I just mean thinner/surface cleaner. Cant really wipe down inside the tubes so a squirt bottle and a couple rags to catch it as it come out the bottom is about all you could do…



I had a long brush with a wire handle, but I can't find it for some dumb reason. Maybe I could find another one at Lowes or Home Depot. 

You mean paint thinner, like acetone? I'm not sure what you mean.


----------



## Drosentreter (Jul 25, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> I had a long brush with a wire handle, but I can't find it for some dumb reason. Maybe I could find another one at Lowes or Home Depot.
> 
> You mean paint thinner, like acetone? I'm not sure what you mean.



Like automotive paint thinner. Mixable paint thinner. Used to thin out paint when spraying through a spray gun…


----------



## BF2485 (Jul 25, 2022)

Evaporust ??


----------



## 1motime (Jul 25, 2022)

If you could find some rubber plugs the size of all open tubes. Plug all except one at  a time. Fill with acetone and let sit .  After doing let all tubes drain and blow compressed air. POR 15 is good idea. Just mask off or Plug tubes or it will get all over everything. Messy job but should seal all rust


----------



## Andrew Gorman (Jul 25, 2022)

I'd scrape out the worst with a piece of metal/Signode pallet strapping.  It's free, flexible and tough.  Try to shape the end a little bit to match the tube curvature, and maybe tape a section of 1/4" rod or an old bolt a little bit downstream of the end to stiffen it up. I think I might have done this once but the memory is dim.  It's so hard to remember anymore... The longest "bottle brush" like things I've seen are for cleaning refrigerator condenser coils, but they are  usually plastic, not wire:


			refrigerator condenser brush wire - Google Search
		

Chuck it into a drill to speed things up.


----------



## Kombicol (Jul 25, 2022)

I would just do the same as you plan for the outside 
Spray BLO or pull a rag soaked in it through the tubes
Once dry it will hold the crust in place


----------



## 62typhoon (Jul 25, 2022)

Seems strange they would rerust after a coating of grease?


----------



## Lamont (Jul 25, 2022)

I agree with the idea that once you get the big stuff out , not to worry about it 

There is a product used on road bike frames , for this purpose , Frame Saver I think its called .   
you basically have to cover up all the frame openings and spray it in and tip / turn the frame to get it to cover inside tubes.

Other obsessive compulsive road bike guys with steel frames , that dont want to pay for the Frame Saver product ,   do the same : seal the openings and instead pour ATF inside , then turn / tip the frame rotisserie style to get the fluid to coat everywhere. 

If you use either , though you might want to test patch what happens if excess gets on the outside .... might end up staining your perfectly rusted exterior. 


Personally,  I agree with the idea that once you get the big stuff out , not to worry about it, grease the BB shell interior and seat tube where the post sits and ride on should be fine.


----------



## eeapo (Jul 27, 2022)

Try these can be purchased at any hardware store.


----------



## Gimletbikes (Jul 27, 2022)

eeapo said:


> Try these can be purchased at any hardware store.
> 
> View attachment 1670428



These are especially helpful around that rear, inside dropout area, inside those puckered tubes


----------



## 1motime (Jul 28, 2022)

eeapo said:


> Try these can be purchased at any hardware store.
> 
> View attachment 1670428



I thought he was trying to get inside the entire frame?


----------



## Princeton (Jul 28, 2022)

Waxoyl…this stuff is great…you can easily make your own and get creative with the application…                https://www.waxoyl-usa.com/


----------



## Houndsworth (Aug 1, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> I've got this 1961 Murray Meteor Flite I'm building as a rat rod bike, and while it's coming along nicely, there's one problem I noticed between the time I mocked it up, and the time I disassembled it.
> View attachment 1668862
> 
> See, when I installed the new bearings and bearing cups to test fit everything, they were all nice and clean, but when I removed them to clean them and grease them, they had turned brown with rust and sediment that was still inside the frame.
> ...



You asked about removing rust from inside the frame, then said you want to do that "so it doesn't find its way inside the bearings after reassembly." Not positive, but I don't believe rust spreads out like a skin cancer. I think rust will occur anywhere on carbon and alloy steel (not stainless steel) if it is not protected from the water vapor in the air. Protection for steel comes from oil, grease, paint, or plating with certain metals. In the case of your bearings - grease them. If there is rust in the tube near the bearings but the rust-free bearings are lubed, should be no problem for them.

But if you are concerned with rust-through in the tubes over time (probably a LONG time), then do the POR15 treatment or if no budget for that, pour some heavy automotive gear oil like 140 weight or 85W-140 into the tubes and rotate the frame so it hits all areas then let it drain. A film of oil should remain on the rust and prevent it from increasing or at least delay it for a few decades. POR15 is a better idea.


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 1, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> I do have an air compressor with a blow tip, maybe that could work. I also have some cylindrical wire brushes I got specifically for cleaning out parts of the bike like this. The only concern I have is getting them stuck inside the tube, as they're short and need a socket extender to get deep inside the seat tube. What kind of cleaner do you use, @Drosentreter? I've heard of POR15 from the VW guys, but I don't have any on hand. I might see about getting POR15, but do I need the full kit, or can I get away with just a small can of POR15 paint? I do have some sprayable rust inhibitor I haven't used yet. Would that work? I'm trying to save as much money as I can right now, and if I can avoid spending any, that'd be even sweeter.



Take the wire brushes and get as much of the rust as possible and spray some WD40 down the tubes and that should take care of your problem Austin... Good luck...


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 1, 2022)

Okay first off, sorry for the delay in replies. The past week has been... nuts. Second, thank you all for the replies with various tips and tricks to slow/stop/remove the rust inside my frame. Based on your advice, I think what I'll do is get a fridge coil brush to clean up the seat tube as best as I can, then use some of my brass wire brushes and a drill to try and clean up the bottom bracket and headset as best as I can. I'll then use my air compressor to blow out whatever dust and debris I can. I know a lot of people recommended plugging the frame and pouring POR15 into the frame, and I definitely want to try that at some point, but I think I'll try using used ATF instead. I already have some in stock, since I was mixing it with acetone to make a rust-busting solution for use on another, even rustier bike. Once I'm in a better financial position, I'll definitely look into POR15, but right now, I'll just make do with what I have.

For those who were wondering how the bearings rusted up, my guess is that there's so much rust chunks and dust inside the frame, that just moving the bike around as much as I did allowed that junk to work its way inside the bearing cups from the inside. It looks like there's enough space between all the parts for it to do that, at least from what I can tell. Plus, the rust just wiped off the bearing cups and bearings, so it was really getting stuck to the grease, what little was on everything at the time.

One last question: how do you suggest I plug up the frame? I could probably make do with duct/gorilla tape, if I could use a hair dryer or heat gun to peel it off cleanly, but I don't know if there are any other alternatives. Any suggestions for that?


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 1, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> Okay first off, sorry for the delay in replies. The past week has been... nuts. Second, thank you all for the replies with various tips and tricks to slow/stop/remove the rust inside my frame. Based on your advice, I think what I'll do is get a fridge coil brush to clean up the seat tube as best as I can, then use some of my brass wire brushes and a drill to try and clean up the bottom bracket and headset as best as I can. I'll then use my air compressor to blow out whatever dust and debris I can. I know a lot of people recommended plugging the frame and pouring POR15 into the frame, and I definitely want to try that at some point, but I think I'll try using used ATF instead. I already have some in stock, since I was mixing it with acetone to make a rust-busting solution for use on another, even rustier bike. Once I'm in a better financial position, I'll definitely look into POR15, but right now, I'll just make do with what I have.
> 
> For those who were wondering how the bearings rusted up, my guess is that there's so much rust chunks and dust inside the frame, that just moving the bike around as much as I did allowed that junk to work its way inside the bearing cups from the inside. It looks like there's enough space between all the parts for it to do that, at least from what I can tell. Plus, the rust just wiped off the bearing cups and bearings, so it was really getting stuck to the grease, what little was on everything at the time.
> 
> One last question: how do you suggest I plug up the frame? I could probably make do with duct/gorilla tape, if I could use a hair dryer or heat gun to peel it off cleanly, but I don't know if there are any other alternatives. Any suggestions for that?



Got any cork top or wine bottles or rubber stoppers work really well.. Good luck Austin...


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 1, 2022)

razinhellcustomz said:


> Got any cork top or wine bottles or rubber stoppers work really well.. Good luck Austin...



My Dad has some rubber plugs he uses for powder coating. Those might work...

Thanks!


----------



## AndyA (Aug 2, 2022)

How about spraying WD-40 inside the frame?

The manufacturer says "While the 'W-D' in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal."


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 2, 2022)

AndyA said:


> How about spraying WD-40 inside the frame?
> 
> The manufacturer says "While the 'W-D' in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal."



The main ingredient of WD-40 is fish oil.. I even use it on my hands and fingers fot my arthritis....


----------



## rustjunkie (Aug 2, 2022)

razinhellcustomz said:


> The main ingredient of WD-40 is fish oil.. I even use it on my hands and fingers fot my arthritis....








						WD-40 Myths & Fun Facts | Facts About WD-40 Products | WD-40
					

There are many myths and fun facts about WD-40 uses and history. Learn more about WD-40 and how millions have used it as a lubricant, engine degreaser, rust removal product, corrosion inhibitor and more. Find out more about creative and effective uses of WD-40 at our official website.




					www.wd40.com
				






			WD-40: Does it Really Contain Fish Oil?


----------



## Kickstand3 (Aug 2, 2022)

razinhellcustomz said:


> The main ingredient of WD-40 is fish oil.. I even use it on my hands and fingers fot my arthritis....



Wow I have a tea spoon every night 😵‍💫


----------



## SirMike1983 (Aug 3, 2022)

Lamont said:


> I agree with the idea that once you get the big stuff out , not to worry about it
> 
> There is a product used on road bike frames , for this purpose , Frame Saver I think its called .
> you basically have to cover up all the frame openings and spray it in and tip / turn the frame to get it to cover inside tubes.
> ...




I think this is good advice. Most of the time the concern about rust inside the frame is overblown. Frames can certainly develop surface rust inside, but the amount of rust in a frame not exposed to internal water will generally be small. Frame Saver has become the de facto standard for those who really want to coat the interior of a whole frame. It's usually guys with high-end, older steel road bikes. I wouldn't worry about a bike with no signs of water entrapment, but I would certainly take a closer look if the frame shows signs that it had water in it (look to the low points on the frame). If it makes you feel better, do the Frame Saver thing inside the tubes. But based on air alone, and with reasonable storage, it would generally take several lifetimes to rust through these older, heavy steel frames.

All of the heavier weight, steel frames I've seen that rotted from the inside had substantial water entrapment for significant periods of time. If the water freezes, it will split the frame at a low point, often around the bottom bracket or back in the chain stays. If you see signs of water entrapment, then a closer inspection is needed. One option for cleaning is a cable-driven brush that connects to your bench grinder's take-off. After cleaning the particular area subject to water, you can spray in Frame Saver.


----------



## Lamont (Aug 3, 2022)

local hardware store with a good nuts and bolts aisle wil have selection of size stoppers 

or 

online at widgetco


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 3, 2022)

Lamont said:


> local hardware store with a good nuts and bolts aisle wil have selection of size stoppers
> 
> or
> 
> ...



Austin's  dad runs a powder coating business so he probably has what he needs... Good to know....


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 9, 2022)

One more question related to this bike project: I loaded all the bearings, cups and coaster brake parts for this bike into my ultrasonic cleaner to see if it'd all fit, and amazingly, I could still fit a ton more small parts in this thing! However, since I've never used this before, I have to ask: is this too much to try and clean at once? All the tutorials I've seen for these devices only show folks cleaning a single bike chain and maybe a few cassette gears in these things. I really want to get as much clean as possible, but I'd like to avoid damaging anything if I can help it.


----------



## 1motime (Aug 9, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> One more question related to this bike project: I loaded all the bearings, cups and coaster brake parts for this bike into my ultrasonic cleaner to see if it'd all fit, and amazingly, I could still fit a ton more small parts in this thing! However, since I've never used this before, I have to ask: is this too much to try and clean at once? All the tutorials I've seen for these devices only show folks cleaning a single bike chain and maybe a few cassette gears in these things. I really want to get as much clean as possible, but I'd like to avoid damaging anything if I can help it.
> View attachment 1677333



If there is no strong shaking with machine it should be good. Try and if you hear a lot of banging pull a few out.  If you have to do a couple of batches still better than scrubbing by hand


----------



## morton (Aug 10, 2022)

I've used brake cylinder hones and gun cleaning brushes to remove rust from inside of metal tubes.  Gun cleaning kits have various size brushes and long handle attachments.  Attach the brush to the rod and work manually, or attach to a drill so rust clean out can be quick and easy.  After removing the brush, I attached one of the "swabs" from the kit and saturated it with some stuff that turns rust black and was able to "paint" the inside of the tube very easily.

The brush may not be a perfect fit and you may need to go from side to side as you move it up and down.


----------



## SirMike1983 (Aug 10, 2022)

I would break up those parts into several wash loads, grouping related parts together. Ideally you have a single layer of parts in the basket, not touching the sides or bottom of the tub. Go one load at a time, cleaning each completely before moving to the next load, and changing the water as needed.


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 10, 2022)

SirMike1983 said:


> I would break up those parts into several wash loads, grouping related parts together. Ideally you have a single layer of parts in the basket, not touching the sides or bottom of the tub. Go one load at a time, cleaning each completely before moving to the next load, and changing the water as needed.



My buddy has one of these and he uses solvent or kerosene as using water would promote rust after their clean.. To each his own I guess..


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 11, 2022)

Okay, before I start plugging up the bike frame and filling it with ATF, which I understand "catches on fire _good_," should I be worried at all about this small crack in one of the seat stays? Looks like the result of freeze damage, but I don't know. I know some folks who could weld this back up, but is it really necessary?


----------



## Drosentreter (Aug 11, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> Okay, before I start plugging up the bike frame and filling it with ATF, which I understand "catches on fire _good_," should I be worried at all about this small crack in one of the seat stays? Looks like the result of freeze damage, but I don't know. I know some folks who could weld this back up, but is it really necessary?
> View attachment 1678076



That is a little questionable, but I will say that ATF is only flammable under high heat conditions. So no. You can’t just light it with a lighter. It takes some heating to get it to start.


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 11, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> That is a little questionable, but I will say that ATF is only flammable under high heat conditions. So no. You can’t just light it with a lighter. It takes some heating to get it to start.



Well, I can't say I have any experience with ATF catching fire, but I can say summer temperatures regularly exceed 100+ degrees here in Oklahoma. I'm not so concerned with the ATF catching fire after building my bike, rather I'm more worried about the structural integrity of the frame due to the small crack, and want to know if I should patch it up before doing the ATF step.


----------



## Drosentreter (Aug 11, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> Well, I can't say I have any experience with ATF catching fire, but I can say summer temperatures regularly exceed 100+ degrees here in Oklahoma. I'm not so concerned with the ATF catching fire after building my bike, rather I'm more worried about the structural integrity of the frame due to the small crack, and want to know if I should patch it up before doing the ATF step.



I’m not sure. Maybe a picture less close up would help to base the damage on location?


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 11, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> I’m not sure. Maybe a picture less close up would help to base the damage on location?



Give me a moment. I'll try and get more photos.


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 11, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> Okay, before I start plugging up the bike frame and filling it with ATF, which I understand "catches on fire _good_," should I be worried at all about this small crack in one of the seat stays? Looks like the result of freeze damage, but I don't know. I know some folks who could weld this back up, but is it really necessary?
> View attachment 1678076



As far as the crack goes, it would not hurt to JB weld that and for the atf is far to messy as it will stain the patina if you get it on the painted parts.. Take my advice and just spray some WD40 down the tubes and forget about it.. You can thank me later.. Good luck Austin...


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 11, 2022)

This help? That crack is only about 1cm long, so it's not too big, but it is in a spot I'm not so sure is able to handle the stress.


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 11, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> This help? That crack is only about 1cm long, so it's not too big, but it is in a spot I'm not so sure is able to handle the stress.
> View attachment 1678091View attachment 1678092



Jb weld it up and forget about it....


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 11, 2022)

razinhellcustomz said:


> Jb weld it up and forget about it....



Is JB Weld as sturdy as a regular weld?


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 11, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> Is JB Weld as sturdy as a regular weld?



Yes it is. Probably more than strong enough for the job.. After it cures you can even grind or file smooth and you can even paint over it...


----------



## Drosentreter (Aug 11, 2022)

I would have someone weld it. I myself don’t trust JB that much. And given past accidents I have seen I would not ignore it. Have it welded and your worries will be gone.


----------



## SirMike1983 (Aug 11, 2022)

Check the condition of the tube wall around that crack. Make sure there is still enough meat around the crack for a repair. If the tube wall crumbles away around the crack, you have a real problem. The combination of additional rust and a crack indicate possible water entrapment. If the stay wall is thick enough still around the crack, I would clean it up and braze or weld it.


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 11, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> I would have someone weld it. I myself don’t trust JB that much. And given past accidents I have seen I would not ignore it. Have it welded and your worries will be gone.



That's what I'd rather do. No offense to those who use it, but I don't always hear the best things about JB Weld repairs. I'll see if one of my friends can weld it back together.


SirMike1983 said:


> Check the condition of the tube wall around that crack. Make sure there is still enough meat around the crack for a repair. If the tube wall crumbles away around the crack, you have a real problem. The combination of additional rust and a crack indicate possible water entrapment. If the stay wall is thick enough still around the crack, I would clean it up and braze or weld it.



I think there's enough meat around the crack for a weld repair. It doesn't crumble at all, so it's still quite solid. I'm pretty sure it's a case of water freezing inside the frame at one point, as I've see this sort of damage on other bikes before. I'll reach out to one of my local friends to see if they can weld it for me. I'd really like to save this bike if I can.


----------



## razinhellcustomz (Aug 11, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> That's what I'd rather do. No offense to those who use it, but I don't always hear the best things about JB Weld repairs. I'll see if one of my friends can weld it back together.
> 
> I think there's enough meat around the crack for a weld repair. It doesn't crumble at all, so it's still quite solid. I'm pretty sure it's a case of water freezing inside the frame at one point, as I've see this sort of damage on other bikes before. I'll reach out to one of my local friends to see if they can weld it for me. I'd really like to save this bike if I can.



Yeah, just make sure the weld is done properly unlike your buddy who did your fork half way  and you end up with a broken frame and back....


----------



## Drosentreter (Aug 11, 2022)

razinhellcustomz said:


> Yeah, just make sure the weld is done properly unlike your buddy who did your fork half way  and you end up with a broken frame and back....



I was just thinking of that myself. Hopefully better luck with this repair!


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 15, 2022)

Okay, one more inquiry: I'm getting ready to rebuild at least a couple Komet Super hubs, but I want to be as thorough as reasonably possible when it comes to cleaning and regreasing the parts. According to the Schwinn service manual, I don't have to take this dust cap off unless there's any sign of damage or whatever, but given how old and dirty everything is, I couldn't make a fair assessment of damage. So, I took the dust cap off 2 Komet hubs with a screwdriver, as the service manual said to do. However, doing so bent the dust caps a bit. I figure I might be able to tweak them back into shape, but I don't know. I chose not to remove the dust cap on a third hub, just in case I could clean out all the gunk using my ultrasonic cleaner. 





Was it a bad idea to remove the dust caps to get to this bearing on the hubs, and can I reuse the dust cap afterwards if it turns out it's fine? Can I repair this part, and how? Or would it be better to replace it?


----------



## Drosentreter (Aug 15, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> Okay, one more inquiry: I'm getting ready to rebuild at least a couple Komet Super hubs, but I want to be as thorough as reasonably possible when it comes to cleaning and regreasing the parts. According to the Schwinn service manual, I don't have to take this dust cap off unless there's any sign of damage or whatever, but given how old and dirty everything is, I couldn't make a fair assessment of damage. So, I took the dust cap off 2 Komet hubs with a screwdriver, as the service manual said to do. However, doing so bent the dust caps a bit. I figure I might be able to tweak them back into shape, but I don't know. I chose not to remove the dust cap on a third hub, just in case I could clean out all the gunk using my ultrasonic cleaner.
> View attachment 1680121
> 
> Was it a bad idea to remove the dust caps to get to this bearing on the hubs, and can I reuse the dust cap afterwards if it turns out it's fine? Can I repair this part, and how? Or would it be better to replace it?
> View attachment 1680122



I myself have never rebuilt a Komet hub, but I can’t imagine it’s much different from others. Beings it’s just a dust cap I would think you’d be fine just to straighten it and install it as long as it still feels like it fits tight.


----------



## Andrew Gorman (Aug 15, 2022)

It's thin sheet metal- it will kinda sorta form in place as it is put back on. Be gentle with it, and make sure no edges have folded back on themselves.  Light rubber mallet taps and constantly check that it is going on straight.


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Aug 20, 2022)

Ok guys, I managed to get that crack welded and seal up my frame and run some ATF through it. Pretty happy with the result. I'm now on the reassembly portion of the build. I got the front wheel hub rebuilt, and it's spinning nicely, but I'm stuck on the Komet Super coaster brake hub. I've been using my ultrasonic cleaner to clean my parts, but as nice as the ultrasonic cleaner is, it's not flawless. Sometimes I get more grease and gunk off of my parts using wire brushes, the "Jet" setting on the garden hose attachment, microfiber cloths and the air compressor than I do with the USC. These Komet coaster brake parts still have some junk on them after a few heated cycles in the cleaner. But that's not my biggest concern.




After drying everything off, I couldn't help but notice a few wear marks on the parts. And in some spots, there's this fine, metallic, grainy texture that I can't tell whether it's residual grease, patina, or wear marks. What I want to know is:
1. Are these parts still good, and 
2. Can/Should I use the brass wire brush wheel on my dad's grinder to clean these up like I did the axles? 3. Also, would it be bad if there's still a little bit of old grease in the bearings when I pack them with new grease? Some of this stuff does not want to come out of the bearings. I really want to get this bike rolling again, and I'd really love to learn how to rebuilt one of these Komet Super coaster brakes while I'm at it.







I could really use your help here. If I can get this hub rebuilt with the parts I've got, then all I need to do is true the wheels, and I can make my bike rideable.


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Sep 18, 2022)

This bike is done! Thanks for all your help guys! Got the frame welded and coated with ATF on the inside, and I got the coaster brake working well enough for gentle cruising. Couldn't have done it without you guys! For more photos and the full story on this bike, check out the build thread here.


----------



## 1motime (Sep 18, 2022)

Looks great!  Well done!


----------



## Bike from the Dead (Sep 18, 2022)

1motime said:


> Looks great!  Well done!



Thanks!


----------



## Goldenrod (Sep 18, 2022)

These guys are wrong.  I have done this several times.  First you find a baby wombat in Australia.  You need one that is still blind.  You grease it up and yell, "Go find Mama", as you poke its pointy little head inside a tube.  This must be repeated until all the tubes are clean.  I lock myself in the bathroom and make moaning noises to cover the excited chirping.  My long-suffering wife, Poor Mary, never caught on when she broke down each of the doors because there is no woman, just a frame with clean tubes and a teetering marriage.


----------



## Goldenrod (Sep 18, 2022)

rustjunkie said:


> WD-40 Myths & Fun Facts | Facts About WD-40 Products | WD-40
> 
> 
> There are many myths and fun facts about WD-40 uses and history. Learn more about WD-40 and how millions have used it as a lubricant, engine degreaser, rust removal product, corrosion inhibitor and more. Find out more about creative and effective uses of WD-40 at our official website.
> ...



Warning:  This product is not recommened for use as a recreational lubricant.  My wife has escaped every time.


----------



## NormP (Oct 3, 2022)

Fluid film


----------



## mike cates (Nov 9, 2022)

Evap O Rust found in 1 gallon bottles at Harbor Freight or other outlets would be my choice after manually getting out as much rust in the hollow parts as possible. Once the Evap O Rust has done it's job over a couple of days, you pour it out and it is a biodegradeable product. Hang the parts to let them dry out naturally or by using an air compressor or by sticking a hose down in the tubes and blowing air from your mouth (sounds gross but we bike people are resourceful and are our own air compressor when in a pinch!).
Then the suggestion of the POR 15 would be good and let it dry.
Next step (if restoring) would be to prep the frame with primer, sand and paint it.
Lastly you can pour a liquid rust inhibitor in the open frame tubes but if you want to save the outer patina rust look, be careful not to let it get on the frame you want to save as it will inhibit rust in visually seen areas.
Kerosene is also a trick VW painters use after painting the inner cavities of the rear air scoops on a van or other hard to reach parts that can't get prepped easily. They use a spray bottle to get the kerosene back into those spots and it will wick it's way into the tightest joints and will protect the metal from rusting and not hurt the paint
I've even put some of those tiny bags of silica you get with products sent through the mail in the seat tube to keep things dry in enclosed areas.
Just some thoughts.
Mike Cates, CA.


----------



## Axlerod (Nov 9, 2022)

You could try a soft faced hammer or a hammer and wood block. Tap the opening of the bottom bracket, head tube, and seat tube. That would knock loose rust free and then blow it out with a compressor. The only problem with using POR 15 or any other chemical treatment is keeping it contained inside the frame. You just ruined your patina if any of it gets on the outside of the frame.


----------



## Two Wheeler (Nov 9, 2022)

Bike from the Dead said:


> I do have an air compressor with a blow tip, maybe that could work. I also have some cylindrical wire brushes I got specifically for cleaning out parts of the bike like this. The only concern I have is getting them stuck inside the tube, as they're short and need a socket extender to get deep inside the seat tube. What kind of cleaner do you use, @Drosentreter? I've heard of POR15 from the VW guys, but I don't have any on hand. I might see about getting POR15, but do I need the full kit, or can I get away with just a small can of POR15 paint? I do have some sprayable rust inhibitor I haven't used yet. Would that work? I'm trying to save as much money as I can right now, and if I can avoid spending any, that'd be even


----------



## Outskirtscustoms (Nov 18, 2022)

Find some fogging oil at your local auto parts store and spray inside the tubes of the frame this will cost everything and keep it from rusting further.


----------



## Axlerod (Nov 23, 2022)

I just saw a video of this stuff being used. You can reach everywhere with the attachments. It’s pretty expensive but another option. Amazon has some knock off brands but I be never used any of it.


----------

