# Handlebar Comfort



## wrongway (Dec 1, 2021)

I have this 1978 Raleigh Super Grand Prix that I can't seem to be comfortable on. I'm putting too much weight on my hands and within a minute I can feel the pain. Why? The saddle is as high as it needs to be, I assume. The handlebar stem is as high as it can be. I have moved the saddle forward and backward. Nothing helps. Thoughts? How can I keep weight off my hands?


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## Schwinny (Dec 1, 2021)

Its a problem many of us have as we get older. I can't ride drop bars anymore at all and Im not quite 60.
I just add long stems and riser tourist bars to get my hands more level with my heart.


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## Freqman1 (Dec 1, 2021)

Flip the bars and ride upright?


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## juvela (Dec 1, 2021)

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if you need to rotate the bar that far upward in an effort to get comfortable it would probably be best to change to some pattern of upright bar


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## wrongway (Dec 1, 2021)

I'm 50 this year.....is that my problem...? lol I have two other drop bar bikes that I can ride a bit more comfortably, but I like this one, too.


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## juvela (Dec 1, 2021)

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one experiment you may wish to consider would be a shorter extension

what is on there looks like a ten or an eleven; you could try and eight and see how that feels

please be careful not to raise it above the minimum insertion mark for safety


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## J-wagon (Dec 1, 2021)

Perhaps a shorter stem. Even 20mm shorter reach can make a difference in weight distribution.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 1, 2021)

I'd try a stem with a reduced forward reach - that one sets the bars quite far forward and may cause you to overextend onto the hands and arms. If a more compact stem does not work, I'd consider flat (French style) or upright (English style) bars.


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## vincev (Dec 1, 2021)

Ihave some road bikes and one just didnt feel right.I changed to bars to riser bars [mountain bike] and was able to sit more upright .Problem solved.


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## Kickstand3 (Dec 1, 2021)

Looks like a long way down to me . At 60 that might be the end of the road


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 1, 2021)

at 61 I have done the following to my road and mountain bikes. I have done it twice now to my mountain bike. 

shorter stem. you are well on your way to old fart territory. no sense in doing it in steps as I did. find the stem with the shortest reach that will fit your bike.

taller handlebars, again, go all out and get a 3" rise at least. the deterioration of the human body between 50 and 60 is much more extreme than 40 - 50.

I put "mustache bars" on my 19 lb road bike I bought in 1992. now I can ride it for more than 10 miles.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 1, 2021)

do you have the seat up where you are at the optimum for efficient pedaling? your knee should be just slightly bent while pedaling.

is the bike the right size for you? standing flat footed on the pavement you should have an inch of clearance between the top bar of the frame and your "boys".


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## wrongway (Dec 2, 2021)

49autocycledeluxe said:


> do you have the seat up where you are at the optimum for efficient pedaling? your knee should be just slightly bent while pedaling.
> 
> is the bike the right size for you? standing flat footed on the pavement you should have an inch of clearance between the top bar of the frame and your "boys".



Yes to all that.


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## wrongway (Dec 2, 2021)

This one is a 1972 BSA 10 speed. I believe it is the same frame as a Raleigh Record of that year. Also the same frame, possibly, of a Raleigh Sports.




 I rode it this morning and it's much more comfortable. I'm not sure for how many miles, though. I've had it for awhile now. I rode it to work just now. It is comfortable riding it in the drops, actually. A shorter, more compact frame seems to help. I suppose?


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## J-wagon (Dec 2, 2021)

Your BSA has substantively shorter stem, consider similar for other bike fit


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## wrongway (Dec 2, 2021)

J-wagon said:


> Your BSA has substantively shorter stem, consider similar for other bike fit



I'll probably do that. I like the bike. It's a smooth ride and a great cheap commuter. I just can't understand why it makes a difference, but apparently it does.


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## dubsey55 (Dec 2, 2021)

The bars on the BSA have very good placement front to rear.  Try to get closer to that set-up with the bike thats causing you pain.  The  BSA looks great  by the way!!


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## wrongway (Dec 2, 2021)

dubsey55 said:


> The bars on the BSA have very good placement front to rear.  Try to get closer to that set-up with the bike thats causing you pain.  The  BSA looks great  by the way!!



Thanks!


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## Eric Amlie (Dec 3, 2021)

Another difference that I notice is the slightly nose up tilt of the saddle on the BSA.
I have to do this with all of my Brooks saddles. It makes a big difference in the riding comfort for me.
I'd try that with the Raleigh and see if it helps.
Agree with the others on the stem length though. If you're being "stretched out" it's going to put more weight on your hands.


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## jacob9795 (Dec 3, 2021)

I used to have this prob on my road bike. It went away when i changed the position of my hands on the bars every few minutes.....center, outer, and then the drops


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## dnc1 (Dec 6, 2021)

As has been stated by others above, you may need a shorter reach handlebar stem than the one currently fitted. 
Looking at the height position of the existing handlebar stem in relation to the current saddle height that is the only possible reason for your problem of too much weight being forced onto your hands/wrists. 
You shouldn't really feel too much weight at all on your hands/wrists, your core muscles should be coping with this ideally.
A simple physical comparison of that BSA in your second photo (using the wall behind  for reference).suggests that it is a slightly more compact frameset than the Raleigh. That fact, combined with the short stem reach accounts for all of that difference in comfort you're experiencing. 
I have a lot of bikes, but when you put them in a line they all look as if they are setup for different riders if you look at them purely in terms of saddle height/handlebar position; but if you get a tape measure out they're all setup to almost exactly the same measurements in terms of arm reach and saddle to pedal position- all because of  differing frame geometry, crank length, saddle position and stem/bars combinations.
As I get older (I'm 55) I learn from friends that they often reduce the reach of the stems they use in order to continue riding their bikes.
Most still ride drops and many are in their late 70's and early 80's, regularly riding 30 miles plus at a time.


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## Coalfield (Dec 8, 2021)

Unless you have specific physical limitations, the best solution is to build your core strength.


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## fatbike (Dec 8, 2021)

wrongway said:


> I'm 50 this year.....is that my problem...? lol I have two other drop bar bikes that I can ride a bit more comfortably, but I like this one, too.



Not conditioned with riding that way, I personally never really liked drop bars but also depends on the over all geometry of the bike. These type bars aIl use on my lightweights.


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## wrongway (Dec 22, 2021)

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I'm going to have to get a different stem for the one or collect more bikes like the BSA. I would love to find an old RRA from the 30's - 50's in my frame size.


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## corbettclassics (Dec 22, 2021)

I guess I feel "VERY FORTUNATE" since I'm in my 60's and still race/train with guys in their 20's that literally fly at crazy speeds!

** I think if you're set up properly then there should be no problem.  There are several books out there how to set yourself up properly on the bike. Once you find your comfort zone then you'll be ok.  All measurements of leg length, set back, reach etc should be the same for each bike.

Here's how I have my bikes set up with zero problems - ( photos attached of how I just came off a ride with each bike )

I ride the green Russian Track bike regularly as I do the red 70's Presto 6-Day bike.

My bikes are still set up 100% identical as when I raced in my 20's.  Maybe it's different though since I'm a track rider, but I do train on the road doing
about 40 - 60 miles each ride a few times a week on these bikes. ( and no ... I've never run a brake!! )


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## Goldenrod (Dec 22, 2021)

I always thought that curved racing bars are a dumb idea and I put touring bars on all my riding bikes.  I thought that all other bike riders who were using racing bars to not race were misguided until I read this post.  I don't mean to offend but common sense needs to shine somewhere.


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## corbettclassics (Dec 22, 2021)

Goldenrod said:


> I always thought that curved racing bars are a dumb idea and I put touring bars on all my riding bikes.  I thought that all other bike riders who were using racing bars to not race were misguided until I read this post.  I don't mean to offend but common sense needs to shine somewhere.



Not offended at all but like you ... I always thought touring bars were a dumb idea on a racing bike just like these "Fixie" guys like to do!  But I guess some people just have to ride with them though because of certain health issues which is a shame.  I know I would certainly ride straight bars if I had to do it to feel better.  It's just common sense for me to have my track bikes set up the way it works for me.  There are guys older than me that I'm riding with who still ride/race with dropped bars.

I don't think we'll ever see touring style bars on 6-Day bikes ( like I have ) in any real events though.

Here's great examples of dropped bars >> ( I have some awesome photos to share if you like )

"Goldenrod" - did you ever have a chance to race in competition ?? ( I always raced track events )


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## dnc1 (Dec 22, 2021)

corbettclassics said:


> I guess I feel "VERY FORTUNATE" since I'm in my 60's and still race/train with guys in their 20's that literally fly at crazy speeds!
> 
> ** I think if you're set up properly then there should be no problem.  There are several books out there how to set yourself up properly on the bike. Once you find your comfort zone then you'll be ok.  All measurements of leg length, set back, reach etc should be the same for each bike.
> 
> ...



Beautiful bicycles,  beautifully set up,  what a joy!


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## Eric Amlie (Dec 23, 2021)

Goldenrod said:


> I always thought that curved racing bars are a dumb idea and I put touring bars on all my riding bikes.  I thought that all other bike riders who were using racing bars to not race were misguided until I read this post.  I don't mean to offend but common sense needs to shine somewhere.



I very rarely ride in the drops(only when battling a head wind), but I prefer drop bars for the number of different hand positions that they offer.
When my hands get fatigued riding in one position I switch to a different position and am good to go for awhile. I probably switch hand positions every few minutes. You can't do that with a straight bar or tourist bar.


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## Goldenrod (Dec 23, 2021)

Eric Amlie said:


> I very rarely ride in the drops(only when battling a head wind), but I prefer drop bars for the number of different hand positions that they offer.
> When my hands get fatigued riding in one position I switch to a different position and am good to go for awhile. I probably switch hand positions every few minutes. You can't do that with a straight bar or tourist bar.




I added those forearm rests that point forward.  I don't ride fast and usually only a Schwinn Le Tour.


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## HBSyncro (Dec 23, 2021)

Seat angle.  Someone already mentioned it.  With the nose slightly down you will be "going over the bars".  Start level (with a level) and increase nose up slightly.  Check the level on your brooks saddle.  I would also swap the brooks to this bike and see how it feels first.  If you dare, do the no hands test while in riding position.


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## TWDay (Dec 23, 2021)

Buy a cruiser. You aren't young enough for a sportscar any more.  LOL. Just kidding. I have the same problem. 63 years old and I'm tired of leaning over to ride a bike. The only reason for leaning over on a bike in the first place is to be more aerodynamic. Now I'm not saying you and I are old. I just prefer riding a Harley instead of a crotch rocket. And it allows me to tour and see the sights rather than kinking my neck so I don't look at the handlebar stem while I'm riding.


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## TWDay (Dec 23, 2021)

Also look at the geometry of your frame in relationship to the seat position, crank position and handlebar position. It is designed for speed. For racing. Its a racing bike, not a touring bike. Its compact frame geometry is designed to make your body work at its best for power. But you are not wanting that, you are wanting a relaxed ride. On a bike, YOU are the engine. And just like a car, differently configured engines for different types of cars.


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## philthewrench (Jan 12, 2022)

There is a lot that goes into proper road bike fit, though there is not "one true way" that works in all cases. Judging from the height of your saddle, it's possible this frame is just a little too large for you to begin with. The top tube length would then be too long for an ideal setup, and a long stem only compounds the problem. As others have suggested, shortening the stem might help, but some advice from an experienced fitter could be worthwhile. And age is not necessarily a factor at all here. I'm 62, and still riding "racing" bikes. As road bikes go, your Super Gran Prix is not exactly a racing design either. Hope that's helpful.


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