# Is there a Western Flyer guru in the house?



## BLASTER (May 28, 2008)

Howdy!
A nice guy over at Rat Rod Bikes (where I'm also a newb) suggested I try The CABE for a Western Flyer guru to find out info on my new bike...date and whatnot.
Here's pretty much how I wrote it up over there.

My first skip-tooth.

I've been working on this elderly lady in my 'hood for a couple or three weeks about acquiring this bike....I even took her some flowers! :lol:
I've been aware of it for like seven years.
I would drive by it everyday.
It would disappear into foliage in the spring, then reappear in the Fall.
Since I started reading this forum, I knew I had to do something about it and not let it get away...like the Ghia a block away [kicks self again].
It was Mrs. Tip's husband's.
He used to ride it all over town, but he died in 1972.





I sent my knowledgeable friend a pic and he estimates it to be a '34-'38.
Any Western Flyer gurus here?

The fenders are not as perfect as I originally thought, but that friend has an English wheel...not bad though.
Not sure what to do right now.
Fresh tires and get it functioning first.
Roll it rusty.












Here's the VIN.

I like what the PB Blaster did to the area.
I may rub the whole bike down with it...HAH!

I didn't get it for free, but the deal was very fair...nevermind what my wifee thought.
Mrs. Tips clearly has some sentimental attachment to it.
I told her I'd give it a good home.

I'm pretty stoked here!
I welcome all input!

The CABE is a great site!
I have much to explore and learn.
Thanks!


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## BLASTER (May 28, 2008)

I think I've learned from this site that a curved down-tube would mean '40 and up and a straight tube would mean '39 down.
Is this accurate?

It really resembles the bike this thread's about.
http://www.thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2697
Good info!!!


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## 37fleetwood (May 28, 2008)

Hi, great find! the straight down tube usually ended around 1938 with most companies though many companies offered them on budget lines well into the 40's. Western Auto didn't make their own bikes, they bought on contract from the bike companies. some years different models were made by different makers depending on the specifications needed by the buyer. your bike was made by Cleveland Welding, who made bikes for many businesses such as Montgomery Wards, Western Auto etc. you will need a Cleveland Welding expert which I'm not particularly. If you are happy then it was a great deal. fix it up and ride it. oh yeah be careful with the English Wheel idea, it is easier to ruin fenders than fix them. metal stretches when pinched, this is the principal the English Wheel is based upon.find someone with a fender roller who knows how to use one such as Wes Pinchot. I don't think he's even that expensive.
Scott


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## BLASTER (May 28, 2008)

THANKS SCOTT!
Tires soon and mechanicals...bodywork eventually, maybe.
The fenders really are not in bad shape.
Yes...I keep running into Cleveland Welding (CWC?) references.

I'm VERY pleased with bike and the deal I made [wifee rolls eyes].
Can't wait to cruise it!


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## AntonyR (May 29, 2008)

'38ish mens standard model, no tank, rear rack or truss rods, just plain and simple.  Everything with the exception of that front rack looks original, so you dont have to search for any missing parts. Ride it rusty or cherry it out, Either way it's a cool ride.


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## AntonyR (May 29, 2008)

37fleetwood said:


> the straight down tube usually ended around 1938 with most companies though many companies offered them on budget lines well into the 40's.



Cleveland Welding Co mfg'd bikes used straight down tubes on all models up through '40, even some being said to be '41's, so yours could have been sold as late as 1940. I think your bike's been worked on a bit, especially since that chainring should be facing the other way... Plus I think your frame probably had rivits instead of screws holding on your headbadge. Here's a '39 Roadmaster version of your bike. Use it as a reference.


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## BLASTER (May 29, 2008)

Thanks guys!
Excellent info!

There's remnants of a paint job that's a bit different than the example, but that's pretty much the same bike.
The bike looks new in the pic and it has no chain guard either.
Did it not come with one?
...and my chain ring is flopped.
I think you're right about the badge.
I thought the screws were odd too and the badge itself looks a little pryed on.
I would like to get a stand like that too.
Any re-pops around?




Uh oh! I've thrown off the patina!

I'm going to get it rolling solid and I think it will eventually evolve into a more polished piece.
Maybe a springer.
This one is a keeper.

Thanks a bunch!!!
Feel free to let me know what _you_ would do with this bike.


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## BLASTER (May 30, 2008)

Big thanks again for the help, guys!


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## 37fleetwood (May 30, 2008)

BLASTER said:


> Big thanks again for the help, guys!




I like it!​​Scott


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## STRADALITE (May 30, 2008)

MEMORYLANE-CLASSICS.COM has the repop dropstand $30,  dropstand clip $10, and shouldered bolts $7.50. Everything you need to make the dropstand work.
Josh


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## AntonyR (May 30, 2008)

STRADALITE said:


> MEMORYLANE-CLASSICS.COM has the repop dropstand $30,  dropstand clip $10, and shouldered bolts $7.50. Everything you need to make the dropstand work.
> Josh



Those shoulder bolts are $7.50 each, and you need 2 of them. I have a pair of new old stock ones I'll sell to you for ten(shipped). I bought one of their drop stands for less than that, because I told them that I didn't want a new one. The sold me an old one for a bit less since It was a little rusty. You'll need 2 fender rivits for the clip too. I think they want .25 each for them. The whole setup(using my bolts) will end up costing around $60 shipped. More stuff you don't need, but really want. Welcome to the club.

* Oh yeah- If you're going to roll out the fenders, you need to drill out and replace all of the rivits for the fender braces too. Might as well add those to the parts order... that's 10 rivits total, braces and clip. [chi-ching]


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## BLASTER (May 31, 2008)

Thanks AntonyR and STRADALITE!
That's a bit more than I got the bike for!  
I may be sending you a PM though, Antony.
I need to check a possible local source.


Yes, I was wondering about the rivets.
Ouch!
Still less expensive than cars!


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## BLASTER (Aug 19, 2008)

Made some more progress on my old Flyer!
Cleaned some stuff up...BUT NOT TOO MUCH!  
Re-mounted the basket.
Some skateboard hardware was used in place of some bailing wire like before.
Cleaned up the chainring a bit as well as the exterior of the front hub.




The next area I'll give attention will be the seat.
I want to leave the patina, but reupholster with some distressed leather...maybe black, like out of an old Chrysler.  

Still no stand.


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## BLASTER (Aug 19, 2008)

WHOOPS!!
I left out some info.
Sorry guys.
Here's what I posted about it on RatRodbikes.com a little while back.



			
				BLASTER said:
			
		

> I love that bike.
> 
> Mine got ridden last night, for the first time since at least 1972.
> 
> ...




Rides great!
Having a BLAST!


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## AntonyR (Aug 20, 2008)

So next, unless you really need it, lose the basket, since it isn't original and it soulds like you are concerned about preserving patina/originality. Next, start loooking for a set of truss rods and bracket. If that is a single pan seat, recovering it will be a bit more work than it looks. You need someone who can sew leather, since it is covered top and bottom, then sewn around the perimeter. Also get yourself a set of coke bottle grips, repro if necessary. Find that drop stand and you'll be pretty close to original.


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## BLASTER (Aug 20, 2008)

Thanks Antony.
The basket will stay for now.
It will come in handy on my trips to the grocers.
This will be/is a rider.
The basket is easily removed if an impromptu bike show should break out.  
It's old (not as old as the bike of course) and weathered to match the bike.
This bikes days of sleeping out-of-doors is over.
I love it!

The seat does concern me...or puzzles me.
I did notice that there's not a "clam-shell" thing going on.
Might be tricky as a DIY.
I need to do SOMETHING there though.
The spring action of it still works great!

Coke bottle grips?


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## AntonyR (Aug 20, 2008)

Yes 'coke bottle'(shaped kind of like an old Coke bottle) grips. They're the ones that are on the catalog picture that you have superimposed over yours in the post above. 
Single pan seats aren't for the inexperienced when it comes to re-covering. You can either A) send the seat out to someone who does that kind of work, and expect it to be more than you expected- correctly done by a person used to doing vintage seats= $175+. A passable job done by someone who just is able to sew leather= probably close to $100. B) take the pan you have, put it on a shelf in the garage for restoral at some later date. Find a double pan from a later seat, and cover it yourself. Most pans from the '30s through the '50s use a fairly standard 3 studded pan so they're pretty interchangeable. I have a long spring chassis with a late '40s Persons seat pan(double pan, covered easily by me) on two of my regular riders. Perfect fit, and unless you are a seat nerd and know what pans go with what chassis, you'll probably be the only one who will know. Some day when you're flush with cash, get your existing pan done right.


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