# Phillips



## Seaswood (Jun 5, 2021)

is this what is considered a light weight?

any suggestions to treat the rust on frame without harming the paint?


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## GTs58 (Jun 5, 2021)

Yes it is a lightweight. All kinds of suggestions cleaning up old bikes have been posted here. Do a search using the Search Forums on the top tool bar. 😉


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Jun 11, 2021)

rust looks pretty light on that one, I would use 0000 steel wool and WD 40 on the frame after that polish with Mirror glaze # 7. I like bronze wool on the chrome. don't uses SOS pads, they will scratch the chrome


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## dnc1 (Jun 13, 2021)

Would it be possible to see more detailed photos of the decals, and also a drive-side photo or two?
A friend has a very similar looking Phillips that is a 'Vox Populi' model.
Thanks.


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## juvela (Jun 18, 2021)

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Hello Seaswood and thank you very much for sharing this find.   😉

it appears to have been produced in the Raleigh facility of Nottingham somewhere in the mid-to-late 1960's

if you wish to check the bicycle's serial number there is a guide here -






						The Headbadge: Vintage Bicycle Resources
					






					www.kurtkaminer.com
				




the cycle's Huret gear mechs provide a demarcation line in time

between the 1965 and 1966 model years the Huret marking changed from an upright script of lightweight line to a slanted font with a stipled background

advert of May 1965 -




catalogue page of 1966 -



the cycle's pedals appear to be Phillips Apollo pattern and may be Raleigh marked

looking forward to seeing more of your machine  😃

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## Seaswood (Jun 19, 2021)

Evidently says lightweight had to take picture to see it.


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## Seaswood (Jun 19, 2021)

This was one of many bicycles. Rescued from a collection site to be destroyed.
only blemish from that is a slightly distorted top tube other than age.


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## juvela (Jun 19, 2021)

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thank you very much for these additional photos

well it certainly appears post-1965

chainset looks to be Nicklin

the number on the bottom bracket shell may be from a licensing agent rather than a factory serial

thanks again   😉 


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## Seaswood (Jun 19, 2021)

you bet.


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## juvela (Jun 19, 2021)

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checked the serial placement on the underside of the bottom bracket shell at the Raleigh resource site and this is what was employed by the manufacturer for the period of 1963-1969

the fact the the number appears to have been put in post-painting had made me think it might have been done by a licensing agency

so for dating we know cycle could not be earlier than 1966 nor later than 1969

if you can get the area cleaned enough to read marking clearly you may be able to break it down to a specific year...

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you will be able to get a reliable and serviceable machine here if you take it to bits and clean and lubricate everything

the two things which would be the most rewarding to upgrade, should you have a mind to, would be the wheels and the brakes


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## Seaswood (Jun 20, 2021)

I will clean that up this week where the number is.

most likely as this needs to come apart clean everything will be the fall.
other British vehicles are awaiting service.
& summer is here.
a friend is looking to see what wheels he has, but the hubs need to stay with bike I believe.


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## juvela (Jun 20, 2021)

Seaswood said:


> a friend is looking to see what wheels he has, but the hubs need to stay with bike I believe.




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the front spacing is likely to be 89mm rather than the more commonly encountered on derailleur geared cycles 100mm


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## Seaswood (Jun 21, 2021)

O0058
i think the far left # is a O? There also is a x before 058


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## Seaswood (Jun 21, 2021)

Looks like a wright seat, is saddle soap best conditioner?


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## juvela (Jun 21, 2021)

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the X was placed in the shell at the time of the shell's manufacture and is not part of the serial

looking like 1969

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accepted treatment for saddle tops is soaking in neatsfoot oil

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frame size appears to be the 23 1/2" nominal as measured centre to top

is this a good size for you/intended rider?

usually about right for someone 5'10" - 5'11" of height

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paint cleaning and polishing -

go gentle around the transfers - they are not clear coated

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## Seaswood (Jun 22, 2021)

The transfers?
size yes good.
thnx


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## juvela (Jun 22, 2021)

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in the context of a cycle's finish the term "transfers" refers to all the add-ons to the paint regardless of their technology

this could be decalcomania, foil, vinyl, varnish fixing, paper, etc.

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puzzled by the machine's mid-flange hubs; do not recognize them; are you are to read a marking on their barrels?

one possibility might be BH

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## Seaswood (Jun 24, 2021)

The rims are sturmey archer, the hubs have a marking on them I do not know?





the rear is a tad bit rougher than the front rim.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 24, 2021)

That logo on the hub is the Raleigh Industries logo - Sir Walter Raleigh lowering his cape.


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## Seaswood (Jun 24, 2021)

Cool!

have not checked brakes they are next.


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## juvela (Jun 24, 2021)

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in case you shall be disassembling the three components of the cycle's gear ensemble for cleaning and lubrication here are the manufacturer's parts drawings

could not tell from images if front mech is model 600 or model 700; posted drawing for model 600 earlier in thread so herewith is model 700...













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deformation to top tube -

rolling blocks can be employed to remove the high spots

if wished, low areas can be filled and then refinished or can be left





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## Seaswood (Jun 25, 2021)

Do not know what the brakes are but should clean up nice.
front.    cleaned up                                           & rear


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## juvela (Jun 25, 2021)

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thank you for the update

possible brakes may be John Bull brand


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## Seaswood (Jun 26, 2021)

The crank has the Raleigh insignia , at this point I am just soaking parts.



is the old handlebar tape available?


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## juvela (Jun 26, 2021)

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cranks -

if you look at the backside you will likely see a raised letter N sitting down in a recess; this marking stands for Nicklin





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handlebar wrap pattern appears to be that of GEM brand of the UK








ebay.uk currently has offerings for red, blue and light yellow GEM tapes but no white:






						gem handlebar tape | eBay
					

Find great deals on eBay for gem handlebar tape. Shop with confidence.



					www.ebay.co.uk
				




U.S. producer Hunt-Wilde offers tapes of similar pattern; if Brit original is unavailable you may wish to consider this brand


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## FICHT 150 (Jun 26, 2021)

Never, Never, ever, ever, use Neatsfoot oil on a leather saddle! NEVER!

Gently clean with saddle soap, and apply Brooks Proofhide.






						Product Care
					

Leather Saddles, Cycle Bags, Etc.




					www.brooksengland.com
				




Ted


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## dnc1 (Jun 27, 2021)

FICHT 150 said:


> Never, Never, ever, ever, use Neatsfoot oil on a leather saddle! NEVER!
> 
> Gently clean with saddle soap, and apply Brooks Proofhide.
> 
> ...



I second that!
Smells horrible and ruins saddles!


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## Seaswood (Jun 27, 2021)

White or blue, if no white the blue May work with blue frame.
thnx

i once long ago ruined a Brooks saddle with neatsfoot.
I have a can of proofhid.


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## Seaswood (Aug 10, 2021)

Most of the parts have come apart easily except the crank pins.
they are stuck, can you use heat on chrome?
crank is sturmey archer same as the rims the front looks salvageable.
the rear not likely, I suppose to find a 27” sturmey archer rim in not likely.?


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 10, 2021)

You can drip in oil and gently heat the crank around the pin. Be careful not to scorch the finish around the bottom bracket. The best tool for the job is a cotter pin press, such as Bike Smith Designs makes (Park tool used to make them as well). If you're careful, you might be able to use a C-clamp and socket head to do it as well, but the cotter pin press is worth the investment if you plan to work on cottered cranks much.


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## juvela (Aug 10, 2021)

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please, no pounding

pounding damages the wedgebolt and potentially the bearing races of the spindle & cups as well

pressing is the way to go; whether you employ a purpose made tool or something you adapt such as a c-clamp or bench vise

take care in setting up for pressing that all is in good alignment; you wish to press straight into the long axis of the pin; if you are off at all you will bend the stud which renders removal more difficult

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mounting -

installation is also best done with a press
adequate pressure and they will stay in place until removed
the nut on the cotter is just a keeper - a kind of safety feature and should not be relied up for installation

on a properly seated crank cotter the nut us superfluous

remember to mount them symmetrically - either the head leads or the tail leads in the rotation

many home mechanics get this wrong on the first attempt and end up with arms out of registration

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when you get everything apart you may find the centre section of the bottom bracket spindle to be marked "16GC"

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## Seaswood (Aug 15, 2021)

Okay thanks I like that method much betta!
the pin has been soaked with fair amount of blaster & heater slightly so hopefully will come out.

so likely as these are hard to remove they were properly seated some time ago.


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## Seaswood (Aug 29, 2021)

I have had a clamp with a socket over the end of the crank pin for a day now, it is aligned as best one can align a C-clamp. Has not moved is oiled with blaster.


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 29, 2021)

If the c-clamp method is not working, you may have to break down and get a Bike Smith Design type cotter press. It's a definite upgrade over the basic C-clamp. It provides more force, and importantly, more precise force through its fine threaded, domed bolt. If you're going to work on cottered bottom brackets with any regularity, it's worth the money.


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## Seaswood (Aug 31, 2021)

Yes the right tool may help.
presently out of stock, thnx for info.


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## Seaswood (Nov 8, 2021)

Yes bikesmith finally came thru & thankfully he got through to work again.

right tool took a whole five minutes.
I assume the pins were probably initially installed properly with a press as they were in fine shape.
too many years sitting outside I assume.
so now the bike can be torn down to clean the parts, photos later.

not sure about the frame, not bent per se but crushed in a couple of spots.


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## Seaswood (Nov 11, 2021)

Parts cleaning.


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## juvela (Nov 11, 2021)

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thanks for the updates

excellent to see you are moving forward with it

that first ride report can no be far distant  😉


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## Seaswood (Nov 12, 2021)

The frame has some dents, this was one of many someone got from the Hanover bicycle salvage unit.
basically headed to scrap & was pushed together with many bikes only damage was this.
not sure if this is worth trying to get round again or if that is possible?



this was likely a Dartmouth student whom abandoned the bike.
the plan is be ready in Spring.
rear rim is very rusty?


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## juvela (Nov 12, 2021)

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it is limited what can be accomplished with top tube dents due to access

the high spots of the deformation can be rolled out with rolling blocks such as those offered by Bicycle Research Products of Concord, California -





the remaining low spots can then be filled in with solder/brass/body putty and the tube repainted

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## Seaswood (Nov 16, 2021)

Wheels
the front is the front a generic rim probably replaced as. Rear wheel in back
ia a sturmey archer made in England rim.
was not in great shape but as it is likely original it will be used.
cleaned with metal wax as all these parts are getting a good cleaning.
the rust on rear rim may need some sealer tho.


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## Seaswood (Nov 24, 2021)

Thanks for the derailer diagrams the rear I almost got back right the diagrams will help for sure.
the brakes are cleaned up those I will keep as they show what was used, made in England.
To fix the frame or not, gets involved once you start removing paint adding filler.
Tho the decal is forward would not be involved.


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## Seaswood (Nov 26, 2021)

Wheel bearings rear sprocket bearings, spokes then tires & rim tape Left to do.


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## Seaswood (Dec 1, 2021)

I really do not think messing with this frame would help, without getting the top bar straight of which would be? Not so easy & could be made worse there is a ever so slight bend.
yes I had a frame fixed once on a really nice bike.


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## Seaswood (Dec 1, 2021)

Did get handlebar tape from Belgium.


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## Seaswood (Jan 11, 2022)

I did find a sturmey archer rear wheel on flea bay,  the seller made a shipment invoice but was never shipped?
funds were refunded.


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## Seaswood (Feb 15, 2022)

The nipple driver appears to have a center stud?
the center is where the spoke is so what does this tool do?
I am considering replacing the rear rim, 27”


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## juvela (Feb 16, 2022)

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the centre stud is intended to act as a seating device so the business end of the tool will not slip off the nipple

the tool is intended to run up the nipples to where the builder will work on them with a nipple grip

not intended for use after the nipple have been run up


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## Seaswood (Feb 17, 2022)

Sorry I do not see how that could be of any use if you cannot turn the end connector onto or off the spoke?


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## Seaswood (Feb 23, 2022)

I need a 40 hole rim 27” if anyone has one?


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## juvela (Feb 23, 2022)

Seaswood said:


> I need a 40 hole rim 27” if anyone has one?



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you could also post a notice in the "wanted" forum -









						Wanted: Bikes, Trikes, Parts, Accessories, Etc.
					

Looking for a bike, part, accessory or service? Post it here.




					thecabe.com
				





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## Seaswood (Feb 23, 2022)

That is next.


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## J-wagon (Feb 23, 2022)

Seaswood said:


> The rims are sturmey archer, the hubs have a marking on them I do not know?





Here's illustration of that hub image:


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