# Evapo Rust. Actually Works.



## Lance Vangraham

On a whim I bought some evapo rust tontry out. Did a 20 hours soak and holy cow I am impressed. All the rust is gone and bare metal remains. Now I have to decide if i leave it bare or Paint it up ....probably will wax it and leave it bare. Try it out if you have time. This is off my 40s rollfast project. First pic is before and second is after.


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## catfish

Good to know. I might have to try it. I usually use Ospho.


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## Lance Vangraham

catfish said:


> Good to know. I might have to try it. I usually use Ospho.



I just took a large Ziploc bag and then put the stuff in it. Poured in the evapo rust and sealed bag off. Got more parts soaking in the same solution since last night. Hopefully it works twice, it's kinda spendy


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## catfish

Lance Vangraham said:


> I just took a large Ziploc bag and then put the stuff in it. Poured in the evapo rust and sealed bag off. Got more parts soaking in the same solution since last night. Hopefully it works twice, it's kinda spendy




Good idea.


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## Boris

Lance Vangraham said:


> Hopefully it works twice, it's kinda spendy




Very spendy. Give Oxalic Acid a try next time. Works great, much cheaper. Plenty of info on this site about it


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## Evans200

I use evaporust all the time. Always great results, plus no fumes, safe on hands, and re useable.


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## Lance Vangraham

Evans200 said:


> I use evaporust all the time. Always great results, plus no fumes, safe on hands, and re useable.



Do you find it works the best the first use though? Seems that way in my end. But still i stand behind it, great product.


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## Evans200

Lance Vangraham said:


> Do you find it works the best the first use though? Seems that way in my end. But still i stand behind it, great product.



After the first use, I just keep the parts in longer to get the same results. Pull the parts out, lightly scrub with an old tooth brush, and rinse. I like the fact that I can do all this with bare hands, and not having any fumes is nice too.


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## Pantmaker

I'm pretty sure evaporust is a solution of mostly citric acid. I buy citric acid cheap on eBay and use it with the same results as evaporust.


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## Boris

Pantmaker said:


> I'm pretty sure evaporust is a solution of mostly citric acid. I buy citric acid cheap on eBay and use it with the same results as evaporust.




Now that's interesting! That's worth looking into.


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## Boris

Here's a short Q & A article I found about rust removal using citric acid. It will answer your "how much to mix" and "how to use" questions. Think I'll give it a try next time around. Why? Because Oxalic Acid is harmful to breath and should not come in contact with skin, Evaporust is too expensive, and Molasses is too slow.
http://trestore.wkfinetools.com/techniques/rustCitricAcid/rustCitricAcid1.asp


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## the tinker

Dave you are right about Oxalic Acid being harmful! Thank you for posting this. It is a weird chemical to use.  I have looked up precautions on it. It says never to get it on your skin as it will be absorbed and can cause problems. [kinda vague on the problem part]
What I have noticed is that when I mix it up there it does give off very light fumes.  I mix it in a 5 gallon bucket  in side the house. I set the bucket in the laundry tub and fill with only hot water.  I have used this stuff with cold water but the hotter the water the quicker and better results. While mixing it there is a slight odor and ever so light burning feeling in my eyes as I am in a confined space indoors. Then I carry it out side and dump into a pool to soak the stuff I wish to de-rust.
Every time I have used this stuff for the next 3 days after I have noticed I am a little short of breath.

It goes away but has happened and can not be a coincidence.This stuff is no where near acids like muriatic, acid magic or wire wheel cleaner but still is harmful and a mask should be used when mixing it and Never use indoors.[had a leak.....  gallons of O X on the basement floor]
Fellow Caber "Chitown" has used Lime Juice with great success.
I do want to add that I do have asthma and take an inhaler. I have never smoked but have been in the building trades my entire life and have had my fill of breathing dust and now am affected by breathing  any of it immediately. 
I can't remember the exact circumstance but he acquired a large amount of the stuff and tried it. It worked so well he now will only use the lime juice. I have seen the results for myself and think it is as good as and certainly safer then oxalic acid.
This oxalic acid appears harmless but it is corrosive stuff and care should be used  when handling and using it.


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## Pantmaker

Here's the citric acid that I buy. I think it's like $12.


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi

Pantmaker said:


> Here's the citric acid that I buy. I think it's like $12.View attachment 348728



Good to make ricotta with.... 
1 gallon whole milk
1/2 gallon heavy cream 
25 grams salt
25 grams sugar
19 grams citric acid
Bring cream, milk, salt and sugar to a light boil. Remove from heat and let stand for 1 minute. Wisk in citric acid. Let stand 15 minutes then strain through cheese cloth that's been folded over 3 times. Let drain over night. For dry ricotta replace cream with half and half. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## schwinnbikebobb

I could not find the citric acid for $12 (Amazon cheapest at around $16) but I'm going to give it a try.  I use a teaspoon of OA for about 5 gallons of  water, what is the mix ratio for CA?   Does it turn dark as it gets used?


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## Pantmaker

After playing around with various concentration I've settled into a 3-4% solution... with warm water. I think the results are a bit faster if the water is warm...or it might just be my imagination.  I live in Arizona so I can actually maintain my temp by placing the dwell container in the sun as long as I add water back as it evaporates. I should add the fact that citric acid works perfectly fine at room temp too. It does darken as it exhausts and I am a big believer in removing the parts from the solution every now and again to "clean up" the surface of the parts...again...this might just be a stupid OCD thing of mine that contributes nothing positive to the process....oh yea almost forgot... beer.


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## Pantmaker

Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> Good to make ricotta with....
> 1 gallon whole milk
> 1/2 gallon heavy cream
> 25 grams salt
> 25 grams sugar
> 19 grams citric acid
> Bring cream, milk, salt and sugar to a light boil. Remove from heat and let stand for 1 minute. Wisk in citric acid. Let stand 15 minutes then strain through cheese cloth that's been folded over 3 times. Let drain over night. For dry ricotta replace cream with half and half.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk



Ha! Great crossover utility!


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## SirMike1983

The ricotta with oxalic instead of citric acid tasted funny... They do not interchange in that respect.



Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> Good to make ricotta with....
> 1 gallon whole milk
> 1/2 gallon heavy cream
> 25 grams salt
> 25 grams sugar
> 19 grams citric acid
> Bring cream, milk, salt and sugar to a light boil. Remove from heat and let stand for 1 minute. Wisk in citric acid. Let stand 15 minutes then strain through cheese cloth that's been folded over 3 times. Let drain over night. For dry ricotta replace cream with half and half.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Boris

the tinker said:


> Then I carry it out side and dump into a pool to soak the stuff I wish to de-rust. Every time I have used this stuff for the next 3 days after I have noticed I am a little short of breath.




Vince had the same problem, but we discovered it was because he was too cheap to buy his own pool and was using some little kids pool 8 blocks away. Could this be your problem too?


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## the tinker

That's funny Dave. Seriously though, I have had the same breathing  problems after using spray type shower tile cleaner.
I just want to advise the folks here on the Cabe that Oxalic Acid  irritates the lungs when mixed with hot water and some may have a reaction to it. Those with existing lung problems may find themselves out of breath after using it. I would only use it outside.

Now as far as buying a pool that is not on my list as I fill the kid's pool next door .I only have to walk a few feet.
They are little brats so I let them wade in it to retrieve my parts.


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## SirMike1983

the tinker said:


> That's funny Dave. Seriously though, I have had the same breathing  problems after using spray type shower tile cleaner.
> I just want to advise the folks here on the Cabe that Oxalic Acid  irritates the lungs when mixed with hot water and some may have a reaction to it. Those with existing lung problems may find themselves out of breath after using it. I would only use it outside.
> 
> Now as far as buying a pool that is not on my list as I fill the kid's pool next door .I only have to walk a few feet.
> They are little brats so I let them wade in it to retrieve my parts.




Oxalic has an effect similar to powdered chlorine (though chlorine is alkaline). The dust adheres to the moist surface of your nose, eyes, and throat. It will cause all these places to burn. If you inhale it, it can cause the same sensation in the chest. I like to pour the oxalic powder directly into the water, not the water onto the powder. This causes the crystals to submerge and limits oxalic dust in the air. If pour water onto the oxalic, you risk dispersing the oxalic dust into the air.


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## momo608

Reading this with some interest. I pretty much gave up on chemical rust removers years ago, but I do use various rust removal treatments offered by PPG prior to painting automotive sheet metal if I'm concerned about future problems but that is for rust almost invisible to the naked eye. Sand blasting whole body panels can cause major warping problems but heavy metal parts or small sheet metal stampings can be blasted with no problems. What ever happened to naval jelly? I thought it was crap anyway. 

So what do you do at this point with this part? I would not trust this finish for painting, not sure you can say the rust has been completely removed or neutralized. I guess it's good enough for a painted rat project.


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## SirMike1983

I never had luck with Naval Jelly. Naval Jelly can also stain paint (especially white or similar light colors).


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## Boris

momo608 said:


> So what do you do at this point with this part? I would not trust this finish for painting, not sure you can say the rust has been completely removed or neutralized. I guess it's good enough for a painted rat project.




What I would do, would be to use some not-too-coarse sandpaper using a liberal amount of pressure, then a small wire brush, again liberal pressure, then some medium steel wool with pressure, again liberally, then some stuff called Metal Ready or similar pre-paint metal prep product, dare I say, also applied liberally. Rinse it off liberally, and go at it again in a liberal fashion with the wire brush and fine steel wool. However, you might want to try a more conservative approach.


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## momo608

Dave Marko said:


> What I would do, would be to use some not-too-coarse sandpaper using a liberal amount of pressure, then a small wire brush, again liberal pressure, then some medium steel wool with pressure, again liberally, then some stuff called Metal Ready or similar pre-paint metal prep product, dare I say, also applied liberally. Rinse it off liberally, and go at it again in a liberal fashion with the wire brush and fine steel wool. However, you might want to try a more conservative approach.




How liberal of you. Your method sounds taxing!


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## Boris

Addendum to my previous post: I would give the citric acid a try first, as suggested in this thread.


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## schwinnbikebobb

So if I'm figuring right that's 2/3 cup per gallon of water or 3.5 cups per 5 gallons.  Seems like a lot, am I figuring right?


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## Duck

schwinnbikebobb said:


> So if I'm figuring right that's 2/3 cup per gallon of water or 3.5 cups per 5 gallons.  Seems like a lot, am I figuring right?



 I've mixed it 1/2 : 1 and it worked fine.


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## Lance Vangraham

momo608 said:


> Reading this with some interest. I pretty much gave up on chemical rust removers years ago, but I do use various rust removal treatments offered by PPG prior to painting automotive sheet metal if I'm concerned about future problems but that is for rust almost invisible to the naked eye. Sand blasting whole body panels can cause major warping problems but heavy metal parts or small sheet metal stampings can be blasted with no problems. What ever happened to naval jelly? I thought it was crap anyway.
> 
> So what do you do at this point with this part? I would not trust this finish for painting, not sure you can say the rust has been completely removed or neutralized. I guess it's good enough for a painted rat project.



what i did was 2 types of steel wool to smooth it out and soaked it in wd 40 after the evapo rust. looks pretty great on my rollfast rat rod. probably will get rusty over time again but its ok. its  a rat bike afterall


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## the tinker

This is a good example of the drawbacks of oxalic acid attacking red paint.This tank is badly rusted and because the red paint is oxidized to a flat chalk board texture the oxalic acid easily attacks the iron oxide in the red paint.I want to remove the rust that has overtaken the entire surface, [ as shown in the first photo] unfortunately it leaves the remaining red paint lighter then the original shade. Does a great job getting the rust out of the white painted areas. The tank was soaked in the ox solution for 1 hour.
I will try to rub in with a rag a brownish red paint to match the bicycle frame patina.


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## the2finger

Evaporust works! Safe no fumes. I soaked the rusty chrome on this bike an average of 6 hours. Was able to take the residual rust off with 0000 steel wool.


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## saladshooter

Can citric acid be used on painted parts too? Or just chrome/cad?

If so, any examples or soaking times used?

Thanks! 
Chad


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## Duck

saladshooter said:


> Can citric acid be used on painted parts too? Or just chrome/cad?
> 
> If so, any examples or soaking times used?
> 
> Thanks!
> Chad



 Just check on things frequently the first few times you use it, till you're familiar with the way it works.


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## Barto

the tinker said:


> Dave you are right about Oxalic Acid being harmful! Thank you for posting this. It is a weird chemical to use.  I have looked up precautions on it. It says never to get it on your skin as it will be absorbed and can cause problems. [kinda vague on the problem part]
> What I have noticed is that when I mix it up there it does give off very light fumes.  I mix it in a 5 gallon bucket  in side the house. I set the bucket in the laundry tub and fill with only hot water.  I have used this stuff with cold water but the hotter the water the quicker and better results. While mixing it there is a slight odor and ever so light burning feeling in my eyes as I am in a confined space indoors. Then I carry it out side and dump into a pool to soak the stuff I wish to de-rust.
> Every time I have used this stuff for the next 3 days after I have noticed I am a little short of breath.
> 
> It goes away but has happened and can not be a coincidence.This stuff is no where near acids like muriatic, acid magic or wire wheel cleaner but still is harmful and a mask should be used when mixing it and Never use indoors.[had a leak.....  gallons of O X on the basement floor]
> Fellow Caber "Chitown" has used Lime Juice with great success.
> I do want to add that I do have asthma and take an inhaler. I have never smoked but have been in the building trades my entire life and have had my fill of breathing dust and now am affected by breathing  any of it immediately.
> I can't remember the exact circumstance but he acquired a large amount of the stuff and tried it. It worked so well he now will only use the lime juice. I have seen the results for myself and think it is as good as and certainly safer then oxalic acid.
> This oxalic acid appears harmless but it is corrosive stuff and care should be used  when handling and using it.




Like with any  chemical, better safe than sorry.  Being that I'm not a Chemical Engineer I stick with the experts.  I use a Material Safety Data Sheet...better known as an MSDS sheet.  It's a detailed list of the product, dangers, cautions, first aid and medical treatment.  They are a alible for all  chemicals.


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## OhioJones

Found that first mornings urine works great for cleaning the neighbors bike. Just a thought. 
Side note: have not tried making ricotta with this yet. More to come.


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## Gasbag

I just tried Evapo-rust for the first time for some small parts. After a long parts soak in the Evapo-rust, I followed up with a session immediately in my ultrasonic tank with a weak detergent solution. It was amazing how much crud came off in the ultrasonic tank after the Evapo-rust soak. I did a pretty rusty Sturmey trigger shifter in particular that came out beautiful. This may be my future go-to method for small parts.


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## the2finger

Is that before or after morning coffee?


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## Evans200

I'm a Evaporust fan. I won't use any other brand or type. Before and after pics of Dial-Your-Ride springer. 24 hours in evaporust, toothbrushed, and rinsed.


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