# 1935-36 HW DURALIUM I'm



## TR6SC (Mar 19, 2017)

I bought this bike from a fellow member a couple weeks ago. Very good transaction. No surprises. I also want to thank the other members who chimed in with XLNT input. I now have a good idea of what this baby is. I began the soapy wet sanding today with #400. Look at the lovely little T on the forks. Any ideas?


 

 This bike has the split collar seat post. Will this be difficult to find?


I'm going to weld the holes in the head casting that don't belong.


Damaged threads and a split in the tube suggest I replace. Does anyone know if I can get this tube free of the forks, or is splicing in with reinforcement the way to go?






Thanks!


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## Scribble (Mar 20, 2017)

Awesome bike, making me want to get to work on my Silver-King again.


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## TR6SC (Mar 20, 2017)

Scribble said:


> Awesome bike, making me want to get to work on my Silver-King again.



What's yours? Post fotos.


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## Scribble (Mar 20, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> What's yours? Post fotos.





1936 HW


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## TR6SC (Mar 20, 2017)

Scribble said:


> 1936 HW
> View attachment 438610
> View attachment 438611



That looks great. I'm new to this bike, so forgive my questions if they are way off. Is that an aluminum center stand? And, what is correct on these bikes? Skip tooth, or 1/2"?
Your bike looks like it's ready to get rolling. PM me if you want some input on polishing.


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## Scribble (Mar 20, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> That looks great. I'm new to this bike, so forgive my questions if they are way off. Is that an aluminum center stand? And, what is correct on these bikes? Skip tooth, or 1/2"?
> Your bike looks like it's ready to get rolling. PM me if you want some input on polishing.




Yep 1/2 is what these bike had from factory, mine is actually original to the bike. I'll have to check the drop stand to see if it's aluminum, don't think is it off the top of my head. Ya the polishing is whats holding me back right now just so time consuming, that and all the screws are rusted in the fame still have not worked my self up enough to try drilling and taping all the rusted screws.


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## TR6SC (Mar 20, 2017)

Scribble said:


> Yep 1/2 is what these bike had from factory, mine is actually original to the bike. I'll have to check the drop stand to see if it's aluminum, don't think is it off the top of my head. Ya the polishing is whats holding me back right now just so time consuming, that and all the screws are rusted in the fame still have not worked my self up enough to try drilling and taping all the rusted screws.



I hear ya 'bout the sanding/polishing. You gotta get your mind right. Wax on, wax off! The end result makes it worth it.  The hardest part is the first grit. Once you've done that, it is smooth sailing, grasshopper. One step at a time. Soak those nuts and bolts for a day or two. They'll come right apart. Is it only the rear end bits that are frozen? You'll feel way ahead of the game once everything is freed up.


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## Scribble (Mar 20, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> I hear ya 'bout the sanding/polishing. You gotta get your mind right. Wax on, wax off! The end result makes it worth it.  The hardest part is the first grit. Once you've done that, it is smooth sailing, grasshopper. One step at a time. Soak those nuts and bolts for a day or two. They'll come right apart. Is it only the rear end bits that are frozen? You'll feel way ahead of the game once everything is freed up.




Ya just the rear end of the bike has the rusty crusty bits, the really bad part about it, is the heads of the screws are broken off along with both  chain tensioners broken as well. Seems my only option is hand drilling and taping if I want to mount my rear fender.


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## TR6SC (Mar 20, 2017)

Scribble said:


> Ya just the rear end of the bike has the rusty crusty bits, the really bad part about it, is the heads of the screws are broken off along with both  chain tensioners say outsbroken as well. Seems my only option is hand drilling and taping if I want to mount my rear fender.



Easy outs work well. So does a dremel tool. You can carve a slot into the broken screw that will accept a flathead screwdriver.. Plenty of loosening juice will free the bolt or screw so you can remove it from the frame. The slot that you carve lets you. Insert a screwdriver. Google easy out to view how to remove screws with a drill


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## mike j (Mar 21, 2017)

I really like those frames, have a similar one. When I got mine the fork tube was broken in half, looked like something chewed it up. Was able to have it welded back together, believed that is really pressed in to the fork so removal didn't seem like a good option. Splicing w/ reinforcement will work, but it looks like you still have a lot of good threads left, most bike shops have the threading tool, then you could just have the split welded. Sanding & polishing aluminum is a long but well worth process, good luck.


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## TR6SC (Mar 21, 2017)

MJ, That's about as slick a setup as I've seen. Tell me if those are 26" wheels squeezed in there. Since I haven't got the book yet on these, tell me if you would about the tank. And, how can one tell the diff between the HW's and the Monarks. What are you using for hubs? They look like ND black outs.
P.S. Nice device on the downtube dude!


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## mike j (Mar 21, 2017)

TR6SC, thanks for the kind words, yes those are 26's that fit in there nicely, though I doubt fenders would fit in too. Tank is a repurposed pool cover roller, I have no clue as to the differences b'twn the two brands. I'll have to go look at the hubs again, forget what I used. I want to work on some way to raise the seat a little more & get this one back on the road again.


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## stoney (Mar 21, 2017)

mike j said:


> I really like those frames, have a similar one. When I got mine the fork tube was broken in half, looked like something chewed it up. Was able to have it welded back together, believed that is really pressed in to the fork so removal didn't seem like a good option. Splicing w/ reinforcement will work, but it looks like you still have a lot of good threads left, most bike shops have the threading tool, then you could just have the split welded. Sanding & polishing aluminum is a long but well worth process, good luck.
> 
> View attachment 439070




I like how your tank is tucked in there.


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## Andrew Gorman (Mar 21, 2017)

If i remember from reading the patent for these frames, the steerer was chilled in liquid nitrogen and pressed into the fork.  That might be hard to do in the home shop.  Apart from the split, there might be enough metal left to salvage the threads with a thread repair file:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...=industrial&field-keywords=thread+repair+file
I've been able to salvage really messed up threaded parts with these.  It can take some time, but  it's a quiet, contemplative kind of job,  Cutting in new threads with a die can remove too much metal.  Welding in a new steerer can also be done- just make sure it is straight and concentric with the stub in the fork.  A lot of frame builders will do this for you, and they understand what needs to be done.  Or just find a good welder/fabricator.


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## TR6SC (Mar 23, 2017)

Good input AG. All my liquid nitrogen has dried up! I struggled with a thread file, but wasn't getting anywhere.  I ended up chasing the threads with a die. It turned out much better that I would have guessed. The cone threads on nicely with no binding or slop.


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## TR6SC (Apr 4, 2017)

Good day today! I was able to rip through #600, #800, and #1200. I used a little aluminum polish just to make me happy.
Tomorrow I will attack the frame. I hope to get through #800. Right now the #400 is done. Should be smooth sailing. 
Since I have nothing other than the frame and forks, I was thinking black hubs, spokes, rims, and tires. 26 inch. Comments?


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## Scribble (Apr 5, 2017)

I like the black out wheel set idea, I was actually going to do something similar. Just because of the fact that my rims are already painted black.

Also the drop stand is steel not aluminum.


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## TR6SC (May 5, 2017)

Scribble said:


> I like the black out wheel set idea, I was actually going to do something similar. Just because of the fact that my rims are already painted black.
> 
> Also the drop stand is steel not aluminum.



Dude! Talk to me! How's the project?


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## Scribble (May 5, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> Dude! Talk to me! How's the project?




still chugging along, soaked all the rusty bits in PB Blaster for a week still not coming out. So I went and bought brand new cobalt drill bits and a tap set, now I just need to drill and tap the rusty screws. I also ordered a set of ThickSlick tires for it but it's been put on the back burner just for a bit, I entered the RatRodBikes yearly build off with my 1950s J.C Higgins Color-Flow so I need to focus on that for a while.


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## TR6SC (May 6, 2017)

Scribble said:


> still chugging along, soaked all the rusty bits in PB Blaster for a week still not coming out. So I went and bought brand new cobalt drill bits and a tap set, now I just need to drill and tap the rusty screws. I also ordered a set of ThickSlick tires for it but it's been put on the back burner just for a bit, I entered the RatRodBikes yearly build off with my 1950s J.C Higgins Color-Flow so I need to focus on that for a while.



Are you hip to "Easy Outs"?


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## Scribble (May 7, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> Are you hip to "Easy Outs"?




Ya I looked in to that, the screws are just to brittle I tried cutting a notch in to them but they just broke off as I was cutting. I think easy out would do the same thing just keep braking the screws shorter and shorter.


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## TR6SC (May 7, 2017)

If you have to drill them out, first drill a hole in another piece of aluminum, or better yet, steel. Locate that hole over the broken bolt and clamp it to the bike. This will keep the drill bit from "walking." Start with small bits and work up in size.
Which bolts are still frozen? Also there's a tool called a stud remover. It can get ahold of that broken stud really tight. Propane can be used to heat up the aluminum. It'll expand the metal to free things up.  Carefully!  No hotter than sizzling spit.


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## TR6SC (May 20, 2017)

Does anyone know what size rivets the badge uses?





I got those extra holes welded up. If you look real close, you can't see 'em!!
I did some draw filing, 220, and 400.

I found an aluminum tandem stoker dog bone, and a piece of aluminum rod. It's a bit tall, but I'll cut it down later. 




Stainless 28" wide bars. It's time to get down to some fine grit paper.


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## Krakatoa (May 21, 2017)

How much for the tiles!!


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## TR6SC (May 21, 2017)

Krakatoa said:


> How much for the tiles!!



I know, they're beautiful. They are on the counter because I'm mounting them in a frame. I'll give you the tiles for free, but the frame is $1000!
Plus shipping!!


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## Krakatoa (May 21, 2017)

LOL!!

Ah they should stay in California where they belong. My other love besides bikes are 20's & 30's American Art Pottery & Tile. California had some of the best companies going: Gladding McBean (still in business!), Catalina, Malibu, S & S, Taylor, Batchelder, Bauer, Brayton Laguna, Kraftile, etc. etc...

Here's an original Batchelder Tile (Los Angeles) wrought iron table I still have....

It would look good in Eureka!!

N


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## TR6SC (May 21, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> I know, they're beautiful. They are on the counter because I'm mounting them in a frame. I'll give you the tiles for free, but the frame is $1000!





Krakatoa said:


> LOL!!
> 
> Ah they should stay in California where they belong. My other love besides bikes are 20's & 30's American Art Pottery & Tile. California had some of the best companies going: Gladding McBean (still in business!), Catalina, Malibu, S & S, Taylor, Batchelder, Bauer, Brayton Laguna, Kraftile, etc. etc...
> 
> ...


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## TR6SC (May 21, 2017)

I'm sitting here with that buddy that used to live on Upper Pratt Pond Rd off of Poor Farm Hill.
Finally, somebody I can talk to! Not many people know those tile names. My godfather used to work at G/McBean.


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## Scribble (May 22, 2017)

The bike is lookin awesome, also cool tiles .


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## TR6SC (May 23, 2017)

Krakatoa said:


> LOL!!
> 
> Ah they should stay in California where they belong. My other love besides bikes are 20's & 30's American Art Pottery & Tile. California had some of the best companies going: Gladding McBean (still in business!), Catalina, Malibu, S & S, Taylor, Batchelder, Bauer, Brayton Laguna, Kraftile, etc. etc...
> 
> ...



I didn't know Batchelder was born in Nashua!


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## TR6SC (Jun 21, 2017)

I've been putting this off because of the time/effort involved. What with buying a Wingbar that needs TLC, I figure it's time to "get 'er dun!"
Since I'd already sanded to #600, I dug in for the home stretch. A little #400 here and there for the scratches I'd missed and bang bang, #800 and #1000, Finito!  At least finito on the head casting. Mañana is another day ¡Hombres y Mujers!
Wait! The day is young so the bottom bracket is done.


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## 56 Vette (Jun 22, 2017)

Looking great, amazing how well those frames polish up!


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## TINYuproar (Jun 25, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> View attachment 485197 View attachment 485136 I've been putting this off because of the time/effort involved. What with buying a Wingbar that needs TLC, I figure it's time to "get 'er dun!"
> Since I'd already sanded to #600, I dug in for the home stretch. A little #400 here and there for the scratches I'd missed and bang bang, #800 and #1000, Finito!  At least finito on the head casting. Mañana is another day ¡Hombres y Mujers!
> Wait! The day is young so the bottom bracket is done.




End result images?  I'd love to see the finished product!!!! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TR6SC (Jul 12, 2017)

Baby Steps! Here is the frame after 1000 grit wet or dry, then hand polished and washed. No buffer. 

 

 I know screws are a no no, but me no know. I got tired of looking for brass rivets to go with my stripped of paint badge.


The brass looks good on the aluminum. 

 I'm ready to get this bike done. 

 I do not want to get $$$ into the seat, but springs would be nice. Any ideas?


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## 56 Vette (Jul 12, 2017)

Looking great! Amazing work, enjoying watching your progress, and getting a little inspiration for mine!! Really like the bare brass badge! Joe


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## TR6SC (Sep 10, 2017)

The Duralium in coming along. At first it was going to be tripple3! stepped rims, black hubs, black spokes, black tires, but these 26 x 57s presented themselves. 


It's a good thing aluminiumium is malleable, 'cause this hub is WIDE. I should be able to squeeze in some creamy and delicious Fat Frank 2.35s, or that's what the experts have told me.


Due to the fact that Geezerville is more than a state of mind or a zip code, my old body needs a little gearing. Shimano 7-speed with a coaster brake. 


 
And it better have a low gear on it. This sprocket looks like it's off of Ray's cycle!


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## TR6SC (Sep 17, 2017)

The bike is beginning to take shape. Something about wheels that make all the difference. I laced the rear cross 3, and the front cross 2. It looks like there's just enough room for the 2.35 x 26 tires that are in the mail. I'll dig into my stash of garage door opener chain to get an extra long piece once I put a bigger sprocket on the rear.


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## Cowboy in NC (Sep 17, 2017)

Amazing! It looks like You sent it off and had it Chromed! That Bike is gonna FLY !!! ......Shoot, It`s Flying Now...--------Cowboy
I can see You now, passing me on the Interstate... Buck Rogers Bike !!!


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## TR6SC (Sep 28, 2017)

I've got an 18 tooth cog on this Nexus7 hub.


I have found an even bigger front chainring than the earlier foto shows, 65 teeth.


Big thanks to rcole45. He told me about stealing a larger cog from a rear cluster and filing off the extra drive detents. Now I'm running a 30 tooth rear. 65/30x26=56.3. That's perfect as a fixed gearing ratio for me. The Nexus 1st gear will now be about 35 inches, while the high gear will be about 87 inches. 


A couple of old chains for mock-up tells me I need 63-1/2 links.


I still need a sexy seat!!!


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## TR6SC (Oct 4, 2017)

With these Nexus hubs, the axle must not spin. This green anti-rotate washer does the trick. 


The angle of the shifting cable establishes which set of color coded washers to use. Different angled dropouts call for the right set to use.
They even have a cutaway in the tab to allow space for the banjo bolts or axle adjusting screws. Shimano recommends placing the tab toward the closed end of the dropout.


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## modelcarjedi (Oct 4, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> With these Nexus hubs, the axle must not spin. This green anti-rotate washer does the trick. View attachment 686850
> The angle of the shifting cable establishes which set of color coded washers to use. Different angled dropouts call for the right set to use.
> They even have a cutaway in the tab to allow space for the banjo bolts or axle adjusting screws. Shimano recommends placing the tab toward the closed end of the dropout.View attachment 686849




I broke two chains before I realized I needed it [emoji22]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TR6SC (Oct 5, 2017)

Up front is the twister-shifter. It uses a lot of real estate and won't slide on to the curve of the bars.


 
I twisted up a couple of aluminum slugs.


These babies are a hammer fit. Don't want them coming out during a wheelie!

 
Just right.


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## gkeep (Oct 27, 2017)

You my friend are having too much FUN in geezerville! You know what accessory you need for this Buck Rogers spacecraft? A model 111B Deluxe Scintillator. I just happen to have one in my office with the original leather shoulder carrying case, warranty papers  and instruction manual. https://www.orau.org/ptp/collection/surveymeters/precisiondeluxe.htm. Bet you can't guess where I found it!  It's one of the more popular conversations pieces in my office. It would look good mounted on that downtube, keep the space aliens, The Thing and The Blob at arms length.


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## TR6SC (Oct 28, 2017)

gkeep said:


> You my friend are having too much FUN in geezerville! You know what accessory you need for this Buck Rogers spacecraft? A model 111B Deluxe Scintillator. I just happen to have one in my office with the original leather shoulder carrying case, warranty papers  and instruction manual. https://www.orau.org/ptp/collection/surveymeters/precisiondeluxe.htm. Bet you can't guess where I found it!  It's one of the more popular conversations pieces in my office. It would look good mounted on that downtube, keep the space aliens, The Thing and The Blob at arms length.



AND some of those less than desirable types scintillated.
 I remember a girl, back in the '50s it was... yes, it's getting clearer now... she spelled scintillating with a K instead of a C. I'll never forget her!


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## TR6SC (Feb 16, 2018)

My how time flies. This project started about a year ago. There are still details unaddressed, but I'm calling it done.
This insane sprocket came off an exercycle. I fitted in an equalizing rear cog to keep the ratio normal. The long chain came from the garage door guy.



Took it out for a test ride. Tires got dirty. Probably should have kept it indoors and called it a board track bike!


Coils, clamp, and clearance.


Aluminum tandem dogbone with homemade stainless carriage bolts. The long seat post and stem were fashioned out of aluminum stock.


Some needed color.





 7 Speed Shimano Nexus and a Wald Axle Mount with patina to match the seat clamp. Way too much shine going on. 


Thanks to everyone who supplied info, parts, and/or encouragement. I'm gearing up to getting the Flo-Cycle going.


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## Scribble (Feb 16, 2018)

Really cool build !


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## Bikermaniac (Feb 21, 2018)

Wow! pretty awesome.


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## TR6SC (Apr 10, 2018)

I lied. The project is Not done.


  The sprocket is just too big. But, only to to the eye because the rear cog is also huge. It looks like a Racycle/Beach Cruiser. I figured I'd put a guard on it to dress it down a bit. I found a painted aluminum one that I forgot to photograph. I made a shoe to hold it steady. 

Strips of wood glued on allowed the guard to sit neatly and firmly so I could sand to my hearts content without difficulty. Linoleum on the countertop, a block of wood, sandpaper from #100 to # 1000. Wet or Dry and dish soap. I'm 





Then some Mothers polish.


Looks great with no buffer.


Almost like chrome.




 
Ready to Ride!


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## Autocycleplane (Apr 10, 2018)

Wow really cool build. The chainguard was a great call. Hope to see you again riding this fine machine this summer.


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## TR6SC (Apr 10, 2018)

Autocycleplane said:


> Wow really cool build. The chainguard was a great call. Hope to see you again riding this fine machine this summer.



Planning on it. Are the dates set yet?


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## Autocycleplane (Apr 11, 2018)

TR6SC said:


> Planning on it. Are the dates set yet?




Yeah last weekend in July


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## TR6SC (Jan 30, 2019)

I thought I was done, but no, it seems to never end! The Nexus 7 has a very week brake in that it heats up quickly.  I found a couple of NOS New Departure WD brakes recently so I went for it. 









The project was bigger than re-lacing the wheel and finding a lever and cable. The cable rubbed against the tire, so I twisted a wire and screwed it into the forks, but the tire rubbed. There was no clearance. None. 



Can't get the welder into the axle slot, so that needed opening up.



Lots of rod fusing and filling lengthened the forks. Lots of filing and sanding and polishing and I'm so done with all that, or so I thought. 


Here's the final set-up. 



A motorcycle throttle adjuster and cable. 



I had to make the top ferrule and brass cable end since the lever I found had size issues. 



After welding, I ended up with enough clearance to squeeze in a set of truss rods. More polishing, but it sure looks good with the rods. 



And the lever looks right-ish!!!


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## New Mexico Brant (Jan 30, 2019)

Dam!  Major skills there, I am jealous!


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## TR6SC (Jan 30, 2019)

New Mexico Brant said:


> Dam!  Major skills there, I am jealous!



Don't be. It's mostly caveman technology. The welding is by a friend whose skills I envy. He's remarkable. The grinding, sanding, and polishing are practiced grunt work. The getting it done through thinking things out and figuring is the part I'm proudest of. The most fun is making the little bits on the lathe. But again, only a couple of knobs, like an Etch-a-Sketch.


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## OhioJones (Jan 31, 2019)

TR6SC said:


> Don't be. It's mostly caveman technology. The welding is by a friend whose skills I envy. He's remarkable. The grinding, sanding, and polishing are practiced grunt work. The getting it done through thinking things out and figuring is the part I'm proudest of. The most fun is making the little bits on the lathe. But again, only a couple of knobs, like an Etch-a-Sketch.



Beautifully done. Always neat to see that grunt work we do day in and day out actually payoff in other areas of our lives. Very nice.


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