# I got a new ballooner, and I have questions



## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Hi guys, I got a new bike over the weekend and I just want to pick the brains of the experts here. Please don't pick it apart and make me sad, because I really love it and paid probably too much for it. However, will you guys look it over and help me identify what year it is and for sure what model? A friend tells me it's a B6. The numbers are under the cranks on the bottom of the frame and are B48551. Also, can you tell me what I need to do to make it more correct if anything (that's the part that scares me)? I'm a stingray guy and these bikes here are all new to me. Thank you in advance for your help. Please let me know if you have any questions or need to see anything more.   Danny


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## bikewhorder (Nov 14, 2016)

Looks pretty good to me, Could use a 6 hole rack in original burgundy paint which is not too hard to find. I'd lose the front fender tip ornament and add a drum brake hub to the front but that's just me.


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## fattyre (Nov 14, 2016)

Great bike.  I'd say you found a nice original.  All I'd say is paint the front light so matches better and I second loosing the fender tip.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Awesome guys, thank you. I had planned on painting the fenderlight and ditching that awful fender tip too. The battery holder in the horn assembly is rotten away. Is that something that can be found easily? And can anyone tell me by the number shear year it is? I tried looking, but get confused on the numbering systems from Schwinn.


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## rustjunkie (Nov 14, 2016)

Great bike! I say clean and service, ride and enjoy, paint loss, fender tip and all


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

That sounds like a good idea to me too. I was just wondering what to do with the holes that tip would leave if I removed it. Yeah I think I will clean it, go through the hubs and bearings and get the horn functioning and just enjoy it!
I still need someone's help on the year.


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## Vintage Paintworx (Nov 14, 2016)

Like Rustjunkie said, enjoy as is. Not every Schwinn came with a rack, and when you go to sell it, nobody will appreciate the additional time and money you've invested in it.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Very true!


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Nov 14, 2016)

Front fender is not original to that bike. The Fender on it is for a truss fork

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## rustjunkie (Nov 14, 2016)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> I was just wondering what to do with the holes that tip would leave if I removed it....




That's my thought.
Circumstance has made you and that bicycle collide at this moment, appreciate it's character and embrace the uniqueness.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

rustjunkie said:


> That's my thought.
> Circumstance has made you and that bicycle collide at this moment, appreciate it's character and embrace the uniqueness.



Absolutely! I knew that, but sometimes I get ahead of myself and need to be reminded to slow down and appreciate things for what they are. Thank you!


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> Front fender is not original to that bike. The Fender on it is for a truss fork
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Nov 14, 2016)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> View attachment 383355 View attachment 383353



Yep...I'm sure. Truss fork threads through center of fork

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## rustjunkie (Nov 14, 2016)

Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> Yep...I'm sure. Truss fork threads through center of fork
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk




Agreed, but it looks like that fender has been with the bike for some time, doesn't it?


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi (Nov 14, 2016)

rustjunkie said:


> Agreed, but it looks like that fender has been with the bike for some time, doesn't it?



It does

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## island schwinn (Nov 14, 2016)

Looks like late 47/early 48?


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

island schwinn said:


> Looks like late 47/early 48?



Nice! That's good to know


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> Yep...I'm sure. Truss fork threads through center of fork
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk



Yes but the dimple or indention for the fork on this fender I have that is off of a truss bike is wider and flatter, but the one on the maroon bike is narrow and curved deep to fit the springer leg perfectly. Not arguing by any means, just confused. And I value your info.


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## johnboy (Nov 14, 2016)

You have a nice bike and I am guessing it is a 1946 based on the letter "B" on the bottom bracket.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

johnboy said:


> You have a nice bike and I am guessing it is a 1946 based on the letter "B" on the bottom bracket.



Awesome! Thank you, I appreciate it.


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## keith kodish (Nov 14, 2016)

B serial number would place it early/mid 1947. Front fender IS wrong,not original to the bike.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Ok thank you


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## Vintage Paintworx (Nov 14, 2016)

Is the fender not original to the bike? Or, is the springer not original to the bike? Or, did they just slap it together like that at the factory and call it a day? Aww who cares!


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Vintage Paintworx said:


> Is the fender not original to the bike? Or, is the springer not original to the bike? Or, did they just slap it together like that at the factory and call it a day? Aww who cares!



Hard to say. Like I said, those dimples fit the springer legs like a glove. What puzzles me is the hole in the top of the fender that doesn't line up with the little mounting bracket. Either way, it's all aged together and has obviously been together for awhile and will stay that way. I love it the way it is.


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## WES PINCHOT (Nov 14, 2016)

FIRST OFF, CONGRATS!
NICE FIND FOR A RIDER OR TO REHAB IT.
I WOULD CONCUR, THAT IT IS POSSIBLY A '46. (BASED ON SERIAL NUMBER).
DOES THE KICK STAND TAPER FROM THE TOP TO THE BOTTOM? (OFTEN CALLED A PENCIL POINT STAND THAT WAS EARLY '46).
THE RIMS ARE PROBABLY FLAT TOP LOBDELL RIMS USED ON DELUXE BIKES BY SCHWINN
IN LATE PREWAR WWII AND EARLY '46.( BEFORE THE S-2 RIMS IN '48)

AS FAR AS THE FENDER GOES IT IS INDENTED FOR A TUBULAR TRUSS ROD FORK. (USED FROM '46 - '48).
NOTICE THAT THE FORWARD MOUNTING HOLE FOR THAT STYLE FORK. ALSO THE 'DOUBLE INDENT' IN THE FENDER AT THE FORK ARMS.  THERE IS ALWAYS THE POSSIBILITY THAT THE FRONT FENDER WAS PUT ON AT THE FACTORY
IN THE ABSENCE OF THE CORRECT ONE JUST TO KEEP PRODUCTION GOING.  IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE RIDE.  THERE IS ALSO THE POSSIBILITY THE DEALER MAY HAVE PUT THE
FENDER ON THE BIKE AS A REPLACEMENT OF A DAMAGED ONE.

THE BLUE FENDER PIC POSTED WAS USED FOR THE KNIFE BLADE TRUSS ROD FORKS USED ON THE LESS DELUXE BIKES. (OFTEN CALLED ASHTABULA )SP?

THERE IS NO REASON YOU CANNOT ENJOY CLEANING AND DETAILING THE BIKE AND ENJOYING A GREAT RIDE.
THE US ROYAL MASTER TIRES WERE ALSO AN EARLY POSTWAR DELUXE FIVE RIB TIRE.

ENJOY!


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

WES PINCHOT said:


> FIRST OFF, CONGRATS!
> NICE FIND FOR A RIDER OR TO REHAB IT.
> I WOULD CONCUR, THAT IT IS POSSIBLY A '46. (BASED ON SERIAL NUMBER).
> DOES THE KICK STAND TAPER FROM THE TOP TO THE BOTTOM? (OFTEN CALLED A PENCIL POINT STAND THAT WAS EARLY '46).
> ...



Now it get it! I was imagining the truss bar Ashtabula style forks when that was being said. What they were talking about was the one that has the loop for the truss rods to go through. Thanks for clearing that up! Thank you Wes, I'll be contacting you for some keys as soon as loxking springer I ordered (for another bike) arrives in the mail. Thanks to all who have commented and educated me. I really appreciate the info.


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## Dave K (Nov 14, 2016)

Rad bike.  Paint the headlight cover and ride the wheels off of it.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 14, 2016)

Thsnks Dave, tgsrs what I intend to do!


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 15, 2016)

*Thats what I intend to do.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 21, 2016)

Question to all of those who helped me with info on this bike. I have a friend who has a nicer one with blue and white original paint and I really want to buy it. What is a realistic price that I can ask for this bike? I paid a lot for it (in my opinion), and I obviously want to get my money back. But if I sell it, what can I realistically hope to get for it? This is seeking info and not for sale at this point, so I don't believe I am breaking any forum rules, I'm just trying to get realistic info. If I am, please let me know. Thank you.


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## Dave K (Nov 21, 2016)

I am thinking $700ish

Both of this went for a bit more but had still had the racks

http://m.ebay.com/itm/1950-Schwinn-...3A8a360c281580a357cdaa554cffef5713%7Ciid%3A11

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Schwi...Bicycle-Tank-/172387115881?nav=WATCHING_ENDED


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 21, 2016)

Dave K said:


> I am thinking $700ish
> 
> Both of this went for a bit more but had still had the racks
> 
> ...



Sad to even consider and it goes against all I believe in. But parting it out will surely yield more money. I paid $900 for it. I had a feeling I overpaid, but it was an emotional purchase and I didn't have much time to think on it. I don't know what to do, but I want to find a one in nicer original condition.


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## Dave K (Nov 21, 2016)

Would be a shame to part it out.  You might get more then $700 for it complete.  Please let some others weigh in on price before you make a decision on it.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 21, 2016)

Dave K said:


> Would be a shame to part it out.  You might get more then $700 for it complete.  Please let some others weigh in on price before you make a decision on it.



Oh yeah for sure. Believe me, I don't want to part it out. That would kill me and make me a hypocrite. I gripe at friends all the time for parting old bikes out. I just want one in a little nicer shape and in a color I want. This one's condition isn't good enough for me to leave alone and keep as a rider. Even if I can trade it and some money for a bike in the condition I want, I'd be happy to do it. I'll let some people give me some opinions and hopefully steer me in the right way. Thank you for your reply.


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## Freqman1 (Nov 22, 2016)

Sometimes you just have to swallow your lumps and chalk  it up to a learning experience. That is probably the case here because I think $700 would be about top money and somewhere in the $550-600 range would be a sale in my opinion. V/r Shawn


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 22, 2016)

I totally understand that, but I would definitely part it out before I'd take a $300 loss. I'll just feel it out and decide what to do based on people's suggestions. If anyone reading this has any solid requests for anything on the bike, let me know. Like I said, it's not the route I want to go, but I can't spend $300 to learn a lesson.


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## Freqman1 (Nov 22, 2016)

I think squeezing $900 in parts might be tough and it will take a while but good luck. V/r Shawn


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## bikewhorder (Nov 22, 2016)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> I can't spend $300 to learn a lesson.



Can't never tried. You'd be surprised what you can do in this hobby in terms of wasting money. Especially when you go in knowing you are probably paying too much.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 22, 2016)

bikewhorder said:


> Can't never tried. You'd be surprised what you can do in this hobby in terms of wasting money. Especially when you go in knowing you are probably paying too much.



I've learned that a few times over already, lol


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## frankster41 (Nov 22, 2016)

Wow you made some mistakes and now you want to pull a rabbit out of the hat.
Parting a bike and expecting to recover money on an overpaid bike sounds like a crap shoot to me. The shipping on all the seperate parts will have to be absorbed somewhere. If you are expecting to get premium prices in a down market, maybe half your stuff sells and the other half doesn't
then you sit there with half a bike. What you gonna do with that? Don't get me wrong I am not trying to be Debbie Downer here. The solution is simple here. Keep the maroon B6 and buy the other bike you want too. If thats a budgeting problem then you need to re-align your thinking.


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## rustjunkie (Nov 22, 2016)

WES PINCHOT said:


> As far as the fender goes it is indented for a tubular truss rod fork. (used from '46 - '48).
> Notice that the forward mounting hole for that style fork. Also the 'double indent' in the fender at the fork arms.  There is always the possibility that the front fender was put on at the factory
> In the absence of the correct one just to keep production going.  It will not affect the ride.  There is also the possibility the dealer may have put the
> Fender on the bike as a replacement of a damaged one.




This seems totally possible. Looking at the bike, is there anything to indicate that parts have been changed?
IMO this is a great bike that very well may have stories to tell that we're not yet ready to hear. If we consider the fender to be original to this bike: change it or part it out and you've destroyed an interesting anomaly.
"Catalog correct" sure seems to be a myopic view that has proved to be flawed time and time again.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 22, 2016)

frankster41 said:


> Wow you made some mistakes and now you want to pull a rabbit out of the hat.
> Parting a bike and expecting to recover money on an overpaid bike sounds like a crap shoot to me. The shipping on all the seperate parts will have to be absorbed somewhere. If you are expecting to get premium prices in a down market, maybe half your garbage sells and the other half doesn't
> then you sit there with half a bike. What you gonna do with that? Don't get me wrong I am not trying to be Debbie Downer here. The solution is simple here. Keep the maroon B6 and buy the other bike you want too. If thats a budgeting problem then you need to re-align your thinking.



Garbage? Wasn't really looking for approval. Just collecting opinions. Yours is noted. Thank you.


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## frankster41 (Nov 22, 2016)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> Garbage? Wasn't really looking for approval. Just collecting opinions. Yours is noted. Thank you.



I did not use the word garbage a moderator must have overwrote the word I used. Did not mean to be harsh just hope you are cautious in what you do.
L8R


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 22, 2016)

frankster41 said:


> I did not use the word garbage a moderator must have overwrote the word I used. Did not mean to be harsh just hope you are cautious in what you do.
> L8R



I'm always cautious in what I do. In fact I just said earlier in this thread, that I wasn't going to do anything drastic right away and I didn't want to part the bike out. I was trying to gather  opinions from some people whose opinions I respect. What I wasn't looking was to be judged angrily for considering an option I have in re-cooping my money. Nor did I ever ask for your opinion on how I budget my money. I was looking for pros and cons for doing it. So you did come off harsh and judging. All good tho. No hard feelings as I think you were just trying to get your point across. And like I said, your opinion is noted. I definitely have some thinking to do.


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## Dale Alan (Nov 22, 2016)

Damn,if everyone parted out bikes they thought they overpaid for there would not be many left whole . My opinion is leave it whole,it's not the bikes fault ...


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## rustjunkie (Nov 22, 2016)

frankster41 said:


> I did not use the word garbage a moderator must have overwrote the word I used. Did not mean to be harsh just hope you are cautious in what you do.
> L8R




This wasn't moderator action, the forum software changes some words automatically.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Nov 22, 2016)

Dale Alan said:


> Damn,if everyone parted out bikes they thought they overpaid for there would not be many left whole . My opinion is leave it whole,it's not the bikes fault ...



This is true.


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## bikewhorder (Nov 22, 2016)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> This is true.



I'm not in favor of parting bikes but this is just a burgundy Schwinn B6. It's probably the only way you're going to get your money back out of it and I'm sure all the parts will be put to good use or at least they will find a nice place on the shelf for someone.


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## bob the bike seller (Nov 22, 2016)

frankster41 said:


> Wow you made some mistakes and now you want to pull a rabbit out of the hat.
> Parting a bike and expecting to recover money on an overpaid bike sounds like a crap shoot to me. The shipping on all the seperate parts will have to be absorbed somewhere. If you are expecting to get premium prices in a down market, maybe half your stuff sells and the other half doesn't
> then you sit there with half a bike. What you gonna do with that? Don't get me wrong I am not trying to be Debbie Downer here. The solution is simple here. Keep the maroon B6 and buy the other bike you want too. If thats a budgeting problem then you need to re-align your thinking.



sounds like good advice.........agreed


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## bob the bike seller (Nov 22, 2016)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> I'm always cautious in what I do. In fact I just said earlier in this thread, that I wasn't going to do anything drastic right away and I didn't want to part the bike out. I was trying to gather  opinions from some people whose opinions I respect. What I wasn't looking was to be judged angrily for considering an option I have in re-cooping my money. Nor did I ever ask for your opinion on how I budget my money. I was looking for pros and cons for doing it. So you did come off harsh and judging. All good tho. No hard feelings as I think you were just trying to get your point across. And like I said, your opinion is noted. I definitely have some thinking to do.



you werent cautious when you bought this bike, by your own words.....


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## jimbo53 (Dec 2, 2016)

Money won't make you happy, but riding a cool vintage bike will. Look beyond the temporal money vs value issue and don't let it spoil your enjoyment.  The school of hard knocks has its own tuition, and it looks like you just made your first installment. It won't be your last, but remember, first and above all, this hobby is about fun, enjoyment, meet and riding with fellow vintage bike enthusiasts and spinning a few wrenches. Nowhere does it say that overbuying has to be the be-all end-all bummer. Put it behind you, pump up the tires, go for a ride. That feeling of the wind in you hair (assuming you have some-many of us don't LOL!) and bugs in your teeth will remind you what it's all about. HAVE FUN!! THAT'S AN ORDER!!!


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 2, 2016)

Done! Thank you. I've already decided to keep it and just ride and enjoy it. After all, I bought it, I love it. I just needed to take a lesson in being happy with what I have instead of wanting what someone else has. I'm good now. Thanks for the great advice and the order, lol.


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## WES PINCHOT (Dec 2, 2016)

WHEN YOU BUY TO SATISFY A PASSION, THE PRICE YOU PAY IS IRRELEVANT BECAUSE
THE OWNERSHIP IS IMPORTANT AND THE RESALE VALUE OF THE BIKE IS NOT IMPORTANT.

DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT BUYING A BIKE UNLESS YOU LIKE IT AND WANT TO KEEP IT,
BECAUSE IF YOU HAVE TO SELL IT, YOU MAY NOT GET WHAT YOU PAID FOR THE BIKE.

NOW IF YOU BUY A BIKE AND WANT TO MAKE MONEY ON IT, THAT'S ANOTHER STORY.
THE MAXIMUM MONEY YOU SHOULD PAY CAN BE BASED ON WHAT YOU THINK YOU
CAN RESELL IT FOR AND MAKE A REASONABLE PROFIT WORTH YOUR INVESTMENT.

ANOTHER APPROACH TO MAKE MONEY ON IT.   BUY THE BIKE BASED ON WHAT YOU 
KNOW THE VALUE OF THE PARTS WOULD BE IF YOU WANT TO PART IT OUT TO MAKE 
A REASONABLE PROFIT OR AT LEAST GET YOUR MONEY BACK.

ENOUGH SAID?


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 2, 2016)

WES PINCHOT said:


> WHEN YOU BUY TO SATISFY A PASSION, THE PRICE YOU PAY IS IRRELEVANT BECAUSE
> THE OWNERSHIP IS IMPORTANT AND THE RESALE VALUE OF THE BIKE IS NOT IMPORTANT.
> 
> DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT BUYING A BIKE UNLESS YOU LIKE IT AND WANT TO KEEP IT,
> ...



Absolutely!


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## old hotrod (Dec 3, 2016)

Here is another option to help lessen the pain of learning and avoid the ire of this forum and collectors group...Tucson is not exactly thick with buyers and the prices quoted here are a bit on the low side and very dependent on location so...if you can swing it, buy the other bike or see if the seller will take payments or hold it for a while. Spend a little time very gently detailing/cleaning the current bike but do not touch up the paint. Buy up old bikes and parts from your area and cheap deals on ebay or whatever and build a bit of sellable inventory. After the new year, when people have recovered from Christmas and tax returns are coming in, bring the bike and the rest out to So Cal for the Long Beach Cycle Swap or the Cyclone Coasters Swap, Put an ad for the bike in the So Cal Craigslists a couple of weeks before the swap and see what happens. Chances are you will have fallen in love with it by then but if not, you just might sell it for what you have in it or at least closer, to someone who just might appreciate it...and buyers tend to pay up a bit when they can touch the bike and there is no shipping...


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 3, 2016)

old hotrod said:


> Here is another option to help lessen the pain of learning and avoid the ire of this forum and collectors group...Tucson is not exactly thick with buyers and the prices quoted here are a bit on the low side and very dependent on location so...if you can swing it, buy the other bike or see if the seller will take payments or hold it for a while. Spend a little time very gently detailing/cleaning the current bike but do not touch up the paint. Buy up old bikes and parts from your area and cheap deals on ebay or whatever and build a bit of sellable inventory. After the new year, when people have recovered from Christmas and tax returns are coming in, bring the bike and the rest out to So Cal for the Long Beach Cycle Swap or the Cyclone Coasters Swap, Put an ad for the bike in the So Cal Craigslists a couple of weeks before the swap and see what happens. Chances are you will have fallen in love with it by then but if not, you just might sell it for what you have in it or at least closer, to someone who just might appreciate it...and buyers tend to pay up a bit when they can touch the bike and there is no shipping...



That's actually a great idea. I have plenary of other inventory already so that's not an issue, lol. It would be a fun road trip and you're right, touching seeing and feeling something is always better than buying sight indeed so to speak. And California is always better for selling anything I've ever been in the hobby of than Az. Thanks for the idea, I like it.


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## Pantmaker (Dec 4, 2016)

I have kicked my own butt many times for not paying up for something that I really wanted... only to lose it altogether. Food for thought...differences of opinion on value and prices paid is exactly what communities like ours need to exist. If everyone was motivated by the same price opinions, nothing would every be bought or sold. Embrace our differences of opinion. They motivate us to transact with each other.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 4, 2016)

Pantmaker said:


> I have kicked my own butt many times for not paying up for something that I really wanted... only to lose it altogether. Food for thought...differences of opinion on value and prices paid is exactly what communities like ours need to exist. If everyone was motivated by the same price opinions, nothing would every be bought or sold. Embrace our differences of opinion. They motivate us to transact with each other.



Absolutely, I agree totally


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## Goldenrod (Dec 11, 2016)

Do you want to loose the fender tip to me?


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 11, 2016)

Damn, I literally sold it to a friend an hour ago. Sorry man.


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Dec 11, 2016)

I can ask him if he wants to part with it and give him your phone number or give you his if he does? Let me know.


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