# Building wood wheels tonight!



## Iverider (May 9, 2013)

Anyone have an tips, tricks, or secrets to building a wood wheel?

I got my CBs from Filmonger two weeks ago and my spokes from Wheel Fanatyk last week, now I need to put them together so I can ride!

I have conical spoke washers with the rims but the directions I received didn't say which way they should be inserted—Just that they should be doubled up.

It seems they would push in easiest if the narrower part inserts first and they are too large to put in the other direction.

I've built a number of modern Alloy wheels and I'll be using my trusty Park TS2.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (May 9, 2013)

I just bought a set of Stutzman hickory clinchers from Filmonger for my Iver Johnson Truss Bridge. 
It would be interesting to see photos of your build process.


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## Iverider (May 10, 2013)

Dammit. Wrong Nipples.

How many times have you heard THAT in your life?


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## bricycle (May 10, 2013)

Reminds me of the Dana Carvey Show...pretended he was Bush feeding the masses.....
Great show, sorry they took it off!


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## filmonger (May 10, 2013)

*RE: Wood rim build*

There are quite a few things to keep in mind when you build your wooden wheels - Old and New.

Keep in mind not to put too much tension on the spokes - they will pop through. Only use the recommended tensions and allow the rim to rest and retrue at least overnight - even better a day or two ...with about three attempts at retruing.

Wood is dynamic and has memory hence the need for the rims to settle.

Wood likes the cross three pattern
Wood likes less tension - 50-60kgf
Some retruing is Necessary due the the dynamic nature of wood. They respond to temperature and humidity. Wood needs time to settle in - give them a few days or more and you can apply any needed correction after that period and your ready to go. Truing to about +/- 1.0mm is acceptable for wood.
Thread compound helps - Loctite is great
Tire Pressures around 65psi partially due to the design of the clincher rim without bead hooks.
Brake pads should be cork or carbon friendly - No black pads period. You can make your own if you like from cork or leather... It is not that hard.

Read the tips on Wheel Fanatyk's blog -

 Building wooden wheels

Look at all the tips on the wheelfanatyk blog - below are just a few of those tips ( they are all on the right side of the page in red. )

http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.ie
http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.ie/2007/09/some-basic-advice-for-building.html

Maint of wood wheels

http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.ie/2009/12/seasonal-wood-rim-maintenance.html

Spoke lengths:

CB Italia has a great spoke calculator on its web site: http://www.edgarjakobs.de/cbitalia/raggi_cbitalia.htm

Also have a look at Ricks blog as well: http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.ie

Some do not like the look of stainless spokes on vintage bikes - I have been told that if you take steel wool to them and distress them it looks a lot like nickel..... I have not tried this myself.

Lastly - if you feel a little uneasy about it and need some advice.... talk to one of the best wheel builders in the country. Rick at Wheel Fanatyk or Jude at Sugar Wheel Works the best. She has built a quite few wooden wheels ( not as many as Rick from wheel fanatyk ) and knows her stuff. Here is her info: http://www.sugarwheelworks.com
3808 N Williams Portland, OR 97227 
Tel. 503-236-8511
hello@sugarwheelworks.com


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## Machine Age Victim (May 10, 2013)

Thanks for all the info!!! Is crossing the inner and outer spokes ok on a three cross wheel? I find that helps with strength (especially on a drum or coaster brake wheel) and I'd imagine it would help build strength on a low tension spoke.


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## Gary Mc (May 10, 2013)

Machine Age Victim said:


> Thanks for all the info!!! Is crossing the inner and outer spokes ok on a three cross wheel? I find that helps with strength (especially on a drum or coaster brake wheel) and I'd imagine it would help build strength on a low tension spoke.




Go over, over, under with three cross pattern.


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## Machine Age Victim (May 10, 2013)

Gary Mc said:


> Go over, over, under with three cross pattern.




Thanks, that's what I was implying, just wanted to make sure that worked with the tension numbers.


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## filmonger (May 10, 2013)

*RE: Stuzman*

Oh - I forgot to say that those who have the Stutzman wooden rims with metal inserts should take about the same spoke tension as your basic metal rim. Keep it at the low end of Metal rim tension though - The recommended tension for spokes in metal bicycle wheels can be as low as 70 - 80 Kilograms force (Kfg) - But the Metal inserts should be able to take higher tension without any issues. Just remember different woods act slightly differently and that rim construction plays a part toooo! So you will have to use a little zen. With Stutzman rims he does not always put the metal seam opposite the stem hole. Just another factor to keep in mind


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## Larmo63 (May 10, 2013)

I had really bad luck with the Stutzman wheels as far as mounting tires. I can't get them to 

seat, they just don't fit. 700 x 40c Electra Amsterdam tires don't want to bead correctly. Any

tips? If these tires don't work, I don't want the rims.


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## Gary Mc (May 10, 2013)

Machine Age Victim said:


> Thanks, that's what I was implying, just wanted to make sure that worked with the tension numbers.




Yes & that's what gives this pattern it's strength.


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## filmonger (May 10, 2013)

*Stutzman rims*

Lamo...Are they stutzman rims with metal inserts or just plain stutzman rims? Did you order them from me or direct from stutzman? Mine are based on a P35 rim profile. To my knowledge no one to date has had this issue - but it is a good thing to know for future ref.




Larmo63 said:


> I had really bad luck with the Stutzman wheels as far as mounting tires. I can't get them to
> 
> seat, they just don't fit. 700 x 40c Electra Amsterdam tires don't want to bead correctly. Any
> 
> tips? If these tires don't work, I don't want the rims.


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