# 1945-46 Schwinn Dx



## Just Jeff (Jan 20, 2022)

My first collectable bike, other than my old Quadangle which I won’t count, was the oddball 1946 Schwinn Dx with the tubular upper rear fender mount.
  I have been missing that bike, so I have decided to replace it with another one.
  Fun fact, my first one had an Our Own Hardware EZ Speed badge on it. And the new to me one also had an EZ Speed badge as well!
  Anyhow, I bought this frame from a fellow CABA member, Barry. Thanks again Barry!
  First pic is the frame when I received it a few months ago. Next couple pics are mocking up the collected parts purchased to recreate my first one.


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## Just Jeff (Jan 20, 2022)

I’ve got a locking springer and a matching Panther front fender for it as well, but I don’t have pics of them on my phone.

  Which brings us to today. Started stripping the paint to prepare it for a new resto-mod paint job. I say that because it will be a correct style paint job for the Dx, but not necessarily correct colors. And of course with chrome Panther fenders, because that’s how I built the original one all those years ago.
  These are pics of the almost bare frame. And I love the ghost of the original paint that’s still visible


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## Just Jeff (Jan 20, 2022)

And that’s the end point for today. That was just me and a razor blade peeling paint off the frame. Almost no original paint left, so it came off pretty easy. Ran out of paint stripper so that’s how I had to do it. Next step is the media blast cabinet, hopefully tomorrow, but it may have to wait until next week. We shall see how busy I am at work


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Jan 25, 2022)

I'm going to my scrap pile and see if I can build one of those bike stands with what's in there.


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## Just Jeff (Jan 25, 2022)

A friend found it in a trash pile! Simple but it works. And free was a price I could afford too.

I got busy at work, so I’ve not been able to get the frame bead blasted yet. Hoping it calms down and I can have it done by the end of the. Week


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## GTs58 (Jan 25, 2022)

Did that frame have the red oxide primer?


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## barneyguey (Jan 26, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> My first collectable bike, other than my old Quadangle which I won’t count, was the oddball 1946 Schwinn Dx with the tubular upper rear fender mount.
> I have been missing that bike, so I have decided to replace it with another one.
> Fun fact, my first one had an Our Own Hardware EZ Speed badge on it. And the new to me one also had an EZ Speed badge as well!
> Anyhow, I bought this frame from a fellow CABA member, Barry. Thanks again Barry!
> ...



You bet Jeff. I always wanted to fix that bike up. I'm glad someone is doing it. Have a great day. Barry


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## Just Jeff (Jan 26, 2022)

I found no traces of the red primer on this frame. That would help explain how the rams head/ fireball/ whatever you want to call it ghosting on the bare metal


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## GTs58 (Jan 26, 2022)

No primer? So the frame was stripped before that other red was applied?

Here's a frame I chemically stripped and nothing but rust was left. Came from the SF Bay area. So a little sanding and sand blasting was needed to deal with that mess. My last time for doing a chemical strip.


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## Just Jeff (Jan 26, 2022)

No primer under what was left of the original dark red paint. As far as I can tell it was just painted the dark red and cream two tone without a primer coat


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## Just Jeff (Feb 1, 2022)

Not quite done with the frame, but got most of it bead blasted today. Had to get some chemical stripper for some spots the paint didn’t want to come off of.  Anyhow, here are a few detail shots of some of the joints


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## Just Jeff (Feb 1, 2022)

More pics


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## GTs58 (Feb 1, 2022)

Excellent! Love the shots of the BB. Rude N crude at the chain stays! Thank you.  👍

Edit: I'm still in disbelief that Schwinn didn't prime coat the frame!


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## Oilit (Feb 4, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> Excellent! Love the shots of the BB. Rude N crude at the chain stays! Thank you.  👍
> 
> Edit: I'm still in disbelief that Schwinn didn't prime coat the frame!



My '46? doesn't show any primer either. @Jeff54 has convinced me that the phosphate treatment is the only reason the steel isn't a solid coat of rust. Maybe the suppliers hadn't fully recovered from war-time restrictions and shortages?


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## GTs58 (Feb 4, 2022)

Oilit said:


> My '46? doesn't show any primer either. @Jeff54 has convinced me that the phosphate treatment is the only reason the steel isn't a solid coat of rust. Maybe the suppliers hadn't fully recovered from war-time restrictions and shortages?
> 
> View attachment 1563725
> 
> ...




The sheet metal not be primed really doesn't shock me, but the frames too? I've seen plenty of Schwinn tanks and fenders, and some guards with no primer over the years but it's somewhat disturbing to see that the frames didn't get primed. Was there something Schwinn learned during war time other than the acid dip that primed/preserved the metal? _Was this just with the red colors only? _Years ago I was told by Momo that I was crazy when I said that Schwinn didn't use the red primer on some bikes during and around the 1963 production. This was mainly on the new Flamboyant Red pieces. I have a 63 Flambo Red Corvette and when I stripped the fork there was no primer. The frame was not stripped but I could see there was definitely no primer on the frame either. I did some searching and found quite few other 63's that had no red oxide primer, including a few Varsitys were they were only showing the aluminum base coat after all the paint was faded or fell off. I still believe that during that time Schwinn was experimenting with a new paint that was a primer and the silver/aluminum base coat all in one for the candy colored paint. Stamped sheet metal is smooth and no grinding or sanding required, but a frame is cleaned up after being built and the primer helps fill in some of the flaws like the sanding/grinding marks and the primer has been said to be sanded before painting the frames. I had a mess of pictures on these 63 Flamboyant Red pieces on the Schwinn Bike Forum, but they are long gone.


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## Jeff54 (Feb 5, 2022)

Oilit said:


> My '46? doesn't show any primer either. @Jeff54 has convinced me that the phosphate treatment is the only reason the steel isn't a solid coat of rust. Maybe the suppliers hadn't fully recovered from war-time restrictions and shortages?
> 
> View attachment 1563725
> 
> ...



Humbly, tks for the mention. However, I would not take credit, as to referring  this Schwin, nor consider that I made an effort to 'convince' as, that's awfully strong word. However, I know that Olit and I have discussed the subject and how it helps prevent rust and it was a primary raw coating that is known of their 1st coating and painting process in the 50's or 60's, to be sure. And  we've discussed the potential of another bike he has, Shelby, where there's heavy paint loss that virtually, for lack of better description, has peeled off in areas you would not want to occur on any bike or whatever and also appears that; there's no rust or primer under it. So, on his Shelby, it suggested the possibility.

And to add to that, you've got  what appears to be post war 46-7? DX without primer as well. That's one I would have never expected to see.


And, while I have not explored this possibility; it causes me to wonder if that's what the 90's Schwinn China bikes did and are doing before paint to cut costs: no primer just rust inhibitors like that. ?

Enter long-winded part, Disclaimer: If you try this, do it  at your own risk :

Another point of interest for further evaluations, for those who may be considering raw metal prep on restoration projects with Oxalic acid in rust removal and old original paint brightener dips. :  Take worse case; A Tubular Schwinn rim or Springer legs and struts? , you'll never really know what happens inside unless ya waist one and chop it up to see.

On consideration regarding raw metal rust inhibitors is that; I'm currently experimenting with Oxalic acid. Perhaps it has the same qualities as Phosphates.

A rusted-up mower part (battery tray) with quite a bit of rust from typical battery acid and constant exposure, B/C I leave my mower out all year. . I dipped it in pretty strong Oxalic acid because, I wanted it cleared quick! What rust that didn't come off after sanding and wire brush etc. turns near black. So, I neutralized it with baking soda. Spit! that works quick. However, all the rust color came back instantly! I tried again to get more off but couldn't, least I grind the sheet metal way to thin across the board.

Moreover, I was also considering what happens to bicycle parts, frames, fenders and wheels etc.? Now, after neutralizing the acid on the raw metal, I expect, back to rust color was not something ya want to do.  I've painted, worked on my own classic and old cars where there's areas you can't get behind, with  Rust-Oleum Primers  and or red led and or general primers and; that comes back to haunt U. So, I dipped again, rust went black which is what I've seen happen in Phosphate washes. Painted it with cheep priced Wally world Rust-Oleum that's not a primer, just regular gloss or semi.  (I know that; it's not as good over raw rust as they claim, by far.).  Anyways, it's quite a few months later now and it looks exactly as it did when I refurbished it.
Note: I do like that the  Rust-Oleum I used  took several days to harden. I also thought to put it out in the bright and extra HOT SW Florida Sun in an attempt to bake it  while fresh wet. Bad idea! It bubbled everywhere. I had to cool it off, and try sanding it out while it wasn't completely hard yet then spray again. . So, I waited a bit and placed it back in the sun. It did not harden still but at least, didn't friggen boil. Ha!

I did this for a neighbor friend, except had not tried my fresh wet idea, yet.  He'd asked me to spray his new factory primed Valance for his 81 Toyota truck. It was gloss Black in rattle can he'd bought, supposed to be, auto paint off Ebay. I managed to squeeze about 4 coats on it. Spray, wait a few minutes, spray, wait, etc. to prevent runs. I learned to spray as a kid, on my bikes, [wink]  It was still soft after 24 hours. I put it in hot sun. and It took a few weeks to finally lay down and get hard. Albiet, it was cooling at night, but Sun would make it soft during the day until as said, it finally laid down and dried hard in day time, really nice, hard and glossy. . He installed it, drove every day to construction jobs. U no? Dirt, mud, sand, dust, N crap places. U know a Valance mounts under the front grill and takes quite a bit of road rash too. In a year's time, no chips, scratches etc. I think, maybe, it cooked just right. Go figure? Alas, he sold it so, couldn't keep following up.

So, anyway, the cheap Rust-Oleum seems to behave the same as what I did to his Valance.  Vary slow to dry when multiple coats are laid. It was still soft, days later, but didn't have time to wait. It did though, finally laid down and harden weeks later too. Pretty sure, the heat kept it from dry completely, even after installed, Did I mention how HOT the beaming Son it gets? ]grin and my tray Feels good  as my friend's did.

Maybe, should I live long enough, or I get another mower and dump mine, to report back, maybe the Oxalic acid coat/dip will prove to act as phosphate treatment does. I mean, at least we know or should that, raw metal begins rusting as it cools. Raw thin chrome metal rusts for that, not to leave out is more porous then you'd think.

Yet the question remains for now. What happens inside tubular rims after a dip. What protection, if any, does an Oxalic acid dip on you rusty painted parts? Will, after a dip in O.A.,  the rust inside tubs come back and haunt U even worse? Can U bake a frame in sunlight? Or, an other Idear I been thunkin; make a Plexiglas container (Old school solar  water heating box)  to bake, like Schwinn and other did, paints hard and durable, in the sun too.
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.


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## Oilit (Feb 6, 2022)

Jeff54 said:


> Humbly, tks for the mention. However, I would not take credit, as to referring  this Schwin, nor consider that I made an effort to 'convince' as, that's awfully strong word. However, I know that Olit and I have discussed the subject and how it helps prevent rust and it was a primary raw coating that is known of their 1st coating and painting process in the 50's or 60's, to be sure. And  we've discussed the potential of another bike he has, Shelby, where there's heavy paint loss that virtually, for lack of better description, has peeled off in areas you would not want to occur on any bike or whatever and also appears that; there's no rust or primer under it. So, on his Shelby, it suggested the possibility.
> 
> And to add to that, you've got  what appears to be post war 46-7? DX without primer as well. That's one I would have never expected to see.
> 
> ...



Maybe "convinced' isn't the right word, but I didn't understand how the steel stayed as clean as it is until you mentioned the phosphate. Credit where credit's due.


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## Just Jeff (Feb 8, 2022)

Still busy at work so I’m not finished cleaning the frame yet.
   I did talk to a friend who also has an original paint 45-46 oddball Dx. His bike also has no signs of a primer coat on the frame/fork. 
   His and mine are the first two I’ve encountered that don’t appear to have the primer


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## barneyguey (Feb 8, 2022)

Oilit said:


> My '46? doesn't show any primer either. @Jeff54 has convinced me that the phosphate treatment is the only reason the steel isn't a solid coat of rust. Maybe the suppliers hadn't fully recovered from war-time restrictions and shortages?
> 
> View attachment 1563725
> 
> ...



What's that badge say? Thank you. Barry


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## YenkoStingerMaxx (Feb 8, 2022)

Very cool!


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## Oilit (Feb 9, 2022)

barneyguey said:


> What's that badge say? Thank you. Barry



"American Standard, Columbus Cycle and Sporting Goods, Columbus Ohio"


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## Just Jeff (Feb 15, 2022)

Think I’m now done stripping paint. There are a few spots I just couldn’t get to, but they are mostly hidden so I’m ok with it.


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## Just Jeff (Feb 15, 2022)

I did find an interesting thing on both the rear inner dropouts. Looks like 9112 and 9113


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## GTs58 (Feb 15, 2022)

Love the pictures! Looks like some extra welding around the chain stays, or possibly some kind of attempt to clean up the slag? I didn't realize Schwinn was stamping the drop out part numbers that early. 😎 shots!


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## Oilit (Feb 16, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> Think I’m now done stripping paint. There are a few spots I just couldn’t get to, but they are mostly hidden so I’m ok with it.
> View attachment 1571205
> 
> View attachment 1571206
> ...



Love these pictures! It's fascinating to see which joints were "electroforged" and how many were still being brazed!


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## Just Jeff (Feb 22, 2022)

Got a few dents taken care of. And the rear wheel drop outs are now fixed. Lost the number stamp on one side as it was too close to the damage, but a safe wheel mount area is more important to me. Especially since this will not be a full restoration project. More of a resto-mod. Correct paint scheme, but a prewar color combo and reverse scheme paint.  Then add the Panther fenders to that mix. Should be a fun project when I get some time to paint it. Hoping to at least have some primer on it this week.


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## GTs58 (Feb 22, 2022)

Don't forget to spray that down with some metal prep, phosphoric acid, before the primer goes on. 😉


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## Just Jeff (Mar 10, 2022)

As is my usual m.o. I decided to change up on the fenders. I liked the idea of painted fenders more than the chrome Panther fenders.
  A set of fenders was bought, and the rear was modified to fit the odd spacing of the early postwar frame. When I’m done you won’t be able to tell is was changed


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## Just Jeff (May 23, 2022)

Progress finally! Primer on the frame is done.


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## GTs58 (May 23, 2022)

What primer did you use? I like that oxide red shade, and it looks like it will sand easy.


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## Just Jeff (May 24, 2022)

This is what I used. Since I’m just building a rider, I went with spray paint instead of automotive paint.


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## Just Jeff (Jun 4, 2022)

Frame is painted. Though I’m not 100% happy with it. The stencils didn’t work great, but it’s just a rider quality bike so I’ll live with it I guess.
After going through several paint schemes, I saw a Dx in red/black and really liked that look, so that is what I settled on. Forks have been painted black already, and the red striping will be done next week. Hoping to have time to get the fenders ready for primer and paint this coming week also


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## GTs58 (Jun 4, 2022)

Black with Red detailing is one of my favorites and they really catch your attention. 👍


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## Oilit (Jun 5, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> Frame is painted. Though I’m not 100% happy with it. The stencils didn’t work great, but it’s just a rider quality bike so I’ll live with it I guess.
> After going through several paint schemes, I saw a Dx in red/black and really liked that look, so that is what I settled on. Forks have been painted black already, and the red striping will be done next week. Hoping to have time to get the fenders ready for primer and paint this coming week also
> View attachment 1639746
> 
> ...



That's odd, it looks like all the stencils came out fine except one. But still, I doubt anybody will notice unless they're looking for nits to pick.


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## Just Jeff (Jun 5, 2022)

Close up pics reveal the bad, and that’s why no close up pics were shown. But here is one of the bad spots and my louse pin paint attempt at correcting it. That happened on 4 of the 6 sides in one way or another. Like I said, it’s a rider so it will be good enough for me


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## Freqman1 (Jun 5, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> Close up pics reveal the bad, and that’s why no close up pics were shown. But here is one of the bad spots and my louse pin paint attempt at correcting it. That happened on 4 of the 6 sides in one way or another. Like I said, it’s a rider so it will be good enough for me
> 
> View attachment 1640446



You can probably rub that off, take some fine line masking tape to create that portion and reshoot it pretty easily. I like the color scheme. V/r Shawn


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## Just Jeff (Jun 17, 2022)

Quick update on my Dx. Forks are finally done. And the badge is in place now. Now to find time to do everything else


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## tacochris (Jun 17, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> Close up pics reveal the bad, and that’s why no close up pics were shown. But here is one of the bad spots and my louse pin paint attempt at correcting it. That happened on 4 of the 6 sides in one way or another. Like I said, it’s a rider so it will be good enough for me
> 
> View attachment 1640446



You did a really good job on that frame man you should be proud! 

Little side note hack i wanted to share:
On the B6 Im currently painting, I had a little booger happen where a d@mn board I was using to prop the frame up fell and nicked the underside of the downtube literally 30 minutes after the last coat.  I waited until it was flashed and dry to the touch, scuffed the spot with red scotchbrite and reshot only that one area and it came out perfect.  Cant even tell it happened.


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## Just Jeff (Jun 20, 2022)

I thought I found a good rear hub for the Dx. 1st quarter 1946 dated Morrow. Seemed to work ok, so I disassembled it for a good cleaning. Poor hub led a rough life.


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## Just Jeff (Jun 20, 2022)

Trying to stay positive. At least all the internal parts were dated P1 so they were original to the hub. And kind on cool it had a blackout dust cover on it too. 
 At least it will look good sitting in my Morrow hub cabinet as the cabinet has led a rough life too!


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## Rocket Man (Jun 21, 2022)

A little trick I picked up from a pro painter some time ago. Once you make sure your marks are burnished down tight spray light coats of clear over them so any bleeding will be clear and not show, the clear acts as a seal too. 
Not sure if this is your issue but maybe it will help someone out there?
Jeff you will forget the flaws (that mostly you see) especially when the wind is causing you eyes to water at speed. 
Looks good from here, great color choice BTW.


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## Just Jeff (Jul 14, 2022)

Wheels are done. Didn’t take a pic of the front one though. Now to finish everything else!


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## Just Jeff (Jul 28, 2022)

Rear fender done finally! Had to repaint it twice, but I’m happy with it now


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## Jeff54 (Jul 28, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> As is my usual m.o. I decided to change up on the fenders. I liked the idea of painted fenders more than the chrome Panther fenders.
> A set of fenders was bought, and the rear was modified to fit the odd spacing of the early postwar frame. When I’m done you won’t be able to tell is was changed
> View attachment 1586064
> 
> ...



Oh, so, that's where and exactly what it is about 45/46-ers rear fender mount hole and indent fitting alignment. 

I been wondering about that for years. Not as if I needed one but just curious. Lucky U be doing all the metal work otherwise, it ain't like U gonna be bumping into one easily.


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## Just Jeff (Aug 17, 2022)

Funny you should say that. I actually did find a correct rear fender for the bike last week. But this one has already been modified so it will stay. I will just keep the oddball fender for the next 45-46 Dx that finds its way to me.

Front fender is done and installed. Also a placeholder chain guard is on until I get the small feather painted. Front wheel is not on yet because I need to locate a new axle and bearing races for the hub. So another temporary wheel is installed just to get the bike upright and off my stand. Starting to look like something now!


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## Just Jeff (Aug 29, 2022)

Front wheel finally installed! Looks so much better now.
 Still need to paint the tank and the chainguard, but it’s getting closer. And now I’m trying to decide wether to put a rack on it or not. Decisions decisions


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## Just Jeff (Oct 28, 2022)

Just a small update for today. Handlebars, grips, seat post and seat installed.
Still need to make time to paint my tank and the other chain guard to match, but it’s looking pretty darn good so far


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## Just Jeff (Nov 21, 2022)

Correct chain guard now on. May decide to redo the striping, but I wanted to see it on the bike


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## BFGforme (Nov 21, 2022)

Do them red, that would look great!!


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## GTs58 (Nov 22, 2022)

BFGforme said:


> Do them red, that would look great!!




I wonder what that would look like? I like the white on the rims. Thinner pins in white on the guard would tie in with the pins on the wheels. I'm 50/50 on the color. The Schwinn guard decal might help in making this decision. 😉


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## Just Jeff (Nov 22, 2022)




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## Just Jeff (Nov 23, 2022)




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## BFGforme (Nov 24, 2022)

Just Jeff said:


> View attachment 1738373



Perfect


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## Big Moe (Nov 25, 2022)

Oilit said:


> My '46? doesn't show any primer either. @Jeff54 has convinced me that the phosphate treatment is the only reason the steel isn't a solid coat of rust. Maybe the suppliers hadn't fully recovered from war-time restrictions and shortages?
> 
> View attachment 1563725
> 
> ...



Mine looks the same.


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## JLF (Nov 25, 2022)

Cool project and great thread!  I need to keep an eye open for one of these.


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## GTs58 (Nov 26, 2022)

I'm leaning towards the red pins on the guard. Schwinn painted these pins on the rim of the valley and not in the valley itself. And no trim paint on the raised circle. I'd say the pins are no wider than an 8th inch. I have a Coach Green piece but can't located it in my mess. Since the pin is on the bottom rim, they get wiped off pretty easy over the years. Went thru half the DX thread and didn't find a good close-up example from the ones that still had paint on them. This is the best I could find. Early piece, probably a late 45 or early production 46, black out rear hub and early stand angle.


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