# 1904 Pierce model 501



## rusty_apache (Jul 6, 2021)

21” frame
7” crank
# 53 Bridgeport rat traps
Whitney chain
It’s supposed to be geared at 84.8”
The sprocket are 24 and 8 tooth.


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## Freqman1 (Jul 6, 2021)

1994?


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## locomotion (Jul 7, 2021)

nice find, seems to be in pretty good shape, love that "Hussey" adjustable stem
can you please post a close-up picture of how the seat frame attaches the rear "C" frame (I have been trying to ID one of my seat frame for years and this one looks pretty close)


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## rusty_apache (Jul 7, 2021)

One of my best friends texted me a link to the Auction. They began the bidding at $1000 and I got nervous and only waited for him to go down to $600 before jumping in. I could have gotten it much CHEAPER but if a bidding war had broken out, it could have gone past $600.

I’m just thrilled with it and the Auctioneer will be more likely to bring more old bikes from the eastern seaboard again in the future, knowing that it pays off. 

Let me know if you need another perspective on the seat post. 





The collar is affixed to the outer expansion sleeve and swivels. Thanks to fellow CABErs, I already have the correct spanner in my tool collection!


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## rusty_apache (Jul 7, 2021)

Freqman1 said:


> 1994?



It’s just my stubby digits and tiny keyboard!


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## gkeep (Jul 7, 2021)

Very nice! Can you add the serial number to the Pierce Serial # thread? With a date of 1904 it would be nice to add your new beauty to the list.

Are those traces of nickel on the fork crown? Do you know if this model come with nickeled forks as an option?


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jul 7, 2021)

Possibly a racer


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## rusty_apache (Jul 8, 2021)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> Possibly a racer



I wish. 
unfortunately the nickeling seems to end distinctly below the crown and the head tube is painted Carmine, so it’s just a lowly 501. I’m still just giddy about it because the geometry is similar to my Wasp, which is my most regularly ridden pneumatic safety. Also it doesn’t strike me as having a whole lot of miles on it. Although I’ll know more later when I service it!


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## rusty_apache (Jul 8, 2021)

gkeep said:


> Very nice! Can you add the serial number to the Pierce Serial # thread? With a date of 1904 it would be nice to add your new beauty to the list.
> 
> Are those traces of nickel on the fork crown? Do you know if this model come with nickeled forks as an option?



Thank you!
Yes, I sensed I was hijacking the serial number thread, but I did post a photograph of it there, before I created this one.

The traces of nickel are correct for the model 501 but somebody added some upgrades.
The catalog says standard gearing is 84.8. It has a 24 tooth and a mn 8 tooth. I vaguely remember seeing a chart that shows the ratios of different sprockets but I can’t remember where I saw it. just wondering if the gearing was altered.
It came with #211 reversible bars and there’s no inscription on the stem. So I’m wondering if Hussey made the #211 bars for Pierce, or if they were simply added.

edit:

after more study I realized that theory was all wet because they offered the Hussey bars on the 511 Special and the #211 bars were entirely different.
I also found confirmation that 24/8 sprockets is roughly 84” gearing. It also has the optional aluminum finished rims.


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## Pondo (Jul 9, 2021)

That's a mighty fine ride there, Kevin.  I can certainly see why you jumped on it. It will be a nice compliment to your beautiful Wasp.  Congrats!


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## rusty_apache (Jul 10, 2021)

Pondo said:


> That's a mighty fine ride there, Kevin.  I can certainly see why you jumped on it. It will be a nice compliment to your beautiful Wasp.  Congrats!



Thanks man!
Here it is after a little cleanup and a proper saddle….






Most of the pinstriping is only a shadow.


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## rusty_apache (Jul 24, 2021)

Update…
The Fairbanks Boston front rim is “repaired “ and work on the rear wheel laminate has begun.




The laminate has separated in places  “repairs “ consisted of a low tension truing of the wheel then loosening all spokes 5 turns.(68 were easily freed thanks to a messy PROTECTIVE coating of tire cement, while four were a little troublesome)

Removing the spoke tension allows the laminate to separate as much as possible to allow more glue to flow into the cavity. The next step was to massage liberal amounts of heated, ordinary wood glue between the layers. Followed by installing the tubular tire, (wipe glue spooge,) fully inflate it, (wipe spooge,) tighten up the spokes three turns, (wipe spooge )and finally, lightly clamp all loose sections that spooge glue when you push them shut. I’m sure the repairs will hold but it’s possible that the unrepaired areas will soon shake loose. I’m going to have to watch and listen to them closely.
lots of cleaning, lubricants, adjustments and cementing yet to do but it has more dignity with tubulars.

these are photos of the rear rim. These shards are glued down now 








Robert Dean reminded me to maintain tire pressure for “non display purposes “ and in fact when I removed the rear tire from the Wasp, the rubber cement had failed in places. The tires look great and support my weight with zero air pressure, so putting a tire gauge on our Robert Dean’s periodically is a good idea when you enjoy your wood wheel bicycle.
















Lots yet to do before I can ride it, and no Wasp bicycles were permanently harmed in this resurrection. It’s getting the new red tubulars when they arrive!


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## rusty_apache (Jul 25, 2021)

I received a request for Pierce hub lacing details…






Think of a normal cross 3 lacing pattern but with a horizontal flange rather than vertical.


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## rusty_apache (Aug 7, 2021)

So I’ve given the pedals about an hour in the oxalic bath with good results but it looks like it could use more time.
Should I keep going and try to get it all?





Also does anyone know the trick for removing the crank bearing retainer plates without mangling them? Oops after wiping it off, putting on glasses and shining a light on it, it became clear it is a split ring.


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## gkeep (Aug 7, 2021)

Great work! You might try vinegar or citric acid on the pedals, might be gentler on the nickel plating. Maybe even soak in Simple Green but keep an eye on it. (that reminds me, I have a chain soaking in it I need to check)


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## rusty_apache (Aug 7, 2021)

gkeep said:


> Great work! You might try vinegar or citric acid on the pedals, might be gentler on the nickel plating. Maybe even soak in Simple Green but keep an eye on it. (that reminds me, I have a chain soaking in it I need to check)



Thanks! 
You can’t hurt that chain with simple green. 

 I like simple green and purple power as degreasers. They evaporate and you throw away the powder.

I’m going to just call them good for now just to be safe. Also I really want to ride it!


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## rusty_apache (Aug 9, 2021)

Everything is clean and lubricated so it’s time to glue the Robert Deans in place. I’ve lost track but these tires have been glued, removed and replaced three or four times now.

In a recent conversation with him he mentioned not to ride without positive air pressure in the tires! They ride “softer” without air and that’s what makes them great for display but the pressure prevents the tire from “walking“ around the rim, causing the glue to fail and eventually they walk enough to shear off the valve stem.
So now I’m im the habit of paying attention to tire pressure before heading out!

Beginning 180 degrees from the valve stem, I take four clothespins and remove the steel springs. Then I lift up the tire and insert 6-7 clothespin halves in line with the spokes ( since I avoid applying glue to the spoke nipples) between the rim and tire, rolling the tire partially off the rim in order to apply the cement.








The curvature of the clothespin that would normally grip the laundry allows the rim to seat in it, as a pivot point.






Now the tire can be rolled partially from the rim exposing the rim for easy gluing!







you can’t quite get 90 degrees glued at a time, but almost. Stop and check for centered alignment on the rim and that the valve stem is not badly crooked. Then move to your original starting point, working back to the valve stem and carefully checking alignment as you go.
When you are through the valve stem should have normalized back in perfect alignment with the rim. If not don’t panic. Working your way around the tire, lift a pull in the proper direction to center the valve stem in the rim. Then inflate in order to firmly set the glue.




Here I pulled out the inner pins so that the tire can be centered onto the rim slowly and carefully as it suspends the tire above the until you are satisfied with the alignment. So far this seems to be the least messy approach to cementing tubulars! It’s taking me about 30 minutes per tire to get it done now!

Also thanks to the CABEr that sold me this bicycle wrench! It was invaluable for removing the bearings and for disassembling the crank arms!


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## Pondo (Aug 14, 2021)

Your Pierce is looking great!  It must be a real pleasure to ride too.  Nice method on the tire gluing too, that will come in handy if and when I get some Deans for mine, thanks!


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## fat tire trader (Aug 14, 2021)

I would put those pedals back in the OA and lightly scrub them with a tooth brush soaked in the OA.


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## rusty_apache (Dec 22, 2021)

I’ll have to give it a try.
Thanks!


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