# 2 Speed Parts



## Centurion (Sep 19, 2020)

Any  sellers of red band 2 speed hub parts? I have one starting to slip and feels like the high speed clutch may be gone. I can get a functioning donor bike, I just hate parting running schwinn's, and I can get whole bikes for the price of e bay hubs and wheels.

Thanks


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## Gordon (Sep 19, 2020)

I still have these for sale.









						Sold - Bendix 2 speed parts lot | Archive (sold)
					

Parts for automatics and manual 2 speed. Some parts are new and some are used. Fairly accurate inventory list shown. Plastic boxes not included, parts will be packaged in bags and shipped in priority flat rate boxes. Asking $200 shipped.




					thecabe.com


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## Centurion (Sep 20, 2020)

Thanks,

Probably would never use that many spares.


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## Gordon (Sep 20, 2020)

You could just pick out what you want and I'll sell you those pieces. Nobody seems to want the entire lot.


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## Centurion (Sep 20, 2020)

Thanks,

I'll disassemble it and try and determine what part is failing, I suspect the high speed clutch, the part with the teeth that engages the hub when peddling. Everything else seems to work fine, it shifts and low gear works good. There may be a few other things off, it makes rattly sounds as well.

Thanks


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## robert bell (Sep 20, 2020)

Got single NOS parts for all bendix, komet, perry, etc.


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## ricobike (Sep 21, 2020)

Centurion said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I'll disassemble it and try and determine what part is failing, I suspect the high speed clutch, the part with the teeth that engages the hub when peddling. Everything else seems to work fine, it shifts and low gear works good. There may be a few other things off, it makes rattly sounds as well.
> 
> Thanks




The rattly sounds are concerning.  Something could have broken off inside (bearing cage, brake disc) and will cause wear of other parts inside, including on one of mine, the treasured index spring.  The pieces can also lodge against the high speed clutch which will cause your slipping problem.  I'd break it open until you ride it any more.


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## Centurion (Sep 21, 2020)

Thanks, I'll need to fabricate a tool to get that nut off with.


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## Gordon (Sep 21, 2020)

Centurion said:


> Thanks, I'll need to fabricate a tool to get that nut off with.




I have the instructions on how to do this.


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## westwildcats (Sep 21, 2020)

robert bell said:


> Got single NOS parts for all bendix, komet, perry, etc.



Would you have a couple of fulcrum clamps for the Bendix lever shift you'd be willing to sell?  Think the part number is ms 77, but I'm not positive. Thanks, Greg.


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## Gordon (Sep 21, 2020)

westwildcats said:


> Would you have a couple of fulcrum clamps for the Bendix lever shift you'd be willing to sell?  Think the part number is ms 77, but I'm not positive. Thanks, Greg.



I believe ms77 is the cable clamp for the chain stay. If robert bell doesn't have them, I might.


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## Centurion (Sep 21, 2020)

ricobike said:


> The rattly sounds are concerning.  Something could have broken off inside (bearing cage, brake disc) and will cause wear of other parts inside, including on one of mine, the treasured index spring.  The pieces can also lodge against the high speed clutch which will cause your slipping problem.  I'd break it open until you ride it any more.




Funny thing about that hub is when it slips it locks it in high gear, if I loosen the chain, move the wheel forward, and then re-tighten it works OK again? I don't think if I took it apart I would  be able to determine which part is actually bad (unless I see a broken piece or bearing missing). These 2 speeds are very nice for hills, but that sound in low gear is really annoying ( I checked the chain guard and fender clearance, it sounded like that at first).


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## Two Wheeler (Sep 29, 2020)

Centurion said:


> Funny thing about that hub is when it slips it locks it in high gear, if I loosen the chain, move the wheel forward, and then re-tighten it works OK again? I don't think if I took it apart I would  be able to determine which part is actually bad (unless I see a broken piece or bearing missing). These 2 speeds are very nice for hills, but that sound in low gear is really annoying ( I checked the chain guard and fender clearance, it sounded like that at first).




I recently rebuilt a red band that I thought was toast. It was nearly impossible to peddle and disassemble because the grease had become like tar. It was disassembled, cleaned and lubed per Schwinn. It was very noisy when I rode it but worked fine. I took it apart again and used grease where Schwinn said to use oil. It worked fine and was considerably quieter.


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## Centurion (Sep 29, 2020)

Dan Shabel said:


> I recently rebuilt a red band that I thought was toast. It was nearly impossible to peddle and disassemble because the grease had become like tar. It was disassembled, cleaned and lubed per Schwinn. It was very noisy when I rode it but worked fine. I took it apart again and used grease where Schwinn said to use oil. It worked fine and was considerably quieter.




Thanks, I'll have to fabricate a tool to remove that nut one of these days, it will work and cruise around fine, but if I peddle hard up hill it will lock in high. Seems like a handy feature if I could get it to function properly and less noise, more than likely it will be "one of those days" projects I never get to.


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## MEKANIXFIX (Sep 29, 2020)

Hello stay safe! I have 2 yellow band hubs,and 1 was stuck in the high gear I use the Bendix schematic to open it, I found one broken spring that move the clutch up and got stuck, cleaned exchange and lubricate, I still running! Read the bottom line doesn't use other colors bands because the ratio changes!Good luck!


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## bloo (Sep 29, 2020)

The reason these don't work is they are full of crud. It light make less noise too if it was lubricated properly. I have not seen inside the yellow stripe one for decades, but had my red stripe apart recently. If you clean it and lubricate it per the manual it will probably just work. All that is really in there, other than the planetary gears (they could probably use lube too), is 2 coaster brake mechanism's with the little draggy spring, one mechanism per speed. There is only one actual brake. There is a third little draggy spring that does the shifting. I was watching it shift in my hand. It stops between  a groove it can drop into on one speed, and aligns itself to that groove on the other speed. If it does that, I think it works. You might have to shift it once on the way in when it goes together.

Inspect that lightest spring very closely, there are little tails on it that could conceivably wear off or break. But again, I was watching that part work in my hand. It wont drop while out of the hub like that, but you can see it stop aligned with a groove, and misaligned every other shift. It's not that hard to tell what is going on.

The tool to get the hub apart is reproduced and not terribly expensive. Look around the CABE for sale section and Ebay. On the other hand a large, stout right-angle snap ring pliers might work in a pinch. 

EDIT: Just saw Gordon's post about the tool. That looks easy to do as well.

Rebuild instructions are in the Schwinn manual here on the Cabe.


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