# Will Tange 26” Fork work for Prewar Schwinn Klunker?



## dave429 (Feb 9, 2021)

Looking to make a klunker from a prewar schwinn frame and wondering if these forks would work. They are newly made and come in two steer tube lengths. If they work what steer tube length would work best? Im think the smaller one but looking for your expertise. Thanks!


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## Nelgroe (Feb 9, 2021)

Yo! Thanks for the heads up on these forks! I immediately ordered one... I ordered the short one for post war frames.  I have a few SE Racing Landing Gear forks on builds and those fit post war without cutting, and they are apparently 10 mm shorter than these Tange. Pre war frames have shorter headtube, so maybe you"ll have to cut a little bit off if you get the 180... just my take...


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## dave429 (Feb 9, 2021)

Nelgroe said:


> Yo! Thanks for the heads up on these forks! I immediately ordered one... I ordered the short one for post war frames.  I have a few SE Racing Landing Gear forks on builds and those fit post war without cutting, and they are apparently 10 mm shorter than these Tange. Pre war frames have shorter headtube, so maybe you"ll have to cut a little bit off if you get the 180... just my take...



So your saying the shorter one should be good? I think the 180 mm is ~7” or so. The longer one seems so long. Thanks for the verification. Any idea what headset you will use?


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## Nelgroe (Feb 9, 2021)

Remember to add any spacer you use in the headset, like a brake cable thingy to your measurement. I usually use stock Schwinn headsets and also have had good luck with the aluminum one that porkchop sells as well. I'm excited for this fork, original Schwinn tubulars are hard to get, as are OG Tange, so we're basically left with Landing Gear. I have three Genuine Bicycle Products forks, but I think he is out of stock at the moment, those you definitely have to cut.


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## Nelgroe (Feb 9, 2021)

So just to verify 5 3/8" post war headtube is 136.5 mm and if you use the Neco alloy headset that Porkchop sells, and I have a few times, that is 41 mm leaving you with 177.5 mm and the Tange fork is 180 mm, so it will fit with a small cut or a small spacer or it will "just button up."  The Tange MX 320 headset is 40mm height. I dont know what the Schwinn headset stack height is, but it is great quality and you can get a nice clean one quite easily.  Your prewar is 5" headtube so that is even more in the clear.  Does my math line up?


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## dave429 (Feb 9, 2021)

Nelgroe said:


> So just to verify 5 3/8" post war headtube is 136.5 mm and if you use the Neco alloy headset that Porkchop sells, and I have a few times, that is 41 mm leaving you with 177.5 mm and the Tange fork is 180 mm, so it will fit with a small cut or a small spacer or it will "just button up."  The Tange MX 320 headset is 40mm height. I dont know what the Schwinn headset stack height is, but it is great quality and you can get a nice clean one quite easily.  Your prewar is 5" headtube so that is even more in the clear.  Does my math line up?



Sounds right to me. I just measured a few post war forks I have and they have a 7” steer tube. I think the 250mm steer tube is almost 10” long and would be way to long. I’m going to order a 180mm fork. Worst case scenario I will be able to sell in in the future for what I paid for it. 
Thanks for the info and advice!


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## Xlobsterman (Feb 10, 2021)

dave429 said:


> Looking to make a klunker from a prewar schwinn frame and wondering if these forks would work. They are newly made and come in two steer tube lengths. If they work what steer tube length would work best? Im think the smaller one but looking for your expertise. Thanks!
> 
> View attachment 1354843
> 
> View attachment 1354844




Just do as they mention in the ad....................measure your bikes head tube and head set.

Then if you do need to cut it, put the adjusting nut on the fork as a guide for a straight cut. Then use the adjusting nut to clean up any burs on the cut threads after you are done! Use a new hack saw blade to cut the tube, use a rattail file to clean up any burs on the inside of the tube, and you should be all good!


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## Danny the schwinn freak (Feb 12, 2021)

You can also use a Schwinn Sidewinder (chrome) or Cruiser (painted) fork for a direct bolt on fork. Also excellent quality and American made. I’ve got extras available if anyone needs a pair.


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## dave429 (Feb 12, 2021)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> You can also use a Schwinn Sidewinder (chrome) or Cruiser (painted) fork for a direct bolt on fork. Also excellent quality and American made. I’ve got extras available if anyone needs a pair.



Thanks! Will keep that in mind!


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## dave429 (Feb 12, 2021)

Xlobsterman said:


> Just do as they mention in the ad....................measure your bikes head tube and head set.
> 
> Then if you do need to cut it, put the adjusting nut on the fork as a guide for a straight cut. Then use the adjusting nut to clean up any burs on the cut threads after you are done! Use a new hack saw blade to cut the tube, use a rattail file to clean up any burs on the inside of the tube, and you should be all good!



Thanks for the info! Greatly appreciated!


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## Nelgroe (Feb 21, 2021)

@dave429 >>>Well, my fork arrived and I installed to this 58 Green Phantom frame. I had to cut maybe 4 mms using this particular headset... I ordered the shorter fork from porkchop...here are some pics...


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## Xlobsterman (Feb 21, 2021)

Nelgroe said:


> @dave429 >>>Well, my fork arrived and I installed to this 58 Green Phantom frame. I had to cut maybe 4 mms using this particular headset... I ordered the shorter fork from porkchop...here are some pics...
> 
> View attachment 1361547
> 
> ...




Nice looking fork! And I like that park tool............


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## 1motime (Feb 21, 2021)

Looks good.  That is a lot of contrast between old and new parts!


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## dave429 (Feb 21, 2021)

Nelgroe said:


> @dave429 >>>Well, my fork arrived and I installed to this 58 Green Phantom frame. I had to cut maybe 4 mms using this particular headset... I ordered the shorter fork from porkchop...here are some pics...
> 
> View attachment 1361547
> 
> ...



That looks great! I ordered the short fork too. Haven’t had time to mess with it yet, but glad to know it works out fine. Which headset did you end up using?


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## Nelgroe (Feb 21, 2021)

dave429 said:


> That looks great! I ordered the short fork too. Haven’t had time to mess with it yet, but glad to know it works out fine. Which headset did you end up using?



I used the Tange MX 320. It fits perfect in Schwinn headtube, nice and light with sealed bearings. Tange quality. I think about $45...Post a pic when you finish up!


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## dave429 (Feb 21, 2021)

Nelgroe said:


> I used the Tange MX 320. It fits perfect in Schwinn headtube, nice and light with sealed bearings. Tange quality. I think about $45...Post a pic when you finish up!



Would love to see yours complete as well!


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## Miq (Mar 13, 2021)

I ordered the shorter 180mm TX 500 fork, and the Neco 41mm old school BMX headset for my 1948 Columbia Urban Klunk Cruiser project.  I had to cut off about 7mm of the threads.  








Setting the crown race was fun.  Still waiting on bars and some other parts.


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## dave429 (Mar 13, 2021)

@Miq Cool Build. Thanks for the input on the size. Post up some pics when you get it complete!


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## Miq (Mar 13, 2021)

Thanks @dave429 I definitely will!


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## Miq (Mar 20, 2021)

Rode the 48 Columbia Urban Klunk Cruiser around today for the first time with my son. It’s a blast.


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## dave429 (Mar 20, 2021)

@Miq  That turned out awesome!


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## Miq (Mar 20, 2021)

Thanks @dave429 !!  It was fun to build and more fun to ride.


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## phillyc71 (Apr 8, 2021)

Danny the schwinn freak said:


> You can also use a Schwinn Sidewinder (chrome) or Cruiser (painted) fork for a direct bolt on fork. Also excellent quality and American made. I’ve got extras available if anyone needs a pair.



Danny, I’d be interested in the sidewinder forks if you still have them.


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