# Lacing a rear wheel



## Blueschwinns (May 9, 2012)

I purchased two Schwinn 26" S-2 rims and 10-5/8" spokes. I laced up the front rim/hub as a 4-cross and it came out perfect the first try. I am using a new Departure rear hub. I went through the lacing process making sure I had correctly twisted the hub. The first three sets of spokes seem to be perfect, but when I put in the fourth set they all seem to long. Aren't 10-5/8" spokes supposed to fit? I tried the online spoke chart but got lost in the measurements. Why do I have trouble with rear wheels?


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## redline1968 (May 9, 2012)

they are right for it. id go to 5 cross.


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## bricycle (May 9, 2012)

I've done 32 wheels from scratch, and I still haven't figured it out.....


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## MaxGlide (Jun 9, 2012)

If both your front and rear hub diameters are the same then the spoke length will be the same. I am pretty sure most front hubs are smaller than rear hubs so shorter spokes are likely needed.

Wayne


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## pgroah (Jun 10, 2012)

*spokes*



Blueschwinns said:


> I purchased two Schwinn 26" S-2 rims and 10-5/8" spokes. I laced up the front rim/hub as a 4-cross and it came out perfect the first try. I am using a new Departure rear hub. I went through the lacing process making sure I had correctly twisted the hub. The first three sets of spokes seem to be perfect, but when I put in the fourth set they all seem to long. Aren't 10-5/8" spokes supposed to fit? I tried the online spoke chart but got lost in the measurements. Why do I have trouble with rear wheels?




you probably went 3 cross by mistake


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## how (Jun 10, 2012)

pgroah said:


> you probably went 3 cross by mistake




I cheat I dont know any thing about 3 or 4 or 5 across lol,,I just take another wheel that is the same and follow it.

If I am just replacing the rim,,but am using the same spokes and hub,,,I tape the spokes in the order they are before I take the old rim off lol it works great,,,lol

All that doing this stuff from scratch is too confusing for me,,,lol


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## MagicRat (Jun 12, 2012)

I have made up curse words re-lacing rims.It about takes the Patience of a Saint.

The one I did re-did 3 times quickly comes to mind.(I finally got it)

They all seem too long at the begining...Clock the hub hard.

The TUFF ONE is the First spoke on the other side.

That will make or break your/my rim build.


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## MagicRat (Jun 12, 2012)

You gotta stich your spokes to make the wheel firmer too.

Yeah,Im a wheel builder.

(sometimes)


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## Hermanator3 (Jun 13, 2012)

I have built a fair number of wheels, most for modern road bikes which always require different length spokes front and back.  However I laced up a front New Departure and a Marrow rear hub with the same length spokes.  My advise for those who want to build wheels, buy Jobst Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel and follow his instructions religiously.


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## rustjunkie (Jul 12, 2012)

Front and rear spokes should be 10 5/8" for ND fronts and rears, 4 cross.
The flange diameter is different on fronts and rears, as is the center-to-flange measurement so the same spokes work.
A high-flange Schwinn, New Departure, Musselman, or ND WD use 10 5/8" because of this, too.
A low-flange hub can be taken out of a wheel and the same spokes can be used to install a high-flange or fore-wheel brake, given that the gauge is the same.
The American balloon tire bicycle wheels were not built "laced" or crossed over 3 then under the 4th spoke.

Here's a way to start from scratch that I learned from an old-old-timer way back when. Work seated, rim facing forward, right side to your right, as on the bike. Start with the rear as it's easier to keep the left and right from getting mixed up:

Take the hub in your left hand, right side up.
Drop a spoke thru every other hole.
Insert a spoke through the first right-side hole in the rim that is forward of the valve hole, touch a bit of grease to the threads, and loosely thread on a nipple.
*This should be the second hole forward from the valve hole.*
(Rim washers can be used with the original long nipples w/o thread showing.)
Continue to insert the head-out right side spokes into every fourth hole.
Rotate the hub forward so the spokes are at an angle.
Lay a loose spoke across the hub shell to locate the first hole in the left flange behind your first head-out right side spoke.
Insert this spoke into the rim hole behind your first right side spoke and thread on a nipple.
*This should be the first hole forward of the valve hole.*
Insert a spoke into this hole in the left flange from the outside.
Insert a spoke into every other hole into the left flange from the outside.
Insert the rest of the head-out left flange spokes behind their right flange buddies.
Now you've got all of your head-out spokes installed.
Load all of your head-in right flange spokes into the hub.
Here's where you get the cross pattern:
Turn the hub shell forward while keeping the rim stationary.
Take any head-in right flange spoke and count back crossing 4 spokes and insert into rim, thread on nipple.
Do this with the rest of the head-in rights.
Load the head-in left flange spokes.
Take any head-in left flange spoke and count back 4 spokes and insert into rim, thread on nipple.


If the spoke length matches the hub and rim combination everything should line up and you're ready to tighten all of the nipples little by little until the spokes are under tension and the wheel is round and true.
I like to use a touch of grease on the threads of each spoke and use rim washers. The washers spread the load and can help prevent cracking of paint and chrome, and pull-up (dimpling) of the rim.
If your spokes cross over the valve hole then you've rotated the hub the wrong way or started in the wrong hole.
It's been years since I built a wheel, but I think I got everything right.
Some folks like to load all of the spokes first. IMO this is a bit messy/confusing for the novice, so going right-left-right-left is easier.


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## SirMike1983 (Jul 12, 2012)

I use the instructions on Sheldon Brown's site and keep a reference wheel nearby as a model. The originals generally did not interlace their spokes, but since I ride mine, I interlace. I use new spokes and nipples where possible. Original is nice, but wheel construction is not the place to take chances with possibly compromised materials. Blowing a spoke is a pain; having a wheel disintegrate is a disaster.


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