# powdercoat gone bad



## Hukah (Mar 1, 2021)

Hi gang.
I hope I can lean on the group once again to help me determine the best course of action.
I recently acquired a 1946-47 CWC/Roadmaster 226WH.
It had been powder coated but the finish is "crazing"/cracking (It should be visible in the pics).
I want to know if I should
1) keep the powdercoat finish on it, prep/rough that up and overcoat it with enamel, or;
2) remove the powdercoat and prep for a new finish.
Obviously removing that finish is going to be a chore that I'm really hoping to avoid, but I've got a feeling I already know what the best course to take is, I just want to hear it from someone wiser than myself, lol.
I'd really appreciate some "been there, done that" advice.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## island schwinn (Mar 1, 2021)

Try Aircraft stripper and start fresh.


----------



## Archie Sturmer (Mar 1, 2021)

You might piece it together for that rider that is less-attractive to bike thieves; and find another project bike for your more-immediate labors.
Perhaps a delay, leaving this project on back-burner, to be resumed only after your other bikes in better initial shape/condition are done.


----------



## GTs58 (Mar 1, 2021)

I really can't tell to much from those pictures, but if it is cracked I sure wouldn't paint over it. Maybe rebake it for 10 minutes at 425 degrees. J/K


----------



## all riders (Mar 2, 2021)

Most important thing to know about using paint stripper on powdercoat--must use a stripper that has Methanol in it. Scuff that paint first with agressive sand paper grit(80 would do). apply stripper, be patient--should come off (2-3 applications perhaps)


----------



## Hukah (Mar 2, 2021)

all riders said:


> ....use a stripper that has Methanol in it. Scuff that paint first with agressive sand paper grit(80 would do). apply stripper, be patient--should come off (2-3 applications perhaps)



 I have decided to strip it so this info will be where I start.
I'll post my progress.
Thanks for this.


----------



## Jeff54 (Mar 2, 2021)

That photo is, so not in focus, nobody could possibly give an opinion of what to do with it. Just looks like a blurry rusted thing a-ma-jig. So, if that's the problem, rust bleeding through the paint?  U could get the rust out of paint with dollar store, cheap toilet bowl cleaner and then decide how or what to do with it. . Before you do anything though, especially ask advice, take clear photos. [wink]


----------



## Hukah (Mar 2, 2021)

Jeff54 said:


> That photo is, so not in focus, nobody could possibly give an opinion of what to do with it. Just looks like a blurry rusted thing a-ma-jig. So, if that's the problem, rust bleeding through the paint?  U could get the rust out of paint with dollar store, cheap toilet bowl cleaner and then decide how or what to do with it. . Before you do anything though, especially ask advice, take clear photos. [wink]



I know. I have to get to the optometrist soon.
Between my eyes being bad and the phone image being small and badly lit I'm lucky if the bike is even in the image.


----------



## catfish (Mar 2, 2021)

I would never powder coat anything.


----------



## Freqman1 (Mar 3, 2021)

catfish said:


> I would never powder coat anything.



Me either--at least bicycle related! Patio furniture is ok though. V/r Shawn


----------



## Astroyama (Mar 3, 2021)

Hukah said:


> Hi gang.
> I hope I can lean on the group once again to help me determine the best course of action.
> I recently acquired a 1946-47 CWC/Roadmaster 226WH.
> It had been powder coated but the finish is "crazing"/cracking (It should be visible in the pics).
> ...



(MEK) Methyl Ethyl Ketone.  MEK works well for softening and removing powder coat.


----------



## BFGforme (Mar 3, 2021)

Powder coating makes an excellent base color and paint sticks well to it @bobcycles


----------



## Hukah (Mar 3, 2021)

Astroyama said:


> (MEK) Methyl Ethyl Ketone.  MEK works well for softening and removing powder coat.



I looked that up. Seems like just the product.
I'm going to get some and a quart of methanol-based stripper too, just to cover my bases.
Thx

*MEK* is a liquid solvent *used* in surface coatings, adhesives, printing inks, chemical intermediates, magnetic tapes and lube oil dewaxing agents. *MEK* also is *used as* an extraction medium for fats, oils, waxes and resins. 
------It is a highly efficient and versatile solvent for surface coatings.


----------



## piercer_99 (Mar 6, 2021)

Freqman1 said:


> Me either--at least bicycle related! Patio furniture is ok though. V/r Shawn



come on, wouldn't this look great powder coated?  

instead of that old early 1900's enamel.


----------



## Woodtickgreg (Mar 7, 2021)

On a restoration I use paint and try to match the color as close as I can. But on a custom build I really like powder coat. But a good prep is key when powder coating. I like to sand blast everything, preferably with a medium glass bead.


----------



## Superman1984 (Mar 19, 2021)

Brake fluid will usually ruin powder coatings just like it does paint. Maybe not nowadays if they've "fixed" it but it used to.  Poor prepping will usually cause powder to have issues.  I'd strip it bare, clean the bare frame, find a paint in lacquer you like, and then clear with an enamel. Of course be cautious when you mix lacquer & enamels; you have to do light coats as enamels don't flash dry like lacquers & the chemicals have different properties. I used to hate lacquers but I think when I do my prime colors for 2 tones on frames this will be my next method.


----------



## WetDogGraphix (Mar 19, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> Brake fluid will usually ruin powder coatings just like it does paint. Maybe not nowadays if they've "fixed" it but it used to.  Poor prepping will usually cause powder to have issues.  I'd strip it bare, clean the bare frame, find a paint in lacquer you like, and then clear with an enamel. Of course be cautious when you mix lacquer & enamels; you have to do light coats as enamels don't flash dry like lacquers & the chemicals have different properties. I used to hate lacquers but I think when I do my prime colors for 2 tones on frames this will be my next method.



Why would you put enamel clear over lacquer? Just asking.....


----------



## Superman1984 (Mar 19, 2021)

WetDogGraphix said:


> Why would you put enamel clear over lacquer? Just asking.....



Some of the colors I want are only being found in lacquer sprays. The enamel clear is a lot more durable or harder than any of the lacquer clears. The lacquer will flash dry a lot faster & the enamel clear is easier to wet sand/buff wax. The downside is enamel gets chemically hotter during curing so it can soften a lacquer if it hasn't gassed & being sprayed in light coats for the 1st  1 or 2 coats. Am I wrong? Just what I've read through various paint forums.


----------



## RustySprockets (Mar 20, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> Some of the colors I want are only being found in lacquer sprays. The enamel clear is a lot more durable or harder than any of the lacquer clears. The lacquer will flash dry a lot faster & the enamel clear is easier to wet sand/buff wax. The downside is enamel gets chemically hotter during curing so it can soften a lacquer if it hasn't gassed & being sprayed in light coats for the 1st  1 or 2 coats. Am I wrong? Just what I've read through various paint forums.



I think you've got them reversed...lacquer over enamel is what often causes crazing.  At least, that's how it used to be--I haven't done any serious painting in a while and realize the formulas have much changed since then.


----------



## Superman1984 (Mar 20, 2021)

RustySprockets said:


> I think you've got them reversed...lacquer over enamel is what often causes crazing.  At least, that's how it used to be--I haven't done any serious painting in a while and realize the formulas have much changed since then.



Could be? It's been a while too but last time I was looking for a metallic gold spray paint to match fairly close to the CWC Roadmasters all I was finding was lacquer. I do remember a lot say 1 is safer but still a gamble if rushed. As always do it & find out I guess.


----------



## bleedingfingers (Mar 20, 2021)

Aircraft stripper out doors 
If you are going to put a colour on it just scuff sand it and us it as primer paint will stick .


----------



## WetDogGraphix (Mar 20, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> Some of the colors I want are only being found in lacquer sprays. The enamel clear is a lot more durable or harder than any of the lacquer clears. The lacquer will flash dry a lot faster & the enamel clear is easier to wet sand/buff wax. The downside is enamel gets chemically hotter during curing so it can soften a lacquer if it hasn't gassed & being sprayed in light coats for the 1st  1 or 2 coats. Am I wrong? Just what I've read through various paint forums.



You are not correct...
If you're going to use a spray can, lacquer paint and clear will be good.. Lacquers are easier to sand and buff... 
Spraying any type of enamel clear, whether straight enamel, urethane, or polyurethane clears on lacquer may stick to it, but won't chemically bond to it, so it will peel eventually.  
The only urethane clear I ever found to bond to lacquer was PPG 2020, but they don't make that anymore. There is PPG 2021, but I haven't used that.......yet. I know all of this from experience...


----------

