# Fork repair



## Stinky_Sullivan (May 24, 2014)

How do you repair a fork with bad threads?


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## Andrew Gorman (May 24, 2014)

How bad are they?   Chase the threads with the right tap.  And if they are still bad, Loctite bearing retaining compound.  I have had VERY good results from thread repair files-
http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Thread-Repair-Single-Square/dp/B001T4KRHC
First link I found...


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 25, 2014)

The threads are straight. The threaded pieces of the headset are loose over the threads. I tried pieces from another bike and they're still loose. I try all those pieces on the other fork and they're all nice and tight.


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## sprocket man (May 25, 2014)

Years ago when I had trouble with bad threads--being a machinest-
I made an adapter which locked in a thread die and slipped over the
stem.  I started cutting down girl's forks to make into boys for local 
bike collectors for free (still do).  To make a really nice thread, I use
both a rough and finish die. I know that this doesn't solve your problem
but it's something to think about.


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## rustyspoke66 (May 25, 2014)

The other option is steer tube replacement. Here is a how to from nostalgic.net, I've done several of these and also have some steer tubes in stock. http://www.nostalgic.net/how-to-repair-a-damaged-fork-steer-tube


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 25, 2014)

I appreciate the info but I'm not sure how that even applies. If you were to look at the threads, you'd see absolutely nothing wrong with them. However, if you run a nut down on them, the nut would be loose. The threads are worn but not distorted. Either the threads need to be completely replaced or I need something to apply to the threads that will take up the slack. The only other option that I can see would be to trash the fork and find a replacement.


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## sprocket man (May 25, 2014)

In the past I've had to sort thru a number of my bearing retainers to
get one to work.  There can be as much as .030 in the size difference
of the minor diameter--which can be sorted with calipers. If the thread
looks good--this may be the fix.


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 25, 2014)

Sprocket Man, I'm new to this hobby so I don't know where to get the larger retainer. I thought they were all manufactured to a limited number of sizes and pretty accurate. Is there typically that much variance in a single size?

Rusty, that link is exactly what I needed to know. If finding better fitting retainer isn't possible, at least I know it's safe to weld on new threads.


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## fat tire trader (May 26, 2014)

Can you upload a picture of the threads?


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 26, 2014)




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## GTs58 (May 26, 2014)

From the picture it looks to me like the threads are pretty flattened out on the end of the steertube. A new unused headset may help grab the fork threads if the original set is worn just as bad as the fork.


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 26, 2014)

I plan to use a new headset anyway. I'll try that before I attempt any repair of the threads.


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## Spence36 (May 30, 2014)

Buy a thread file it's easy works great 


Cruising my Prewar Schwinn


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## Stinky_Sullivan (May 30, 2014)

How will a thread file help? The threads are straight. I can run a nut as far down the threads as I need too. It would just be loose.


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## Spence36 (Jun 5, 2014)

Hmmm well I agree with above they look ok and might be a lil rounded over how loose are they ? If there just a lil loose but still can tighten them the just use a loctite one that will hold it in place but will come  off if need be what year is this from ? 


Cruising my Prewar Schwinn


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## Stinky_Sullivan (Jun 5, 2014)

It's a '72 Rollfast road bike. It's loose enough that I will bind if I cant it to one side when trying to thread it on or off. It will go on enough that I can ride it but I'm certain it will get worse and I don't want it binding or stripping in such a way that it's harder to deal with. As long as I've got it torn down, I might as well fix it right.


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## DWmonarksuperdeluxe (Jun 9, 2014)

All you have to do is braze a little at a time over the threads and run the die over top it. The brass is soft enough for the die to cut it. I have done this many times and it restores the threads to perfect condition.


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## Duck (Jun 9, 2014)

Lay one of the flats of the nut (and only one, total ) on a hard surface, and smack it once or twice with a hammer. This will ever-so-slightly egg shape the nut. It'll bite better, then.


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## Stinky_Sullivan (Jun 9, 2014)

Technically that would work as a patch even if it worked indefinitely. However, the fork would still have the same problem it did before but then I'd have a bent nut also. I'm in no hurry to get this bike on the road. I'd prefer to fix the fork properly so I won't have to damage other hardware with a hammer.


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## Duck (Jun 9, 2014)

Stinky_Sullivan said:


> Technically that would work as a patch even if it worked indefinitely. However, the fork would still have the same problem it did before but then I'd have a bent nut also. I'm in no hurry to get this bike on the road. I'd prefer to fix the fork properly so I won't have to each other hardware with a hammer.



 You're welcome- always glad to help.


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## rideahiggins (Jun 9, 2014)

What does the rest of the fork look like. It tried googling 1972 rollfast but didn't come up with much. It looks almost like a Columbia green color. Maybe some one has a spare fork.


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## Stinky_Sullivan (Jun 9, 2014)

The stickers on the seat tube are the same as the ones on my Columbia Sports III so I wouldn't be surprised if it was Columbia made.

Search eBay for 1972 Rollfast and you'll find one that's exactly like mine, even the color.


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