# 1896 handlebars preservation/restoration tips



## Wheeled Relics (Apr 30, 2015)

What I have to start with. Mid 90's Patina adj bars, one cork grip torn half off, one complete. 
Options, opinions, tips please on returning to rider.  
The bicycle they go with is unrestored patina, just as rough as the bars.


----------



## Iverider (Apr 30, 2015)

Send them to me!


----------



## gtdohn (Apr 30, 2015)

Have Frank make you a new set, but ask him not to put the finish on them. Then you can stain the cork until it has the right aged look to it and then put a finish on them. They will blend a lot better and look more like the rest of the bike. 
I did it with good results once. There's a shot of the grips on this post:  http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...Preservation-1894-Spalding&highlight=spalding

Have fun with it whatever you decide.


----------



## bikiba (Apr 30, 2015)

the bars look better than some bars i have from the 1950s!

why dont you just steel wool #0000 and WD40 them?


----------



## jkent (Apr 30, 2015)

Sweet bars!
JKent


----------



## Wheeled Relics (Apr 30, 2015)

I'm not exactly sure how these bars adjust yet; spring loaded twist mechanism; it twists, seems corroded in place. 

One of the set's of grips I ordered from frank is unfinished: brainstorming creating a tarnish; need ideas on removing the one good grip; it isn't budging! Examining what's left of the other grip.


----------



## jkent (Apr 30, 2015)

Those cork grips like that are glued on most of the time.
So removing one is going to be very very tricky.
It almost looks like that's what happened to the one grip that is half gone.
Someone trided to wedge something under it to try to losen the glue and it just came apart on them.
maybe if you had a very thin piece of flat metal and a whole lot of patience to could work it in and down very slowly and get all of the glue to turn loose.
I don't think I would try to turn the metal or the grip. keep everything still and in place.
Just work the metal down the inside of the grip and pull it back out and continue around the grip like that until you get all the way around and I would probably make a couple passes that way. Then I would slowly try to turn the grip and see if it has turned loose at all. but I would be very careful with it, as to not twist it in half.
JKent


----------



## Wheeled Relics (Apr 30, 2015)

Jkent I think you're dead on in your assessment. Hunting around for a very long thin shim. I may evenly heat with the hair dryer before trying to work anything under the grip. 

Spot testing vinegar for an acid burn on one of the unfinished cork grips from gazube.


----------



## Wheeled Relics (Apr 30, 2015)




----------



## SirMike1983 (May 4, 2015)

I think this might be a place for Balistol or Hoppe's gun oil. Both of those products are made to protect blued or even bare metal from corrosion because they are made for fire arms. They both work. Balistol works a little better, but has a somewhat foul smell initially. I use both to preserve rifle and pistol barrels, most of which are either factory blued or bare steel. I would think you could use such products on your bars in light coatings to reduce existing corrosion and prevent new corrosion without resorting to harsher methods.


----------



## Wheeled Relics (Jun 1, 2015)

Fiddled around with artificial aging early this morning. Simple acid aging with vinegar; bottom grip has had a light coat of oil applied to the corrosion to darken its color, w excess oil wiped away. Not entirely satisfied with these results. Good experiment.


----------



## SirMike1983 (Jun 1, 2015)

Birchwood Casey Plum Brown works for browning/aging metal while getting a consistent finish.


----------



## Wheeled Relics (Jun 4, 2015)

Thanks Mike, looking into Birchwood Casey


----------



## bricycle (Jun 4, 2015)

I'd buy the good og grip, then you can buy a matched pair of repops...


----------

