# what's your opinion on Motorizing classic bicycles?



## bairdco (Feb 20, 2010)

with the increasing popularity of the cheap chinese 2 stroke motor kits, i was just wondering what people think about them. 

is it an abomination, blasphlemy?

is it super


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## bairdco (Feb 20, 2010)

hey, i wasn't done yet. tried to post a poll, and it just posted half my thread on it's own. weird.

ok, screw the poll.

what do you think?

the reason i'm asking, is i get hit up by a lot of bike collectors, and most of them have one of their own, or are building one, or they think they're nifty.

but then there's a few purists that think i've spray painted the sistine chapel.

the bikes i build, i don't drill extra holes in the frame, weld anything, or, in other words, everything i do can be removed with a wrench.

plus, all the bikes i've built so far were just rotting away anyway, so i'm giving new life to them.
 i make them safe, reliable, and pretty freakin' awesome, if i say so myself.

here's 2 of mine: a late 30's/early 40's Colson 24" with the motor "reversed," and a 1920's/30's Colson Flyer. 

lemme know what you guys think (about motor kits in general, and my bikes...)

thanks.


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## kz1000 (Feb 21, 2010)

You do a great job on them, are you using the Tool box/Tank as the gas tank, and did you have it made? I see no harm done, there is nothing that can't be reversed if you decide to go back original.


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## bricycle (Feb 21, 2010)

Nice job on the bikes!
My 2 cents: Modern two strokes are not my cup 'o tea, but they look nicer than a mower style industrial engine. That's the beauty of the hobby, that everyone likes different stuff. And that is as it should be. My current idea of the perfect bike would be a period bike powered by a Steffey or Shaw etc. I'm currently running Whizzers (more in my price range, and still have cool appeal). Remenber the "rocket bike kit" offered in the old Pop Sci/Mech/do it yer sef mags?


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## bairdco (Feb 21, 2010)

thanks guys. as for the tank, i copied the basic look of the tool box tank, and made it out of copper sheet and siver solder. holds about 1/2 gallon, which is the same as the ugly peanut tank that comes with the kit. gets about 50-60 miles per tank.

i plan on making one for the 24"er, but out of aluminum this time. the problem, is the frame area is so small, i gotta come up with some "extra" space, or else it'll be limited to 20 mile runs...

i'd love to be able to make a "period" bike with an antique motor, but it just ain't in my budget. yet.


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## chriscokid (Feb 23, 2010)

i don't think it causes abomination BUT to look at a classic bike with a moped motor is a sad thing . to me it reflects an image of  disrespect. although they could look cool if put together properly. i built one from a walmart brand bike and it was ok  and i am glad i did because the bike was so cheap it caused me to look for a vintage bicycles to put the motor on but when i got the vintage bike i had too much respect for the quality of the bike to do that to it..hear is a picture my first build of a moped bike and my last


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## redline1968 (Feb 23, 2010)

i love originals and restored bikes also, enjoy the seeing custom rats and gas bikes.  they are all great yours and the rest here are cool.


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## Aeropsycho (Feb 23, 2010)

*You are a artist!*

Nice work!!!, bikes are made to be used not stuffed away and kept for a retirement fund...

On the Colson did you spin the head around backards?

It looks waay better with that pipe in the back!!!  

You might try a Silver King Frame for a 24" they are the same length as a 26" bike


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## bairdco (Feb 23, 2010)

if you mean an aluminum silver king, i wouldn't trust one of those without a motor. i had a '38 girls bike i picked up cheap, and the chain stays were a little bent, so using a tiny bit of hand pressure to try to straighten them out, the chain stay snapped right off. and seriously, i mean with a tiny bit of pressure. as cool as those bikes are, 70 year old cast aluminum ain't. 

back on topic, i agree about certain vintage bikes. i would never take a fully original classic and slap a motor kit on it. both bikes i built were just piles of rust, but structurally sound, where a restoration was pretty much out of the question. 

as for the backwards motor, you need to reverse the jug, match the transfer ports in the case, 180 the piston so the ring gap doesn't hang up on the intake port, custom make an intake manifold for clearance, and bend the exhaust. the head has nothing to do with it, it can go on either way.

it's cool, except for the "hot foot" effect of the exhaust right there.


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## Aeropsycho (Feb 23, 2010)

*whoops...*

Yeah I meant the jug...

I think doing something with these less desirable bikes creates a whole new angle to collecting, I have been gathering vintage parts and various engines to do the same myself along with original bikes I think there is always a complainer out there....

I say Do It!!!


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## bricycle (Feb 23, 2010)

...ok, I decided to show what I did to a poor circa '60 vintage girls $5 AMF Roadmaster I got from a garage sale (after applying many spare parts laying around). I call it a 1923 Nomatic cruiser.
Mill is a 1927 Briggs FH with exposed pushrod, front end from a Monark supertwin, head pipe is grabrail from a David Bradley chainsaw, top rail is card table leg, exercycle seat, and the list just goes on and on....


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## mrwilliamswhirlingwheels (Feb 23, 2010)

This garbage from China is a scab on this beautiful industry. Why is China the only country that can pruduce a worthy bicycle engine that actually works and looks like it should...an engine for a bicycle.
Where are our American engineers who USED to produce these little gems...they sold out to ASIA...that's what. To our own shame....


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## redline1968 (Feb 24, 2010)

cool bike.   you can  blame it on the greed anf the american way. quality down and profit up.


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## mazdaflyer (Feb 24, 2010)

I think it Is a of matter economics. In my state you can't register it so
you can't ride it legally on the street, thus enters the liabilty
and insurance issues. The EPA is probably another road
block to a USA made motor. Even the new whizzers come
from China. No legal market no motor...sad.


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## drabe (Feb 24, 2010)

I know a coupe of guys that either have them or are building them. 
My opinion, if you want two wheels and an engine go buy a motorcycle. It be quicker (literally) and easier. 
But like they say it's your bike, do what you want with it.


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## bairdco (Feb 24, 2010)

mrwilliamswhirlingwheels said:


> This garbage from China is a scab on this beautiful industry. Why is China the only country that can pruduce a worthy bicycle engine that actually works and looks like it should...an engine for a bicycle.
> Where are our American engineers who USED to produce these little gems...they sold out to ASIA...that's what. To our own shame....




what industry? 

while i agree that it'd be nice to have an american made motor, i don't agree that americans "sold out." no one has produced an amercain motor for a bicycle in uhh, i dunno how many years. i think most, if not all, the friction drive "chicken motors" of the 70's were made overseas, too.

i don't really think some 90 year old guy who used to work for the Hendee MFG co. building motors for Indians is a "sell out." i mean, when you say "Where are our American engineers who USED to produce these little gems..." well, they've all died of old age.

the chinese models are based on the russian motors, so did the russians sell out after the cold war ended?


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## mpr455 (Feb 25, 2010)

bairdco, i have plans of producing an american made engine for bikes right in my own shop which is in my basement. i have the equipment and the knowhow. you know what keeps me from getting serious about it is that after spending a lot of money on building tooling, molds, fixtures, etc to build a run of these engines. 90% will not buy my engine because a. i don't have a brand name following. b. as much a people claim to be die hard americans and chant "buy american" 90% will buy chinese soley on price alone. they don't know any better. my engine will cost double what a chinese engine does. why? because it has too as we can not afford to work for next to nothing. it just doesn't cover the bills. i live just outside of chicago and believe me everything from a gallon of gas to a gallon of milk is taxed and retaxed to the point where we pay upwards of 12-13% in tax on everyday items.the chinese don't have a way of life like we do. maybe we're spoiled i don't know. but i just may do some engines and sell a small amount to people. i'am still thinking about it-thanks big mike


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## bairdco (Feb 25, 2010)

if it works, i'll buy one.


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## PCHiggin (Feb 26, 2010)

*Cables*

The only thing  I don't like are the messy cables everywhere. We obviously need a throttle,but I'd prefera centrifugal clutch over a cable activated unit as on my friends 90's Whizzer.I'd also like to stick with a coaster rear brake,with a front caliper type. I'd like to motorize one of my old Schwinn middleweights but can't decide which unit would be best.

Pat


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## jwm (Feb 26, 2010)

I get way tired of hearing the lack of American made stuff blamed on greed. Whose greed? Is it the greed of every litigious wimp who hurts himself on a bike and sues the bike maker?  Is it the greed of the environmental wacko's who try to regulate everything into some impossible zero pollution standard? Or maybe it's the greed of the labor unions who force closed shops, and threaten the lives and well-being of anyone who doesn't want pony up to their legal extortion racket. Or maybe it's the greed of the lawyers who make their living suing people who manufacture stuff. Or maybe the greed of CPSIA which has managed to regulate the recreational vehicle business almost out of existence?

Here's where the greed starts: with every individual who thinks he can make a pile of bucks from a lawsuit when whatever he did to hurt himself was his own damn fault.
With every shyster attorney waiting for the aforementioned idiot to walk through his door with a tort claim.
With every union goon who thinks his semi-skilled labor is worth the price of a rocket scientist or nuclear engineer.

Here's where the stupidity starts: with fools who impose environmental and safety regulations on manufacturers without having the faintest idea of how those regulations are to be implemented, and a total disregard for the cost of implementation.
With idiots who vote in "green" candidates because, gosh darn it, we have to save Gaia from the evils of Mankind.

You want American made goods? Get the American government off our collective asses. Tell the environmental, and safety weenies to jump in the ocean, and when you fall off your bike, blame yourself for being a clumsy ass.

/end of rant

JWM


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## fasteddy (Feb 26, 2010)

mpr455, I would think the only way for you to make a splash in the bike motor industry would be to make a motor that looks like the motors that powered the first motor cycles. Your market would not be the average person just wanting a motor to power thier bike but the ones like myself who would pay to have a motor that would look like an antique motor.

How big would the market be is the question. Large enough to keep you busy and keep you going as a small business?  The market would be world wide and given the amount of people selling early style motorcycles with china girl engines there is a market for them.

So long as they are 49cc or under to meet the laws requirement you should be in business.

Steve.


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## bairdco (Feb 26, 2010)

hey Pat (pchiggins,) i totally agree on the cables. if you notice on my bikes, they're cut down to size and routed so they're not all over the place. the orange ones are  Jagwire compressionless mountain bike cables, lined with Kevlar (those were fun to cut, you need a new pair of dykes after cutting two.) the CDI box is hidden under the motor so the wires aren't ziptied all over the place, too.

in California, to be legal you need a horn, headlight, taillight, and a left mirror, and once you start adding all that crap it really detracts from the bike.

but i'm working on it.


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## mpr455 (Feb 26, 2010)

you hit the nail on the head! i was thinking the motor should look vintage. i totally neglected to think about the hardcore guy and not cater to the regular motorbikers(the guys that bolt engines to mountain bikes) my plan was to build engines in runs of five or ten. i wonder if there is enough interest to really get going on this project. i figure it would take upwards of a year to get everything figured out. guys if you have an interest in a vintage looking motor with state of the art technology let me know. here is a few ideas i had. aluminum block with steel sleeve that would be replaceable, direct port injection(very simple to do in these because you don't need a timed fuel shot above 2000 rpm) 7075 aluminum piston, 7075 aluminum rod, steel crank. o-ring seals, antifriction coated bearing surfaces and piston skirt. i would also improve the "clutch" this is nothing more than an in-out box like on a sprint car or midget. i would guess the engine to retail between 600-700 dollars. these would be built one at a time and run in my shop before being shipped to customer. just some ideas that have been floating in my head-thanks  mike


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## jwm (Feb 26, 2010)

Now that I've cooled down a little.
mpr455: I believe there is a market for high end hand crafted goods, even in this economy. The way I see it, a hand crafted bicycle engine Kit need three elements: quality, ease of installation, and kool. First, Kool: Looks are everything. What if someone came up with a 49cc V-twin- something that had the look, and a little of the sound of an old Indian or Harley? Or even the no BS look of a single cylinder JAP engine like the speedway bikes use. If it has the "B" (for bitchen) factor people are going to want it. Ease of installation is another factor. When I had my Harley, one of the things that I quickly grew to love about the Motor Company was that everything you bought for your bike just plain<i> fit</i>. I'm not a great mechanic, but all the Screamin' Eagle stuff that I got for the Springer came with clear, easy to follow instructions, and it all went on just like it was supposed to. No filing, bending, looking for some extra washers to make it fit. Quality goes without saying. I've heard that a lot of the little two-stroke motors just plain break after not much use. Most folks would rather buy one kit that will last the life of the bike rather than one that will last a thousand miles and need to be replaced. Just my two cent's worth on the topic.

JWM


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## PCHiggin (Feb 27, 2010)

bairdco said:


> hey Pat (pchiggins,) i totally agree on the cables. if you notice on my bikes, they're cut down to size and routed so they're not all over the place. the orange ones are  Jagwire compressionless mountain bike cables, lined with Kevlar (those were fun to cut, you need a new pair of dykes after cutting two.) the CDI box is hidden under the motor so the wires aren't ziptied all over the place, too.
> 
> in California, to be legal you need a horn, headlight, taillight, and a left mirror, and once you start adding all that crap it really detracts from the bike.
> 
> but i'm working on it.




I just saw yours,they look fantastic. Nice job,much cleaner than a Whizzer. Is there any brand of those engine kits that's a cut above the pack? Thanks.

Pat


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## fasteddy (Mar 1, 2010)

mpr455, have you been to the motorized bike sites? One company is working on putting the final touches on thier V twin  motor and  another person is working on an improved 2 stroke motor but so far no one is working on a motor that replicates the early look.
Lot's of board track racers with the happy times motors only because there is no other motor being made.
There is a company making a reproduction of the early Harley style bikes but they are $10,000-$12,000. I don't if they sell just the motors but they sure won't be inexpensive.

If you you put the idea on the bike sights you will get a better idea of the demand. A better motor is talked about a lot. Two companies sell board track style racers in the $3,500 range with the HT motors.
They may well be interested in a good motor.

A lot of states do not allow a clutch so you would be better with a centrifical clutch.

Steve.


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## mastronaut (Mar 1, 2010)

I'm building one as we speak out of my Flightliner!


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## bairdco (Mar 2, 2010)

and i'm helping! (from a distance...)


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## mastronaut (Mar 2, 2010)

bairdco said:


> and i'm helping! (from a distance...)




Oh yes, and I'm appreciating from a distance TRUST ME!


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## roadmaster29 (Mar 5, 2010)

i want  v-twin motor put me in the list... if you go more fast than china with  a vintage american look, with a hundred of difference you can find, people like me trying to put a 1933 B10E with a correct look, and the hapiness of not spending it  in a whizzer h motor, or putting a cheap china motor that everybody its gonna hate even me.


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## mastronaut (Mar 12, 2010)

Yep I sure am loving my moto-bike! Here are the latest pics ot off the digital....


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## ratdaddy (Mar 12, 2010)

yea i just do what i want and dont think muck about what anybody else thinks.these are great bikes go have fun


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## jwm (Mar 12, 2010)

Mastronaut- That is one sweet lookin' ride! Nice work.

JWM


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## bud poe (Apr 18, 2010)

*my humble opinion...*

My first antique bicycle I pulled out of some blackberry bushes in my friends backyard, it had been abandoned there by another friend of ours who split town.  It was a rusty beat-up late 40's Hiawatha, looked pretty rough but the tires held air.  I rode that bike all over Portland for the next few years.  It was always around and friends visiting would cruise around town on it, everyone who rode it absolutely had a blast on it.  Something about riding a balloon tire bike makes you feel like a 9 year old kid...
Anyways, a few years later I started building a whizzer out of her.  My friend who used to be sort of a "dealer" of whizzer kits in the early 2000's and had built several himself, helped me source a sacrificial 1999 24" blue Whizzer re-issue.  We quickly stripped it of all usable running gear and began to fit up the  Hiawatha.  I made my own motor mounts using some originals as templates.  I welded truss rods straight to the front forks realizing they needed to be re-enforced to be able to withstand the abuse and stresses that the bike would soon be experiencing.  We had to bend part of the frame (the rear fork) to be able to fit the drive belt.  In short, we did irreversable damage.  Our theory was: "what would some kid in the 50's do to get this dang motor into his bike?"  I have no regrets whatsoever, I love the look (i guess some would call it  "rat-rod") and after almost 5 years, it's still running strong...For what its worth, I say do what you want, there will always be haters and complainers, but you can't hear them if your whizzing down the road with a great big smile on your face!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/25188425@N08/3890854655/


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## mason_man (Apr 23, 2010)

I like Whizzer here's some pics of one of mine


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## PCHiggin (May 6, 2010)

*Cool!*



bud poe said:


> My first antique bicycle I pulled out of some blackberry bushes in my friends backyard, it had been abandoned there by another friend of ours who split town.  It was a rusty beat-up late 40's Hiawatha, looked pretty rough but the tires held air.  I rode that bike all over Portland for the next few years.  It was always around and friends visiting would cruise around town on it, everyone who rode it absolutely had a blast on it.  Something about riding a balloon tire bike makes you feel like a 9 year old kid...
> Anyways, a few years later I started building a whizzer out of her.  My friend who used to be sort of a "dealer" of whizzer kits in the early 2000's and had built several himself, helped me source a sacrificial 1999 24" blue Whizzer re-issue.  We quickly stripped it of all usable running gear and began to fit up the  Hiawatha.  I made my own motor mounts using some originals as templates.  I welded truss rods straight to the front forks realizing they needed to be re-enforced to be able to withstand the abuse and stresses that the bike would soon be experiencing.  We had to bend part of the frame (the rear fork) to be able to fit the drive belt.  In short, we did irreversable damage.  Our theory was: "what would some kid in the 50's do to get this dang motor into his bike?"  I have no regrets whatsoever, I love the look (i guess some would call it  "rat-rod") and after almost 5 years, it's still running strong...For what its worth, I say do what you want, there will always be haters and complainers, but you can't hear them if your whizzing down the road with a great big smile on your face!
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25188425@N08/3890854655/




It turned out perfect. the history of the bike really makes it for me. 

Pat


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## bud poe (May 6, 2010)

I think it's neat and I have a lot of fun on it...But yeah, the story and history really makes it, thanks!


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## dopehead (May 10, 2010)

ok guys here is my take on the situation...but before we go any further please see    www.myspace.com/dopeheadsmopeds    . I have built over 20 of these motorized engine bikes  ive used grubee,boy go fast the guy in canada you name i,t slant head, black head  jack shaft  nox...whatever  I also repaired them  and have been inside the guts of these more than once.. true there engines do little harm to the frame of the bike as long as you use the u bolt technique of attaching but it does take a toll on the rear hub also any other extras like fenders.. which have to be cut for chain....the best thing is to find repop parts to replace any part that you dont want to have exxxxtreme abuse to it is so much easier to find a 8 dollar crank at your used l.b.s. then to pay 45 dollars on ebay for the original....  I do believe the old ballooner frames would be a much sturdier choice then the chineese frames which i have seen bend under motor pressure. as far as the engines themselves go  the cylinder main bearing and shaft usually hold up the life of engine...the clutches are bad  to much pressure especially over 250 lbs toasts them...the carbs have a three lb pressure float so if you leave the gas on it will leak...the clutch lever should be upgraded to a quick shift for front derailer. the mounting bracket under the muffler often gives way.. and the choke will without doubt quit closing.. if you get a 49 cc you will be much happier than a 66cc and will almost always beat them in a race....66cc tops out before the end of the throttle length  but 49  tops out at engine top end. even though there is adjustment notches on the main jet itself  the carb was made for 49cc    well guess ill quit babbling...but in short if you are diligent about checking for loose bolts and take care of your engine...replace muffler gasket often.. it is a good investment for a buck and a half.  have a good week


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## AntonyR (May 20, 2010)

bricycle said:


> ...ok, I decided to show what I did to a poor circa '60 vintage girls $5 AMF Roadmaster I got from a garage sale (after applying many spare parts laying around). I call it a 1923 Nomatic cruiser.
> Mill is a 1927 Briggs FH with exposed pushrod, front end from a Monark supertwin, head pipe is grabrail from a David Bradley chainsaw, top rail is card table leg, exercycle seat, and the list just goes on and on....



Honestly I think that's your best work. Getting completely unrelated parts to work together is much more rewarding than any kit. There's not much conversation needed on how you took something out of a box and bolted it on. This one looks like something that could have been in "Chitty-chitty Bang-bang"!


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## bricycle (May 25, 2010)

Hey thanks AntonyR.... I have a new frankenbike in the works as we speak. Will try to post some pix as I near completion.
bri.


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## partsguy (May 25, 2010)

I'm a purist, and a Hot Rodder, so I can't just pick sides very easily. But, I do think the motorized bikes are cool! Just not with chinese parts-thats my only peeve.


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## timmyc (Jun 18, 2010)

Hello all...I gotta throw my 2 cents in.....
The classic frames and forms of old bikes are things of beauty....Monarks, Higgins, Shelbeys, Hawthornes, Schwinns and all the others are rolling pieces of art. When you put a carbon burning chunk of heavy metal in the crossbars it f**ks up and distracts from the grace and design that it was  originated from.....   if youre going to motorize go electricc...48volt rear hub motors are a HELLLAVALOT quieter and cheaper than a carbon/combustion engine and they put a lot less strain on the frame ....you can still go fast enough without making the dogs bark....


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## bairdco (Jun 19, 2010)

i'll add another 2 cents to that, timmy. 

every bike you've mentioned has been motorized in the past, waaay before the cheap chinese two strokes. whether it was a Whizzer, Briggs and Stratton, or some other engine.

not to mention that every one of the classic balloon bikes took their styling cues from cars of their era.


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## fasteddy (Jun 19, 2010)

http://s866.photobucket.com/home/speedydick/index

Timmyc, don't know where you got the idea that electric motors are cheap. Above is the Photo Bucket slide show of my build. 
1952 Monark with wrong tank decal and I haven't finished it completely. I built every thing but the bike. I restored that.  Going to the East coast for the summer and will finish it it the fall.
The hub motor from e-bikes.com here in Vancouver B.C. was $805 + tax. The poly lithium battery is almost that much.
There are cheaper set ups but no way are they like a China girl motor.

For what it will cost me I could put two or mabey 3 of the best motor bike motors on the Monark. Trouble is gas motors are ilegal in Canada.

Steve.


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## bairdco (Jul 10, 2010)

*i just defecated on another classic...*

built this up after removing 4 coats of paint and a half inch of rust...


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## chainmaker (Jul 18, 2010)

Nice Bike Bairdco...thanks for the tips.

Cheers


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## bricycle (Jul 18, 2010)

*Frankenbike no. 2*

Don't know if this was a classic, but it once was my 1980 ish Columbia 10 speed.
This is American hodge-podge in the works. Was gonna go for the barn-fresh look, but...? Mill is a late '20's early '30's Sattley 3/4 hp made by Nelson Bros. since I don't think I can afford a Steffey or Shaw. I removed gas/oil tanked cast iron base and mounted it directly to a plate, which also serves as the engine mount. Fuel tank is ala end to end soldered rattle paint cans, carb donated from a 1923 Johnson twin outboard, battery box was a '30's-'40's vintage Chinese (ok, that isn't American) tin candy box. Headlamp is a 1899 Solar carbide lamp I converted to "D cell" battery power, jackshaft was from a 12" sidewalk bike, front wheel is very roachy Schwinn .120 gauge S2. rear is dimpled unknown with New Departure coaster. Fenders are from a circa 1960 AMF Roadmaster girls model, seat is an old Brooks model. I still need to fashion the pedals/crank assy. and design an exhaust system. Thinking about calling it a Velocyped Roam-a-bout.








bri.


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## bairdco (Jul 18, 2010)

that's pretty cool lookin'! i need to find a cool vintage motor. i don't mind the chinee 2 strokes, but i'd like to build something that's really classic.

one question, bri, does that motor run? it looks pretty beat. i mean, it looks cool and old-timey, but does it work?


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## bricycle (Jul 18, 2010)

*what's your opinion on Motorizing classic bicycles? / Frankenbike No. 2*



bairdco said:


> that's pretty cool lookin'! i need to find a cool vintage motor. i don't mind the chinee 2 strokes, but i'd like to build something that's really classic.
> 
> one question, bri, does that motor run? it looks pretty beat. i mean, it looks cool and old-timey, but does it work?




Thanks for the kind words. Also good question, to which I must say I do not know. It needed a lot of work when I got her, but now she has good spark, and that is 75% of the equasion. And if she does indeed run, have I selected satisfactory gearing ratios? Stay tuned to find out these and other intriguing answers...
I also need to design the slip clutch assembly. Can't forget that!
bri.


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## wrongway (Sep 11, 2014)

bairdco said:


> thanks guys. as for the tank, i copied the basic look of the tool box tank, and made it out of copper sheet and siver solder. holds about 1/2 gallon, which is the same as the ugly peanut tank that comes with the kit. gets about 50-60 miles per tank.
> 
> i plan on making one for the 24"er, but out of aluminum this time. the problem, is the frame area is so small, i gotta come up with some "extra" space, or else it'll be limited to 20 mile runs...
> 
> i'd love to be able to make a "period" bike with an antique motor, but it just ain't in my budget. yet.




I know this is an old thread, but what gauge of copper did you use? Was it hard to shape and solder? How did you add a gas cap/opening?


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