# Prewar Western Flyer



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2015)

A friend of mine just picked this up for me at a swap meet but he won't tell me where it is. I like this bike.  I know it's Cleveland welding it has a morrow  rear hub that I have not cleaned yet to see a date straight down tube very cool forks it had mudflaps as what's hanging off the front and rear fenders. Curved fender braces peaked fenders with two tone pinstriping no holes in the fenders for light. I will get the serial number soon just wanted to post some pics.


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 1, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> A friend of mine just picked this up for me at a swap meet but he won't tell me where it is. I like this bike.  I know it's Cleveland welding it has a morrow  rear hub that I have not cleaned yet to see a date straight down tube very cool forks it had mudflaps as what's hanging off the front and rear fenders. Curved fender braces peaked fenders with two tone pinstriping no holes in the fenders for light. I will get the serial number soon just wanted to post some pics.]




Looks good, well made bike  and has the conditions for pre-war fit too. Like, 36-7 or so,,..

Plus, with the right cleaners ya might salvage the paint under the 'patina' (lol), rust as well! Nice looking rims too!

Do I spy a little bend in fork? an easy fix.


----------



## HARPO (Apr 1, 2015)

Hmmm...I didn't think anything rusted in California....


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2015)

HARPO said:


> Hmmm...I didn't think anything rusted in California....




It just depends where in California it is. Along the coast stuff will rust overnight with the Salt air. 
This bike still has the 43 wartime plate attached to it eclipse front and rear with 11 gauge spokes no date stamp though. 
Morrow brake arm is there. 
Also here is a pic of the serial number starting with the G








I think 38 or 39 or 40 but I don't know what do you think? Does the arrow on the front hub mean take the axle out that way?


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 1, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> It just depends where in California it is. Along the coast stuff will rust overnight with the Salt air.
> This bike still has the 43 wartime plate attached to it eclipse front and rear with 11 gauge spokes no date stamp though.
> Morrow brake arm is there.
> Also here is a pic of the serial number starting with the G
> I think 38 or 39 or 40 but I don't know what do you think?




I'd take that 36 on the hub as the year, and followed with 11 as November, although dating morrow hubs is supposa-ta be a letter, 
"##E = 1935
##F = 1936
##G = 1937
##H = 1938
##I = 1939
##J = 1940
##K = 1941"

But it's also because and I'm no expert and will have to refer you to the, page here for dating Cleveland welding co frame. With regret because, it's complicated and not complete. whoever started it, didn't finish, was given data that didn't get listed, and passed to another early on who also didn't complete, and now others who have the just of it but fail in final posting detail. . lots of bike date codes listed as to what year they may be too but, the poster/reply did not cite or add in a quote to whom the bike's question refers. . Yet I am confident that straight frame was discontinued by 1939. 

The thread at least speculates a period for that letter G,. So, If I am correct as to issue of the straight bar, adding speculation about that hub,, that G should fit in the time frame below 39. 

Can not cite the exact topic currently but Search the threads for Cleveland welding date codes, all ya gotta do is find the G. .


----------



## rustjunkie (Apr 1, 2015)

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...mber-and-Date-Code-Information-Non-Discussion


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2015)

*Dating a Morrow...easy CWC...experts please....*

It is confusing... I looked at all those pages for awhile... Morrow dating is easy. I have a 37, 40, 41 all stamped with a letter and 1/4 of particular year... all with 36 13 as well which is 36 spokes, 13 gauge ... These hubs are stamped 36 11  Bigger gauge spokes no letter/number stamp on either....
I am thinking some kind of Paperboy Special or ???




Jeff54 said:


> I'd take that 36 on the hub as the year, and followed with 11 as November, although dating morrow hubs is supposa-ta be a letter,
> "##E = 1935
> ##F = 1936
> ##G = 1937
> ...


----------



## THEGOLDENGREEK (Apr 1, 2015)

Nice bike!


----------



## rustjunkie (Apr 1, 2015)

When you open the hub check the date codes on the parts. If they're the same or the majority are, then IMO it's a safe bet that's the mfr date of the hub.
I'll bet you one Mexican Coke (cold) payable at the next Monrovia ride that the parts will have "I" stamps


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 1, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> It is confusing... I looked at all those pages for awhile... Morrow dating is easy. I have a 37, 40, 41 all stamped with a letter and 1/4 of particular year... all with 36 13 as well which is 36 spokes, 13 gauge ... These hubs are stamped 36 11  Bigger gauge spokes no letter/number stamp on either....
> I am thinking some kind of Paperboy Special or ???




Yeah thanks rustjunky for that link.


tripple3, I browsed to it cause I've gone over that whole tred dozens of times trying to make some sense of it, including, if I coud thought I'd outline it to clear it up, but it's to dang complex, yet figured I could hunt something down to help ya figure this out..

This might help ya: 







> Prewar Serial Numbers
> 
> Regarding serial numbers, the picture that has emerged to date is that most of the prewar production used a serial number system that begins with a letter and is followed by 5 numbers. It appears that these numbers are sequential and the system starts with “A” and proceeds through “K”. The K serial numbers were used in 1941 and then, instead of moving to “L” the system returned to “A”. It is my opinion that these second series “A” bikes and perhaps the end of the “K” series constitute what would be considered the 1942 model line. This line probably entered production in the fall of 1941 and the “A” serialed bikes were likely made at the tail end of 1941 and into the first few months of 1942.





I may be off base citing 39 discontinued straight bar, but the thread is to dam confusing.. Regardless, citing the op, he says K was last letter in 41, and at the end of 41 they reverted back to A which would mean A-42, B-43, C-44 etc into 1949-50 when Cleveland began stamping the Cw after the serial set. .  so, if his logic is correct on prewar bikes; he's saying just go backwards from K, K-41, J-40, I-39, H-38, G-37!!.. 
 most especially because, you have the drop stand ear on rear drop outs, An 'G' post war would be 1947-8, and drop stand ears on rear drop-outs were discontinued, 'I believe' by then:

Which  makes yours: G prewar = 1937!!


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2015)

Thanks Jeff I read through that thread as well and I saw C 37 I was hoping for a D maybe 38 I have a G I don't think each letter means a year
https://vimeo.com/123894194
This is a knockout hub I have been told cool as can be. 




Pic reference of another Morrow  I have


----------



## jkent (Apr 1, 2015)

Those hubs could be worth a good chunk of $$$.
Anyone looking for Morrow Eclipse hubs for a military bike would give good money for them.
JKent


----------



## rustjunkie (Apr 1, 2015)

Alright, back to wrenching, tripple3, you're burnin' daylight here: we expect to see that bike on the road for tomorrow's What bike did you ride today?  post.


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 1, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> Thanks Jeff I read through that thread as well and I saw C 37 I was hoping for a D maybe 38 I have a G I don't think each letter means a year
> 
> This is a knockout hub I have been told cool as can be.
> 
> Pic reference of another Morrow  I have




The hub is free floating?/ concur, Whaaatt?? lol.. Ingenious! What's to stop that wheel from "free floating" into your danged rear bars, fenders and chain!. 

And as far as C being 37,, that's the problem with that dang thread, it's a fricken hodgepodge of posts that don't fit into the checker board puzzle so well.. 

But that quote by the op, does make the most sense. More sense than most anything else inside there. 

I had not completely understood it previously, in fact,  as overall  the whole is so confusing but..

It sets up the reason for the confusion for the letter reversion that makes it so tough.. You have to unite the letter and drop out to discern the correct letter to its date. . 
 because of CWC's early abandonment of the letter and 5 number set which begins to start a new date sequence, addition of the Cw stamp after the set, it gets more confusing!!..

But, that's what post war is missing.. take the end of 41 as a K, and new set as an A.. 42-A, 43-B, follow through until the Cw stamp appears,, 1948 or so?? and the following years CWC uses a Letter preceding the Cw stamp, ACw. BCw until 1951 CWC puts the year "51 Cw".  

So, early war letter sets of A-1942, B-1943 are also deducible by the changes in the rear drop-out used, then the Cw stamp indicates a set change.  You could take that backwards too, '51cw-1951, BCw=1950 ACw=1949 and Cw could or would =1948. A 1942, B 1942, C-1944, D-1945, E-1946, F-1947 and if there's extra letters issued mid year they could squeeze into the year span preceding the Cw stamp which you can get to by counting backwards from 51Cw. .  

Following that logic, and because that whole thread is so mixed up,, counting the letters backward pre-war is a piece of cake. 

Or lets just say, it's the dammed easiest way out of the reckless riddle. [grin]

And I'll add, CWC didn't always make it so simple on their bikes, try dating this CWC, Western Flyer pre-war BB. Only the rear dropout helps narrow it down to 39-41.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2015)

*What to do....*

I'm actually looking at this bike trying to figure out what I want to do to it. What level of cleaning, polishing?? 
I have a crusty original bike that came to me for what it is. My Challenger came from a collection; a discard. I love it.
I have wanted as many Ohio Mfgrs as I could get in my budget, timing, and shed. CWC has been on my list; this one is pretty awesome the more I look at it.
I delivered 150 newspapers 2 mornings a week in Huntington Beach on any bike that would take it until I broke it. We could not afford a Schwinn, but I wanted 1 forever...until I started driving. 
This bike would have been better than anything I ever owned to deliver papers on. So I'm stoked to get it.
Sometimes I think polishing all the lines and removing all the crust is like trying to restore my Mom. She's perfect with all her wrinkles and grey hair and "age" spots she call them. I would never take that away.
Its just a bike though seriously; I want to ride it. I probably won't have the patience to do much. I want to tear it apart and replace every bearing with new balls.
repack and Ride... and then see....
It won't be until I find a shop that has my bearings on hand. I have a few to choose from...



rustjunkie said:


> Alright, back to wrenching, tripple3, you're burnin' daylight here: we expect to see that bike on the road for tomorrow's What bike did you ride today?  post.


----------



## fordmike65 (Apr 1, 2015)

I say service,wipe down & ride as-is, ala my '37 Merc & Scott's(well, it was his 'til recently) '36 Hawthorne


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 1, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> I'm actually looking at this bike trying to figure out what I want to do to it. What level of cleaning, polishing??
> I have a crusty original bike that came to me for what it is. My Challenger came from a collection; a discard. I love it.
> I have wanted as many Ohio Mfgrs as I could get in my budget, timing, and shed. CWC has been on my list; this one is pretty awesome the more I look at it.
> I delivered 150 newspapers 2 mornings a week in Huntington Beach on any bike that would take it until I broke it. We could not afford a Schwinn, but I wanted 1 forever...until I started driving.
> ...




There's quite a few touts about using this: oxalic acid. It's easy to buy and peps swear that it removes the rust and saves the paint and major bonus, your plating will be nickel, if you're not very carful it'll wipe right off. . I've  never tired it but if I'd your bike, it would be 1st thing to conceder. wouldn't touch it with steal wool, Nor the paint with any abrasives, not even a plastic kitchen pot scrubber.  no other rust eating agents, but something soft like olalic acid. Somebody has mentioned a new WD-40 rust removing  product with great results, but might be more pricy. 

There's many a bikes shown looking similar to yours with incredible results. so, hunting down a good safe rust remover that does not touch the paint or even worse, scratch that nickel,  is a must do in my book. Then after, you can conceder your options for tossing news print.

You are likely to be very surprised once you uncover that rust to see that, there's very high odds the bulk of it is on top of the original paint. those pin- stripes may return, the white can be very flaky if you touch it too. 

I can see the pitting on your paint, but  it's more likely growth,  organic rust: 'Iron Bacteria: These nuisance bacteria combine iron (or manganese) and oxygen to form deposits of "rust," bacterial cells'  that have grown over the paint,  verses under. In the case; those are not under mining pits but over growth piles piercing  through tiny, tiny even microscopic holes in the paint and chrome/nickel plating that have grown over it all. . . .

If you can get that rust off without etching or scratching the paint and nickel you could see it return to close as possible to that burgundy red you see under the bottom bracket and at least a matte finish, nickel-silver verses spray painting the nickel. . . after that you can coat it with something to protect it further on.

It's what drew my attention to your bike, 'Iron Bacteria', a little x-ray vision, those rims look so nice, made me wonder how cool that bike would look if cleaned carefully. And I have a western flyer with that burgundy, it's nice but, in my case, I've been slowly trying to get the house paint off to reveal that color,, much harder task.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 2, 2015)

fordmike65 said:


> I say service,wipe down & ride as-is, ala




I started the service tore apart the front hub went and bought all new bearings at a local bike shop that has been there since I was a kid. I found out that my serial number starting with G makes my bike 1940 thank you Jim from Jaf/co
It's a standard model Western Flyer with special ordered heavy duty Hubs and spokes how cool is that…






 
parts list in the island Catalog give me the bearing sizes I need to get; thank you Scott rustjunkie. I am taking one step at a time and don't know when I will get to this next but probably as soon as I get a few hours again. I think I am the first one to get to tear it apart for many many years. the only thing the guy at the swap meet said was it has been hanging for a long time…


----------



## rollfaster (Apr 2, 2015)

fordmike65 said:


> I say service,wipe down & ride as-is, ala my '37 Merc & Scott's(well, it was his 'til recently) '36 Hawthorne




I completely agree. I love the look of it. It's a great bike mark. As I've told mike this before, that old merc is still one of the coolest bikes I've seen on this site or anywhere else because of its look. In my eyes, it is a true work of art. Rob.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 14, 2015)

*1940 Western Flyer*

I replaced all bearings with new, fresh grease, clean and 1 step wax for now. I found a part in the rear hub dated J4 1940 Oct-Dec
The rack was missing some screws so I left it off. I like the look better without it too.
The bike rides super solid with zero rattles. I have a set of Western Flyer pedals on their way to put a little personal touch to a great original bike.


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 14, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> I replaced all bearings with new, fresh grease, clean and 1 step wax for now. I found a part in the rear hub dated J4 1940 Oct-Dec
> The rack was missing some screws so I left it off. I like the look better without it too.
> The bike rides super solid with zero rattles. I have a set of Western Flyer pedals on their way to put a little personal touch to a great original bike.]




It's shaping up nicely 

And I'm venturing into my own quest of discovery myself now. Just picked this up yesterday; top photo. A few hours today with plastic brush. 2 table spoons of toilet bowl cleaner [light acid agent diluted heavily ], 1 cup of Industrial concentrated 'all purpose' cleaner and a gallon of water. Then a major hosing off with water to get the cleaning solutions out, followed with a good wipe down of WD-40 to help get some oil back into the paint and potentially drive out any microscopic remnants of the cleaners and 1st cleaning is done 2nd photo.. Next will be disassembly for soaking in Oxalic acid and I'll know just how much paint it eats or not [fingers crossed] and whether the rims will get any better. Haven't attempted to clean the chrome other than with plastic brush. 

doesn't show in 2nd photo but,, there's lots of rust spotting all over the paint, hopefully it's mostly bacteria, at least it looks like the odds are good. There were signs of salt all over the bike so, was likely a beach bike in waiting for quite some time. usually, rims will have heavy rust on 1/4 area from setting in same place for so long.. . But me knows from having lived in Huntington beach Ca and surrounding areas,, oceans and chrome rims are rust food, like the rims show and paint doesn't hold up to it either. you can really see all the rust in 1st photo on the top and straight bars, fenders too.  . I don't think there's much hope for the rims but, gonna find out soon enough. 

Anyways, not to steal your limelight but, to show me cleaner's effectiveness 1st clean:


----------



## jd56 (Apr 15, 2015)

Lots of sore fingers I'm sure. Looks great!

It's all about the Tanklights!!

How did I run out of room so fast?


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 15, 2015)

jd56 said:


> Lots of sore fingers I'm sure. Looks great!
> 
> It's all about the Tanklights!!
> 
> How did I run out of room so fast?




Thanks.  I'm not going to get in a hurry on this one.... I love how it rides I love how it looks; here are some more pics.


----------



## rickyd (Apr 15, 2015)

Suhweeeet, I'm a sucker for most anything with a straight downtube. Wonder if it would be to blingy with a set of whitewalls or 2.35 creams? Just a thought. Rick


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 15, 2015)

I spent some more time cleaning this today. I gave it a thorough WD-40 bath and then started cleaning it with #0000 steel wool and 1000 grit sandpaper, wet sanding. 
I started in an inconspicuous area and really liked the burgundy that was showing underneath the layer of rust on this paint. 







I haven't done much of the frame yet but started with the fenders and chain guard and forks. I did the easy part of the rims with the steel wool and water.


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 15, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> I spent some more time cleaning this today. I gave it a thorough WD-40 bath and then started cleaning it with #0000 steel wool and 1000 grit sandpaper, wet sanding.
> I started in an inconspicuous area and really liked the burgundy that was showing underneath the layer of rust on this paint.
> 
> I haven't done much of the frame yet but started with the fenders and chain guard and forks. I did the easy part of the rims with the steel wool and water.




Knew it! Once ya got a taste of that burgundy,, there's no going back! 

Now, if you'll pass the elbow grease my way, you can start on my burgundy  western flyer next [grin] 


Those rims are a solid 'bitchen man'! 

Although I've taken some of the house paint off since this photo Mine sits in a state of dream burgundy currently, (elbo grease is in short supply fer me) you can see it where chain-guard has been scratched. Many, many, year ago, somebody sprayed a can of metal flake burgundy over it that's all dried out now and too hard to emulsify without eating the original color too. Not to leave out, the white paint and  stripes are so dried they begin to wipe off  too quick. . .   and I only wish it had those rims too because, they're  white under that spray, with burgundy stripes. estimated as an 49-50 WF. Otherwise,  also peaked fenders,  it's your bike's younger sister.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 16, 2015)

*Pretty nice....*



rustjunkie said:


> When you open the hub check the date codes on the parts. If they're the same or the majority are, then IMO it's a safe bet that's the mfr date of the hub.
> I'll bet you one Mexican Coke (cold) payable at the next Monrovia ride that the parts will have "I" stamps




So; I am working on bringing this bike to the Monrovia ride this Sat. for a Coke from rustjunkie and to let fordmike65 take a look to see if I did ok with my decision to see if I could get it nicer....
1940 Western Flyer with rear hub part dated J4











I used water and 0000 steel wool to do as much as I am for now... I think it could be nicer if I tore it all apart and finished each piece, buffed and waxed it.... I will ride it like this for awhile. 
This is the 1st bike that I have received into my hands that has not been in anybody's collection. So I got to do with it what looked best to me. It is Super Cool and I love it.


----------



## cyclingday (Apr 16, 2015)

It looks super good, Mark.
Nice job bring the color out without blowing off the pin stripes.


----------



## rustjunkie (Apr 16, 2015)

Beautiful! I'll happily settle up on Saturday


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 23, 2015)

rustjunkie said:


> Alright, back to wrenching, tripple3, you're burnin' daylight here: we expect to see that bike on the road for tomorrow's What bike did you ride today?  post.




I have rode it quite a bit took a couple more pics and love the way the bike rides and looks. If I do anymore it will be to tear it apart completely spokes from the hubs clean everything and put it back together like new. Right now I like having a mix of crusty with cleaned.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 23, 2015)

cyclingday said:


> It looks super good, Mark.
> Nice job bring the color out without blowing off the pin stripes.




Thanks Marty. It wasn't easy for me to take my time either. 
Today I installed my Western Flyer pedals that I got from SkidkingsVBC they ride awesome.


----------



## SKIDKINGSVBC (Apr 23, 2015)

RIDE -ON  ! Those pedals looks AWESOME on the Flyer!  Nice job! There is nothing like a tank-less bike ....They look awesome ...


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 30, 2015)

Thanks Gary. I love this bike.
Looking at CWC frames is confusing. Fleet Wing, Road Master, Hawthorne, Western Flyer, Clipper, etc. etc.
Down tube straight then curved then straight again...    Seat and chain stays straight then curved...  Who can keep track? CWCMan???
The frames look different in the same mfg years it seems. Or they took last years Road Master and made it this years Western Flyer??
I really like most of them; some more than others.
Everyone that rides any of them, and a lot of other mfgrs., say CWC bikes ride Awesome! I agree with that.
This serial starts with G and have been told its 1940



SKIDKINGSVBC said:


> RIDE -ON  ! Those pedals looks AWESOME on the Flyer!  Nice job! There is nothing like a tank-less bike ....They look awesome ...


----------



## Jeff54 (Apr 30, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> Thanks Gary. I love this bike.
> Looking at CWC frames is confusing. Fleet Wing, Road Master, Hawthorne, Western Flyer, Clipper, etc. etc.
> Down tube straight then curved then straight again...    Seat and chain stays straight then curved...  Who can keep track? CWCMan???
> The frames look different in the same mfg years it seems. Or they took last years Road Master and made it this years Western Flyer??
> ...




Bike looks awesome now, it's such a kick butt color and the decorative paint on fenders and pin stripes  kicks into fast drive. 

I've read but not tried it, yet, white vinegar is suppose to remove the 'patina' on the head badge and not harm the nickel plate and paint. I just don't have any white vinegar otherwise, I'd know fer sure.


----------



## bikiba (Apr 30, 2015)

The before and after is awesome! Nice job!!


----------



## bikiba (Apr 30, 2015)

bikiba said:


> The before and after is awesome! Nice job!!




one more thing to add is that i think u shld do a wire cleaning on the fender braces... or maybe use the same derust methods you used on the rest of the bike.

that 1000 grit sandpaper is an inspiration for some of my bikes to bring the paint back.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 30, 2015)

Theres always one more thing....
which is why this is my 1st attempt at making it nicer. I dig the results but it shows the other areas I didn't do...should do...could do...dont wanna do right now...lets ride.
Il get back to cleaning some day....
Riding now...



bikiba said:


> one more thing to add is that i think u shld do a wire cleaning on the fender braces... or maybe use the same derust methods you used on the rest of the bike.
> 
> that 1000 grit sandpaper is an inspiration for some of my bikes to bring the pain back.


----------



## tripple3 (May 7, 2015)

I installed Fat Frank's on this bike and think they look pretty sharp.


----------



## tripple3 (May 20, 2015)

I really love the look of this bike. I don't think I will do much else on it anytime soon.
The next steps require chemicals not abrasives such  remove cad plating on fender braces spokes and nipples. 
That also requires me take it all apart not ride it that day  
It's a great bike and definitely a keeper. 







Do you remember what it looked like when I got it?


----------



## rollfaster (May 20, 2015)

tripple3 said:


> I really love the look of this bike. I don't think I will do much else on it anytime soon.
> The next steps require chemicals not abrasives such  remove cad plating on fender braces spokes and nipples.
> That also requires me take it all apart not ride it that day
> It's a great bike and definitely a keeper.
> ...




This bike is beautiful to me. I like it more every time I see it. Rob.


----------



## tripple3 (May 26, 2015)

*1940 Western Flyer*



rollfaster said:


> This bike is beautiful to me. I like it more every time I see it. Rob.




Thanks Rob I agree.
I mounted a rearview mirror and rode it down to the beach and took another pic. Great Riding and looking bike.


----------



## tripple3 (Jun 8, 2015)

bikiba said:


> The before and after is awesome! Nice job!!




Thank you

I rode this bike almost 40 miles to the cyclone coaster ride and some more after I got home I really enjoy this heavy tankless cruiser.


----------



## tripple3 (Jun 15, 2015)

*Awesome Rider.....*

This bike is really heavy and rides really well.


----------



## tripple3 (Aug 26, 2015)

I am very pleased with the restoration of the original Troxel saddle that was on it. Rustjunkie is a Craftsman and excellent at all the details. It is the most comfortable saddle I have.











I also added paperboy hooks to the bars because I delivered the Huntington Beach Independent to 150 houses 2 days/week for over 3 years in the neighborhood my mom still lives in. I started young getting up early to ride....


----------



## tripple3 (Nov 2, 2015)

*Western Flyer; 1940 CWC*

I wanted to bump this thread with some fresh pics from some long rides I have taken on this heavy cruiser. 







I am planning on tearing it completely down; spokes and nipples, removing the fenders and all the parts to clean completely....
I also really like the fact that this bike has never had that done to it since it was new… Hence my hesitation.
And it rides great like it is.


----------



## tripple3 (Mar 9, 2016)

Bump with some fresh pics









I have been watching CWC frame styles for a long time now and I still have yet to see this exact one, any other year or model.
Straight down tube, curved stays, and crescent truss forks


----------



## BLWNMNY (Mar 9, 2016)

tripple3 said:


> Bump with some fresh pics
> View attachment 293592View attachment 293593View attachment 293594View attachment 293595
> I have been watching CWC frame styles for a long time now and I still have yet to see this exact one, any other year or model.
> Straight down tube, curved stays, and crescent truss forks



Man, that thing turned out nice!


----------



## tripple3 (Mar 10, 2016)

Thanks BLWNMNY
I took some Photos today...pics are taken w/phones


----------



## tripple3 (Jun 13, 2016)

I really love this bike and so I spent some money to upgrade the Western Flyer pedals; found here on the cabe. Received in the mail today thank you @brwstrmgmt





I took it for a ride and really like how they feel and look on the bike


----------



## tech549 (Aug 25, 2016)

Jeff54 said:


> I'd take that 36 on the hub as the year, and followed with 11 as November, although dating morrow hubs is supposa-ta be a letter,
> "##E = 1935
> ##F = 1936
> ##G = 1937
> ...



 here are some pics of the inner parts ,you can see the code on the end of the cones


----------



## Saving Tempest (Aug 25, 2016)

It would be super neat if you could find paperboy bags to finish off this reliving of  your childhood delivering newspapers, use them to carry groceries maybe.


----------



## Jeff54 (Aug 26, 2016)

> here are some pics of the inner parts ,you can see the code on the end of the cones




It's possible that your hub was repaired with older parts but I also think the dates on parts may have been continued through the life of its production.


That frame, it's mysterious, an drop out ear for stand and curved down tubes makes it transitional.  I've tried to discover another that guys, years ago, back into 2008 and up, attempted to make a serial number data base, I'd thought presented it but I can't find it. Those that were brought up didn't have ears hence I think most figured 1941 was the last year for them on CWC frames and drop bars curving

but it's got to be post 1941. But then, that makes it a war time bike without blackout parts. however, surely bikes in 1942 were not all black outs because the US was just getting geared up. I think, pretty good odds yours is last production, transitional 1942.

There's also the likely hood your rims and or small parts  are older, yet, there's another door, built with prewar parts due to war effort ending production. Last frame made as the war era began with old stock parts.. and the old, it's been repaired with old parts; blackouts, perhaps, striped off post war.

All that effort back in 2008 to create a data base, yet, the main ingredients of their collection was never combined for peps to access easily.  36-41 letter codes, war era differences and codes etc.


----------



## tripple3 (Sep 28, 2016)

Saving Tempest said:


> It would be super neat if you could find paperboy bags to finish off this reliving of  your childhood delivering newspapers, use them to carry groceries maybe.



That would be cool. I would like to try to porch some morning papers just for fun.


----------



## CrazyDave (Sep 28, 2016)

I love it!


----------



## tripple3 (Oct 26, 2016)

CrazyDave said:


> I love it!




Thanks; I do too. 
Indoor parking for service bikes





The bell makes me smile


----------



## tripple3 (Feb 22, 2017)

Bump it with some fresh pics















Someone with a camera took my pic riding it in Newport


----------



## tripple3 (Jun 6, 2017)

a buddy asked me the story on my Western Flyer bump for Tankless Tuesday...


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 3, 2018)

Anniversary 3 years of riding.
I had to re-pack the rear Morrow; it was slipping occasionally before the sand; slipping often on my way home....
It is good to go now; lets ride.


 

 

 


So, Im on my 2nd set of cream Fat Franks, running Schwalbe tubes with threaded valve stems, absolutely love the saddle restoration, and have 3 years of riding rust re-building on the front of the truss rods. 
I suck at maintenance; but also love the look of a bike that is used, maybe like a kid woulda' used it.
This bike has not had these fenders removed since installed new. 
I have grown in my love of bikes; plenty of times in my life, I woulda' removed them 1st.


----------



## friendofthedevil (Apr 3, 2018)

I think this bike is fantastic.  It has a very solid or substantial look.  A bike to be taken seriously.

I really like those brick pattern pedal blocks.

BTW, What the heck is this thing?  *





*Google says  Foxtail Agave


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 3, 2018)

friendofthedevil said:


> BTW, What the heck is this thing?



IDK CABErs @cyclingday and @schwinnja are our plant experts that I know of.


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 3, 2018)

I had to work on my bike after this.
It was due anyway.


----------



## schwinnja (Apr 4, 2018)

tripple3 said:


> IDK CABErs @cyclingday and @schwinnja are our plant experts that I know of.



An expert is a former spurt!

Agave attenuata ( The flower stalk )


----------



## tripple3 (Feb 2, 2019)

Saving Tempest said:


> It would be super neat if you could find paperboy bags to finish off this reliving of your childhood delivering newspapers, use them to carry groceries maybe.



Indeed!
I scored this Baltimore Sun carrier bag from Marty @cyclingday awhile back at a Cyclone Coaster Swap and have been using it to carry my lunchbox and work pants back and forth to the shop.
"Light For All"
Childhood memories and Imagination beaming from these rides before most folks hit the snooze on the alarm....
Hittin' countless porches with Light For All in FV, HB, NPB, & WM, often and repeatedly. 











Service Rider H.D. Western Flyer
Rides really Well!


----------



## tripple3 (Nov 27, 2019)

I'm truly thankful to enjoy this gift.
I think there is power in this bike; and the Light For All bag, that is beyond imagination.
Since my last post here, we wore out the rear tire.
Up to Monrovia, through the San Gabriel River in Feb.
Back and forth to shops in HB and CM
Up and down hills of San Francisco and Marin, including legendary Mt. Tam in July.
My personal record: Oct. 8, 2019, 120 miles in one day, 5:55 AM 'til the sun set in Sunset.





























Light For All


----------



## spoker (Nov 27, 2019)

tripple3 said:


> I'm truly thankful to enjoy this gift.
> I think there is power in this bike; and the Light For All bag, that is beyond imagination.
> Since my last post here, we wore out the rear tire.
> Up to Monrovia, through the San Gabriel River in Feb.
> ...



;ooks sumwhat like this one


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2020)

5 Year Anniversary Bump!
Light For All.
I get to ride to work at CalTrans Shop in Orange, prevailing wage, Journeyman Electrician.
Truly grateful!


----------



## bikerbluz (Apr 1, 2020)

I love the feeling  of taking an old bicycle and “giving it’s dignity back”.  Truly food for the soul. Great to see you with your connection to your ride. Your enjoyment in riding the miles is an inspiration to us all.


----------



## tripple3 (Dec 14, 2020)

I like that the new format shows "Similar threads"; bump to see it next to the "New" thread with Same title.
They demoed another nice house in Newport, to build a "Better" one.




Heavy Equipment getting it done right.


----------



## tripple3 (Jan 27, 2021)

Three hundred and four weeks ago today, this 1940 Western Flyer WWII Service bike was found by my buddy Jim.



Is there significance to dates/numbers/mathematics/rhythms/music/sounds/waves...???...
don't know... wonder....


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2021)

Bump the Flyer found on April Fool's Day, 2015
No JOKE! hahahahahaha


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2021)

bikerbluz said:


> I love the feeling  of taking an old bicycle and “giving it’s dignity back”.  Truly food for the soul. Great to see you with your connection to your ride. Your enjoyment in riding the miles is an inspiration to us all.



Thanks!
...to Inspire to Ride....





...do it more/love it more...


----------



## ian (Apr 1, 2021)

tripple3 said:


> Thanks!
> ...to Inspire to Ride....
> View attachment 1383577
> 
> ...do it more/love it more...



@tripple3 , you definitely are an inspiration to make your ride your own. I really take time and look at every pic you post to see what "new " item you have placed somewhere on your daily rider!


----------



## tacochris (Apr 1, 2021)

This bike and its stunning original pinstripes and what you do with it pretty much represents everything I truly love about them.  Not just owning, but making memories and writing an entirely new chapter in an old bikes life when it was counted out long ago.
You got me really itchin for a long cruise now...


----------



## kentercanyon (Apr 1, 2021)

I'm quite partial to the prewar CWC Western Flyers, myself.  One of my first jobs was putting together department store bikes for a Western Auto at age 15.  The chan store started with a fifteen dollar investment, selling mail order Motel T parts and grew to a strong regional, almost national chain, I think. Any straight bar bike with a mighty Morrow coaster is a must-buy for those who built and rode Klunkers. I imagine this bike riding to a defense plant during the week and to the beach on weekends, maybe even carrying a surfboard, who knows?  Maybe it belonged to Marlyn Monroe, she worked at a defense plant.  One can dream.  The LA BL plate is a real treat, too.  By the postwar period they switched to decals, which can't be so easily removed.  That's a sweet bike and I bet it got loved by the person who owned it, they put mud flaps on it to make it special to them. Also, did they switch from balloon tires to something skinnier?


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2022)

ian said:


> @tripple3 , you definitely are an inspiration to make your ride your own. I really take time and look at every pic you post to see what "new " item you have placed somewhere on your daily rider!






tacochris said:


> This bike and its stunning original pinstripes and what you do with it pretty much represents everything I truly love about them.  Not just owning, but making memories and writing an entirely new chapter in an old bikes life when it was counted out long ago.
> You got me really itchin for a long cruise now...






kentercanyon said:


> I'm quite partial to the prewar CWC Western Flyers, myself.  One of my first jobs was putting together department store bikes for a Western Auto at age 15.  The chan store started with a fifteen dollar investment, selling mail order Motel T parts and grew to a strong regional, almost national chain, I think. Any straight bar bike with a mighty Morrow coaster is a must-buy for those who built and rode Klunkers. I imagine this bike riding to a defense plant during the week and to the beach on weekends, maybe even carrying a surfboard, who knows?  Maybe it belonged to Marlyn Monroe, she worked at a defense plant.  One can dream.  The LA BL plate is a real treat, too.  By the postwar period they switched to decals, which can't be so easily removed.  That's a sweet bike and I bet it got loved by the person who owned it, they put mud flaps on it to make it special to them. Also, did they switch from balloon tires to something skinnier?



Thank you. Truly a "Gift from Above", "Blessed beyond measure", grateful every day.
7 Year Anniversary Bump.
Calendar year 2021, Western Flyer and the Sun carrier bag, "went back to work",
hauling me and "boy's lunch", 4216 miles.
At the swap, my buddy heard, "It has been hanging in the rafters, a Long Time"; 7 years ago, on a Wednesday no-less....
Do things happen for a "REASON"?🤓🧐🤩🥳😎
Leavin' for Electrical work, at Knott's Berry Farm: 100 year old "Theme Park"...🥰




Light, Joy, Peace, LOVE!!!


----------



## tripple3 (Apr 1, 2022)

@kentercanyon Also, did they switch from balloon tires to something skinnier?
Yes look at 1st pic, 1.75" tires.



Still have the rack and bits for "flaps", and the drop stand.
I removed it because the chain "lengthening", made the brake arm hit it,
or the chain was seriously loose.
Still running the old chain and cog,
'cause they still work.😊



wearing it out, many years later....


----------



## ozzie (Apr 1, 2022)

Hi Mark. I just discovered this thread last night. Such a cool story of an amazing bike. Well done and thanks.


----------

