# I have a Whizzer, Therefore I am.



## AntonyR (Feb 20, 2010)

First a 1942 CWC Western Flyer badged "Romel's Rod".
And secondly, a 1938 Elgin Bluebird "Warbird".


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## bricycle (Feb 20, 2010)

Two very rad bikes indeed. Think I like the '42 best. I have a early '60's 24" Western Flyer with a mock cantilever frame that I stuffed an H Whiz into. I's a "rat" bike I call the "Whiztern Flyer or Whiztern Fliver".


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## AntonyR (Feb 24, 2010)

My WF has since been dismantled, and the 3-gill frame(correctly dimpled for a Whizzer shieve), fenders w/ curved braces(as shown in the picture), and a few other misc parts from that build are available if someone wants to build a Whizzer or motorized bike. PM me if interested.


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## MaxGlide (Mar 11, 2010)

*brakes on front*

Hey there,

Looks like you have drum brakes on the front with the shockmaster forks. If yes, how is that working for you? Do ou find they buck  or flex backwards when you apply the brake?

thanks..... Wayne


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## AntonyR (Mar 12, 2010)

It depends on how hard you brake. As long as you brake smoothly, there's no buck. But yes, if you brake hard it does bounce a bit. You just have to get used to it. As far as just riding it down the street, the Shockmaster works well, but the springs really aren't rated to support the additional weight of the bike, so if you hit any real bumps, it bounces a bit then too. Not bad enough to change forks, but another thing you just get used to.


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## mason_man (Apr 21, 2010)

Hi AntonyR I have a 99 Whizzer with the Ne upgrades.I was wondering what all you did to keep the stock cylinder working with motor getting hot and valves seat from lifting.By the way you have some nice looking bikes


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## AntonyR (May 20, 2010)

Hello,
I really don't ride long distances, and not at constant full throttle, so I'm not generating a huge amount of heat. Plus, I'm not really comfortable yet with the local po-po so my engine had all of about 10 miles on it from new. Once I get to the point that I have hundreds of miles on it, then I'll start letting the valve seat lift possibility bother me. I'm not worried though, If it breaks, I'll just fix it, right?


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## mason_man (Jun 3, 2010)

Hi AntonyR some of the things Ive done to lower the temp was to apply a Dry Flim Coating a moly-based lubricant to the skirt of the piston helps reduce friction.Coated the top of the piston with a Thermal Barriers reflect heat,tops of intake and exhaust valves also the in side of the combustion chamber with the thermal barrier, my motor runs cooler I have pic of some of the parts if youd like to see them.


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## AntonyR (Jun 4, 2010)

Sounds good. I'm actually planning on rebuilding an H motor so I don't have a need to go through those steps. I'll just run it till it breaks, then put NE parts on my crankcase and put it on another frame. I like your pre-implosion safeguards though, squeek out some more miles out of it.. It would be interesting to hear how many miles you get from your motor though..


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