# Tips on applying waterslide decals.



## ZE52414 (Dec 31, 2017)

So here in a bit I'm going for my first attempt on waterslide decals on my iver tank. Any tips would be great. I've heard this could get real tricky real fast. Thanks in advance.


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## barracuda (Dec 31, 2017)

I'll post here what I tell folks that buy my decals:

Cut out the decal, paper and all, till you have an irregularly shaped piece of the paper with the decal on it. I don't trim too, too close because I don't want to mess with corralling little bits. But cut away the paper you aren't going to use. 

Follow any instructions you have for the soaking very closely. The ones I make take only around 10 or fifteen seconds in the water, and it seems like the decal holds together better that way. Then place the decal - backing paper and all - in position and _slide the paper out from under it_, gently holding the decal itself close to where you want it to be.

You kinda have to manage the whole thing with one hand while pulling out the paper with the other - I found it works well to *slide about an eighth to a quarter of an inch off the backing and onto the position first*, then withdraw the rest of the paper, while gently holding the decal film itself in place

You can't move it around too much after that. Some, but not a lot of play, enough to get everything straight and in position. I like to have a wet, medium (1/2 inch flat watercolor brush) brush to use to gently smooth out any bubbles. And that's it.


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## ZE52414 (Dec 31, 2017)

barracuda said:


> I'll post here what I tell folks that buy my decals:
> 
> Cut out the decal, paper and all, till you have an irregularly shaped piece of the paper with the decal on it. I don't trim too, too close because I don't want to mess with corralling little bits. But cut away the paper you aren't going to use.
> 
> ...



I appreciate the info. I will try exactly what you said! Wish me luck!!


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## catfish (Dec 31, 2017)

Great info! Thanks!


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## deepsouth (Dec 31, 2017)

You can also use a product called Solvaset. It helps decals conform to not flat shapes.  Apply with a soft brush . Resist the temptation to touch if decals look like they are puckering up.  They WILL smooth out. Used it for years on model cars with great results.


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## ZE52414 (Dec 31, 2017)

This tank is just there long enough to find a OG one . 

Decals aren't perfect, but aren't ripped or torn so that's a plus . Thanks for the good advice!


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## GTs58 (Dec 31, 2017)

I'll add a little to barracuda's instructions. I use warm water and never soak more than the 15 seconds. After soaking I set the decal down on the countertop for a minute and then I make sure the decal has completely separated from the paper. If you can move the complete decal slightly on the paper it's ready to install. If the complete decal does not slide on the paper let it set a little bit longer and it will eventually release. Trying to install a decal that has not completely released will result in a broken/split/cracked decal. In my experience, over soaking is bad and will cause the clear to cloud up so don't over soak, just let it sit on the countertop until it's fully released.


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## IngoMike (Dec 31, 2017)

The 1/2" flat Watercolor brush is a must have......


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## spoker (Dec 31, 2017)

solveset should always be part of the program,it will take out the air bubbles and increase adhesion,reduces alot of errors,saves you from have to mess with it causing damage,its like using grease and wax remover when painting


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## ccmerz (Dec 31, 2017)




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## bikemonkey (Jan 1, 2018)

May I add my .5 cent's worth. ALWAYS use a container that is long/wide enough so the decal can lie flat and not force it to curl up, thus resulting in a visit to the third circle of hell...


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## bikemonkey (Jan 1, 2018)

spoker said:


> solveset should always be part of the program,it will take out the air bubbles and increase adhesion,reduces alot of errors,saves you from have to mess with it causing damage,its like using grease and wax remover when painting



Never heard of that before - thanks! 
Here is a link for ordering.


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## morton (Jan 1, 2018)

Decal tip for OLD decals.  They usually deteriorate with age and when you try to apply them, the break up.

If they haven't yellowed (on the clear parts), I use an airbrush to spray 1 or 2 light coats of Krylon clear enamel onto the decal. (spay bomb into a cup, and pour contents into the air brush bottle).

When dry (a few hours at least), I use an Exacto knife and cut around the decal to remove as much of the clear carrier as possible, then apply as normal.

The clear will increase the thickness a bit so don't over due it, just enough to keep the decal together.  I've salvaged many old decals using this method but spraying directly from the can usually results in a too thick coating and can damage the decal.


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## 2jakes (Jan 1, 2018)

Good advice from everyone.
I use soft Q-tips to position & also to absorb the water and smooth out any area 
that needs it. 
Think like a surgeon and work gently.
Remember that there is only so much time to make corrections.
As it starts to dry any change or repositioning may break the decal.


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## morton (Jan 2, 2018)

2jakes said:


> Good advice from everyone.
> I use soft Q-tips to position & also to absorb the water and smooth out any area
> that needs it.
> Think like a surgeon and work gently.
> ...




I too use the Q-tips.  Get them at the local pharmacy  for about $8 a thousand.  They have about a 4" wooden handle and the cotton tip on just one end. Work well with decals and I find them very useful for cleaning out bearing races and other pia areas that need to be cleaned. Dip the end in solvent and you can easily clean out those areas, or any part that has thick grease in hard to reach areas. I also shave off part of the cotton end and use them to clean siphon tube and other areas on my airbrush.  .


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## atencioee (Jul 20, 2019)

One guy told me that he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area of the frame/part and allows to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that?


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## GTs58 (Jul 20, 2019)

atencioee said:


> One guy told me that he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area of the frame/part and allows to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that?




Never heard that. But I've heard that applying a light coat of clear lacquer on to the decal itself before applying, and have done this myself on older questionable decals that haven't already yellowed. It's not needed if the decals are fresh.


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## Freqman1 (Jul 20, 2019)

atencioee said:


> One guy told me that he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area of the frame/part and allows to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that?



I would not do that


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