# 1899 Columbia chainless Mod. 59



## jpromo (Aug 20, 2020)

So I have had this project for 5 years and finally got the space to set up my workshop again. It was originally purchased by an out-of-state member here and I picked it up to ship as it was local to me. I offhandedly mentioned my interest in it, he later came back and said something came up and if I was really interested, he would sell it to me.

Of course I do not have a single photo before starting and the original thread doesn't seem to exist anymore... but here's some of it during disassembly.










I took a decent number of reference photos if anybody needs a shot of something specific, let me know.


----------



## jpromo (Aug 20, 2020)

Removing the crank cover was fun. First of all, I wasn't confident of the thread orientation. Second, it was tight and likely never removed. I started using a punch but quickly realized that was a no-no as it was ovaling the pin-holes. Here's the tool I made of scrap wood, random seat post, and a drill bit:


----------



## lgrinnings (Aug 20, 2020)

Nice work. Here’s what the original Columbia tool looks like...


----------



## jpromo (Aug 20, 2020)

lgrinnings said:


> Nice work. Here’s what the original Columbia tool looks like...




That is so beautiful. I think I just missed one of the tool sets for sale right after I bought the bike.


----------



## The Admiral (Aug 20, 2020)

I’m also working on an 1899 model 59 project right now I got from another cabe member. It’s apart right now down to every last nut and bolt. Glad to see another one of these being saved!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## catfish (Aug 20, 2020)

It's nice to have the original tools to work on these. I won't do it without my original tools. I like your home made tool. Very clever.


----------



## jpromo (Aug 20, 2020)

The Admiral said:


> I’m also working on an 1899 model 59 project right now I got from another cabe member. It’s apart right now down to every last nut and bolt. Glad to see another one of these being saved!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




The plan was every nut and bolt, but the driveshaft was cranked on and I could not find any documentation denoting the thread orientation, so I didn't want to fight it and risk breaking a bevel tooth. Is the square nut inside the crank standard or reverse threaded?!


----------



## The Admiral (Aug 20, 2020)

jpromo said:


> Is the square nut inside the crank standard or reverse threaded?!




I believe it’s standard threaded, but I’ll check when I get home. If you remove the half moon piece, you can get to the back end of the driveshaft. A 15/16 socket fits perfect on it, so no risk of breaking off a tooth


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The Admiral (Aug 20, 2020)

Just got home and checked. It is standard threaded


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jpromo (Aug 21, 2020)

The Admiral said:


> I believe it’s standard threaded, but I’ll check when I get home. If you remove the half moon piece, you can get to the back end of the driveshaft. A 15/16 socket fits perfect on it, so no risk of breaking off a tooth
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks! Judging by the spinning direction and logic, standard would have been my guess. The issue with removing from the back is that you still won't be able to fully disassemble it as the driveshaft can slide out the back, but not out the front. Without a rear wheel on, I could not hold the rear bevel gear tight enough to get the front nut off. I maybe could have adjusted the lash cones in to free up that nut, but I opted to give a clean and grease as best I could in one piece. Good to know for the future if I ever restore the bike.


----------



## jpromo (Aug 21, 2020)

Bars and fork installed. Crank fully greased and reassembled. Spins smooth as silk.


----------



## jpromo (Aug 21, 2020)

Headbadge courtesy of @catfish. A slight improvement over what came with the bike.


----------



## The Admiral (Aug 21, 2020)

jpromo said:


> Thanks! Judging by the spinning direction and logic, standard would have been my guess. The issue with removing from the back is that you still won't be able to fully disassemble it as the driveshaft can slide out the back, but not out the front. Without a rear wheel on, I could not hold the rear bevel gear tight enough to get the front nut off. I maybe could have adjusted the lash cones in to free up that nut, but I opted to give a clean and grease as best I could in one piece. Good to know for the future if I ever restore the bike.




If you put a socket wrench on that rear nut, it’ll spin the whole driveshaft and loosen the square nut in front. Then the driveshaft will slide out the rear. But if it spins well, no need to mess with it. I only took it out on mine because it was caked with old, gritty grease and wouldn’t spin well at all. Good luck with the rest of your project! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jpromo (Aug 21, 2020)

The Admiral said:


> If you put a socket wrench on that rear nut, it’ll spin the whole driveshaft and loosen the square nut in front. Then the driveshaft will slide out the rear. But if it spins well, no need to mess with it. I only took it out on mine because it was caked with old, gritty grease and wouldn’t spin well at all. Good luck with the rest of your project!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Ahhhh, yes, it seems so obvious now! Thank you.


----------



## jpromo (Aug 22, 2020)

Unfortunately found one specialty piece missing--the expander to lock the seat post.



Hey, I know where I can find a wedge piece that should work.



From some Musselman guts I had laying around. Oh shoot, but the piece also needs to perfectly match the seatpost radius.



Heh, sometimes you get lucky. But now it needs some modifications to sit inside its new home.



I swear I'm not drinking in the shop. Function over fashion.



Had to thin it down just a hair.



Voila.


----------



## Velocipedist Co. (Aug 22, 2020)

jpromo said:


> Unfortunately found one specialty piece missing--the expander to lock the seat post.
> 
> View attachment 1252327
> 
> ...




Excellent work!


----------



## jpromo (Aug 22, 2020)

Velocipedist Co. said:


> Excellent work!




I got a little lucky with the radius and the length being perfect!


----------



## jpromo (Aug 22, 2020)

I posted in the wanted listings, but I will mention here that I am looking for a solid, usable, 28 hole 28" wood hoop. The 36h rear was good but of course the uncommon 28h front was blown up.

I will be getting some Deans for this and the end goal is a rider. I may still end up getting Stutzman hoops, but budget is finite right now.


----------



## jpromo (Oct 6, 2020)

Alright, after a bit of hem-hawing, trying to find an original 28h hoop, and ultimately ordering some from Stutzman, we're back to working on the chainless.

Stutzman aluminum lined 700c. Beautiful as always. Now to make them look old.



Yes, yes. Now this gave me the perfect opportunity to use one of my favorite wood finishing techniques.



Black Tea and ironized vinegar courtesy of steel wool and other assorted nuts and bolts laying around left to sit for a day or so. Brush on tea, followed up with a brush of the vinegar solution. It doesn't doesn't look like anything is happening for maybe an hour. Don't fret. The idea is that the tea absorbs into the wood, then the vinegar solution reacts with the tannic acid giving the wood an aged look. Buckle up. Two passes of this and you have a lovely, weathered gray, hundred year old hoop (set against my 100 year old wood floors).



Two coats of tung oil, which I prefer for antique finishes as it protects, but retains a natural, wood-like appearance instead of a glazed look more apt for a restored bike.


----------



## jpromo (Oct 17, 2020)

Completed wheels. 306mm Sapim race DB spokes and Panaracer GravelKing tires. Very pleased. Good thing, too, because y'all know the dough that goes into these wheelsets.


----------



## jpromo (Oct 17, 2020)

And the finished bicycle (sans front wheel nuts because I don't have a single 5/16-32 and neither does my LHS). So of course I can't ride it yet for the silliest reason.


----------



## Barnegatbicycles (Oct 17, 2020)

Did you have another rear hub or did you unlace the original one?


----------



## jpromo (Oct 17, 2020)

Barnegatbicycles said:


> Did you have another rear hub or did you unlace the original one?



Unlaced my original. Hunting?


----------



## jpromo (Oct 18, 2020)

So the axle nuts I need are 5/16-28...does anybody have any suitable nuts in this size?


----------



## David Brown (Oct 18, 2020)

Hi 
 I  have a 5/16 x 28 tap. I ran it through a 5/16 fine thread nut and it should be okay. Takes a 1/2  inch wrench. I did 2 of them.
 If you want them get back to me with your mailing address.  They are used nuts that are bicycle related with still some nickel. just PM me your address.


----------



## jpromo (Oct 18, 2020)

David Brown said:


> Hi
> I  have a 5/16 x 28 tap. I ran it through a 5/16 fine thread nut and it should be okay. Takes a 1/2  inch wrench. I did 2 of them.
> If you want them get back to me with your mailing address.  They are used nuts that are bicycle related with still some nickel. just PM me your address.



This was a thought I had as well. There is a large, old tap set at my work I'm going to check tomorrow and if not, I will likely be in touch. Thanks!


----------

