# Goodbye Elvis, Hello John Wayne!



## Tomato John (Feb 13, 2018)

My 38-39 ish Huffman with g519 parts nicknamed Elvis. Worked out a deal with Krakatoa and Elvis left the building and was replaced  with what I’m calling John Wayne

 

  Now when we put JW together with what was left of Elvis....

 hopefully someday we will have this

 looking forward to getting started on this project and am open to any and all suggestions or advice. Should I leave it?Strip it?  Carefully remove paint layers to find original od green?  I’m all ears. Thanks. J


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## johan willaert (Feb 14, 2018)

You could try to strip the paint down to Original OD, but been there, tried that and gave up
(see https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/womens-westfield-columbia-army-bicycle.66061/#post-426343

For inspiration, please check this topic on the restoration of my Original paint 1942 Huffman...
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1942-g519-huffman-bike-project.43231/

And finally my website: http://www.theliberator.be/militarybicycles.htm


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## Tomato John (Feb 14, 2018)

Hi Johan,  Your website and CABE posts are what persuaded me to pursue this project.  i really enjoy all the information that you have made available and it has been very helpful for me. Going to be fun putting this bike together.  Keep up the good work and thank you.  JR


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## johan willaert (Feb 14, 2018)

Thanks, appreciate it!


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## Tomato John (Feb 19, 2018)

Now beginning to try to remove layers of old paint to see how much OD Green was left underneath.  Began with carb cleaner- no luck.  Tried a heat gun but was worried that it would work too well.  Using a chem stripper which is working but is pretty harsh.  Working through a layer of red, blue, and possibly black and finding some green but is in rough condition.  It’s really slow going but kind of satisfying as well.  I kind of like the look- well worn and salty!


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## Tomato John (Feb 19, 2018)

Lots of green around badge but can’t tell if I’m doing more harm than good.


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## Tomato John (Feb 19, 2018)

Not much Green on top.  Pretty much bare metal. Bummer.  If there is a better way to do this let me know. Totally winging it.....


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## Tomato John (Feb 21, 2018)

Tomato John said:


> View attachment 757501Not much Green on top.  Pretty much bare metal. Bummer.  If there is a better way to do this let me know. Totally winging it.....



Paint removal is tedious and it looks like i’m removing the original paint in places as well. Contemplating whether or not to remove it all and repaint. Is it better to leave it like it is with bare patches or completely repaint?


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## johan willaert (Feb 22, 2018)

Seems you're experiencing the same trouble I had with the Women's Columbia...
Once all paint removed there were so many bare metal spots it wasn't even clear anymore just what color the frame originally was.
I do ride my restored bikes, so with that in mind I decided to strip the frame completely and repaint it the correct shade OD.
Had better luck on the Huffman; the original OD had never been covered and over 80% of the original finish, although quite worn, was still present. So I kept it that way...


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## Tomato John (Feb 22, 2018)

I was really hoping i wouldn't have to repaint.  Some of the other parts have a really nice original patina and would love to keep that look.  will have to wait and see what it looks like after removing the rest of the top layers.  You wouldn't happen to know where there is a torrington 8 left with wood blocks laying around?  I think I have pretty much everything except that and bell, pump and rear reflector.  Let me know if you happen to know where to find one of these.  Thanks,  J


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## Krakatoa (Feb 28, 2018)

Go John!

I love that you dived right in on this~ It's going to be awesome! 

N


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## Tomato John (Mar 1, 2018)

Well sadly, I don’t think there is enough original paint left to save. So now it’s on 


 

 to a complete strip and prime/paint.


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## Tomato John (Mar 4, 2018)

Picked up this the other day.  Trying to figure out what year and hoping to use fender braces to replace broken and aftermarket braces on 43.  These are still riveted to the fender -  considering just using these on 43 if they are the same style.  Bad idea?


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## Tomato John (Mar 4, 2018)

Having a little better luck with fork.  Finding green under 5 layers of paint .


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## Tomato John (Mar 11, 2018)

Patched damage from bent crank

Sand and prime 

two coats of od green


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## Tomato John (Mar 11, 2018)

Couldn’t bring myself to paint over head badge and the only remaining original paint around head tube.


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## Tomato John (Mar 12, 2018)

Coming together. New US Royal Chain tires along with fenders stripped and left with the remaining od green. Haven’t decided whether or not to redo these or leave this way.


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## JOHN DANGER (Mar 12, 2018)

looking good, rims were green too


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## Tomato John (Mar 12, 2018)

JOHN DANGER said:


> looking good, rims were green too



Yes. But these rims were on a army air corps bicycle of a family member who was in the air corps during the war, along with the saddle and tool bag when the Air Force was formed and all the od green was painted over with blue. Original bike has a sordid and undocumented past that may or may not be based in reality So I thought I would leave it for now. That’s the story from our family historian anyways.  Besides I love the blue. Makes it look more beastly.


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## Krakatoa (Mar 13, 2018)

Looking great John!!!

Beastly!

All your efforts are really starting to show! I like leaving the rims and saddle alone at least for now!

Nate


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## Tomato John (Mar 13, 2018)

Almost there!  Original od green bars with new coke bottle grips.  Thanks to Krakatoa - great way to finish it off.  Waiting on some sweet pedals - should be here by the end of the week.


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## johan willaert (Mar 14, 2018)

Lookin' good!

Don't forget to fix that brake lever to the rear forks....


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## Tomato John (Mar 14, 2018)

brakes would be good to have .....  just waiting on paint to dry.


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## Krakatoa (Mar 15, 2018)

Wowzee!!

Ahhh... so nice to see John!

This makes me happy!

What a great journey, From ME to NH with a few parts from NM & PA to RI to WA, Huffman history forward!

GO CABE!

N


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## Tomato John (Mar 18, 2018)

Putting the finishing touches on. But the guard seems like it’s riding a little high.  It could be my imagination but it looks a bit off.  Not sure how I can bring it down with the supports being fixed to the guard.  Anybody out there with a bike like this have a tape measure handy?  Looking for the distance between guard height and cranks in the vertical position.


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## removed (Mar 18, 2018)

.


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## GTs58 (Mar 18, 2018)

:eek:.....


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## johan willaert (Mar 19, 2018)

Does this help?

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1942-g519-huffman-bike-project.43231/page-2#post-338704

Also you may have fitted the chainring the wrong way... just compare to original pictures...
Not that it would really matter


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## Tomato John (Mar 19, 2018)

johan willaert said:


> Does this help?
> 
> https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1942-g519-huffman-bike-project.43231/page-2#post-338704
> 
> ...



I don't know if that would change anything or not.  I thought that i had put it back the way it was removed but wouldn't surprise me if it was wrong.  The ring has some grooves from contact with frame(?) so i assumed it was in the right position  I was wondering if the spot welded brackets were different  positions on the guard for frames with straight down tubes vs. the curved tube. - and if so could this guard be incorrect?


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## Krakatoa (Mar 23, 2018)

Yerps!

It looks like this one is all my fault John....









2nd pic shows the higher mounting. I did not realize one I had was different. At least it's only a couple of spotwelds.

N


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## Tomato John (Mar 23, 2018)

Do u still have it or did the sale go through?  J


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## Tomato John (Mar 23, 2018)

So here’s two shots of my guard . Notice the front detail stamping.


 

I borrowed this image below from current G519 sale thread (iswingping).  Notice the difference. So I’m assuming this is the correct guard for a 43.  So anyone know what year(s) the guard is on my bike?


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## TJWine (Apr 5, 2018)

I have seen both styles on restored bikes. Although not sure which is correct. The guard you have with the ridge on top was patented in 1940. I believe thats what is on my 1943, but its not original to the frame.


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## TJWine (Apr 5, 2018)

Yes, yours is correct. More info here:
http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=198891


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## Tomato John (Apr 5, 2018)

TJWine said:


> Yes, yours is correct. More info here:
> http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=198891



That answers my question.  Thanks for the info.


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## TJWine (Apr 7, 2018)

Nice work John! My 43 huffman was also repainted blue postwar. Did you still need a reflector? I think I have an extra. Used, but original w OD paint.


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## Tomato John (Apr 7, 2018)

TJWine said:


> Nice work John! My 43 huffman was also repainted blue postwar. Did you still need a reflector? I think I have an extra. Used, but original w OD paint.



Thanks!  Can’t wait to actually take it for a test ride. Snow finally melted and now it’s raining nonstop. As for a reflector, Would love to find one.  How much are u asking for it?


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## TJWine (Apr 7, 2018)

Tomato John said:


> Thanks!  Can’t wait to actually take it for a test ride. Snow finally melted and now it’s raining nonstop. As for a reflector, Would love to find one.  How much are u asking for it?



I'll send you a PM.


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## Tomato John (Dec 16, 2018)

After a lot of messing around with chainguards- I was able to track down the original and thanks to caber Mark (eisopt) got it back and now I am almost finished. Couple of little things left. I found this cool old knapsack and thought it would go well with the bike. Date is pretty close too.


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## Mercian (Jan 8, 2019)

Hi John,

Nice work piecing this together.

The knapsack is an Officer's/Paratrooper's/Armoured Infantry musette bag, quite rare and difficult to find in good condition now.

I'm starting an update on the G519 serial number lists (it's been a couple of years, and there's a few more frames around).

Please could you confirm (if you want to!) the serial numbers on your frame. I read H187320, which would be the latest number recorded. Is the date 1944, and the other code number 3?

Also, there should be 2 or 3 numbers stamped on the back of the top of the fork. Are they readable?

Thanks for your help.

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## Tomato John (Jan 8, 2019)

Mercian said:


> Hi John,
> 
> Nice work piecing this together.
> 
> ...



Hi Adrian. Good to hear from you. I will verify numbers after work. J


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## Mercian (Jan 8, 2019)

Hi John,

And Thanks (-: Always good to hear from you too.

Found the bb number here:

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1...ern-flyer-43-huffman-g519.125770/#post-844310

Still interested in the fork number if it's there. there's an example here in the last photo:

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1943-dayton-huffman-ww2-military-issue-frame-fork.142358/

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## Tomato John (Jan 8, 2019)

Mercian said:


> Hi John,
> 
> And Thanks (-: Always good to hear from you too.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the links,  those numbers always look like someone was under the influence when they stamped them.  hard to read sometimes.  I will send you a pic of the forks later today.  did you want the hub dates as well?


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## Mercian (Jan 8, 2019)

Hi John, 

if you can get the hub date too, yes please.

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## Tomato John (Jan 8, 2019)

Mercian said:


> Hi John,
> 
> if you can get the hub date too, yes please.
> 
> ...


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## Tomato John (Jan 8, 2019)

Will try again.


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## Mercian (Jan 9, 2019)

Hi John,

Thanks for doing that. (-:

You probably know that the 113 corresponds to a manufacture date for the fork of November 1943. Because of this and the 1943 date stamped on the bb, I think the serial number is H157329. As you said, the stamping is all over the place!

Iswingping has one very close in serial to yours, 113 on the fork, and H157495. Some good pictures here:

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/surprise-its-a-1943-huffman.62195/

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## Tomato John (Jan 9, 2019)

Mercian said:


> Hi John,
> 
> Thanks for doing that. (-:
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info Adrian. One would think that whoever created the stamps would have made the characters (especially 1’s and 7’s) a little more unique to prevent confusion. Thanks for your time.  Take care. John


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