# Iver Johnson Model 90 Road Racer - So I Bought It...what Next?



## the freewheeler (Feb 8, 2016)

Following my recent thread inquiring about this bike's value, I decided that I'd at least make an offer for it. Fortunately, the seller accepted and I'm proud to now call this bike mine!

It's either a 1937 or 1938 Model 90 Road Racer, and everything appears to be 100% original (Please check out the photos and let me know if you agree). Serial # is 577497. Most notably, the IJ grips are in bad shape, and the tires do not hold air. The tires are marked "United States Special Racer" and the rims are marked as Boston patent 1893 wood laminate "Alma Mich." The saddle is a Mesinger Supreme Racer. Images are poor for now, so let me know if you'd like a better shot of anything in particular.

My plan is to disassemble the entire bike and give everything a good cleaning before putting her back together. With the poor condition of the grips, what would you all recommend? Should I get a hold of replacements and just hang on to what's left of the originals? Should I make an effort to fix the tires? The rear spokes are quite oxidized; should I leave as-is, replace, or disassemble the complete wheel to clean and then rebuild?

I'm full of questions because this is my first antique bike, so please give me your 2 cents for what I should do!


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## Handyman (Feb 8, 2016)

Bike looks great!  The chrome appears to be in fantastic shape.  There are a few things that may not be 100% original but they are minor.  Can you detect any "script" on the hubs?  They may say either New Departure or Iver Johnson.  Pete in Fitchburg


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## the freewheeler (Feb 8, 2016)

Yes, the hubs say "New Departure S.M." over "Made In U.S.A." in standard block script.

I've already hit a couple disassembly snafus...
First, there are no dropouts in the fork, just holes. How in the world do you remove the front wheel without disassembling the hub?




Second, my modern chain tools do not fit with the skiptooth chain. Also, there are two very distinct type of links, which should I remove? Do I go after it with a punch and hammer?


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## kccomet (Feb 8, 2016)

wow.....im impressed


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## ivrjhnsn (Feb 8, 2016)

What do you do now?....SMILE.
The  axle that sticks thru the least,,pull the fork blake away and force that side out, then pull the other side out.
 Chain..master link    no tool need, you can "bend " the chain so the 2 pins release the side plate, may take some practice


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## Handyman (Feb 8, 2016)

I believe the New Departure hubs would be correct for a late 1938ish Model 90  Road Racer.  The 1937 IJ Catalog lists an "Iver Johnson Plain Type" rear hub, the 1938 catalog lists a "New Departure Plain Type" rear hub. The front wheel will come off the fork, you simply have to "bend" the fork outward for one axle, then the other will come out easily.  Pete in Fitchburg


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## the freewheeler (Feb 8, 2016)

ivrjhnsn said:


> What do you do now?....SMILE.
> The  axle that sticks thru the least,,pull the fork blake away and force that side out, then pull the other side out.
> Chain..master link    no tool need, you can "bend " the chain so the 2 pins release the side plate, may take some practice




haha...smile? I'm downright giddy!

thanks, the plate on the chain popped off pretty easily and the wheel's off...looking pretty good so far


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## the freewheeler (Feb 8, 2016)

Got it all apart, aside from the crank/bb. Looks to me like the non-driveside crankarm is held on with this slotted nut. I assume there is a specific tool for this, which I don't have. I was unable to break it loose using a punch and hammer. Is there a good trick one of you guys knows?

I didn't cause the marring on the nut, btw.


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## ivrjhnsn (Feb 8, 2016)

Left hand thread on slotted nut, then a separation /splitter for the crank arm


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## DonChristie (Feb 8, 2016)

Great bike! Once that nut is loose on crank now the fun begins! The crank has a tapered end where the crank arm slides on. Can be quite challenging to get loose. Are you gonna ride her?


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## the freewheeler (Feb 8, 2016)

Thanks, guys. Nut quickly came off after I started knocking it the correct direction, haha. Now to just pry this dang crankarm off...

I don't plan to ride it...I'd hate to cause any damage to the rims. I'd just like to make her as shiny as possible.


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## DonChristie (Feb 9, 2016)

All our hearts just sank a little! Come on, man! It's a bike made to be ridden! If they are metal clad rims, you have nothing to worry about. Jus playin with ya!


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## Handyman (Feb 9, 2016)

I learned this little trick from Ivrjhnsn........................when all else fails, this "ball joint removal tool" and a heavy hammer will usually work.  Just be careful not to damage anything in the process.  Pete in Fitchburg


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## ivrjhnsn (Feb 9, 2016)

Here's  a mini arm splitter/remover I am making out of stainless steel.


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## the freewheeler (Feb 9, 2016)

schwinndoggy said:


> All our hearts just sank a little! Come on, man! It's a bike made to be ridden! If they are metal clad rims, you have nothing to worry about. Jus playin with ya!




Haha...nono, it's not just that. The tires aren't rideable, and the wheels need to be completely rebuilt. I am taking it all completely apart, but I'm not a wheel builder and don't claim to be. My intent is to keep this as absolutely authentic and original as possible.

Thanks Ivr and Handyman...I'm going to try to get my hands on a gear puller and/or a ball joint removal tool today.


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## Duchess (Feb 9, 2016)

For the slotted nut, I got a wide paint chisel, ground the edge flat, and an indent for clearance of the bolt in the middle. I used a puller to remove the crank, but mine being ~1912 has the nut on the drive side, which gave the puller something for both arms to grab onto.

I saved the original wheels and got modern replacement wood wheels. I ride it quite often and it rides very well. Have fun!


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## hashbrown (Feb 9, 2016)

I'm loving this old girl.... Beautiful! Lots of class.


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## catfish (Feb 9, 2016)

Very nice!


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## the freewheeler (Feb 9, 2016)

UPDATE!

She's 100% broken down and nearly all the bits and pieces have been cleaned. I hope to begin piecing her back together tomorrow. I want to specifically thank Pete (Handyman) and Scott (ivrjhnsn) for answering a lot of questions via message. This would have been much more of a headache without you both.

Bare frame cleaned up:




Most of the metal bits cleaned and oiled:




Rear wheel disassembled - spokes and hub were very badly oxidized, so I broke it down to clean up as much as possible. Lockring was stripped, so I couldn't remove the cog to remove the drive side spokes. I like that it still looks sweaty:




Sneak peek of the BSA Paratrooper I also picked up...plan to make a thread in the military forum for this one as well:


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## Robertriley (Feb 9, 2016)

ivrjhnsn said:


> Here's  a mini arm splitter/remover I am making out of stainless steel.
> 
> View attachment 283915



You sell those


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## Robertriley (Feb 9, 2016)

bowersmb said:


> UPDATE!
> 
> She's 100% broken down and nearly all the bits and pieces have been cleaned. I hope to begin piecing her back together tomorrow. I want to specifically thank Pete (Handyman) and Scott (ivrjhnsn) for answering a lot of questions via message. This would have been much more of a headache without you both.
> 
> ...



Let my know when you are tired of your BSA.  It would look great sitting next to mine.  I always wanted one


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## the freewheeler (Feb 17, 2016)

I realized I haven't posted an update since everything has been cleaned up...she turned out very well. Enjoy!


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## schwinnderella (Feb 27, 2016)

1936 Iver Johnson catalog


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## Jeff54 (Mar 21, 2016)

schwinnderella said:


> 1936 Iver Johnson catalogView attachment 290032 View attachment 290033 View attachment 290034 View attachment 290035




Apparently in 1938 60 bucks for Iver's highest end bike was serious money. On the gold scale, 1936-39 was $35 an ounce but legal tender would have gotten 3 double eagles for it. 3 double eagles today, off hand, is about $1,400 each due to the collectible nature of em so, it doesn't count but is $4200. While gold value @ $35 verses about $1,200 an ounce today, yer still looking at a comparable cost of  about $2,050 in today's money. $2k plus for today's bike is for the serious rider. it's goes to say that, things haven't changed as much as peps think.


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## Duchess (Mar 21, 2016)

I don't think it's exactly comparable in terms of percentage of relative average wealth, but this is according to the inflation calculator.

$1008.98

http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl?cost1=60.00&year1=1938&year2=2016


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## Jeff54 (Mar 21, 2016)

Duchess said:


> $1008.98
> 
> http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl?cost1=60.00&year1=1938&year2=2016



Yeah probably, which would estimate average income of $53k, from 2014, but, I donna no anybody who's cashing those checks. alternatively 1938's $1,700 average income sounds more feasible, I donno that eider as me was no there too. I think it came out too, today yur getting, like 48 ounces of pure gold whereas back then you only got, like 27.. which should mean your buying power is greater, in the range of double, hence your 1 Grand assessment.

So, I liked my gold estimate and I'm sticking too it, [smirking big grin]


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