# Use your bike stand as a wheel stand



## bikemonkey (Mar 1, 2022)

I (once again) began the drudgery of cleaning the rusty steel rim beds from an old Schwinn with a drill and wire brush wheel. Trying to hold the wheel between my legs and keeping the spinning wire brush in the rim bed is a PITA and gets old very quick. The drill likes to hop out of the rim bed and go for meat and the rust dust is right in your face.  It is my least favorite part of a deep clean but all part of the show. At some point yesterday in my contemplation of the task at hand, it occurred to me to clamp the wheel in my Park work stand.

Keep in mind I have been in the bicycle business off and on since the mid 70s in a number of shops as well as the wholesale end, and I have never heard of this simple shop tip. It works great and being able to rotate it across its axis is a bonus. It also made the cleaning of the hub a lot easier rather than having it slide around my work bench while prying out the dust caps, etc.

It only took me a few  decades to evolve to this method but I never claimed to be the sharpest tool in the shed...


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## GTs58 (Mar 1, 2022)

That just gave me an idea on how to make it even easier and faster! Cleaning wheels has to be one of my most unfavorite things when refurbing a bike. I wonder how well this will work. Flip the bike over like we did as kids, remove the wheels, take off the tires, remount the wheels, clamp the drill in the bike stand, slide the stand with drill up to the wheel, then turn on the drill and slowly spin the wheel while you sip your coffee and smoke a cigarette. 🤪


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Mar 1, 2022)

🙂


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## 3-speeder (Mar 7, 2022)

.....and those little wire bristles fly off and get in your beard and everywhere else...  hate that.  You know what I'm saying cause your wheel looks as tattered as mine.  I gotta try this.


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## J-wagon (Mar 7, 2022)

3-speeder said:


> and those little wire bristles fly off and get in your beard and everywhere else... hate that.



Yup. I find them in my socks, boxers, shirt, gloves, etc when I feel them poking. Tweezers handy to extract from feet.


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Mar 18, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> That just gave me an idea on how to make it even easier and faster! Cleaning wheels has to be one of my most unfavorite things when refurbing a bike. I wonder how well this will work. Flip the bike over like we did as kids, remove the wheels, take off the tires, remount the wheels, clamp the drill in the bike stand, slide the stand with drill up to the wheel, then turn on the drill and slowly spin the wheel while you sip your coffee and smoke a cigarette. 🤪



Hey GT! Let’s see some of your bikes!?


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## GTs58 (Apr 12, 2022)

Porkchop & Applesauce said:


> Hey GT! Let’s see some of your bikes!?




I've been going thru your posts looking for the measurements you did on the 1946 drop out thickness. Found this post but still looking for the measurements. lol  
Here's my oldest Schwinn. 1941 original paint hanging in the stand.


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 12, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> I've been going thru your posts looking for the measurements you did on the 1946 drop out thickness. Found this post but still looking for the measurements. lol
> Here's my oldest Schwinn. 1941 original paint hanging in the stand.
> 
> View attachment 1605974



Good evening!
Wow! That bike is beautiful!! Hard to believe that there’s a prewar cantilever with original paint that looks that amazing! 
 I’ll see if I can measure out my 46 for ya tomorrow!


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## GTs58 (Apr 12, 2022)

Porkchop & Applesauce said:


> Good evening!
> Wow! That bike is beautiful!! Hard to believe that there’s a prewar cantilever with original paint that looks that amazing!
> I’ll see if I can measure out my 46 for ya tomorrow!



I'd appreciate it! You posted them before, but I can't find that post. 

Here it is as found.


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 12, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> I'd appreciate it! You posted them before, but I can't find that post.
> 
> Here it is as found. View attachment 1605995



Wonderful job cleaning it up! Amazing find! Happy to help Gt!


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 13, 2022)

Good afternoon! 
i measured the rear drop outs today. Looks to be 130 thousands.


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 13, 2022)

The kick stand is at a 54 degrees angle to the crank bearing and is braised welded.


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 13, 2022)

Hey Gt! I’m curious how thick the drop outs are on your 41? What’s the 41 badged as?


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## GTs58 (Apr 13, 2022)

Porkchop & Applesauce said:


> Hey Gt! I’m curious how thick the drop outs are on your 41? What’s the 41 badged as?




Thank you very much for the info and the great pictures! I owe ya! 
And the later drop outs are 158 thousands, 4.02 mm. Any idea when Schwinn went to the thicker pieces? End of 46 production or later? 
Still trying to sort this all out and the more pieces that show up the more confusing it gets. Only good explanation is, Schwinn used various pre stamped BB shells in various years with the I series being all over the board. Same with the C series. I've found one straight bar frame I series serial with the prewar style rear tubular fender bridge. That one detail tells me that it's earlier than 1946. 

My Streamliner has the BFG badge and regular rear fork end, no drop outs. I don't have quick easy access to measure it. The 1940 and 41 New Worlds were the first Schwinns to actually have the drop outs and I assume they are also 130 thousands or 3.302 mm pieces but without the hole for the fender stays and accessories.


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 13, 2022)

Your very welcome! I too am confused with the earlier post war numbers but what I’m thinking is if it has thin drop outs and the small prewar style font for the vin…..it’s a 45. Schwinn had a bunch of stamped bb that they couldn’t use when the war bikes started. So when regular production started back up they used em. Then when they had to start stamping the again the font was larger like the one on my 46. Can’t prove it but that’s what I am thinking happened. I did a 47 last year and it had the thicker drop outs so I feel confident that changed in 47. I also noticed that the raised AS bolts are shorter than the stamped ones. I know that the 41 weld on seat post clamp has a step on one side to accommodate these bolts and the length on the raised as is perfect. The left is the raised AS and the right is the stamped as. 
 I do realize that the prewar used rear facing drop outs but I am curious if they were also the thinner steel. Knowing that Schwinn used what they had before they changed to something else. I haven’t had my hands on a prewar cantilever to measure the drop outs. My prewar straight bar is .155. Also curious if your 41 has the hump on the top bar?


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## Porkchop & Applesauce (Apr 13, 2022)

What I’m thinking is because Schwinn used what they had before moving to the next change that maybe the way to possibly id the 45’s. So drop out thickness, kick stand angles ect from the 41’s may have carried over


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