# Resurrection vs. Restoration



## TR6SC (Jun 26, 2017)

I'm starting to think my new/old Wingbar is like an adopted pound puppy. A good dog that's been abused. It was purchased sight unseen from a non-bike person. Questions having to do with condition fell upon deaf ears. So the pooch is mine, and that's that!
Problem #1 was addressed today. The rear axle/chain adjusters were broken many years ago. Someone tried to drill them out. As Alex would say, "Real Horrorshow!" I've got a buddy with an EDM. Electrical Discharge Machine. You put in the electrode that is appropriatlely sized and it eats through whatever is in its way. Now that the steel is gone, I can arc in some aluminum and go about the process of getting some threads in place.
This bike will never see all the bells and whistles that some have, but it is certainly worth a trip to the vet!


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## mike j (Jun 26, 2017)

Onward & upward, it can only get better. Looking forward to seeing how you take this.


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## TR6SC (Jul 8, 2017)

Here's the Beast. The frozen broken  axle adjusters are only the start. 


The seatpost will not come out. Neither secret sauce nor heat has helped. The pipe wrench and the vise only mangle metal. Like I said earlier, somebody beat on the brat with a baseball bat! 

I've chosen to drill. Having only bits up to 1/2", I haven't completed the job. Working gradually, 1/16" at a time, I'm staying centered in the post. 

I'll finish later this week at a friend's well stocked shop. Sad to say, this slotted sex-bolt was also frozen beyond salvation. It's going to be work, work, work...








New key!

















I was able to find a lady's fork that I'm going to spin in the lathe for the 1"-24tpi that it needs further down the stem.


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## 56 Vette (Jul 12, 2017)

Awesome! Watching this one, I'm sure it turn out just as amazing as the others I've seen you work on! Joe


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## TR6SC (Sep 13, 2017)

Finally got to the seatpost on the Wingbar. My theory was to work up through the drill sizes to always stay centered in the seatpost. The blue tape was the depth of the post, so I didn't want to get off centered. The frame is only 1/16 thick.


Problem number 2 is that long drill bits are pricey and there is no such animal as an extension. A buddy has a lathe, so I made one.


I was able to follow the inside hole of the seatpost while stepping up 1/16 at a time. I drilled all the metal except the bottom angled portion of the post  


I want to clean up the top of the seat post. Will one of the experts post a photo showing what that area looks like? Thanks. And, what is the little hole on the casting for? Thanks. Finally, what's the diameter of the seat post? Thanks again.


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## vincev (Sep 13, 2017)

Please keep updating with pictures.


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## TR6SC (Nov 5, 2017)

Now that the kinks and twists are out of the bike, I'm going after the other aspects of the damage to the frame.

 
Not only were there dings and scratches, the inner surfaces were riddled with casting marks that were never detailed in 1936. Hmmm, imagine that!

 
These craters need to be filled in order to save the Serial #s.


More heavy filing to smoooooth.


The broken adjusters and the broken drill bits are now gone. These areas will be filled with molten lava or aluminum, whichever is available. I'll drill and tap through solid metal. 


 
What a mess. These axle slots will get squeezed to 3/8" and more filling and filing to tidy up the rear end. 



I'm looking forward to going at this bike with some fine grit sandpaper, at least #1500.


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## gkeep (Nov 12, 2017)

Your going to be the Emperor of Silver Kings!


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## TR6SC (Nov 12, 2017)

gkeep said:


> Your going to be the Emperor of Silver Kings!



That ain't gonna happen. There're already a few big boys playing the game. I'm just looking to get on the Court!


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## TR6SC (Dec 2, 2017)

Baby Steps! After filling the cut out drop-outs, I did some rough shaping to get things into shape, and finally drill and tap.




 
#3 drill bit (0.213") leaves just the right amount of metal to cut the 1/4-28 threads. The rear end is now ready to grind and sand to #220.


Once all areas of the Wingbar look like this, I will decide how polished it's going to be. I'm starting to think along the lines of #600, followed up by Scotchbrite.


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## Talewinds (Dec 2, 2017)

You're doing some terrific work on that frame, it's worth saving! If you sand it to 600, might as well keep going. I had to start with a file on some spots on mine, then work my way up to 2000, finishing with Maas metal polish. I say it like it's no big deal, then again, I'm still procrastinating doing my handle bars and speedo stem because the memory of doing the frame must not be far enough out of my mind yet...


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## TR6SC (Dec 2, 2017)

I hear you in regards to the easy part being the grits above #600, it's the total elimination of all flaws below #220 that give that perfect look that are killing me!!



The job never ends...



...and then you need sunglasses, and somebody to keep the damned thing clean. I'm getting way too old!


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## Talewinds (Dec 2, 2017)

Holy cow.....!!!


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## Kickstand3 (Dec 2, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> I hear you in regards to the easy part being the grits above #600, it's the total elimination of all flaws below #220 that give that perfect look that are killing me!!View attachment 718230
> The job never ends...
> View attachment 718233
> ...and then you need sunglasses, and somebody to keep the damned thing clean. I'm getting way too old!
> View attachment 718231



wow nice


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## Rides4Fun (Dec 3, 2017)

Great skills and effort on your part to get this bike back in shape!


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## TR6SC (Dec 3, 2017)

Rides4Fun said:


> Great skills and effort on your part to get this bike back in shape!



Thanks. Hopefully this sort of abuse won't happen again. I'm thinking of installing some Heli-coils to assist in no frozen threads in the future.


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## Bikermaniac (Dec 4, 2017)

Wow, I really admire your welding skills and craftsmanship. Yeah there's other players in the court but most of them use computerized machinery and digital equipment. Very few use their hands and manual skills to perform complicated tasks. Great job, congratulations!


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## TR6SC (Dec 4, 2017)

Bikermaniac said:


> Wow, I really admire your welding skills and craftsmanship. Yeah there's other players in the court but most of them use computerized machinery and digital equipment. Very few use their hands and manual skills to perform complicated tasks. Great job, congratulations!



Too kind. Not all my craft. Like many of us out there, I find the talent that I'm short on or that is better than mine. I do what I'm good at, and invite those with more skill or tooling to help with improving the end result. My strong points are enthusiasm and endurance.


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## TR6SC (Dec 6, 2017)

This was the last nightmare to tackle. The set-screw that holds the lock was removed over 6 months ago. I've soaked, heated, twisted, and almost even pounded on to no avail. This lock won't budge. I've rebuilt the one in the Flo-Cycle, so I have an understanding of what I'm up against to some degree. I came to believe it needed a push from behind, and I decided to drill just off center of top and bottom of the cylinder from the other side of the frame.


It was only going to be two holes, but when tap tap tapping didn't feel right, well...

Looks ugly. I'm almost ashamed but the hammering needed to happen at the edge of the lock to keep from damaging it. 


 
Here's where the drill bit hit the lock. The one at 6 o'clock was the the one I wanted. Pop goes the weasel. Out it came. 
The rest of the process is about making the key. Drilling out the stepped cam gains access to the guts of the matter.

 

 

 


 
The ten wafers must be flush with outside of the inner cylinder. Any protruding wafers will be caught in the groove, keeping the lock locked. Making of the key is in another thread posted in The Workshop-Oct 20.


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## NoControl (Dec 22, 2017)

TR6SC said:


> Thanks. Hopefully this sort of abuse won't happen again. I'm thinking of installing some Heli-coils to assist in no frozen threads in the future.




I'm admiring your old-timey repair skills. 

Growing up in my father's machine shop, I watched him do repairs like this hundreds of times. We lived on the coast of Maine, so his work was mostly for marine applications. I've seen him do some miraculous repairs to cast iron, cast aluminum, cast bronze, and zinc. After I got out of the USAF, I used the skills he taught me to repair obsolete printing presses and other manufacturing machines that were abandoned by their original manufacturers. How do you buy a replacement widget for a thingamabob, when they no longer exist? You can't! You *make* one! 

Kudos to you, TR6SC. Beautiful work you are doing, and what a prize you'll have when complete!


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## TR6SC (Jan 11, 2018)

I almost forgot. This sex-bolt goes on not only the Wingbar, but also the Hextube. Again, we're talking secret sauce, heat, and an impact driver, and it is NOT coming loose. I did the unthinkable. I drilled the SOB into oblivion.



This is what my Hextube has, so I went looking for bits that fit. All 5/16 bolts were too small in the head size. 


 
I found that the 3/8 stainless bolt had enough head meat, so I spun down a few to proper size, and also turned the shaft to a 5/16 thread. The sleeve was a piece of threaded coupling. All that was needed was to turn the outside round. The inside was already threaded. 


 
Next came the radii!!


A slot. 

 The sharp edges get cleaned up. 


The stainless becomes chromic on the buffer. 


 The bolts get cut to size.


I now have got a "correct" looking piece of unobtainium. The Wingbar has some steps left in the resurrection, but since I'm not going all the way with the goodies, i.e. rack, fenders, lights, etc, I'm starting to feel like I am nearing completion. I am going for a brushed shine, as opposed to liquid Mercury.


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## NoControl (Jan 11, 2018)

Nice repro work, TR6. I did that type of machining nearly exclusively for 20 years, working on old obsolete printing machinery. I recognize your talent. Well done, sir!


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## Bikermaniac (Jan 14, 2018)

Awesome!


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## TR6SC (Feb 2, 2019)

It's been a year since my last Wingbar  project post. Thanks to @Balloonatic for scoring and posting about his lovely bicycle. I needed some motivational inspiration to get me back to the resurrection of my bike. 


I've got the major tasks behind me like the straightening, welding, grinding, and filing. Here's the sexbolt in place.



I'm working in the #220 zone finally.



There's one little divot where the lock drilling incident occurred. I'll probably leave it since there are a number of flaws throughout the bike. If you look closely, you can see a small circle of weld where the holes used to be.



Large gashes were once on the wing with the serial numbers. Gone!



My plan is to not go el stupido with the polishing. A dullish luster finish will suit me fine. I'm tired of trying to keep up with Mother Nature's attack on the ultra shine.


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## stoney (Feb 2, 2019)

Don't loose the motivation. I like many I am sure love to watch the process of bringing back a Silver King. The highly polished examples are gorgeous but I am always drawn toward the natural finish of aluminum. As I have said before, I don't care if it is a bicycle, teapot ,coffee pot, old mag wheel, etc. I love old mature aluminum. Keep us posted.


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## Balloonatic (Feb 2, 2019)

Awesome! Mike, you're a genius at bringing back bikes like this from the edge... thanks for sharing and inspiring us all. 

It's funny how things will go in waves... all it takes is for a new wingbar to come up or for someone to post about one, and suddenly there's a buzz again about Silver Kings. It happened like that last year with Bluebirds.. suddenly they were everywhere then the Sears ride happened. 

I'm hoping this spring we can get a big group of Silver Kings together for a ride or show... there are so many guys on the CABE who have great SKs, it would be so cool to see a big grouping of them.


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## silverking surfer (Feb 2, 2019)

Excellent work


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## TR6SC (Feb 4, 2019)

I found a set of truss rods for this project. They looked good when I bought them, but a kink here and a kink there...
Radius blocks are normally made out of metal. They support the material that needs bending. The aluminum on these rods is so soft, I cheated. I made them out of wood. I drilled a hole the same size as the truss diameter, then cut the pieces in half. I used 'Ipe' pronounced eepay. It's also known as Brazilian Walnut. Really hard. I made two sets because it takes three to tango!


Here's the tango. Easy squeezy. A little at a time. 4 or 5 goes at it and it's just like new.


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## Kickstand3 (Feb 4, 2019)

TR6SC said:


> I found a set of truss rods for this project. They looked good when I bought them, but a kink here and a kink there...
> Radius blocks are normally made out of metal. They support the material that needs bending. The aluminum on these rods is so soft, I cheated. I made them out of wood. I drilled a hole the same size as the truss diameter, then cut the pieces in half. I used 'Ipe' pronounced eepay. It's also known as Brazilian Walnut. Really hard. I made two sets because it takes three to tango!View attachment 943356
> Here's the tango. Easy squeezy. A little at a time. 4 or 5 goes at it and it's just like new.
> View attachment 943355




Mike you’re a master !


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## TR6SC (Feb 4, 2019)

Kickstand3 said:


> Mike you’re a master !
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



Egyptian Caveman Survival Stuff.  The lever and the screw. What goes up, must come down. I like to think of it as analog.


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## TR6SC (Feb 8, 2019)

I'm feeling a lot better about my choice to forego the insanity of ultra-sheen. I'm only going to #400 with the sanding. It looks like a very smooth bike that shines, but without the "in your face who chromed the bike let me leave my fingerprints."




No use of a buffer, just paper and polish.



Repro rack looks pretty good. Don't tell anybody it's fake.


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## TR6SC (Feb 9, 2019)

Big day today. I got the rest of the bike caught up in sanding. The frame looked a little rough at 400, so I took it up a notch to 600. Tomorrow I'll follow suit with the forks and rack. 
Sitting in front of the piano it reminds me of an étude: a short instrumental composition designed to provide practice for perfecting skill.


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## Major Woody (Feb 13, 2019)

I am so impressed at your ingenuity.  I really enjoy repairing others' poor repairs and bringing things back to new.  Your solution with the ipe and the woodworking vise was clever.  I'll be copying that next time I need to gently straighten bent metal.  Well done sir.


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## OldSkipTooth (Feb 13, 2019)

Looks edible!


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## TR6SC (Feb 19, 2019)

I do things backwards sometimes. The inside of the BB and headtube were filthy, so a good soaking in kerosene and a bath in Simple Green was needed. 



Time to start the key making process. Each half blank must be filed separately to cut the key to the lock. 



The forks and rods are cleaned up and ready to go. 



@ratrodz brought the Wingbar's textured section to my attention. Seems there weren't  many of these made as innies. Most are outies. 


The fun is about to begin. Assembly will be with a variety of pieces old and new. I've got a big shopping list from fenders to a stand. Maybe @Balloonatic wants to part out his Wingbar. "Dibs on the headlight!"


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## ratrodz (Feb 19, 2019)

TR6SC said:


> I do things backwards sometimes. The inside of the BB and headtube were filthy, so a good soaking in kerosene and a bath in Simple Green was needed.
> View attachment 951836
> Time to start the key making process. Each half blank must be filed separately to cut the key to the lock.
> View attachment 951837
> ...





Most were stippling  (out) vs dimpling  (in).
I've only seen a few like yours... @TR6SC 
Dibs on your wingbar if you decide to part


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## Balloonatic (Feb 19, 2019)

Wow! Interesting observation there @ratrodz... I didn't pick up on the difference, but you're right, my wingbar dimples are "outies" and Mike's are "innies"... sorta like belly buttons. 

Mikey, keep dreaming about me parting out my orig. wingbar... even after I'm gone, my wife is smart enough not to part that bike out; I've warned her about you. ;o)


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## TR6SC (Feb 19, 2019)

Balloonatic said:


> Wow! Interesting observation there @ratrodz... I didn't pick up on the difference, but you're right, my wingbar dimples are "outies" and Mike's are "innies"... sorta like belly buttons.
> 
> Mikey, keep dreaming about me parting out my orig. wingbar... even after I'm gone, my wife is smart enough not to part that bike out; I've warned her about you. ;o)



Where's the "DISLIKE" button?!!!


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## ratrodz (Feb 19, 2019)

Balloonatic said:


> Wow! Interesting observation there @ratrodz... I didn't pick up on the difference, but you're right, my wingbar dimples are "outies" and Mike's are "innies"... sorta like belly buttons.
> 
> Mikey, keep dreaming about me parting out my orig. wingbar... even after I'm gone, my wife is smart enough not to part that bike out; I've warned her about you. ;o)





At first I thought someone made an oopsy to the frame and over polished it and wiped out the wings stippling... but, I've been patient and have been asking other wingbar owners to see theirs. And... bam!!! There's Mikes with the same dimpling! ! ! Superexcited to figure this silverking mystery out... maybe, first runs??? Idk...


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## TR6SC (Feb 19, 2019)

How many so far?


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## ratrodz (Feb 20, 2019)

TR6SC said:


> How many so far?




2 so far...
I'll make a separate thread, been meaning to do it for a while.


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## Balloonatic (Feb 20, 2019)

TR6SC said:


> Where's the "DISLIKE" button?!!!




*I think you mean the "JEALOUS" button. ;o)*


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## Balloonatic (Feb 20, 2019)

Mike, I didn't realize your wingbar is a Wards Silver Streak? Cool!

@ratrodz the innie & outie dimple thing is very interesting! I assumed the bar was cast; it's confounding to me they would change the wing detail, wouldn't that mean they had to change the mold? I can't imagine they would go through all that trouble for such a small detail? Maybe the bikes were produced at more than one location, and each had a different mold? Then again, maybe they were cast smooth and the dimpling was applied after? That couldn't have been very cost effective though, it seems to me the dimpling in the wings was cast in, not applied later... ?


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## ratrodz (Feb 20, 2019)

Balloonatic said:


> Mike, I didn't realize your wingbar is a Wards Silver Streak? Cool!
> 
> @ratrodz the innie & outie dimple thing is very interesting! I assumed the bar was cast; it's confounding to me they would change the wing detail, wouldn't that mean they had to change the mold? I can't imagine they would go through all that trouble for such a small detail? Maybe the bikes were produced at more than one location, and each had a different mold? Then again, maybe they were cast smooth and the dimpling was applied after? That couldn't have been very cost effective though, it seems to me the dimpling in the wings was cast in, not applied later... ?




@Balloonatic  I have a few thoughts about it... but, again I'll start a thread on the top. I don't want to clog up this beautiful build thread!


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## TR6SC (Feb 20, 2019)

ratrodz said:


> @Balloonatic  I have a few thoughts about it... but, again I'll start a thread on the top. I don't want to clog up this beautiful build thread!



Kind words, thank you.


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## Balloonatic (Feb 22, 2019)

TR6SC said:


> I'm feeling a lot better about my choice to forego the insanity of ultra-sheen




I'm LOVING that finish Mike... you're right, polishing to liquid mercury shine is neat and turns heads, but this lower sheen, edging toward brushed almost, is so appealing. Too shiny might distract from that killer, wingbar frame, this way it's evident right away that it's aluminum... you won't be hearing "is that chrome??". I think it's much closer to the finish the SKs came from factory with too... and it won't require nearly as much maintenance to keep looking like quicksilver.  

Love the ibe wood truing blocks too... take note young bucks.. this is old school craftsmanship.


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