# PLEASE DO NOT CLEAR-COAT YOUR ORIGINAL PAINT VINTAGE BIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



## fordmike65

That is all. Mike


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## Autocycleplane

Use shellac instead right?


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## fordmike65

Autocycleplane said:


> Use shellac instead right?
> 
> View attachment 766719


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## 49autocycledeluxe

are you talking about don't use 2 stage paint in a restoration or do not put clear on an old bike to "preserve" it?

I have two bikes I will be painting both will have 2 stage paint jobs way better than a factory paint job.


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## Boris

A "Please" and "Thank you" would be nice.


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## Autocycleplane

49autocycledeluxe said:


> are you talking about don't use 2 stage paint in a restoration or do not put clear on an old bike to "preserve" it?
> 
> I have two bikes I will be painting both will have 2 stage paint jobs way better than a factory paint job.




Mike is referring to this practice:


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## Freqman1

Besides stripping the paint this is the quickest way I know to ruin and original paint bike. V/r Shawn


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## fordmike65

I was referring to coating the original finish, but a 2 stage paint job, tho nice and shiny, would not be an original "restoration".


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## catfish




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## fordmike65

Boris said:


> A "Please" and "Thank you" would be nice.



Edited


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## 49autocycledeluxe

fordmike65 said:


> I was referring to coating the original finish, but a 2 stage paint job, tho nice and shiny, would not be an original "restoration".




don't care. way better than original is OK with me.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I agree the painted over bike above is lame. a friend did that to his 36 Schwinn, but there was no paint at all just rust and smashed tubing for a motor in a previous life. pieced together with incorrect old parts, and ridden EVERY DAY rain or shine.


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## fordmike65

49autocycledeluxe said:


> don't care. way better than original is OK with me.



It all depends on what you like.I'm sure they're breathtaking when all done 

I for one do not like overly shiny paint. If a bike must be repainted, I prefer something that mimics the bike's original finish.


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## Autocycleplane

fordmike65 said:


> It all depends on what you like.I'm sure they're breathtaking when all done
> 
> I for one do not like overly shiny paint. If a bike must be repainted, I prefer something that mimics the bike's original finish.




Mike’s worst hobby nightmare is having to store something in my garage unattended, a den of “over-cleaning” as @Boris would say.


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## ivrjhnsn

He will not sell a bike unless he does his version of preservation. And he has some killer originals


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## abe lugo

but  it looks so cool and "Wet" on rat rods!


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## fordmike65

abe lugo said:


> but  it looks so cool and "Wet" on rat rods!
> View attachment 766819


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## fordmike65

ivrjhnsn said:


> He will not sell a bike unless he does his version of preservation. And he has some killer originals


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## PCHiggin

A satin or flat clearcoat will look great, I’ve seen it on a few cars and a couple of old bikes. Nothing wrong with it. Again, it’s personal preference,we’re only talking about a bicycle here,why some people want to make them an idol, is beyond me


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## WES PINCHOT

PCHiggin said:


> A satin or flat clearcoat will look great, I’ve seen it on a few cars and a couple of old bikes. Nothing wrong with it. Again, it’s personal preference,we’re only talking about a bicycle here,why some people want to make them an idol, is beyond me




BEAUTY IS IN THE EYES OF THE BEHOLDER!


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## catfish

Never would. Never will.


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## vincev

Sometimes a light coat of clear really makes the faded color "pop".I dont really like to do it but I dont think it will hurt the value a whole lot.I surly would not do it on any bike worth any real money though


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## Jay81

Thinking of clear coating the Firestone Airflyte.


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## GTs58

Clear coats are a good thing on just about every thing.   Yah, that'll buff out.


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## Schwinn499

Cant see how it helps the value in any way, let alone any aging that a good wax job, maintenance, and proper storage cant suspend just as well. Voids the designation of an "original paint" bike. Given the buy and sell nauture of the hobby it only narrows your eventual target audience when going to trade it in for green or goods. Makes me cringe in my useless opinion.


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## momo608

I repaint almost everything and I wouldn't clear an original paint bike, don't see the point in it or the improvement. I do however wish touch up paints existed that didn't make things look worse on the old Chicago Schwinn lightweights with the trans colors. 

btw, that black car was obviously a poor repaint that went bad, typical collision shop work working on the cheap and fast. Factory base coat clear coat paint jobs have come a long way since 80's and early 90's and blows away anything from the lacquer days but nothing lasts forever, especially in the baking hot sun. Black paint surface temperature can surpass 160 degrees in the summer, surprised anyone would want a black car in the southern climates.


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## harpon

Paint is better than rust is my own thought.  I think every bike is potentially different and the variably multiplied by the intent and use of the owner.   I almost always would prefer to "Touch up" any possible improvement I could make to some classic bike that Ilike the original look of.  It's a challenge to find paint or mix paints and do fine detailing of any nicks or rust. I don't mind repainting missing parts of decals either- not very good at such detail myself, but I'll get better- it requires patience not usually bred into old racers!  I don't do show pieces and want to shell out big money for decals- just make the bike reasonably resemble it's original look.

  Clear coating to me then is just really a protective layer.  If you didn't change the look with touching and rust removal, clear coat is just another layer of protection, not only for the original look of the bike, but to prevent further corrosion- which was also a function of the original paint

Just saw this saddle on ebay, and wouldn't hesitate to replace some old worn out leather thing with it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Retro-50S-...667964&hash=item2137997089:g:4sAAAOSwkRhZXgjJ


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## fordmike65

harpon said:


> Paint is better than rust is my own thought.  I think every bike is potentially different and the variably multiplied by the intent and use of the owner.   I almost always would prefer to "Touch up" any possible improvement I could make to some classic bike that Ilike the original look of.  It's a challenge to find paint or mix paints and do fine detailing of any nicks or rust. I don't mind repainting missing parts of decals either- not very good at such detail myself, but I'll get better- it requires patience not usually bred into old racers!  I don't do show pieces and want to shell out big money for decals- just make the bike reasonably resemble it's original look.
> 
> Clear coating to me then is just really a protective layer.  If you didn't change the look with touching and rust removal, clear coat is just another layer of protection, not only for the original look of the bike, but to prevent further corrosion- which was also a function of the original paint
> 
> Just saw this saddle on ebay, and wouldn't hesitate to replace some old worn out leather thing with it:
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=142666723465



Those are very low-quality ass-hatchets. Just warning you...

And clear-coating is not preserving anything. It will lower the value & is basically the same as repainting a bike. But like anything, it's yours to do with as you see fit


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi

Clear coat is not going to prevent further corrosion lol... you paint or clear over rust it’s still gonna be slowly still doing what rust does lol... then when it chips and bubbles and falls off, it will look like crap even more so... just wax the damn things.. [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Obi-Wan Schwinnobi

There was a green motorbike a few years back that everyone was drooling over tell we found out it had been clear coated... price dropped a lot... but hey, like mike said, if you want to lower the value of your bike then by all means, spray away lol... it’s your bike after all, and probably forever since nobody is going to give you the money you want for it now [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hoofhearted

*
Have a machine with flaked, chalky, original paint.
Rust is not an issue on this one.

Orange paint will appear on your hand if you lightly-
rub over the surface.

What to do ? ... what to do ?

Looking to save the paint .. not trying for a resurrection. 

After washing with warm water and baby shampoo ...
rinsed well. Repeat.

Wiped down lightly ... soft rag ... denatured alcohol.

Using very-light spray ... placed multiple coats of
Krylon Matte Clear Spray.   

VERY LIGHT SPRAY ... Waited one-hour between coats.

Absolutely no regrets.

..... patric



MLC Spring 2014 ... right after a sprinkle ......




 




 




 




 




 




 *


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## hoofhearted

*
Forgot about the potato ...

After the baby shampoo ... but before the 
denatured alcohol wipe ...

Rub a fresh, uncooked, raw, potato-half all
over the frame, fork and other ferrous parts.

You guessed it ... the potato contains oxalic
acid.  This acid converts the rust to ferric -
oxalate ... which gets rinsed away in the de-
natured alcohol wipe.

..... p.*


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## fordmike65

hoofhearted said:


> *Forgot about the potato ...
> 
> After the baby shampoo ... but before the
> denatured alcohol wipe ...
> 
> Rub a fresh, uncooked, raw, potato-half all
> over the frame, fork and other ferrous parts.
> 
> You guessed it ... the potato contains oxalic
> acid.  This acid converts the rust to ferric -
> oxalate ... which gets rinsed away in the de-
> natured alcohol wipe.
> 
> ..... p.*


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## hoofhearted

fordmike65 said:


>




*Little Buddy .... sometimes things won't go away
until we learn what we need to learn from them.

Your Brother of The Wheel ...
... patric*


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## GTs58

momo608 said:


> btw, that black car was obviously a poor repaint that went bad, typical collision shop work working on the cheap and fast. Factory base coat clear coat paint jobs have come a long way since 80's and early 90's and blows away anything from the lacquer days but nothing lasts forever, especially in the baking hot sun. Black paint surface temperature can surpass 160 degrees in the summer, surprised anyone would want a black car in the southern climates.





I'd say that was factory paint. I'm in Central Arizona and our streets are filled with those factory paint Lepers and the brand of car makes no difference, they all end up looking like that. A repaint with clear will last 3 years or less in this climate if it's exposed to the elements 100% of the time. Silver and Black cars take the worst beating.


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## rusty_apache

Home made Waxoyl!
I learned it from the Wheelmen. Beeswax turpentine and light machine oil. I leave it on the stovetop not on, but next to the pilot light and shake it occasionally to allow the beeswax to fully dissolve. 

When I washed my Century Marathon for the first time it still had some thick dust in places like it hadn’t been washed in decades. The water still beaded up like it was freshly waxed.
I’m not certain that was waxoyl on it but it definitely does now!


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## bricycle

The only thing I've used clear coat on was just the decal. Once it's gone... it's gone.


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## Shanewildasin

I agree, original paint should be kept original. However, I have a Western Auto ladies bike that was used as yard art. It has about 5 coats of house paint on it, but it actually looks fantastic. I sprayed matte clear as stated above, after thorough cleaning, and it really looks great. I’m not concerned about resale value, just smile value.


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## Grateful Dave

I just bought a can of flat but haven't felt confident in spraying a final anything yet.  I just got it and its a little more rough than i was expecting.   I m not trying to conquer rust by any means, but I don't want to give it free reign.  I live on a boat and the salt works fast  My plan was to keep this one crusty and rusty and ride the hell out of it. I know I dont want to get anything on the head badge, that can age all it likes, but I'm afraid to lose the patina completely.  Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with ocean climates?


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## bobcycles

SLIMY bikes rule!


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## Grateful Dave

rusty_apache said:


> Home made Waxoyl!
> I learned it from the Wheelmen. Beeswax turpentine and light machine oil. I leave it on the stovetop not on, but next to the pilot light and shake it occasionally to allow the beeswax to fully dissolve.
> 
> When I washed my Century Marathon for the first time it still had some thick dust in places like it hadn’t been washed in decades. The water still beaded up like it was freshly waxed.
> I’m not certain that was waxoyl on it but it definitely does now!



I just made some leather conditioner the same way.  I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on prooride for an old ssddle.  Tallow and beeswax and I added a little canuba which needed a bit of turpentine to dissolve.


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## OldSkipTooth

The beauty of wax, or better yet, boiled linseed oil is that it’s reversible! If you decide you don’t like it you can go back in time, nearly impossible to do that with something out of a can. It’s true that wax or boiled linseed is not a permanent coating, you have to redo either to maintain a semi wet look, but it’s worth it, and it gets you back in touch with your bike by cleaning it prior to the coating. Just my 2 cents.


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## OldSkipTooth

Autocycleplane said:


> Use shellac instead right?
> 
> View attachment 766719




Interesting enough, shellac is an amazing natural product that is good for many things besides a super shiny top coat on antiques. It's great for sealing old paints, wall paper, plaster, mold, etc. Once sealed with shellac, you can then apply the finish you want and what you sealed underneath can't bleed through, hence Zinsser makes a shellac based white primer. Not sure if this technique can be used on bikes or metal in any way. If you ever do use shellac, its best made from scratch with raw lac and denatured alcohol.


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## harpon

Obi-Wan Schwinnobi said:


> Clear coat is not going to prevent further corrosion lol... you paint or clear over rust it’s still gonna be slowly still doing what rust does lol... then when it chips and bubbles and falls off, it will look like crap even more so... just wax the damn things.. [emoji848]
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Poppycock, generally.  Although I'm not really talking about clear coating rust- rust - generally- needs to be sanded down (no sometimes it is in the metal and cant be totally eliminated)- but any matched touch up color over it- and best brushed on  to insure that it DOES penetrate the three dimensions in what  remains- will seal that portion to varying degrees.  Rust diminished and sealed will not progress at nearly the same rate then- the portions of rust left un-sanded only spur more rust- it's like a cancer- the oxidized elements decay the rest sooner- it has to be surgically removed.   It's internet gauche to lol everything away without much though or substance behind it!


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## harpon

That old orangy bike would look better after a good old can of Ford '50-'60's valve cover enamel - and last longer too.


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## SKPC

Howards' Feed-N-Wax from the Home Despot is a great product for use on old paint or metals. _ No solvents_.  I use it as a final wipe-on wax base for all my furniture refinish projects, and also find it useful for old bike finishes.  And of course there is always linseed (flax) oil.  I have fond memories of riding in the J.Deere Combine bin as a kid when my uncle was threshing Flax on our Minnesota farm.  We would sit in the bin and let the seeds cover us up as he drove down the windrow....


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## fordmike65

Bump....for the newbies


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## frampton

Works great on old paint, bare metal and penetrating and freeing stuck parts.


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## bikecrazy

I favor the good old 10W40 treatment. A little shiney at first, but dulls down to what I think is a nice finish


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## OhioJones

Many years ago I came to the conclusion that if I can't put it on my genitals, then it doesn't belong on my guitars. Same goes for my bikes. Now, you may find this to sound a bit absurd. Maybe even a little amusing. But try walking around with burns and the smell of WD40 on your applebag.
I digress.


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## mr.cycleplane

did you hear what that guy said? 




its hilarious-i'm still laughing!


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## rusty.kirkpatrick

OhioJones said:


> Many years ago I came to the conclusion that if I can't put it on my genitals, then it doesn't belong on my guitars. Same goes for my bikes. Now, you may find this to sound a bit absurd. Maybe even a little amusing. But try walking around with burns and the smell of WD40 on your applebag.
> I digress.



So you put grease down there? Probably works good on a chapped azz though.


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## Kato

I agree 90% of the time to not clear them............but have done it to 2 bikes.
The first one is a 52 Hornet that my son and I bought as a winter project. It was totally covered in nasty crusty rust.......it took a long time using naval jelly and then various grades of steel wool and WD40. We stopped at a point where it looked good and did satin clear coat.......not matte which is almost flat.
The other bike I actually just did with satin a month or so back. My son wanted something kool for his college bike. 
We picked up a 51 Hornet here on the CABE and did satin on it since the bike would be sitting outside in a rack in the weather.
He found out bikes were getting swiped and didn't want to take the chance..........so we kept it ( actually 4 sale on CABE ) here.
Honestly unless I told you it was satin cleared I doubt most would even notice. Pic without fenders no clear....next is as I got it / taken apart. 
Did the 0000 steel wool / WD40 which made the non- original to bike fenders match much better....last sidewalk pic is satin cleared.


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## fordmike65

Bump


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## FICHT 150

If your hands are rusty after you touch it, it isn’t original paint. No matter what you say.
Sorry.

As to the value thing, I’m way better at buying bikes then selling them. My kid is probably going to have a big mess of bikes to get rid of. But, there are a few he really likes, too, so, who knows?

Ted


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## bobcycles

Y'all er gunna proballee kill me....

a buddy of mine picked up a complete but rusty, beyond bring back, red phantom...
loaded, tailight, cycle lock, drum brake... just toasty..
I've been going through all the bearings and surfaces to make it ride like a new bike...
was THINKING? about clear coating this one..... just to 'preserve the crust'
Am I in the clear for a go ahead on this?
again...bike could only be restored or parted to amount to anything but a toasty
but straight and complete rusty rider...
I just think the clear would add a little oooomph.... to the whole pkg.


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## GTs58

bobcycles said:


> Y'all er gunna proballee kill me....
> 
> a buddy of mine picked up a complete but rusty, beyond bring back, red phantom...
> loaded, tailight, cycle lock, drum brake... just toasty..
> I've been going through all the bearings and surfaces to make it ride like a new bike...
> was THINKING? about clear coating this one..... just to 'preserve the crust'
> Am I in the clear for a go ahead on this?
> again...bike could only be restored or parted to amount to anything but a toasty
> but straight and complete rusty rider...
> I just think the clear would add a little oooomph.... to the whole pkg.




I definitely say no to clear coat and a big yes to the real boiled linseed oil. Brush on..............wipe off. No dry flaky white dandruff a year or two later.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I coated my rusty red DX with grease and dirt from taking it apart and putting it back together with different parts until I reached perfection. it is darker now than it was when I got it. so much so that the maroon fenders and chain guard are a pretty good match. 

I don't like anything on crusty bikes.


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## Kickstand3

Been checking out this Thread , I’m not in favor of clear coat .It most certainly was not a option back in the day. I understand you peeps not wanting to get rust all over every time you get close your rides . I’m not versed on this matter, but I wonder what surf ‍board wax will do . Any thoughts


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## BFGforme

Kickstand3 said:


> Been checking out this Thread , I’m not in favor of clear coat .It most certainly was not a option back in the day. I understand you peeps not wanting to get rust all over every time you get close your rides . I’m not versed on this matter, but I wonder what surf ‍board wax will do . Any thoughts



Melt and make a big mess I'm thinking...


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## Kickstand3

BFGforme said:


> Melt and make a big mess I'm thinking...



It’s water based tho, might try it on some rust I have laying around


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## Kato

Just bought a CWC built Buckeye - it's in the Project Ride section
I've done the 0000 steel wool and WD40 clean up - wiped it down..........did some more WD40 but after it sits it looks dry.
I went to the boiled linseed next - did that 2x.........stills dries back flat and nasty.

When it's wet using either the WD40 or linseed ( smells nasty ) it looks great..............but then goes flat and blaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh.

Only done 2 other bikes with Satin clear and they turned out great........and I'm about ready to pull the trigger on this one.
It's not a show bike - will never be but the difference between a little shine, which is what the satin does and without is a huge difference.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

Clear coat is for amateurs. Look at this rusty mess I just did. 2000 grit wetsanding, 0000 steel wool, and rubbing compound. If I had cleared it the bike would be a mess with clear. Now it is a good looking old bike.


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## PLERR

49autocycledeluxe said:


> Clear coat is for amateurs. Look at this rusty mess I just did. 2000 grit wetsanding, 0000 steel wool, and rubbing compound. If I had cleared it the bike would be a mess with clear. Now it is a good looking old bike.



Now THAT'S what I'm aspiring to! Nice job! That type of preservation really works for me. Makes me see some of my bikes in a different light.

Any idea of how much time you have in just the hand work on this one? Have you posted a tutorial anywhere?

The more bikes done this way the less that will be clear coated! 😆


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## 49autocycledeluxe

PLERR said:


> Now THAT'S what I'm aspiring to! Nice job! That type of preservation really works for me. Makes me see some of my bikes in a different light.
> 
> Any idea of how much time you have in just the hand work on this one? Have you posted a tutorial anywhere?
> 
> The more bikes done this way the less that will be clear coated! 😆




I have many hours into that paint. I would do 1-2 hours at a time... I figure 8-10 hours? one day I spent 3 hours on the forks alone, they were pretty bad plus I was trying to save the pinstripes.  there was a lot of detail work around the decals as well.









						my 1950 Schwinn Traveler (?) project | Lightweight Schwinn Bicycles
					

about 5 years ago I saw a sad looking Schwinn racer in a pile of "crummy bikes" at a bike swap for 20 bucks. put some middleweight wheels on it because that is what I had and made a light-middleweight. this got me interested in Schwinn lightweights. been casually looking for one for about 2...




					thecabe.com


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## tacochris

Had a buddy of mine back in the height of the patina craze who would take everything he owned, antique coolers, lawn ornaments, old bicycles etc and BURY....and I mean BURY them in clear to the point where they had runs.....and then cover them in pinstriping.  
Stuff sold like hotcakes whenever he would sell stuff but I didnt have the heart to mention that the original finish was likely ruined forever.  I inherited a nice hoard of bicycle parts when he moved, but sadly some of the better, early Schwinn stuff is encased in clear. Havent gone the route of trying to remove it yet but I will soon.


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## vincev

I have been debating about removing a clear coat off my Red Phantom.I think it will come off easily but not sure if I should just leave well enough alone. Looks like chainguard for sure was clear coated.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi

Just use polishing compound, every time you clean it. The clear coat will, eventually, wear down to the original finish.


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## barneyguey

I wouldn't buy one that's been clear coated if anyone cares? 🙈🙉🙊


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## Archie Sturmer

Perhaps a qualifier would be in order — such as how much left original paint; 50%?
It has been said that clear is just another color and basically a repaint, and I agree, but I do not recall ever choosing clear as a repaint color (especially after primer coats).

I do have some clear paint around and recall only using it on more modern and new metallic flake paint finishes.


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## PLERR

Anyone have experience with this (or other products like it)? It's specifically for chrome and aluminum, I was going to try it on one of my Spaceliners.


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## Kickstand3

PLERR said:


> Anyone have experience with this (or other products like it)? It's specifically for chrome and aluminum, I was going to try it on one of my Spaceliners.
> 
> View attachment 1449850



You can take off old clear with a good compound , just be careful  for sure. Not sure about that space liner though, but for sure on paint


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## saladshooter

Bump

To the folks that feel the need to "save" the paint with a clear coat or Boiled linseed oil. Please add that "upgrade" to your for sale ads if you think it's such a good idea.

A couple years ago there was a killer bike I wanted, talked to the seller and it came to light that he had used BLO. Deal breaker for me. 
Can BLO be removed? Can house paint be removed? Who wants to spend their spare time removing either? And when you've called it "good enough" cause your fingers hurt and it sucks, what's the bike look like now?


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## Chadillac

Big 10-4 nope to clear coat.  Easy to mess up. Hard to reverse.  But when it comes to my keepers I say damn the torpedoes!  Boiled Linseed Oil always.  I would never use it or anything else on something I planned to sell or thought I could make good money on because of course that would drive the purists from the buyer pool. And if selling a treated bike do the right thing and always disclose what you’ve done to it. But all my babies get the BLO treatment. It’s easy, protective, and looks great in my opinion.  I’ve used it on old paint, rust, and raw metal.  Love the results.


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## Chadillac

Chadillac said:


> Big 10-4 nope to clear coat.  Easy to mess up. Hard to reverse.  But when it comes to my keepers I say damn the torpedoes!  Boiled Linseed Oil always.  I would never use it or anything else on something I planned to sell or thought I could make good money on because of course that would drive the purists from the buyer pool. And if selling a treated bike do the right thing and always disclose what you’ve done to it. But all my babies get the BLO treatment. It’s easy, protective, and looks great in my opinion.  I’ve used it on old paint, rust, and raw metal.  Love the results.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

not on my watch! 🤨


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## Chadillac

49autocycledeluxe said:


> not on my watch! 🤨
> 
> View attachment 1688008



You’d probably like my Shelby how I found it!


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## kreika

Well that Blo’s 🤣


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