# Re-cover A Saddle  Quick & Cheap.



## the tinker

" Look....I need a saddle done in leather for the kid's cowboy bike and I need it before noon. Just get it done




"Pauli wants his kid's bike seat re-done today before lunch. Whatta we gonna do Henry ?


"I know Jimmy, that guy the tinker.....he's kind of a schlock but I bet he could crank one out quick







Crummy seats....we all got'em .....Take the pan apart and get all the rust off. & Re-paint if it needs it.
Grind off the spring rivet tops  if the edges are sharp.




Always keep a knife with you...... not only for protection but when you see an old leather couch out on the curb stop and cut out any salvage leather off it. I keep a knife in both our cars.  The light brown piece I got on the way to church.....time to do it is when you see it.





Those old heavy flannel shirts you got you're gonna use for rags....save em. Cut out a hunk large enough to wrap the pan with.

Cut out two other hunks each a little smaller and one little patch to cover the rivets.Cut them a little neater then the Tinker did......








First spray some upholstery glue[From Home Depot]  on the pan and attach the small hunk of cloth over the riveted section.......
Then spray the entire top pan and underside edges with glue and tightly wrap the large  hunk of cloth around the pan. Pull the edges tightly, folding them over the edges onto the bottom  edge of the pan.
Repeat for each hunk of fabric.








Be a little neater then me..... I had to do this fast as I was afraid I was gonna get wacked if I didn't get it done quick.......
Next cut your leather.....and repeat ....I let the leather set on my hot truck dashboard in the sun while I was doing the other stuff to soften it up cause it has to be pulled real tight....Lastly install the bottom pan&bottom bracket.



Done...[.One hour and  45 minutes]. Take your time......buy the foam  instead of the old shirts  but hey, this is the Tinker here....... what can I say??  I got the photo sequence a little screwed up here but you get the idea.













View attachment 328680


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## CrazyDave

Thanks for sharing this!  Nice seats are for poor folks too


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## the tinker

Did up a bunch of old saddles.  Little bit different then I posted before. First off I made a re-usable pattern for the material.
Second I was more careful to cut everything neatly...... To glue everything up I used  Weldwood contact cement for the padding only. I used Home depot's fabric spray cement for the leather , not contact cement. The fabric spray allows positioning ; movement and stretching unlike contact cement.
After the top leather was glued up and ready to go I placed it glue side up on top of my hot bar-b-q lid for a few minutes to heat up the leather.The hot leather is not as stiff.
I have talked to a fellow that does saddles that soaks the leather and then stretches it over the seat pan . He punches holes in the leather and laces it up like a boot under the pan. Allows it to dry  and even puts a seat stamp on it and says you use little to no glue. His saddles turn out perfect.  I may try that......someday.
For today's work I started at 0900 and covered 3 seats with leather by 1100.  Nice enough for the old clunkers I have!

 

 

 

All these seats shown will be covered for about $3.50 each. The cost of the glue.  Padding was old but still nice bath towels .[ask the wife for them first] and my old heavy work shirts. Leather is from discarded curbside chairs.
I think for the average old bike this is a good deal.

I am going to add this edit: I don't know how others do it [ feel free to chime in here] but when applying the top leather I mold the leather on the top side first . Then flip over and start at the front horn part of the seat . Stretching and pulling the leather over the bottom edge of the pan. A few slits will have to be carefully made to do this as you work your way around the pan.


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## STRADALITE

Its all trial and error.
Keep it up and one day you'll turn out a couple seats like these. And I used glue on the padding and leather.


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## Evans200

Good stuff Tink. You dodged a bullet never knowing how close you were to getting whacked. Once Pauli turns his back on you, it's lights out! Really good, cheap way to re-do seats, thanks.


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## gymmanager

Thanks for the tutorial Tinker, this is going to come in handy very soon!


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## the tinker

Thanks everyone for the nice comments on the the saddles. So far I have done 17. The first 4 were not so good and had to be re-done.  I  never attempted this before and had no one to show me their little tricks . It was a learning experience.
I did 2 in imitation leather from Jo- Ann Fabrics and the real leather is much easier to work with and gave better results then the intimation stuff.
In the span of 3 weeks I salvaged real leather from 2 couches and 2 chairs. Also a fair amount of the fake stuff from other furniture cause it looked too good to go to the landfill. My wife actually said, "Maybe someone will want that furniture and here you are ruining it by cutting material off them".......sorry..

Laying the leather ,after it has been glued up on top [glue side up] of the hot bar- B - Q cover for about 3 minutes prior to applying seems to make the leather a little easier to work with
.
I will not mention the fellow's name who told me the "correct" way to do saddles as he is a great guy, he is just a lot fussier then the tinker.
I want to add that he soaks his leather for about an hour in water prior to use. Then molds it over the pan,while taking string and tightly lacing it through punched holes that are placed every inch or so just like a laced up boot. Then it is allowed to set a day or two so it will dry, fully molded to the seat pan. Then the center of the saddle will be marked to receive the manufacturer's  stamp .
That's about all I can remember as this was at a show and you know how that goes......


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## CrazyDave

Much appreciated man, this makes me want to try my own hand at this instead of paying more for a seat than I do for most my bikes! LOL!  Thank you Mr. Tinker!


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## the tinker

When I spotted this nice looking chair out in the trash this morning I drove right past it saying to myself'"That's gotta be vinyl".   Got a few houses down and turned back thinking. "But maybe not."
Sure enough it's leather. Perfect for bike saddles. Will get at least 5 seat tops outta this . Almost a shame to cut this up as it looks like a nice chair.
This is exactly what you want for to re-cover your saddles with. It's the right thickness and is easy to work with and most importantly......it's free.


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## WES PINCHOT

LOOKS LIKE A COLLECTIBLE AS IS!


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## the tinker

Last night I sat in this chair.It is sitting out in the garage and I also looked it over really good. Being a retired carpenter I can appreciate the amount of workmanship that's in the wood base /stand.  It is in excellent shape. I may keep it to replace the the almost 40 year old chair I have in the downstairs bike-room.  It is very comfortable and reclines back. 
The garbage truck was right behind me as I picked it off the street.
I hate the waste in this country.


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## tripple3

I say "Keep it"
It doesn't look like trash.
Take a nap in it today and tell us about it later.....


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## the tinker

Made the decision to keep it. Too good to cut up.  More then likely will come across another . Most of these leather chairs the seats are shot. The sides and backs are what you look at for the saddle leather.


 .
You are right Trips , I will keep this one don't have the heart to ruin it.


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## WES PINCHOT

WAY TO GO TINKER!


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## STRADALITE

Maybe you could remove the wood base. Then find a way to attach the rest of the seat to your seat post. Talk about a plush ride.


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## mike j

Great tips, Tink, thanks for sharing. Picked up my first leather couch recently.


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## the tinker

I want to add this: Don't be in a rush when doing your saddle. Don't be a schlock like me and be in a hurry ... cut your padding neatly. I have used foam before  but I did not like the "feel" of the finished saddle. The older saddles were not as soft .If I wasn't so cheap I would go out and buy some heavy felt for the padding, but that's just me. 
Don't get discouraged if your first try turns out looking like a first grade craft product as mine did.
I had hoped that some of the other fellows doing seats would chime in here as far as how they do it, as I know it would be welcome to learn their way as to improve this thread, as I am indeed a "Schlock".


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## fat tire trader

While getting ready to do my second saddle recover, looking for tips, I found this thread. The first saddle I did last summer for my Pea Picker. I would have preferred to use an original looking cover, but I had to do it in a rush with what I could quickly get my hands on.

This is the bike with the original cover.








I removed the cover and cleaned the pan.









I sprayed adhesive on the pan and covered it with foam.





Then, I sprayed the foam with adhesive and covered the foam with leather that I bought at a local leather shop.













The next saddle that I am going to do is for my 1943 Dayton military bike.


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## fat tire trader

I went to my local shop, Barta Hide in Petaluma and got two pieces for $5. I'm going to use the lighter colored piece and save the darker one for a  future project.


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## fat tire trader

Rough cut


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## fat tire trader

I got a piece if foam from my auto upholstery buddy.


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## vincev

Good thread


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## the tinker

Be liberal when cutting your initial piece of leather to shape, leaving ample material to fold around the edges of the top pan. It's easy to trim excess off as you go, rather than be cut short.  Leather works better if hot. Leave it set on your car hood in the hot sun for a bit, it seems to soften and expand it a little.  Start from the center of the pan and work leather out to the edges , pushing the leather into the adhesive, making sure it is positioned correctly as you go. The front horn of the seat is the hardest. After I am sure it's positioned correctly    [ where you won't be caught short on material  somewhere ] at the point where the leather is at in photo :



 I start  on horn first, wrapping it tightly, pulling it down to the sides of the horn, then around and over tightly fold it into the end of it.  When I have that looking good, then I work my way back.


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## Santee

I will never look at old leather chairs laying on the side of the road the same.


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## vincev

Santee said:


> I will never look at old leather chairs laying on the side of the road the same.



just make sure the furniture is not bug infested.


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## the tinker

Hey Vince, I got an extra bonus in one chair. No bugs, but a 1962 silver quarter!


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## anders1

Is there anyone who can restore something like this? A bit more involved but I know some of you are very talented. I would love to have this one restored.


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## Bajaway

Ride it as is it’s beautiful find something a lot worse if you wanna re cover something


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## anders1

Bajaway said:


> Ride it as is it’s beautiful find something a lot worse if you wanna re cover something



This one is coming apart at the seams. If I ride it I think I might destroy it...


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## anders1




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## anders1




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## Bajaway

Now I see your probably right


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## Balloonoob

This thread is great


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## Drzdave58

I recovered 2 saddles so Far...picked up another old saddle yesterday so this will be my third...I went to a used clothing store and picked up a XXXL jacket for $20...the leather was beautiful on it..I glue with spray adhesive the foam to the seat pan then I cover with felt...then glue the leather on top...not perfect but work fine for me...


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## Drzdave58

Just finished another saddle...not sure of the make...but I think it’s a ladies saddle


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## Woodtickgreg

This is a great thread! It has given me lots of ideas. Like others have said, I'll never look at a leather couch or chair at the curb the same way again. I gotta try this.


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## spoker

i keep a box cutter with me,but beaware leather furniture is not all leather, the seating area and arms ate the rest is vinyl, leather and viynl smell different,also at the thrift stores alot of laddies clothes are made from leather,fackets ate usually made from small pieces sewn together,can be hard 2 find a piece big enough to do a seat,if all else fails do to tandy and check out there rements,


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## the tinker

Good advice Spoker.  Whenever I spot a leather chair or couch on the curb, I immediately hit the brakes and jump out of my truck. I bury my face into the center of the seat cushion and take a deep breath, to see if it smells like leather.... oh boy.


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## Woodtickgreg

the tinker said:


> Good advice Spoker.  Whenever I spot a leather chair or couch on the curb, I immediately hit the brakes and jump out of my truck. I bury my face into the center of the seat cushion and take a deep breath, to see if it smells like leather.... oh boy.



That's kinda like sniffing bicycle seats but on a larger scale, lol. I think I would choose another method for verification.


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## the tinker

The last time I was at Memory Lane I bought about a dozen 1940's - early 50's saddles that were solid, but missing their leather. Maybe this fall I'll re-cover them and post the results. I see that "contact" cement is mentioned by some folks to secure the top leather. Myself, I wouldn't use it on top leather. Contact cement is not very forgiving.  It instantly "grabs" the leather and doesn't allow you to re-position it, or stretch it, molding it over the pan...causing wrinkles that can't be smoothed out. Fabric adhesive allows  you to pull, and stretch the leather, without causing permanent wrinkles. I see lots of foam being used. The old saddles were down right hard; not at all cushy. As I type this, I notice the "mouse pad" that my wife got for our computer is made out of a thin rubber product. Perfect to cover a saddle with.   And... if your saddle doesn't turn out to your high expectations, it's no big deal to re-do it. You are in this hobby to have fun.


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## Balloonoob

the tinker said:


> The last time I was at Memory Lane I bought about a dozen 1940's - early 50's saddles that were solid, but missing their leather. Maybe this fall I'll re-cover them and post the results. I see that "contact" cement is mentioned by some folks to secure the top leather. Myself, I wouldn't use it on top leather. Contact cement is not very forgiving.  It instantly "grabs" the leather and doesn't allow you to re-position it, or stretch it, molding it over the pan...causing wrinkles that can't be smoothed out. Fabric adhesive allows  you to pull, and stretch the leather, without causing permanent wrinkles. I see lots of foam being used. The old saddles were down right hard; not at all cushy. As I type this, I notice the "mouse pad" that my wife got for our computer is made out of a thin rubber product. Perfect to cover a saddle with.   And... if your saddle doesn't turn out to your high expectations, it's no big deal to re-do it. You are in this hobby to have fun.



Mousepad is a great idea.


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## volksboy57

This seat was pretty bad, but the rubber padding was in great shape! Sanded down the springs and pans, and applied a couple coats of rustoleum lacquer. Used spray glue, and some red leather for the top.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi

the tinker said:


> " Look....I need a saddle done in leather for the kid's cowboy bike and I need it before noon. Just get it done
> View attachment 328651
> "Pauli wants his kid's bike seat re-done today before lunch. Whatta we gonna do Henry ?
> 
> 
> "I know Jimmy, that guy the tinker.....he's kind of a schlock but I bet he could crank one out quick
> 
> View attachment 328656
> View attachment 328653
> Crummy seats....we all got'em .....Take the pan apart and get all the rust off. & Re-paint if it needs it.
> Grind off the spring rivet tops  if the edges are sharp.
> View attachment 328654
> 
> Always keep a knife with you...... not only for protection but when you see an old leather couch out on the curb stop and cut out any salvage leather off it. I keep a knife in both our cars.  The light brown piece I got on the way to church.....time to do it is when you see it.
> View attachment 328655
> 
> 
> Those old heavy flannel shirts you got you're gonna use for rags....save em. Cut out a hunk large enough to wrap the pan with.
> 
> Cut out two other hunks each a little smaller and one little patch to cover the rivets.Cut them a little neater then the Tinker did......
> View attachment 328679
> View attachment 328675
> 
> 
> First spray some upholstery glue[From Home Depot]  on the pan and attach the small hunk of cloth over the riveted section.......
> Then spray the entire top pan and underside edges with glue and tightly wrap the large  hunk of cloth around the pan. Pull the edges tightly, folding them over the edges onto the bottom  edge of the pan.
> Repeat for each hunk of fabric.
> 
> View attachment 328676
> View attachment 328677
> 
> Be a little neater then me..... I had to do this fast as I was afraid I was gonna get wacked if I didn't get it done quick.......
> Next cut your leather.....and repeat ....I let the leather set on my hot truck dashboard in the sun while I was doing the other stuff to soften it up cause it has to be pulled real tight....Lastly install the bottom pan&bottom bracket.
> View attachment 328681
> Done...[.One hour and  45 minutes]. Take your time......buy the foam  instead of the old shirts  but hey, this is the Tinker here....... what can I say??  I got the photo sequence a little screwed up here but you get the idea.
> 
> View attachment 328664
> 
> View attachment 328667
> 
> View attachment 328678
> 
> View attachment 328680


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## Brutuskend

Here is a trick I learned after doing this for several years.

I put down one layer of foam, about 1/2 thick then sculpt it using a electric carving knife. Then I use another layer of foam about 1/4 inch over that. Then headliner foam with stretchy cloth over that, then the leather. They turn out quite nice for not being done "correctly" IMO.


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## Miq

My Troxel long spring saddle came out great.  Even put some leather on the back of the bottom since it didn’t have a pinch pan to cover the glued leather edges. 



I used closed cell foam from a knee board and leather from a chair. It’s all held together with a small bottle of Weldwood contact cement. 












Thanks @the tinker !


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## Balloonoob

Figured it was my turn to give this a whirl. @Miq and @Blackbomber both had recent success at this so i went for it. Having a double pan seat makes this a whole lot easier. So I took everything apart (should have sprayed penatrating oil on bolts the day before), soaked in a gas bath (should have let it soak for a whole day) then cleaned off with a wire brush and wd-40. Next everything got cleaned by sponge and soap and water. Then i sprayed everything but the top of the saddle with black paint and primer in 1. The next day i went with a mouse pad on the pan then part of a gray sweater over that. The next day after letting the cheapo fake leather i swiped off a couch sit in a black bag in the sun to kill any potential critters i picked a piece and cut it to size leaving plenty of extra room. Set it on my bbq grill glue side up and was able to take my time and use more glue and scissors getting the edges where i wanted them. (i would recommend also having a sharp knife for this trimming stage). Then put it all back together again. I'm fine with the fake leather. Wasn't sure how it would turn out but looks good enough for me.


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## Allrounderco

Looks awesome,
@Balloonoob! I personally think fake leather is the way to go here in the East, as my bikes get rained on pretty regularly. I did spray my fabric with shoe waterproofing, but that will only help so much. Good thought to use a mouse pad, too.


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## Miq

@Balloonoob your saddle looks great!  So nice with the pinch pan. Welcome to the club of successful saddle makers.


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## mr.cycleplane

Great tutorial Dave! By far the best tutorial you have given has been the 'removing head badges easily' tutorial!


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## Balloonoob

For sale. Rare saddle. Professional restoration $2000 plus shipping.


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## the tinker

Another great saddle job, Balloonoob!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

the tinker said:


> Another great saddle job, Balloonoob!




how's that chair working out for you?    got to watch out for chairs ion the side of the road. saw a cool chair along the road out by my work that is at the end of the road so people dump stuff there... saw a dead calf once... saw a chair, thought I should go look but didn't. later it was gone, then I saw on online, it was an Eames (?) chair worth some money even on poor condition.


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## Balloonoob

So my second attempt at a "real" saddle recover. I sacrificed a brand new modern seat that I found on clearance at Walmart for a dollar just for the padding. Glad I did. This thing is going to be really comfy. The last one i did (see post 46 above) was much flatter with far less curves and it had a pinch pan. Did not turn out comfortable at all. Perhaps on this new one I did had i started from the middle it may have had less creases but I started on the back as i had to cut slits to accommodate the Troxel tag. I'm happy enough with it as I'm sure it will be comfortable for riding.


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## the tinker

First off. Don't be tempted to cover over the old pad. Any imperfections will show. Always work with the seat pan facing up.  Start with firmly molding your material  on the top, pushing straight down to the side, not pulling off to an angle. Starting out by pulling your material to an angle causes wrinkles that will be impossible to get out later.  Once you have the top started off correctly, trim to size  and make slits about every inch or so. Leave ample material, so you don't come up short, but only enough to lap about an inch over the bottom of the pan. You can't pull it tight if you leave too much material. When pulling your tabs, do it with the seat pan facing up, don't turn it upside down to do it. That way you can see what is happening on the top of your saddle. No one cares what the bottom looks like. Always firmly pull your tabs straight down. Go off to one side or the other, even slightly, and it will cause a wrinkle.  Make sure it's perfect before you fold under. The tabs have to be pulled



really tight. From start to finish will take less than a half hour. That includes putting the padding on.






The black seats are from an old worn out leather couch. The white one is new material.


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## Balloonoob

the tinker said:


> First off. Don't be tempted to cover over the old pad. Any imperfections will show. Always work with the seat pan facing up.  Start with firmly molding your material  on the top, pushing straight down to the side, not pulling off to an angle. Starting out by pulling your material to an angle causes wrinkles that will be impossible to get out later.  Once you have the top started off correctly, trim to size  and make slits about every inch or so. Leave ample material, so you don't come up short, but only enough to lap about an inch over the bottom of the pan. You can't pull it tight if you leave too much material. When pulling your tabs, do it with the seat pan facing up, don't turn it upside down to do it. That way you can see what is happening on the top of your saddle. No one cares what the bottom looks like. Always firmly pull your tabs straight down. Go off to one side or the other, even slightly, and it will cause a wrinkle.  Make sure it's perfect before you fold under. The tabs have to be pulledView attachment 1276660
> 
> really tight. From start to finish will take less than a half hour. That includes putting the padding on.View attachment 1276664
> 
> View attachment 1276669
> The black seats are from an old worn out leather couch. The white one is new material.



Thanks man. Wah wah wah wah.... Maybe I'll redo this one later.


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## PlasticNerd

Couldn’t cut up my old leather jacket so I used some old 501s !!


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## westwildcats

Thought provoking thread.  My question is on leather thickness.  I plan on going to Tandy and purchasing new.  Any advice on what ounce leather I should be looking for?  Thinner leather will conform more easily and cost less, thicker should be more sturdy?  5-6 oz?  6-7 oz?  A voice of experience would be most welcome.


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## the tinker

Thin chrome tan leather, used for upholstery.  Hobby lobby sells it. Veg tan is too heavy. Veg tan is thick, can be moistened and formed. It's used on horse saddles. Best bet, carry a razor blade in your car. I just scored enough dynamite red/brown leather to do a dozen saddles off an old couch.  Done many, many saddles and have never bought any leather.


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## westwildcats

Thanks tinker, good to know.


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## STRADALITE

The question is do you want to do your seat cheap or do it right. The problem with using an old jacket or couch is it’s the wrong type of leather.
Veg tan is the only way to go. I’ve done hundreds of seats so I have some first hand knowledge. 
I use 3oz and I wet form it. It’s the only way to get all the wrinkles out.


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## tacochris

STRADALITE said:


> The question is do you want to do your seat cheap or do it right. The problem with using an old jacket or couch is it’s the wrong type of leather.
> Veg tan is the only way to go. I’ve done hundreds of seats so I have some first hand knowledge.
> I use 3oz and I wet form it. It’s the only way to get all the wrinkles out.
> View attachment 1329543



Proof is in the puddin....or so they say.  Beautiful work!


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## the tinker

STRADALITE said:


> The question is do you want to do your seat cheap or do it right. The problem with using an old jacket or couch is it’s the wrong type of leather.
> Veg tan is the only way to go. I’ve done hundreds of seats so I have some first hand knowledge.
> I use 3oz and I wet form it. It’s the only way to get all the wrinkles out.
> View attachment 1329543



Your work is great, but the name of the thread is "Cheap and Quick."  Veg tan leather is not cheap or as easy to find for the backyard bike guy as an old leather chair. There's no comparison between the type of bike you are working on and the ones in this thread. I post this for the average back-yard guy that just wants to do a saddle, cheap and quick, and with a little patience it will come out nice. The veg tan leather work takes practice and much skill. It has  to be dyed, treated and most difficult of all, sewn .  That alone is a  tough skill . Below is a saddle I recently did for a CABER. He came to my house and I recovered this saddle in a half hour. That included taking off the old covering. It's Cheap and Quick, no special tools or skills required.  A hunk of leather off an old chair, and little bit of patience on a Saturday afternoon. What I think you should do is, the next saddle you re-cover, start a thread showing the entire process. From start to finish. A step by step tutorial of exactly how you do it, presented in a way the average person could do it at home.


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## tacochris

the tinker said:


> Your work is great, but the name of the thread is "Cheap and Quick."  Veg tan leather is not cheap or as easy to find for the backyard bike guy as an old leather chair. There's no comparison between the type of bike you are working on and the ones in this thread. I post this for the average back-yard guy that just wants to do a saddle, cheap and quick, and with a little patience it will come out nice. The veg tan leather work takes practice and much skill. It has  to be dyed, treated and most difficult of all, sewn .  That alone is a  tough skill . Below is a saddle I recently did for a CABER. He came to my house and I recovered this saddle in a half hour. That included taking off the old covering. It's Cheap and Quick, no special tools or skills required.  A hunk of leather off an old chair, and little bit of patience on a Saturday afternoon. What I think you should do is, the next saddle you re-cover, start a thread showing the entire process. From start to finish. A step by step tutorial of exactly how you do it, presented in a way the average person could do it at home. View attachment 1329755




I will second this with even more detail:
100% of the bikes I collect and rebuild are patina bikes, some nice survivors and some really not nice rust buckets, but at the end of the day, I dont want a seat thats so nice it stands out like a sore thumb.  So for that reason and also for coin-sake, I recover from old couches and chairs and such because the worn nature of the furniture leather seems to blend in with the era of the bike and the overall "use" of it.
Doing what Stradalite is doing is amazing and anyone would be proud to be able to have that skill, as would I....but I fear if I did, the seat would surely outshine the bike and look "too nice" if that makes sense.


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## the tinker

I'll go one step further. If I attempted to do what Stradalite is doing, my saddles would look like sh*t.


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## tacochris

the tinker said:


> I'll go one step further. If I attempted to do what Stradalite is doing, my saddles would look like sh*t.



haha....we're all thinking it anyway.  ...about ourselves I mean.


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## bricycle

Side note: Tinker has learned this skill due to the fact that he has ruined many a good saddle due to his poor eating habits.


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## the tinker

Bricycle brings up a good point, "ruined many a good saddle."  I've screwed a few up, but I've never ruined any of them. I just start over, learning from my mistakes. You may ruin your piece of leather or fabric by not cutting it big enough. [ this only becomes evident when pulling your tabs of covering over the pan's edges] Make double sure your piece of material is large enough.   I've never ruined a saddle. I just do it over.  Here's a saddle I will do over this winter.



Looks good, I got the leather tight. What's wrong with it? Look closely. See that tiny scratch a couple inches up, on the right? The leather was too old and is starting to rot. I've run into this before, and it only becomes apparent when stretching the leather over the seat pan. look at how the top finish starts separating when pulled tight, especially at the horn. Give your leather a couple real hard pulls before starting your project. If it starts to separate or easily rip, it's too old or too thin.



If you have an old piece of leather, even if it's "new" leather, that has been sitting around for years, it deteriorates if stored incorrectly. I know a few things about leather. During high school, I was in a work program. I got out of school at 1:00 and worked as a leather cutter in a small printing and novelty company. They made small things out of leather, and I cut them, by hand, using a maul . For over two years, I worked with half hides over large maple cutting blocks. Cutting by hand, using sharp metal dies. There's a machine called a "clicker" that does this job now. The shop I worked in had some very ancient machinery, that I know later got scrapped. A leather company would give their left nut to have it now. That was back in 1966, when old bikes and old machinery was viewed as "scrap metal, to get rid of. I'm only familiar with two types of hides. Horse, cattle. Chrome tan and veg tan. Veg tan is generally cow hide, and usually is the most expensive. It's thicker, stronger, and extremely elastic, and workable when wet. It's used for strong belts, horse saddles and harnesses. It accepts tooling and is easily recognizable. When you see intricate designs cut and stamped into leather, it's veg tan. The tanning process of veg tan is the oldest. Sometime, way back when, primitive man found out that animal hides could be used for clothing, they found ways to preserve [tan] it. Trial and error, the oldest teacher. It got it's name from the vegetable compounds used in this process. In Europe, Northern Asia, and North America, bark from oak trees was primarily used. It's still used today, but has been mostly replaced by other less costly compounds. Producing vegetable tan leather is a long and costly process. It uses lots of fresh water and creates hazardous waste. As to be expected, China and Mexico are big producers of tanned leather. It's less costly, but, inferior to leather produced in the United States. If you have worked with new hides, as I once did, you easily recognize "good" leather. Chrome tan leather uses chemicals in the tanning process, and is much easier and less costly to make. Your, furniture, jackets, purses and belts are usually chrome tan. Comes in every color imaginable. Different thicknesses, and can embossed to resemble other species hides. The problem with chrome tan is, it does not accept water. It will not form like veg tan. Untreated veg tan would make a poor rain coat. When wet, veg tan can be easily pulled, molded and "formed." Chrome tan leather is what it is. Not much you can do to make it more workable. I've found that when it's very warm, it is much easier to work with. Especially on a winter day, as my shop is generally pretty cold. As far as my "criteria" for my free leather? I carry a razor knife in my truck and car. If I see an old chair on the curb, that looks like it's leather, I first stop and see if the home owner is out. If I'm alone, I hack into the chair and see if it's truly leather, and not "pleather" or some other man made fabric. I've had homeowners come out and start yelling at me when they see me cutting into the chair that they placed out for the garbage guy. Sometimes I have gone back later to do my "cutting." I've found that leather from chairs is usually perfect for saddles. Sometimes though, it's too thin. Leather jackets are usually made up of smaller pieces of leather. It's generally too thin and is prone to tear when over stretched. I've never found a coat with pieces big enough to do a boy's saddle. One other point, that I thought I had addressed earlier, but apparently I didn't make clear enough. This isn't for the finicky. This post was intended for the "weekend" hobbyist that wants to do something by themselves, that's easy and definitely not costly. It's for saddles generally produced after 1939. Veg tan leather was generally not used on any saddles after this year. Chrome tan, oilcloth and leather look-a -likes are used on the 40's and 50's saddles, and generally have two pans, and are the easiest to do. This JC. Higgins saddle I covered is a two pan saddle.




The leather is used, so they are imperfections in the finish, but these are for riders, not show bikes.

I purposely used a worn piece of couch leather on this saddle, positioning the leather on it to resemble normal saddle wear.








The pre-war saddles are often single pan, and have sewn edges and seams. I haven't tackled any of those yet, but I plan to. I'll keep you folks posted.  On those, I will use veg tan leather. Sewing is a whole new ball game. In the meantime, any of you folks that do the older saddles, and aren't a "hack' like me, please give us a step by step  tutorial, with lots of photos. Share your knowledge. If you don't want to use leather, Ann's Fabrics and Hobby lobby have a large selection of other materials.   Keep having fun! On a side note, after the leather company, I went to work at National Lead Co, at the old Halsted plant on Chicago's far south side. They made lead paint and lead products there since 1906 or 07. That's a story in it's self.


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## the tinker

Here's a half cow hide of veg tan leather I have. You can see the difference between chrome tan that's used on coats and furniture and veg tan. This is good for horse saddles, harnesses, belts and saddle bags. Tools excellent.


The narrow part on right the is from the neck of the cow.



Notice the clip marks around the edges from the tanning process, where it was hung and stretched. The right hand of the picture is the top of the hide and the thickest, strongest part. Excellent for belts. I'm going to cut four belts from this today.  The left side of this photo is the thinnest part of the hide. This hide would have to be "split" or skived to use on a bicycle saddle, as it's too thick.


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## the tinker

I'll include this in this thread. This leather would make dynamite saddle bags for your bike, as it won't collapse like thin leather or other materials.  I made two strap cutters. One for heavy leather and the other for thin straps. The first one is  non-adjustable. That's this one here.


















I cut six straps, 50 plus inches for belts. I'll stamp designs into them. The first belt was hard to cut. I changed the blade angle and they cut easy after that. I squared off the hide with a straight edge before cutting.




This cutter cost nothing but a blade. Used an old tool box handle and some scrap oak. You can buy a cheap cutter for under 50 bucks for cutting the heavy leather. Here's an adjustable cutter I made from a wood worker's marking gauge. It does not ruin the gauge.



All you're doing is re-making the sliding stop. Cut a slot in it to run the leather through and cut a tiny slot for the blade. Used a hunk of cherry for it, because it's super hard, but doesn't split like oak. The blade is from an Exacto knife .







You can buy small  strap cutters for under 50 bucks, but this one's free. The small strap cutter is handy for cutting small straps, any size, and consistent, out of light leather from a quarter inch to inch and a half.  Straps for  hanging tool, and saddle bags? Fringe lace for side bags?  This has bicycle applications, if you think about it.  Made these cutters a couple weeks back. Trying to keep busy during this covid crap. Have fun folks!


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## dasberger

Thanks for the inspiration Tinker...  Here is my first adventure in seat restoration....  It was cheap but wasn't particularly quick.  This seat was on my '41 Excelsior and with the oil cloth turning to dust I had to do something.  The seat in general is really crusty so I figured it would be a good one to sacrifice in the name of learning by doing.

Where I started







Oil cloth and old padding stripped.  I was careful to salvage the old pad to trace





Had some 1/8' foam (randomly green like the original) laying around the warehouse so I glued up 4 layers... next time  I'll just buy 1/2" but this is the cheap and quick thread!













Then I hit all the rust with a wire brush, washed and dried everything





Sprayed with Rust Reformer.  Then painted with Rustoleum enamel





Ready to glue..  Weld wood contact cement...  gotta get it right the first time when the foam and pan go together...  it is not forgiving once stuck





Then I contoured the foam to the pan with some 80 grit





Ready for leather





I got a decent calf skin for $20 at Tandy and looks like I can get 3-4 saddles out of it...  I did try to find a curbside couch but no luck...





For the leather I used the 3m spray adhesive.  I made a stencil out of newspaper to contain the overspray so I could glue the top but stretch edges by hand without getting sticky









I then worked the leather from center of pan to edges getting it nice and smooth





Next I stapled the leather to a piece of plywood working around the edges getting it tight.  I let it sit in the sun for 30 mins and took the staples out.  Then I trimmed excess and glued the leather to the bottom of the pan...  No pic of this step due to adhesive on the hands





And done... not too shabby.  Learned a lot and could certainly do it quicker in warmer weather next time.


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## tacochris

dasberger said:


> Thanks for the inspiration Tinker...  Here is my first adventure in seat restoration....  It was cheap but wasn't particularly quick.  This seat was on my '41 Excelsior and with the oil cloth turning to dust I had to do something.  The seat in general is really crusty so I figured it would be a good one to sacrifice in the name of learning by doing.
> 
> Where I started
> 
> View attachment 1359558View attachment 1359559
> 
> Oil cloth and old padding stripped.  I was careful to salvage the old pad to trace
> 
> View attachment 1359568
> 
> Had some 1/8' foam (randomly green like the original) laying around the warehouse so I glued up 4 layers... next time  I'll just buy 1/2" but this is the cheap and quick thread!
> 
> View attachment 1359569
> 
> View attachment 1359570
> 
> View attachment 1359571
> 
> Then I hit all the rust with a wire brush, washed and dried everything
> 
> View attachment 1359572
> 
> Sprayed with Rust Reformer.  Then painted with Rustoleum enamel
> 
> View attachment 1359573
> 
> Ready to glue..  Weld wood contact cement...  gotta get it right the first time when the foam and pan go together...  it is not forgiving once stuck
> 
> View attachment 1359574
> 
> Then I contoured the foam to the pan with some 80 grit
> 
> View attachment 1359575
> 
> Ready for leather
> 
> View attachment 1359576
> 
> I got a decent calf skin for $20 at Tandy and looks like I can get 3-4 saddles out of it...  I did try to find a curbside couch but no luck...
> 
> View attachment 1359578
> 
> For the leather I used the 3m spray adhesive.  I made a stencil out of newspaper to contain the overspray so I could glue the top but stretch edges by hand without getting sticky
> 
> View attachment 1359579
> 
> View attachment 1359586
> 
> I then worked the leather from center of pan to edges getting it nice and smooth
> 
> View attachment 1359587
> 
> Next I stapled the leather to a piece of plywood working around the edges getting it tight.  I let it sit in the sun for 30 mins and took the staples out.  Then I trimmed excess and glued the leather to the bottom of the pan...  No pic of this step due to adhesive on the hands
> 
> View attachment 1359588
> 
> And done... not too shabby.  Learned a lot and could certainly do it quicker in warmer weather next time.
> 
> View attachment 1359594
> 
> View attachment 1359595
> 
> View attachment 1359596



Dang man....mighty fine work, very clean and precise!


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## the tinker

the tinker said:


> I'll include this in this thread. This leather would make dynamite saddle bags for your bike, as it won't collapse like thin leather or other materials.  I made two strap cutters. One for heavy leather and the other for thin straps. The first one is  non-adjustable. That's this one here.View attachment 1332824
> 
> View attachment 1332825
> 
> View attachment 1332826
> 
> View attachment 1332827
> 
> View attachment 1332828
> I cut six straps, 50 plus inches for belts. I'll stamp designs into them. The first belt was hard to cut. I changed the blade angle and they cut easy after that. I squared off the hide with a straight edge before cutting.
> View attachment 1332816
> 
> This cutter cost nothing but a blade. Used an old tool box handle and some scrap oak. You can buy a cheap cutter for under 50 bucks for cutting the heavy leather. Here's an adjustable cutter I made from a wood worker's marking gauge. It does not ruin the gauge.View attachment 1332819
> 
> All you're doing is re-making the sliding stop. Cut a slot in it to run the leather through and cut a tiny slot for the blade. Used a hunk of cherry for it, because it's super hard, but doesn't split like oak. The blade is from an Exacto knife .View attachment 1332817
> 
> View attachment 1332818
> 
> You can buy small  strap cutters for under 50 bucks, but this one's free. The small strap cutter is handy for cutting small straps, any size, and consistent, out of light leather from a quarter inch to inch and a half.  Straps for  hanging tool, and saddle bags? Fringe lace for side bags?  This has bicycle applications, if you think about it.  Made these cutters a couple weeks back. Trying to keep busy during this covid crap. Have fun folks!
> 
> View attachment 1332814
> 
> View attachment 1332815



Giving up the computer for Lent, so don't anyone try and contact me. Been off the Cabe for a while. So far I made 15 belts. Each one unique in their respective tooling. Always liked Paladin, so I cut a chess knight in half and made a pair of paladin holsters. Also made three other holsters and a bandolier.  Made a guitar strap for a buddy and am now doing two knife sheaths and one bayonet sheath. Mastered hand stitching. I don't think I'll have any problems sewing a saddle. Been keeping really busy.   Stay safe.. . tink.


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## ian

I tried on a Trodel ladies saddle.3 times! I'm getting closer to having it look okay. 
I got a yoga mat at Goodwill  along with a large, colored purse. Two different colors that will do 4 or 5 saddles. All of the materials cost $8.00, plus tax.


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## Miq

Franken Saddle recover with Amazon squishy closed cell stadium cushion and light weight black A-1 upholstery leather $24


























It’s not perfect but I like it.  Nice rider.


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## Balloonoob

Miq said:


> Franken Saddle recover with Amazon squishy closed cell stadium cushion and light weight black A-1 upholstery leather $24
> View attachment 1397359View attachment 1397360View attachment 1397361View attachment 1397372View attachment 1397362View attachment 1397363View attachment 1397364View attachment 1397365View attachment 1397366View attachment 1397367View attachment 1397368View attachment 1397369View attachment 1397370It’s not perfect but I like it.  Nice rider.



I like it! Much better than the modern saddle.  Hopefully it's comfortable enough.  I never noticed the hookworms on the Columbia. Looking good. I just ordered a pair today! Can't wait to get em!


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## Gimletbikes

dasberger said:


> Thanks for the inspiration Tinker...  Here is my first adventure in seat restoration....  It was cheap but wasn't particularly quick.  This seat was on my '41 Excelsior and with the oil cloth turning to dust I had to do something.  The seat in general is really crusty so I figured it would be a good one to sacrifice in the name of learning by doing.
> 
> Where I started
> 
> View attachment 1359558View attachment 1359559
> 
> Oil cloth and old padding stripped.  I was careful to salvage the old pad to trace
> 
> View attachment 1359568
> 
> Had some 1/8' foam (randomly green like the original) laying around the warehouse so I glued up 4 layers... next time  I'll just buy 1/2" but this is the cheap and quick thread!
> 
> View attachment 1359569
> 
> View attachment 1359570
> 
> View attachment 1359571
> 
> Then I hit all the rust with a wire brush, washed and dried everything
> 
> View attachment 1359572
> 
> Sprayed with Rust Reformer.  Then painted with Rustoleum enamel
> 
> View attachment 1359573
> 
> Ready to glue..  Weld wood contact cement...  gotta get it right the first time when the foam and pan go together...  it is not forgiving once stuck
> 
> View attachment 1359574
> 
> Then I contoured the foam to the pan with some 80 grit
> 
> View attachment 1359575
> 
> Ready for leather
> 
> View attachment 1359576
> 
> I got a decent calf skin for $20 at Tandy and looks like I can get 3-4 saddles out of it...  I did try to find a curbside couch but no luck...
> 
> View attachment 1359578
> 
> For the leather I used the 3m spray adhesive.  I made a stencil out of newspaper to contain the overspray so I could glue the top but stretch edges by hand without getting sticky
> 
> View attachment 1359579
> 
> View attachment 1359586
> 
> I then worked the leather from center of pan to edges getting it nice and smooth
> 
> View attachment 1359587
> 
> Next I stapled the leather to a piece of plywood working around the edges getting it tight.  I let it sit in the sun for 30 mins and took the staples out.  Then I trimmed excess and glued the leather to the bottom of the pan...  No pic of this step due to adhesive on the hands
> 
> View attachment 1359588
> 
> And done... not too shabby.  Learned a lot and could certainly do it quicker in warmer weather next time.
> 
> View attachment 1359594
> 
> View attachment 1359595
> 
> View attachment 1359596



This looks great. Love the sun step. Really good write up.


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## gymmanager

Posting my experience covering a seat not because it turned out great like everyone else’s but because it didn’t (it’s embarrassingly bad) and hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes.
I read somewhere that carpet padding is good for seats and I have some laying around so I used it. Attached it to the pan with #90 spray adhesive that is recommended for headliners. So far so good.











Contoured the pad with a bench top sander, fully expecting it to tear up the padding, but it took shape better than I expected. The leather was placed out in the sun while I sanded the padding - it’s 100 degrees here so the leather got good and warmed up.







I used the padding cut out as a stencil to spray glue the leather- so I didn’t get glue all over. @dasberger did that for his recover and I stole his idea.




Then I applied the top and stapled the whole mess to a piece of wood, again a Dasberger idea. I took the bottom pan and clamped it upside down to the top, creating pressure so everything would bond tightly.







After all that it still turned out a hot mess. For one thing the leather I used was from very old chairs and was rather saggy, not flat at all, so it bunched up when I laid it on the seat. I also think a layer of flannel over the carpet pad would help smooth out some wrinkles and add a little tension to the leather. Finally, I wasn’t as patient and attentive to detail as I probably should have been. Takeaways:
Carpet pad works pretty well 
Use a stencil to keep your glue contained
Staple down your work
It’s okay to use salvaged leather but look it over closely before you commit to it
Patience is a virtue

In the end, I’m a little bummed but it was a junker seat to begin with. I have 2 more seats to do so I hope to improve as I go. Thanks @the tinker and everyone else on this thread for the inspiration, I never would have even tried this had I not seen all your fine work!


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## Miq

I think it looks comfy. I bet it rides nice.  It’s really much better than you think. I’m glad you posted your thoughts and pics.

To me, the leather looks pretty burly.  I can imagine it not wanting to stretch out nice and perfectly flat for you.  I always try to start in the center of the pad and work my way out to the edges, smoothing it out along the way.  I used some light weight upholstery leather from amazon above and it is soft and thin.  That helps a lot.

Keep trying and your saddles will keep getting better.


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## westwildcats

Thanks for sharing, even if it wasn't to your satisfaction.  Can't speak for others, but for me personally, I learn quite a bit more when things don't turn out perfectly.  I've got a seat to re-cover, but so far haven't taken the plunge.  I'm learning a LOT from this thread.  Best of luck on your next try.


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## Gimletbikes

I've never covered a saddle, but I'm about to. I'm learning a lot watching you guys. Thanks for posting even the ones that arent perfect - it helps.


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## Drzdave58

This saddle I recently recovered wasn’t quick but it was cheap.
I had some scrap leather laying around from a leather jacket I had cut up. I cut pieces into triangles and sewed them together by hand which took many hours. I then cut out this plastic shipping sponge into diamond shapes and glued them onto the back of the leather. 
removed the old leather off the seat but left the foam covered in felt as it was still in excellent condition. I also polished the springs to make them pop. Turned out ok and is comfortable on my Ruff cruiser.


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## STRADALITE

Sanding the foam to get the right shape is a good start but the biggest problem everyone is having is caused by the leather. Not all leather is the same and by using a piece from a couch or old jacket or something else will typically not get great results.
The seat pan has a few tough contours that the odd piece of leather won’t stretch around. Hence all of the wrinkles everyone ends up with.
The right leather will get the best results.


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## WetDogGraphix

STRADALITE said:


> Sanding the foam to get the right shape is a good start but the biggest problem everyone is having is caused by the leather. Not all leather is the same and by using a piece from a couch or old jacket or something else will typically not get great results.
> The seat pan has a few tough contours that the odd piece of leather won’t stretch around. Hence all of the wrinkles everyone ends up with.
> The right leather will get the best results. View attachment 1684526
> 
> View attachment 1684527


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## Miq

@STRADALITE is there a name for the type of leather that is thin, durable, and somewhat stretchy to look for? The “light weight upholstery leather” I used was close, but it doesn’t look like the leather you use…



			https://www.amazon.com/Upholstery-Leather-Cowhide-Weight-inches/dp/B003AP4CME


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## WetDogGraphix

Miq said:


> @STRADALITE is there a name for the type of leather that is thin, durable, and somewhat stretchy to look for? The “light weight upholstery leather” I used was close, but it doesn’t look like the leather you use…
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Upholstery-Leather-Cowhide-Weight-inches/dp/B003AP4CME



2-3oz English Bridle Leather....





__





						ENGLISH BRIDLE – Wickett-Craig
					






					wickett-craig.com


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## STRADALITE

WetDogGraphix said:


> 2-3oz English Bridle Leather....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENGLISH BRIDLE – Wickett-Craig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wickett-craig.com



I would agree.


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