# my 1950 Schwinn Traveler (?) project



## 49autocycledeluxe

about 5 years ago I saw a sad looking Schwinn racer in a pile of "crummy bikes" at a bike swap for 20 bucks. put some middleweight wheels on it because that is what I had and made a light-middleweight. this got me interested in Schwinn lightweights. been casually looking for one for about 2 years or so, and @gkeep posted this in the ebay and Craigslist section the other day. so I called dibs    so no other Cabers could snag it.

belonged to the ladies Grandfather. I thought that was cool. I'm going to send pictures after I do it up. she was aware of the CABE, but did not want to join to list a bike, so I told her how cool we all are, and this was where I saw the listing.

the 3 speed hub shifted well on my stand. I bet I could ride it with new tires and tubes, no brakes though. yet.

there looks to be a lot of paint on this bike. if not for the Cabe I would just buff it, but this oxywhatsit looks like maybe the way to go.... what I think is rust may be dirt so we'll see as I get into it.

wondering about the wheels. would those be 1950 wheels? has a Sturmey Archer 3 speed.

here's some crummy phone pics. I'll put more as I get into it.


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## gkeep

Congratulations on snagging that. It must be earlier than 1953 with the serial number on the bottom bracket. Did she tell you her grandfathers name or address in Alameda? You could probably find a high school yearbook photo of him online.

If the bottom bracket has that much paint the rest of the bike should clean up well. Are those the old Schwinn 26X13/8, ISO 597 size tires? It does look like a lot more grime than rust not the frame. Time for a Simple Green wipe test.


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## rennfaron

Very early traveler (complete). Probably one of the earliest I have seen. Round head badge on 1950 and 1951 years. Razor stem only on some of the very first ones in 1950. Looks like T8 pedals, I assume original. 21" frame.

Wheels look original and should be S-6. 

Can you see what the Sturmey hub stamped date is?


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## 49autocycledeluxe

gkeep said:


> Congratulations on snagging that. It must be earlier than 1953 with the serial number on the bottom bracket. Did she tell you her grandfathers name or address in Alameda? You could probably find a high school yearbook photo of him online.
> 
> If the bottom bracket has that much paint the rest of the bike should clean up well. Are those the old Schwinn 26X13/8, ISO 597 size tires? It does look like a lot more grime than rust not the frame. Time for a Simple Green wipe test.



I'm going to send her pics when I make some progress. I am going to ask if she has a picture of her grandfather with the bike.

"Schwinn straight side sports touring tires" are what is on it. one has a nut on the threaded valve stem. pretty sure they are 26 X 1 3/8

pretty jazzed about this. I've seen bikes that looked much worse than this come back nice.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

rennfaron said:


> Looks like T8 pedals, I assume original. 21" frame.
> 
> Wheels look original and should be S-6.
> 
> Can you see what the Sturmey hub stamped date is?



can't see much yet, the chrome has rust....


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## 49autocycledeluxe

cut the brake cables and both wheels spin and the chain goes round and round. revved it up pretty good but it howled when I stopped pedaling, probably dry as a bone inside.


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## Oilit

Your wheels look right. I've got a late '53 Traveler with that same diamond knurl on the rims, by '55 that changed to a straight knurl.


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## SirMike1983

The hub date on the AW hub will give you an indication. The other indicator is if the driver has the screw-on cog rather than the three-prong. Those wheels don't strike me as being wrong. The paint is going to be a tough call. Use of a chemical method like Evaporust or Oxalic Acid carries the risk that it lifts the paint or discolors the transfers, but when it works, it works rather well. It's a calculated risk. The other option is four-ought steel wool and something like WD-40 to physically reduce the rust. Though the results with that aren't quite as dramatic. The last option is to simply clean it and leave the rust/paint state as-is. This is mainly for historically significant bikes that have to be preserved in a certain state of originality. For practical purposes, I recommend reducing the rust, and the method really calls for having the bike in-hand and evaluating your options.


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## rennfaron

If you OA bath it take it apart and work with each piece separately because the frame might not require as long in the bath as other parts.


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## 1motime

Try cleaning with Simple Green.  It should tell you how much is surface rust.  You are probably to completely disassemble.  Check out how OA works on your plated parts.  If you feel confident try a section of fork.  Go from there.  It will only get better and it is already a good one!


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## gkeep

Try the plated parts in Simple Green 50/50 with water. Soaked and then hit with the brass brush. Here's how parts cleaned up on the Hercules I gave to a friend last fall.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

busy weekend but managed to take it down to the bits and pieces. spent more time on two fasteners than the entire rest of the bike.  took a bunch of pics with my camera at the wrong setting, so they came out stupid. got some cool stuff with my fancy phone. here's the bones from a "enhanced" crummy pic..


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## 49autocycledeluxe

had to cut this nut and bolt with my one sharp chisel. it was a good nut and bolt, a Schwinn nut and bolt. it did its job well for 70 years.


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## 49autocycledeluxe




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## GTs58

Schwinn should have used a stainless steel socket head screw on that attachment.  Twenty plus years ago I picked up Dremel with a cable extension just for that situation. Well worth the investment and it's great for other hobbies or engraving the Little Lady's name on her nightstand toys so they don't get mixed up with your tools.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I have 10 different ways to remove that rusty nut set both electric and air. I used the chisel so I would not damage anything around it. 3 or 4 smacks with the hammer did it.

I bought some evaporust and a small tray thing to do some smaller parts to see what happens. I want to be sure I know what I am doing before attempting the frame. decals look pretty fragile.


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## SirMike1983

The structure of the "wing" decals Schwinn used are not necessarily any more or less fragile than their others, but the writing on the decals is the main issue - they tend to bleach out all white as exposed to sunlight or as they age. I've seen some of these bikes where the decals are just all white now. I find Evaporust a bit gentler, but also more expensive than oxalic acid deck crystals.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

bought Evaporust and some brass brushes, steel wool and a small tub.. I went to my favorite hardware store because it is like America when you go there. Dale Hardware. it has been in my city almost as long as I have. the plastic tubs were expensive there so I bought the small one. off to Wallyworld I suppose so i can do the fenders and chainguard in a cheap tub. I may only dip the top part of the frame.

most of the chrome has been removed from the bucket after a couple hours and some good pieces some not so good. put the crank and brake levers back in. I think my stem and bars will be incredibly pitted. 





for all the rust this bike has all but two fasteners came off like this bike was 5 years old. no scarred or rounded hardware.  I could not get this bugger off so I am just going to clean it up where it sits.






wonder how many times the rear wheel had been removed from this bike.  







this is a bunch of fun. everybody should do it.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

random before pics..


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## GTs58

Having fun is what it's all about! And it looks like the rear wheel was taken off once for new tires at one point?


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## 49autocycledeluxe

it had two Schwinn tires, could be original. front had a few patches on the tube. haven't taken the rear tire off to see what is inside the rear. you can patch a tube with the wheel on the bike. I would bet there had never been a wrench on the handlebars or stem.


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## SirMike1983

The clamping of the pulley is less important than that the wheel turns to accommodate movement of the shifter cable as you shift. I suppose you want to remove the pulley to check for rust on the frame underneath, but as long as the wheel turns, that will function. If the wheel is frozen, you will have to work at it to get that small axle screw loose and free the wheel. They don't shift well with a frozen wheel and it accelerates wear on the cable.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

SirMike1983 said:


> They don't shift well with a frozen wheel and it accelerates wear on the cable.




the wheels spins, hopefully the screw comes out so I can remove the pulley and clean it up real good with a Dremel or something. I have been putting PB Blaster on it. maybe it will come loose if I give it another try.  

took some items from the "bath" this morning before work. that is amazing stuff. the headset and the brakes came out very nice, except where the chrome had flaked on some of the brake parts. crank and kickstand cleaned up way better than expected. pics later.


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> the wheels spins, hopefully the screw comes out so I can remove the pulley and clean it up real good with a Dremel or something. I have been putting PB Blaster on it. maybe it will come loose if I give it another try.
> 
> took some items from the "bath" this morning before work. that is amazing stuff. the headset and the brakes came out very nice, except where the chrome had flaked on some of the brake parts. crank and kickstand cleaned up way better than expected. pics l






49autocycledeluxe said:


> Piece by piece.  Then they can go back together.  Sounds like is going OK!  Even if everything is not perfect it should be a great riding bike.  If it shifts OK you have a good one


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## 49autocycledeluxe

"then they go back together" .... I think if I had it to do over again I would put like one complete disassembled brake in a jar with its own evaporust.  then I would not have to sort through all this little hardware to figure what's what. a little jar for each sub assembly. I'm sure I'll figure it out, but it would have been simpler if they were separated beforehand


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> "then they go back together" .... I think if I had it to do over again I would put like one complete disassembled brake in a jar with its own evaporust.  then I would not have to sort through all this little hardware to figure what's what. a little jar for each sub assembly. I'm sure I'll figure it out, but it would have been simpler if they were separated beforehand



No instructions included. The learning curve  can be enjoyable also!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

clean parts. 

I got the bell to ding. I may have to do surgery to make it ring.


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## 1motime

I don't see much missing. Good job. Painted metal next?


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I think before I go any further I will reassemble the brakes. too many tiny washers and such! fenders and wheels next. I have the tip of the front fender in my little tub right now, we'll see how it goes after work. need a bigger tub.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

...left the seat parts in too long and it removed the paint.


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## GTs58

49autocycledeluxe said:


> ...left the seat parts in too long and it removed the paint.




Usually the factory paint on the seats is some cheap crap, probably a dip and no metal prep, and it falls or peels off all on it's own. Easy fix once the stuff is all cleaned up.


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> ...left the seat parts in too long and it removed the paint.



Did you intend on using the seat anyway?  Looked a bit used.  Those "mattress" seats did not age well.  Not the most comfortable things even in the beginning


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## 49autocycledeluxe

1motime said:


> Did you intend on using the seat anyway?  Looked a bit used.  Those "mattress" seats did not age well.  Not the most comfortable things even in the beginning



I think if I replace the underlying leather with a new piece I can shape it to fit and put the black cover back on. this seat is pretty unique, so I will do whatever I can to save it. if I replace it I would replace it with another just like it. I have a Brooks to use so I can ride it before the seat gets fixed/replaced.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

picked up a parts bike today with much better bars and gooseneck. the rest will go on a bare frame I have.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

here's some pics of the shiny bits and frame. the frame looked better just being away from the rusty chrome. did a few spots with WD40 and 0000 steel wool. I think that is how I will do the frame. fenders have lots of pits as expected, bars and stem will be replaced by better parts from the parts bike.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

any parts in these pics not crusty have been rubbed on one way or another. I still have lots to do. WD 40 and steel wool, then mirror glaze is the plan.

I should start using my actual camera so I can control the focus.


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## 49autocycledeluxe




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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> View attachment 1407592
> 
> View attachment 1407594
> 
> View attachment 1407595



What a difference!  Very nice.  Wasn't sure it would clean up this nice.  Great decals.  That cable wheel is going to start whispering to you...


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I haven't given up on the cable wheel. I just haven't gone back and given it another try.

broke the wheels down today. I may end up using the hoops from the parts bike as these have lots of rust even after dipping a few of the worst spots..


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## 49autocycledeluxe

just found this photo on the internet.  color is "Violet", not maroon as I thought, or brown as the previous owner thought. at night time, without your glasses, mine will look just like this.


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## 1motime

Definitely something to aim for!


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## Oilit

49autocycledeluxe said:


> just found this photo on the internet.  color is "Violet", not maroon as I thought, or brown as the previous owner thought. at night time, without your glasses, mine will look just like this.
> 
> View attachment 1408684



Was it Joan Rivers who said her best beauty aid was the light switch?


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I have been working away at it, but my internet went down at home so I have not been reporting in.. hope these pics are not too huge... "paint" on my work computer does not edit the size!!

the paint is coming out much better than expected. it turns out this fancy metallic paint, I think it is Violet Metallic..... whatever it was, it was painted over maroon, (factory) and the metallic paint is what failed. if you look at it close in the sun it is now Maroon and Violet.... more Violet on the undersides and Maroon on the top. I used the WD 40 and 0000 steel wool to get the rust, and a combination of 2000 grit sand paper, and rubbing compound to make the paint come back. yesterday I worked on the forks, I put a good 3 hours into them. they were really rusty on the right side, as was the chainguard. maybe it was leaned against a bush or something for 40 years.

polishing the paint around the decals and pinstripes is very time consuming. I bet I have 8-10 hours into the paint on this  project and I am still not done.


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## Oilit

49autocycledeluxe said:


> I have been working away at it, but my internet went down at home so I have not been reporting in.. hope these pics are not too huge... "paint" on my work computer does not edit the size!!
> 
> the paint is coming out much better than expected. it turns out this fancy metallic paint, I think it is Violet Metallic..... whatever it was, it was painted over maroon, (factory) and the metallic paint is what failed. if you look at it close in the sun it is now Maroon and Violet.... more Violet on the undersides and Maroon on the top. I used the WD 40 and 0000 steel wool to get the rust, and a combination of 2000 grit sand paper, and rubbing compound to make the paint come back. yesterday I worked on the forks, I put a good 3 hours into them. they were really rusty on the right side, as was the chainguard. maybe it was leaned against a bush or something for 40 years.
> 
> polishing the paint around the decals and pinstripes is very time consuming. I bet I have 8-10 hours into the paint on this  project and I am still not done.
> 
> View attachment 1413053
> 
> View attachment 1413054



So the factory painted violet over maroon? A lot of the New Worlds were painted maroon, makes me wonder if this was a late New World that got re-painted as the new Traveler. Otherwise, why would they paint it twice? Or did I miss your meaning?


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## 49autocycledeluxe

Oilit said:


> So the factory painted violet over maroon?




yes, it appears that the factory painted the violet over maroon. not sure the reasoning behind it. I don't think they painted it twice, the violet was probably somewhat translucent and needed the maroon under it, or the primer color would show through. the top coat definitely failed miserably while as we can see the maroon can be buffed out. it does not really show in pictures but on the top of the tubes the failed violet was obvious. pretty sure metallic paints were a pretty new thing in 1950. if the bike was just maroon the paint would have held up even better.


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> yes, it appears that the factory painted the violet over maroon. not sure the reasoning behind it. I don't think they painted it twice, the violet was probably somewhat translucent and needed the maroon under it, or the primer color would show through. the top coat definitely failed miserably while as we can see the maroon can be buffed out. it does not really show in pictures but on the top of the tubes the failed violet was obvious. pretty sure metallic paints were a pretty new thing in 1950. if the bike was just maroon the paint would have held up even better.



I think you are right.  Metallics were new technology.  A bit unrefined.  That thing must have really shined across the showroom floor!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

rennfaron said:


> Very early traveler (complete). Probably one of the earliest I have seen. Round head badge on 1950 and 1951 years. Razor stem only on some of the very first ones in 1950. Looks like T8 pedals, I assume original. 21" frame.
> Can you see what the Sturmey hub stamped date is?




the 3 speed is dated 1949.


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## SirMike1983

A 1949 hub could certainly lead to a 1950 model, especially a hub from later in 1949. It has never been clear to me how long Schwinn waited to use Sturmey parts that were coming in. Some of the parts appear to have been fairly archaic while Schwinn continued to use them. The quadrant shifter is an example. I've seen bikes as late as the first half of 1948 using quadrant shifters, when the mainline British manufacturers had moved away from them largely. The British began moving away from the quadrant as early as 1939 or so, but even in 1948 Schwinn was still using quadrant shifters, black-out pulleys, etc. I wonder if perhaps Schwinn had gone in heavily on buying British parts supplies thinking the adult-oriented bikes in the 1940s were going to be more successful than they turned out to be. But that's speculation on my part.


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## Alan Brase

What makes this a Traveler and not a "New World"? I've got one of each, a 1943ish New World and a 1953 Traveler.


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## GTs58

Alan Brase said:


> What makes this a Traveler and not a "New World"? I've got one of each, a 1943ish New World and a 1953 Traveler.





The decal package with the word Traveler on the seat tube and bright fenders.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

GTs58 said:


> The decal package with the word Traveler on the seat tube and bright fenders.




my bike has New World on the seat tube as well. if there was a Traveler decal on the chain guard it is gone now. Travelers were 3 speeds with chrome fenders. they also came with a generator light and seat bag.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I have seen later ones with Traveler on the downtube decal, probably on the seat tube as well but the photo did not show that.


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## Alan Brase

I see. I agree that the subject bike looks exactly like the bike shown in the advertisement. So, that's what a Traveler was in 1950! My later Traveler is perhaps a 1954. It was my first full sized bike in 1959, and in pretty worn down ragged shape. My dad saw value in it at $25 and it was a great learning experience for me as he pulled apart the front hub and bottom bracket and bought new parts from the Schwinn dealer. Even then, 1959, he was complaining about the tire price of the genuine Schwinn tires. Interesting that mine also came with generator lights. I figured them  to be dealer installed. Putting them on felt like throwing out the anchor.


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## Oilit

Alan Brase said:


> I see. I agree that the subject bike looks exactly like the bike shown in the advertisement. So, that's what a Traveler was in 1950! My later Traveler is perhaps a 1954. It was my first full sized bike in 1959, and in pretty worn down ragged shape. My dad saw value in it at $25 and it was a great learning experience for me as he pulled apart the front hub and bottom bracket and bought new parts from the Schwinn dealer. Even then, 1959, he was complaining about the tire price of the genuine Schwinn tires. Interesting that mine also came with generator lights. I figured them  to be dealer installed. Putting them on felt like throwing out the anchor.



The Traveler always had lights as standard, while the New World never did, and it looks like the metallic paints were available on the Traveler from the start. I think the New Worlds were always enamel. But mechanically the only difference is that the New World had a three-piece crank as an option, the Travelers were always one-piece. And the three-piece cranks are interesting, but I'm not sure they offered a real advantage.


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## 1motime

Oilit said:


> The Traveler always had lights as standard, while the New World never did, and it looks like the metallic paints were available on the Traveler from the start. I think the New Worlds were always enamel. But mechanically the only difference is that the New World had a three-piece crank as an option, the Travelers were always one-piece. And the three-piece cranks are interesting, but I'm not sure they offered a real advantage.



The 3 piece cranks were probably just to mimic the British bikes.  Couldn't have been worth the effort


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## Alan Brase

Oilit said:


> The Traveler always had lights as standard, while the New World never did, and it looks like the metallic paints were available on the Traveler from the start. I think the New Worlds were always enamel. But mechanically the only difference is that the New World had a three-piece crank as an option, the Travelers were always one-piece. And the three-piece cranks are interesting, but I'm not sure they offered a real advantage.



Agreed. I didn't exactly know the changeover date. I can remember as a 12 year old kid sombody telling me my 54 was not as special as the one that  said "WORLD", so my whole life I have suffered from "WORLD" envy! I overcompensated in 1974 by buying a brand new Paramount P13. Which now hangs hangs 2 feet from the headboard of my bed. I did ride the Paramount a few thousand miles, but the 3 speed Traveler probably 20,000 miles as a kid. Yes, mine had the Flambouyant Green. Which my stupid ass removed as a 12 year old. Maybe in my dotage it will get restored. Gonna do the New World and 1940 Superior first. (This is my life in a paragraph. The Traveler perhaps the biggest single factor. It set me free!)


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## SirMike1983

My experience is the three-piece crank is a little lighter and runs a little smoother than the one-piece, condition being equal. But the one-piece works perfectly fine when cleaned and greased properly. The one-piece has the big advantage today of being easier to get parts. "Schwinn" marked original three-piece crank parts like cups, spindles, and the cranks/sprockets are hard to find in good condition, whereas a post-war one-piece crank set is still pretty common.


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## Schwinny

SirMike1983 said:


> My experience is the three-piece crank is a little lighter and runs a little smoother than the one-piece, condition being equal. But the one-piece works perfectly fine when cleaned and greased properly. The one-piece has the big advantage today of being easier to get parts. "Schwinn" marked original three-piece crank parts like cups, spindles, and the cranks/sprockets are hard to find in good condition, whereas a post-war one-piece crank set is still pretty common.



I've experimented a little bit with this situation and I prefer the one piece. That is.... considering the type, not the brand. I've been using a 1pc BB with cageless bearings and a shoulder less cone on each side that uses a plastic disc in place of the standard full flange cone. the plastic disc fits tight enough into the race, its sold as water proof. That setup weighs a little less than a Steel Union 3pc BB and arms I have and you get tired of waiting for it to stop spinning if spun with no chain. 
I think I paid $14 for the BB setup and just added 2 extra bearings on each side to take up the cage space.
I read all that somewhere a few years back. Tried the BB last year and went cageless a month back.
Of course I cant leave well enough alone so....


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## rennfaron

Alan Brase said:


> What makes this a Traveler and not a "New World"? I've got one of each, a 1943ish New World and a 1953 Traveler.



The NWs discontinued in 1949/50. The NW essentially turned into the traveler in 1950 and like @GTs58 said it got new look: decals plus other stuff like a light kit and a saddle bag, and some of the components changed with the times. 1950 ushered in a new line of lightweights which are the Traveler and World models (the world was the base model of lightweight at the time). Many of us technically call the early traveler a "world traveler" because of the decals and because the Schwinn ads at the time termed it the "World Traveler." Some of the early price lists also state World next to Traveler. World eventually dropped from Traveler and it was just referred to as Traveler and the decals also reflected that. New world, world, traveler, continental were obviously all associated terms that they were trying to push early on with the lightweights. The very early World Travelers (1950-51) also received the same exact New World head badge that you found on all the New Worlds during the 40s.


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## Alan Brase

Meant this as reply to a quote re the paint being a brand new 1950 thing: Not so sure about that. That red/burgundy paint looks EXACTLY like the paint on my 1946 Continental. Indeed, it does look 2 stage. I often felt the blue Continentals from 1946-7 looked 2 stage as well. So, not disputing that it is 2 stage, only that Schwinn was trying it 4 years earlier. I think the Continental production volume was quite low. Perhaps a few hundred per year?


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## GTs58

Alan Brase said:


> Meant this as reply to a quote re the paint being a brand new 1950 thing: Not so sure about that. That red/burgundy paint looks EXACTLY like the paint on my 1946 Continental. Indeed, it does look 2 stage. I often felt the blue Continentals from 1946-7 looked 2 stage as well. So, not disputing that it is 2 stage, only that Schwinn was trying it 4 years earlier. I think the Continental production volume was quite low. Perhaps a few hundred per year?




The World Opalescent colors was $.65 extra in 51. Both Opal and solid color enamel paints were available.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

Alan Brase said:


> Meant this as reply to a quote re the paint being a brand new 1950 thing: Not so sure about that.




*metallic* paint in general was new. not new that year.


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## Oilit

Alan Brase said:


> Meant this as reply to a quote re the paint being a brand new 1950 thing: Not so sure about that. That red/burgundy paint looks EXACTLY like the paint on my 1946 Continental. Indeed, it does look 2 stage. I often felt the blue Continentals from 1946-7 looked 2 stage as well. So, not disputing that it is 2 stage, only that Schwinn was trying it 4 years earlier. I think the Continental production volume was quite low. Perhaps a few hundred per year?



I've just assumed that the Continental was a higher-end bike than the New World, so it got the new style paint first, then the more common lightweights got it starting with the Traveler, but I could be wrong. I know just enough about paint to know there's a lot I don't know.


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## GTs58

49autocycledeluxe said:


> metal flake paint in general was new. not new that year.




Technically that's not metal flake and metal flake was a later entry in painting and gel coats. Metallic paint has different size flakes from very small to medium size and the metal flake has very large flakes and it's used on the old custom show cars and boat finishes. Here is what's known as metal flake. Or at least it was before everyone changed the definition.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I misspoke. I have metal flake on the brain because I know the guy who sells the Roth Flake. his paint store is 100 yards from me as I type.


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## Alan Brase

Crazy how big a dollar was back then. I remember looking at the 1940 catalog and seeing frame prices. $30 for a Paramount and $20 for a Superior. I bet a replacement New World frame was less than $10 in 1949. 
Opalescent? That was the key sales pitch before "Flamboyant"? 
I do happen to know quite a bit about paint and have state license to kill the ozone. (with auto paint). But way more enthralled with original paint.  
I'd not be so principled as to not try to TOUCH UP or fog in a bit more color on a few of mine.
Just practicing this now with an original paint (but not much of it) 1955 VW single cab pick up.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

after spending countless hours making the paint look like paint again I decided it was time to ride it.... well..... 75% of it. these are the coaster brake wheels from the parts bike and new tires and tubes. I am going to respoke the original wheels and I wanted to ride it TODAY. I am still working on the paint so this is as far as I care to assemble it right now... 

wonder how many years it has been since a person rode this bike?


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## 49autocycledeluxe




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## 49autocycledeluxe

found that seat ^^^ on ebay that had the same feel as the original so I got it. it will go on something else later. it is a newer style than the original which had leather and "horsehair" padding under the "pleather" cover.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

going to run these bars and stem even though they are crummy.

the 1959 Alameda bicycle licence did not like what I was using to make the paint shine and came off... I wasn't going to remove it, but now that it has come off I am going to put it on its own little bracket somewhere on the bike.


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## Freqman1

49autocycledeluxe said:


> after spending countless hours making the paint look like paint again I decided it was time to ride it.... well..... 75% of it. these are the coaster brake wheels from the parts bike and new tires and tubes. I am going to respoke the original wheels and I wanted to ride it TODAY. I am still working on the paint so this is as far as I care to assemble it right now...
> 
> wonder how many years it has been since a person rode this bike?



That's the part I like is when you rescue something and make it serviceable after many years is thinking about the person who first got the bike and you reliving that joy all these years later. V/r Shawn


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> View attachment 1420820
> 
> View attachment 1420821
> 
> View attachment 1420822
> 
> View attachment 1420823
> 
> View attachment 1420824



Good job!  Come a long way and it up and going!  How do you like it?  They are great riding bikes.  Where is your badge?


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## 49autocycledeluxe

1motime said:


> Good job!  Come a long way and it up and going!  How do you like it?  They are great riding bikes.  Where is your badge?




I like these bikes, that's why I got this one, I have a 1960 Racer in the small frame, but with S-7 wheels. these parts wheels I put on roll and brake good but are not true. I didn't ride too far as the grips I put on the handle bars were loose. badge is in a baggie with the screws.

can't wait to get the 3 speed wheels going. I haven't had a 3 speed since I was 8 or so. 

I was inches away from looking at a Racer as well as a COPPERTONE Colleigiate 5 speed locally but was able to control the urge.


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> I like these bikes, that's why I got this one, I have a 1960 Racer in the small frame, but with S-7 wheels. these parts wheels I put on roll and brake good but are not true. I didn't ride too far as the grips I put on the handle bars were loose. badge is in a baggie with the screws.
> 
> can't wait to get the 3 speed wheels going. I haven't had a 3 speed since I was 8 or so.
> 
> I was inches away from looking at a Racer as well as a COPPERTONE Colleigiate 5 speed locally but was able to control the urge.



The 3 speed if working correctly makes all the difference.  They really move out.  Stay strong.  Can't stop at one.  Or a few!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

1motime said:


> Stay strong.  Can't stop at one.  Or a few!




I'd like to get an earlier one.  pre war  maybe .... some day.  the two I mentioned above were a bit worn.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

...and the sickness continues. picking this up for 40 bucks this afternoon. 1941.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

went for a good ride last night, not far, about 5 miles maybe.


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## 1motime

49autocycledeluxe said:


> ...and the sickness continues. picking this up for 40 bucks this afternoon. 1941.
> 
> View attachment 1422521



Good deal.  Good seat


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## gkeep

1motime said:


> Good deal.  Good seat



And cool old style basket!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

putting the brakes and fenders together. original cable and housing up front, the rear housing is pretty beat, anyone have some 1950 Schwinn brake cable housing? brakes feel good I must have put them back together correctly.  I have some NOS brake shoes for one set.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

finished up with the fenders last night. they were pretty rusty, I ended up polishing them on my buffer. not perfect but WAY better than before.


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## 49autocycledeluxe




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## 1motime

Sharp looking Traveler!  Good job!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

almost done, I should have got spokes for the wheels while I was doing other things. after I install the rear brake the 3 speed wheels are next. I think I'll need a shifter and a new (old) rear brake cable housing, then it is on to the next rusty bike.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I have torn the old rusty bell apart, and now it rings, I just have to figure out how I am going to put it back together as I had to cut it apart to get inside. probably a little spot weld will do it.

it has to have a bell because in Alameda where the bike was from, you had to have a bell to get a bike license. there is a 1959  license with the bike  🙂


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## 1motime

Unless you are going stealth don't forget the badge!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I was thinking about putting on the badge last night but got sidetracked.


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I am at a standstill until I find 2 decent hoops to build my wheels from. I have 4 1950 wheels and none of the hoops are very good. 😖


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## SirMike1983

Not a lot of good choices for rims if you want to retain the original size. S6 Stainless would be my first choice, but are really, really hard to find.  Regular S6 isn't bad. S5 would be the third choice, but S6 is the better choice for a 1950 lightweight. Oddball types would also be an option, like the old Lobdell 599mm size, and the early unmarked Schwinn types from the 1940s, but your best bet is a decent set of S6 rims from a 1960s or 70s era bike. If your brakes will reach, you could go with a 590 size, like a set of old Sturmey Archer or Dunlop rims, then run a little bigger tire like a Schwable Delta Cruiser or Col de La Vie. I had a couple 1940s era New Worlds that needed wheels, and when I built them, I used regular steel S6 rims from the 1960s or 70s.


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## 1motime

The S6 rims are the best choice.  Flat top looks like early rim/  You can pick up a good wheel set from a later Schwinn lightweight.  These bikes are being parted out more lately.  Including some really nice ones.  For a reasonable price you can get original wheels that have never been apart with great chrome,  clean spokes, and original hubs.  Low mileage Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs that look the same as early.  The real plus is tires are available.  Kenda is the choice but they are OK.  Black, gumwall, and whitewall.  Tires can be a pain to get mounted correctly but it is worth it.  I did this on my 40 New World and it rode great!


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## 49autocycledeluxe

I will either find duplicate early 50's hoops or pick the best two and build wheels that have some bad spots in the chrome. if I were going with different hoops I'd get some newer aluminum ones and put modern 100 PSI tires on it. 🙂


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## razinhellcustomz

49autocycledeluxe said:


> I have torn the old rusty bell apart, and now it rings, I just have to figure out how I am going to put it back together as I had to cut it apart to get inside. probably a little spot weld will do it.
> 
> it has to have a bell because in Alameda where the bike was from, you had to have a bell to get a bike license. there is a 1959  license with the bike  🙂



Try a little J.B. Weld, that should take care of that..


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## 49autocycledeluxe

rode it today with 3 speed wheels from a much later ladies bike and added an NOS chain guard. still need to dial everything in.


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