# Morrow hubs--anybody with experience rebuilding them?



## jpromo (Aug 29, 2011)

I'm a firm believer in servicing hubs on every bike I pick up. I've been able to just dive head first into everything so I fully disassembled only to read later that it's much easier to leave this one section together.

Thus, adjusting the spring section (114, 116, 117, 120) of the Morrow has me kind of baffled. I tried a few different times but 116 kept extending too far and popping off of the axle shaft. I ultimately got it to work correctly by threading the two together as close as they allowed, which still left some room for the spring to compress. It feels fine running it in my hands but I was just wondering if there is any better way to go about this?

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## slick (Aug 29, 2011)

Agreed! I rebuild anything with grease on every bike I buy as well. As far as the Morrow hubs go, They honestly scare me. I have 2 in bikes that work good that I never want to take apart because of the horror stories I have heard. New Departures are easy but the morrow??? Sombody ease my pain as well please!


----------



## jpromo (Aug 30, 2011)

Well that's not the kind of comforting answer I was hoping for  I guess I'll just ride it not in traffic and see if the braking holds up. It seems like a great design inside there, just one finesse adjustment.

My next option is to rip apart a second that I have in my parts pile. Somebody has to have cracked into one of these, though.


----------



## photosbymark (Aug 30, 2011)

They might have cracked into them, but it doesn't necessarily mean they got it back together  :eek:


----------



## Dave K (Oct 25, 2011)

Picked up a bike with a 1946 morrow hub that free wheels in both directions and does not spin the wheel or engage the brake.   

Is this a typical problem with these hubs?  If so how do I fix it?

Thanks

Dave


----------



## PCHiggin (Oct 26, 2011)

*Service Manual*

A member here had the above,I requested to buy a copy but got no response.I'd just keep my eye on ebay and bid to win.I serviced my friends Morrow and although they are un necessarily more complicated than the others,they aren't bad to work on.Think how the power must be transferred through it and its more clear how the parts work and go together.He had a broken spring from caked grease.


----------



## Gordon (Oct 26, 2011)

*Morrow hub*

This may help:

http://www.nemontel.net/~gbradbury/morrow.pdf


----------



## Talewinds (Oct 26, 2011)

jpromo said:


> I ultimately got it to work correctly by threading the two together as close as they allowed, which still left some room for the spring to compress.




I was in the same boat. At first I was thinking "Surely you don't thread these pieces together with the spring compressed in between." Sure enough, after asking here at CABE, that's what you do. Mine runs fine. :eek:


----------



## PCHiggin (Oct 26, 2011)

*What Book Is That?*



Gordon said:


> This may help:
> 
> http://www.nemontel.net/~gbradbury/morrow.pdf




Hi Gordon,Whats the title,I'll try to get it


----------



## Gordon (Oct 26, 2011)

*hub book*

The book is "Bicycle Owners Complete Handbook" by Steve Kraynick and published by Floyd Clymer. It is a great reference book and most helpful when working on old coaster brake hubs. I found my copy on ebay. I think Clymer published a lot of "fix it yourself" books. From the illustrations I'd guess this is from the late 40's or early 50's.


----------



## Gordon (Oct 26, 2011)

*hub book*

PCHiggin - you just missed a copy that sold for $9.99 on ebay last Sunday. Gives you a good photo of the cover though so you know which one you are looking for.


----------



## rustyspoke66 (Oct 26, 2011)

It looks like you might be able to get it at your local library.


----------



## old hotrod (Oct 26, 2011)

Not sure why there is mystery to these hubs...really simple with very few moving parts...I think the key areas are that the brake surface on the drum can wear out (cross lines disappear and takes a long throw to stop). The hub shell can also wear out (see long throw too) or the pressure spring breaks...I have rebuilt three in last couple of weeks and have no problems with any of them. In some ways, they are much easier to work on than the ND hubs...


----------



## 64 Pete (Jul 27, 2012)

Gordon said:


> This may help:
> 
> http://www.nemontel.net/~gbradbury/morrow.pdf




Found this in archives. Thanks Gordon!

Q.  When assembling the Morrow hub the above pages state to grease parts lightly except for "driving screw" which is oiled.
Does this mean braking surfaces are greased too?
On one hand it seems like they should be clean, on the other I'm pretty sure there's no way they would stay that way for very long.
Luckily my hub seems to be in decent shape. Just cleaning and lubing so far. 

Thanks
Pete


----------



## 1959firearrow (Sep 2, 2012)

The first hub I ever tore into was morrow, anyways they are very simple to work on the first time I messed up and greased everything including the braking components. Which leg to normal forward motion but freewheeling brakes. I just grease(standard automotive bearing grease) the bearings and races now and have ample stopping power. No need to  be afraid to take these apart just make sure you have a clean surface to work on with plenty room some you can lay the parts out according to how they came out if you don't happen to have access to these handy dandy blown apart views.


----------



## bike (Sep 2, 2012)

*Great info!*



Gordon said:


> This may help:
> 
> http://www.nemontel.net/~gbradbury/morrow.pdf




Thanks Gordon!!!!!


----------

