# Can I prime and paint over light oxidization?



## Buster1 (Jun 10, 2012)

I'm prepping my Prewar Elgin for paint.  Just finishing up bead-blasting and sanding.  Though there is still some light surface oxidization and such...no rust.  More like "color" or "orange hue" than oxidization really.

Is this okay to prime over and do a professional paint job?  Or does the metal need to be perfect?  I am not concerned with ripples or waves as I'll be doing multiple coats and wet-sanding.  I am more concerned about any of the new paint being ruined later in life from underlying oxidization.


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## redline1968 (Jun 10, 2012)

that orange hue is rust. you will need to treat it with a conditioner. ask the auto paint store for some advice.  otherwise you will have blistered paint down the line and will be a very unhappy ending to a lot of work.


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## MagicRat (Jun 10, 2012)

A paint job is only as good as the preperation...and that starts at the base.

NO RUST.It will creep through.

Bead blast it again. Prime it then hit the pits with automotive spot putty.

Sand it like you love it.

It about takes the Patience of a Saint,but its worth it.

My Silent Grey Fellow was a rusty crusty mess once.

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3996&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=1907+harley


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## redline1968 (Jun 11, 2012)

spot putty?  no... that cr--p is for paint chips not filler for dents.   that is bad bad bad body work and no one should use it for anything other small paint chip repair or pin holes in the primer.. please just learn to use filler its not hard and will do a good job and hold up great.  i can't imagine how many rare bikes out there that has been "repaired" improperly and scares me when i look at one to buy.  please learn to use the right products . its a good way to save you greif in the long run and add value to the project your working on.


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## BrentP (Jun 11, 2012)

In areas I think might be suspect after bead blasting, I use a rust converter first before priming.  It will stabilize any rust that's hidden in pits or that you don't notice.  Once it has cured, sand it at apply your primer.  Personally, I always use a thicker filling primer and apply three coats with a 600 grit sand in between.  The end result is a perfectly smooth surface with all the minor imperfections filled in.


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## Rambler (Jun 12, 2012)

Buster1 said:


> I'm prepping my Prewar Elgin for paint.  Just finishing up bead-blasting and sanding.  Though there is still some light surface oxidization and such...no rust.  More like "color" or "orange hue" than oxidization really.
> 
> Is this okay to prime over and do a professional paint job?  Or does the metal need to be perfect?  I am not concerned with ripples or waves as I'll be doing multiple coats and wet-sanding.  I am more concerned about any of the new paint being ruined later in life from underlying oxidization.




This is what I use and works very well for exactly the situation you describe. I use it on any bare metal before painting cars, bicycles, or whatever...
METAL PREP - available most anywhere automotive paint supplies are sold.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/metalprep.php

I have never used this product however I believe it would work similarly:
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-afterblast.html


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## slick (Jun 13, 2012)

I would sand blast that frame. The primer needs something to bite into. If not it will peel off. The bead blast is ok but very smooth in my opinion to prime over. I have done a lot of resto's and sandblast every single one. Never had an issue unless your sandblast guy is an idiot and gets it too hot and warps the tins. I've used a few morons in my day that have ruined parts by warping them, then i had to go back, shrink, straighten etc... Anyway, sandblast it to remove that rust, grind the areas with 36 grit on a die grinder a bit to ruff it up for bondo where your dents are, sand away, and use a primer that sticks to bare metal as well as bondo. I sand between every coat of primer, etc.. I have never had a problem with lifting, rust creeping through, or peeling etc.. I've been doing classic car restoration for the past 15 or so years. Try it out.


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