# 1938 Motorbike Standard Fork



## PCHiggin (Dec 25, 2010)

Hi, Is that round area underneath the fork,the area just behind the fender screw hole, a cap or the casting? I need to remove  a rusty wedge and thought I could pop out a cap,but after removing the paint I think it might be all one casting. What do you think? Thanks.

Pat


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## ratdaddy (Dec 26, 2010)

Have you tried a slide hammer to try to remove it


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## PCHiggin (Dec 26, 2010)

ratdaddy said:


> Have you tried a slide hammer to try to remove it




Well,As I wrote,There might not be anything to remove,it looks like a cap but might just be a shape in the casting.Hey Mark or the other pre war guys.Litte help here?
I'm also curious to know if the key will come out in either position of the lock. Thanks.

Pat


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## redline1968 (Dec 26, 2010)

only when its locked in place the key comes out. all forks have the same casting.  just when it was orderd with the lock it was machiened out to use it.


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## BWbiker (Jan 5, 2011)

*'38 Motorbike Forks..*

It seems like there is "failure to communicate" on your question, or I am confused (not surprising). Either way I thought attaching some pics would help. I took "standard fork" as "locking truss rod" because you mentioned a possible cap and said "behnd the fender mount". 
If you have the non locking truss rod fork on the left there is no cap, just a brazed in mounting tab. The one in the middle is a locking truss rod fork and I wire brushed off the paint so you can see the plated cap over the locking mechanism. The cap is pressed in. The one on the right is a highly abused locking truss rod fork which I pryed the cap off with a tiny flat blade screwdriver to remove the lock mechanism. I hope this helps! Brad


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## markivpedalpusher (Jan 5, 2011)

Tim Brandt has great step by step instructions for removing the hubbard plug and replacing your cyclelock. Check it out on his site. It's under misc, cyclelock replacement. 

http://bicyclechronicles.com


Good Stuff!


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## BWbiker (Jan 5, 2011)

By coaxing the plug out you don't have to drill it and you can file and hand sand the marks off and re-use it. You can swedge the plug back in place with a small punch. Or you can see if Bob U. has any NOS  plugs kicking around! Brad


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## PCHiggin (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks guys,Great info. I thought it was a cap but it's been primed/painted so I really couldn't tell and didn't want to ruin anything. Can I get to the wedge once the cap is off? It's stuck with a broken bolt and that's the main reason for removing the cap.

Pat


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## cyclingday (Jan 6, 2011)

I think that the lock mechanism is in a seperate cavity from the stem bolt wedge, so removing the plug on the bottom of the fork won't get you anywhere, unless you want to service the lock mechanism. Try leaving the steerer tube portion with the frozen wedge submersed in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks them  tap it down with a punch to break it loose, and then with luck, hopefully it with come out.
The worst case scenario would be to drive it all the way down to the bottom of the steerer tube, so that you could still mount a new stem just above it.
 I have taken some old bikes apart and discovered that this had been done.


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## BWbiker (Jan 6, 2011)

Cyclingday is right, there is a cap on the inside of the tube that seals off the locking mechanism. I think it is brazed in. Either way its under the wedge. After soaking it as suggested clean the interior of the tube with a wire bottle brush and if the wedge doesn't have a broken bolt in it is there a chance you could get it out. Thread an extra long bolt of the correct thread into the wedge - clamp the end of the bolt in a vise and tap on the housing on above the fork leg with a shot filled mallet to work the wedge out. Don't strike it too hard or you will distort housing.


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