# Best Technique To Remove Paint



## TheDXjedi

i am trying to find the best way to remove spray paint and save the original paint underneath..any help is greatly appreciated


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## the tinker

Try "Goof -Off "  first. lacquer thinner too if you have some. wash it on small area with a brush back and forth. You will know immediately if either will work.
Easy off extra strength oven cleaner. Spray on in a "test " area . Don't leave on long and wash off with water.
Last resort a stripper but ......it could take the original graphics and maybe the base paint with it. I like that new "orange" inviormently friendly stuff as it is not as caustic as Parks.
I am sure others will chime in here as to their favorites.  I like Goof Off  but it will not work on all paints.


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## STIKSHIFTER

Factory paint is lacquer based because it dried fast and didn't slow down production.  Most do-it-yourselfers use enamel spray paint.  So, I would try mineral spirits or paint thinner before using any of the "hotter" solvents.  I'm afraid Goof-Off and lacquer thinner are going to take you down to bare metal.  Personally, I've had no luck at all with the so called Evo-Safe chemicals.


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## Pantmaker

I start every overpaint removal with hot water from the tap and xXxX steel wool. I  also use Windex and the same steel wool...avoid the hotter stuff.  3m rubbing compound can also ease stubborn paint and get it moving. Trick is no matter what your poison... always go slow.


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## GTs58

STIKSHIFTER said:


> *Factory paint is lacquer based* because it dried fast and didn't slow down production.  Most do-it-yourselfers use enamel spray paint.  So, I would try mineral spirits or paint thinner before using any of the "hotter" solvents.  I'm afraid Goof-Off and lacquer thinner are going to take you down to bare metal.  Personally, I've had no luck at all with the so called Evo-Safe chemicals.




Depends on the era and the manufacturer. Most factory paint was an enamel.


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## Duck

the tinker said:


> Try ... lacquer thinner too if you have some. wash it on small area with a brush back and forth.



 This is bad advice; You'll make a sticky mess of all the paint it comes into contact with- Lacquer thinner is much too "hot" for enamels.


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## Bikeman 86

I'm looking to remove some spray paint my self from this bike as you can see the paint is already flaking off whats the best step to take first


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## 2jakes

As you have noticed...there are many ways to remove the spray paint and hopefully save the original color.

I tried chemical-strip in small amounts with a brush and
immediately wiped it off with a rag. No sanding of any kind.

This Columbia had been “spray-painted” green.







I took a photo when there was still traces of the green.
I applied the strip in small amounts and left it on for a very
short period.
Once the green was removed, I immediately used soap and water
to stop the chemical from further penetrating into the original paint.

I’m not saying this will work for you.
Only what worked for me.

 And what ever you try....don’t sand at all.


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## rollfaster

My vote is not to buy house or spray paint bikes. This one is a lost cause now because some idiot used miultiple coats of house paint, I used Goof Off and a scotch brite pad very lightly, take was so incredibly caked up. I was gentle but started seeing bare metal. This kid even painted the bars, truss rods, wheels, you name it. No more for me, OG paint bikes only!


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## 2jakes

"I will never buy a house or spray painted Bluebird bike that is available and affordable."

*Said no one on the forum! *


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## rollfaster

2jakes said:


> "I will never buy a house or spray painted Bluebird bike that is available and affordable."
> 
> *Said no one on the forum! *



Acceptions can be made!


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## Bikeman 86

rollfaster said:


> View attachment 659242 View attachment 659240 View attachment 659241 View attachment 659243 View attachment 659244 View attachment 659245 My vote is not to buy house or spray paint bikes. This one is a lost cause now because some idiot used miultiple coats of house paint, I used Goof Off and a scotch brite pad very lightly, take was so incredibly caked up. I was gentle but started seeing bare metal. This kid even painted the bars, truss rods, wheels, you name it. No more for me, OG paint bikes only!



It was given to us my grandfather is often given bikes because he takes ones that dont work missing wheel broken chain bent crank and fixes them up to ride-able condition were not trying for perfect just more attractive that red is really ugly and if its free were gonna take it no matter the paint usually i leave the over paint alone but its flaking off and the blue is much much more attractive thus will sell better when displayed out in front of our house.


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## Bikeman 86

2jakes said:


> And what ever you try....don’t sand at all



thanks i had considered wet/dry sand paper at first


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## 2jakes

Bikeman 86 said:


> thanks i had considered wet/dry sand paper at first





Takes time to remove only the top layer
of paint and not the original .

I did the chemical-strip as a last resort.
I was lucky that the original paint did not
come off.
 I don't recommend it because there’s no assurance that
it will work on all bikes.
Try the other techniques first so as not to
further damage the original paint.
Good Luck!


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## GTV

Old thread...
I’ve tried my hand at paint removal on a few old cars but not on a bike before. I used Citri-Strip mostly and had mixed results. I want to see what’s left of the original paint on my DX, I don’t have huge expectations (i think it’s mostly gone underneath) so I think it will be good practice if nothing else. I’m curious to know if there’s any new suggestions, what would you suggest starting with?
Old pic from when I first got it...


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## Miq

Duck said:


> This is bad advice; You'll make a sticky mess of all the paint it comes into contact with- Lacquer thinner is much too "hot" for enamels.




^^^THIS^^^ is bad advice.      Not trying to be offensive @Duck 

If you search around here, you will find countless stories (often w great pics) of the magic of Lacquer Thinner and 0000 Steel Wool for removing rattle can paint but preserving the original factory enamel paint beneath.

When I wanted to do it this year, I tried a few methods simultaneously to see who had "good" advice vs "bad" advice for my bike with it's particular rattle can red coating.  Of course YMMV.  I called it the Paint Remover Challenge.  Check it out.








As you know from doing cars, it is hours and hours of gently rubbing, while breathing toxic fumes.  Enjoy!


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## Andrew Gorman

I've had good luck using Goof Off Graffiti Remover for taking off a top layer of spray paint. Works quickly, an it's easy to use in stages- one application will usually let you know if there is something worth saving below.  It's a thick aerosol- spray it on, let it work for 10 minutes and wipe it off.  Lather, rinse and repeat.


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## Kickstand3

Miq said:


> ^^^THIS^^^ is bad advice.  Not trying to be offensive @Duck
> 
> If you search around here, you will find countless stories (often w great pics) of the magic of Lacquer Thinner and 0000 Steel Wool for removing rattle can paint but preserving the original factory enamel paint beneath.
> 
> When I wanted to do it this year, I tried a few methods simultaneously to see who had "good" advice vs "bad" advice for my bike with it's particular rattle can red coating. Of course YMMV. I called it the Paint Remover Challenge. Check it out.
> 
> View attachment 1095493
> View attachment 1095495
> 
> As you know from doing cars, it is hours and hours of gently rubbing, while breathing toxic fumes. Enjoy!




I’m with mike on this , you don’t want scrub with anything that can scratch. On heavy areas let a clean rag with thinner sit a little longer then move on . If you feel the original paint is getting tacky move along and come back maybe the next day or so . Keep rotating to a cleaner spot on your rag . Patients .......... slowly for sure.
I use Q Tips with a little thinner on final detail 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## piercer_99

I still say the best method is to pay someone else to do it.

Still waiting for the day I can afford to do that.


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## 39zep

My 2 cents...  I stumbled onto a product called "Krud Kutter" available at home depot. It is a water based graffiti removal product. I found that I could brush it on heavy (100%) then wait as the paint loosened, then come back with a 50% mix with water to carefully lift the paint. I used cotton pads, Q tips and a lot of patience. I could rinse with 100% water to stop the process. Problem is every situation is different. I got very lucky that it removed the overpaint and left the OG paint. Goof off HD is very aggressive and can roll right through your overpaint and OG paint in a heartbeat. Abrasives should be a last resort. Every situation is different, type of paint, did they sand/prep before hand. Experiment in small areas, be patient. It like those pyramid dig guys digging with small paint brushes.
Definitely worth a shot at finding a diamond in the ruff. My 2 cents...


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## A.S.BOLTNUT

This has always worked best for me , I pick it up at the local ACE hardware.


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## frank 81

Bead Blast then Powder coat!!!!!


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## bricycle

media blasting.


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## piercer_99

A.S.BOLTNUT said:


> This has always worked best for me , I pick it up at the local ACE hardware.
> 
> View attachment 1095677




except they stopped using MEK in it and it doesn't work as well now, the base isn't as hot of a formula, so what used to take one coat, now takes 4 or 5.


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