# Parting Is Such Great Sorrow......



## Sigh1961

I picked up this 71 Schwinn Breeze ladies bike last weekend.  Started tearing it down to use as a learning tool for cleaning and repairing these old Schwinns.  I used to wrench on my bikes back in the day, but that was a long time ago, and I was mostly chopping out sting rays and fixing stuff well enough to get them back on the road.  Now I want to learn about restoring and repacking bearings, all that fun stuff.  I am wondering if I should reassemble this bike, or just part it out?  There seems to be hundreds of these 70's women's cruisers out there and they don't sell for much.  I paid $25 for this one.  I am thinking I should use it as a learning tool, and then sell the individual parts.  What say you?


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## Dale Alan

Anyone can tear a bike a down.  You said you want to learn,here is your chance. You are not out much money if you damage anything.Service it and get it back on the road,maybe you will make a few bucks for your efforts.


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## CrazyDave

Not too rare or worth too much either way.   I don't think you'll offend many folks no matter what you do to it.  It is pretty clean though, I would probably put it back together and send it to a good home.


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## Schwinn499

All those parts are around in mass quantities, built it back up and sell it whole, saves the headache of shipping all those parts, and make some lady very happy with her new bike.


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## Sigh1961

I think I will put it back together.  Do you guys recommend getting a truing stand, or just taking the wheels to the local bike shop to be trued? And can I get replacement bearings for the crank and the head tube if these are too worn? Also wondering about getting the grips off the handle bars. Did they glue those on, or are they just really tight?


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## rusty.kirkpatrick

I use an old fork in a vice with a zip tie on each side. It's not too hard If you take your time. After a few wheels it gets easier. As far as bearings, if none of the balls are missing, I'd soak it in degreaser to clean em up then apply copious amounts of fresh grease and jam em back in.


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> I think I will put it back together.  Do you guys recommend getting a truing stand, or just taking the wheels to the local bike shop to be trued? And can I get replacement bearings for the crank and the head tube if these are too worn?




Those wheels stay pretty true from my experience. If anything just a little adjustment once you get them on the frame, using the frame as your guide.

Replacement bearing can be found anywhere bearings are sold, just pop out the old ones from the retainer and re-install the new ones.

Although perfectly trued wheels and new shiny bearings are a great, they are often not necessary in cases as these.


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## Sigh1961

Schwinn499 said:


> Those wheels stay pretty true from my experience. If anything just a little adjustment once you get them on the frame, using the frame as your guide.
> 
> Replacement bearing can be found anywhere bearings are sold, just pop out the old ones from the retainer and re-install the new ones.
> 
> Although perfectly trued wheels and new shiny bearings are a great, they are often not necessary in cases as these.



Again, thinking of it as practice more than anything else.  I would much rather make mistakes on this $25 dollar bike than on the more expensive ones.  You are right about the wheels, they seemed pretty good when I gave them a spin on the frame.  I will probably just clean everything and reassemble it.  The S seat is shot, looks like rats or mice have had a go at it, so I will just toss that and buy a cheap aftermarket seat for it.


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## Sigh1961

Here are the wheels, cleaned and polished.  I used WD40 and a brass bristle brush to clean the rust, then polished with chrome polish. I got a little carried away and got some WD40 on the rim tape inside the rim.  Is there somewhere I can buy replacement tape?  Also, I noticed that the Sturmey Archer three speed hub was throwing copious amounts of oil all over the back spokes.  Could that be from someone over oiling the hub, or is there some sort of seal that I should be replacing?  I don't really want to get into tearing the hub down if I can help it, but I also want to keep the rims clean.  Finally, what type of grease do you recommend for the front bearings? White lithium, regular old grease?


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## SirMike1983

The grease in the bearings acts as a seal to reduce oil loss. It is never 100%, but it sounds like you have no grease in the bearings. This is not as bad as it sounds. The AW can run on nothing but oil, including in the bearings. However, long-term, it's better to have grease in the bearings and oil in the innards. Running on just oil is messy.


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## Sigh1961

SirMike1983 said:


> The grease in the bearings acts as a seal to reduce oil loss. It is never 100%, but it sounds like you have no grease in the bearings. This is not as bad as it sounds. The AW can run on nothing but oil, including in the bearings. However, long-term, it's better to have grease in the bearings and oil in the innards. Running on just oil is messy.



it looks like there is a lock nut on top of the rear cog that has 3 little holes in it that requires a special wrench.  Can anyone tell me the name of that wrench and where I can get it? Or maybe slots is a better description.  Someone tell me that I don't have to disassemble the entire insides of the hub in order to grease the bearings. I saw a post somewhere about what kind of oil to use in the hub, but I don't remember where.  I think they said 3in1 in the blue can?  Also, more parts cleaned and ready to go back on the bike:


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> it looks like there is a lock nut on top of the rear cog that has 3 little holes in it that requires a special wrench.  Can anyone tell me the name of that wrench and where I can get it? Or maybe slots is a better description.  Someone tell me that I don't have to disassemble the entire insides of the hub in order to grease the bearings. I saw a post somewhere about what kind of oil to use in the hub, but I don't remember where.  I think they said 3in1 in the blue can?  Also, more parts cleaned and ready to go back on the bike:View attachment 352040



NO 3 IN 1!!

Use heavy weight motor oil, and you dont need much. Put a little on the brake pivots also, youll be happy you did come adjustment time.

Regular grease works fine, ive herd marine grease works good too, gonna try that myself next bucket.

The cog comes off with a snap ring. The slots are what the cogs slip over to engage the hub.


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## Sigh1961

more parts clean and polished.  Fork and crank are off, still need to take off the chain and get it soaking.  At the rate I'm going, it looks like wd40 by the gallon is a good investment.  Going to take apart the SA 3 speed hub today and regrease the bearings.  The bearings in the crank and head tube seem to be somewhat flattened and don't roll well in the retainer.  anyone know what size I should be looking for offhand?


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## Sigh1961

Chain is off and soaking, took apart the rear hub and greased the bearings. Front wheel is greased and reassembled. Trying to decide if I am going to buy new tires or reuse the ones that were on it.  They have good tread, but there is some minor cracking on the sidewalls. it still has the original schwinn tubes and they were holding air, so going to reuse those, even if I have to patch them. Going out to Tractor Supply to see if they have the bearings I need for the fork and crank.  If everything goes according to plan, I should be able to get it back together tomorrow after work.


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## Dale Alan

Looking good,cleaning up nicely .


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## CrazyDave

Any decent bike shop or large hardware outlet should have the bearings you need, just pop em out of the race and pop new in.  Should be very cheap!


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## rustjunkie

New tires would likely make for a more convincing test-ride when selling.
Might think about getting some of this for the chain too:


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## SirMike1983

3 in 1 blue is the small bottle with the little picture of the motor. It is 20 weight oil and a match for the original Sturmey machine oil. 

3 in 1 black/red is their general purpose and should be avoided because it congeals over time in the hub.

Medium weight sae motor oil can work too. 



Sigh1961 said:


> it looks like there is a lock nut on top of the rear cog that has 3 little holes in it that requires a special wrench.  Can anyone tell me the name of that wrench and where I can get it? Or maybe slots is a better description.  Someone tell me that I don't have to disassemble the entire insides of the hub in order to grease the bearings. I saw a post somewhere about what kind of oil to use in the hub, but I don't remember where.  I think they said 3in1 in the blue can?  Also, more parts cleaned and ready to go back on the bike:View attachment 352040


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## Schwinn499

SirMike1983 said:


> 3 in 1 blue is the small bottle with the little picture of the motor. It is 20 weight oil and a match for the original Sturmey machine oil.
> 
> 3 in 1 black/red is their general purpose and should be avoided because it congeals over time in the hub.
> 
> Medium weight sae motor oil can work too.



Hmmm...learned something new today.

I know the red one is no bueno...didnt know about this blue 3 in 1....


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## SirMike1983

Schwinn499 said:


> Hmmm...learned something new today.
> 
> I know the red one is no bueno...didnt know about this blue 3 in 1....




Part of it is that everyone seems to carry the red and only some places the blue. I can get the blue at Lowe's but not at Home Depot near me. I actually don't see much point to the red anymore. It seems like anything the red can do, the blue can also do, but without turning to a gummy mess. I guess the red is cheaper (?) usually.


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## Sigh1961

CrazyDave said:


> Any decent bike shop or large hardware outlet should have the bearings you need, just pop em out of the race and pop new in.  Should be very cheap!



you would think so,wouldn't you? I went to Lowes, Tractor Supply and Advanced Auto, no one carries ball bearings.  There is a local bike shop in town, but he looks down his nose at anything that isn't less than 15 pounds and over $1000.00. I went in there when I got my three speed to look for a new shift lever, and he looked at my bike, said "they don't make those anymore" and walked away.  So, I guess I am ordering online.


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## Sigh1961

rustjunkie said:


> New tires would likely make for a more convincing test-ride when selling.
> Might think about getting some of this for the chain too:



I will look into that.  After scrubbing caked on grease off the chain, I certainly don't want to gum it up again.


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## Eric Amlie

I've switched over to using Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic in my Sturmey-Archer hubs. A $5 quart of it should last me more than my lifetime.
If you're near any reasonably large city, I would check the phone book for bearing supply companies. You should be able to buy any bearings you want in Grade 25 for reasonably cheap. These will be better than the originals. Otherwise, as you said, you should be able to find them online.


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## Sigh1961

Eric Amlie said:


> I've switched over to using Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic in my Sturmey-Archer hubs. A $5 quart of it should last me more than my lifetime.
> If you're near any reasonably large city, I would check the phone book for bearing supply companies. You should be able to buy any bearings you want in Grade 25 for reasonably cheap. These will be better than the originals. Otherwise, as you said, you should be able to find them online.



I live in a clearing surrounded by cornfields.  Closest large city is Chicago, about three hours north of me.  I was hoping to find them today so I could start putting it back together tomorrow, but it looks like that isn't going to happen.  I did find myself a nice little oil can with a flexible spout.  It seems to pump about a tablespoon of oil with each squirt.  Just one or two squirts should be enough, right?


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## Eric Amlie

Sigh1961 said:


> Just one or two squirts should be enough, right?



Yes, probably two squirts to start with, then maybe a few drops per month if you're riding it regularly.
If you start getting oil leaking out the ends of the hub, throttle back on the lube, you're adding too much.
You can tell the state of the lubrication by the ticking of the pawls in the hub. If they start getting too "bright" and loud, you need a little oil.


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## Dale Alan

I have been using the blue container 3 in one oil for years,no gumming so far.I am not sure where I heard of using it but I remember the reasoning was that it was designed to be non-gumming for use in electrical motors and pneumatic tools.

Have you popped the bearings from their cages to see if they are damaged or just dirty. ? If not a thorough cleaning may be all you need . Bearings are cheap and hard to find locally(at least around here) so I stock up on each size .Amazing how many a person can go through.


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## Sigh1961

Dale Alan said:


> I have been using the blue container 3 in one oil for years,no gumming so far.I am not sure where I heard of using it but I remember the reasoning was that it was designed to be non-gumming for use in electrical motors and pneumatic tools.
> 
> Have you popped the bearings from their cages to see if they are damaged or just dirty. ? If not a thorough cleaning may be all you need . Bearings are cheap and hard to find locally(at least around here) so I stock up on each size .Amazing how many a person can go through.



Yeah, I checked them pretty closely.  Some of the head tube bearings are flattened, and the crank bearings are rust pitted. I think they definitely need replaced. Whatever grease was once in there was long gone, and those bearing were running dry for a long time.


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## Dale Alan

Ok,bearings are shot .Always good to replace them if you can anyways . Amazon and ebay have vendors that sell loose bearings and caged . If you can find American,German,etc. you are good to go .


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## SirMike1983

It may have been Sheldon Brown. I asked him about 3 in 1 a number of years ago and he mentioned the old Sturmey oil was essentially light machine oil around 20 weight. He also also talked about the black/red 3 in 1 having a perishable component and congealing, but the blue being a good match for the Sturmey.

Around that time, I ran a comparison over a 1 year period of two hubs and sure enough when I opened the black/red hub, gunk in the innards. The blue was clean and oiled.




Dale Alan said:


> I have been using the blue container 3 in one oil for years,no gumming so far.I am not sure where I heard of using it but I remember the reasoning was that it was designed to be non-gumming for use in electrical motors and pneumatic tools.
> 
> Have you popped the bearings from their cages to see if they are damaged or just dirty. ? If not a thorough cleaning may be all you need . Bearings are cheap and hard to find locally(at least around here) so I stock up on each size .Amazing how many a person can go through.


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## Dale Alan

You are correct Mike ,it was Sheldon . I remember the part about the black/red had an additive that would congeal over time. I have put the red/black in clear syringe oilers and have noticed it gets darker within a week or so .Not sure if it is UV or oxygen but something effects it quite quickly...not sure if that has anything to do with congealing though.


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## GTs58

The product 3 in 1 has been around for years gumming up whatever it's used on. It was another "snake oil" product used by many back in the day. It was advertised as a lubricant that cleaned. How does a petroleum product with lighter fluid act as a decent lubricant? My Dad used it in his old electric motor on his grinder and the 3 in 1 would gum up so another shot of the this oil/_cleaner_ was needed.  Now WD-40 is the owner and they have since introduced other 3 in 1 products. 

Look at the MSDS sheet for the original (Red/Black) multipurpose oil.


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## Dale Alan

Huh ?


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## Sigh1961

Ok, so the bike is stripped and cleaned, except for the frame.  I am having trouble figuring out how to get the chrome pieces off of the head tube so I can polish them up.  I assume they unscrew, but I don't want to mar them up with channel locks.  I have been spraying the inside of the tube with wd40 hoping the rust will loosen up.  Any suggestions for getting these off?  I am also looking for a source for grey brake cables and a new shifter cable the Sturmey Archer three speed shifter.  I looked on eBay to see if I could find NOS cables, but I really don't know what size/part number I am looking for.  I would appreciate any feedback you guys can give me.


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## Metacortex

To remove the cups all you need is a punch (or screwdriver) and a hammer:





A tool like this can make it easier, but I've removed quite a few headsets and don't have one of these (yet

[video]


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## Sigh1961

Metacortex said:


> To remove the cups all you need is a punch (or screwdriver) and a hammer:




Cool.  Didn't realize they were compression fitted.  Thanks for the tip!


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## rustjunkie

this might come in handy:

http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/schwinn-service-manual-volume-1.81415/

http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/schwinn-service-manual-volume-2.81579/


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## Schwinn499

Just clean them on the frame. No fuss


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## Dale Alan

You can buy gray housing by the foot or as a housing/cable kit on ebay .Jagwire is inexpensive and pretty good quality . If you plan on doing numerous bikes it pays to buy in bulk ,especially if you will be selling them. All the little stuff adds up as I am sure you are finding out. By the time you  put tires/tubes,cables/housing,grips/tape,etc. a $25 bike is soon a $ 100 bike.


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> I am also looking for a source for grey brake cables and a new shifter cable the Sturmey Archer three speed shifter.  I looked on eBay to see if I could find NOS cables, but I really don't know what size/part number I am looking for.  I would appreciate any feedback you guys can give me.



 Whats wrong with the original housing?


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> I am also looking for a source for grey brake cables and a new shifter cable the Sturmey Archer three speed shifter.  I looked on eBay to see if I could find NOS cables, but I really don't know what size/part number I am looking for.  I would appreciate any feedback you guys can give me.



 Whats wrong with the original housing?


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> I am also looking for a source for grey brake cables and a new shifter cable the Sturmey Archer three speed shifter.  I looked on eBay to see if I could find NOS cables, but I really don't know what size/part number I am looking for.  I would appreciate any feedback you guys can give me.



 Whats wrong with the original housing?


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## Dale Alan

For shifter cables you have options.Here are pics of a universal cable option .This makes it simple  and no need to worry about the right length. You can also use any color housing you choose.


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## Sigh1961

Schwinn499 said:


> Whats wrong with the original housing?



Original housing is cracked and brittle.  I don't think it is salvageable.


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## Sigh1961

Dale Alan said:


> For shifter cables you have options.Here are pics of a universal cable option .This makes it simple  and no need to worry about the right length. You can also use any color housing you choose.
> 
> View attachment 353155 View attachment 353156 View attachment 353157 View attachment 353158



That looks like it would work.


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## Sigh1961

ok, update.  I found a NOS SA 3 speed cable on eBay and that is on the way.  I went to Niagra Cycle, and it looks like they have Jagwire grey housing in 50 ft rolls.  The way I am buying bikes, I am going to need it.  What I didn't see is the end caps/ferrels that go on the ends of the cables.  And I am assuming I need a special tool to crimp those on the housing?  I also found loose bearings on another site, but I have no idea what size to order.  1/4, 5/16?  I don't have a micrometer to measure the bearings with, so I wondered if anyone knew offhand what size I need? I read somewhere that you can just seat loose bearings into the race with grease and skip the cages.  The bearings in the crank are 9 bearings in a 1 3/4" cage, and the head bearings are 15 bearings in a 1 1/2" cage. Just measuring with a tape measure, they seem to be 1/4" and 1/8" respectively.  Does that sound right?  Finally, there is a round tube on the frame that the wire for the shifter runs through.  When I took it out, there was a plastic sleeve with a slot in it that kept the wire from rubbing on the frame.  When it came out, it split in half.  Does anyone know what that piece is called, and has anyone had to replace one of these? I looked all over, and I haven't seen anything like it.


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## 56 Vette

Sigh1961 said:


> I think I will put it back together.  Do you guys recommend getting a truing stand, or just taking the wheels to the local bike shop to be trued? And can I get replacement bearings for the crank and the head tube if these are too worn? Also wondering about getting the grips off the handle bars. Did they glue those on, or are they just really tight?



Wow, looks like the bug bit you pretty bad! Lol. It is a great feeling getting these old bikes back on the road. It hit me pretty hard too, and I wouldn't change a thing!! If you would like a truing stand, pm me your address and I'll send you the one I started out with, shipping cost and it's yours. It's a cheaper model I bought at Memory Lane, but works pretty good, I've had 30 plus wheels through it, even just to check them. Plus it's a good feeling making one spin true with a little time and patience, there are several good YouTube videos on how to do it. I got a pretty good deal on a Park truing stand and am not using this one. Have a great one and enjoy those

 bikes!! Joe


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## Sigh1961

56 Vette said:


> Wow, looks like the bug bit you pretty bad! Lol. It is a great feeling getting these old bikes back on the road. It hit me pretty hard too, and I wouldn't change a thing!! If you would like a truing stand, pm me your address and I'll send you the one I started out with, shipping cost and it's yours. It's a cheaper model I bought at Memory Lane, but works pretty good, I've had 30 plus wheels through it, even just to check them. Plus it's a good feeling making one spin true with a little time and patience, there are several good YouTube videos on how to do it. I got a pretty good deal on a Park truing stand and am not using this one. Have a great one and enjoy thoseView attachment 353727 bikes!! Joe



PM sent!  Thank you so much!


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## Sigh1961

Here is the thing I am looking for:


 
I don't need the clamp, just the sleeve that goes inside it.


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## SirMike1983

Called a fulcrum sleeve. They come in metal and plastic. The metal is better, but costs more.


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## Sigh1961

SirMike1983 said:


> Called a fulcrum sleeve. They come in metal and plastic. The metal is better, but costs more.



Thank you.  The metal ones are 16.95 each, or I can get ten plastic ones for 9.89.  I just didn't want to buy the whole clamp to get one fulcrum sleeve.  My Niagra Cycle order just keeps getting bigger.


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## SirMike1983

For this bike, the plastic should be fine. I save the metal ones for really nice, earlier stuff or stuff with specialty hubs.


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## rustjunkie

what's your address?


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## juanitasmith13

Sigh1961 said:


> I live in a clearing surrounded by cornfields.  Closest large city is Chicago, about three hours north of me.  I was hoping to find them today so I could start putting it back together tomorrow, but it looks like that isn't going to happen.  I did find myself a nice little oil can with a flexible spout.  It seems to pump about a tablespoon of oil with each squirt.  Just one or two squirts should be enough, right?




All bearings you described have a manufacture's name and a part number, also, usually USA. Convo me these names and numbers... I'm in Peoria area; we have about three bearing stores. Need your snail mail, too. Bike dealers are high; and only have these if they are ancient dealers and they are NOS.


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## juanitasmith13

Sigh1961 said:


> ok, update.  I found a NOS SA 3 speed cable on eBay and that is on the way.  I went to Niagra Cycle, and it looks like they have Jagwire grey housing in 50 ft rolls.  The way I am buying bikes, I am going to need it.  What I didn't see is the end caps/ferrels that go on the ends of the cables.  And I am assuming I need a special tool to crimp those on the housing?  I also found loose bearings on another site, but I have no idea what size to order.  1/4, 5/16?  I don't have a micrometer to measure the bearings with, so I wondered if anyone knew offhand what size I need? I read somewhere that you can just seat loose bearings into the race with grease and skip the cages.  The bearings in the crank are 9 bearings in a 1 3/4" cage, and the head bearings are 15 bearings in a 1 1/2" cage. Just measuring with a tape measure, they seem to be 1/4" and 1/8" respectively.  Does that sound right?  Finally, there is a round tube on the frame that the wire for the shifter runs through.  When I took it out, there was a plastic sleeve with a slot in it that kept the wire from rubbing on the frame.  When it came out, it split in half.  Does anyone know what that piece is called, and has anyone had to replace one of these? I looked all over, and I haven't seen anything like it.




You can pop one ball out of each cage... smaller / larger; go to an ACE hardware, Tractor Supply / Farm and Fleet, or similar competitor... they have ball bearings... all sizes. You don't need to measure with .000"; you will see that the balls are easily sized if you have one in hand.


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## Sigh1961

juanitasmith13 said:


> All bearings you described have a manufacture's name and a part number, also, usually USA. Convo me these names and numbers... I'm in Peoria area; we have about three bearing stores. Need your snail mail, too. Bike dealers are high; and only have these if they are ancient dealers and they are NOS.



The head bearing says "Schwinn 2557AH", and the crank bearing says "Schwinn Natl 6178A"


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## juanitasmith13

Sigh1961 said:


> Original housing is cracked and brittle.  I don't think it is salvageable.




 I often get Electrical shrink tubes... The OG cable is on my Breeze.... I worked WD 40 into it until it ran out the other end. There seemed to be no groove worn internally; only the rubber cover was hard and cracked. I put shrink tube over the OG housing to seal where broken so water could not get in... applied heat with a hair dryer....


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## rustjunkie

a great inexpensive tool:



 
http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-bearing-and-cotter-gauge-sbc-1


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## juanitasmith13

Sigh1961 said:


> The head bearing says "Schwinn 2557AH", and the crank bearing says "Schwinn Natl 6178A"




Cool ... convo me your USPS address... I'll send some bearings. pappy


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## Adamtinkerer

Sigh, you've only been here for 22 days, and already developed a severe case of bike fever! There's no known cure, so sit back, and enjoy the wrenching!! Kudos for reviving a bike that a jaded collector wouldn't look twice at!!


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## Sigh1961

Well, I ended up with the breeze because the seller wanted me to take both. I was really after the Suburban, but for $25, I figured "what the hell". I looked at it as a way to learn without too much risk. Now that I have been working on it, I have come to appreciate its simplicity.   Once I get it done, I will gift it to my sister.


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## Sigh1961

Well, it took longer than anticipated, but here she is:



 

 

 
Still waiting for brake pads and a seat cover. Also have to look for a new seat bolt. Special thanks to rustjunkie and juanitesmith13 for help with parts.


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## Dale Alan

Excellent,cleaned up nicely.


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## SirMike1983

It almost always takes longer than expected. I just estimate how long I think a project will take, then double it.


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## momo608

I find it much more efficient and cost effective to do bikes 2, 3 or 4 at a time. I do groups of parts, hubs, brake calipers, derailleurs etc etc. polishing, cleaning re-greasing axles and so forth. Putting together sub assemblies like handlebars with brake levers, and stems attached.  Cranksets, chainrings, pedals. Each bike laid out as the refurbished components come together so I can see what's missing or needs more work. You get the idea.

You also save money buying parts in bulk like tires, tubes, cables, cable housings etc etc. 

The paint jobs I do are definitely cheaper the more bikes I do at the same time, but I like two at a time for this even if they're different colors.


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