# G519 Tribute Build



## GPWPAT (Mar 18, 2018)

Last year while showing my G-503 (jeep) at an airshow. I was getting annoyed that all we have in our group is Jeeps. And one half track. I would love to own more vehicles and bigger ones. But I dont have the space yet. So I thought I would try to find or build a G-519. Besides it would give me faster transport at airshows and add some viriety to our display. I purchased a bicycle on eBay that looked correct, I got lucky. The Frame turned out to be a 1941 Westfield Columbia. I started piecing together as many parts as I could  find on here and eBay. So far I think it looks just about right. The Truss rods are from a Women’s Huffman. I need to cut them down. But the arch and bolt are correct. The seat pan is in the wrong spot. I need to move the bolts. The seat frame is incorrect. I will weld up that slot and it will look pretty good. The sprocket is to small of a diameter but looks correct from 5’ away. Kickstand is correct. Handle bars are NOS. I purchased the fenders on eBay. They came with the correct un marked headlight. But they are from a road master and I need to replace the fender brackets. Just one thing on the fenders. They seem too sharp for a G519 I brought a bunch of pictures into CADD and I drafted up a shallower arc for the point on the gothic fenders. If anybody can post a picture of the end of fenders for me to reference before I start cutting. You can see my sharpie cut line on the back of the front fender. I have to get this pieced together in one month. I have an airshow at the local AFB and wish to debut there. I will be making a tag for it. My grandfather served in the Army Air Corps as a B-17 Mechanic and I wish to assign it to the base he was based at.
I know this will never be a real G519. But I plan on making it as close as I can. Until I find a real one that is.
Still looking for correct rims, hubs, also looking for a correct Columbia Fork and a Coffin style chainring. Oh and the tool bag. I have seen a few sell on EBay. I should have tried to get one of them. But I figured I need to worry about finishing this as is. Also can someone post a picture or dimensions of a tire pump? I am trying to figure out if a style currently available would pass a 5’ test.


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## Mercian (Mar 19, 2018)

hi GPWPAT,

Just to say that you don't need the coffin ring, unless that's what you really want.

The straightbar/coffin ring combo would be appropriate for G519 from approx Aug 1942 to around March 1943.

Most of the straight bar G519 had the sweetheart ring, from around March 1943 to the end of production, except the USMC bikes.

If you do change the chainwheel, I'd be interested in the old one.

The best known maker of pumps was Woodbridge Brass. The pump will be about 10.5 inches long, and it and the correct clamp look like this:

(Sorry, unknown sources)



 



Last time I was looking, this is what I thought was closest as a repro. It's the right length (you need 250mm), looks the right diameter but would need painting. (No connection with the seller)




http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=122616239420

Bergerwerke sell the correct repro clamps:

http://www.bergerwerke.com/prod6690pumpclamp.html

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Adrian


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## GPWPAT (Mar 19, 2018)

That is the exact pump I was looking at. I guess I will order one. I’ll order the clamp too. I ordered my truss brackets and wood pedal blocks from Bergerworks. Thank you. What are your thoughts on the Point of the fenders? With all the pictures on the net. I cant find a straight high res shot of the fenders.


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## Robertriley (Mar 19, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> That is the exact pump I was looking at. I guess I will order one. I’ll order the clamp too. I ordered my truss brackets and wood pedal blocks from Bergerworks. Thank you. What are your thoughts on the Point of the fenders? With all the pictures on the net. I cant find a straight high res shot of the fenders.



I used a Sun pump like that on my BSA. I was going to post a photo of it all painted up put I guess I don't have one.  Anyway, great pump for the project.


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## johan willaert (Mar 20, 2018)

Not sure exactly what you are looking for? Does this help?


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## Kstone (Mar 20, 2018)

Robertriley said:


> I used a Sun pump like that on my BSA. I was going to post a photo of it all painted up put I guess I don't have one.  Anyway, great pump for the project.





I've been looking for a pump for my paratrooper but was concerned about the fit. So it does fit, hey? Or do you have a different kind of BSA. That's good news if it does!


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## Herman (Mar 20, 2018)

Kstone said:


> I've been looking for a pump for my paratrooper but was concerned about the fit. So it does fit, hey? Or do you have a different kind of BSA. That's good news if it does!



I think that pump shown will be too short for your BSA , I believe Sun makes a longer one that might fit your existing frame brackets


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## Herman (Mar 20, 2018)

Herman said:


> I think that pump shown will be too short for your BSA , I believe Sun makes a longer one that might fit your existing frame brackets





Herman said:


> I think that pump shown will be too short for your BSA , I believe Sun makes a longer one that might fit your existing frame brackets



I texted you the pump you need to fit your frame brackets


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## GPWPAT (Mar 24, 2018)

Today I cut down the women’s truss rods. They turned out perfect. The end looks exactly as it should. I also positioned the chain guard. I had to cut down the rear aftermarket support. But now the perportions look like all the restorations I have seen. I have taken apart 2 Delta Winner headlights. The interior components of my original early non marked were corroded away. I had another delta winner marked light That I purchased for parts. It was corroded on the inside too but in different locations. After I sandblast I will weld the 2 inners together and put it back together after a coat of OD green. I am still in the search for paint. I want this pike to be the same shade of OD as the NOS handlebars. I used 33070 on my jeep. But I want the bike to be a different shade of OD. I’m thinking about going late WWII with the more Khaki in it. Maybe 319 a 1944 shade. My next bit of work will be to focus on reshaping the fenders and replacing the fender supports. Turns out the fender supports I purchased are the right shape. But the wrong length. I will have to take the rivets out and cut them down. Nothing is easy in restoration is it. There is always fabrication it seems.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 7, 2018)

Ok



I have been busy. Sandblasting and painting. I will be working on my fenders next. I restored my Delta Winner to working condition. I had 2 parts headlights. Both rusted out in different locations on the inside. I welded the 2 innards together and now it is functional again.

I welded up the slot on the seat frame to represent G519. Until I can find an original. Moved the studs and made recessed locations for the studs. I am ready for upholstery. I am going to try using vinyl first. Vinyl was only $20 per yard. Leather seems like I had to buy a half a cow.

Currently for paint. I am priming with zinc chromate self etching primer. Except in some cases where I need a good fill coat. Then I used rustolium red oxide. Outer coat. I am experimenting with Krylon OD. It is more represents WWII USMC than army. But once I am assembled I am going to break out my spray gun and hose it down with either 33070 or late WWII 319. Thinking 319. But we will see.

This weekend I will be finishing the fenders.

Today NOS rims show up. Then I am on a search for Hubs. Not to concerned about date codes. But I do want to pass a 5’ test. Maybe even a 1’ test.  But I do plan on making this so original so that when I do find a WWII frame. My parts can swap over.


I did order the pump mentioned above. I think it looks pretty good. It will look better after a sandblasting and a coat of OD. I also ordered the pump bracket from Bergerworks. That should show up in a week or so. Sadly I don’t think I can make the airshow I was trying to finish this for.

Maybe the next one.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 7, 2018)

Does anyone have any info on what the G519 Columbia fork looks like? I have been scouring the inter webs but have come up short on details. Any markings? Is it rolled on the inside? Trying to get enough background so when I find one I will know. For for now. I will run this incorrect fork.


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## izee2 (Apr 7, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> Does anyone have any info on what the G519 Columbia fork looks like? I have been scouring the inter webs but have come up short on details. Any markings? Is it rolled on the inside? Trying to get enough background so when I find one I will know. For for now. I will run this incorrect fork.




Here are some pics of an original g519 fork. If ya need anything else let me know.

























Hope this will help.
Tom 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## GPWPAT (Apr 7, 2018)

Perfect, thank you so much.


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## fat tire trader (Apr 8, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> Perfect, thank you so much.



The same fork came on some models before the war and reproductions were made in chrome.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 8, 2018)

Look at this fork. Add states for states for Schwinn but profile looks like what’s was posted above. States for 26” prewar rollfast or Schwinn. Might be a better fork to use than the current fork I have.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 8, 2018)




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## fat tire trader (Apr 9, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> View attachment 785057



That looks like the fork that you need and not what the ad states.


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## Bozman (Apr 9, 2018)

For your paint I use the Army Jeep Parts WW2 319 paint which is the same color I use on my 1942 GPW jeep.  I have an original GI painted bike from WW2 and the colors match perfectly.  The AJP WW3 319 paint is a little green out of the spray can but turns a more Yellow/brown Olive Drab as it ages.  For your fenders you need flat braces along with the front Duck tail fender.  The fender has a flip up on the rear part of the front fender and not the point that yours has.  This bike is a 1942 civilian tribute bike I built out for my best friend.  Notice the duck tail back of the front fender.  

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## JOHN DANGER (Apr 9, 2018)

don't use vinyl on your seat , just find as thin a piece of brown leather as you can , you dont need much I bought mine at a leather craft shop from the remnants table for 6 bucks and was enough for 2 seats, also I have both chain rings if you need one the sweet heart is different from the Schwinn version , also look into a bendix front hub in place of the Morrow eclipse they are very spendy, I might also have your front fork, will you be at the Petaluma MVPA show end of the month? I can bring you some parts, I will have some bikes there.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 10, 2018)

John Danger, I defiantly would be interested in a coffin chainring for my build. And thank you for your advice. I do know my fenders are too pointy. I plan on cutting them down. I would love to go to Petaluma but sadly that is the week I will be helping my elderly parents move. So I cant make it. Next year.... I may have some friends that will be there hunt down your bikes and take pictures for me. I miss Tower Park.  As for the Bendix. That hub I had zeroed in on and will start searching for. I just missed one on eBay last week. But I spent all my fun money on the NOS rims. I did purchase the fork that was pictured above. There is a Tandy leather not to far from my work here in Sacramento. I will stop in and see if I can get a scrap. I was planning on using carpet pad and burlap under the leather.

Bozeman, your build looks pretty good. I did know about the duck tail. I just dont know how to duplicate that, except to keep looking for a fender that will work. Currently I am trying to bend the flat braces for the fenders. They are very heavy duty and hard to shape. I made a template out of a 2x4 and I cant get then to shape. I think I am going to have to heat red hot. Then shape it.

Question for you all. That have an original front fender. Would anyone be willing to take a crayon rubbing for me on a piece of paper. This way I can see the curve the ridge and the edge of the fender metal. If you draw a line with ticks at 1” I can print this picture into cad, make sure it is scale and then make a cutting template. I am so close to having this first phase of the bike wrapped up for the airshow. Then I will continue to work on it to polish the details.

Thank you all so much for the input.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 17, 2018)

Small update.
Painted cheap vintage pump that I ordered from Ebay. Today the Bergerworks pump bracket showed up. I mated the 3 to see how they fit.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 17, 2018)

More parts for the build. NOS wheels. The bell and reflector are beadblasted and painted. I did receive the fork. Sadly, the stem tube was cut down to far. I will start working on that soon to make it the correct length. I will turn a piece of tube on my lathe to go inside and act as a centersilng shim. Then I will MIG weld a new piece of tube to fasten the 3 pieces together. And I will also plug weld which should make it nice and strong. I have a women’s fork that I got with the truss rods that will be my doner.


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## johan willaert (Apr 18, 2018)

Great work, where did you find the seat tabs? Still looking for two sets my bikes...


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## Whitey1736 (Apr 18, 2018)

Are the grips OD? What did you source for those?


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## Bozman (Apr 18, 2018)

johan willaert said:


> Great work, where did you find the seat tabs? Still looking for two sets my bikes...



Johan,

I have a template for the seat tabs and they are easy to manufacture. Once I get back to my shop next month I'll send you the digital  template

Boz

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## GPWPAT (Apr 18, 2018)

I got the crash tabs off of eBay. They are not totally correct for G519. I was going to modify them to work. I would love to see the template too if I could. All I have is pictures found on the net. No dimensions.

The hand Grips are OD but not quite the right shade. I purchased them from a Gent that tried to repro them off of G503. Unfortunately they are hard polyurethane resin. They dont slide onto the bar. I have been thinking with the idea of using them to pull a silicone mold and use a high durometer elastomer polyurethane castling resin. But I don’t know. I might just polish them up and soak them in some hot water to soften up and slide them on. It was suggested to me to paint them in OD semi gloss. I may do that. After all it is a 5’ rule tribute. Wish it was real. Kind of like when someone paints up a CJ to look like a MB. It bothers me. But in this case. I couldn’t find a real G519 in my price range. So.... Tribute it is.


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## blackcat (Apr 18, 2018)

Hello, 
9 years ago, i redid 2 pairs of crash tabs that i restored 3 saddles PERSON of origins, the leathers were damaged.
On the saddle of g519 1941, the crash tabs were present and good condition, i made à carboard template pieces of sheet metal and 1h30 they were done.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 21, 2018)

My spokes arrived. I ordered a part number I saw on another G519 build. They are 11GX270mm.

I am a little concerned they are not correct. They measure .115 inches in dia. I think the original was .120 if I recall correctly. This is not my concern however. My. Concern is the nipple. The dia of the nipple is .195 and the spoke hole in the NOS wheel is .258. So I have a considerable abound of slop for the spokes. I dont know if this is fine or not. I have never laced a wheel. My coworker has the tools I will be borrowing. For the trueling and the lacing. What do you think? Should I be looking for a 10G spoke?


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## GPWPAT (Apr 21, 2018)

Also does anybody have any tips for paint prep on 72 stainless steel spokes? I suppose I could run them thru the sandblasted. Or sand them individually. Maybe a acid soak or something?I figured I might prep these spokes first. I really like the original paint on the rims. This is what I would like to match.


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## Herman (Apr 21, 2018)

If it was me I would go with the 10 gauge spokes , I would be concerned about the nipples possibly pulling thru the rim with the 11 gauge , the originals were 10 gauge , 11 gauge is more for the Worksman type rims


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## GPWPAT (Apr 21, 2018)

Ok, after looking over the spec for 10 gauge spokes and nipples. I agree. I don’t know why the post on G503 by another cabe member used 11 gauge. Probably they were the heaviest gauge on the bicycle parts shop. So i am having trouble locating a vendor that sells 10ga spokes in 270mm. Does anyone have any leads?


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## GPWPAT (Apr 21, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> Ok, after looking over the spec for 10 gauge spokes and nipples. I agree. I don’t know why the post on G503 by another cabe member used 11 gauge. Probably they were the heaviest gauge on the bicycle parts shop. So i am having trouble locating a vendor that sells 10ga spokes in 270mm. Does anyone have any leads?




I did want to report I have a CADD version of the crash tab template now. I Also have it in PDF so we can print to scale. I will see if I can upload it here. What Gauge was the crash tab?


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## Bozman (Apr 21, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> I got the crash tabs off of eBay. They are not totally correct for G519. I was going to modify them to work. I would love to see the template too if I could. All I have is pictures found on the net. No dimensions.
> 
> The hand Grips are OD but not quite the right shade. I purchased them from a Gent that tried to repro them off of G503. Unfortunately they are hard polyurethane resin. They dont slide onto the bar. I have been thinking with the idea of using them to pull a silicone mold and use a high durometer elastomer polyurethane castling resin. But I don’t know. I might just polish them up and soak them in some hot water to soften up and slide them on. It was suggested to me to paint them in OD semi gloss. I may do that. After all it is a 5’ rule tribute. Wish it was real. Kind of like when someone paints up a CJ to look like a MB. It bothers me. But in this case. I couldn’t find a real G519 in my price range. So.... Tribute it is.




The original grips were a hard plastic and not a soft rubberized grip.  Sand the inside of them with some fine wet sandpaper.  

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## Tomato John (Apr 22, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> View attachment 790770 Small update.
> Painted cheap vintage pump that I ordered from Ebay. Today the Bergerworks pump bracket showed up. I mated the 3 to see how they fit.



Hi GPWPat,
I’ve been following your project. Looking  great. I need to find a pump for mine -  does the one that u ordered fit Schrader or Presta valves / both?  Not sure if it matters really since it isn’t original equipment but was curious. Did u order it from the link on this thread?  Thanks, John


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## GPWPAT (Apr 22, 2018)

Tomato John said:


> Hi GPWPat,
> I’ve been following your project. Looking  great. I need to find a pump for mine -  does the one that u ordered fit Schrader or Presta valves / both?  Not sure if it matters really since it isn’t original equipment but was curious. Did u order it from the link on this thread?  Thanks, John




I ordered it off ebay. It was called vintage bicycle pump 9”. It works with Schroeder. Not to bad from a distance. I figure a good place holder until an original is found. You will need to scuff the chrome or aluminum whatever it is to get the primer to stick.


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## US042 (Apr 25, 2018)

Hi GPWPAT,
           Nice work - I'm following your thread closely as I am doing a similar build. I have an original frame which was rebuilt/civilianised post war so I have been parts seaching. I too have had some difficulty sourcing 10G x 10 5/8"(270mm) spokes and nipples. I would be interested if you manage to source some. I would also appreciate a copy of the crash tab template. Keep up the good work- can't wait to see the finished product.

Regards,
Brett.


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## GPWPAT (Apr 26, 2018)

Uploading the seat crash tab template. I traced this in CADD from the image posted above. using the thickness of the spring at the front of the seat frame as a point of reference. so I don't know if it is exact. But it should be very close. I am going to practice on a sheet of aluminum.

I have found 2 sources of spokes. one is Memory lane, and there are some on Ebay. they have to be custom made. and run $45 for 37 spokes. My research is telling me I need 10Ga 270 MM. since everything is based on metric these days.

I received my Dayton Heavy duty hub yesterday. and purchased a Marrow hub from Ebay. It is the right era but wrong date code. I will have to drill out the spokes. when it shows up I will work on building a jig for my drill press.


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## SteveBarber (Apr 27, 2018)

I drilled out a hub for a women’s tribute build and actually recommend using a vice and a cordless variable speed drill (I have three drill presses and a mill).  The hub material is relatively hard and a drill press might tend to cause the bit to grab and break.  Which ever tool you you use, just go slow and steady.  After drilling the holes to the proper size, I used a larger bit to chamfer the holes on each side to allow the spokes to seat well in the holes.  I also recommend using high quality preferably US made high speed steel bits.  As recommended in earlier posts, I used a later Bendix marked front hub.  Unless you get real close and read the markings, it is very difficult to tell the difference between my real G519 and my tribute hubs.  I think it would pass a two foot test!

Great job on the build!


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## Whitey1736 (Apr 27, 2018)

I drilled out the hubs on my 46 columbia using a drill press and a little clunky jig/clamp to hold it in place.  With the press on a slower setting I had no problems at all but i'm sure everyone has a different experience.  Maybe my hubs weren't as robust as the ones your are using..?   I should have chamfered them though.  I think i was hoping that I would replace them soon anyways...wishful thinking I'm sure.  I still need to put a few things together on mine, hopefully finish it up soon.  Great progress on yours!



SteveBarber said:


> I drilled out a hub for a women’s tribute build and actually recommend using a vice and a cordless variable speed drill (I have three drill presses and a mill).  The hub material is relatively hard and a drill press might tend to cause the bit to grab and break.  Which ever tool you you use, just go slow and steady.  After drilling the holes to the proper size, I used a larger bit to chamfer the holes on each side to allow the spokes to seat well in the holes.  I also recommend using high quality preferably US made high speed steel bits.  As recommended in earlier posts, I used a later Bendix marked front hub.  Unless you get real close and read the markings, it is very difficult to tell the difference between my real G519 and my tribute hubs.  I think it would pass a two foot test!
> 
> Great job on the build!


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## Herman (Apr 27, 2018)

Jerry the Memory Lane wheel builder said he uses a correct size burr instead of a drill bit and  runs it in reverse when drilling a hub


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## US042 (Apr 27, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> Uploading the seat crash tab template. I traced this in CADD from the image posted above. using the thickness of the spring at the front of the seat frame as a point of reference. so I don't know if it is exact. But it should be very close. I am going to practice on a sheet of aluminum.
> 
> I have found 2 sources of spokes. one is Memory lane, and there are some on Ebay. they have to be custom made. and run $45 for 37 spokes. My research is telling me I need 10Ga 270 MM. since everything is based on metric these days.
> 
> I received my Dayton Heavy duty hub yesterday. and purchased a Marrow hub from Ebay. It is the right era but wrong date code. I will have to drill out the spokes. when it shows up I will work on building a jig for my drill press.





Hi GPWPAT,
                Many thanks for uploading the template. Thank you also for the leeds on the spokes. After  my last post I did find a supplier on Ebay for the spokes but they are in stainless steel. I dont think that will matter though. Again - many thanks & keep up the great work.
Regards,
Brett.


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## GPWPAT (May 19, 2018)

Sadly I have been helping my elderly parents just figure out how to live. This has taken all of my free time. Today I decided I needed some me time. I practiced covering my seat with materials on hand. It is vinyl. But I wanted to practice before I did it in leather. It turned out so good in fact if I had covered it in leather I would have left it. So this week I will see if I can get a piece of leather.

Now back to the fenders. This week I will order 10ga spokes and look at getting my wheels laced. I will sandblast my hubs and paint them green first. I would do it. But I have zero time. My coworker has all of the tools. I will see if he wants to earn some green on the side.


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## GPWPAT (May 22, 2018)

On the hunt for spokes. I called Memory Lane. They are closed for business. So I’m reaching out to Ebay vendors. Hope I can find 270MM spokes in 10Ga. Or have them made. I’m concerned on nipple dimensions. I found the spec on a 10GA vintage motorcycle forum that match what I am looking for. But on Ebay. If nit comes from China. You never know what you will get.


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## GPWPAT (Jun 30, 2018)

I think my seat padding is a bit thick. The profile does not look correct per pictures. I will retry with some 1/4 foam. 

I found steel spokes on eBay. 271mm. They were 1mm too long. Spent all day learning ,how to lace wheels. My coworkers, who are into bicycles talked me into doing it myself. After 3 hours to lace one wheel and I still need to true. I wish I had it done. Drilling the hubs was not fun. I wound up using carbide masonry bits and grinding them down to the correct diameter. I say bits because it took me about $20 worth of bits in  trial and error until I had it down. My fenders are now mounted. Please pay no attention to the pop rivets. They are temporary for fitting. I will replace them with proper peaned rivets when my fabrication is complete. Turned out the stays I purchased on eBay are stainless and These were killing my bits too. I had to break out the oxy/acetelene to heat them up enough to get the curvature right. I also trimmed the fenders so the curvature seems more correct.

Fabrication on this bicycle has been a challenge. Tomorrow I think I will finish repair on the fork and lace the rear wheel. 

I found this great picture from McCllean Field during WWII. This field is local to me. I might have to take my bicycle there for pictures when it is complete.


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## GPWPAT (Jul 7, 2018)




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## GPWPAT (Jul 7, 2018)

Finished my fork Restoration yesterday. The stem had been cut too short to use on the Columbia frame. But I wanted to replace the bearing race before welding. I didn’t want to have to grind the welds away. I found finding a modern replacement race very difficult. I wound up re surface INC it on my lathe. But it was hardened steel. I couldn’t cut it. I couldn’t file it. But would up using a grinder bit in my Dremel  and held it by hand while the lathe turned the race. It worked perfectly to surface grind the race.

Onto the stem tube repair. I turned a sleeve to interfearance fit dimensions. And drilled holes so I could plug weld along with fillet weld. Using the sleeve strengthens the joint and keeps it perfectly inline. 

Sadly I had cut down my women’s truss rods to match the incorrect fork. This resulted in the truss rods being 1/2” too short. I would up repairing by cutting off the hole area and welding on the original piece that I had cut off. I got lucky. After grinding you cant even tell.

So that is how the bike hangs. Weighs in at 50.2 lbs. 

I have 9 holes in the fenders to weld up. And some hammer and dolly work. I am very close to painting. But after yesterday’s moc up of all the components. I could not resist putting the chain on and going for a ride.


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## GPWPAT (Jul 13, 2018)




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## GPWPAT (Jul 13, 2018)

Not done. But assembled enough to take it to my grandfathers for him to see it. I still need to spot body fill some of my welds. And repaint. This is just my first coat. Unfortunately one of my cans of spray pant was USMC forest green and the other 2 are a dead ringer for 33070 early WWII. I planned on spraying with a real spray gun anyway. Still need to pain those wheels and the pedals. I purchased some repro hand grips. But I cant put those on until I respray. Rims and handlebars still show original NOS paint.


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## GPWPAT (Jul 24, 2018)

Here are some pictures of my bicycle with my grandfather. My Uncle took it for a ride. I was not able to finish the stenciling for the trip. I was able to finish the tag. And get it painted. I was able to get my grandfather to sign it in the area where it will not be stenciled and he asked me why he was signing. I explained to him. He gave me a moment of understanding, and then thanked me. He did not specifically remember bicycles. He remembered using them. But my bicycle did not trigger a flood of memories for him like B17 triggers memories. The B17 triggers floods of memories and a significant time in his life. The bicycle like the wrench was just a tool. My grandfather was an avid lover of aviation. Built models as a teen. And went on to get a degree in aeronautical engineering after the war.

I chose bicycle number 17 in honor of the B17 that my grandfather was a mechanic for at Dyersburge. This way it has some family tie for the story. But the tag is complete fiction. I have not been able to find many pictures at all of Dyersburge Army Air Base with bicycles. But it was one of the largest up until the end of the war in 1945 when it closed.


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## blackcat (Jul 24, 2018)

Hello;
Great moments! 
Serge


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## Hammerman (Aug 1, 2018)

I really enjoyed your tribute bike story.  I came across your article about 2/3's into my project and was interested to see we went about things almost the same way.  I experienced the same issues you did with the build.  The only difference is I ended up putting a Huffman fork on my Columbia G 519 tribute.  Since in wartime, parts were sometimes swapped out that is how I am justifying it.  
 I would love to see a picture of your completed bike.  You have done a great job.


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## GPWPAT (Aug 13, 2018)

Closer to being complete. I have slowed. But I will push through. I need to paint everything that shines. And paint the bottom portion of the rear fender white. But I really wanted to get my stenciling finished and get that on. The rear fender will have the bicycle number 17 and acronym DAAB probably painted in black or OD green. I am not decided yet on that.Blue Drab might be cool too. I need to wrap this project up. This weekend I am picking up the foundation to my next project. A WWII cushman scooter. Apparently I have been spelling Dyersburg incorrectly the whole time. My uncle teasing asked after I had painted. Luckily the stenciling was not cured and I was able to whipe the surplus E away with denatured alcohol without harming my Grandfathers signature.


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## blackcat (Aug 14, 2018)

Hello;
Ww2 CUSHMAN 53?
Serge


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## GPWPAT (Aug 14, 2018)

Well yes and no. What I found is cushman 53A. Early 1946 made of military parts and some civilian (upgrades). So super easy to backdate to 1945 configuration. Only main thing will be removing rear suspension. And repairing the frame. Replace seat. Oh and rebuild the engine. All running gear is accounted for. Frame around engine and seat is missing and will have to be fabricated. Luckily I found a man who has Jigs and builds the missing pieces. All I have to do is weld it back together.


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## JimRoy (Aug 14, 2018)

You build and story are fantastic. Enjoy what you have done. 
I completed my tribute build this past Saturday. 
JimRoy


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## blackcat (Aug 15, 2018)

GPWPAT said:


> Well yes and no. What I found is cushman 53A. Early 1946 made of military parts and some civilian (upgrades). So super easy to backdate to 1945 configuration. Only main thing will be removing rear suspension. And repairing the frame. Replace seat. Oh and rebuild the engine. All running gear is accounted for. Frame around engine and seat is missing and will have to be fabricated. Luckily I found a man who has Jigs and builds the missing pieces. All I have to do is weld it back together.




Hello;
Yes, i know both models well.
We have a ww2 CUSHMAN 53 of 12-44.
Good restoration.
Cheers;
Serge


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## Hammerman (Aug 15, 2018)

Looks very good.  As soon as I paint my wheels, I will be done with mine as well and will post pictures.


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## GPWPAT (Sep 24, 2018)

Took My Bicycle to the Swap meet and a Vintage Car show over the weekend. Met some new friends and fellow Caber at the swapmeet. Spent more time than I thought I would Talking Bicycle.

Interesting Note at the pre 1945 show. There was a 1941 staff car and 3 Jeeps. One of the guys with a jeep said I have one of those and pulled out a 1950’s schwin with tank painted OD. I told him they are not the same and he looked at me funny. But the model T guys were intrigued. Listened to my story, took lots of pictures and My bicycle build and Story of the G-519 in service will be featured in the Santa Clara Model T newsletter next month. Cool.


I picked up some paint from the swapmeet that color matched the NOS handlebars and NOS wheels. Guess I will be repainting my bike. I also picked up the correct 24 tooth coffin chainring from a fellow Caber. Sweet. Thanks John.


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## GPWPAT (Sep 24, 2018)

I must add. I love having a bicycle at shows. It is so nice on my feet to move about with wheels. It was just so great. It was everything I imagined and more. I would love to have a bicycle that matches the erra of my model T now.


I just totaled up my cost to build this Bicycle. Damn. My $100 frame added up quickly to something I should insure. Can you get Bicycle insurance?. Probably no surprise to some. I thought i was around $1000. But once you get deep into the restoration. Nothing will stop going for the authenticity. Next Time It might be cheaper to buy a real G519. I am still on the hunt for a Frame. So my Tribute turns into a real one.


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## GPWPAT (Dec 11, 2018)

I got my coffin chainring installed. Looks good and fits a lot better than the women’s lovers.


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