# Observations of EvapoRust or "No Blue For You"



## Ozark Flyer

I have a Diamond chain with Blued links that had some minor rust on it.  After only about an hour in EvapoRust the rust was gone but to my surprise, so was the Blueing.  See shot on left after derusting compared to a non treated chain on the right.  Just saying this was my result so as they say on Hillstreet Blues "be careful out there".  (sorry about the pun,  just too easy)


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## Boris

Has anyone tried the molasses treatment yet. I'm afraid to because it sounds really messy. But I'm wondering if that method would retain the blueing?


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## Duck

No surprise there- "bluing" is, technically, a controlled rusting process. Google "rust bluing"; I've done several firearms with beautiful results, using the process.


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## rustjunkie

Some Diamond chains were not blued originally.  Do you have a picture of the chain before evaporust?


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## vincev

What was the molasses treatment?


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## Boris

Glad you asked, I just found this you tube video.

[video=youtube;vq5IUiYMhRM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq5IUiYMhRM[/video]


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## vincev

thank you Dave,now go give me my thumbs up on your thread.


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## bricycle

I never tried the "Molasses treatment " on a chain. I does remove rust tho-


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## scrubbinrims

Using molasses on a chain seems messy and time consuming, but it does sound delicious.
Seriously, no liquids for me...just technique on a soft bristle wire wheel outside and yes, some of the blue does come off the more aggressive you have to be in removing the crud.
Chris


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## Boris

I imagine based on Duck's comment, that the molasses would remove the bluing on a chain.


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## Andrew Gorman

I used molasses- 10% solution in water, soak for a few weeks on a chain and it worked great.  Just sealed it up in a plastic shoebox on the back porch so no mess.  Here's an after picture:
http://s53.photobucket.com/user/gormanao/media/Cushion Tire Safety/molasseschain.jpg.html


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## vincev

I guess I am primitive.I use a drill press with wire wheel then use "White Lightning"


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## Ozark Flyer

No before photo because I was not anticipating the result but it looked just like the one in the photo.  No doubt it was a blue link chain and no doubt it took the blue off completely.  Next time it's molasses for me on the blue diamond chain and a biscuit.




rustjunkie said:


> Some Diamond chains were not blued originally.  Do you have a picture of the chain before evaporust?


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## rustjunkie

Ozark Flyer said:


> No before photo because I was not anticipating the result but it looked just like the one in the photo.  No doubt it was a blue link chain and no doubt it took the blue off completely.




Bummer. I left a nice one in Zep purple degreaser overnight by accident, cooked all the bluing off that one too.


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## Boris

Ozark Flyer said:


> Next time it's molasses for me on the blue diamond chain and a biscuit.




It hasn't been determined if molasses would offset the problem. It doesn't sound like it, based on Duck's post in this thread.


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## THEGOLDENGREEK

Ive have used Evaporust before and it worked ok. But when i do my chains i use Vinegar works just as good if not better!!


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## vincev

Andrew Gorman said:


> I used molasses- 10% solution in water, soak for a few weeks on a chain and it worked great
> 
> A few weeks! I guess what they say about molasses is true ,very slow.


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## Andrew Gorman

When do you need to get this bike on the road?  besides, the hydrangeas like the iron.


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## SirMike1983

Duck said:


> No surprise there- "bluing" is, technically, a controlled rusting process. Google "rust bluing"; I've done several firearms with beautiful results, using the process.




Exactly- bluing and plum browning are both forms of controlled corrosion using different chemicals. Oxalic Acid likewise will lift most forms of bluing and plum browning. I have had luck using long soaks in detergent motor or gear oil combined with a stiff bristle, plastic brush for removing rust and gunk from chains without removing bluing.

If you don't want to soak, try gun oil or, better yet, Balistol with brush. When you're working with bluing, gun care products are your best bet because they have largely been formulated not to remove bluing.


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## TammyN

Has anyone tried molasses yet on a blue chain?
Also, has anyone figured out what's in Evaporust? I haven't been able to find any info on its ingredients. It's not acidic and it seems to be water-based. It sure looks like the 10% molasses solution but it works a lot slower.


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## jkent

I vote for diesel fuel. I have used it in the past and it has never eat the blueing off any chains yet.
Works good for getting years of grease and grime off hubs, sprockets, and chains, practically no scrubbing at all.
JKent


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## momo608

If anyone is interested you can re-blue steel fairly easy. Clean the parts with lacquer thinner and then submerge them in this. I have used a lot of this for gunsmithing work. It's the best cold blueing chemical I have found and I tried most of them. 

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-bluing-chemicals/dicropan-t-4--prod1085.aspx

This also works well on touch ups like sprocket teeth on freewheels with a piece of cotton rag. On something like a chain it would be best to submerge the entire chain. The T4 is reusable if you keep the contaminants out of it.


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## Duck

momo608 said:


> If anyone is interested you can re-blue steel fairly easy. Clean the parts with lacquer thinner and then submerge them in this. I have used a lot of this for gunsmithing work. It's the best cold blueing chemical I have found and I tried most of them.
> 
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-bluing-chemicals/dicropan-t-4--prod1085.aspx
> 
> This also works well on touch ups like sprocket teeth on freewheels with a piece of cotton rag. On something like a chain it would be best to submerge the entire chain. The T4 is reusable if you keep the contaminants out of it.



I've used that a few times on various things with mixed results. My experience is it's easily removed with any petroleum-based product. In other words, you couldn't oil the chain after it's applied, or you've wasted your time and money on it.


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## Dale Alan

momo608 said:


> If anyone is interested you can re-blue steel fairly easy. Clean the parts with lacquer thinner and then submerge them in this. I have used a lot of this for gunsmithing work. It's the best cold blueing chemical I have found and I tried most of them.
> 
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-bluing-chemicals/dicropan-t-4--prod1085.aspx
> 
> This also works well on touch ups like sprocket teeth on freewheels with a piece of cotton rag. On something like a chain it would be best to submerge the entire chain. The T4 is reusable if you keep the contaminants out of it.




I have had good luck with T4 also .As mentioned cleaning with lacquer thinner was key,never had a problem unless I hurried things and did not prep the steel correctly.


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## momo608

Dale Alan said:


> I have had good luck with T4 also .As mentioned cleaning with lacquer thinner was key,never had a problem unless I hurried things and did not prep the steel correctly.




Yes. The best method I have found is to submerge parts for ten seconds and no longer, rinse with cold water immediately but do no rub or dry the parts with a rag. Blow them off with compressed air (best) or lay them on paper towels to remove excess water, soak them down with copious amounts of oil. Leave them sit oil drenched for a few days on cardboard and then put them into use. It seems the longer the T4 is allowed to sit without rubbing it the more durable or permanent it becomes. It also seems to work exceptionally well on a bead or sandblasted surfaces.


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## shawn57187

jkent said:


> I vote for diesel fuel. I have used it in the past and it has never eat the blueing off any chains yet.
> Works good for getting years of grease and grime off hubs, sprockets, and chains, practically no scrubbing at all.
> JKent



Agreed, gasoline and diesel are great for cutting grease.


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