# Pre- war Schwinn rear drum brake and axle schematic parts and sequence



## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

Good day all. I am looking for a parts break down and sequence of parts application ( picture if possible) for a pre-war Schwinn rear brake. This would be from the inside of the drum moving out ( left side of course) from the race with balls and grease, dust cap, cone ( that's a given) to after the cone to the final axle nut. There are obviously the fender braces and rack legs and a series of washers ( what type washers/what order?) and a lock nut? I've had some help from Cabers/pals so far, but would like a reference for now and future folks to use.

I have had the misfortune of my 1941 Autocycle's axle locking up and making a mess of things. The cone spun SUPER tight into the race dust cap. The rear wheel was literally seized. Then the right axle/freewheel side spun undoing the end nut. Sheesh!!

Taking the fender braces, rack legs, backing off axle/chain adjusters, pork chop anchor bolt, chain off, nuts, washers over and over is a chore, especially on a fresh resto. All in the fun of bike mechanics, eh?

At one point the axle was so tight the spoke ends at drum outside were brushing the pork chop...Yikes!! I placed a large flat washer after the cone ( after loosening) to create a spacer, but after some tips and tricks, I see there is a knurled/serrated lock washer of sorts ( a friend sent me a picture of his washer) with a D hole ( see pic) that likely goes against the cone. Apparently there is a thin lock nut to come into play as well, perhaps outside the porkchop?

I have the wheel spinning freely now ( on and off multiple times) and kept the cones a bit on the loose side, but fear ( I won't be riding this much/mainly a show piece/display) a repeat situation if the bike is ridden, will never be hidden. Mechanically, I've wrenched on dozens after dozens of bikes, cars, motorcycles, boats, scooters, wagons, you name it. Jack of all trades, master on none. I "get by". I'm never too proud to ask for help. If I can put something upside down, backwards, or topsy turvey, I usually will 1st, then 2nd, 3 time is usually a charm.

Thanks/see pics/ Bob


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## buickmike (Jul 2, 2022)

That looks like the bike in the new media section.


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

buickmike said:


> That looks like the bike in the new media section.



That's my bike, yup! It's a piece of art, I love it. I'm just trying to learn more about it. Thanks.


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## cyclingday (Jul 2, 2022)

There should be a pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup, that the teeth of the serrated/toothed, D washer locks into.
It is what keeps the adjusting cup locked in position.
A lot of mistakes are made by guys getting too lazy to back the thin lock nut far enough out to make the cup adjustment, then re seat the star washer and then, re set the lock nut.
Usually what happens, is that the D/Star washer breaks, then needs to be replaced.
That’s what most likely happened to yours at one point, so then the owner ground off the pin on the adjusting cup, so that the lock nut would sit flat against the cup.
The reason for the flat on the axle, and the keyed D/Star washer, is to keep from happening, what keeps happening to you.
I’ll see if I can get a picture of the schematic for you.


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## cyclingday (Jul 2, 2022)




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## cyclingday (Jul 2, 2022)

There are also a series of very thin washer/spacers that are used to get the free play in the freewheel body just right.
Also on the Brake Plate/Porkchop side, that can be used to get the distance from the spokes just right.


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

cyclingday said:


> There should be a pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup, that the teeth of the serrated/toothed, D washer locks into.
> It is what keeps the adjusting cup locked in position.
> A lot of mistakes are made by guys getting too lazy to back the thin lock nut far enough out to make the cup adjustment, then re seat the star washer and then, re set the lock nut.
> Usually what happens, is that the D/Star washer breaks, then needs to be replaced.
> ...



I see the tooth on the cone right/freewheel side. I think that side is ok/haven't dismantled that side ( could that be the problem/no #3893 washer??). I was looking for the details on the drum side, but obviously need this info too!. Is there a way the cone locks on the drum side too? Any pics/breakdown of that? Yeah, give me a little, I wanna lot...ha!! Here is what I see on this freewheel side, no washer to lock on cone # 3860 pin. Would that be a No #3893 then the thin lock nut on either end. Do you have the rest of the part number names? THANKS so much, but my sponge is only half full and it's a small sponge...ha!


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

cyclingday said:


> There are also a series of very thin washer/spacers that are used to get the free play in the freewheel body just right.
> Also on the Brake Plate/Porkchop side, that can be used to get the distance from the spokes just right.



Marty you are a wealth of info. I'm heading out for a motorcycle ride, *will check in later.* I was up to the wee hours on Thursday morning trying to figure this out. The wheel spins now, but I'm obviously missing some parts and direction. You have the direction, I think my pal Bobby U has some parts. Thanks!


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

cyclingday said:


> There are also a series of very thin washer/spacers that are used to get the free play in the freewheel body just right.
> Also on the Brake Plate/Porkchop side, that can be used to get the distance from the spokes just right.



It sounds like I need some spacers and special star D washers, two at least/ I wonder what holds the cone on the brake drum side if there is no pin on that cone? and a picture showing the correct sequence and parts for both sides. This is almost "rocket science". For me anyway. In my current set up there is nothing to keep the cones fixed in one place. I get the theory for sure. If anyone has spacers and star D washers, please PM me, or an extra lock nut.. Thanks.


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

cyclingday said:


> View attachment 1655630
> View attachment 1655633



Are there pictures of the other numbers/example #3896. I guess both cones should have pins and star D washers and thin lock nuts and a series of spacers? I put a list ( hopefully makes sense/complete) in the wanted section. If I seem obsessed, I am. That's my good side...ha!!









						Found - Pre war Schwinn rear axle special star washers D hole to fit and fix adjusting cones/both sides. Also spacers to adjust drum cone to chop/lock nuts | Wanted: Bikes, Trikes, Parts, Accessories, Etc.
					

Pre war Schwinn rear axle special star washers D hole #3893 in pic to fit and fix adjusting cones/pin/both sides. Also spacers to adjust porkchop and fixed cone to lock nut. I need lock nuts too please, perhaps a new axle. If the cone on the drum side needs a pin, I need that cone too! What do...




					thecabe.com
				




 Thanks!


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## cyclingday (Jul 2, 2022)

This is the pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup.
The lock nut gets loosened up enough to slide the D/Tooth washer back far enough to clear the pin.
Then the bearing cup gets turned in or out far enough to add or remove the free play.
Then the D/Tooth washer gets slid back in and locked in position by the pin.
Then the lock nut gets fastened down, then the axle nut gets secured.
The bearing adjustments are always made from this side.
The brake side of the hub is fixed when the axle nut is tightened on that side.
I have used a lock nut on the brake plate, if there is sufficient room between the frame/fork ends.
The lock nut on the brake plate simplifies the wheel removal by locking the axle cone and brake plate as a fixed unit.
Im not sure why Schwinn didn’t specify the assembly this way, because it secures the brake plate to the hub, which is handy when working on the loose wheel.
Just a personal preference of mine, to use a lock nut on the brake side as well.


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

cyclingday said:


> This is the pin that sticks out of the adjusting cup.
> The lock nut gets loosened up enough to slide the D/Tooth washer back far enough to clear the pin.
> Then the bearing cup gets turned in or out far enough to add or remove the free play.
> Then the D/Tooth washer gets slid back in and locked in position by the pin.
> ...



Wow, this makes sense. Is there not a lock nut needed on the brake side? I guess not if a lock washer is used at the pork chop and fork and holds the cone in place once the axle nut is tightened. Therefore the cone at the brake side doesn't have a pin or need a star D type washer? If I recall, the axle doesn't have a flat spot on this side anyway for the D star washer to be effective. Only spacers after the cone to ensure clearance of the spoke bases to the pork chop? I have a large flat washer as a spacer now/seems to work. So all I need is one star D washer for the freewheel side? Yes, I was dropped on my head as a baby.


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## Nashman (Jul 2, 2022)

Now I hopefully just need Sam to do her thing ( and a star D washer) so I don't have to take the damn wheel off again!! If and when I get one, I may wait til Christmas anyway.






						Samantha on bewitched twitchung her nose - Bing video
					






					www.bing.com


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## cyclingday (Jul 2, 2022)

You got it!
I just put one of those thin lock nuts on the outside of the brake plate/porkchop just to lock it in place.
It’s not called for in the Schwinn part sheet, but it works better for me, so that’s what I do.
Sometimes it makes it a challenge to get the wheel to slip in easily between the drop out/fork ends, but more times than not, it works just fine.


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