# cleaning and reviveing  orig. paint



## looneymatthew (Mar 20, 2013)

what is the best way to save /revive orig oxidized tatty paint?  and if you have some results to show that would be really nice to see.

thanks


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## DonChristie (Mar 21, 2013)

This has been discussed alot. I get best results using Steel wool (xxxx) and WD-40. Excercise caution around Pin stripes and decals. After, a nice wax job to slow rust. The Iver was all rust, barely any paint visible. Heres the finish product.
http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/album.php?albumid=448


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## looneymatthew (Mar 21, 2013)

*looks BRILLIANT*

THATS what ive been looking for . what kind of wax did you use and what type of steel wool is xxxx?



schwinndoggy said:


> This has been discussed alot. I get best results using Steel wool (xxxx) and WD-40. Excercise caution around Pin stripes and decals. After, a nice wax job to slow rust. The Iver was all rust, barely any paint visible. Heres the finish product.
> http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/album.php?albumid=448


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## DonChristie (Mar 21, 2013)

Steel wool has different grades of abrasiveness. 4 (xxxx or 0000) is the finest and less of these is more coarse. I think i used Carnauba (sp?) car wax. Post pics of what ya got!


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## kos22us (Mar 23, 2013)

take your time with the steel wool, once cleaned i've found boiled linseed oil to be top notch stuff as far as bringing out the paint, i personally use this on all my stuff, a little bit of it goes along way, its a cleaner and is also oil based so once applied and wiped off there will be a very very faint coat left which will protect against future rust

this question is kind of like asking who is the best quarterback, you ask 5 guys and you'll get 5 different answers, my best advice is none of these materials or methods are expensive so get a few different things and see what works best for you


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## pedal4416 (Mar 23, 2013)

I use really fine scotch brite  pads because I heard that steel wool leaves more metal in the paint. Then rubbing compound if needed, but I finish with polishing compound and a good coat of wax.


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## Ozark Flyer (Mar 25, 2013)

3M scrubbie pads with WD40. Finish with Turtlewax Polish and Tech Wax...BAM!


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## abe lugo (Mar 25, 2013)

*Ive been using brass wool*

Get it on ebay a bit pricey but works nice on chrome also, you will want extra fine


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## Harvest Cyclery (Mar 27, 2013)

Ozark Flyer said:


> 3M scrubbie pads with WD40. Finish with Turtlewax Polish and Tech Wax...BAM!




Amazing work! It's amazing what a little elbow grease can do!


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## Tim the Skid (Mar 27, 2013)

*original paint revival*

My buddy brownster69 told me about the 0000 steel wool and cleaner wax method, I was doubtful until I tried it. The results are amazing, but as stated above, be extra careful around pinstripes and decals.


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## Nickinator (Mar 27, 2013)

I want that bike so badly   lucky man




Ozark Flyer said:


> 3M scrubbie pads with WD40. Finish with Turtlewax Polish and Tech Wax...BAM!


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## Ozark Flyer (Mar 28, 2013)

Nickinator said:


> I want that bike so badly   lucky man




Thanks, it's been a fun one to revive.  Evaporust on the rims, fork, rack, and chain guard.   Here's how she sits today with new rubber.


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## Tim the Skid (Mar 28, 2013)

*Great Job!*

Nice save, I'd take an original paint bike over a full resto anytime. Your patience and skill bringing this one back is impressive.  Tim


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## Goldenrod (May 4, 2016)

Mothers metal polish and stay away from the pin stripes.


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## rollfaster (May 4, 2016)

Ozark Flyer said:


> Thanks, it's been a fun one to revive.  Evaporust on the rims, fork, rack, and chain guard.   Here's how she sits today with new rubber.



Holy crap! Beautiful.


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## momo608 (May 4, 2016)

Steel wool on paint!!

You do know companies like Meguirars have heavily invested in products that are as gentle as possible reviving old paint. Scratching it up with abrasives like steel wool and scrubbing pads is not a good idea.

http://www.meguiars.com/en/product-advisor/#Z8zMxkUDmZrCsMlW.97


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## CrazyDave (May 4, 2016)

momo608 said:


> Steel wool on paint!!
> 
> You do know companies like Meguirars have heavily invested in products that are as gentle as possible reviving old paint. Scratching it up with abrasives like steel wool and scrubbing pads is not a good idea.
> 
> ...


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## ram.1950 (May 31, 2016)

I had a '41 Roadmaster that the fenders were so heavily oxidized there was no visible color left. I figured the goal was to get the oxidization off the fenders so I went right at it with rubbing compound rubbing it in with a rag in a circular motion. I rubbed all the residue off with a rag and then went over the whole fender with a hand drill and a buffing pad attachment - lots of color and some shine to boot!

What it comes down to in my oinion is every chemical, paste, etc. you use has grit in it which chews up the crap on your finish. Each one is different so just find a product that works on a certain problem. I have 4 different chrome polishes. My old timer from when I was a kid is Brasso - it's a liquid in a can (plastic bottle now) and it used to clean off any amount of rust on my English 3 Speed Chrome Rims. Guess what though - not all chrome is created equal. That chrome on my Hercules English Bike was hard and thick and the brasso did nothing but make it shine - NO SCRATCHES! I Take the Brasso to some modern chrome and it looks like brushed steel afterwards. Pin dot size rust on chrome - Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (helps if you have hard fingernails). Another Chrome Cleaner that comes in different grits is Quick-Glo - even the Fine is twice as abrasive as Mothers. When in doubt start with a lesser abrasive cleaner than what you think you need. I mentioned rubbing compound - you can get that and a Cleaning Polish both made by Turtle Wax at WalMart. The cleaning polish is for dull painted finishes - scrubs off the crud and lets the paint shine again. I used to use a similar product when I was a car detailer (I was 16 and good at it) and after rubbing it in went over everything with a REAL Buffer.

One thing that is adjustable is the pressure you use. My latest fail was taking a tin bread box out of a Hoosier Cabinet and trying to clean some nasty black marks off it with Mothers (least grit of all metal polishers/cleaners). I got them off but used too much pressure and scratched the tin. Now I'm going over the scratched area with less pressure trying to remove the scratches. This is true with any of the cleaners - adjustable pressure.

So yea, just find what works best for you in a given situation, and there are no rules. You can improvise different products for something totally unrelated - if it works it works. Have Fun!  Robert


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