# Morrow Hub Help Please



## Natscum (May 31, 2017)

I think I've read most the threads about Morrow Hubs and reassembling them, but nothing talks about lubricating them before or after assembly. So, do I grease the bearings? My hubs (1936) have an oil port. I got 30W non detergent ...how much do I use? I guess I need to know how to lubricate this thing after getting it back together.

Thanks for any help.


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## DonChristie (May 31, 2017)

Grease the bearings and oil the other parts prior to assembling.


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## Natscum (May 31, 2017)

Got it thanks so much.


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## Autocycleplane (May 31, 2017)

schwinndoggy said:


> Grease the bearings and oil the other parts prior to assembling.




Correct advice for New Departure for sure. I would use all grease and no oil in Morrow hubs or any other coaster that uses the hub shell as the brake.


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## DonChristie (May 31, 2017)

Interesting! So whats your take on Morrow hubs having an oil port?


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## buickmike (May 31, 2017)

Autocycleplane .the bike you show on the trails
 That looks like it has a morrow on it?  How do you keep from destroying it.


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## Natscum (May 31, 2017)

Morrow oil port????


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## Autocycleplane (May 31, 2017)

schwinndoggy said:


> Interesting! So whats your take on Morrow hubs having an oil port?




Grease gun is what I use, Phil's green grease is what goes in.



buickmike said:


> Autocycleplane .the bike you show on the trails
> That looks like it has a morrow on it?  How do you keep from destroying it.




It's the BB parts and stems I go through the most. Morrows are bomber, especially if you build them correctly and ditch the bearing retainers on the little driver bearing then add some extra balls. They will actually still brake well when hot, something the NDs aren't known for especially.


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## buickmike (May 31, 2017)

Look uh .
I gotta ask- you add additional. Bearings at the smaller bearing at the sprocket? What about the repop adjustment. Cone  with the smaller height. Does that affect anything.  I keep taking mine apart first to remove grease I had slathered over everything then to correctly position spring+ disc.  Now braking has improved although the drive sequence has improved it still isn't. Immediate as the ins info recommends. Finally I ordered another spring and a pair of the little c shaped rings that drive the forward motion of the wheel. I put a little oil.on the drum where the inner expanders are in contact.


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## Autocycleplane (May 31, 2017)

Natscum said:


> Morrow oil port???? View attachment 475048




Grease port


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## Autocycleplane (May 31, 2017)

buickmike said:


> Look uh .
> I gotta ask- you add additional. Bearings at the smaller bearing at the sprocket? What about the repop adjustment. Cone  with the smaller height. Does that affect anything.  I keep taking mine apart first to remove grease I had slathered over everything then to correctly position spring+ disc.  Now braking has improved although the drive sequence has improved it still isn't. Immediate as the ins info recommends. Finally I ordered another spring and a pair of the little c shaped rings that drive the forward motion of the wheel. I put a little oil.on the drum where the inner expanders are in contact.




Modern grease is a totally different beast than what was used originally. The old method of thick grease for bearings and oil for the brakes were the norm. Bendix and Morrows run and brake great with just good grease on everything. No way to oil a bendix red-band but they run and brake well with just grease. New D still needs that motor oil via port or it will drag (if you use grease) and defeat their purpose - smooth running with decent braking on flat ground. Morrows are bit fussy but run really smoothly when setup propertly and are better suited to long periods of braking (bigger hills). 

I'll post up some Morrow rebuild info that should help.


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## Autocycleplane (May 31, 2017)




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## buickmike (May 31, 2017)

THANKS AGAIN


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## fordmike65 (Jun 1, 2017)

Autocycleplane said:


> View attachment 475127 View attachment 475128 View attachment 475129 View attachment 475126



Awesome info! Thanks for posting.


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## Natscum (Jun 1, 2017)

Thanks Eric..that has once again been most helpful. I feel like I finished Morrow 101 and you took me to Morrow 201!


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## Natscum (Jun 1, 2017)

Another mystery solved. My hub didn't look like the pictures or diagrams. So, I pulled apart my other hub and found that what I assumed was two pieces...is actually one.


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## ABC Services (Jun 1, 2017)

This is from an original Morrow service pamphlet



 .


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## rustjunkie (Jun 1, 2017)

Isn't grease oil with a thickening agent added?


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## Natscum (Jun 1, 2017)

Ha...I'm not going there Scott. Thanks to all who have me doing this correctly.


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## fordmike65 (Jun 1, 2017)

Natscum said:


> Another mystery solved. My hub didn't look like the pictures or diagrams. So, I pulled apart my other hub and found that what I assumed was two pieces...is actually one.
> 
> View attachment 475228



I've heard that when this happens, it's worn out.


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## kreika (Feb 23, 2018)

Autocycleplane said:


> View attachment 475127 View attachment 475128 View attachment 475129 View attachment 475126




Great guide!!!! Any chance you could post page 24 for the rest of assembly? Please and thank you!!!! Tackling my first Morrow......


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## Autocycleplane (Feb 23, 2018)

kreika said:


> Great guide!!!! Any chance you could post page 24 for the rest of assembly? Please and thank you!!!! Tackling my first Morrow......




Just do steps 1-8 on page 22 in reverse. Use fresh ball bearings. Ditch the carrier on the small bearing on the driver and pack in as many loose balls that will fit with enough room in between to roll smooth. That little one is always the first to go south on me, the extras really help extend the service interval.


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## kreika (Feb 23, 2018)

Autocycleplane said:


> Just do steps 1-8 on page 22 in reverse. Use fresh ball bearings. Ditch the carrier on the small bearing on the driver and pack in as many loose balls that will fit with enough room in between to roll smooth. That little one is always the first to go south on me, the extras really help extend the service interval.




Cool thanks!!! I have it all to together with out any internet help but it still feels loose. Gonna do it correctly per those instructions. I did first step last,  is most likely my problem....try again.


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## buickmike (Apr 2, 2019)

Lets go to next step.If I'm using new drum but am forced to remove internal expanders at either end of old drum. Any advise on how to R&R without destroying vintage parts? The actual wheel is OG 37 Schwinn wheelset /- front drum. Although I took brake clutch off a 39 morrow the expanders were a mix of one side had the pins the other side had the nubs


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## buickmike (Apr 3, 2019)

Needle nose vise grips. Thanks for your help autocycleplane


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## mr.cycleplane (Apr 4, 2019)

eric nails it-ditch the oil and use only grease. phil woods grease is the new tech grease and an excellent choice. i'm old fashion and use a white bearings grease(old fashion thick brown bearing grease will not lubricate as well). also I service my morrows at least once a year or after a trail like mt. tam ride-changed again(a ride like that and the grease burns (breaks down)anyway). I run morrow exclusively on all my bikes. I pack my hubs full of white grease on assembly and grease gun through the hole till I hear it pop out the sides(in essence-I fill the hub completely with white grease-doesn't hurt or hinder performance). when it heats up the grease thins out so much it might as well be oil. and there is some oozing out the side of surplus grease which is easily cleaned. upon disassembly I check for pits. any pits and that part is discarded. a pit left 'un-attended' will 'grow' and you will feel an annoying vibration throughout the bike. proper maintenance and correct adjustment(eric even stressed this point) pays off.


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## buickmike (Apr 4, 2019)

Spent a lot of $ on ND stuff. 2 complete hubs .A couple bare new hubs.etc. Now if this morrow should spin better I will have to relace another wheel. The wheels I had on my 37 were  laced\ NOS spokes. But hoops were M.O. stamped. Rather than leave OG 37 wheelset        in attic- I'll reunite them with a motorbike.And I'll put the rims(M.O.) stamped on a 48 straightbar.


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## mr.cycleplane (Apr 4, 2019)

buickmike said:


> Spent a lot of $ on ND stuff. 2 complete hubs .A couple bare new hubs.etc. Now if this morrow should spin better I will have to relace another wheel. The wheels I had on my 37 were  laced\ NOS spokes. But hoops were M.O. stamped. Rather than leave OG 37 wheelset        in attic- I'll reunite them with a motorbike.And I'll put the rims(M.O.) stamped on a 48 straightbar.




in my opinion.....any change(or costs) from a new departure to a morrow is money well spent. morrows tend to be more-cost wise. you will be much happier with the morrow installed on your bike. one of morrow's catchy lines was 'ride all day/coast half way'.  my experience with the new departure years ago was-if you didn't keep them oiled up-it was like riding with the brakes dragging. forward motion on the morrow and the brakes are completely dis-engaged. you'll be so happy riding a morrow-you'll probably equip all your bikes with one!


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## PCHiggin (Apr 4, 2019)

buickmike said:


> Spent a lot of $ on ND stuff. 2 complete hubs .A couple bare new hubs.etc. Now if this morrow should spin better I will have to relace another wheel. The wheels I had on my 37 were  laced\ NOS spokes. But hoops were M.O. stamped. Rather than leave OG 37 wheelset        in attic- I'll reunite them with a motorbike.And I'll put the rims(M.O.) stamped on a 48 straightbar.



MO stands for Murray Ohio


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## buickmike (Apr 27, 2019)

Complications with this drum from bicycle bones; Looks like I saved some $ over Scott MC.  But the cheaper drum turned out to be used drum -NOS ( new old scotch tape) covering the wear. Looks like ill have to use hubs scored from Mr Hughes.  Same guy who sold me motorbike tank.


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## buickmike (Mar 27, 2022)

The hub bought as core contained brake drum with a

  crack in it.  Now I'm looking for a good used drum for morrow again. . Although there are hubs on the bay, I  feel the same problems would affect them as well.


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## mr.cycleplane (Mar 27, 2022)

The later 'drum' as you are calling it-the brake sleeve with serrations have a 'used' look to them when new. the lines are added after the bronze shoes are put on. there are low spots on the pads that look very much like 'wear' but they are nos! the early sleeves(smooth shoes) also have a worn look-even when new. i think they 'turned' them to a certain size to fit the hubs-just an observation. those early inserts with pins can be replaced with pop-in type. the fit is actually better-not as sloppy. and change the clutch pieces to the new type with small teeth(the two half moon pieces).


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## buickmike (Mar 27, 2022)

Mr. Cycleplane, thanks for reply always appreciate some valued input. Unfortunately for me I tossed  the unit original to my wheelset. Upon receipt of new part.  Now I bought drop center pair dated for 46+ and before I disassemble to grease I would like to have brake drum on standby.. PM me if you can let one go. Someone mentioned welding as emergency repair/ so I'll try that.   Now the "spacer" to restore lost motion - How to is that placed in unit?


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## mr.cycleplane (Mar 27, 2022)

i have a sleeve-pm me/details.     https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/poor-braking-with-morrow-prewar-hub.184792/page-6#post-1331875

re-welding the sleeve is not an option. the cast iron is hard and has a built in 'flex' to allow expand/contract effect. if any cracks-toss it out-its done.


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## buickmike (Apr 20, 2022)

Spending a lot of time on these old hubs. In this episode bought set off bay, Schwinn script front 46 code morrow rear. Rear spokes froze


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## buickmike (May 6, 2022)

Now the double drop roadmaster -morrow-  upgrade.


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