# Mystery bike



## rusty_apache (Mar 7, 2018)

I always thought it was a Schwinn racer because of the chain ring and the lack of truss rods. However it’s a twin bar and the headbadge holes are positioned horizontally. 

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/prewar-racer-bits.99062/#post-639378

Any help identifying the year and manufacturer would be appreciated.


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## Freqman1 (Mar 7, 2018)

rusty_apache said:


> I always thought it was a Schwinn racer because of the chain ring and the lack of truss rods. However it’s a twin bar and the headbadge holes are positioned horizontally.
> 
> https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/prewar-racer-bits.99062/#post-639378
> 
> Any help identifying the year and manufacturer would be appreciated.



See my post on your other thread. V/r Shawn


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## rusty_apache (Mar 10, 2018)

Freqman1 said:


> See my post on your other thread. V/r Shawn





Thanks again, the clues helped but I don’t think this was ever a fully appointed motobike. 

After looking at catalogs, and stripping the top layer of black spray paint I have come to believe that this is possibly a H9SD. I could not find an image of the H9 to see how they were configured. I would like to find an image of another 1930 headbadge to see if the right hand mounting hole is also slightly higher as well. 

Being an H9SD would account for the lack of a truss fork in combination with the second top tube. The special delivery only came in Black and that is the first layer on the frame, unless Westfield used black primer.
Then again maybe it was a base model sold under different badging. I realize it’s not particularly valuable. It’s just interesting to learn the history of it. 
I changed the seat, pedals and bars and rode it until the tubes blew yesterday. The original plan was to go back to wooden rims but with the benefit of your information it’s definitely better not to invest a ton of money into it. I just ordered some 590-37 tires and will strip off the  remaining hideous rattle can paint. There doesn’t appear to be enough black paint on it so I will probably just paint it black again and enjoy it. Thankfully the rattle can helped to preserve some of the chrome. Also the 1930 catalogue suggests it was the first year for chrome plating.


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## rusty_apache (Mar 20, 2018)

Update
The first coat of paint was blue so it must be an H9 if it is even a Columbia.
I left on what was there and treated it with home made waxoyl. The saddle leather still needs a slight trim. Bars mounted upside down look really cool, but I’m going for comfort.
It rides nicely only the C model hub occasionally slips, but stops well.


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## rusty_apache (Mar 23, 2018)

So I acquired a nice1930 Columbia head badge and it’s definitely not a match so this is definitely a Westfield Bicycle. Of course I want to try to identify it even though it’s a long shot. The Columbia badge holes measure 1-13/16”.
I’m thinking Hartford or Seminole?

The horizontal rivet holes are 1-11/32” (or round up to 1-3/8”).
The right hand hole is 1/16” higher than the left.
The ghosting of the old badge measures 2-3/8 high and probably 1-1/2” wide.







Here’s how the seat turned out....


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## fat tire trader (Mar 24, 2018)

rusty_apache said:


> So I acquired a nice1930 Columbia head badge and it’s definitely not a match so this is definitely a Westfield Bicycle. Of course I want to try to identify it even though it’s a long shot. The Columbia badge holes measure 1-13/16”.
> I’m thinking Hartford or Seminole?
> 
> The horizontal rivet holes are 1-11/32” (or round up to 1-3/8”).
> ...



My Seminole badge has vertical holes. I think that Columbia badge hole spacing may have changed over the years.


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## fat tire trader (Apr 10, 2018)

How did you go about replacing the leather on the saddle?


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## rusty_apache (Apr 10, 2018)

fat tire trader said:


> How did you go about replacing the leather on the saddle?




It’s much like replacing the vellum on a banjo. You stretch it and rivet it while wet and it tightens when it dries. 
The leather wasn’t original so I made my own template out of newspaper and already had the leather and copper rivets on hand. I attempted to copy an old Brooks because that’s what the loop frame looks like. 
It’s important to install the nose first on this type of saddle because the tension bolt interferes with the riveting process. 

I put a light coat of oxblood on it followed by another one in Marine black.


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