# Project Hawthorne De Luxe: Putting a 100 year old bicycle on the road for $100



## cbustapeck (Jul 7, 2020)

I like demonstrating that really cool stuff can be done without a lot of money. In my experience, a combination of time (sometimes lots of it) and figuring out materials that work *almost* as well.

Further, I want to mess around with an early bike, and it doesn't seem possible to get anything earlier that looks sufficiently interesting to me within my budget.

The idea: I will get a 1920 (ish)* bicycle on the road, in 30 days, for a maximum of $100. Further, said bicycle will include whatever accessories were shipped with it from the factory. This is not going to be a perfect bike, but a solid rider, one that can be improved, if so desired, over time. I especially like the idea of this challenge because the usual obstacles with bicycles that have 28 inch wheels is the cost of the wheels, often into the hundreds of dollars. 

*The frame and sprocket are consistent with the 1916 and 1917 Montgomery Ward catalogs. The seat and paint: 1920 and later. The frame design may have been used later as well.

With all that said, here is the bicycle in question:





It needs, in no particular order:

Cleaning
Wash
Use rubbing / polishing compound on paint, if possible
Polish chrome

Maintenance
Clean and lubricate head tube bearings
Clean and lubricate crank bearings

Grips
Pedals
Chain
Wheels
Front
Obtain and install
Eventually obtain more appropriate axel hardware

Rear
Rebuild coaster brake
Build wheel

Paint both?

Tool roll
Measure and create template
Fabricate and install

Seat
Clean, adjust, etc
Fabricate and install cover

Drop stand
Fabricate stand
Fabricate brackets for stand (These are separate pieces, unlike most bikes of the era.)
Fabricate fender clip

Skirt guards
Fabricate / repurpose bracket for right side to match left
Obtain and install appropriate material


I will be keeping a running total of costs. The next post will be an unboxing.

Some reference imagery:



Montgomery Ward 1916 Catalog




1917 Montgomery Ward bicycle catalog, from Nostalgic.net




Montgomery Ward 1920 catalog.  Note the shamrock sprocket.


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## Barto (Jul 7, 2020)

What a cool thread...really looking forward to seeing you do this.  

Good Luck,

BART


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## Balloonoob (Jul 7, 2020)

Looking forward to seeing end result myself. This will take some careful budgeting and maneuvering. Where's the back wheel? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...BMAB6BAgEEAM&usg=AOvVaw1-onzv7eT33LPkX99owaBR


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## cbustapeck (Jul 7, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> Looking forward to seeing end result myself. This will take some careful budgeting and maneuvering. Where's the back wheel? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dHPnUPFcxdE&ved=2ahUKEwjGiq_cyLvqAhWOWM0KHWS5CbkQwqsBMAB6BAgEEAM&usg=AOvVaw1-onzv7eT33LPkX99owaBR



Um, that's a surprisingly accurate description of my budget. 

I do have a hub that I am in the process of rebuilding. As for a rim and tire, well, it involves modern parts and definitely has the potential to be upgraded with better parts in the future. Now, if someone wanted to trade be a decent rim and tire for some Schwinn Dia-Compe and Weinmann parts, I certainly wouldn't say "no".


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## Archie Sturmer (Jul 7, 2020)

> a 1920 (ish)* bicycle



*The darts on fort and frame look like the picture on the other thread; and the Snyder fork crown.


			https://thecabe.com/forum/attachments/1932-dolly-varden-png.1224361/
		

Also, note the shipping-from location, (in bold font in the ad/other thread); not a Chicago Schamrock product. 

Missing the Snyder serial number (when received)?


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## cbustapeck (Jul 7, 2020)

Archie Sturmer said:


> *The darts on fort and frame look like the picture on the other thread; and the fork crown.
> 
> 
> https://thecabe.com/forum/attachments/1932-dolly-varden-png.1224361/
> ...



Could you kindly illuminate me as to the meaning of the shipping-from location? I think there's something I'm missing.

As for the darts on the frame and fork, they are a little bit visible in the 1920 ad, above, if you look closely. They are slightly more visible in this 1921 catalog.

Once significant difference I see in the later bike is the shape of the front fender - the curve at the end does not seem to be present in this model.

Finally, regarding the fork crown, I look forward to learning more there.

If there's something I am missing here, please say so. I know that while I know a good bit, that there is so much in the universe to learn.


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## vincev (Jul 7, 2020)

I really like the outline form of what has to be done.Reminded me of school.Great project.


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## Balloonoob (Jul 7, 2020)

Does the 100 dollar limit include the cost of the "bicycle in question"? So how much do you have into it before the cleaning maintenance and missing parts building and acquisition?


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## cbustapeck (Jul 8, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> Does the 100 dollar limit include the cost of the "bicycle in question"? So how much do you have into it before the cleaning maintenance and missing parts building and acquisition?




It could, though it would be tough. Like, I have to be able to do everything with the parts bicycles I have already acquired and I'm still 50 cents over budget level tough. 

How so cheaply? I contacted the seller when the bicycle was first offered for sale, and expressed how much I liked it, and would like to get it on the road again, but it just was not in my budget right now. After some time, he offered it to me for the cost of shipping, $50. How could I say "no"?

My plan was to do the project for $100 over the purchase price, but your idea is definitely tempting.


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## Balloonoob (Jul 8, 2020)

cbustapeck said:


> It could, though it would be tough. Like, I have to be able to do everything with the parts bicycles I have already acquired and I'm still 50 cents over budget level tough.
> 
> How so cheaply? I contacted the seller when the bicycle was first offered for sale, and expressed how much I liked it, and would like to get it on the road again, but it just was not in my budget right now. After some time, he offered it to me for the cost of shipping, $50. How could I say "no"?
> 
> My plan was to do the project for $100 over the purchase price, but your idea is definitely tempting.



Oh ok  well 150 total into it would still be impressive. Cool that someone got you started for cost of shipping.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 10, 2020)

The unboxing!













Note that the chain guard is in two pieces, riveted together. It is the same shade of blue as the frame. It has just oxidized heavily.





This seat is in the same style as the ones that I have been able to uncover in  the available literature. 







Fenders are the same shade of blue as the rest of the bike. Braces, however, are black.








Note  the paint that was not exposed. This is the color that the bike will clean up to, I hope.






Virtually all plating is gone from the seat post. The sprocket is slightly bent. I am thinking that some very careful work with a sheet metal brake might be in order.




I am unsure if the stem is original. It is much more clean than the rest of the bike. I would appreciate any insights here.









Handlebar detail.














I have not been able to find a serial number on the bottom bracket or elsewhere. Are there any obvious places I might be missing?


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## Balloonoob (Jul 10, 2020)

Killer start there.  Trying to get it done soon? Hit up a local swap.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 10, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> Killer start there.  Trying to get it done soon? Hit up a local swap.



I didn’t realize that there were still swap meets happening. Also, don’t they usually require either money something to swap?


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## Balloonoob (Jul 10, 2020)

There are swaps happening here. I'm sure there are some in Cleveland. You have a budget, remember? 100 dollars.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 10, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> There are swaps happening here. I'm sure there are some in Cleveland. You have a budget, remember? 100 dollars.



You seriously think that I haven’t blown my entire budget already?

You would be right. I have $8 left.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 11, 2020)

This, and the next couple progress updates, will mostly be about the research and assembling of parts. I've been a bit too aggressive with the hammer, anvil, and angle grinder, as well as with other household things, and my arm is screaming "Hey, stop doing stuff. Don't do anything at all! Give me a break!" and so I am going to give it that. 

I have purchased two lots of two parts bicycles on eBay for this project. There were tons of good parts left, so I am only counting half of the purchase price toward the budget.


Hawthorne purchase cost (shipping)51.2551.25(Parts bicycles) 2 VINTAGE SCHWINN CONTINENTAL 10-speed bikes33.480.516.74(Parts bicycles) 2 Vintage Schwinn Collegiate Breeze Bikes37.80.518.9Buffing wheels (2)2.372.37cut off wheel (1)1.51.5leather, on hand (using fair market value)3393.76


The seller of the pair of Schwinn Collegiate bicycles had the complete Elgin hub (sprocket only shown here) in a box of parts, and he gave me it for the asking. I am in the process of rebuilding it. A New Departure (or perhaps Majestic, depending on the year) would be correct, but it doesn't have a major effect on the appearance, especially as the chrome is completely gone from the brake arm, and it is the best that can be done in budget. 




The saddle shows evidence of having been brown originally. 




I could do it in brown, and if I were going to be altering the original material in any way, I would. My plan is to use this leather, cut it oversized, and lace it in place underneath, where it will not show. I made this choice because I think it will go well with the cream accents on the bicycle paint. I don't see this as a budget issue, as I have brown scrap leather on hand, too, so my out of pocket expense would be the same.




Both of these sets of pedals came from the parts bicycles. The ones on the left are similar to some available as upgrade accessories in a couple Montgomery Ward catalogs from the late teens and early twenties, while the metal ones are more similar in spirit, but less in aesthetic, to the ones that would have actually been installed on the bicycle. I'm inclined toward the rubber ones, for comfort.




Finally, stems. The one on the left came with the bicycle. While the one on the left came with the bicycle, I'm a little skeptical that it is original, solely because the chrome is in much better shape than the rest of the bike. The one on the right is from one of the parts bicycles. The basic form appeared period, so I took an angle grinder to it and ground off the manufacturer's name. More filing and polishing would be needed before use. While it can be secured in place, it isn't the right size, which would probably cause long term problems.

As an aside, I think that it is really cool that the one on the left attaches to the fork and secures the handlebars with a single bolt. 




As always, I appreciate any insights or thoughts you may have.


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## Balloonoob (Jul 12, 2020)

Wow. The price sure went up a lot in 4 years based on the catalog pictures above. What's the difference between the roadster model and coaster brake model? I would go with the stem on the left. Looks cool and period. I'm sure you'll find a use for the other on a future project. Pretty cool you found the twin for it too.  Dontcha just love the cabe?


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## cbustapeck (Jul 12, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> Wow. The price sure went up a lot in 4 years based on the catalog pictures above. What's the difference between the roadster model and coaster brake model? I would go with the stem on the left. Looks cool and period. I'm sure you'll find a use for the other on a future project. Pretty cool you found the twin for it too.  Dontcha just love the cabe?



Actually, it is almost a triplet! There's this Princeton, but there's also this Black Beauty badged bicycle that is a near match.

The price item is curious, because they dropped the following year. 

One really interesting thing that I noticed today is that there is no evidence of a drop stand having ever been mounted - including no clip on the fender. One less thing to fabricate!


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## Balloonoob (Jul 12, 2020)

"One curious detail: I note that the little bracket, for the skirt guard, right above the rear axle on the left side is present on the left side of your bike but missing on the right. The same is the case for mine.".    Looks like there's a hole there for one though? Seems like this would be an easy enough thing to fabricate. I bet someone has one that's been sitting in a parts bin for years. Although I doubt you will be wearing a skirt while riding the skirt guard adds a cool dynamic to the bike.               Kinda nice the bike seems to not have had a dropstand - although I was curious as to how a fabricated dropstand and clip would have turned out.                    Have fun and continue enjoying this build!


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## tech549 (Jul 12, 2020)

these older 28 inch bikes did have dropstands,only the clip that held the stand up was attached to the stand itself not the fender,they are hard ones to find.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 12, 2020)

tech549 said:


> these older 28 inch bikes did have dropstands,only the clip that held the stand up was attached to the stand itself not the fender,they are hard ones to find.



I didn't know that. I assumed based on the 1916 and 1917 illustrations that they had just come without. More research to do!


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## cbustapeck (Jul 12, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> "One curious detail: I note that the little bracket, for the skirt guard, right above the rear axle on the left side is present on the left side of your bike but missing on the right. The same is the case for mine.".    Looks like there's a hole there for one though? Seems like this would be an easy enough thing to fabricate. I bet someone has one that's been sitting in a parts bin for years. Although I doubt you will be wearing a skirt while riding the skirt guard adds a cool dynamic to the bike.               Kinda nice the bike seems to not have had a dropstand - although I was curious as to how a fabricated dropstand and clip would have turned out.                    Have fun and continue enjoying this build!



It was actually included in the little bag of hardware that the seller included. The skirt guard is definitely happening. As for a skirt, if my readership really insists, I'll shoot some photos wearing one on the bike - if they can find a period-styled skirt and blouse that can fit my 6'8", 230 pound frame. 

The drop stand is still on my radar. A big part of what happens next depends on whether I end up bringing home the worst Schwinn Circuit on eBay.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 12, 2020)

Speaking of hardware, what is the proper name for this little bolt? This one looks rather chewed, and I would be much more comfortable if I could replace it.


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## Balloonoob (Jul 12, 2020)

cbustapeck said:


> Speaking of hardware, what is the proper name for this little bolt? This one looks rather chewed, and I would be much more comfortable if I could replace it.
> 
> View attachment 1227673



Chain tensioner bolt. Shouldn't be too hard to find i imagine.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 13, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> Wow. The price sure went up a lot in 4 years based on the catalog pictures above. What's the difference between the roadster model and coaster brake model? I would go with the stem on the left. Looks cool and period. I'm sure you'll find a use for the other on a future project. Pretty cool you found the twin for it too.  Dontcha just love the cabe?



It's my understanding that the roadster is what we would call today a fixed wheel bike.


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## bricycle (Jul 13, 2020)

What do you need left and what did you use the parts bikes for other than rear hub?


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## cbustapeck (Jul 13, 2020)

bricycle said:


> What do you need left and what did you use the parts bikes for other than rear hub?



What do I need left? That's a good question.

I think I have all the parts to do the bicycle in budget, ish. I wouldn't say "no" to a trade for period-styled grips or a period front axle, but given that I don't know who made the front axle as of yet, that seems a moot point. 

I suspect that once I have the bicycle moving, that a certain number of little things will break and will have to be dealt with.

The biggest thing I need at the moment is data. I haven't found period literature that shows a bicycle with the same frame, paint scheme, and fenders. Once I have that, moving forward with any missing pieces will be easier. 

I know, at present, that the frame is physically different from the one illustrated in the 1920, 1921, and 1922 Montgomery Ward catalogs. (They do, however, The 1916 and 1917 Montgomery Ward catalogs have the same frame and many details, but the paint is a solid color and the fork is different. The 1932 catalog shows a similar frame, but the fenders are wrong. 

If not for the single brace between the bottom tube and the top tube, and the different color, I would say that this 1921 Hawthorne is the closest match. The headbadge matches, as does the seat. The paint scheme is identical, but in a different color. The fork appears the same. The sprocket, however, appears to be a Schwinn one, rather than the Snyder / Harris one on my bike. The fenders are almost the same, save that the front in the catalog has a mud flap. If I could learn more, I could do a better job of getting the bike back on the road as it was.

As for parts used:

pedals
grips
axles front and rear
frame pieces to make drop stand and brackets
all sorts of hardware for assembly
minor brackets
all those little $10 things that add up when you don't have a parts stash.
I had planned to use the tires, wheels, and spokes, but then a bicycle with 700c wheels came up cheap, and I could not resist. However, if I cannot sell enough off of said bike to bring the costs down to zero, I may have to resort to using the wheels from the parts bikes. Further, I had planned to use a stem from one of the bikes, but I'm thinking now that the existing one is more correct.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 13, 2020)

Another very similar bicycle, collection of Wheels of the Past antique bicycle museum.





Also, there's a ton of information in the Black Beauty / Hawthorne DeLuxe thread, but nothing I feel 100% solid on.

I think I may just go with the model that I like the most, so long as I don't mess up original material.


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## SKPC (Jul 13, 2020)

If you really want to dig deeper into the maker(DPH/Snyder) and/or year further, the area where your serial number is shown below. If you scrape away the thick black paint you should find it.  Be aware that many abhor this act on the very desirable bikes, but this is not really one. Up to you.


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## bricycle (Jul 13, 2020)

fyi, the deeper fenders like yours were not used until about 1920


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## cbustapeck (Jul 13, 2020)

SKPC said:


> If you really want to dig deeper into the maker(DPH/Snyder) and/or year further, the area where your serial number is shown below. If you scrape away the thick black paint you should find it.  Be aware that many abhor this act on the very desirable bikes, but this is not really one. Up to you.
> View attachment 1228301



So, I thought there was nothing. This is what I got.





It’s actually a blue, by the way. It is cleaning up nicely in spots.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 13, 2020)

cbustapeck said:


> So, I thought there was nothing. This is what I got.
> 
> View attachment 1228326
> It’s actually a blue, by the way. It is cleaning up nicely in spots.



Yes, I know I scraped off too much paint. I just felt like there had to be something there I was missing.


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## Andrew Gorman (Jul 13, 2020)

Rub some aluminum foil over the area- some ghost numbers might show up.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 13, 2020)

Andrew Gorman said:


> Rub some aluminum foil over the area- some ghost numbers might show up.



Am I trying to get them to show up on the foil or is the foil acting as a mild abrasive?


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## Andrew Gorman (Jul 14, 2020)

The numbers  may show up more clearly on the foil when you rub it down over the faint impressions on the bottom bracket.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 14, 2020)

I’ve begun going at the paint with rubbing compound, and the results are amazing. What appeared to be black is a wonderful deep blue. The yellowish cream is a bright white. This bike is going to look great once I am done working on the paint.





I am thinking about painting the wheels white with blue pinstriping, but am going to wait a bit to make that call. It will be a nice contrast, I think.


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## bricycle (Jul 14, 2020)

Maybe show us what parts you plan to use for this project, as maybe we have better parts you could use, and you could re sell what you already have to keep her at $100.00
I think I have a nice seat for your project... pm me your addr so I can see what shipping might cost.
Ps; I would use the early stem, or if you need a crudier one maybe we could trade. Don't be in to big a hurry to get her together.... we(the CABE) might have some good parts for you.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 14, 2020)

Andrew Gorman said:


> The numbers  may show up more clearly on the foil when you rub it down over the faint impressions on the bottom bracket.



I tried that, but, alas, nothing. I also played around a bit with adjusting the levels, etc, without a ton of luck. Any thoughts as to why the serial number would have been done so badly? Does this have anything to do with the finish quality of that area? (Yes, some of those scratches are mine, but most were original, concealed under paint.)


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## Balloonoob (Jul 14, 2020)

That's a stolen bike. Someone must have scratched off the serial numbers. Send it back to me after you finish up with the rubbing compound.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 14, 2020)

bricycle said:


> Maybe show us what parts you plan to use for this project, as maybe we have better parts you could use, and you could re sell what you already have to keep her at $100.00
> I think I have a nice seat for your project... pm me your addr so I can see what shipping might cost.
> Ps; I would use the early stem, or if you need a crudier one maybe we could trade. Don't be in to big a hurry to get her together.... we(the CABE) might have some good parts for you.



I really hadn't thought about doing that, because I didn't have any money left in my budget, but that would be so appreciated. This is really a great community. 

I'm going to work on a list of all the parts that I have available. I'd be willing to trade off the couple bicycles that I have on offer, too, if I could get the cash that I have into them back. (It isn't much.)

*Big big announcement:*
My plan for bringing this project in within budget had been to use a set of 27 x 1 1/2 wheels. Yes, they wouldn't fit the openings as well as correct wheels might, but it would get the bicycle on the road. Yes, this was my super secret way of bringing it in for $100. Now, that has changed.

Tomorrow, I will be picking up this 1988ish Schwinn Circuit, which I won on eBay for $110.70. It *should* have 700c wheels. My plan was to use the tires, rims, and spokes, and sell off the remainder to break even. If it is as shipped, it should have the Shimano Santé parts set. (Going by eBay prices, definitely $110 of parts, I think.) I would definitely be game to trade it for the cash I have in plus a slightly more correct rim and tire set, if one were so inclined. I don't like the idea of breaking up a bike, but I also have no idea how bad this one might be. I'll post better photos after I have it home tomorrow evening and have verified that everything is in working order.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 15, 2020)

*I am so confused - please help!*

The resounding opinion that I have read seems to be that 700c wheels are the best alternative for 28 in. bicycles. Given this, when I had a chance to pick up a lovely, light, well equipped road bike with 700c wheels at a good price, I jumped on it. 

This afternoon, I picked up the bicycle, and just had to test fit the rims on the Hawthorne, to get some idea of how it would look. Not bad, right? 

Here's the  thing: That isn't a 700c wheel. That's a 27x1 3/8 (or maybe 1 1/2) from a random mass-market 1970s road bike.  





This is the 700c wheel from the 1987 Schwinn Circuit. The tire is flat (I don't have a Presta adapter on hand right now) but even so, it doesn't fit the wheel well as well as the 27 x 1 3/8 one. 




Could someone please explain to be what is going on here?  I mean, like, why would one spend the money for 700c wheels when 27 x 1 3/8 ones are available in spades? I feel like there's something major that I'm missing here, and feel a bit foolish for having just dropped money on a bike that I don't really need. The only think I can figure out is that people go for 700c wheels for 28 in bicycles because there are some frames where a 27 x whatever wheel does not fit?

Anyway, here's Sarah, the 1987 Schwinn Circuit in question. She's a lovely, nimble, well equipped thing, but one that is well worn enough that you can ride the heck out of. Did I get $110 of bicycle for my $110? Absolutely. Do I feel compelled to keep her? Not really.


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## GTs58 (Jul 15, 2020)




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## Archie Sturmer (Jul 15, 2020)

I believe it may have to do with both wheels and tires.  A 1+3/8” wide tire may be about the widest available for a 27” wheel.  For 622mm wheels there are more options.  For replacing old 28 x 1.5” wood wheels, I like the 622mm x 40-42mm tire size, or about 1.5-1.6”.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 16, 2020)

Archie Sturmer said:


> I believe it may have to do with both wheels and tires.  A 1+3/8” wide tire may be about the widest available for a 27” wheel.  For 622mm wheels there are more options.  For replacing old 28 x 1.5” wood wheels, I like the 622mm x 40-42mm tire size, or about 1.5-1.6”.



I had no idea that there was so much variability in the size of 700c tires! My plan had been to keep the tires that were on the 700c wheels, as new tires were not in the budget for this project. Given that, I will be moving the Schwinn Circuit on. Thank you!


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## cbustapeck (Jul 16, 2020)

bricycle said:


> What do you need left and what did you use the parts bikes for other than rear hub?




What I could really really need right now is historical information, namely, photographs of the bicycle pages from Montgomery Ward catalogs from 1923-30. 

This research, for me, is super important. I have all the parts to complete the bike based on what I can see. Yes, some parts are more recent than the build of the bike, but I feel that if I am going to do the effort to seek out period parts, they need to be correct. 

As of right now, I haven't been able to exactly match up the bicycle with anything in a catalog. Any help in this direction would be so appreciated.


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## Balloonoob (Jul 16, 2020)

I went online looking for modern 28'' bike wheels with a coaster brake thinking I could put an ichibike cog on them easy enough.
I could not find anything that I deemed affordable
also did not like the look of many of the wheels that could be sent to me from China.
Watching videos on tire sizes on youtube (700cc vs 28 inch) or that these sizes are the same........all of it just left me confused.
If you want some REAL old wheels you might just have to get OLD wheels. Then good luck finding the right rubber for them.


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## bricycle (Jul 16, 2020)

The least expensive 28's you probably find will be the 28" Raleigh wheel sets... you may find a Sturmey Archer 3-speed with a coaster brake, but most were without brake. about the cheapest you will find these for is $100 a pair, not including shipping. 700c wheels are your next bet with 350-400 tires which will be around 1.5" wide or so like the old ones. real usable wood will be $100+ a wheel and $100+ a tire. Plus a 100 year old rim with a 230 lb rider will probably end in disaster sooner than later anyway. Noah Stutsman(sp) does make new rims, but also not cheap.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 16, 2020)

Build  progress:

It's amazing what a wire wheel can do to bring a rim back. 




I also cleaned and rebuilt this hub for the front wheel. Progress! 




I was able to remove these from one of the donor bicycles without damaging them, finally. They're among the parts that I am offering for trade, now that I've realized *that there is something that I genuinely need for this project - a pair of functional 27 x 1 3/8 tires* that don't have yellow/orange sidewalls. I'm willing to consider all black, or black with white sidewalls or any number of other things. (If you aren't interested in trading, but have a fair used set, I can cover shipping, too.)





Big trade offer: For a *great* set of tires, I'd consider trading the 1939 Cleveland Welding Company bike I have on offer, if  you would cover shipping. 

Also available for trade: anything from this big lot of Schwinn stuff; a 1953 Schwinn tank with horn; and everything pictured below.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 20, 2020)

The crank has been polished, polished some more, and is ready to go!





Remember what it looked like when I received it? Some of this is dirt / grease, and some of the nickle plating polished up nicely, but a lot of what I did was polishing the rusted metal until it shined. I used a combination of a polishing disc on an angle grinder, various Dremel bits, and a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. To finish, I applied several coats of automotive wax, to protect the exposed metal.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 21, 2020)

*The research, oh, the research.*

First, it's worth looking at the long and detailed thread, Who made "Black Beauty" badged bikes??? and Mont. Wards "De Luxe". It's also worth consulting Just Bought A Black Beauty...I Think... Both illustrate a couple of bicycles that are close to identical, but as yet undated.

I've been working on a detailed spreadsheet relating to bicycles that may have been made by the same manufacturer as well as similar bicycles. It's worth a look. Or something.

The biggest differentiation among models, within the Hawthorne lineup, is the presence of either two braces between the top tube and the bottom tube, as is the case with mine, or one. The 1916, 1917, and 1918 Hawthorne models all have two bars, as does the 1920 Rollfast, perhaps using the same frame. (I do not have data for 1919.)

Hawthorne switched to a single brace between the top and bottom tube in 1920, and continued this into 1921, 1922, and 1923-24. In the last two, it was sold as the "Dolly Varden".

One of the challenges is that I have yet to locate a Hawthorne bicycle of this period marketed for women described as a "De Luxe" - a model that seems to have been reserved for bicycles marketed to men.

Front fenders that curve up at the end came into use in the late 20s, so this bicycle is before that time. This 1928 Hawthorne Flyer has a similar fork, the Mercury headbadge, and fenders with the same profile, but that curve up at the end. This can also be seen in the 1930 Columbia and 1934 Columbia.

Close matches: Princeton; American Flyer; 1920 Rollfast DeLuxe; 1919 Black Beauty; and this one, although it appears that the top tube swoops up a bit more when it meets the frame.

All of the information above boils down to this: I do not have an exact match for this bicycle in any of the literature that I have been able to obtain. I welcome and would appreciate more information. I can say reasonably that it was built either before 1920 or between 1925 and 1928, but that's about it.

-----------------------------------

The following is a work of *fiction*, upon which I am going to base the build of this bicycle. Lacking data, I'm going to go with the most interesting option that is plausible, given the data that I have. But it is just that, a story.

The bicycles for 1916 and 1917 are the closest matches to what I have. The frames, colors (but not paint schemes), sprockets, and stem are a close match, from what I can tell. The seat, fenders and forks, however, are not. The tires, grips, and wheels are an unknown.




At the factory, there was a custom build for a special customer. They started with this bicycle, with the gorgeous blue frame and wheels and white tires. It was based heavily upon the De Luxe Flyer Motorbike, using the fenders, far deeper than the standard, as were block rubber pedals and handgrips (no longer extant). The front forks came from another model, perhaps the basic model. As a DeLuxe, it would have used a New Departure coaster brake and hubs. This creation was topped off with the badge from a De Luxe. 

Again, the above is *purely a work of fiction*. However, it is the work of fiction upon which I am basing this build. 

To make this all happen, I need, right now:

Pair of 27 x 1 1/4 tires, solid white. Just need to be functional.
Chain tensioner bolts (2)
Coke bottle hand grips, either in white, beige, or dark blue
1910s or 1920s era New Departure hubs, both front and rear, rear with skip tooth hub and coaster brake. Or possibly Morrow. Or possibly just a New Departure brake arm.

If you have any that you are willing to part with on reasonable terms, or to trade with me for the many items I have mentioned previously, please let me know and help this crazy project!


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## cbustapeck (Jul 22, 2020)

Product of Paint Polishing

This is the result of a good bit of rubbing compound and elbow grease, applied gently. When the bike arrived, the paint looked like a very heavily black and cream. I was reasonably sure that what appeared black was actually blue, but I was definitely surprised when cream turned out to be white.

Some paint was lost in the process of my work, and in other areas, it was rubbed more thin than I would like. As someone who cares about preservation, I evaluated the options, considering carefully the merits of leaving the paint untouched. My conclusion was that the paint was already so heavily damaged, and the bike not that rare, so a measure that made it more like it would have originally was a reasonable choice, even though it did result in losses. 










As an aside, I have decided that the "HLP" or "HLR" on the head tube, in my personal narrative, stands for either "Hawthorne Ladies Project" or "Hawthorne Ladies Research", respectively.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 22, 2020)

Minor update:
I am shocked at the results of mineral spirits and just a few minutes scrubbing on a very grimy old chain.


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## GTs58 (Jul 22, 2020)

That was a well preserved chain!


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## cbustapeck (Jul 23, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> That was a well preserved chain!



I had no idea that this was lurking under all the grime. I figured that I would clean it well and then spend a good bit of time with it on the buffing wheel.

This chain is why I love originality. I would never have guessed that it would be a combination of blued steel and nickle plate.

Do you recognize the logo? It's a diamond with either "61" or "19" inside it.


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## Andrew Gorman (Jul 23, 2020)

Diamond #61 "old bicycle chain".


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## cbustapeck (Jul 25, 2020)

The bike is slowly coming together. I continue to be amazed by how great the paint looks.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 28, 2020)

I completed the tool roll today, thanks to a clasp from my girlfriend. I can share the details of the construction if there is interest.

I'm working on the seat. To finish the seat, it would be really nice to have another grommet like this one. The dimensions of the opening are on the wider side of 5/8 in. x a narrow 3/16 in. I will happily trade any of the items listed a few posts up.



Also on my want to trade list for this project:

axle adjustment bolts, 24 tpi, diameter unsure
a bell or something that would mount on the handlebars directly next to the neck. (There's evidence of there having been *something* there, but I know not what)
wrenches or other tools that will fit in my tool roll
an appropriate New Departure coaster brake hub - I have a Elgin one for trade.

*Ongoing research:*

Another very similar bicycle shows up in the 1922 catalog of wholesaler Hyslop Brothers, of Toronto, Canada. They list the price for Hyslop Ladies Equipment "B" as $50.00.




It appears very similar to mine, including the chain ring, handlebars and stem, seat, and chain guard. The frame geometry is a bit different, admittedly.  They also offered, for $10 more, a version with better accessories - equipment group a. It's also worth noting that the catalog includes drop-side mud guards (fenders) with what appear to be similar hardware to my own.

Am I correct in reading that the included pump would be attached to the frame? Where might it likely be attached?

The catalog of bicycles made by Davis for private brands is also interesting, especially for the selection of forks. So is this 1919 Black Beauty catalog.

I've noticed that the tech specs given in catalogs do not always match the bicycles as illustrated, so I've started taking what I see with a bit of salt.


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## SKPC (Jul 28, 2020)

Diving deep into this one eh?  Nice condition ladies Hawthorne Deluxe for sure. The chain suggests low-mile.   It is DPHarris/HPSnyder-made for sure. Thinking late teens/early 20's.. Too bad about the removed serial number..  The Hyslop above is a very different frame.


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## Balloonoob (Jul 28, 2020)

I can appreciate how deep you are diving into this bike and the many references throughout this thread. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. Unsolved mysteries can be painful huh? But that paint was like a birthday present eh?


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## cbustapeck (Jul 29, 2020)

SKPC said:


> Diving deep into this one eh?  Nice condition ladies Hawthorne Deluxe for sure. The chain suggests low-mile.   It is DPHarris/HPSnyder-made for sure. Thinking late teens/early 20's.. Too bad about the removed serial number..  The Hyslop above is a very different frame.



Thank you for all of that information.

I'm curious as to what makes you think that the serial number was removed. There was factory paint over it, which makes me think it was never there in the first place, but perhaps I am missing something. 

As a build challenge, I want to show that I can make this as close to original as reasonably possible without spending a ton of money. As a librarian and historian, I feel that the exact details of this bicycle is a question that can be reasonably answered - the details were published in print in a format that reached millions - and it bugs me that I cannot. Your comment made me think about the exact dates in question, so I decided to make a spreadsheet of all of the print listings I could find. When no further description is given for a term, like "saddle", it is a matter of whether it appears to be the same saddle as is on my bicycle. Here's the live version of the spreadsheet - I would love to add more data, if others are able to share.


CatalogYearFrame has two braces between top and bottom tubeSprocketColorColor "striped", etc.ForksFenders described as "wide"Tall fenders shown on another modelSaddleTool RollNeckHandlebarsDrop stand clip illustratedChainHead badge with MercuryHead badge with Mercury on another modelFender hardwareFender hardware shown on another modelNotesMontgomery Ward 841916YYYY?NNYYYYNN?YMontgomery Ward 851916YYYY?Y?NYYYNN??YYMontgomery Ward bicycle1917YYYN?YYNYYYN??YYYMontgomery Ward bicycle1919NNNY?NYYNNN?????Better quality of some imagesMontgomery Ward 931920NNYY?NYYYNNY?NY?YMontgomery Ward unknown1920NNYY?NYYYNNY??Y??Montgomery Ward 951921NNY* Y?NYYYNNY?YY??Montgomery Ward 971922NNNY?NYYNNNY?NY?YMontgomery Ward 1923 or 19241923N?NY?NYYNNNY?NY?YMontgomery Ward unknown1932Y?YY?YYN?Y?y?????Paint includes red striping, fender shape different

Bonus: 1919 Hawthorne Women's Model. Source: Howie Cohen's Everything Bicycles Collection.


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## bricycle (Jul 30, 2020)

nice job on the bike AND research!


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## cbustapeck (Jul 31, 2020)

*Massive update, thanks to the digital collections at the Strong Museum of Play, which include 
more than 300 high-resolution bicycle trade catalogs!!!

Librarian / research geekiness:*
So, being the librarian I am, I thought that, given there were millions of copies of the Montgomery Ward catalogs printed, I ought to be able to find them in a library. My own library didn't seem to have them for the period in question, nor did Ohiolink, which seems to have everything. Finally, I went to WorldCat, and came across occasional runs of the catalog here and there, but nothing major. Finally, the very last search result was for a gorgeous high resolution copy of this 1919 Hawthorne bicycle catalog at the Strong Museum of Play.

From there, I browsed the collection and came across three years that I had nothing for - 1926, 1927, and 1928 - as well as the lovely 1919 catalog, which will definitely be of considerable interest. Further, the wealth of high quality trade catalogs noted above do not appear to show up well in search engine results. It would be worthwhile for someone to link to them with the appropriate names and probably search keywords so that they would show up in results. I suspect that it would be better to do this in individual posts, for better search results, but I don't know the associated names of bicycles well enough to do so.

*Pictures:*
1919 Montgomery Ward bicycle catalog








1926 Montgomery Ward




1927 Montgomery Ward




1928 Montgomery Ward




1931 (or maybe 1933) Montgomery Ward




*Now, the updated spreadsheet! (data analysis follows)*


CatalogYearFrame has two braces between top and bottom tubeSprocketColorColor "striped", etc.ForksFenders described as "wide", "deep", or "tall"Tall fenders shown on another modelTall fender model in blue and whiteSaddleTool RollNeckHandlebarsDrop stand clip illustratedChain on this or another modelHead badge with MercuryHead badge with Mercury on another modelFender hardwareFender hardware shown on another modelNotesMontgomery Ward 841916YYYY?NNNYYYYNN?YMontgomery Ward 851916YYYY?Y?NNYYYNN??YYMontgomery Ward bicycle1917YYYN?YYNNYYYN??YYYMontgomery Ward bicycle1919NNNY?NYNYNNN??????Montgomery Ward 931920NNYY?NYNYYNNY?NY?YMontgomery Ward unknown1920NNYY?NYNYYNNY??Y??Montgomery Ward 951921NNY*Y?NYNYYNNY?YY??Montgomery Ward 971922NNNY?NYNYNNNY?NY?YMontgomery Ward 1923 or 19241923N?NY?NYNYNNNY?NY?YMontgomery Ward 1051926NNYNMNYY?NNMY?NY??Montgomery Ward 1061927NNYNMNYY?NNMY?NY??Montgomery Ward 19281928YNYYMYYYNNYMNYYY??Montgomery Ward 19311931YNYYMYYYNNYMY?YY??26 inch wheels on many other modelsMontgomery Ward unknown1932Y?YY?YYN?Y?Y?????Paint includes red striping, fender shape different



*Here's what I see:*
None of these bicycles exactly matches the one that I have. I am assuming that all of the major parts are original to my bicycle. I have no reason to think otherwise, but in 90+ years, a lot of things can change.

All of the data between 1919 and 1927 shows a different frame from the one I have. While it's possible that a different supplier was used during said time, I am going to assume, lacking further  data, that my bicycle was not produced during those years.

There are enough similarities in the 1916-17 lineup, as well as in the 1928 bicycle that it is hard to say whether it was built between 1916-1918 or 1928-1930. I want to believe that it was earlier, but either way, the basic concept of this restoration remains the same, as the issues with g

My next post is going to be of all of the images I have of dated Hawthorne women's bicycles, in chronological order, so that the differences may be seen.


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## cbustapeck (Jul 31, 2020)

As promised above:
All the Montgomery Ward Hawthorne bicycles for women for the time frame in question, in order for comparison purposes, with links to the sources!

Montgomery Ward 84, 1916 




Montgomery Ward 85, 1916 




Montgomery Ward bicycle, 1917 




Montgomery Ward bicycle, 1919 







Montgomery Ward 93, 1920 




Montgomery Ward unknown, 1920 




Montgomery Ward 95, 1921 




Montgomery Ward 97, 1922 




Montgomery Ward 1923 or 1924 




Montgomery Ward 105, 1926 




Montgomery Ward 106, 1927 




Montgomery Ward 1928 




Montgomery Ward 1931 




Montgomery Ward unknown, 1932


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## cbustapeck (Aug 3, 2020)

Finally, a bit of backstory for the bicycle!


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## SKPC (Aug 3, 2020)

You are certainly one talented researcher. Amazing find. Explains it all doesn't it?  I have been convinced.


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## cbustapeck (Aug 3, 2020)

SKPC said:


> You are certainly one talented researcher. Amazing find. Explains it all doesn't it?  I have been convinced.



If only the letter were real. I do apologize if I mislead. 

Fun piece of fiction, though, right?


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## SKPC (Aug 3, 2020)

Had me going!


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## cbustapeck (Aug 3, 2020)

SKPC said:


> Had me going!



Yay! 

Trust that, under scrutiny, this would reveal itself pretty quickly to be what it is. My goal was to make it as close as possible without it actually holding up if one looked closely.


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## gkeep (Aug 3, 2020)

You could type it on my TOC Fox typewriter for more vintage mojo.  (mine does not look this nice, much more patina...)


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## cbustapeck (Aug 10, 2020)

gkeep said:


> You could type it on my TOC Fox typewriter for more vintage mojo.  (mine does not look this nice, much more patina...)
> 
> View attachment 1241252



I like the idea, but worry that it might actually pass.


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## cbustapeck (Aug 10, 2020)

*And then there were five!*

I was looking at results from previous years at the Copake auction and came across another very similar bicycle! (See the last one in this sequence.)





My Hawthorne DeLuxe (in progress).




American Flyer,  collection of Wheels of the Past antique bicycle museum.




This Princeton, collection of Stonegm.




HARPO's Black Beauty.




Harvard DeLuxe, sold at Copake Auction, in 2015.


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## cbustapeck (Aug 11, 2020)

While going through my reference images, I came across a few pages from the 1918 Hawthorne bicycle catalog, shared ages ago by Chitown.





What I see is that it has the same frame and stem as the 1917, but a different sprocket. The frame changes the following year, as do the sprocket and stem. While the same style of frame is used in the late 1920s, the same sprocket is not. Further, the later frame proportions seem a bit different. 

To the best of my ability to tell, this bicycle was made about 1917. It may have been a model in a catalog that I do not have or it may have been assembled from the parts that D.P. Harris had on hand. I will happily consider evidence to the contrary.

What I do know is that, given the date, a New Departure Model A hub would be correct. (Majestic could also be correct, as it was in use in the 1916 catalog, and Atherton, as well, in the 1918 catalog.) With this knowledge, and the lovely hourglass form of the New Departure hub, as well as the aesthetic of the hardware to attach it, I decided to spend the $100 necessary to acquire one. 

Further, there's a spot on my handlebars, right next to the stem, where *something* was mounted - I don't know what. To fill this spot, I ordered a lovely Badger Solar Lamp. It's heavily tarnished, and if anyone has thoughts about how to polish the nickle plating without burning through to the brass, I would love to hear them.

This leads me to: 
*Yes, I have gone over budget, and over time as well. I'm okay with this. *

When I started this concept, I believed that it would be really cool to demonstrate that a bike of this age could be back on the road for $100, total. I still believe that this is possible, and when I am done, I will outline how one would do so. 

I didn't realize what an impressive bicycle this could be, nor the amount of energy that it would take to do it for $100. It's still totally doable, but things like polishing spokes take a ridiculous amount of time. As important, it's a bicycle that will look so much better for having spent the additional money. 

As it sits right now, I'm $365 into this project, which includes more than $100 in expenses that don't actually result in anything that I use on the bicycle. I will enumerate all of this at the close. 

It's going to be a beautiful bike when it's done, and I cannot wait to share it.


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## cbustapeck (Aug 18, 2020)

Late 1920s or early 1930s Royal Flyer - another Snyder-built bicycle in this series.

I just came across this Royal Flyer bicycle on eBay, listed by drive6969 in Southgate, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit. It is being offered at $250 plus $65 shipping. I have archived all of the images here for posterity.

This is the sixth similar bicycle that I have been able to locate. The first five are detailed here.

The frame bears the proportions of some of the later bicycles, namely, the arc and space between the top and bottom tubes. The forks do appear different, but they seem possibly similar to the same model, on a different frame, in other years.




The sprocket is very similar to the other examples, as is the chain guard, which attaches to the frame in the same spots as other examples. It's difficult to tell from the photographs whether it has the dog-leg crank that I have seen on others.










While the stem is similar to others, I cannot speak to the handlebars.






I am absolutely clueless with regard to these wheels. The profile is not the same as I have seen on the other examples. Further, the aluminum hub is not something I have seen. I would very much appreciate any insights that someone with more knowledge can provide.


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## Balloonoob (Sep 21, 2020)

Hi Chris - It is possible to get a 100 year old bicycle going for less than 100 dollars. But the key is to find a nice complete one for free and put 100 dollars into getting the wheels rolling.    Then performing lots of cleanup too.

If you get that Royal Flyer I could sure use the reflector.


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## cbustapeck (Sep 21, 2020)

Balloonoob said:


> Hi Chris - It is possible to get a 100 year old bicycle going for less than 100 dollars. But the key is to find a nice complete one for free and put 100 dollars into getting the wheels rolling.    Then performing lots of cleanup too.
> 
> If you get that Royal Flyer I could sure use the reflector.



Tempting, but no. 

I think the real trick is to be 15 years younger than I am now.


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## cbustapeck (Sep 26, 2020)

The bicycle is close to complete, but it's time for it to get to a new home. It's almost complete, and I can deliver to Memory Lane (Friday only) for the lucky new owner. All of the necessary parts have been obtained, save for spokes, nipples, and inner tubes. The rims have been painted, and well-matched tires have been obtained for them. A bracket has been assembled for the Badger Solar Lamp. Everything has been polished, and a couple period tools obtained for the tool kit. A nice navy cord for the skirt guard is even present, and the lacing has been begun.

Right now, it needs: hub to be assembled and wheels built, lamp bracket shimmed and adjusted in place, and the skirt guard to finish being laced in. 

I'm into this bike to the tune of $400 for the parts that are actually present and you would get here. If we count the things that didn't work out, the number is considerably higher. 

I've spent countless hours on this project and it's going to be amazing when it is finished, but it is time for a new home. 

I can deliver to Memory Lane on Friday, and am asking $300, but will consider interesting offers and trades.  More photos will follow in coming days.


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## HARPO (Sep 26, 2020)

Beautiful job so far! 

When finished, I don't think you'll want to know the amount of hours (_though certainly justified_) you put into this project. Well worth it!!!!!!!!!


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## cbustapeck (Sep 26, 2020)

HARPO said:


> Beautiful job so far!
> 
> When finished, I don't think you'll want to know the amount of hours (_though certainly justified_) you put into this project. Well worth it!!!!!!!!!




I see the amount of time spent as time spent learning, rather than this specific bicycle. I have gained a considerable amount of knowledge, in research, technique, and perhaps most importantly, what I want in a project bike.


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## cbustapeck (Sep 27, 2020)




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## cbustapeck (Sep 27, 2020)

More detail photos.

There is evidence that something was attached to the handlebars, and a near-identical lamp was in the Montgomery Ward catalog that year, so the choice is reasonable.


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## cbustapeck (Oct 20, 2020)

The bicycle was completed and listed for sale and sold. Full details here.


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## cbustapeck (Dec 31, 2020)

@catfish just uploaded a few pictures from what @chitown previously stated to be a 1918 Hawthorne catalog.

Among them is this great image of the 1918 women's model, which I only had a poor reproduction of before. Wow.




One of the more interesting things that I see here is that it notes two frame sizes, which helps explain the differing geometry between models.


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## HARPO (Dec 31, 2020)

Beautiful Job!!!


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## Archie Sturmer (Dec 31, 2020)

The vintage MW Hawthorne catalog shows bicycles that look to be *Davis* built.  Some of the chain ring sprockets, (e.g., #3 above), can also be seen in their *Bicycles* *for* *Private* *Brands* catalog.


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## Hukah (Dec 31, 2020)

cbustapeck said:


> "Um, that's a surprisingly accurate description of my budget..."



I hate that.


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## JLF (Dec 31, 2020)

What a great thread!  I’m late to the party.  Bike turned out amazing!


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## cbustapeck (Jan 1, 2021)

JLF said:


> What a great thread!  I’m late to the party.  Bike turned out amazing!



Thanks. It was a really cool experience and I am really glad it is in a collection where it is appreciated.


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