# How To Schwinn Lightweight Fenders, Part #'s, Rivets, Tools



## momo608

Getting some questions on Hanson rivet tools from the Work shop forum and been thinking about doing this anyway, so here goes. Since all I work on pretty much are Schwinn lightweights I can speak with some confidence on those although I'm sure this will apply to many other kinds of bikes.

Please add your tricks and tools with some good photos. I'm lacking on complete part number catalog scans so I need those also to fill in the blanks.

I was going to reluctantly spend the money and buy one of those big C clamp setters but the dude doesn't even reply to emails. For the cost of the C clamp you can buy these tools, the fenders, braces and the rivets for about the same cost. I didn't want to spend the cash anyway so a favor in disguise thank you very much.

HT-178
hand rivet Clincher for 5/32 dia tubular rivets
$25

SQ-4-21
CA2004-21 1 Long squeezer die for rivet with 5/16 dia oval or truss head
$16

rivets DF-11-6-ST
100 = 8.00

Phone Hanson rivet
818-485-0500

Not finding much at all on the internet about this and I know I was hungry for some enlightenment so I figure this is good stuff. About removing old rivets. I don't like drilling out old rivets on fenders because they tend to spin and I end up grinding them out anyway so I just grind them. No chance of enlarges holes or ruined finishes cause by spinning rivets this way. Someone said a mouse pad works good at holding spinning rivets but I have my doubts on the really loose ones. I haven't tried it so what do I know. If you only have a drill there's not much choice anyway.

Clinch allowance F for 5/32" rivets is .094


----------



## momo608

Lets get to work

The NOS fender braces come with a kink where it fits into the fender, put it on like that and you have a loose brace no matter how tight the rivet is.

not good



This will result in a loose fender





1 3/8" tubing for lightweight fenders pressing the kink out of the brace in the vice. Notice the tape for protection.



much better






I should get a manicure before I do these.

The tape holds the rivet in and provides some protection to the rivet head. We like them nice and shiny. I notice you've got to do little filing of the fender to get the rivet to fully insert.










BTW, rivet the tabs on before the braces, easier that way.


----------



## momo608

grind the lips of the rolled rivet thin and tap them out with a punch


 
Needed the brace and tab on this NOS painted fender so nice to have saved it in the best possible condition, both brace and fender. No spinning rivets here.


----------



## fattyre

Success!  Thanks momo68.  Finally got around to trying this.  Two bikes that waited a long time for fender rivets are now complete.  This works perfectly.


----------



## Eric Day

Thank you for info, I will be using this soon.


----------



## bikemonkey

momo608 said:


> View attachment 361255
> View attachment 361256
> View attachment 361257
> View attachment 361258
> View attachment 361259
> View attachment 361260
> View attachment 361261
> grind the lips of the rolled rivet thin and tap them out with a punch
> View attachment 361264
> Needed the brace and tab on this NOS painted fender so nice to have saved it in the best possible condition, both brace and fender. No spinning rivets here.
> View attachment 361266



You doing some righteous work there...


----------



## partsguy

momo608 said:


> Getting some questions on Hanson rivet tools from the Work shop forum and been thinking about doing this anyway, so here goes. Since all I work on pretty much are Schwinn lightweights I can speak with some confidence on those although I'm sure this will apply to many other kinds of bikes.
> 
> Please add your tricks and tools with some good photos. I'm lacking on complete part number catalog scans so I need those also to fill in the blanks.
> 
> I was going to reluctantly spend the money and buy one of those big C clamp setters but the dude doesn't even reply to emails. For the cost of the C clamp you can buy these tools, the fenders, braces and the rivets for about the same cost. I didn't want to spend the cash anyway so a favor in disguise thank you very much.
> 
> HT-178
> hand rivet Clincher for 5/32 dia tubular rivets
> $25
> 
> SQ-4-21
> CA2004-21 1 Long squeezer die for rivet with 5/16 dia oval or truss head
> $16
> 
> rivets DF-11-6-ST
> 100 = 8.00
> 
> Phone Hanson rivet
> 818-485-0500
> 
> Not finding much at all on the internet about this and I know I was hungry for some enlightenment so I figure this is good stuff. About removing old rivets. I don't like drilling out old rivets on fenders because they tend to spin and I end up grinding them out anyway so I just grind them. No chance of enlarges holes or ruined finishes cause by spinning rivets this way. Someone said a mouse pad works good at holding spinning rivets but I have my doubts on the really loose ones. I haven't tried it so what do I know. If you only have a drill there's not much choice anyway.
> 
> Clinch allowance F for 5/32" rivets is .094
> 
> View attachment 621232
> 
> View attachment 361233
> 
> View attachment 361238
> View attachment 361239
> View attachment 361269
> View attachment 361270




Is there a Schwinn parts list like that for ‘50s middleweights?


----------

