# New Arrivals - English Bike Parts



## SirMike1983 (Aug 5, 2017)

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2017/08/sturmey-archer-four-and-five-speed-hubs.html

I got in a 1961 Sturmey four-speed; a 1967 Sturmey five-speed; and an Indonesian reproduction reflector this weekend. The five-speed is the cleanest I've seen in a long time, and an early hub with sheet metal bell crank.










The hubs need to be gone over, and I need to go through my spares bin to complete the FW. 

The Indonesian reflector is surprisingly nice. I've had luck with their parts in the past - a set of grips I used on a Raleigh Dawn tourist turned out to be really nice as well.


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## milbicycleman (Aug 6, 2017)

Cool sturmey archer hubs. Is it hard to find parts to work on them if you don't have spares? 


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 6, 2017)

milbicycleman said:


> Cool sturmey archer hubs. Is it hard to find parts to work on them if you don't have spares?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Sometimes yes and sometimes no, it depends on the part you need. Parts that the AW three-speed model uses are easily gotten. You can still buy them in bulk even. Parts that are unique to the FW or S5 hub are much harder to get. If you're working on an AW hub though, no problem getting parts.


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## milbicycleman (Aug 6, 2017)

Okay great, thanks for letting me know. I still haven't heard back from the seller of the Raleigh Sports I mentioned in one of my posts so looking for a 4 speed hub Raleigh sounds appealing. I'm thinking I should stick to the 3 speed AW's now though. 


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 6, 2017)

milbicycleman said:


> Okay great, thanks for letting me know. I still haven't heard back from the seller of the Raleigh Sports I mentioned in one of my posts so looking for a 4 speed hub Raleigh sounds appealing. I'm thinking I should stick to the 3 speed AW's now though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I would start with a Raleigh Sports with an AW three speed hub and then change the rear cog to a 20 or 22 tooth. I bought this Sports about 14 years ago for $30 and upgraded it gradually. It has its original AW hub but I went with a 22 tooth rear cog. The four and five speed hubs are nice but you have to fiddle with the adjustments more.


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## milbicycleman (Aug 6, 2017)

SirMike1983 said:


> I would start with a Raleigh Sports with an AW three speed hub and then change the rear cog to a 20 or 22 tooth. I bought this Sports about 14 years ago for $30 and upgraded it gradually. It has its original AW hub but I went with a 22 tooth rear cog. The four and five speed hubs are nice but you have to fiddle with the adjustments more.
> 
> View attachment 656165




Great, thanks for the advise! I was thinking of going in that direction. I'm not mechanically inclined so I need something as simple as possible to work on. I live in a hilly area so the 22 tooth cog sounds like the way to go for me. 


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## blackhawknj (Aug 6, 2017)

I use the Shimano 23 tooth cog and IIRC Bike Smith Design &  Fabrication  carries the Fichtel & Sachs 24 tooth cog. They lower gears nicely. There is a very good video on Youtube by a couple of UK residents on the disassembly of the AW hub, Sutherland's manual has the best printed instructions. Use a tray-a plastic plate-and magnets to hold those small parts.


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## milbicycleman (Aug 6, 2017)

blackhawknj said:


> I use the Shimano 23 tooth cog and IIRC Bike Smith Design &  Fabrication  carries the Fichtel & Sachs 24 tooth cog. They lower gears nicely. There is a very good video on Youtube by a couple of UK residents on the disassembly of the AW hub, Sutherland's manual has the best printed instructions. Use a tray-a plastic plate-and magnets to hold those small parts.




Thanks, it sounds like the higher the number cog the better it is on hills. I'll check out the video and website. 


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## marius.suiram (Aug 6, 2017)

Nice hubs!!!
I hope you have the double shifter for the five speed hub.☺


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## bulldog1935 (Aug 7, 2017)

milbicycleman said:


> Thanks, it sounds like the higher the number cog the better it is on hills. I'll check out the video and website.



Sheldon Brown's gear calculator has Sturmey Archer and every brand/model of Internally Geared (planetary) hubs pre-programmed.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
Pick your tire size, your hub, put in your chainring count, pick your rear cog count, and learn everything about your gearset.
You probably don't want your high gear to be less than 70-75 gear-inches (typical fixie choice), or you'll never get anywhere.

for 26" tires, AW Hub, 42T chainring, and 20t drive cog, the 3 gears are:
Gain ratio/ Gear-inches
3/1 / 41.0
4.1/ 54.6
5.1/ 72.8

That's a pretty perfect range for most terrain - the low is equivalent to common 10-speed gearing, and the high is a normal cruising gear

increasing to a 22t rear cog, the range drops to 37" to 66" - anyone not in a hurry might be able to live with this.

24t cog it's 34" to 60", which would be downright annoying on level pavement - this is 3 climbing gears with no cruising gears

randomly swapping drives is not a good idea, especially when it's made so easy to do the math first


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## milbicycleman (Aug 7, 2017)

bulldog1935 said:


> Sheldon Brown's gear calculator has Sturmey Archer and every brand/model of Internally Geared (planetary) hubs pre-programmed.
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
> Pick your tire size, your hub, put in your chainring count, pick your rear cog count, and learn everything about your gearset.
> You probably don't want your high gear to be less than 70-75 gear-inches (typical fixie choice), or you'll never get anywhere.
> ...




Thank you for letting me know. I'll check out the gear calculator but I'll give it a try with the original cog for a while. 
I am getting the bike today so I'll post an update in the thread i started so I don't take over this thread.


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 7, 2017)

milbicycleman said:


> Thank you for letting me know. I'll check out the gear calculator but I'll give it a try with the original cog for a while.
> I am getting the bike today so I'll post an update in the thread i started so I don't take over this thread.




Around 1972 the stock Sports chainring went from 48 teeth to 46 teeth. It makes a small difference in setting up your gearing, but not a large amount.

https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_17.html


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## milbicycleman (Aug 7, 2017)

SirMike1983 said:


> Around 1972 the stock Sports chainring went from 48 teeth to 46 teeth. It makes a small difference in setting up your gearing, but not a large amount.
> 
> https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_17.html



Thanks, thats good to know. The one I just picked up is a 1968 so I guess it has the 48 tooth chainring.


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 9, 2017)

Among the new arrivals was a Sturmey shifter with a broken clamp. But that's also a great source of shifter parts. These old shifters are rebuildable. With the parts from that broken shifter, I was able to repair and refresh three others I have, all needing different parts: a 1938-48 era embossed brass face; a 1950s-era window shifter; and an early 1960s era 4-speed only shifter.


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## milbicycleman (Aug 10, 2017)

SirMike1983 said:


> Among the new arrivals was a Sturmey shifter with a broken clamp. But that's also a great source of shifter parts. These old shifters are rebuildable. With the parts from that broken shifter, I was able to repair and refresh three others I have, all needing different parts: a 1938-48 era embossed brass face; a 1950s-era window shifter; and an early 1960s era 4-speed only shifter.
> 
> View attachment 658054




That's great you were able to get them all working again. 
I'm thinking about going for an earlier shifter on my Raleigh so I don't have to worry about the plastic cover that mine is missing. It sounds like parts are hard to come by. Is it hard to find complete early shifters? 


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## SirMike1983 (Aug 10, 2017)

Not the 50s-60s ones - they are pretty common. They are on eBay for reasonble prices usually. Only that embossed face one all the way to the left would be "rare" in this group of shifters. But you don't need a 1938 era shifter for yours. 



milbicycleman said:


> That's great you were able to get them all working again.
> I'm thinking about going for an earlier shifter on my Raleigh so I don't have to worry about the plastic cover that mine is missing. It sounds like parts are hard to come by. Is it hard to find complete early shifters?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## milbicycleman (Aug 10, 2017)

Okay great thanks, that's good to know.  I'll keep an eye an out on eBay for one. 


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