# Mid 20's Hawthorne Rust Project!



## Lraybike

So I've been lazy about getting an update on the progress of my rusty purchase, but here it is! I've actually been done for two months now. First are some pics of what was delivered to me and I scratched my head and thought 
of aborting the project. Was it too far gone??? So I put it together to have a look and clean a bit of dirt off. Cool looking but DAM! I looked at it for a couple days and thought... should I let it beat me or should I save her? I'm a big fan of challenges so the answer ended up being YES, I'll do it! When I cleaned back some rust I saw a great color combination (Med. sea grey/ Black with lighter grey pins) and a crazy serial # "0" ? no other stampings. The center of the crank also had a "0" stamped in the center? Whatever, I became determined to see what I could do using all the rusty parts that were delivered to my door. End Of Part 1


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## Lraybike

*More Hawthorne Pics*


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## Lraybike

*And More*


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## Lraybike

*Last Rusty Pics!*


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## Lraybike

*Well, Here it is!*

Unfortunately I'm pretty lame about progress photos along the way. I just can't be bothered sometime, I'd rather just keep working and in my mind I think..."I know what the process is, what do I want to look at those pics for!"
Anyway, I was able to use every part it came with except I did need one wood clad rim (rotten) and the pedals. Oh, I was able to track down some NOS 12 1/16" torrington double-butted spokes.


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## Lraybike

*More finished photos*

I'd like to see a battery can and a horn but for now...


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## Larmo63

Wowzers!!!!!!! Love it Lawrence....you've been a busy beaver there...

Hot bike


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## rustyspoke66

WOW!!!.............. So what did you do to mount the clincher tires on the single tube rims?


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## supper15fiets

Amazing job! Looks like a very fine rider!


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## serg

It looks cool. Excellent restoration!!


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## bricycle

Outstanding Job!!!! unbelievably Supurb  work!


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## Lraybike

*Tire Question!*

I feel like keeping my solution to the "how do I get ridable tires for wood rims" question for just a bit longer! I wasn't going to say anything until enough people noticed and the curiosity bubbled!  I will say this for now, they are original wood clad rims and Yes, those are 28" x 1 5/8" clincher tires with intertubes.  Did I mention how nice the ride is?  I just want to stir some poop and get some head scratching going! Lawrence


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## Monarky

Lraybike said:


> I feel like keeping my solution to the "how do I get ridable tires for wood rims" question for just a bit longer! I wasn't going to say anything until enough people noticed and the curiosity bubbled!  I will say this for now, they are original wood clad rims and Yes, those are 28" x 1 5/8" clincher tires with intertubes.  Did I mention how nice the ride is?  I just want to stir some poop and get some head scratching going! Lawrence




Hi Lawrence, outstanding job on your Hawthorne restoration.  I also have a Hawthorne flyer in similar conditions in my garage with many challenges ahead. So did you do the paint job yourself and did you chrome or nickel plate the parts? Let me know I'm also in So. Cal and can use any tips before I start my project. Thanks, Monarky


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## Lraybike

*Paint*

First... Thank you all for the good words!  Yes, I do all my own paint work the comes from years of restoring classic cars, and to me it's all about the prep (wet sanding) and having all of the pitting filled and level. As you can see
on my latest, I had my work cut out for me. After media blasting the very best in my opinion is a catalyzed poly primer or auto primer with high build. Even though you'll wet sand 80% of this off it gets things strait. You can't really use a block but instead I like as much as six layers of 220 folded over itself to create a curved block. A guide coat in black is a must! This will show all imperfections and tell you when to stop. It does get tricky at the joints
and is something you perfect over the years, I think of it as a sculpture. Unfortunately you won't know how well you've done until the clear is laid on. Then you make adjustments on the next project, the years tick by and eventually you'll get good at it. As far as the actual painting goes, it also has it's challenges on these complex tubes and directions you have to hit for good coverage. Not enough (too dry) too much (runs!), the trick is to get a full wet coat or two and walk away! Easier said then done maybe and it's definitely a case of practice makes perfect.  As for the paint itself... I use quite often spray cans for my base coat. Higher end art stores stock a great selection
of colors to choose from (pictured here).  I came up with a way to have my top coat (clear) and over all paint job not look too glossy and too new looking! It's a catalyzed auto clear that I mix with a new FLAT clear of the same type. (2 parts flat w/ 1 part gloss) Not cheap, it'll set you back $125. in materials alone but it give the apparence of a well cared for older original paint. I do other crazy things to my clear like transparent toners in the to push the base color to exactly where I want it to be (making the color look older).  I'd like to say "That's all it takes!" but really this is mostly a jump off point, the rest just takes time/ trial & error! Maybe I've gotten too in depth but I hope this helps some of you out there.  As for the plating, Yes, it's Nickel plating. I do this for all my bike projects, it's warmer and just looks better! 

P.S. I live in Glendale


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## robertob

Good tips on the paint, thanks!!! 

I wish I had a spraybooth. not crazy about isocyanates.


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## Sped Man

Wow, I was about to warn you about avoiding pot holes given all the rust on that bike but wow you nailed that bike. It looks awesome. One question did it come in gray originally?


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## Lraybike

*Color Question?*

Yes, I surely couldn't tell at first but after rubbing it down with some steel wool it showed up.  If you look closely at some of the before pics, you can make it out.  I was also surprised to see that the fender brackets were originally black (also pictured), after drilling out the rivets and removing them the two factory colors were right there!  Maybe some Fall catalog special model??? I don't know but when I saw the color it made me want to see it in it's glory days!


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## bikewhorder

*Was it something like this?*

http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showth...-some-wheel-progress-recently&highlight=tires 

 What kind of tires are they exactly and where did you get them?  Are they 622mm ISO? They can't be the English size 28" because those are bigger than the rims.


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## rustyspoke66

I'm going to go ahead and try turning a set into clinchers because if your making a bike into a rider it needs to have good tires. Also for me I like my bikes ridable and this seems to be a good solution. I guess if a guy had to you could reinforce the inside of the rim with some carbon fiber tape or something. Also I would not try this on a standard wood rim but I think the wood clad rims should be fine. So off to the router table!


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## Lraybike

Ok, I'm not alone in thinking... That is very much what I did; however, I didn't feel the need to take out the center. This keeps the nipples still buried, all but the very edge and this transitions nicely inline with the center strip as well as keeping the wooden core as thick as possible. After the (26" fat) rubber spoke protector goes on it looks very safe for the intertube to press against. As far as the rim strength goes... there is still nearly 3/16" thickness of Rock Maple holding back the beads. Let's say the metal clad (all be it thin) doesn't hurt either. I have mine up to nearly 50 PSI and road the hell out of it (even small curbs) just to see what would happen but they held up fine!             I WANTED TO KNOW!!  I do have a trick for mounting the tires though.... I put the intertube in the tire and just slightly inflate (just enough to hold it's shape). Then put the rim inside the tire, meaning both beads are on the outsides of the rim. Then... bring each side on one at a time. This way you won't have to sweep across the rubber spoke protector and get it out of alinement. 
  Yeah, for the purist... please look away, but to me I think it's a shame to see all these great bikes just sitting around collecting dust!  I'm very much a visual guy and and looks are important. I like knowing that the original rims are still being used with the bike they came with or are era correct.  I'm trying to imagine if I bought a bike way in the future and saw that this mod had been done, would I be upset? Hell No!, Sweet, I get to buy tires for it and go for a ride!  Don't get me wrong, if someone steps up and decides to make good looking (tread design), inflatable and ridable single tubes in red, white and black I'd be happy to spend $300. for some. But for now,... this is my solution anyway!


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## Monarky

Lraybike said:


> First... Thank you all for the good words!  Yes, I do all my own paint work the comes from years of restoring classic cars, and to me it's all about the prep (wet sanding) and having all of the pitting filled and level. As you can see
> on my latest, I had my work cut out for me. After media blasting the very best in my opinion is a catalyzed poly primer or auto primer with high build. Even though you'll wet sand 80% of this off it gets things strait. You can't really use a block but instead I like as much as six layers of 220 folded over itself to create a curved block. A guide coat in black is a must! This will show all imperfections and tell you when to stop. It does get tricky at the joints
> and is something you perfect over the years, I think of it as a sculpture. Unfortunately you won't know how well you've done until the clear is laid on. Then you make adjustments on the next project, the years tick by and eventually you'll get good at it. As far as the actual painting goes, it also has it's challenges on these complex tubes and directions you have to hit for good coverage. Not enough (too dry) too much (runs!), the trick is to get a full wet coat or two and walk away! Easier said then done maybe and it's definitely a case of practice makes perfect.  As for the paint itself... I use quite often spray cans for my base coat. Higher end art stores stock a great selection
> of colors to choose from (pictured here).  I came up with a way to have my top coat (clear) and over all paint job not look too glossy and too new looking! It's a catalyzed auto clear that I mix with a new FLAT clear of the same type. (2 parts flat w/ 1 part gloss) Not cheap, it'll set you back $125. in materials alone but it give the apparence of a well cared for older original paint. I do other crazy things to my clear like transparent toners in the to push the base color to exactly where I want it to be (making the color look older).  I'd like to say "That's all it takes!" but really this is mostly a jump off point, the rest just takes time/ trial & error! Maybe I've gotten too in depth but I hope this helps some of you out there.  As for the plating, Yes, it's Nickel plating. I do this for all my bike projects, it's warmer and just looks better!
> 
> P.S. I live in Glendale
> 
> View attachment 101405




Hi Lawrence, this is Monarky again and I have another question.  My Hawthorne Flyer frame came primered so I don't have any of the original markings as a guide to go by and was wondering if you can help me with some measurements and pictures of the fork and frame two tone makings(diamonds or triangles) before I go to paint it.  Please let me know...I live in Ontario and work in L.A, so you are local. Thanks 
P.S..I also have the two original wood clad rims and did know that they can still be used.


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## Lraybike

*Hawthorne Info*

I'm glad to share whatever I can to help but lets just do it over the phone it'll be easier. I'll PM you my info.


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## Lraybike

*I'd like to find one of these!*

If anyone has a beed on one of these sirens, I'd love to know about it?  I did post it in WTB but...  Thanks for any info?  Lawrence


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## bricycle

just responded 2 your other post...


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## Lraybike

*Believe it or not!*

Believe it or not I had a response asking why I restored an original bike!  Now, don't get me wrong I love an original unrestored bike like the best of them but REALLY!... please tell me that the majority of you out there don't see what I've done as blasphemy!?  And that side by side, if you had to choose between the two you'd take the shinny new one?  I'll try to redeem myself and prove I don't restore everything that ends up at my house. HaHa (see pre 1933)

P.S. I was just having a conversation with the Hawthorne and asked...   She sat up strait, cracked her knuckles, kinda threw her head back & forth as to loosen her neck and looked at me with this absurd look and said... 
"HELL NO!, in fact now that I'm all dressed up, what are you doing tonight? Let's go do something!"   I think she approves.    L


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## rustyspoke66

I vote restored in this case was best and I like the rim mod.


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## Lraybike

*Thank you*

Thank you, It went from completely unridable to very ridable in 167 easy steps!


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## spooner

What a beautiful bicycle, nice choice of colors, great job.


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## wayne hermes

whats the chance of seeing this bike on the next cyclone coaster ride sunday December 1st???? it would be a real treat!!!


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## bricycle

It was too far gone not to restore. Great job!!!


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## Oldnut

*Motorbikes*

Love seeing this beautiful restoration done.i have seen a lot of interest in these motorbikes lately.the tanks,racks and drop stands prices have escalated lately.are these 28 bikes the new hot item? I've done a few and they ride like glass


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## spooner

*Hawthorne Rust*

That 1920's Hawthorne is beautiful, the colors are great, nice work!


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## spooner

*Hawthorne Rust*

Your 1920's Hawthorne is really nice, great colors, beautiful work!


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## Larmo63

Lawrence already brought this to a ride and my, what a nice ride it is....!

Beautiful and lovingly restored, this guy is a true craftsman. Guitars, old 

cars and planes, he can do it all.


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## stoney

Wow, very nice job. Love the gray and black paint. Did you get that Flyer headlight that sold on Ebay yesterday. Hope so.


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## Luckykat32

Lawrence... 

  You ready to restore 2 more bikes!?!


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## Silver Chief

Way beyond nice- just plain stunning!


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## gary10509

That's inspiring.  I have a project in the same shape and have just finished the disassembly. It's a 1916 Schwinn built private label.  I won't paint or plate myself, but want to do as much prep work as I can before handing it over.  I can see the slightest hints of the paint under the rust in a few places and am going to hit it with steel wool to try and reveal the original colors.  What grade of steel wool is safe for this purpose?  And do you use anything with the steel wool to help the process along?  WD40? Degreaser? Pentrating oil? etc.  Thanks for any advice.   Gary


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## bikecrazy

Restoration was the right choice! It is really nice to see what these bikes looked like when they were new! The plating really looks great.


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## pedal_junky

Hey Gary, if you're just looking for the original color, look behind the badge, or inside the bottom bracket. But if you're just trying to uncover and remove rust, then yes, 0000 steel wool and wd-40 works pretty good. Along with patience . You should start a thread, I'd like to see what you have.


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## gary10509

pedal_junky said:


> Hey Gary, if you're just looking for the original color, look behind the badge, or inside the bottom bracket. But if you're just trying to uncover and remove rust, then yes, 0000 steel wool and wd-40 works pretty good. Along with patience . You should start a thread, I'd like to see what you have.




Frank -- Click here:  http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?66037-What-do-I-have-Is-it-worth-it-Where-do-I-start

I've found some gray in those places, but I'm trying to uncover the details.


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## pedal_junky

Gotcha Gary, thanks.


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## StoneWoods

I have one that has the older type sprocket but it has chrome fenders. They are ridged like this bike. Anyone guess the year?


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## OldSkipTooth

Nice job, and don't be too bothered by those few who think everything should be preserved in whatever sad state it was found in. Lol.


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## tech549

awesome nice work!!!


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