# Schwinn DX Questions



## Jive Turkey (May 10, 2021)

I bought this from a Craigslist ad yesterday. According to the Schwinn serial number tool it's either a '51 or '58 but I've since been told it's a '40 model. Obviously, I have a fairly limited knowledge of bicycles and what I do know pertains mostly to Muscle stuff. The bike has the original 'The World' head badge and screen. The serial number is D08696. It's also stamped FRN on the bottom bracket. It appears to have a Morrow rear hub. Other than the obvious handlebars, does everything else appear original?


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## Junkman Bob (May 10, 2021)

Prewar 
Cool bike for sure 
If you choose to sell I would be able to complete her as she should 

Pm sent


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## Mountain Trail Andy (May 10, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> I bought this from a Craigslist ad yesterday. According to the Schwinn serial number tool it's either a '51 or '58 but I've since been told it's a '40 model. Obviously, I have a fairly limited knowledge of bicycles and what I do know pertains mostly to Muscle stuff. The bike has the original 'The World' head badge and screen. The serial number is D08696. It's also stamped FRN on the bottom bracket. It appears to have a Morrow rear hub. Other than the obvious handlebars, does everything else appear original?
> 
> View attachment 1408857
> View attachment 1408858
> ...




Nice bike!  Is that a 65 Cyclone drag car sitting in the garage?


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## bloo (May 10, 2021)

51 and 58 are straight out. Probably 1940. 

Morrow hubs are dated, see here: https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/serial-number-and-date-code-information.71542/#post-441223

Schwinn cranks were dated too in that era, but you have to take them out to see.


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## dasberger (May 10, 2021)

'39.....  should clean up nicely!  don't think the seat is correct.   Morrow hub has a date code and crank should as well






						Serials | bicyclechronicles
					






					www.bicyclechronicles.com


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## Junkman Bob (May 10, 2021)

Not 1939 
39 would of had  integrated drop stand ears in frame ... and Straight down tube ...cool bike


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## dasberger (May 10, 2021)

Junkman Bob said:


> Not 1939
> 39 would of had  integrated drop stand ears in frame ... and Straight down tube ...cool bike



I was just going by Tim's chart...  yes I stand corrected!  '39 was the one year of straight down tube on the DX.  Prewar serial dating is nebulous at best!


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## Junkman Bob (May 10, 2021)

I agree with you .. It does get a little confusing for sure 
As a team we can figure anything out tho ... Thumbs up 

Bob


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## Jive Turkey (May 10, 2021)

Mountain Trail Andy said:


> Nice bike!  Is that a '65 Cyclone drag car sitting in the garage?




Yes, it's a '65.........not a Cyclone though, it's a Caliente. 289, T-10 with a Hurst Comp/Plus.


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## RustyHornet (May 10, 2021)

Gorgeous bike! Looks like the paint will clean up well. Kings digging the apes on it too! Different. Neat bike.


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## rollfaster (May 10, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Yes, it's a '65.........not a Cyclone though, it's a Caliente. 289, T-10 with a Hurst Comp/Plus.
> 
> View attachment 1408916
> View attachment 1408918
> ...



That is really sweet!!


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## Mountain Trail Andy (May 10, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Yes, it's a '65.........not a Cyclone though, it's a Caliente. 289, T-10 with a Hurst Comp/Plus.
> 
> View attachment 1408916
> View attachment 1408918
> ...




Sweet!


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## Jive Turkey (May 10, 2021)

Anyone know what the 'FRN' stamped on the bottom shell designates? It's stamped near the bearing cup and runs in the opposite direction of the serial number.


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## bloo (May 10, 2021)

My guess is it is someone's initials. My 41(40?) frame, and others I have seen from the period had only the serial number.


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## dasberger (May 10, 2021)

My '38 has a "T" stamped into it....  haven't been able to figure it out.  Different size than serial...


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## Junkman Bob (May 10, 2021)

I tend to lean toward Intials as well ... I have this 46 BFG DX I believe due too A xxxxx SN ...,with persons name stamped as well


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## Jive Turkey (May 10, 2021)

Yeah, I was thinking it may be someone's initials. I'll try to get a good photo of it tomorrow and post it anyway, can't hurt.


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## Junkman Bob (May 10, 2021)

Ya a nice pic would be a plus for sure ...


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## Junkman Bob (May 10, 2021)

FRN stands for :
Fu&@ing
Real 
Nice bike

Lol


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## GTs58 (May 10, 2021)

The serial numbers were stamped before the frame was painted. If that other stamping was done after paint it was stamped by a previous owner. Also, when a bike is registered and or licensed there may be a stamping from the local PD. I'm going with a 1940 DX.


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## Jive Turkey (May 11, 2021)

Here's the serial number as promised:


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## dasberger (May 11, 2021)

For sure someone's initials.....


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## Jive Turkey (May 11, 2021)

I'm in the process of tearing it down at the moment. I had a heck of a time getting the stem out, surprisingly though, the seat post was pretty easy. One of the truss rods, along with the bracket is slightly tweaked and the hole for the axel is cracked on one side, other than that there's no damage that I can see. I'm going to ask a friend of mine to weld it up, should be an easy fix. Now I need to figure out how to get the pedals off, I've always used the kickstand to brace the crank but this doesn't have one. I'll just have at it a little each day, it's getting pretty warm here now so being in the garage isn't really anywhere near the top of my fun things to be doing list.


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## Junkman Bob (May 11, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> I'm in the process of tearing it down at the moment. I had a heck of a time getting the stem out, surprisingly though, the seat post was pretty easy. One of the truss rods, along with the bracket is slightly tweaked and the hole for the axel is cracked on one side, other than that there's no damage that I can see. I'm going to ask a friend of mine to weld it up, should be an easy fix. Now I need to figure out how to get the pedals off, I've always used the kickstand to brace the crank but this doesn't have one. I'll just have at it a little each day, it's getting pretty warm here now so being in the garage isn't really anywhere near the top of my fun things to be doing list.




When removing pedals , you will be turning wrench in the direction that the crank would be braking if riding .... so crank will be in fixed position! As long as you didn’t remove rear rim prior too removing pedals ....


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## mrg (May 11, 2021)

My local Downey fire station flipped my 64 Lime Stingray up side down and stamped the bike lic. #'s on the BB just about the same time your car was sold new about a mile away!!! small world, @Jive Turkey any history on that, spent many hours hanging out in cars ( maybe that one ) at Sachs & Sons Lincoln mercury and Downey Ford across the street, and the other corner was Yeakel Chrysler Plymouth so sat in many super birds & Shelbys, Actually learn how to drive in all those cars on early Sunday mornings when they were closed but that could be a whole different thread!


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

mrg said:


> My local Downey fire station flipped my 64 Lime Stingray up side down and stamped the bike lic. #'s on the BB just about the same time your car was sold new about a mile away!!!



Those plate frames were added by me after I bought the car. It's been a California car it's entire life but I have no idea what dealership sold it when it was new. I put those plate frames on it because Sachs & Sons was the dealership that sponsored Jack Chrisman's Super Cyclone.


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

Junkman Bob said:


> When removing pedals , you will be turning wrench in the direction that the crank would be braking if riding .... so crank will be in fixed position!



Yes, I know.  I was mainly concerned about applying that much force on the rear hub. I also didn't think I had a wrench skinny enough to get in between the crank arm and the pedal but I found one. I'm having a heck of a time getting the big nut off the crank. I soaked it overnight in a mixture of WD-40 and Marvel Mystery Oil but it wont budge. I just put some more on there and I'll give it another try this afternoon. I'm also leaning toward not removing the chain tensioners. It'll make it more of a hassle to put it back together but I definitely do not want to take the chance of snapping them off in the frame.


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## Junkman Bob (May 12, 2021)

I feel your pain Bike Brother .... I’m not the most patient person sometimes.... You’ll get it out ... Thumbs up


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

Would this be the correct seat bolt for my bike? If so I'd be interested in buying one if anyone has one available.


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

dasberger said:


> Morrow hub has a date code and crank should as well.



I was able to get the crank disassembeled..........that mixture of WD-40 and MMO not only works great but smells good to and pairs wonderfully with chicken salad.    The date on the crank is strange, on one side it's got the standard A.S.&Co and the other side appears to have a backwards 3 (possibly an 'E'?) 9 and a F inside a square. Tomorrow I'm going to work on getting the wheels broken down and ready for a deep cleaning.


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## dasberger (May 12, 2021)

Pic of crank?


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

dasberger said:


> Pic of crank?



I'll try but I'm not sure if I'll be about to get a good enough shot of the numbers. If that doesn't work I'll try a rubbing.


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

dasberger said:


> Pic of crank?


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## dasberger (May 12, 2021)

Looks like it's a 3...  maybe "39 and it's an error in the casting with the 3 backwards?  Although most 30's cranks I've seen just have AS and two digits


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## dasberger (May 12, 2021)

Prewar Schwinn crank markings | All Things Schwinn
					

The 502 “ladies” crank is the correct one for the prewar Men’s New New World as shown in the 1940 parts catalog.  There was one fitted to my 1941 men’s New World.    I was wondering if some of you could help nail down what the actual lengths of the different prewar cranks are.  The 502 cranks on...




					thecabe.com
				




look at post #13


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

dasberger said:


> Looks like it's a 3...  maybe "39 and it's an error in the casting with the 3 backwards?




That must be it, there's not really anything else that makes sense. Thanks for the info/link.


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## bloo (May 12, 2021)

I have heard of them getting the digits reversed in 39 like "93" or whatever, but I can't prove it happened. I have never seen or heard of one reversed in quite this way.

I will say this, it looks identical to my 1939 and 1941 marked Schwinn cranks. The 41 has AS&CO on the rectangular boss on the back side, and the 1939 is left blank back there. I believe both have the F mark in the square. I know the 39 does because I just looked at it. Neither crank has any reversed numbers.

I am no authority on these things, not even close, but it does not seem an impossible stretch for a crank forged in 1939 to wind up on a 1940 bike. YMMV.


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

bloo said:


> I am no authority on these things, not even close, but it does not seem an impossible stretch for a crank forged in 1939 to wind up on a 1940 bike.



Agreed, especially since the first digit of this bikes serial number is a 0, so I'm guessing it was one of the first ones of the new model year.


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## Junkman Bob (May 12, 2021)

39 ... as your bike is a 1939 ... nice to have the OG crank 
Thumbs up


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## bloo (May 12, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Agreed, especially since the first digit of this bikes serial number is a 0, so I'm guessing it was one of the first ones of the new model year.




I don't think it worked like that. There are no solid records for prewar Schwinn, and bottom brackets may have been stamped before the frame build. It certainly seems that Schwinn did that after the war.

My B model "Packard" is F71444, and I am thinking it is 1941 because the crank is stamped 41. The best serial number reconstruction I am currently aware of would have it as 1940, and the numbers overlap for some years.  For sale in the classifieds right now (NOT MINE) is a DX "Century" with serial F56821. It appears to be a 1941.

You can only get close.

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1941-schwinn-century.191204/


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## Casual dreamer (May 12, 2021)

Hello fellow Fresnan! Nice DX! The "GDD" license plate configuration on your Ford was from El Centro. Nothing better than getting a car with it's OG plates!


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## Jive Turkey (May 12, 2021)

Casual dreamer said:


> Hello fellow Fresnan! Nice DX! The "GDD" license plate configuration on your Ford was from El Centro. Nothing better than getting a car with it's OG plates!




Hey there! I didn't realize the letters in the plate weren't just random. That's some good information.


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## KingSized HD (May 13, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> The date on the crank is strange, on one side it's got the standard A.S.&Co and the other side appears to have a backwards 3 (possibly an 'E'?) 9 and a F inside a square.



This post on ‘39 cranks may help...https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/how-is-a-39-schwinn-dog-leg-crank-marked.181812/


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## Jive Turkey (May 13, 2021)

KingSized HD said:


> This post on ‘39 cranks may help...https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/how-is-a-39-schwinn-dog-leg-crank-marked.181812/




Thanks for the link. I just added my photos there, hopefully they'll help someone.


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## BFGforme (May 13, 2021)

My'39 crank has a backwards"3" on it also!


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## Jive Turkey (May 13, 2021)

BFGforme said:


> My'39 crank has a backwards"3" on it also!




Right on. I wonder if all '39 cranks are like that or if they 'corrected' it at some point?


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## bloo (May 13, 2021)

Mine is corrected.


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## KingSized HD (May 13, 2021)

Mine is correct.


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## Tim the Skid (May 13, 2021)

@ Jive Turkey     I started reading this thread to check out the DX, but I'm more in to that killer Merc! Fantastic period correct drag car. Wild about the interior, I love it!


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## Jive Turkey (May 13, 2021)

Tim the Skid said:


> @ Jive Turkey     I started reading this thread to check out the DX, but I'm more in to that killer Merc! Fantastic period correct drag car. Wild about the interior, I love it!




Thanks. I wanted to emulate what a young kid would have put together to street race in the late '60's or early '70's.


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## Jive Turkey (May 14, 2021)

Got sidetracked yesterday and have stuff to do today and tomorrow. I may have some time to tear the wheels apart on Sunday. There's no big rush, I'm just planning on working on it a little at a time.


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## Jive Turkey (May 14, 2021)

What everyone's favorite secret sauce for soaking/cleaning old chains? I've never worked on anything I had to reuse the chain on so I usually just toss them and get a new one.


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## bloo (May 14, 2021)

I soaked 2 of them in evaporust, probably rinsing them off then and dunking in a solvent like MEK or acetone now and then to get oil out of the way. I was going to dunk them in a paraffin wax mixture for lubrication, but never got to that part because I measured them after they were clean and they were really shot. Those two were 1/2" pitch so replacements were available. Cleaned up nice though. The chain off my 53 Huffy is soaking right now. Time will tell how that one comes out.


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## Junkman Bob (May 14, 2021)

GAS


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## mrg (May 15, 2021)

Gas/oil mix.


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## Mymando (May 16, 2021)

Great score man!


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## bloo (May 16, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Would this be the correct seat bolt for my bike? If so I'd be interested in buying one if anyone has one available.
> 
> View attachment 1410353




Since nobody more experienced than me has tackled this, I did ask about that for my 41 in an old thread, and the answer I got was that they were still plain hex headed bolts even though the seat post clamp appears intended for a bolt like that. Corrections welcome. 

I suspect that bolt is postwar, and if I remember correctly some have raised letters and some are engraved, and one version was only used for a very short period. I do not recall which was which.


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## Superman1984 (May 16, 2021)

@Jive Turkey find you some The Works Toilet bowl cleaner & let it soak in that. Small wire brush it after a few hours & soak/repeat until content. Once content paraffin wax mix via google is what I've found to keep them from getting so nasty & re rusting. Heard they stay a Lot Cleaner from riding trails etc too with the wax blends. The cleaner will cause flash rust as it slightly acidic so if you don't at least wipe it down with a thin coating of something oily it will turn orange. I don't recommend WD40


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## bloo (May 20, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> What everyone's favorite secret sauce for soaking/cleaning old chains? I've never worked on anything I had to reuse the chain on so I usually just toss them and get a new one.






bloo said:


> I soaked 2 of them in evaporust, probably rinsing them off then and dunking in a solvent like MEK or acetone now and then to get oil out of the way. I was going to dunk them in a paraffin wax mixture for lubrication, but never got to that part because I measured them after they were clean and they were really shot. Those two were 1/2" pitch so replacements were available. Cleaned up nice though. The chain off my 53 Huffy is soaking right now. Time will tell how that one comes out.




3 runs in Evaporust, then a swim in hot parrafin wax.


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## Jive Turkey (May 22, 2021)

Been working a little bit at a time. I got the truss rods cleaned up a little while ago. They still have a little bit of crust which is fine with me, I don't want them to be confused with reproduction parts. I've still got to get the repair done to the axle hole one one side.


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## bloo (May 22, 2021)

Ugh. Those are a pain in the ass to braze on, and I have no idea why. One of the rods on my 41 had a vertical crack along the squished part. It must have taken me about 12 tries. I don't mean to discourage you. Yours might be easier because the break is all exposed. I probably used silver rather than brass to keep heat damage to the plating at a minimum (a good idea). There was still a great deal of polishing and cleanup afterward.


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## Jive Turkey (May 22, 2021)

Yeah, it's certainly not in the best spot but I've got a couple of friends who are absolutely fantastic welders, I'm pretty confident one of them will be able to fix it for me.


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## Jollyride (May 23, 2021)

Sweet car.
Bob's correct its a 40 or 41.
The 39 had a straight downtube however it had that chainguard.
Have a 41 here with a Morrow hub. Sometimes they spec what they have at the date it was released.
Nice find!!!


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## Jive Turkey (May 27, 2021)

Got the guts of the rear hub out of the secret sauce and spent some time getting them cleaned up the rest of the way. I've never worked on one of these Morrow hubs before and after reading this thread I'm not so sure I'm looking forward to reassembly. 






I also got the front hub shell cleaned up and discovered it's a New Departure. Is that correct for this bike or has it been replaced sometime in it's life?





It constantly amazes me the quality of these old parts, the bearings from the rear hub look like brand new. It's obvious people took pride in what they did back then.


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## B607 (May 28, 2021)

My '41 DX had a Schwinn script front hub.  This is it.  I replaced it with a post war Schwinn script hub with caged bearings.  The prewar had loose bearings.  Gary


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## Jive Turkey (May 28, 2021)

B607 said:


> My '41 DX had a Schwinn script front hub.  This is it.  I replaced it with a post war Schwinn script hub with caged bearings.  The prewar had loose bearings.




My front hub is a New Departure 'WD'. A quick Google search says it's pre-war........doesn't say weather or not it could have been original equipment on my bike though.


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## bloo (May 28, 2021)

A WD? Isn't that a front brake?


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## Jive Turkey (May 28, 2021)

bloo said:


> A WD? Isn't that a front brake?




Possibly, I really have no idea. I'll check the front hub again with my magnifying glass under a strong light. There's some pitting on the shell so it wasn't the easiest thing to read the first time.


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## bloo (May 28, 2021)

I am pretty sure the "W" plain front hub existed before the war and after. There is a lighter duty model (WL?) that might be postwar only, not so sure about that one.


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## Jive Turkey (May 31, 2021)

bloo said:


> I am pretty sure the "W" plain front hub existed before the war and after. There is a lighter duty model (WL?) that might be postwar only, not so sure about that one.




I checked the hub again under a strong light and magnifying glass, it is indeed a 'WL' model like you stated.


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## bloo (May 31, 2021)

I hear those are easier to get parts for than the "W".


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## Jive Turkey (May 31, 2021)

bloo said:


> I hear those are easier to get parts for than the "W".




That's a definite plus.


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## Jive Turkey (Jun 7, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Been working a little bit at a time. I got the truss rods cleaned up a little while ago. They still have a little bit of crust which is fine with me, I don't want them to be confused with reproduction parts. I've still got to get the repair done to the axle hole one one side.
> 
> View attachment 1416722






bloo said:


> Ugh. Those are a pain in the ass to braze on, and I have no idea why. One of the rods on my 41 had a vertical crack along the squished part. It must have taken me about 12 tries. I don't mean to discourage you. Yours might be easier because the break is all exposed. I probably used silver rather than brass to keep heat damage to the plating at a minimum (a good idea). There was still a great deal of polishing and cleanup afterward.





Fixed:


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## Superman1984 (Jun 7, 2021)

Every little bit helps and a step further to getting it back to better than found


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## Jive Turkey (Jun 7, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> Every little bit helps and a step further to getting it back to better than found




Yep. 😎 I've also got a nice set of Torrington 8's on their way to replace the mismatched (and beat to hell) pedals that were on the bike when I got it. I have no idea weather they are 'correct' or not (and don't much care). They've got just the right amount of crustiness to look like they've always been there:


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## bloo (Jun 7, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Fixed:




Nice job!

As for the Torrington 8's, I don't know either but I do know that you can't go wrong with them. There are good reasons everybody seems to love Torrington 6/7/8/9/10/11. They are rebuildable, and have strong axles and aren't usually bent. My guess is they are correct, along with a couple other possible types but I can't prove it.


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## Jive Turkey (Jun 16, 2021)

Got the pedals apart and in the process of soaking the bearings and cleaning up the other small parts. Just doing a little at a time. It's super hot this week in my neck of the woods so not much progress to speak of. On another note, I'm interested in a tank for this bike if anyone happens to have one or know of one for sale. I'm interested in one in about this condition:


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## Jive Turkey (Jun 22, 2021)

Not much progress in the last week, it's just too hot in the garage. I've got a nice razor stem on it's way as well as a set of grips. I was doing an inventory to see what I may need to replace and I realized there's no tabbed locking washer in the headset. I've never owned/worked on one of these prewar Schwinn's with the truss rod forks.......is that washer not used because of the truss rod bracket or is it indeed missing?


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## GTs58 (Jun 22, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Not much progress in the last week, it's just too hot in the garage. I've got a nice razor stem on it's way as well as a set of grips. I was doing an inventory to see what I may need to replace and I realized there's no tabbed locking washer in the headset. I've never owned/worked on one of these prewar Schwinn's with the truss rod forks.......is that washer not used because of the truss rod bracket or is it indeed missing?




I'm sure it makes no difference pre or post war, but all the post war bikes I have that have a stem mounted bracket for carrier or truss rods do not have a keyed washer on the head set. No bracket, you need the keyed washer.


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## spleeft (Jun 22, 2021)

Nice bike, car and updates ! Keep em coming with more pics !


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## Jive Turkey (Jun 26, 2021)

Got the pedals put back together but not much else since it's been hotter than the Devil's 'taint here lately. Still looking for a tank, if you have one you wouldn't mind coming off of please let me know.


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## Superman1984 (Jun 26, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> Got the pedals put back together but not much else since it's been hotter than the Devil's 'taint here lately. Still looking for a tank, if you have one you wouldn't mind coming off of please let me know.



Same here in S.Carolina 😓😓😓


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## Jive Turkey (Jul 15, 2021)

This just arrived from a fellow CABE member: 






I'm originally from Westminster Ca. so this is very special to me. As far as I can tell this is actually from Westminster, Colorado but virtually no one will know that when I'm cruising around on the bike. I've been told that Westminster Ca. never issued plates, only stickers. The lack of a State designation and year make it perfect for my DX............even the colors match.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 15, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> This just arrived from a fellow CABE member:
> 
> View attachment 1446748
> 
> I'm originally from Westminster Ca. so this is very special to me. As far as I can tell this is actually from Westminster, Colorado but virtually no one will know that when I'm cruising around on the bike. I've been told that Westminster Ca. never issued plates, only stickers. The lack of a State designation and year make it perfect for my DX............even the colors match.



I want a tag for my 1964 Columbia Firebolt but I am going to have to make 1 from a B.C Columbia tag & something with 1964 #s


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## Steve Baltera (Jul 15, 2021)

Hoping to get close. Prewar DX serial # I 30290 . just have the bare frame and forks.No crank.Looks like it was blue in color Curved down tube.

                                      THANX


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## Superman1984 (Jul 15, 2021)

Steve Baltera said:


> Hoping to get close. Prewar DX serial # I 30290 . just have the bare frame and forks.No crank.Looks like it was blue in color Curved down tube.
> 
> THANX



If you're looking to nail down a year you might want to post pics & or start your own thread post. It does help to keep track of who owns what & not hijack a thread just because you own the same brand of bike etc


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## Jive Turkey (Jul 18, 2021)

I'm giving serious thought to punting this project. The wheels have been completely disassembled, one hoop is decent, the other is junk. I will include an appropriately crusty pair of chrome hoops if the buyer wants them. If you just want the hubs shipping would be easier/cheaper therefore we can knock off some of the price. The spokes on one wheel were not salvageable. The hubs were completely torn down, degreased and are ready for reassembly. I now have a nice Razor stem and a rebuilt pair of Torrington 8's that will be included. The mouse ears are slightly tweaked, they should straighten easily with a hammer/vice. The frame/fork still need to be cleaned/detailed. Just needs tires/bars-grips/elbow grease. Westminster license plate not included. PM me if you're interested.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 18, 2021)

@Junkman Bob here's your chance to buy it


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## Jive Turkey (Jul 18, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> @Junkman Bob here's your chance to buy it




I already offered it to him, he declined.


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## Superman1984 (Jul 18, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> I already offered it to him, he declined.



My bad. I knew he was interested towards the beginning of the thread. If I had the dough I'd straight up be interested .... a blue Schwinn straight bar 🤔.  I'm Sure somebody will bite. GLWS 👍🏻


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## Jive Turkey (Jul 18, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> ....a blue Schwinn straight bar 🤔.



It's actually black.  😉


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## Superman1984 (Jul 18, 2021)

Jive Turkey said:


> It's actually black.  😉



Even Better than Red😉


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## Junkman Bob (Jul 20, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> @Junkman Bob here's your chance to buy it




I have since aquired several bikes in the last week. Bike budget a little low right now but if bike gets listed and budget allows I would be on it !!
GLWS 

Bob


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