# Elgin Blackhawk Help!



## klunk! (Nov 16, 2012)

Just picked up this original Blackhawk, unfortunately the previous owner lost part of the horn flipper switch.  Looking for an original flipper switch to replace this one or suggestions on repairing what's left of this one.  Any suggestions?  Thanks alot!  KarlView attachment 73797


----------



## scrubbinrims (Nov 16, 2012)

I'll trade you mine for a Huffman twin flex.
Seriously, that switch is like hen's teeth, not to discourage you.
You might post on the hoarders thread there is some good luck over there.
Chris


----------



## jpromo (Nov 16, 2012)

Post it in the new rare parts thread! If that's all that's missing from that beautiful bike, I think you're doing okay. Man, I love that bicycle; nice find!


----------



## bike (Nov 16, 2012)

*Really great find*

there are some great fabrication folks on this list - maybe someone can help you out- most people only skim titles so put exactly what you want in a fresh post.
-pg


----------



## klunk! (Nov 17, 2012)

Thanks for the suggestions.  Chris, sorry can't trade my Twin Flex, good catch on that one, forgot it was behind the Blackhawk when I took pictures.  Do you or anyone have a few good pictures of a complete flipper that you could post or email to me?


----------



## fordsnake (Nov 17, 2012)

scrubbinrims said:


> I'll trade you mine for a Huffman twin flex.




Hey Chris, that desk chair the bikes are propped up against is worth more then both bikes combined...if it's an original Charles and Ray Eames?


----------



## RMS37 (Nov 17, 2012)

fordsnake said:


> Hey Chris, that desk chair the bikes are propped up against is worth more then both bikes combined...if it's an original Charles and Ray Eames?




The brackets connecting the upper and lower back, the exposed screw heads, and the size and position of the armrests all show that the chair is one of the popular inexpensive Eames knock-offs. I had a couple of those that I scored at thrift stores but I got tired of trying to fix the base connectors and sent them back out the door for the equivalent of fair headlight money.


----------



## scrubbinrims (Nov 17, 2012)

klunk! said:


> Thanks for the suggestions.  Chris, sorry can't trade my Twin Flex, good catch on that one, forgot it was behind the Blackhawk when I took pictures.  Do you or anyone have a few good pictures of a complete flipper that you could post or email to me?




Just kidding on the twin flex and coincidentally I have 3 bikes in professional restoration, 2 are in that room (always upgrade to original paint though).
The flipper is in my Blackhawk box, so I can post on this thread over the weekend.
Really nice find.
Chris


----------



## fordsnake (Nov 17, 2012)

The discerning Phil Marshall procuring knoc-koffs...who would've ever thunk it?



RMS37 said:


> The brackets connecting the upper and lower back, the exposed screw heads, and the size and position of the armrests all show that the chair is one of the popular inexpensive Eames knock-offs. I had a couple of those that I scored at thrift stores but I got tired of trying to fix the base connectors and sent them back out the door for the equivalent of fair headlight money.


----------



## klunk! (Nov 17, 2012)

Yes, the chair in the picture is by Plycraft and is a 1970/80s knock off.  The original Eames Lounge Chair and ottoman are in the house.  The Plycraft got kicked to the garage when I found a nice original Eames chair in Rosewood.


----------



## aasmitty757 (Nov 17, 2012)

Very Nice Blackhawk. I have been looking for one of those switches for a long time.


----------



## fordsnake (Nov 17, 2012)

klunk! said:


> Yes, the chair in the picture is by Plycraft and is a 1970/80s knock off.  The original Eames Lounge Chair and ottoman are in the house.  The Plycraft got kicked to the garage when I found a nice original Eames chair in Rosewood.





Very Nice, (also nice rides)!


----------



## scrubbinrims (Nov 17, 2012)

*Switch*

What dreams are made of (for bicycle geeks like me).
Tried to remove the bakelike disc underneath, but it is a very tight fit and thick and the flipper was moving laterally with some prying, so I stopped in fear of breaking it.
Chris


----------



## Freqman1 (Nov 17, 2012)

RMS37 said:


> The brackets connecting the upper and lower back, the exposed screw heads, and the size and position of the armrests all show that the chair is one of the popular inexpensive Eames knock-offs. I had a couple of those that I scored at thrift stores but I got tired of trying to fix the base connectors and sent them back out the door for the equivalent of fair headlight money.




Dang---Phil's a furniture expert as well! I have some Eastlake pieces I'd like to get your opinion on--jus kidding Phil. V/r Shawn


----------



## 1918 Ranger (Nov 17, 2012)

Hey love the Black Hawk.   On my bucket list. 

I'm resurrecting a twin flex now. Could I see some pics of yours??


1918 Ranger


----------



## klunk! (Nov 17, 2012)

Hey Chris, Thanks for the photos.  That helps me out alot!  Going to try to fabricate the flipper part.  Here are a couple pics of the Twin Flex as requested.  Thanks again for the help.


----------



## 1918 Ranger (Nov 17, 2012)

klunk! said:


> Hey Chris, Thanks for the photos.  That helps me out alot!  Going to try to fabricate the flipper part.  Here are a couple pics of the Twin Flex as requested.  Thanks again for the help.View attachment 73986View attachment 73987




Thanks.  All original paint it looks!!  Great bike. 


1918 Ranger


----------



## hotrod62 (Nov 18, 2012)

your Elgin blackhawk is beautiful from what i can see, would sure like to see more pictures of it i think a set of old tires is as close as i have two a blackhawk..........


----------



## raidingclosets (Nov 18, 2012)

*Toggle/Flipper Dimensions*

Here's some pictures and dimensions to help you if you plan to make a toggle for your horn button.  I've tried to show the shape, it's a little like a spoon and because of this the length and width measurements I provided will be a hair smaller than it'd need to be made before shaping. 

It's kind of a horrible design for a horn button and pretty obvious why they changed the design after a year or two, most of the housings are cracked (regardless of how nice they are), the wires are soldered in place making it difficult to rewire, and from my experience the toggle is a little less consistent in sounding the horn than the later style with the bakelite button.  

These buttons are a little tricky to take apart, here's the steps I remember:

1- Press the lower bakelite disk up to pull the two straps out of the housing.

2- The bottom edge of the housing has been slightly crimped/folded under in two spots (where the wires come through, and where the toggle should come out).  Gently uncrimped the spots so they are consistent with the radius of the rest of the housing.  

3- Remove the lower bakelite disk (they fit into the housing fairly tight).  If it seems stuck you can try to jiggle it loose or fit a small flathead screwdriver in the hole where the toggle should be coming out and try to push the disk out (BE CAREFUL WHEN INSERTING THE SCREWDRIVER, do not insert it more than 3/16" as there's a small spring in the center of the upper bakelite disk that you don't want to damage).

4- Once you've got the lower disk out it should become fairly obvious how the toggle fits in.  (I included a picture)

5- If you need to remove the upper disk where the wires attach it becomes a little more difficult.  The wires are soldered into the upper disk so I'd advise against cutting them. Like the lower disk it's a tight fit in the housing.  Try slapping it against your hand or something cushioned if it seems stuck in place.  You can try to insert a tiny screwdriver between the wires and the disk in the hole where the wires come out and try to press the disk down.  Once you've got it to move and it's lowering out of the housing you will have to push the wires up into the housing above the disk as the disk is lowering so that the wires aren't pinched against the hole they're coming through which would keep the disk from moving.


I think that's about it, hope this helps you and anyone else with one of these buttons!

Jason


----------



## klunk! (Nov 19, 2012)

Thanks Jason!  That is super helpful.  Is there any way you could measure distance from one end to where the "pivot tabs" are... Thanks alot, Karl


----------



## catfish (Nov 19, 2012)

Jason,    Ver cool info! and photos! Thanks for doing that. 

  Catfish


----------



## raidingclosets (Nov 20, 2012)

*Additional Toggle Dimension and More Pics*

Sorry for the delay, had to dig the button back out.  Here's the picture with the additional dimension you requested, I should have thought to include that the first time.  I'm also attaching 2 pictures of the upper bakelite disk (the first picture is of the top of the upper disk and the second is of the bottom of it).  As you can see from the plastic wires this button's been rewired/soldered but it was done fairly well and if I remember correctly looks pretty similar to an original. 

Let me know if you have any other questions, 
Jason


----------

