# Opinions on the paint



## 34 Dayton (Mar 27, 2017)

Hello Cabers - I gotta start somewhere so I am looking for advice on weather to continue to slowly remove the silver paint on this Dayton or just soda blast and start from bare metal. Also should I remove the head tube badge if I repaint? I have seen a photo of one after removal and it looked pretty ugly on the backside. Shawn, I read your notes and obs every time I get on the site. Thanks for the good work putting that together. I'll be able to quote it word for word by the end of this project. 
Looking at the photos you can see the problem areas. Is it worth saving the original paint? 
Those nuts on top of the fork braces come off/ unscrew correct? That yoke at the top is going to need some attention and I was going to wire brush the rods to get rid of the flaking chrome and put a clear coat on them to keep from rusting. If I am doing something wrong please let me have it. I value all good info.  Thanks - Mike


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## Freqman1 (Mar 27, 2017)

Hey Mike here goes my 2c worth. The way I see it there are three options here: 1. try to remove the silver and refurbish as -is, 2. strip it and do a total restoration, or 3. strip it and do a patina restore. Personally this is one of those rock and a hard place bikes money wise. There really isn't enough original paint form what I see to leave as is and still look decent. The other side of the coin I don't see a full resto being economically feasible i.e. the resto will cost more than the bike is worth when finished. 

That's why I would lean towards option 3. Fortunately these were a solid color so not that hard to do. Strip it, paint it, and weather it to match you components. Look at original paint bikes and where they typically and how they wore and try to replicate this by using any number of techniques from heavy steel wool to walnut stain. The nuts do come off the truss rods. Regarding the badge this requires some skill and patience to remove without damaging it. If you are unsure I would just carefully mask it. I wouldn't go the wire brush route on the chrome pieces. You would be surprised what some fine steel wool  (000-0000) and WD-40 will do for those pieces. Good luck regardless which route you take-and keep us posted! V/r Shawn


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## 34 Dayton (Mar 27, 2017)

Freqman1 said:


> Hey Mike here goes my 2c worth. The way I see it there are three options here: 1. try to remove the silver and refurbish as -is, 2. strip it and do a total restoration, or 3. strip it and do a patina restore. Personally this is one of those rock and a hard place bikes money wise. There really isn't enough original paint form what I see to leave as is and still look decent. The other side of the coin I don't see a full resto being economically feasible i.e. the resto will cost more than the bike is worth when finished.
> 
> That's why I would lean towards option 3. Fortunately these were a solid color so not that hard to do. Strip it, paint it, and weather it to match you components. Look at original paint bikes and where they typically and how they wore and try to replicate this by using any number of techniques from heavy steel wool to walnut stain. The nuts do come off the truss rods. Regarding the badge this requires some skill and patience to remove without damaging it. If you are unsure I would just carefully mask it. I wouldn't go the wire brush route on the chrome pieces. You would be surprised what some fine steel wool  (000-0000) and WD-40 will do for those pieces. Good luck regardless which route you take-and keep us posted! V/r Shawn



Thanks Shawn - That's what I wanted to hear. I think I'll go with 3 also. Pics to come.


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## 34 Dayton (Dec 20, 2017)

Freqman1 said:


> Hey Mike here goes my 2c worth. The way I see it there are three options here: 1. try to remove the silver and refurbish as -is, 2. strip it and do a total restoration, or 3. strip it and do a patina restore. Personally this is one of those rock and a hard place bikes money wise. There really isn't enough original paint form what I see to leave as is and still look decent. The other side of the coin I don't see a full resto being economically feasible i.e. the resto will cost more than the bike is worth when finished.
> 
> That's why I would lean towards option 3. Fortunately these were a solid color so not that hard to do. Strip it, paint it, and weather it to match you components. Look at original paint bikes and where they typically and how they wore and try to replicate this by using any number of techniques from heavy steel wool to walnut stain. The nuts do come off the truss rods. Regarding the badge this requires some skill and patience to remove without damaging it. If you are unsure I would just carefully mask it. I wouldn't go the wire brush route on the chrome pieces. You would be surprised what some fine steel wool  (000-0000) and WD-40 will do for those pieces. Good luck regardless which route you take-and keep us posted! V/r Shawn




Hi Shawn and Cabers - I have been away awhile but did get the frame stripped of the silver paint over the brick red. Shot some clear matte finish to protect the paint and bare metal spots. I like the brass in the corners and so does my son who will get the bike when it's finished. So I'm on to the wheels and other parts that I will list in the "wanted" section. I have replied to a 28"drop stand add by Mr Z. 
Looking for some advice on the wheels/tires. The tires are shot and glued on. Flat spots and cracks. I would have to cut them off and find some new tires. I have seen somewhere on TheCabe someone reworked a set of metal clad wooden rims and installed clincher tires. Seemed to work and looked good. The spokes could be cleaned up and adjusted for tension and truing. As a display bike all original is best but as a rider I will want to make it safe. I don't know what it takes to fit the new tires. I have seen a few bikes here that have new 28"ers on wooden rims. Anything special involved?  Now that I'm back at the restoration I hope you don't mind me pestering the heck out of you and any Cabers that want to sound off. I appreciate all the knowledge. Thanks


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## frampton (Dec 22, 2017)

Which model Brooks saddle is that?


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## stoney (Dec 22, 2017)

34 Dayton said:


> Hi Shawn and Cabers - I have been away awhile but did get the frame stripped of the silver paint over the brick red. Shot some clear matte finish to protect the paint and bare metal spots. I like the brass in the corners and so does my son who will get the bike when it's finished. So I'm on to the wheels and other parts that I will list in the "wanted" section. I have replied to a 28"drop stand add by Mr Z.
> Looking for some advice on the wheels/tires. The tires are shot and glued on. Flat spots and cracks. I would have to cut them off and find some new tires. I have seen somewhere on TheCabe someone reworked a set of metal clad wooden rims and installed clincher tires. Seemed to work and looked good. The spokes could be cleaned up and adjusted for tension and truing. As a display bike all original is best but as a rider I will want to make it safe. I don't know what it takes to fit the new tires. I have seen a few bikes here that have new 28"ers on wooden rims. Anything special involved?  Now that I'm back at the restoration I hope you don't mind me pestering the heck out of you and any Cabers that want to sound off. I appreciate all the knowledge. Thanks
> 
> View attachment 727046




I think you took the right choice. The frame looks awesome. I love the high top arch on those frames. looking forward to more pics.


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## 34 Dayton (Dec 22, 2017)

B135 . I don't think it is exactly correct for this bike but it looks close and it only cost me $65 on Craigs List


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## 34 Dayton (Dec 22, 2017)

stoney said:


> I think you took the right choice. The frame looks awesome. I love the high top arch on those frames. looking forward to more pics.



Thanks I'm glad you all like the progress.


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