# 1940s Westfield Sports Roadster



## SirMike1983 (May 31, 2015)

My current project is a 1940s Westfield lightweight. I thought initially it was a 1947, but the first letter of the serial could be an "L" or an "E". The strike is poor and it is hard to tell. It has some interesting features, including a non-pin type one piece crank. It uses a tapered section of crank to lock the sprocket, not a separate pin protrusion. The bars also are the older type "script" Torringtons. Interestingly, the seat stays bolt to the seat cluster rather than are welded, similar to the English roadsters.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/05/westfield-sports-roadster-progress.html

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/05/westfield-sports-roadster.html


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## rustjunkie (May 31, 2015)

very cool! 
Looks like the chain wheel might take a heavy-duty 1/2" chain?


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## SirMike1983 (May 31, 2015)

Does anyone know if there is a separate oiler "cap and spring" for the New Departure Model D? My hub has the oiler neck in the shell, but no flip cap or spring for the oiler neck. I've never seen anyone selling just the cap and spring though.


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## SirMike1983 (May 31, 2015)

rustjunkie said:


> very cool!
> Looks like the chain wheel might take a heavy-duty 1/2" chain?






I hadn't taken a close look at the chain. The crank set is sort of weird- no pin or any of that, the sprocket keys in over a tapered section of crank arm. Here's a shot of the sprocket teeth-


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 6, 2015)

I think this one is a 1940 on further inspection. Cleaning revealed that the letter on the bottom bracket looks like an "E" and the front tire had a 1940 date code.


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## bikiba (Jun 6, 2015)

cool bike MIke - does the seat stay having a bolt typically mean it is prewar? I thought I had read that somewhere?


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 6, 2015)

bikiba said:


> cool bike MIke - does the seat stay having a bolt typically mean it is prewar? I thought I had read that somewhere?




Mr. Columbia thought it was a short-lived, post-war feature from the 1940s. I never even knew Westfield did it at all. It comes from English-style designs, that had bolt-on seat stays. My guess is that Westfield looked to English-type bikes for inspiration. I initially thought the letter on the bottom bracket was an "L", which would be 1947. I did some more cleaning and found another mark that makes it seem more an "E"- it's poorly stamped either way. I pulled the tires from the rims and one had a 1940 date stamp on it, so that would match the "E"/1940 thought.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/06/i-did-some-work-on-sports-roadster-this.html

It also has that odd, "key-in" bottom bracket set up without a drive pin. The crank axle itself tapers and the sprocket keys into a tapered section. There's no separate pin like on most one piece crank bikes. Definitely something worth preserving on this one.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 7, 2015)

Some ISO 599 rims will allow a 597 tire, but these will not. The side walls are too high. I had luck with 597 tires on another set of 599s that came with a Manton & Smith, but those had lower side walls. These really aren't even close to allowing the 597 tires on. I have a set of ISO 590 rims with a similar profile to the originals that may work.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/06/1940-westfield-sports-roadster-rims-and.html


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## bikiba (Jun 7, 2015)

I did the same thing with my rollfast. Was able to slip (with great hand strength) a pair of tires on


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## Gasbag (Jun 8, 2015)

I need to do the same thing with my '46 Compax Traveler because the rims are rusted too badly and have deep pits. I mocked it up with Raleigh ISO 590 wheels but didn't like the larger gap between the fender and the tire. ISO 590's do allow more tire choices so I might need to find a taller tire. Using Schwinn ISO 597 doesn't leave many tire choices. Please give lots of details on your solution. I've never built a wheel. FWIW, I'm putting a 1941 Schwinn New World together and Kenda K23 go on and off the Superior rims with only thumb pressure. Aired them up and they spin decently on my truing stand.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 8, 2015)

Gasbag said:


> I need to do the same thing with my '46 Compax Traveler because the rims are rusted too badly and have deep pits. I mocked it up with Raleigh ISO 590 wheels but didn't like the larger gap between the fender and the tire. ISO 590's do allow more tire choices so I might need to find a taller tire. Using Schwinn ISO 597 doesn't leave many tire choices. Please give lots of details on your solution. I've never built a wheel. FWIW, I'm putting a 1941 Schwinn New World together and Kenda K23 go on and off the Superior rims with only thumb pressure. Aired them up and they spin decently on my truing stand.




If the bead seat diameter of the Westfield is 599mm, and an Endrick pattern Raleigh rim is 590mm, that's probably about a quarter inch difference in diameter for gap purposes, assuming the tires are the same size and rim side walls are more or less the same. I'll bet if you wanted to make up the difference a bit, you could put a Panaracer Col de la Vie or Schwalbe Delta Cruiser set on there. Those seem a bit bigger and fatter than Kendas. I have not yet gotten the 590 rims in, so I'll have to see if the gap changes much on mine. I am leaning toward getting a set of Duro white walls and running them. They add a little extra to the bike's appearance and seem a hair bigger/wider than the basic Kenda tires, at least the ones on my Raleigh Sports do.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 11, 2015)

Does anyone happen to know what sort of grips originally would have come on the Sports Roadster?


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 18, 2015)

This bike is assembled. It's too late for any pictures tonight, maybe this weekend though. A few items of note:

I ended up locating a set of original rims in very, very good condition for a reasonable price. They are identical to the originals but with very good chrome. I was able to get Kenda ISO 597 (Schwinn S5/S6 type) tires to go onto the rims with my bare hands. The trick was to leave them in the sun to bake for the afternoon, warming them up. They then just slipped right on with bare hand pressure. 

The chain is a Duckworth brand, not Diamond. The master link is a pain in the ass and came apart on me during the test ride. I tightened it up a bit, but still am not 100% happy with it. I think I should just put a new master link on and roll with it though. 

I had a set of short coke bottle type grips that work for it. I added an old bell as well. The bell isn't 1940 vintage, but is pretty old, sounds nice, and looks proper on the bike.

I have not put the Philco add-on brake on yet. I'm waiting for pads. I think I can get some Weinmann type Kool Stops modified to fit the pad holders. The dimensions look workable with a little sandpaper. That said, I may not put the Philco back on. Originally it would have had just a coaster brake, and I frankly don't want to put any wear on the plating of these old rims. These rims are almost NOS. I'm surprised I located a set like this.

The original saddle was very dry. I doubt it would last long as a rider. I put a leather Brooks B66-style saddle on (generic brand, but looks OK). 

It's fun to ride but has a very primitive feel compared to a Raleigh or even a Schwinn with handbrakes.


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## SirMike1983 (Jun 21, 2015)

This is a fun bike to ride. It's very primitive compared to a Raleigh Sports, or even one of the Schwinn New Worlds that has handbrakes. A lot of the fun comes from the simplicity and light weight of the bike. The handling is very neutral and docile- you can ride it hands off without difficulty. At the same time, it is much lighter and more agile than a ballooner when you want it. Given the apparent "E" serial number and the 1940 tire date codes, I would guess a 1940 rather than a 1947 bike as I previously suspected.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/06/1940-westfield-sports-roadster-bicycle.html


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## Gasbag (Jun 22, 2015)

It finished up nicely. I like the look of a bicycle that has been cleaned up and still has enough patina to preserve the dignity of age. I can see the English influence in this bike; the slack frame angles, how the seat stays bolt to the seat clamp, and the sit up and beg riding position, the fork designed to soak up bumps. Thanks for chronicling this restoration and others both here and at your blog. Both have been useful in my endeavors. We seem to share a common taste in bicycles.

I picked up a prewar B.F. Goodrich (Schwinn) lightweight today. It's a rougher start than your Westfield, but certainly worthy of a restore.


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## bikeyard (Jun 22, 2015)

Gasbag I've got your fenders


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## SirMike1983 (Jul 3, 2015)

A couple more shots- a classic, American light roadster for Fourth of July weekend.

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2015/07/1940-westfield-sports-roadster-summer.html


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