# The old stuck stem and Fork routine



## Imsohawthorney (Jul 11, 2022)

If a 50s Cruiser gooseneck is Rusted and broken so badly that  we  have no chance of pulling the gooseneck out, can I saw it off , and then if it's really necessary , grinding off the lock nut, will the fork then just come right out of the bottom of the headset tube, taking all my troubles away? I don't know this sounds like a good idea let me know please.
   Some people may just leave it alone because it does turn freely, but I'll be damned I want the thing apart because I want to put new bearings in there like I have always done.


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## Archie Sturmer (Jul 12, 2022)

Might try a propane torch; although it might cause discoloration and paint damage.


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## GTs58 (Jul 12, 2022)

Cutting off the stem and removing the lock nut will let you drop out the fork. The you can work on getting wedge and rest of the stem out. 

See what Maurice did to his. 








						1960 schwinn corvette handlebar stem questions | All Things Schwinn
					

I personally wouldn't mess with rechroming one of those rolled stems if that's what you're saying here.     Right? I have some of those larger dia, one off a 57 tiger? Anyhow tiger with wrong dia stem & a repop 21.1mm quill stem? Gap looks lame gonna rechrome one of the older ones




					thecabe.com


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## J-wagon (Jul 12, 2022)

If hacking away locknut, take care not damage steerer tube threads


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## tacochris (Jul 12, 2022)

I can tell you what i do if you choose to do so:

I usually will hang the bike upside down in the stand, remove the fender nut underneath the fork.  Once that's out, fill that fork neck from underneath with penetrating' fluid of your choice (I prefer PB Blaster).  Go to dinner, go watch a movie, go to bed etc.  When you return, take a thing steel dowel rod, down the same hole and hammer against the wedge that way.  
Obviously there are other factors but this has worked many times for me.


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## WillWork4Parts (Jul 12, 2022)

1960 doesn't sound like a bad year for crustiness and stuck factor....not too hard of a year to find replacement parts for either. I suppose pics would help determine how hard I'd try to work to preserve original parts.

I'll repeat what has always worked for me. Kroil penetrating oil and make sure your stem bolt's threads are healthy. Reinstall the stem bolt about 1/16" backed up from stem and tap down with a dead-blow hammer to make sure you can move the wedge away from the stem. Only then can you start twisting....if it lets you. If it doesn't twist after that, you'll need more patience and penetrating oil. 

If you do decide to lop the stem off, try to loosen the headset while you still have the stem and handlebars for leverage. If you feel the need to cut the top nut and race off...only a shallow cut in the center of opposite side flats(just to the threads) with a Dremel or die grinder will do. Then use your wrench to split it in half the rest of the way. Upper race will likely come loose after the nut is removed. If the upper race is still stuck, similarly split down the side and chisel the race in two. 

Best of luck!


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## Imsohawthorney (Jul 12, 2022)

Thank you guys, I know it'll work and I have more than one option thank you.


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## Jeff54 (Jul 13, 2022)

Imsohawthorney said:


> If a 50s Cruiser gooseneck is Rusted and broken so badly that  we  have no chance of pulling the gooseneck out, can I saw it off , and then if it's really necessary , grinding off the lock nut, will the fork then just come right out of the bottom of the headset tube, taking all my troubles away? I don't know this sounds like a good idea let me know please.
> Some people may just leave it alone because it does turn freely, but I'll be damned I want the thing apart because I want to put new bearings in there like I have always done.



If you need to chop the stem or understand what to do,  check for maker and the type of wedge or cone shaped expander nut yours has; there are usually two types. The cone flat ended is likely the worst because I believe it spreads the fork tube out wider than the angled wedge and leads to a stronger grab. The other pushes the wedge in at an angle and shouldn't expand and rust-lock into the  tube  in as deep. 'Shouldn't'

Photo: Wedge-shaped (on left) and cone-shaped (on right) expander

Regardless you'd need something to tap the expander out, like a hard stem bolt or a rod. Use one of those and if it's the flat type, you can tap it all the way around. The angled wedge wants to push or tap in the center.


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## Bikehaus (Jul 13, 2022)

I have the one on the right, and the bolt snapped inside. I was able to get the headset out, but now that wedge and that bolt piece are stuck at the bottom of my fork.


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## BF2485 (Jul 13, 2022)

Aerokroil is good stuff


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## Imsohawthorney (Jul 13, 2022)

Jeff54 said:


> If you need to chop the stem or understand what to do,  check for maker and the type of wedge or cone shaped expander nut yours has; there are usually two types. The cone flat ended is likely the worst because I believe it spreads the fork tube out wider than the angled wedge and leads to a stronger grab. The other pushes the wedge in at an angle and shouldn't expand and rust-lock into the  tube  in as deep. 'Shouldn't'
> 
> Photo: Wedge-shaped (on left) and cone-shaped (on right) expander
> 
> Regardless you'd need something to tap the expander out, like a hard stem bolt or a rod. Use one of those and if it's the flat type, you can tap it all the way around.


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## Imsohawthorney (Jul 13, 2022)

Good stuff thanks. Well you know, does anybody on this site ever utter the infamous words, I wish I'd have left it alone?. I really broke the long stem Bolt off for no reason except I was stubborn and refuse to accept reality. And the bearings are so nice because it works fine I should have left it alone there I've said it again. But you know what it's not too late to leave it alone. I'll be the only one that knows that the long bolt is only glued in.
   But it really is good to know if I ever get pigheaded enough I am willing to sacrifice the fork and the gooseneck. Hopefully I can find nice Rusty ones.


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## Maurice (Jul 13, 2022)

I recently had the same problem with a '60 Corvette. Cut the stem off, got the fork out and into a vice. An overnight soak with Kroil penetrant along with a vice, and some heat got it out. Currently a thread going on with this exact subject. Check it out. "1960 schwinn corvette handlebar stem questions"
Good luck!


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## Jeff54 (Jul 14, 2022)

Imsohawthorney said:


> Good stuff thanks. Well you know, does anybody on this site ever utter the infamous words, I wish I'd have left it alone?. I really broke the long stem Bolt off for no reason except I was stubborn and refuse to accept reality. And the bearings are so nice because it works fine I should have left it alone there I've said it again. But you know what it's not too late to leave it alone. I'll be the only one that knows that the long bolt is only glued in.
> But it really is good to know if I ever get pigheaded enough I am willing to sacrifice the fork and the gooseneck. Hopefully I can find nice Rusty ones.
> 
> View attachment 1662006



Wait, wh-a-a-t? Ok screw the stem, albeit it's sure to be the wedge type. U want to get it loose. All you have to do is ride it on some bumpy surface. 😅 But, that's not why I put the brakes on here.

That Badge, called a 'Wing' or 'Winged' type. You don't have any screw holes to fit a regular 3-1/4" badge. That type of badge was used on lightweights and the subject came up regarding a 51 @ozzynut2 
that would be a ballooner Schwinn last week, that only has the screw holes to fit this badge, 2-1/2" screw hole distance.

This is answering that other question about the type of badge he should get.
By the length of your head post, it appears to be for 26" wheels but; What year is your bike?


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## Robert Troub (Jul 14, 2022)

I have have some really good luck by soaking the item (2)3 days) in see the attached pic and water....there is just enough acid to gently loosen some parts, yet it doesn't hurt the paint or chrome 
Then, turn the bike upside down on your stand, a little tap, tap, tap ....and viola!   It's worked for me several times.....


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## AndyA (Jul 14, 2022)

Imsohawthorney said:


> does anybody on this site ever utter the infamous words, I wish I'd have left it alone?.



No, never! Progress always, onward and upward, excelsior!
As Will Shakespeare wrote: "Cowards die many times before their deaths; The valiant never taste of death but once."
Well, maybe sometimes someone says that under his breathe. But it is not encouraged. 😉


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## Imsohawthorney (Jul 17, 2022)

Jeff54 said:


> Wait, wh-a-a-t? Ok screw the stem, albeit it's sure to be the wedge type. U want to get it loose. All you have to do is ride it on some bumpy surface. 😅 But, that's not why I put the brakes on here.
> 
> That Badge, called a 'Wing' or 'Winged' type. You don't have any screw holes to fit a regular 3-1/4" badge. That type of badge was used on lightweights and the subject came up regarding a 51 @ozzynut2
> that would be a ballooner Schwinn last week, that only has the screw holes to fit this badge, 2-1/2" screw hole distance.
> ...



It is a 52 Hornet


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## Imsohawthorney (Jul 17, 2022)

Maurice said:


> I recently had the same problem with a '60 Corvette. Cut the stem off, got the fork out and into a vice. An overnight soak with Kroil penetrant along with a vice, and some heat got it out. Currently a thread going on with this exact subject. Check it out. "1960 schwinn corvette handlebar stem questions"
> Good luck!
> 
> View attachment 1662035
> ...



Thank you, I'm sure I could use that


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## Kickstand3 (Jul 17, 2022)

heat


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## Imsohawthorney (Jul 18, 2022)

BF2485 said:


> Aerokroil is good stuff



Wow, pricey😖


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## BF2485 (Jul 18, 2022)

Imsohawthorney said:


> Wow, pricey😖



it works!!


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