# Best glue for wood rim repair?



## Kombicol (Jan 11, 2020)

I have a wood rim that needs to be re-glued at the joint.
Any recommendations on most suitable glue?
Thanks
Col


----------



## The Carolina Rambler (Jan 11, 2020)

Hello!  I'm in a similar situation with regards to wood rims.  Some of mine are even splintered and cracked.  I won't know for sure until I go and try it, but I am inclined to use Gorilla Brand wood glue.  I have used this glue on other projects before, such as to repair the  cracked steering handles on a sled, and a gun-stock to name a couple, and I was pleased with the results.  The glue looked good, was not really even noticeable, and has held very strongly.  It is water based, but when cured, does not appear water soluble from what I can tell.  I would reckon this glue is not too unlike the glues used on these rims back when they were still being made.  You just have to apply it generously and evenly, and then clamp the glue joint firmly and properly, as this glue expands into the grain for strength.  I used a hose clamp and rag to clamp my joints. 

This is just what I am thinking, and it would be good to hear what some other folks more experienced in this have to say.  I'm not sure there are too many folks repairing and reworking these old wood rims these days.  Many people use new aluminum rims painted in woodgrain, or use modern European-built wood rims intended for road bikes.  However, I strongly recommend repairing and using original equipment and rims as much as possible, as even weathered and crooked rims should be capable of being made straight and usable again.


----------



## GTs58 (Jan 11, 2020)

Being an old Carpenter I'm all in for Elmers, and from experience with the newcomer Gorilla glue I'm staying with Elmers. Gorilla is rated below Elmers and from my experience it's shelf life is quite a bit shorter than Elmers. Lots of new chemistry in glues today and if I were going to glue up a wood bike rim I would consider Titebond III simply because of the higher test ratings and waterproof bonds. 





__





						Best Wood Glue [TOP 5 2022] Strong, Waterproof, Outdoor / Indoor
					

Choosing the best wood glue. PVA, CA, Epoxy, Polyurethane - wich is the strongest one? Gorilla, Titebond, Elmer's, or TotalBoat - wich is the best? Check out!




					chemicalwiki.com


----------



## SKPC (Jan 11, 2020)

I have never repaired a wood rim, but as a professional furniture repair person, I would use 2-part epoxy(clear)...then cut/scrape excess with sharp razor blade after dry.   If you make mistakes or need time to re-join and clamp the parts back together in place, use the 30-minute stuff and wait overnight. If no clamps are needed, wipe the excess uncured glue off with rubbing alcohol. Makes a good filler as well mixed with hardwood sanding dust.
(Edit: if a finger joint is the subject of your repair, use a super sharp exacto knife to remove any remnants of glue from the finger joint ends..this will prevent a good bond as the old glue will just release and the joinery will separate once again)


----------



## Goldenrod (Jan 12, 2020)

For this application the glue should be waterproof so I would vote for epoxy or Tite Bond 3.  I like clamps with wood pieces cut in a curve.


----------



## Craig Allen (Jan 12, 2020)

One thing to keep in mind about different kinds of glue, no matter which one is used, no glue will last long if it is squeezed out of the joint. Many times the natural thinking is, the tighter the clamping, the better the bond. When the joint is clamped excessively tight, then most of the glue gets squeezed out, leaving very little strength. The joint should be clamped tight, but not too tight. This is something I learned watching Norm Abram on The New Yankee Workshop tv program.


----------



## Chuck S (Jan 12, 2020)

I have no experience with gluing wood rims, but I have made a good number of bows (archery). From that experience I think you have to consider the following. Glues are good for applications where no gap filling is required and the glue joint is with the long grain of the wood. The larger the surface area the better. I have used Titebond II for all my bows where the material is only wood with no problems.
Epoxy would be better choice for an end grain joint. It also will allow for gap filling. A slow set epoxy provides for the strongest joint. In bow making EA40 Smooth On brand epoxy is the most common choice. Cure time is about 24 hours, less if you use heat. For example at 180 degrees cure time is reduced to 4 hours. Typically used to laminate wood to fiberglass and also for wood to wood joints it provides for a strong shock resistant joint.
I have not had good results with Gorilla glue.


----------



## hopkintonbike (Jan 12, 2020)

No experience with wood rim repair but in the bamboo rod making world, Titebond is getting pretty universally used, as far as clamping, if I am understanding the repair correctly, any closure pressure on a finger joint in a rim is likely going to be accomplished using a band clamp, I doubt you could apply enough pressure in that setting that would result in the bonded surfaces being "too tight", actually, I have never heard of a glue joint being clamped too tight, but you learn something new every day. Todd


----------



## David Brown (Jan 12, 2020)

I have repaired lots of wood rims over the years and have been using a product called System Three Resins inc.  2 part Epoxy Glue   Any rims I have glued never came apart again  Being in Ontario i get it at (Noahs boat works) in Toronto


----------



## New Mexico Brant (Jan 12, 2020)

The Carolina Rambler said:


> I am inclined to use Gorilla Brand wood glue.



Just keep it away from any dogs!  https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/dogs-and-glue


----------



## The Carolina Rambler (Jan 12, 2020)

New Mexico Brant said:


> Just keep it away from any dogs!  https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/dogs-and-glue



You got that right!  Dogs will eat anything, I swear to Lan!


----------



## Chuck S (Jan 12, 2020)

Because it is moisture activated it is really dangerous to dogs. My wife worked at a shelter, they had to save a dog that ate Gorilla glue. It took an operation and lots of money for that operation. The dog did survive.


----------



## Barnegatbicycles (Jan 12, 2020)

Hide glue, already lasted for the first 100 years. I have some rims that somebody epoxied and I really wish they hadn't because it ruined the wheel. I've laced plenty of rims that have been restored and glued together with hide glue and have never had a problem.


----------



## hopkintonbike (Jan 12, 2020)

How did epoxy ruin the wheel? I am not promoting the use of epoxy, I think waterproof glue like Titebond is much easier to use and if the glue surfaces are cleaned of ALL old glue, holds just fine. As far as hide glue is concerned, that sounds old fashioned and unnecessary to me, its fine to be authentic, but unless the rim is then totally sealed from future moisture, hide glue will eventually let go again. My experience has been with rod restoration, and nobody uses hide glue any more Todd


----------



## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jan 12, 2020)

You can also laminate carbon fiber tape on the inside of the rim.


----------



## bikewhorder (Jan 12, 2020)

I'd need to see a pic of what you're trying to do to give you an accurate answer but... I've been making my living as a custom woodworker for 22 years and I'd say titebond 2 or 3 if its an easy fix, or west system epoxy if you need more open time to get it all clamped up.  I'm not at all impressed with gorilla glue and hide glue is not an option i would even consider.


----------



## GTs58 (Jan 12, 2020)

bikewhorder said:


> I'd need to see a pic of what you're trying to do to give you an accurate answer but... I've been making my living as a custom woodworker for 22 years and I'd say titebond 2 or 3 if its an easy fix, or west system epoxy if you need more open time to get it all clamped up.  I'm not all impressed with gorilla glue and hide glue is not an option i would even consider.




Been waiting for you to chime in here.


----------



## Barnegatbicycles (Jan 14, 2020)

hopkintonbike said:


> How did epoxy ruin the wheel? I am not promoting the use of epoxy, I think waterproof glue like Titebond is much easier to use and if the glue surfaces are cleaned of ALL old glue, holds just fine. As far as hide glue is concerned, that sounds old fashioned and unnecessary to me, its fine to be authentic, but unless the rim is then totally sealed from future moisture, hide glue will eventually let go again. My experience has been with rod restoration, and nobody uses hide glue any more Todd



Made a really bad uncolorable stain at the joint which sticks out like a sore thumb. I have glue plenty of wood rims together with hide glue and never had a problem with any. If you are going to paint the rims some color then it doesn't matter but if you are going to stain them and clear them hide glue is where it's at in my opinion. Rims are ment to have some give and flex to them ,unlike furniture, if you use something too strong you could get a failure in the joint or it might become very hard to true. Also when you spoke the wheel it naturally pulls the joint together so you don't need anything ridiculously strong.


----------



## comet (Aug 2, 2020)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> You can also laminate carbon fiber tape on the inside of the rim.
> 
> View attachment 1123080
> 
> ...



Would that be like laying fiberglass, just different materials? What are the materials? Thanks.


----------



## GiovanniLiCalsi (Aug 2, 2020)

You can find carbon fiber tape and laminate to the rim. Lay dry onto rim and mark spoke hole locations and use a die cutting tool to make the holes, then laminate to rim.


----------



## all riders (Aug 2, 2020)

yes, much like fiberglass. Indeed you can use polyester resin(fiberglass resin) with carbon fiber, but not a good idea in this situation, BY far the resin of choice is an epoxy. West Systems- I would go with West Systems 207--stays very clear for a long time while other epoxies tend to yellow with age.  By the way, Gorilla Glue is not an epoxy--it's urethane. They're both polymers but not any real similarities. It's a nice idea to line the rims with modern stuff especially given the end grain situation. But I am a big fan of Tightbond--after 40 years of......         Lest you fear over-squeezing the joint(unlikely), Visible "squeeze-out" all around the joint is a must.


----------

