# rechroming poll



## 41compax (Jun 9, 2018)

Hi,  I've gotten several rechroming quotes that far exceed the value of this bike for the next 200 years, not including the shipping to and from the rechroming company .  My question for those who have had a lot their bike of parts rechromed, who has done you a great job for a semi reasonable cost?  Thanks!


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## mike j (Jun 10, 2018)

Mara plating & polishing, Newark, N.J.


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## Freqman1 (Jun 10, 2018)

Chrome anywhere is not going to be cheap. This is why, for a lot of bikes, restoration is cost prohibitive. V/r Shawn


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## vincev (Jun 10, 2018)

Much cheaper to buy a nice original than to invest a lot into a "restoration" that ruins any value of most bikes. Also,some old bike used nickel plating not chrome.


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

vincev said:


> Much cheaper to buy a nice original than to invest a lot into a "restoration" that ruins any value of most bikes. Also,some old bike used nickel plating not chrome.




I totally understand your point but this bike has been in the family for about 68 years so one in better condition isn't really an option.  You do make a point though that I should ask about.  I'm pretty sure this Compax had/has chrome plating - not nickel.  The reason I think that is I can see where a lot of the finish has flaked off.  In my limited experience, I've only run into flaking in regards to chrome.  Do you know if nickel plating flakes off like chrome?


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## old hotrod (Jun 10, 2018)

41compax said:


> I totally understand your point but this bike has been in the family for about 68 years so one in better condition isn't really an option.  You do make a point though that I should ask about.  I'm pretty sure this Compax had/has chrome plating - not nickel.  The reason I think that is I can see where a lot of the finish has flaked off.  In my limited experience, I've only run into flaking in regards to chrome.  Do you know if nickel plating flakes off like chrome?



Some chromers have high minimums that are more reasonable when spread over many parts. Check with local friends and see if you can get a break on larger quantity of work in a package. Also, many are middlemen that do the prep (which is an art form in itself-bad prep = junk parts) then send to another shop for chroming. In the end, you get what you pay for and chroming like paint work is expensive but unlike paint, you cannot do it yourself...


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## TR6SC (Jun 10, 2018)

If this bike is important for its familial history, I say re-plate it if you desire. It's not about the money. You can put the money in your will, or you can put the bike in your will. No difference. The easy part of chrome is the chrome. The hard part is the stripping, the copper plating, and the polishing. Once that is done, the nickel coats all that work for the shine. Nickel tarnishes. Chrome is just another coating over what's already shiny. Do NOT go with the cheap guy. He'll give you garbage. There are plating houses that have earned a reputation for good work because of their good work. Always specify the amount of attention needed on each part. "Don't round this. These must fit. Both sides show." 
Let's see the pics.


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## fat tire trader (Jun 10, 2018)

I have been happy with the work that these guys have done for me. http://speedsportchrome.com/


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## MrColumbia (Jun 10, 2018)

Unless the restored value of a bike is in the *multiple thousands* plating will not be worth it monetarily. I have rechromed and renickled several bikes back when plating was substantially cheaper than it is now and it was not cost effective even back then. 

The issue of sentimental value comes up all the time. Nobody can tell another what that is worth. 

The plater I used for many bikes is *New England Chrome Plating* in East Hartford CT. They did a good job for me but it has been years and I hand delivered and hand picked up my parts. Back then prices were $75 for handlebars, $45 for hub shells, $200 or more for rims and the like. I'm sure prices have skyrocketed since then. 

And yes, the Compax is chrome on all the major brightwork. Some parts would have been cadmium plated back then but it is pretty much outlawed now as it is very hazardous.


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## kreika (Jun 10, 2018)

Would it be possible to replace your parts indeed of chrome with original parts you could slowly accumulate from here,eBay, or swaps???


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## WES PINCHOT (Jun 10, 2018)

IMO!
I WONDER IF ANY RECHROMER CAN MATCH THE 
FACTORY QUALITY (FINISH) OF THE ORIGINAL CHROME PART?


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## old hotrod (Jun 10, 2018)

I would say yes and no...i think a new unplated production part only gets a quick clean and flash chrome. Typical rechroming tends to lose detail through the cleaning, polishing and layers of plating. Specialty chromers experienced in high end vintage car restorations usually understand and have learned the techniques to properly replicate the correct type or style of chroming that would go with a particular era of bike.  And i am sure the process has changed over the many decades further affecting results. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## rustjunkie (Jun 10, 2018)

41compax said:


> I totally understand your point but this bike has been in the family for about 68 years so one in better condition isn't really an option.  You do make a point though that I should ask about.  I'm pretty sure this Compax had/has chrome plating - not nickel.  The reason I think that is I can see where a lot of the finish has flaked off.  In my limited experience, I've only run into flaking in regards to chrome.  Do you know if nickel plating flakes off like chrome?




Let's see some pics of the bike


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Jun 10, 2018)

I find it interesting that so many people worry about how much they will get when selling a part of their hobby. most hobbies are an expenditure of cash with little or no return at all, yet we never hear them complaining.


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## Euphman06 (Jun 10, 2018)

The the chrome shop, I did.

http://www.thechromeshop.com/


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

kreika said:


> Would it be possible to replace your parts indeed of chrome with original parts you could slowly accumulate from here,eBay, or swaps???




I learned long ago anything is possible and even though I'm younger than the bike, we're both getting older.  While I would gladly try to upgrade parts if the right ones became available, I'd still like to retain/reuse as many parts as I can that are original to this bike - just for the sentimental value.  I've only had the bike in my possession for a few months now but would still like to be able to ride it in the summer of 2019.  Said another way, Murphy's Law says better condition original chromed parts will only show up AFTER this bike is back together.


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

rustjunkie said:


> Let's see some pics of the bike


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

Thank you to all for the suggestions on rechromers they have used.  I'll start making calls and see who has what to say.  I already know I'll have a lot more invested in the bike than it will ever be worth but I'd like to see the bike closer to how it looked in 1941.  Again, thanks all!


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## WES PINCHOT (Jun 10, 2018)

old hotrod said:


> I would say yes and no...i think a new unplated production part only gets a quick clean and flash chrome. Typical rechroming tends to lose detail through the cleaning, polishing and layers of plating. Specialty chromers experienced in high end vintage car restorations usually understand and have learned the techniques to properly replicate the correct type or style of chroming that would go with a particular era of bike.  And i am sure the process has changed over the many decades further affecting results.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




I HAVE HEARD THE ORIGINAL FENDERS AND RIMS WERE 'FLASH CHROME'!
THAT WAS SUPPOSEDLY WHY THEIR CHROME CLOUDED UP OVER A PERIOD OF TIME.

THE OTHER PARTS?


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## kreika (Jun 10, 2018)

Your bike looks like it’s in nice original condition. Have you just tried cleaning it up? It’s only original once and that’s what most collectors desire. I know it’s not for sale. That’s cool it has a Stewart Warner floating hub in the front. What’s under the seat cover?


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

WES PINCHOT said:


> I HAVE HEARD THE ORIGINAL FENDERS AND RIMS WERE 'FLASH CHROME'!
> THAT WAS SUPPOSEDLY WHY THEIR CHROME CLOUDED UP OVER A PERIOD OF TIME.
> 
> THE OTHER PARTS?




Does anyone do "flash chrome" now - whatever that is? - ha - as if they do, that might make the bike more original.  Seriously, my goal is simply to have a functional bike that looks as close to what it did when it was first purchased.  It doesn't bother me at all to replace as many internal parts - bearings, races, chain, screws, nuts, etc. as I can find - I'd just like to keep the major outward appearing parts as they once looked.


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## rustjunkie (Jun 10, 2018)

Heck, it’s made it this far w/o being messed with too much, why not just leave it?
If you don’t know which relative painted it make up a good story and repeat it often, odds are it’ll stick.


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

LOL!  I think my Father repainted it, including the rims black.  All I recall from an early age is that he may have ridden it with me in the non-original basket, then I rode it, until someone said it was a girl's bike due to no upper bar, at which time I finally got a new "fat tire bike" for Christmas.  That bike, whatever it was is long gone but the Compax remained.


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

kreika said:


> Your bike looks like it’s in nice original condition. Have you just tried cleaning it up? It’s only original once and that’s what most collectors desire. I know it’s not for sale. That’s cool it has a Stewart Warner floating hub in the front. What’s under the seat cover?




Hi Kreika, Someone - most likely my Father - repainted it mostly red - as I found a blue/gray paint under the badge/inside the fenders - when I was stripping the paint.  Along with the red paint, the Citristrip removed any evidence of decals, so it could never have been "original" again, as most collectors prefer.   This never was about the bike's value - just sentimental value to me because a descendant will have to sell it - never me.  As for what's under the seat cover, I honestly haven't looked because the seat would be the last thing to go back on.  That said, the seat is off and removed from the bar it attaches to - in anticipation of getting that bar rechromed - but I haven't gotten around to removing the new seat cover.


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## rustystone2112 (Jun 10, 2018)

I took 24 pieces in for chrome for my sisters hawthorne restoration,  a bike like this one pictured,  rims. crank, sprocket, bars, gooseneck rear rack legs and side rails, tank bezel, fork top cover, brake arm ,and misc. barring cups nuts & bolts. Quoted $450.00 and a fast 2 week turn around ,  This will be my first time using this plater so i'm crossing my fingers


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## 41compax (Jun 10, 2018)

rustystone2112 said:


> I took 24 pieces in for chrome for my sisters hawthorne restoration,  a bike like this one pictured,  rims. crank, sprocket, bars, gooseneck rear rack legs and side rails, tank bezel, fork top cover, brake arm ,and misc. barring cups nuts & bolts. Quoted $450.00 and a fast 2 week turn around ,  This will be my first time using this plater so i'm crossing my fingers
> 
> View attachment 822422
> 
> View attachment 822423




Once you get them back please let me know if they did a good or a bad job.   Thanks!


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## rustystone2112 (Jun 10, 2018)

41compax said:


> Once you get them back please let me know if they did a good or a bad job.   Thanks!



will do


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## kreika (Jun 11, 2018)

41compax said:


> Hi Kreika, Someone - most likely my Father - repainted it mostly red - as I found a blue/gray paint under the badge/inside the fenders - when I was stripping the paint.  Along with the red paint, the Citristrip removed any evidence of decals, so it could never have been "original" again, as most collectors prefer.   This never was about the bike's value - just sentimental value to me because a descendant will have to sell it - never me.  As for what's under the seat cover, I honestly haven't looked because the seat would be the last thing to go back on.  That said, the seat is off and removed from the bar it attaches to - in anticipation of getting that bar rechromed - but I haven't gotten around to removing the new seat cover.  View attachment 822411 View attachment 822412




My apologies. I thought I saw a pin stripe on the fenders. That’s what I get looking on a phone. Great project and I hope you get it looking like new!


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## catfish (Jun 11, 2018)

Good plating isn't cheap, and cheap plating isn't good.... Plus it sucks to mail your stuff. I always try to find the best one in the area, even if I have to drive a few hours. No chance of losing stuff in the mail.  And it' is always best to talk to the people doing the plating in person.


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## blasterracing (Jun 12, 2018)

Ed Manuel in Ohio.  edsmetalfinishing@gmail.com.  Or call 440-610-0071.  I have been very pleased with his work and pricing.  Chrome is very expensive in general, but I love restored bikes.  I don't restore them to resell them.  I do it to help preserve Shelby bicycle history and have nice items to pass down to my son.  I understand saving original bikes that are still in nice shape, but feel there is a point where a bike is beyond "original" and needs saved. 

Tim Newmeyer


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## 41compax (Jun 14, 2018)

blasterracing said:


> Ed Manuel in Ohio.  edsmetalfinishing@gmail.com.  Or call 440-610-0071.  I have been very pleased with his work and pricing.  Chrome is very expensive in general, but I love restored bikes.  I don't restore them to resell them.  I do it to help preserve Shelby bicycle history and have nice items to pass down to my son.  I understand saving original bikes that are still in nice shape, but feel there is a point where a bike is beyond "original" and needs saved.
> 
> Tim Newmeyer




Hi,  Sorry for the delay in responding as my Father has needed some extra unplanned help this week and I just got back home - but already know next week will be just as busy with previously scheduled doc appointments.  As soon as I get the chance I will also contact Ed, so thanks for your advice!  Lary


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## Hammer (Jun 21, 2018)

I was browsing ebay for a tank for my bike and ran across this "Rechromed" Phantom tank, and I immediately thought of this thread, this tank is a prime example of a poor prep job and what a rechrome job will look like if a jack leg does the job, the surface was prepped poorly then rechromed, so you can see the pitting underneath, do your research sir, find a shop that you can drive to and see their work, or if you get a recommendation from a Caber that knows the person will prep and do a complete and awesome job, go with that person, just as anything goes, someone that is skilled at a trade and takes pride in what they do, their services are not cheap, remember you pay for what you get! Good luck with your bike

Aaron

P.S. if this tank belongs to someone on here, I'm sorry, I was only using it for educational purposes


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## 41compax (Jun 21, 2018)

Hammer said:


> I was browsing ebay for a tank for my bike and ran across this "Rechromed" Phantom tank, and I immediately thought of this thread, this tank is a prime example of a poor prep job and what a rechrome job will look like if a jack leg does the job, the surface was prepped poorly then rechromed, so you can see the pitting underneath, do your research sir, find a shop that you can drive to and see their work, or if you get a recommendation from a Caber that knows the person will prep and do a complete and awesome job, go with that person, just as anything goes, someone that is skilled at a trade and takes pride in what they do, their services are not cheap, remember you pay for what you get! Good luck with your bike
> 
> Aaron
> 
> ...




Thank you for your advice.  I'm about 40 miles west of Denver, so when I thought about re-chroming, I thought I could get it done somewhat locally and be able to check on them.  Much to my chagrin, the places I called all recommended a place in Washington, which is a little farther away - ha.  That place - according to the pics I've sent them - can do the work for maybe $1000 or more - plus shipping both ways.  I love this bike for sentimental reasons but no matter how much I spend on it, it's never going to be worth more than couple of hundred to my heirs.   Therefore, I'm just trying to justify in my own head what is the best course of action.    The only place that is less than 100 miles away is a "chrome alternative" place - English translation - chrome paint - and I've had zero experience with that.    Thanks again!


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## rustystone2112 (Jun 22, 2018)

rustystone2112 said:


> will do



Got the chrome back today , 24 pieces  $450  and it all looks beautiful.  Quoted me 2 week turn around ended up 3 weeks due to trouble plating the headlight bezel, took a few try's to get it to plate properly.   LM CHROME CORP. Santa Ana


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## bricycle (Jun 22, 2018)

I've been happy with Brian Procter in Mich. Proctors Metal Finishing


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## 41compax (Jun 24, 2018)

rustystone2112 said:


> Got the chrome back today , 24 pieces  $450  and it all looks beautiful.  Quoted me 2 week turn around ended up 3 weeks due to trouble plating the headlight bezel, took a few try's to get it to plate properly.   LM CHROME CORP. Santa Ana
> 
> View attachment 827831
> 
> ...




Thank you, those do look great and for less than half of what I was quoted.  In my case, the time factor isn't all that important but the quality of the re-chome is.  I'll call them next week!


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## 41compax (Jun 24, 2018)

bricycle said:


> I've been happy with Brian Procter in Mich. Proctors Metal Finishing



I'll call him too, thanks!


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## Freqman1 (Jun 25, 2018)

Proctor's is now called Kro Pro and I guarantee they can't beat LM prices. Disclaimer--I've never used LM but I have used Kro Pro (Protors) and what is shown above would be at least double of what LM charged. V/r Shawn


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## 41compax (Jun 25, 2018)

Freqman1 said:


> Proctor's is now called Kro Pro and I guarantee they can't beat LM prices. Disclaimer--I've never used LM but I have used Kro Pro (Protors) and what is shown above would be at least double of what LM charged. V/r Shawn



Thanks too!   I'm waiting on a reply concerning tire size from a different thread - to make sure it's worth re-chroming these rims and not having to change to a different ISO tire/rim - but then I'll be ready to check out chromers.  I did find a "local" - Golden, CO - media blasting shop where I could take my chrome parts and then have them blasted before I ship them and the other parts to be re-chromed.  I really liked the earlier suggestion of getting a local chrome shop where I'd be able to "watch" but since that isn't possible, I think getting everything ready before sending it out would be the next best idea.  That way I'd know how well the steel has been cleaned up.


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## 2jakes (Jun 26, 2018)

Chrome Plating: Introduction & FAQs - Finishing


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## bikesnbuses (Jun 26, 2018)

In case anyone has forgotten.."Proctors" F'd up the 2 pieces that I TOLD them were "irreplaceable" AND labeled as such..not only did they CHARGE me for the destroyed pieces, they NEVER apologized! This isn't just me being petty..it's a direct warning..by a MIRACLE I was able to salvage one(speedo ring) and find a nice reproduction stem collar (thank you Scott McCaskey!)


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## stoney (Jun 26, 2018)

rustystone2112 said:


> Got the chrome back today , 24 pieces  $450  and it all looks beautiful.  Quoted me 2 week turn around ended up 3 weeks due to trouble plating the headlight bezel, took a few try's to get it to plate properly.   LM CHROME CORP. Santa Ana
> 
> View attachment 827831
> 
> ...





If your happy with it and it looks beautiful I am thinking that's a pretty good deal. Glad it worked out for you. I am going to keep them in mind. Thanks.


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## JimRoy (Jun 28, 2018)

WES PINCHOT said:


> IMO!
> I WONDER IF ANY RECHROMER CAN MATCH THE
> FACTORY QUALITY (FINISH) OF THE ORIGINAL CHROME PART?



Yes. My guy in Indianapolis IN can.


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