# Another 1936 Schwinn…



## Eddie_Boy (Jul 5, 2022)

…that I acquired a couple of weekends ago. She's a ’36 Schwinn from a gentlemen I met last year at the Sacramento’s summer bike swap meet. We ran into each other the other weekend at the Union City swap. He mentioned he was selling some old Schwinn bikes. “I’m definitely interested,” I told him. This is what followed me home. I didn’t take a whole lot of pictures, I should have, but here she is.

I believe this to be an unequipped ’36 Schwinn built B97 badged Chicago Cycle Supply La Salle. Several reasons why I was drawn to her. One, she’s a prewar Schwinn and she’s blue, one of my favorite colors. That alone excites me. Two, she’s a straight downtube and that meant a model year with a drop stand. I love drop stand model bikes.

I realize a lot of incorrect items are on her, but the frame, fork and fenders were all intact, consistent patina 'd condition, and in decent shape. That’s more important to me, because the other stuff can be replaced. So another ’36 prewar Schwinn project to get done. I’m excited.

The plan for now is to do up this old gal similar to my recent mini project I did earlier this year, our ’36 Schwinn DBR. I can feel it already, and with the help of a few members here, this will be another fun project for me.


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## catfish (Jul 5, 2022)

Solid start. Good luck with the build.


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## tacochris (Jul 5, 2022)

Mabuhay said:


> …that I acquired a couple of weekends ago. It’s another ’36 Schwinn from a gentlemen I met last year at the Sacramento’s summer bike swap meet. We ran into each other the other weekend at the Union City swap. He mentioned he was selling some old Schwinn bikes. “I’m definitely interested,” I told him. This is what followed me home. I didn’t take a whole lot of pictures, I should have, but here she is.
> 
> I believe this to be an unequipped ’36 Schwinn built B97 badged Chicago Cycle Supply La Salle. Several reasons why I was drawn to her. One, she’s a prewar Schwinn and she’s blue, one of my favorite colors. That alone excites me. Two, she’s a straight downtube and that meant a model year with a drop stand. I love drop stand model bikes.
> 
> ...



Really awesome bike and solid patina.


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## SJ_BIKER (Jul 5, 2022)

Super cool pick up.


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## BF2485 (Jul 5, 2022)

@Mabuhay I have parts .... mine is a 1937...The bike is for sale as a project , or by individual parts , what you see in pics is what you get


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## buickmike (Jul 5, 2022)

Dang, I posted a want ad for dated 36 crank a while back and nobody had one.             . Now people are tripping over them.


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## MrMonark13 (Jul 5, 2022)

Mabuhay said:


> …that I acquired a couple of weekends ago. It’s another ’36 Schwinn from a gentlemen I met last year at the Sacramento’s summer bike swap meet. We ran into each other the other weekend at the Union City swap. He mentioned he was selling some old Schwinn bikes. “I’m definitely interested,” I told him. This is what followed me home. I didn’t take a whole lot of pictures, I should have, but here she is.
> 
> I believe this to be an unequipped ’36 Schwinn built B97 badged Chicago Cycle Supply La Salle. Several reasons why I was drawn to her. One, she’s a prewar Schwinn and she’s blue, one of my favorite colors. That alone excites me. Two, she’s a straight downtube and that meant a model year with a drop stand. I love drop stand model bikes.
> 
> ...



Might be a good candidate for an Oxalic Acid bath? Love blue patina!💙


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 6, 2022)

BF2485 said:


> @Mabuhay I have parts .... mine is a 1937...The bike is for sale as a project , or by individual parts , what you see in pics is what you get
> 
> View attachment 1657461
> 
> View attachment 1657462



Thanks @BF2485.  PM Sent


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 6, 2022)

MrMonark13 said:


> Might be a good candidate for an Oxalic Acid bath? Love blue patina!💙



@MrMonark13, I've never done OA bath on a bike. Not even on painted stuff yet either. Now I've done plenty rust removal of metal and chrome parts soaked in OA though.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 6, 2022)

Here she is when I brought her home for the first time. The ladies stem and bars, the seat, and mis-matched pedals are obviously not correct, so those are all going. The clover 24 tooth front sprocket will go as well. Thankful to the seller for providing a sweetheart sprocket and prewar Schwinn truss rods. The black drop stand with ears is not a Schwinn model, but I bought them for my prewar Shelby.





This was interesting to me. I asked @mr.cycleplane if the downtube graphic were ever painted. He told me they were decals in layers. But this La Salle script seems smooth to me. “Maybe the original base layer of the graphic,” he said. Closer inspection shows some crackling of the white and indications of the original gold leaf and black around the first “a”.









Happy to see the blue color still on the La Salle badge.


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## mr.cycleplane (Jul 6, 2022)

This may help a little on what we see here on the decal. Multi-colored decals are built up in layers. Each color is a 'run' much like silk screening. The layers are extremely thin and measurement is in 'mils'(a decal's layer thickness/measurement for thin-somewhat like sheet metal which is measured in gauge). To keep the same color of the decal on different colored bikes it is necessary to have a common 'base color'(under the original gold color) which is what we see here as 'white'. This base color will reflect the same gold color on the down tube and other decals as well-long after the gold has rubbed off-especially after 75 years of use/abuse and exposure to the elements. Below is an example of the first and probably the thinnest layer rubbing/wearing away and the other areas where there are multiple layers 'surviving'. Nice project Eddie!


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## MrMonark13 (Jul 6, 2022)

Mabuhay said:


> @MrMonark13, I've never done OA bath on a bike. Not even on painted stuff yet either. Now I've done plenty rust removal of metal and chrome parts soaked in OA though.



I’ve never done it myself. I’ve only seen results from other people. I will be trying it this weekend on a free bike.


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## Rear Facing Drop Out (Jul 6, 2022)

OA Baths are worth the effort.  A game changer for some bikes. Doesnt work on all though.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 6, 2022)

mr.cycleplane said:


> This may help a little on what we see here on the decal. Multi-colored decals are built up in layers. Each color is a 'run' much like silk screening. The layers are extremely thin and measurement is in 'mils'(a decal's layer thickness/measurement for thin-somewhat like sheet metal which is measured in gauge). To keep the same color of the decal on different colored bikes it is necessary to have a common 'base color'(under the original gold color) which is what we see here as 'white'. This base color will reflect the same gold color on the down tube and other decals as well-long after the gold has rubbed off-especially after 75 years of use/abuse and exposure to the elements. Below is an example of the first and probably the thinnest layer rubbing/wearing away and the other areas where there are multiple layers 'surviving'. Nice project Eddie!
> View attachment 1657851



@mr.cycleplane makes sense now, with same color base for the different colors used. Thanks for the clarification Tyler. Good stuff.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 6, 2022)

MrMonark13 said:


> I’ve never done it myself. I’ve only seen results from other people. I will be trying it this weekend on a free bike.



Free bike...good idea. Let us know how it goes.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 6, 2022)

Rear Facing Drop Out said:


> OA Baths are worth the effort.  A game changer for some bikes. Doesnt work on all though.



Thanks @Rear Facing Drop Out. Who knows, I may try it someday.


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## Rear Facing Drop Out (Jul 7, 2022)

Mabuhay said:


> Thanks @Rear Facing Drop Out. Who knows, I may try it someday.



You can buy it at most hardware stores. Cheap and Very easy to use.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 7, 2022)

Rear Facing Drop Out said:


> You can buy it at most hardware stores. Cheap and Very easy to use.



@Rear Facing Drop Out, I've been using OA crystals for a while.  Definitely inexpensive compared to Evaporust.  I'll share some images here I'm sure during this project.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 7, 2022)

A quick mockup of the ’36 La Salle before I tear her down. This early Schwinn drop stand I got from BobU a while back. First picture is with the Torrington braced bars and Wald #3 that came from a ’37 Schwinn bike. Second picture is with super wide bars and deco stem I picked up recently. I know the braced bars date this old prewar bike and looks appropriate, but I love riding with wide bars.









Removed the wheels to get started on breaking them down. Both wheels were painted, spokes, nibs, and all; guess they did that a lot, because when I got our ’37, the wheels were the same and not painted well. The front wheel had a ND W, and unfortunately, that was the only thing that was salvageable on that wheel. For me, the Morrow coaster rear hub was a plus. Unsure of the year just yet, surface rust right at the date, but had a square dust cover so a good indication that at least or hopefully this Morrow hub is a prewar. Hoop, spokes, and nibs I will save, so that’s good news on the rear wheel.


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## Frank and Pam Skid Kings (Jul 7, 2022)

Glad I got my 36's, cause your starting to corner the market ! I'll still send out some pic's, just not as ambitious as you getting stuff done. Great job Eddie !  😎


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 8, 2022)

Not much to report this morning other than my decision. Lately, as I am working on this ’36 La Salle, I have been asking myself, “Should I clean or not clean? So yesterday, as I was walking down our old 1930s kitchen galley, outside the window, I see the top of “Sissy” our ’54 Chevy 3100. She’s also blue, my favorite color, and in some areas, top of the cab and the tail gate specifically, not washed or even wiped down. After decades of being exposed to the elements, the tailgate shows its natural two tone look. If you wipe down, the white surrounding the Chevrolet and all the years that created this look, would rub off. So as long as I have owned her, I have never cleaned the tailgate with soap. So after seriously considering whether to clean or not clean, leave “as found”, I finally decided on the latter. I know…not a favorable decision by most, but here’s another reason why. The ’36 La Salle originally came unequipped, no tank, no rack, no light Just like “Cochina” our ’36 DBR. With our DBR, I too left the frame, fork, and fenders uncleaned and as found condition when I got her, and I love that look on her. That’s why I plan to do the same with this blue ’36. It doesn’t mean maybe in the future, I will decide to clean her up and show off more of her pretty Schwinn blue color later. For now I’ll focus on getting her mechanically sound, just like what I did with our DBR. So that’s our plan.  Your thoughts.





"Cochina", '36 Schwinn DcurvedBR




"Sissy", '54 Chevy 3100


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 8, 2022)

Frank and Pam Skid Kings said:


> Glad I got my 36's, cause your starting to corner the market ! I'll still send out some pic's, just not as ambitious as you getting stuff done. Great job Eddie !  😎



Thanks @Frank and Pam Skid Kings.  I look forward to seeing pics of your '36 Schwinn.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 11, 2022)

Removed the fork/steering tube and crankset, only soaked and cleaned the bearings and cones, but kept rest uncleaned . Everything looks good other than the bottom headset race, which I have already ordered and received new from @bicyclebones referred by @mr.cycleplane. Incorrect (postwar) drive side cone. Left side cone also bad, but since I usually replace the BB cones anyway, a new set ordered and received.








24t clover will be replaced. Definitely keeping the crank, dated '36












Postwar drive side BB cone will be replace with correct prewar cone; otherwise, it's in good shape.  Happy to see the top adjusting headset cone also in nice condition.  Will reuse the original open bearing cases.




Pitting marks on the left




New BB prewar Schwinn cones from Luxlow, eBay seller


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 11, 2022)

Took out some used double butted spokes and nibs, thanks @MeadRanger. Only cleaned the spokes, and slightly shook the nibs in a small glass jar of a little WD40.









So after breaking down a couple of rear wheels, I spent a few days soaking and cleaning a total of 3 Morrow hubs. Gary Quail came down to the valley to lace up a few wheels, and we went up to visit our friend, Tyler @mr.cycleplane. Days prior, I told Tyler about these hubs. He said, “Bring them up. I’ll take a look at them. So that’s what we did. As Gary was lacing up wheels for Tyler, I was with Tyler as he took the best parts of the three. The goal was out of the three, to make two solid Morrow hubs, #1 being the best condition parts, #2, second best, and the third the rest of the parts. Tyler even went as far as replacing parts from #1 with better quality from his NorCal stash, like the bearings and lock nuts. @mr.cycleplane is always offering his services to help. Thank you Tyler.




First soaking 




1st Morrow dated '39




2nd Morrow, dated '40, soaking








Mr.cycleplane

What hoops do I use since the entire front was not salvageable and the rear wheel was all painted? Didn’t have any patina or a bit crusty set available, looked out for some at the Keizer swap in Oregon; they had a few but nothing correct drop center wheels. Asked around, and my friend Mr. Quail has a pair of matching and very patina‘d pair from an old 40s Schwinn. Super nice of Gary to offer the hoops to help me out. Wheel parts prepped and they are now ready for Gary Quail, master wheel builder, to do his thing. The Morrow hub you see in this picture will be used, but just the internals of the hub. The 2 hub shells came out so clean, too clean for this project. So a more patina‘d Morrow hub shell will be used instead, currently in route to Gary, to better match the hoops and the condition of our ’36 La Salle.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 13, 2022)

More than likely, as is our ’36 Schwinn DBR, I believe these two models didn’t come with chain guards being narrow fenders and flat fender braces. The DBR didn’t come with one, but I added a prewar Schwinn hockey stick appropriate for the year. For the La Salle, very happy she came with a decent one, much better condition than the DBR’s. It was however painted this deco green color on the inset of the guard, so you know that was coming off.








First application




After an hour's time




Second application




Deco green color paint removed


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## Livmojoe (Jul 13, 2022)

Look'n good Eddie.  Hey btw, if you're missing the nut from the chainguard seat stay clamp, I found it for ya, lol 😜


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 13, 2022)

Livmojoe said:


> Look'n good Eddie.  Hey btw, if you're missing the nut from the chainguard seat stay clamp, I found it for ya, lol 😜
> 
> View attachment 1661629



John, that's funny.  Good eye my friend.  When I picked up the chainguard after this picture, bummed that one screw and nut was missing.  I told myself, "I knew I put these on beforehand so not to loose them.  Glad the screw and bolt were right there.  Relieved.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 13, 2022)

So while I wait for the paint remover to do its thing, I wanted to address the fender guards. The typical tip and tail needed attention of course. The rear fender tail is fragile as you can see, of course by the dreaded pressure of the drop stand. Carefully and slowly went to work using just my smooth jaws Knipex pliers. In the end I think it came out okay. I plan to use a drop stand, so I’ll address the slight tear at a later time.




Another tear...damn drop stands




























Forgot to take pictures, before, when I did the front fender tip.  After straightening.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 14, 2022)

I found this bar recently at the Keizer swap in Oregon thanks to Mark @redline1968.  Looks like these were painted many years ago, and heavy rust through the paint. Came with a deco Torrington stem. Do I leave it alone or do I try to clean it up?  I decided to clean these bars up a bit. Frist, removing removing the thick surface rust . I bought this rust remover gel called Metal Rescue. I initially bought it to remove surface rust on an old 50s Craftsman tool chest that I was refurbishing. Apply, then cover with Glad or Saran wrap, and wait. This gel stuff is good for removing rust from vertical surfaces and large items like these bars. After several hours hoping the warm temperature, in the shade not under direct sun, will help with the process, rinsed in water and did a second application. it worked.












This gel stuff works taking a couple of applications

Good and bad news. The good news, these steerhorns are actually Torrington bars. Super cool.  Didn’t know when I bought it, hidden under the rust and paint. I just knew they were super wide. Mark and I measured, and these are super cool 30” wide. I was thinking there might be some chrome left under the silver paint. So what do I do? I decided to remove the paint. They painted the entire bars and stem; at first, looked like the stem was the aluminum version but wasn't. It took two applications and a very stiff old small brush, and the majority of the paint removed. There was a reason why they painted these bars, there were barely any chrome left; I had a feeling but went for it anyway. In hindsight, I could have left the silver paint after removing the rust; I would have been okay knowing afterwards. I don’t mind the end result either; still killer patina steer horns, more importantly straight, and even better that they are super wide. I will use these.  Now need to find a right stem that will work with these bars.




Bars after rust removal




The underside




First application








Results after first application paint removal




applying second application of removing paint




final results, other than the stem and grips area, all chrome gone


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## MrMonark13 (Jul 14, 2022)

Nice! Do you have any after pics to show how well it worked?


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 14, 2022)

MrMonark13 said:


> Nice! Do you have any after pics to show how well it worked?



@MrMonark13, just added the pictures.


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## MrMonark13 (Jul 14, 2022)

Mabuhay said:


> @MrMonark13, just added the pictures.



Thanks!


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 15, 2022)

It’s a vital tool for the ’36 La Salle and future projects, so I decided to include this. Just last Sunday, I attended the Stockton Swap meet. Met up with John @Livmojoe, right when they opened the gate. Smaller than usual, but Swap meets are fun nonetheless. We ran into our friend, Gary Guail there as well as @slick. Close to 3 hours in, I think we hit most of the area except for the last two aisles.

Let’s go back 6 weeks, and there was one posted by @gymmanager on the CABE advertised on FB Marketplace. John tagged me, but by the time I contacted the seller, I was #2 in line. At that price, slim chance.

Fast forward to last Sunday at the swap when we were thinking that would be it for the day. It was getting warm and we thought we’ve seen most of the swap already. Maybe we would double back since we got there early and more vendors will setting up. Well the last isle we haven’t seen yet, not sure who saw it first, but there it was. A nice commercial Park repair stand complete with base and tray. As soon as I saw it, I wanted it. Earlier that morning, I witnessed John working a ridiculous deal with a seller. Sold! That’s a story in itself, but after that, I’m calling our friend the “Negotiator”. So as we wait for the seller to arrive, I asked John to do his thing and get a deal for me on the stand. Happy to report, the stand is in my garage. I was given a nice portable bike stand from a dear friend and have been using it since. But I see why…this Park repair stand is awesome; I’m stoked to own this one.





That's @Livmojoe "The Negotiator" in the middle and Gary Quail on the right




Park repair stand is so dang heavy.  Needed assistance.  








Spent some time cleaning the stand.  It's in wonderful condition.




Older plastic tray 




Couple of "C" clips missing and will order a replacement for the rubber clamp cover soon.  Already in use for this project.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 19, 2022)

Some brute persuasion needed. First, setup the crankset. After a dry fit with new prewar BB cones, I noticed the distance between the left side crank and chain stay was a little too close. I mean it would work, but it would be better if I can give it another 1/16” or so. The distance on the drive side looked good. So I did what @mr.cycleplane had explained to me one time. I tightened up the crankset and BB. Brought the bike inside and laid the bike on its side, took a long pipe from the handle of my floor jack and slipped it over the left side crank, weight on the right side crank, and gave it a couple of tugs. Happy to report, it worked. Thanks Tyler for the tip.




Crankset and steerhorns in place with Wald #3 stem




Drive side crank (before)




Left side crank (before)  Too close for my liking




@mr.cycleplane tip did the trick




Drive side crank (after)




Left side crank (after).  Much much better




Crankset done

Second, the drop stem. I picked up this drop stem at the Stockton swap the other weekend. I like these stems; I have this model drop stem on a couple of our prewar bikes. And since I was planning to use wide 30” steerhorn bars, my thought was this stem would give us just a little more distance away from the rider. There was a reason why the stem was so cheap; I guess I didn’t look it over very well. Steering tube portion of the stem was out of round and when I put the bars in, the stem was leaning down on the left side. I was talking with @slick, and he said you just need to massage that area to make it round again. And to straighten the drop stem put the bars on and use that for leverage to straighten. Went to my buddies with a monster vice, placed and two brute push on the right side and pull on the left, the stem is now straight. Again a couple CABEr tips did the trick. Thanks Chris.




Options...going with drop stem for now.  Not using the deco stem yet, which came with the steerhorns.  Once setup and test ridden, I'll ask my wife what she likes best.  Who knows, could go with Wald #3 in the end.




If you look closely, the stem is tilting down on the left




Stem is now straight




A now rounded steering portion of the drop stem


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 22, 2022)

The Troxel saddle that came with this ’36 Schwinn was not correct and needed to be replaced. A friend needed that exact model, so the Troxel is now in Texas. Searching for a long spring Messinger B1 Deluxe, I asked around and even for just a chassis of one. A while ago, I acquired a very used leather B1 Deluxe but only the top and pan from Tyler @mr.cycleplane. Another friend was selling a Messinger sliding chassis (short spring), and it was Tyler’s idea that I use both to create one. I have held on to these two pieces and even tried to sell the two at swap meets with no success obviously.








Saddle top I picked up from @mr.cycleplane

I did a trade with my friend Gary for his long spring B1 Deluxe, really nice top with a killer profile saddle, and noticed the chassis was not as nice. Then I thought what if I used the ratty top that I have and the long spring chassis from Gary’s seat? Condition wise, the two items look better together, so that was my plan.








Love the profile on this B1 Deluxe pan

The front carriage bolt was entirely stripped and the nut was fused onto the bolt. Soaked with PO for days on in didn’t work. Also the many attempts to unloosen by me, others, the previous owners, created a round hole from a square opening in the bottom pan to secure the carriage bolt in place. Now that I needed this top, I manually cut the carriage bolt in half. I was then able to break down the seat top, bend and hammer the round opening back to square and straighten the bottom pan along the sides.












Cutting the bolt took a while...




Pan opening at the nose repaired back to square...




My number one helper...





The B1 top that I had is different where I needed bolts to secure the chassis to the pan rather than the three nuts like the B1 I got from Gary. I was told that my saddle top was designed for the short spring sliding saddles. Otherwise the chassis and top seemed to match up fine. Down to the neighborhood ACE hardware, and after two trips, second time bringing both tops, we were able to find the right size bolts for my B1 top. It was an uncommon bolt size, not your standard, I believe M7. Used standard carriage bolt up front. Cleaned up the pans with the help of my granddaughter.




light painters tape to protect the top from handling...

















After assembly, this B1 Deluxe looked like it was meant to be for this project. This saddle, condition wise, looks similar to the saddle on our ’36 DBR, and matches the condition of our ’36 La Salle nicely. I'm stoked with the results.

























Now to find a chassis to replace the nice B1 Deluxe top I got from Gary. Anyone?


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## PlasticNerd (Jul 22, 2022)

Here’s my blue ‘36


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 22, 2022)

PlasticNerd said:


> Here’s my blue ‘36 View attachment 1667143



@PlasticNerd, sweet blue '36 Schwinn.  Very nice.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 22, 2022)

After I posted the seat this morning, a friend told me that the chassis didn't look right.  Didn't look like it at first, but after close inspection, the three side wire frame was twisted just a bit and and out of square.  So this afternoon, I broke down the rear part of the chassis and did some tweaking. Also I had widened at the rear two flat metal pieces of the main chassis right where the handle is.  This was definitely an improvement from before.
























Better now...


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 26, 2022)

Went for a nice day trip to the coast this past weekend. Picked up the wheelset that Gary Quail laced up for me. Gave him all the pieces to build up a wheelset a couple of weekends ago. Last week, I had asked @PlasticNerd  if he had an older Morrow hub with clean races. I bought a Morrow online, but condition wasn’t what I had hoped. That’s why I asked. Gary happened to find a shell stamped F3 for ‘36 in good shape. I bought it, and Gary Quail picked it up the following Friday morning. By the weekend, the wheels were already laced up and trued.

Thank you @PlasticNerd and Gary Quail. A worthwhile trip for my wife and me, seeing and taking care of old bike stuff, visiting a friends, and enjoying the entire day in beautiful Santa Cruz.




Really nice F3 stamp Morrow




'36 Morrow on the left and '37 on the right








Thanks Mr. Quail


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 27, 2022)

It’s time to address a drop stand on this project. This early Schwinn version was not their best setup. Tried it on this ’36 La Salle, worked, but didn’t like the way the stand looked on this bike. When the stand was down, it leaned forward too much and didn’t align with the vertical fender brace. When the stand is up, it was too long past the fender which places a lot of stress and causing the common fender tear that you see often. And lastly, sagged when up, didn’t align with the chain stay.




too much forward lean




Look at how much to modify.  You understand why fenders tear.

Time to modify this early Schwinn version drop stand. Drilled out the original rivets. Brought the ears and legs to my friend Devon, who welded in the 4 holes, 2 on the ears, and two on the legs. Mounted a rear wheel to mock up the stand, carefully making sure I had the setup right, lining up with the vertical fender brace, the chain stay, and shortening the stand not too much that when down, the tire is rubbing on the stand but enough that the stand, when up, doesn’t go way past the fender. Got to comprise a little on the latter two.
















Will not use an original tempered Schwinn clip












Simulating from a later version Schwinn drop stand.  For some reason, this stand had straight legs.




better

I cut the legs down removing around ¼” off the length. Drilled holes on the legs, and once I mocked up the legs on the ears, carefully marked where I needed to drill. This was important, because if off just by a little, it will not line up to the vertical fender brace. I know, because I had to do this twice. That meant filling in the holes on the ears a second time. My mistake.












Filling in my mistake. Don't mind my amateur welding. 

Once everything was cut and drilled, dry fit nicely, what type of fastener options did I have? Originally fastened with cold rivets, I wanted to do the same. Didn’t have any of course. My friend recommended a 16 penny construction nail. It’s the same process, and to my surprise, it worked like a charm. Elation on my part.




After clean up and rounding the tops of the legs




My buddy's idea of a cold rivet...




...using a common 16 penny construction nail.








Original rivet




our version of a cold rivet

I also upgraded my rear fender tail reinforcement specifically for the drop stands. Remember on my ’36 DBR, I added an additional metal cut from an old fender? When I was searching to do the same on this ’36 La Salle, I realized the fender tail of lightweight Schwinn fenders had this lip at the bottom. Makes sense and stronger. So that’s what I ended up using. And while I was at it, I also replaced the first mod on “Cochina” with this new and stronger upgrade.




After cutting and shaping, primed and painted.  Left one is for our '36 DBR and right one is for this project









In the end, the changes on the stand came out great. Yeah, it took some time and several days to make it right.  For me because I dig these drop stands on old bikes, it’s worth the effort I think.  Hopefully this could be of service to those who are on the fence about these stands. If setup correctly, these drop stands are awesome.


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## tryder (Jul 27, 2022)

Mabuhay said:


> It’s time to address a drop stand on this project. This early Schwinn version was not their best setup. Tried it on this ’36 La Salle, worked, but didn’t like the way the stand looked on this bike. When the stand was down, it leaned forward too much and didn’t align with the vertical fender brace. When the stand is up, it was too long past the fender which places a lot of stress and causing the common fender tear that you see often. And lastly, sagged when up, didn’t align with the chain stay.
> 
> View attachment 1670029
> 
> ...


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## mr.cycleplane (Jul 27, 2022)

Every bike restoration or preservation presents a challenge. This bike is proof of that-and its not done! But done enough (under construction!) to be on the annual San Francisco Ride this saturday-can't wait to see it there!


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 28, 2022)

This ’36 Schwinn B67 badged La Salle is as close to being done and ready for big SF ride. For this project, the same approach, going with the “as found” look, keeping the frame, fork, and fenders uncleaned, while overhauling the mechanicals and drive train, hubs, BB, and headset, and replacing worn out parts with new so she rides smooth.

Both being the same year, basic Schwinn pre-war model bikes with narrow fenders and flat braces, my goal was to build a matching pair, the La Salle and Cochina.  

A big shout out to my friends and members here in this CABE community. If I were going to get this project done within a month, I needed parts. If you look at this build, the only items that are original when I brought her home are frame, fork, fenders, and chain guard. That’s it. Oh forgot, and the killer nickel plated seat post.

And thanks to these folks, I got her done.  I’ll start with Mark @redline1968 for the Torrington wide steer horn bars. Even @JAF/CO for trying to help me find a B1 chassis. Thanks Jim for taking the time for me and allowing me to hang out with you. Next is Tyler @mr.cycleplane for helping me with the Morrow hubs and encouraging me to buy the B1 Deluxe top last year. There was a reason why I still had it…worked out great for this project and you’ll see why.  Gary Quail, not only for lacing up the wheelset but also providing the right patina‘ d condition hoops that I didn’t have. Also, while truing up the front wheel on our ’36 DBR, I felt something wasn’t right. So Quail offered me a like new condition, entire guts of a ND W front hub. So thankful to Mr. Quail and Tyler for being part of this project and the many discussions we have had on this project.  Gary @PlasticNerd for the nice condition F3 Morrow hub shell.And since Cochina is riding on very used Carlisle Lightning Dart tires, I got a decent set to use from Chris @slick and John @Livmojoe. Andrew @ADReese for the Torrington pedals, and @badbob for the matching pairs (2) of old coke bottle grips. Thank you fellas.





Before...




...after.




























Script reflector as a place holder, borrowed from one of my other bikes

What fun it was for me to work on this project. It really was. I love the way she (got to give her a name soon) turned out.  Maybe because it was a bike my wife could ride along with my favorite rider, or just another plane prewar Schwinn project for me, or the many conversations with friends and members here. I enjoyed the development of getting her back on the road. I would not have completed this project without help of course. And lastly, thank you CABE for allowing me to share this with you all. Eddie and Mrs.


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## mr.cycleplane (Jul 28, 2022)

total awesome-ness eddie! finished product looks great-will see it saturday on the s.f. ride!


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## tacochris (Jul 28, 2022)

Really killer job buddy and solid attention to detail.  Its a historic artifact you can ride!


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 29, 2022)

mr.cycleplane said:


> total awesome-ness eddie! finished product looks great-will see it saturday on the s.f. ride!






tacochris said:


> Really killer job buddy and solid attention to detail.  Its a historic artifact you can ride!



Thank you Tyler @mr.cycleplane and Chris @tacochris. Appreciate it. This old bike stuff is still fun for me. Not only for getting this old prewar back to live again, but having the support of friends that were part of the process.  That’s what I enjoy the most. So thanks guys.


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## Frank and Pam Skid Kings (Jul 29, 2022)

Wow ! Very nice Eddie !


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 29, 2022)

Frank and Pam Skid Kings said:


> Wow ! Very nice Eddie !



Thanks Frank.  Now share your good looking '36 so everyone can see.


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 29, 2022)

When I first brought her home last month, this is what I envisioned and my inspiration behind this project.  Ready for the S.F. Ride tomorrow.




A couple basic non-equipped model year '36 Schwinn bikes


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## JRE (Jul 29, 2022)

Nice job my Friend.


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## Maskadeo (Jul 29, 2022)

Looks great…nice work!!!!😍


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## Eddie_Boy (Jul 29, 2022)

JRE said:


> Nice job my Friend.






Maskadeo said:


> Looks great…nice work!!!!😍



Thank you Justin and Mike. Appreciate it.


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## Eddie_Boy (Aug 8, 2022)

One last picture to end this thread, her first vintage gathering and ride, the '22 S.F. Ride.  This small project of our '36 Schwinn La Salle is now complete.  Thanks again for letting me share her story with you.





'36 Schwinn La Salle with her cousin, '36 Schwinn DBR


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