# What do you guys recommend to use on a vintage paint job to clean and restore ?



## Sped Man (Apr 10, 2013)

What is the best product out there for restoring the color to an old paint job? Maybe not restore but something to clean it without hurting the pin stripping or two tone finish. What do you use? Who sell it? Is it readily available?


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## bricycle (Apr 10, 2013)

suprized no one chimed in yet...
I believe the general consensus(sp?) is use 0000 steel wool and good 'ol WD-40.
Being extra careful around the decals/pinstriping.
Afterward wax with a good quality car wax.


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## chitown (Apr 10, 2013)

Clean the grease 1st with Simple Green or mild de-greaser using a rag and/or toothbrush.

Then some paste wax and an old wool sock to apply, wipe-off/hand-polish with lint free rag and you are good to go.

Steel wool and WD-40 is good if there is some paint loss and rust emerging from pin holes. This technique can yield some surprising results from what may have looked like a trashed paint job to reveal some original paint you may not have realized was there.

All this depends on the condition of the paint though. It's pretty easy to ruin original pin striping. Proceed with caution.

But of course if you are talking about that Ranger Ace, I think the best thing to do is to give it to me and I'll take real good care of it.:eek:


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## jpromo (Apr 10, 2013)

For pulling the original color back out of the paint and bringing back the luster, I really love Meguiars colorX restorer. It does wonders for dull finishes especially for how little cut it has, which seems next to zero.


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## Gary Mc (Apr 10, 2013)

jpromo said:


> For pulling the original color back out of the paint and bringing back the luster, I really love Meguiars colorX restorer. It does wonders for dull finishes especially for how little cut it has, which seems next to zero.




I agree, love Meguiars colorX restorer after a good cleaning with SimpleGreen.  I also use their rubbing compound when necessary but it will remove pinstripes in a hurry so be careful around those.  Finish with Meguiars Pure Carnauba Wax.  I had to repaint the pinstripes on this bike but rubbing compound was necessary to bring out the original color as well as get off 70 years of dirt, grease, grime, and what looked like coal dust.  There was no other choice on this one, I followed the rubbing compound with Meguiars Polishing Compound, Meguiars colorX restorer,  and finally Meguiars Pure Carnauba Wax. Key is to get it clean and then start with the least damaging product to see if it will get you the results you want, if it doesn't move to the next...

*BEFORE* 






*AFTER*


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## jpromo (Apr 10, 2013)

Nice work, Gary. Liking the bike. What wheelset do you have on that? Is it the Italia CBs?


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## Gary Mc (Apr 10, 2013)

jpromo said:


> Nice work, Gary. Liking the bike. What wheelset do you have on that? Is it the Italia CBs?




Thanks jpromo. Rims are Ghisallo 700c carbon fiber lined wood rims.


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## Nickinator (Apr 10, 2013)

Nice bike gary!


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## Gary Mc (Apr 10, 2013)

Nickinator said:


> Nice bike gary!




Thanks Nick!!!!


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## catfish (Apr 11, 2013)

Wow! That came out nice! 



Gary Mc said:


> I agree, love Meguiars colorX restorer after a good cleaning with SimpleGreen.  I also use their rubbing compound when necessary but it will remove pinstripes in a hurry so be careful around those.  Finish with Meguiars Pure Carnauba Wax.  I had to repaint the pinstripes on this bike but rubbing compound was necessary to bring out the original color as well as get off 70 years of dirt, grease, grime, and what looked like coal dust.  There was no other choice on this one, I followed the rubbing compound with Meguiars Polishing Compound, Meguiars colorX restorer,  and finally Meguiars Pure Carnauba Wax. Key is to get it clean and then start with the least damaging product to see if it will get you the results you want, if it doesn't move to the next...
> 
> *BEFORE*
> 
> ...


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## SirMike1983 (Apr 11, 2013)

Rust: The method I use for particular areas and pits is to hit the spot with a Dremel wire brush. For generalized surface crust there are a couple of methods. If a small test reveals the paint will respond well to Oxalic Acid, I use an Oxalic Acid bath to start, then WD40 with light abrasion. If the piece does not respond well to Oxalic Acid, then I go straight to WD40 with abrasion. That will require more hand work, but eventually get good results. The plus of the Oxalic Acid is the ability to pull rust from very small/tight spots before cleaning up the paint itself. You cannot always do Oxalic Acid though.

Polish: I have been using a tube of Scratch Doctor polish from the local auto parts store. It comes in an orange and black tube. It works pretty well applied with a soft cloth. Most good quality, cream consistency auto polishes will work. There are some drier polishes like Turtle Wax white polish in the plastic tub I don't like those as much. I've also used Simichrome on paint and it works as well, but is expensive to use that way.

Paint: I touch up after I polish. The reason for that is the polishing process sometimes will change the color of the paint a bit by removing faded or rusty layers. After exposing the color tone that will be the finished product, I get a matching paint and fill spots as needed. I like to thin most paints to a more liquid consistency. This allows tighter patching of the finish.


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## supper15fiets (Apr 11, 2013)

That is really nice done !


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## bricycle (Apr 11, 2013)

Wholly Crap Gary.... That is great work!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Justfound (Jul 10, 2013)

*Looking for some confirmations on resoring Huffman Victory Women's*

Sorry to push an older thread and some may say my questions are answered but hope to get some feedback and potentialy better guidance.
Looks like it is a 40-42 Huffman Victory- Has previously chromed handlebars (probably from old stock) but otherwise, the red, white and blue scheme and black painted cranks etc. Serial # fits to the timeframe and both tires are original, stamped, "War Tire". No crown badge as was required for "war bikes" to save metal.
Unfortunately, it was stored in a basement and the fenders and horizontal frame tubes have quite a lot of rust along with beautiful pinstriping and detail. Handlebars are mostly rust, some chrome showing.
I've read a lot on this and other sites (thanks!) and recently done some testing. Oxalic acid looked like a good go for the painted parts so I tried an old metal toy of similar vintage. The rust got knocked down, was less rough and evenly colored but the red paint faded to a pink/ orange after 4 hrs in a 2.5 TBSP/ gal solution at around 85 deg. Not impressed.
Had decent luck on some test spots with ultra-fine scotchbrite and WD-40 or water to knock down the rougher rust and reveal what paint was left. Would like to remove all rough "feeling" rust but am hesitant due to risk of paint removal. This looks like the best approach for the fenders and frame as a start and then a colorx or other gently polish followed by wax is my plan. Probably the same plan for the rims which were white (now "cream") with beautiful red pinstripes. I have a dremel but hesitate to use any steel brush and have not seen any brass ones. 
Do I have concurrence?  
Also- I've tried a product called Picklex-20 and it is a good water weight rust converter and does not need an overcoat to protect steel indoors. It does turn the rust black and the contrast is more than just naturally "smoothing" the rust but it should stop it for a while. Should I use this? It's very pricy but has great reviews in the auto world, I've already bought enough to do the bike and some car work I have in mind so no hit there. Would do after abrasive work, before polish, trying to avoid painted areas although it does not color them.

For handlebars and stem, I think I need to go more aggressive and will likely use kero or WD-40 and 000 steel wool and then just wax and buff as I can. Can't remove the original handlebar grips without damage and would diminish the bike if we replaced.

Any other suggestions?
Fortunately, the New Departure (Model D) brake and New Departure Hubs are in nice shape and had been oiled. Same w/ skip tooth chain (although I hesitate to punch out a pin to remove it!).

Also- Any suggestions for safely removing the original tires without damage? I need to get a tube in one but would prefer to remove both completely while I work the metal. Rubber is pretty cracked on both. I do have pretty extensive bicycle and auto experience and have good spoons to use for removal. I see Armor-all is a no-no but am looking into wintergreen oil and xylene.

Thanks,

David


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