# removing sprocket from rear hub



## wheelygirl (Sep 17, 2013)

So I decided to try (for the first time) to respoke the rear wheel on my skyrider. I have a donor wheel for the spokes and a couple of days off so I figured what the heck I can do it one spoke at a time and take it to be trued if I can't do a reasonable job myself. Seemed like a good plan so I started to do the worst spokes first and then suddenly realized hmmmm this isn't gonna work with the sprocket on there. Doh!!!!! So that seemed easy enough just take the sprocket off. Yeah except there doesn't appear to be a way to do that easily. So I started to look it up online. Nothing. I tried youtube (nothing) and then tried youtube for respoking. Suddenly a light went on! I think there is a fatal flaw in my plan. My question is do I have to remove the entire hub assembly from the brake side to get the sprocket off the hub?


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## Andrew Gorman (Sep 17, 2013)

For re-spoking, eviscerating the hub is probably the easiest way to go.  It needs to be cleaned and greased anyway!  Here is some information on Perrys and an exploded view:
http://rmalverson.blogspot.com/2012/01/perry-coaster-hub.html
To take the sprocket off the driver there is a reverse threaded lock ring,just like on a fixie,  and then the standard threaded sprocket.  These parts are often difficult to get off.  I'd just take the opportunity to inspect the hub.


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## Andrew Gorman (Sep 17, 2013)

If you need help getting it apart, look for a bike co-op near you.  A quick google search for "ontario bike co-ops turned up a bunch.  These places will loan you tools, give you some assistance and check your work.


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## rustjunkie (Sep 17, 2013)

If you've already taken spokes free of the rim, then you might:

1: Put the spokes back into the rim and tighten up not worrying about the wheel being round and true.
    Loosen the lockring enough that a ~credit card will slip between the lockring and the cog.
    Install wheel in bike, attach brake arm strap. 
    Carefully stand on the brake until the cog breaks free, or 
    use Park Tool FFS-1 on a crank arm to apply the brake with controlled leverage, or 
    remove a pedal and slide a long stout pipe over a crank arm to do the same thing. 
    The lockring being just a little loose will allow the cog to break free in a controlled manner.
    Remove lockring, remove cog.

2: Take the guts out of the hub so spokes can be removed. While you have it apart, clean and regrease.

I'd likely go with 2, nothing wrong with rebuilding a hub now and again


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Sep 17, 2013)

*The slots in the rear cog ......*

*First option* 

The slots allow for you to lace the wheel up with that rear cog on the hub ... the same goes for the single slot found on the New Departure rear cogs - just thread it through the slot 

 .... OR ... 
*
Second option *

do the old swap over ... tape a hoop ( rim w/o anything in it ) to the laced rim & just transfer the wheel over one spoke at a time .. I do one side of the hub at a time - that way there are no problems with spokes that cross one another ... easy ... it just takes a little time ... 

*Option three*

I am just putting it up here .. yeah just take out the hub internals along with the axle since you need to probably regrease & service the hub any ways ...

good luck .. Frank


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## rustjunkie (Sep 17, 2013)

cyclonecoaster.com said:


> *First option*
> 
> The slots allow for you to lace the wheel up with that rear cog on the hub...




Now that's just _too easy_


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## fordmike65 (Sep 17, 2013)

alw said:


> If you've already taken spokes free of the rim, then you might:
> 
> 1: Put the spokes back into the rim and tighten up not worrying about the wheel being round and true.
> Loosen the lockring enough that a ~credit card will slip between the lockring and the cog.
> ...




Hmmmm....this sounds _vaguely_ familiar for some reason


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## dougfisk (Sep 17, 2013)

The Perry, being English, is a little different than the American brands.  Usually the easist thing to do is remove the entire driver assembly from the right side, after removing the cone... HOWEVER... the brits call this a "stationary cone", and prescribe removing the axle along with the driver from the right after removing all else from the left side...  In spite of their instructions, I have usually been able to grasp and unscrew the "stationary cone" with some channel lock pliers in order to remove the driver from the axle, from the right, while leaving all else alone.

Having said all that, Franks "First Option" above is probably safest for a novice looking only to addess spokes...

But understand that fully satisfactory performance and longevity can't be taken for granted until you service the hub.  It is a great learning experience and usually costs nothing more than a little cleaning solvent and grease.


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## wheelygirl (Sep 17, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for the info. I tried threading the spokes thru the cutouts in the sprocket but somehow was only able to figure out how to get the spokes on the inside of the hub thru there. I must be a little thick. lol

Anyway I decided it was probably a good idea to take the hub apart. No sense in avoiding it. It was a little worrisome. I thought for sure all these pieces would fall apart in my hands and I'd be screwed but everything came apart really easy. I got to this stage using absolutely no tools other than my hands and a set of pliers.






Once I got the nut off that was holding on the brake arm I grabbed the axle bolt on the sprocket side with the pliers (the end was square I guess for this purpose) and gave the brake arm a good twist and everything just loosened right up. I was surprised how easy it was. Everything seems to be in decent shape so I just did a really good cleaning and am gonna put it back together. I got all the spokes in. The old ones were pretty crappy. It looks much better now.





Now just for the back together and the trueing.


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## rustjunkie (Sep 17, 2013)

Nice going!



wheelygirl said:


> I tried threading the spokes thru the cutouts in the sprocket but somehow was only able to figure out how to get the spokes on the inside of the hub thru there. I must be a little thick...




Not thick at all! As I said: that's too easy!


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