# fender removal



## ndrtkr (Aug 5, 2009)

First let me introduce myself.....I'm new to the CABE, so glad to be here.  I'm restoring an early 40's Westfield Columbia, and need some help.  There is what appears to be a square bolt or nut on the bottom of the front forks that has to be removed in order to remove front fender.  Question is.... How do you remove it?  I've turned it both ways, but with no results.  This is my first attempt at restoring a bicycle, and sure don't want to mess anything up.

Anyone willing to help, I sure would appreciate it!

Thanks, Ndrtkr


----------



## kunzog (Aug 5, 2009)

Remove the handlebar neck stem and look down the fork neck. There will be either a hex head bolt you can access with a socket and long extension or most likely a screw which you can access with a long screw driver.


----------



## ndrtkr (Aug 5, 2009)

kunzog....Thanks for the quick reply, but there is nothing but the fork shaft in the frame tube. (no type of hex nut or anything) Could it possibly be broken off and just need tapping out with a long slender punch?


----------



## kunzog (Aug 6, 2009)

It is possible that the head is broken off but more likely it is a threaded stud if you cant see anything down the stem. I would try first to grip the nut with vice grips and pull while trying to unscrew it. If all else fails you could cut it off flush with a hack saw blade, drill and tap or drill and use a self threading sheet metal screw.


----------



## ndrtkr (Aug 6, 2009)

kunzog said:


> It is possible that the head is broken off but more likely it is a threaded stud if you cant see anything down the stem. I would try first to grip the nut with vice grips and pull while trying to unscrew it. If all else fails you could cut it off flush with a hack saw blade, drill and tap or drill and use a self threading sheet metal screw.




Thank you, thank you.......IT IS OFF!..I ended up being able to grab the frozen nut under the fender with vise grips.  It was rusted forzen so badly I had to rock the bolt backwards and forwards until it snapped.  Now just replace the bolt and I'm in business.  

Thank again.....


----------



## clark (Sep 25, 2009)

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx:eek:


----------



## Strings-n-Spokes (Sep 25, 2009)

It's not as bad as it sounds, but there was a slot for a screwdriver in the top of that bolt wasn't there Ndtkr?   They just require a pretty long screwdriver. Those Westfields had a pretty smart method of fender mounting.


----------



## pedal alley (Sep 25, 2009)

*gettig in a hury*

with a good oil , & patience 
could have saved:
1.the original bolt.
2.extra work drilling/tapping.
3. money for replacement
    (if one can be found)

anywho, ya got the 
fender removed.
enjoy your project.


----------



## ndrtkr (Sep 26, 2009)

Strings-n-Spokes said:


> It's not as bad as it sounds, but there was a slot for a screwdriver in the top of that bolt wasn't there Ndtkr?   They just require a pretty long screwdriver. Those Westfields had a pretty smart method of fender mounting.




Yes,....there was a slot for a screw driver, but long since damaged by previous removals to the point a screwdriver would not hold it enough to turn the BADLY rusted nut.  Threads on bolt had actually rusted off.  No problem whatsoever, as I have a small blacksmith set-up and hand-made an exact duplicate of the bolt from turned down hardened steel and replaced .  After rethreading the new bolt, ....back up and going.  Total cost...  .02?


----------



## Strings-n-Spokes (Oct 5, 2009)

Is it kinda like my Westfield?  I have been tinkering on this guy and it is turning into one of my favorite bikes.


----------



## Monark52 (Oct 5, 2009)

Here`s a pic of mine. A 1945 with all the blackout trim. It`s probably my best cruising bike. Anyone else have one? Let`s see the them.


----------



## ndrtkr (Oct 8, 2009)

Yes, Shane....very similar, only a military version produced for the
war effort during WW II.  Fenders, chain guard,& similar frame.  If
you know anyone who has a spare front fender (just like yours) I'm
in need of one.  The fender on mine had been replaced with an in-
correct one at some point in time before I found it.  I've been doc-
umenting the restoration.  I have'nt mastered posting pics here, but
I will, and post some of before & afters.


----------



## Strings-n-Spokes (Oct 8, 2009)

A peaked fender with flat braces.   Would the military version have the ducktail?

Weird seeing your bike Monark52 , like looking at mine but in such good shape.


----------



## partsguy (Oct 8, 2009)

You made you first mistake by breaking the bolt . Congrats. I say this because no restoration can go by without one thing breaking or having to be replaced. Take my word for it, I'm 16, but have learned well. I think my first screw up was a seat pan (sucker was rusted to peices). In case you don't know, the seat pan for a bike is what a floor pan is on a car.


----------



## ndrtkr (Oct 9, 2009)

Strings-n-Spokes said:


> A peaked fender with flat braces.   Would the military version have the ducktail?
> 
> Weird seeing your bike Monark52 , like looking at mine but in such good shape.




Yes, the ducktail is present.  Basically same fender as civilian model, and having a Delta fender light mounted on the top of the fender.  My light is intact, and in working condition.  It was just mounted on incorrect replacment
fender.  Any help in finding a correct replacement sure would be appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## Bozman (Nov 13, 2009)

Saw your post about you fender bolt. I just finished restoring a Compax Paratrooper model to WW2 specs. I was missing my front fender and the rear fender was torn up. I found a WW2 NOS rear fender and took the sheet metal of the old rear fender and fashioned a new front fender from that. (Front fender braces from Wald). A little JB Weld to fill in the old holes and some sanding and BINGO new front fender! It will hold out until I find an original. I also replace the front fender slotted bolt with a stainless steel bolt of same length and size but with a standard bolt head vice the slotted head. This will make it easier to remove late and you can't tell the difference unless you take the bike apart. Will post some before and after pics later. I love military bikes! I am now looking for a MG series Westfield/Columbia to restore.


----------



## Bozman (Nov 13, 2009)

Here is a before and after pic of my Compax Paratrooper. I will post some clearer pics when I resize them.


----------



## BWbiker (Nov 13, 2009)

*Fenders for your bike....*



ndrtkr said:


> Yes, the ducktail is present.  Basically same fender as civilian model, and having a Delta fender light mounted on the top of the fender.  My light is intact, and in working condition.  It was just mounted on incorrect replacment
> fender.  Any help in finding a correct replacement sure would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks



 I have a pair I would sell together. The front is peaked with duck tail, the rear is peaked but no duck tail. I believe I have both of the braces too. Brad


----------



## ndrtkr (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks, I think I have found fenders.  If they don't work out, I'll get back to you....


----------



## Bozman (Nov 14, 2009)

BWbiker said:


> I have a pair I would sell together. The front is peaked with duck tail, the rear is peaked but no duck tail. I believe I have both of the braces too. Brad




Since Karl doesn't need them I'm interested in them. Can you send me pics? I will PM you with my email address.

All the Best,

Boz


----------



## ndrtkr (Nov 15, 2009)

Boz, you probably know this,...Although the civilian fenders are identical to those used for the production of the MG, most civy fenders are riveted to 
the braces more to the outer edge than there military counterpart.  Not a problem to fix, but will need some attention.  My front fender is a civy fender that I will have to modify by changing the riviet location.    Just one of those......fyi's


----------



## BWbiker (Nov 15, 2009)

*Fenders...*

I e-mailed you more pic's Boz. Brad


----------



## Strings-n-Spokes (Nov 15, 2009)

Are they rivets or bolts?

Mine has bolts  I can remove the fenders to straighten up the braces etc.


----------



## ndrtkr (Nov 15, 2009)

Strings-n-Spokes said:


> Are they rivets or bolts?
> 
> Mine has bolts  I can remove the fenders to straighten up the braces etc.




Rivets would be correct for the military version.  I can't speak for all civy
versions, but would think they would be riveted also??  I do know the civy 
front fender I used on my restoration is riveted.


----------



## Strings-n-Spokes (Nov 16, 2009)

Hmmm I think it was my Hawthorne, that I got at the same time that has bolts.

I am sure my Westfield DOES have rivets, my mistake.


----------



## Bozman (Nov 30, 2009)

ndrtkr said:


> Boz, you probably know this,...Although the civilian fenders are identical to those used for the production of the MG, most civy fenders are riveted to
> the braces more to the outer edge than there military counterpart.  Not a problem to fix, but will need some attention.  My front fender is a civy fender that I will have to modify by changing the riviet location.    Just one of those......fyi's




I have noticed that the rivets are different on the fenders now that you mention it. The new civy fenders are noticably riveted further out away from the center line of the fender......Ahhhh more work to finish thing up. Luckily on my Compax fender that I built I used the rivet width from the NOS rear fender I have so I'm good to go! Shhhhh don't tell anyone but I used the "screw rivets" to attach fron braces. One day I'll actually rivet them properly.......nahhhh........ it looks goo just the way it is now!


----------

