# Need advice to restore ugly old decals



## Dave Stromberger (Mar 17, 2020)

I've run across this problem more than a few times... the clear area of the decals have decayed and lifted. My first inclination is to carefully scrape away the clear areas, but maybe there's a better solution... any ideas?


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## Autocycleplane (Mar 17, 2020)

I would try to channel my inner @fordmike65 and leave it. Until I got bored and started messing with it....

Have you tried your favorite polish, avoiding the letters?


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## Lamont (Mar 17, 2020)

I too would like to hear from those that have had success with this.


I've tried a few approaches ....   in some cases had satisfactory marginal improvement.      other times mutilated/ made worse. 

  Obviously there are different types of transfer materials, some that hold up better .... in some cases you can 1.  exacto trim away the clear margin areas that are problematic ( lifting / abrated)  and dont carry any of the graphic.    2.  Also: in some cases, very precisely apply paint over the decal to repair letters/ lines....   3.  Heat gun and a rubber roller to push bubbles to the edges.... 
On the example pic of your Varsity  it appears the discoloration is underneath, not on the surface.


Agree with not  picking the scab:

Best solution is:      *Try standing farther away from the bike when looking at it*.
Then, if it still bothers you , and you cant put it out of your mind .._move away from the bike_! and *tell yourself you will not mutilate it until* you have searched online for replacement decal i'm amazed at the breadth and depth of replacement vintage graphics/transfers available, often at very reasonable cost.

Hope others have a good technique to share.


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## GTs58 (Mar 17, 2020)

I've been using my favorite car products on my bikes for 10 years now and have darn good luck cleaning up decals with it as long as they're not chalky. Even use it on the wrap around seat tube decals on these and the Corvettes that have turned brown. I've heard that a damp Magic Eraser also works well but haven't tried those yet.


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## Saving Tempest (Mar 18, 2020)

Doesn't @bicyclebones  have the decals? Or one of our members with Schwinn in their name and specialty online?

You can remove the decals gently and leave the paint with care, IIRC it's not too hard.


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## Saving Tempest (Mar 18, 2020)

PS Don't scrape...you want to use something to dissolve the plastic without hurting the finish.


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## schwinnbikebobb (Mar 18, 2020)

I always use a wet Mr Clean Magic Eraser. I prefer the original ones.  This took about 3 minutes to do. Keep checking it to make sure you are not taking any of the decal or paint off.  You can finish with polish if you want.





View attachment 1157854


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## Dave Stromberger (Mar 18, 2020)

Thanks for the recommendation guys. If I go the new-decal route, I'm afraid it might look too new. I think I have some NOS decals even.

I'm really digging the results you got there @schwinnbikebobb ... nice job!   I bet the mild abrasive nature of the Mr. Clean pads is similar to that of the polishing compound.  Basically, you're polishing the clear part of the decal off.


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## rennfaron (Mar 18, 2020)

First thought is Micro sol and Micro set. I would imagine it would work on a decal that has long been set. This stuff is awesome! For bubbles, take a needle and just prick the surface and use a soft bush to massage out the air. Also when working on getting it all set again use the soft brush to work the surface and smooth it all out. Work very, very lightly. The more pressure you apply while working the surface could potentially lift the decal up and move it around. 

I forget what each does but usually just reference a youtube to get it straight before use.


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## Dave Stromberger (Mar 18, 2020)

rennfaron said:


> First thought is Micro sol and Micro set. I would imagine it would work on a decal that has long been set. This stuff is awesome! For bubbles, take a needle and just prick the surface and use a soft bush to massage out the air. Also when working on getting it all set again use the soft brush to work the surface and smooth it all out. Work very, very lightly. The more pressure you apply while working the surface could potentially lift the decal up and move it around.
> 
> I forget what each does but usually just reference a youtube to get it straight before use.




Very interesting! I actually have some of this stuff. I used it back in my model building days 25+ years ago.  I hadn't thought about using it to repair bubbled bike decals, but seems like aught to work just like you suggest. I think in the case of my bike though, with what appears to be dirt under the clear part, it wouldn't help... but it may be worth trying anyhow.


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## rennfaron (Mar 18, 2020)

Dave Stromberger said:


> Very interesting! I actually have some of this stuff. I used it back in my model building days 25+ years ago.  I hadn't thought about using it to repair bubbled bike decals, but seems like aught to work just like you suggest. I think in the case of my bike though, with what appears to be dirt under the clear part, it wouldn't help... but it may be worth trying anyhow.



I would test out that magic eraser trick first on a small area. What might look like dirt embedded under the surface but may be dirt embedded on the surface and into the decal. Those magic erasers are like a very fine pumice stone and slowly strip away layers. You may get some of that embedded dirt off with the erasers and then follow up with the Micro sol / set to improve the look of the decal. And there is no equivalent for the magic eraser, like oh I will just use this instead. I tried a bunch of different things in lieu of the erasers, to not spend the money, and it's gotta be the magic eraser... As you know it is all about the right tools and right sequence of processes to get the best results. Sometimes I hate all the crap I have to do to get each part to look good because each part / material requires something different.


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## Dave Stromberger (Mar 18, 2020)

rennfaron said:


> I would test out that magic eraser trick first on a small area. What might look like dirt embedded under the surface but may be dirt embedded on the surface and into the decal. Those magic erasers are like a very fine pumice stone and slowly strip away layers. You may get some of that embedded dirt off with the erasers and then follow up with the Micro sol / set to improve the look of the decal. And there is no equivalent for the magic eraser, like oh I will just use this instead. I tried a bunch of different things in lieu of the erasers, to not spend the money, and it's gotta be the magic eraser... As you know it is all about the right tools and right sequence of processes to get the best results. Sometimes I hate all the crap I have to do to get each part to look good because each part / material requires something different.




Good thoughts. We have a Magic Eraser in the house, I'll try it in a few moments.

I was looking at the decal closer and what appears to be dirt under the clear part, now looks to me more like yellowing. It looks yellow/brownish where the clear is lifted... the "bubble" really couldn't get dirt under if it's not broken, so...


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## Dave Stromberger (Mar 18, 2020)

Here is the result.

First I went over it with a "cutting" compound, what automotive re-finishers use to remove fine scratches and debris on paint, this helped quite a bit. I suspect this does the same thing that Magic Eraser would do.

Second, I tried the decal solvent "Solvaset"... it wets the decal and makes the ugliness go away while its still wet.. wish I could maintain this look permanently!  It softens the decal, but it never did let it lay back down like I'd hoped, or make it invisible after it dried.  It looked a bit better, but not much.  Then I tried rubbing the solvent with my finger after it had softened it a bit, but was still wet... wow, now we're in business! This "balled up" a lot of grunge. rubbing off all the surface dirt and some of the flaky clear, bringing back the brightness of the lettering.

Finally, after it was dry, I rubbed it down with a finish/polishing compound.

The result looks a lot better, but still not perfect.  I suppose it looks "old" still, and that's okay!  If I want perfect, I think removing the decal and replacing it is the only way.

I didn't try the Magic eraser... maybe on the other side I'll give that a go.


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## rennfaron (Mar 18, 2020)

Dave Stromberger said:


> Here is the result.
> 
> First I went over it with a "cutting" compound, what automotive re-finishers use to remove fine scratches and debris on paint, this helped quite a bit. I suspect this does the same thing that Magic Eraser would do.
> 
> ...



Definitely a big improvement. Give that magic eraser a shot. Also, I have watched enough of those solvent decal videos to know you can keep working at it but have to do it in passes and let it re-set each time. My understand of it is that you can only work it so much at a time and leave it wet with solvent for so long before it needs to set and try again. On the flip side of that is that I think you could overwork a decal so you need to watch out for that too. I put down a new decal a while back and had to go over it a few times with solvent to get it to look really nice. That said, I don't know how much nicer you need to get it to look because it looks pretty nice, aged and like you said if you want it perfect you need to start all over with a new decal.


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## Dave Stromberger (Mar 18, 2020)

rennfaron said:


> Definitely a big improvement. Give that magic eraser a shot. Also, I have watched enough of those solvent decal videos to know you can keep working at it but have to do it in passes and let it re-set each time. My understand of it is that you can only work it so much at a time and leave it wet with solvent for so long before it needs to set and try again. On the flip side of that is that I think you could overwork a decal so you need to watch out for that too. I put down a new decal a while back and had to go over it a few times with solvent to get it to look really nice. That said, I don't know how much nicer you need to get it to look because it looks pretty nice, aged and like you said if you want it perfect you need to start all over with a new decal.




Good thoughts.  Yep, I'm happy enough with it the way it is now.  Don't want it to look "worked".  I've used this Solvaset for new decals before, particularly on curved surfaces. Stuff is essential to get the decals to lay down nice!


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## GTs58 (Mar 19, 2020)

Wonder if TW's rubbing compound is better than the automotive stuff you used. See @schwinnbikebobb 's decal above, and his decal backing was not even deteriorated like yours. I've done the same decal cleaning using the TW rubbing compound. I use an old inverted Hanes sock over my hand, put a dab on the sock and use your finger to start the controlled rubbing process somewhat avoiding the actual decal printing. I keep the sock moist with the compound lightly rubbing until the backing is gone and then wipe off the residue when dried.


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## Dave Stromberger (Mar 20, 2020)

GTs58 said:


> Wonder if TW's rubbing compound is better than the automotive stuff you used. See @schwinnbikebobb 's decal above, and his decal backing was not even deteriorated like yours. I've done the same decal cleaning using the TW rubbing compound. I use an old inverted Hanes sock over my hand, put a dab on the sock and use your finger to start the controlled rubbing process somewhat avoiding the actual decal printing. I keep the sock moist with the compound lightly rubbing until the backing is gone and then wipe off the residue when dried.




I think Bob's decal has a different kind of aging to it than mine. His looks to be mostly just dirty. My decal has- bubbles/lifting under the clear parts that flaked off when polished.


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