# ‘73 raleigh Competition



## slowride (Mar 9, 2019)

Hello Cabers! I justified this bike as potential huret jubilee spares for the ‘74 Super tourer I bought 4 months prior (mounting bolt on Fd is bent due to someone over tightening) . Well this bike is too nice to part out in my opinion so another project!
One of the rRaleigh 501pedals had bent shaft so I found this set locally and bow did they clean up! I know their heavy as lead but do they shine!
The bike had been used for a time outside it seams so surface rust. If an OA bath it would of lost a lot of paint so instead for now clean and wax and chain lube on the inside . In the future maybe this will be my first to get professionally repainted and new transfers as no dents and straight and chrome is good. for now going to get it back on the road.
Sadly original nisi or ava sew up wheels gone. In their place steel rigidas from Grand Prix with Normandy high flange. I’m trying to be positive by thinking these are better for the rough streets here.
But a couple problems: 1) again with the over tightening! Look at stem and you’ll see a crack ; maybe with light use it’s ok but not going to chance it. Wish I had a tig i think maybe an easy job and where it is you would not see it. So then I found a 74 Grand Prix for the price of a couple pizzas but alas jts all original made in Carlton plant and I can’t bring myself to do it!

And although cosmetic, brake levers mismatched . Ah!

Let me know if you have a GB stem with shortish reach and set of weinmann levers “drilled” you’re not using and Rotting in a drawer!

How fragile are these Carlton hoods? I would rather have mismatched levers than torn/ aftermarket hoods...

Would like advice on 1) bar tape ; thinking cotton black,(brand , where you buy)  2) cable and cable housings ( brand, where you buy).

Thanks everyone! Steve

First 7 pics before and the rest of pics after/ current state


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## slowride (Mar 9, 2019)

More pics


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## slowride (Mar 9, 2019)

New grease and bearing balls in pulleys. Roll on!


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## slowride (Mar 9, 2019)

Shifters and other bits cleaned up..


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## fat tire trader (Mar 9, 2019)

Hi Steve,
I probably have an extra GB stem. I will look later today.
Chris


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## slowride (Mar 9, 2019)

Thanks Chris, appreciate you looking!


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## juvela (Mar 9, 2019)

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Good work happening on your premises!  **

*Appears wheels and saddle are the only replaced components in addition to the mentioned brake lever.*

*Keep in mind that lever replacement likely due to crash.*

*Check bar and frame for any sign of deformation.  Stem crack may have occurred in same event which necessitated lever replacement.*

*Lever tip - when Weinmann relieved these levers they failed to chamfer the edges of the relief slots.  This always bugged me when I have had occasion to use them.  Suggest going around the edges of the slots with a jeweler's file or Dremel to deburr them.*

*In case you wish them replica replacement transfers are available for the crank arms.*

*Original handlebar wrap was non-adhesive ribbed black plastic.  Do not know brand name.  The Sir Wally experts are sure to know...*

*-----*


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## slowride (Mar 9, 2019)

Hello Roger, did not think of accident. No signs at all if any deformation on frame where tubes meet head tube. Checked the bars multiple times; they are perfectly symetrc , no deformation, or cracks;


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## fat tire trader (Mar 10, 2019)

slowride said:


> More pics
> 
> View attachment 961346
> 
> ...




I found a couple stems. It looks like you have one in this picture. Are you looking for one that is shorter? Do you have the bolts?


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## slowride (Mar 10, 2019)

I have all the hardware but I checked handlebars again and one side is very slightly bent so I think I’ll take that out of commission too now. Before you look any further for GB stem / bars I have a local lead given to me of a local bike store that has some old parts . Going to take a look now. Appreciate you following up.


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## juvela (Mar 10, 2019)

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Lemme guess...

bar deformation was on side which wore replacment brake lever

bar appears to be bend Gerry & Co. term Maes -








remember to check pedal spindle on that side to verify it did not get bent in the event

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## slowride (Mar 10, 2019)

Hello Roger , I checked photos but apparently did not record which side the replacement lever was on. I can tell you the bent pedal shaft was on the right pedal.

I was able to score two GB stems (one 90mm like original on this bike and a 75mm) and a Maes bar and another GB bar I don’t see in the catalogue pic (thanks Roger I was looking for that). Let me show you how bent the original bar is. It’s so slight I don’t even know if it’s an issue but I’m sure you guys will know ( can’t see any cracks but bar doesn’t mean there aren’t micro cracks that could propagate under tape and then fail?)

To demonstrate I show the “new bar and stem against the “accident “ bar which has no stem. Tell me what you think.

Next question the other GB bar I found looks like the bar that was on the gran sport of same timeframe (73,74) I believe they called it radonneur. It has markings on the end (see photo)saying “GB British Made.” Im thinking of temporarily putting it and the 75mm stem on the RRA until I get the right parts .

Also scored a set of atom440 pedals (these say schwinn approved) with intact reflectors for the ‘74 Super Tourer(thread to come); and a nice intact simplex prestige front for either the GP which has a cracked but (for now) functional one or to get the RRA some exercise....


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## slowride (Mar 10, 2019)

To Avoid confusion here are unknown GB bars. Radonneur?


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## slowride (Mar 10, 2019)

fat tire trader said:


> I found a couple stems. It looks like you have one in this picture. Are you looking for one that is shorter? Do you have the bolts?



Hello Chris, thanks again for looking for GB stem but got a lead yesterday  and was able to locate locally today.


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## juvela (Mar 10, 2019)

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This sounds like a fine parts find you made!  

Good job with the imagery.

One can clearly see how the right side is pushed in on the stemless bar.

You could always attempt a cold setting with the aid of an automobile jack or similar...

Aluminum can be spooky with respect to failures.

Shall look forward to seeing the Super Tourer.

To be period correct for any of the three Raleighs discussed the Atom 440's you took in should be the late type with the smooth chrome dustcap which is press fit.

Pedal tip -

If you intend to retain the Competition as a rider was going to suggest replacing its pedals as they are easily the worst component on the bicycle.  Assembled a number of new 1970's Raleighs which came with them.  Some were missing two or three ball bearings.  Some had blobs of metal _in_ the bearing race.  Of course if you wish to make it as close to ex-works as possible then you would wish to stay with this model...

Best wishes with these cycles.

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## juvela (Mar 10, 2019)

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[did not see Randonneur bar until after posting above message]

It appears that the trail on its left side angles outward compared with the trail on the right side.

Fairly unusual for trail to get bent outward so if you can perceive a difference between the two sides the odds are that the right side has been bent inwards a bit.

Possible this appearance may be due to perspective.  Since you are there in person you can check it.

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## slowride (Mar 10, 2019)

I think I’ll leave the “accident “ bars off and just shelve them. I found very good condition replacement 501s and completely cleaned repacked and they sparkle and spin very smooth shafts straight on these (picture enclosed) ; for sure heavy and crude compared to the atoms.  also picture for total parts haul for the day! Many thanks for all advice !


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## juvela (Mar 10, 2019)

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Wow, those 501's even have clear Sir Wally stamps on the dustcaps!  

More often they are just a smudge.

Tip on Prestige mech anterior -

check and make sure clamp is made for 28.6mm tube before mounting.

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## bulldog1935 (Mar 13, 2019)

your bike cleaned up really well - great effort. 

Raleigh definitely used GB Maes bend. 
I still have my '76 Grand Prix Bars, which I re-used first on my Lenton



When Tad gave me a set of GB Map of England bars that he brought home from Art Link's collection,
took that cockpit off intact, and stashed it (it's still lovely), to install the new one with GB Arrett brake levers
I much prefer the reach on these bars, but the drop is a touch greater


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## harpon (Mar 13, 2019)

Put a few of those together back in the summers of '73 and '74 at the old Bicycle Peddler in Indianapolic-  only came in the black as I recall.  Not a huge seller at $225, the city wasn't then ready for club bikes that cost more than the entry levels.

I also used the Huret Jubilee derailleurs for a couple of years racing- the were advertised as the World's lightest. and they worked as well as Campy, but the front cage wore quickly

I recall that GB handlebar ad somehow.

nice finds.


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## juvela (Mar 13, 2019)

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Back in post Nr. 1 you asked anent handlebar wrap.

The ribbed non-adhesive black plastic wrap which would have been original equipment can be seen on the RRA posted by @harpon.

You mention cotton wrap.  The adhesive cotton twill of the day favoured by enthusiasts was Tressostar.  Lower quality was the lighter weight Tressorex.

Both product lines issued from the French firm Velox  -

http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=59293

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## slowride (Mar 13, 2019)

Yes only in Black. Catalog pic does not show sloping crown although listed in spec sheet. 1973 was only year for Capella lugs used on international, competition, and SC.


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## juvela (Mar 13, 2019)

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Full sloping crown on subject machine was produced by UK foundry Harrington.

Its proportions are unique, differing from those of Cinelli, Tange, etc.

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## slowride (Jun 7, 2019)

Hello everyone,

Getting closer to finish line! Replacement bars and stem to replace those damaged. Period weinmann levers to replace mismatched set. PO improperly spread rear triangle to 125mm but did not align. I made a homemade alignment tool (RJ bike guy) and cold set to original 120mm and aligned. Few new cables , bar tape, tires, tubes. ‘73 GS wheelset in al alloy to replace GP set in steel that came with; borrowed pro saddle from another project bike. Now I need to true wheels.
Anyone have a nice truing stand they would consider selling for reasonable price?

Special thanks to Roger for advice and encouragement!

Cheers, Steve


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## non-fixie (Jun 8, 2019)

Thanks for the update. Much appreciated!

I like the French fit. Looks very comfy.


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## HARPO (Mar 9, 2021)

Beautiful! What would one go for in that current condition?


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## slowride (Mar 9, 2021)

HARPO said:


> Beautiful! What would one go for in that current condition?



Thanks for the compliment! That’s a good question. I’ve seen prices all over the place. Geography plays a big part from what I’ve seen. Here in Midwest I would think somewhere between 300 and 400.


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## messenger390 (Mar 11, 2021)

slowride said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Getting closer to finish line! Replacement bars and stem to replace those damaged. Period weinmann levers to replace mismatched set. PO improperly spread rear triangle to 125mm but did not align. I made a homemade alignment tool (RJ bike guy) and cold set to original 120mm and aligned. Few new cables , bar tape, tires, tubes. ‘73 GS wheelset in al alloy to replace GP set in steel that came with; borrowed pro saddle from another project bike. Now I need to true wheels.
> Anyone have a nice truing stand they would consider selling for reasonable price?
> ...



Hol


slowride said:


> Thanks for the compliment! That’s a good question. I’ve seen prices all over the place. Geography plays a big part from what I’ve seen. Here in Midwest I would think somewhere between 300 and 400.



Holy Moly Slowride that is one correct restoration! Such  a beauty . .. Thanks for sharing . .. 

I realize this thread is a couple of years old, but thought I'd take the time to add my 2 cents and share pics of my 73 Raleigh Competition. Sadly, not a correct restoration. But it does ride well!

I got it from a local bike shop owner and his girlfriend rode it so hard through a salty winter herein Toronto that the original rims wore through at the brake surface. Found some Wolber Alpine rims and presto! The original bar was missing, so used a Cinelli bar and Shimano stem with Lizard skin tape. Also found the original brake levers kind of unsafe, so went with modern Tektro levers for practical pedalling. The original pedals were also toast, so went with MKS titanium platforms. Saddle is Brooks Professional with titanium rails. Also, original shift levers weren't in good shape (the plastic was chewed on by squirrels) so went with Campagnolo there. And the brakes are now Mafac Racer. Otherwise somewhat similar to yours.

This replaced a '74 International that was damaged into a garage fire.

Just got a handle bar mounted water bottle holder, will install it next thing. I used to keep a bottle in the jersey pocket, but that'
s kind of a pain in the back. . .

Super comfy bike for 50 mile (and more) rides.

Serial A2154


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## slowride (Mar 11, 2021)

Hello Messenger390, thank you! I love what you have done with your bike to make it a practical , everyday bike but with many period pieces. You still have the Normandy Luxe hubs, jubilee RD , and TA pro “trois vis” crank , and that gorgeous saddle that are so much a part of its original charm. I really like those wolber rims and the fluted seat post- they go nicely! The mafac calipers are an improvement. Shifters are classic. mks pedals are high quality . did not know they make titanium spindle? Front rack looks really nice. where is it from?


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## messenger390 (Mar 13, 2021)

slowride said:


> Hello Messenger390, thank you! I love what you have done with your bike to make it a practical , everyday bike but with many period pieces. You still have the Normandy Luxe hubs, jubilee RD , and TA pro “trois vis” crank , and that gorgeous saddle that are so much a part of its original charm. I really like those wolber rims and the fluted seat post- they go nicely! The mafac calipers are an improvement. Shifters are classic. mks pedals are high quality . did not know they make titanium spindle? Front rack looks really nice. where is it from?



Thanks! It was a ton of fun to bring it back from the worn out state I found it in. . .

The teeny rack on the front brake was made by TA (same folks that made the cranks) especially for Mafac brakes. I was told it was for a tube and tool wrap but since I just carry that stuff under the saddle, I am still trying to find a new use for it . .flashlight? can of beans holder? extra pair of rolled up bike shorts? I am open to suggestions. . .

I am pretty sure the MKS pedals have titanium coloured bodies and definitely have steel axles (the magnet sticks to the axle) . They did say titanium in the catalogue I ordered from, but when I am now looking at the Mikashima web page, I think they meant to say titanium coloured pedal body.

You are lucky to have those original TA crank bolt dust covers! I was looking at these, but asking do I really have to have that? Or do I need the 23.35mm ones?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Specialitie...-Pro-5-Vis-etc/254138486617?campid=5335809022


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## slowride (Mar 14, 2021)

messenger390 said:


> Thanks! It was a ton of fun to bring it back from the worn out state I found it in. . .
> 
> The teeny rack on the front brake was made by TA (same folks that made the cranks) especially for Mafac brakes. I was told it was for a tube and tool wrap but since I just carry that stuff under the saddle, I am still trying to find a new use for it . .flashlight? can of beans holder? extra pair of rolled up bike shorts? I am open to suggestions. . .
> 
> ...



23mm is for TA and 23.35mm is Stronglight. I read someone was also making some plastic dust caps in Eastern Europe if you prefer to spend less.


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## messenger390 (Mar 14, 2021)

slowride said:


> 23mm is for TA and 23.35mm is Stronglight. I read someone was also making some plastic dust caps in Eastern Europe if you prefer to spend less.



Thanks slowride!


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## non-fixie (Mar 19, 2021)

messenger390 said:


> The teeny rack on the front brake was made by TA (same folks that made the cranks) especially for Mafac brakes. I was told it was for a tube and tool wrap but since I just carry that stuff under the saddle, I am still trying to find a new use for it . .flashlight? can of beans holder? extra pair of rolled up bike shorts? I am open to suggestions. . .




I like those small front racks. They look good, especially with fenders, and they are pretty good at keeping a handlebar bag off the front wheel or fender, as long as they don't have to support a lot of weight.

This a similar but slightly larger Dia Compe ENE rack, also mounted on the brake caliper, with a rather huge Ostrich F-702:


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## bulldog1935 (Mar 20, 2021)

You can do a lot with bar bag and front rack on a racy bike not built for a rear load. 
My International with Nitto M18 front rack, supported from drop-out lugs and brake bolt. 







The little TA brake-mount rack is just right for pinning the bottom of a narrow Carradice or Ostrich front bag, but you still need some kind decaleur to hang the top of the bag.


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## non-fixie (Mar 24, 2021)

bulldog1935 said:


> The little TA brake-mount rack is just right for pinning the bottom of a narrow Carradice or Ostrich front bag, but you still need some kind decaleur to hang the top of the bag.




That would be optimal, but by a stroke of luck my F-702 comes up almost flush with the handlebars, so I strapped the bag directly to them. The result is pretty stable; more so than I expected.


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## slowride (Apr 1, 2021)

HARPO said:


> Beautiful! What would one go for in that current condition?



Hi Fred,
Here’s a real world data point sold on “the bay” last month. All original components but needs complete refurbishment (tires, tubes, bearings replace/repacked, bar tape, clean,polishing, wax) for $559.99
Also note it was sold as local pick up only in St. Louis, Mo
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294036878289?campid=5335809022


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## HARPO (Apr 1, 2021)

@slowride  I had no idea they were at that price point! And that one was my size frame...


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