# Tensioning spokes ---  Hard Tire Safety



## frampton (Jul 6, 2020)

Is there a special tool or technique to tension the spokes on my  Lovell Diamond? The spokes don't have a nipple with two or four flat sides so a typical spoke wrench won't work. The spokes thread into the hub flange and the opposite end of the spoke has a head, and is held in place by a hole in the rim.  The spokes will freely rotate in the rim. Vice grips will damage the spokes and create stress risers that weaken the spoke. Any ideas?  THANKS.


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## frampton (Jul 6, 2020)

I just found a tool called a King Dick Spoke Grip.  Is that the ticket?


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## bikejunk (Jul 6, 2020)

yes just what I was going to suggest when I was reading your post those spokes look new has the wheel been restore?


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## frampton (Jul 6, 2020)

The rim has been painted and the spokes replaced.


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## bikebozo (Jul 6, 2020)

You can use a wire clamp , from a hardware store . Or check out some grounding lugs


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## bicyclerNY (Jul 7, 2020)

These are ads from 1890 for spoke grips sold for adjusting your bicycles spokes.


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## Andrew Gorman (Jul 7, 2020)

I use an old Starrett hand vise as a spoke grip and it works very well. Mine has a groove in the center of the jaws on the long axis so it (usually) doesn't leave a mark.  Here is the current version, but I don't think I'd pay the price:





						Starrett 86A Combination Hand Vise With Clamp, 1-1/2" Capacity: Pin Vises: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
					

Starrett 86A Combination Hand Vise With Clamp, 1-1/2" Capacity: Pin Vises: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement



					www.amazon.com


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Jul 7, 2020)

I have the same tool, but bought it used, on eBay for $150.00. Great tool for bicycles and jewelry making.


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## frampton (Jul 8, 2020)

Thanks for the recommendations. The pictures of the hand vise reminded me of a small vise I bought years ago. I found it,  gave it a shot of lube and gave it a try.  Works great. I will still look for a proper spoke grip, but this will get me back on the road.


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## mike cates (Sep 29, 2020)

I use two Vise Grip Sheet Metal locking pliers on direct pull (radial spoke pattern) spokes on high wheel and hard tire safety bicycles. Cheap versions of these can be found at Harbor Freight Tool stores.
Even if you have an original antique spoke grip, the problem is you are torquing the spoke from one end and the other end will usually stick in the rim from years of being seated in the spoke hole and you will break a spoke this way. Also the grip area puts a lot of pressure on a small length of the spoke and will actually gall and break the spoke if too much torque is applied. The original grips worked fine when the bike (threads and fits in holes) were new or you are working on a restored bicycle with new spokes but this isn't usually the case on these antique bicycles that need attention from years of rust in hub threads and in spoke holes.

Here is what I do when breaking down a rusty antique wheel or when assembling a wheel to true it and it has worked successfully for decades for me:

Wire brush or sand blast off rust near where the spoke threads into the hub and goes into the rim spoke hole.

Then put a drop of penetrating oil at the rim hole and on the hub where the spoke goes into them. Tap on the spoke with a small hammer or wiggle it around by hand a bit to get the penetrating oil to go into the hub that is threaded and into the rim spoke hole. Sometimes heating the hub or the rim with a propane torch prior to applying the penetrating oil will help suck the oil into the rim hole or into the threaded hub flange.

Next set the tension locking screw on the vise grip to tightly clamp on the spoke  and position one at each end of the spoke so one vise grip is at the hub end and the other vise grip at the rim end of the spoke. The reason for using these type of vise grips it that the big flat jaw plates will spread more grip over a longer area of the spoke and usually will not gall the spoke as long as you have the grip set to tightly grip the spoke. Another advantage is that the big flat jaw plates don't mark up nickle plated or polished stainless steel spokes.

Gently and simultaneously rotate the vise grips clamped on the spoke back and forth to break up any corrosion in the hub threads and in the rim spoke hole. As you work the spoke back and forth put another drop of the penetrating oil on the spoke ends. By turning the vise grips in unison, you will not create twisting on the length of the spoke as if you were gripping it from only one end and you get a better "feel" of the spoke being tensioned or broken loose.

You will have to un clamp and re clamp the vise grips as you tighten or loosen the spoke as you can only swing them so far when working between the spoke pattern and this is time consuming but worth it not to break radial spokes like these. Remember patience will pay off to get your spokes tensioned and wheels trued.

Mike Cates, CA.
(760) 473-6201
cates0321@hotmail.com


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## frampton (Oct 2, 2020)

Thanks for the advice.


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## pelletman (Oct 8, 2020)

If I have to deal with rusty spokes, I spray everything with good penetrating oil IE Torq CB, Kroil, Gibbs, Deep Creep NOT WD40 as far in advance as I can, I usually spray them down even if I don't plan on working on them for months or years or maybe ever, I put a broomstick on the floor and put the rim on it and wack the rim from the tire side with a rubber or other soft mallet.  I have a pair of small vise grips that I brazed brass into and then cut to protect the spokes from galling.  If they are really rusty sometimes I just use regular small vise grips.  You won't have that problem with new spokes though


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## mike cates (Oct 11, 2020)

Good advice.


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