# 1974 Schwinn Sports Tourer...just Picked It Up!



## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

Well, once in a while getting to Craigslist early pays off. This bike was less than 3 miles from my house and I couldn't be happier.
The gentleman I purchased it from used it from the early 80's to commute for 10 years back and forth to work. He figured in that time about 7,000 were placed on it in rain, sun or snow. He had bought the bike from the original owner, so now I'm only the third to have it. He put the fenders on it, but that's it. I told him that the original wheels should have been quick-release alloys, so apparently they were changed out before he got it.
He told me that the bike stayed out in the weather when ho got to work, hence the cracked saddle and faded paint. Still...great shape for that.

I have different wheels, etc. to use on it, and a complete tare down will be coming soon. I was a bit worried about the paint coming back to life so I applied a bit of polishing compound to it. Voila! Nice bright red shiny paint beneath the oxidized layer. This will be a fun project and I'm really looking forward to it.

The two other pics are Sports Tourer's that I'


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ve had for a while.


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

Nice find! Are you sure that's not a '73? I say because it looks like Sunset Orange and appears to have a '73 vintage stem and front derailleur. Of course parts may have been changed and It can be hard to tell Sunset Orange from Opaque Red in pictures.


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

Metacortex said:


> Nice find! Are you sure that's not a '73? I say because it looks like Sunset Orange and appears to have a '73 vintage stem and front derailleur. Of course parts may have been changed and It can be hard to tell Sunset Orange from Opaque Red in pictures.




It's red alright. It does look like orange in the photos I took, but because of the oxidized paint it's showing a different tone.
I like the fact that it has the original (though optional back then) Schwinn generator for the headlight and tail light, along with the Barcom shifters.


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

A few more photos as found...
Also, he told me that its been hanging in his garage for the past 20 years untouched.


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 6, 2016)

They're here


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## Schwinn499 (Jun 6, 2016)

Looks like a '73 Sunset Orange to me but im no expert...


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## Schwinn499 (Jun 6, 2016)

'74 would have the barrel adjusters on the brake levers....no?


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

Schwinn499 said:


> '74 would have the barrel adjusters on the brake levers....no?




I noticed that when I was originally looking at it. It should have had that along with the gold levers on it for easy access to the cables. These look like the brake levers from a Varsity. I think I have the correct ones in one of  my stashes, along with the correct ATOM pedals.
And yes, the bike is RED to those still not sure. I have an orange one (shown above). Once all the paint has been cleaned up I'll show new photos. The area I used a polishing compound on revealed nice, shiny, red paint.


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

Schwinn499 said:


> '74 would have the barrel adjusters on the brake levers....no?




Yes that's another reason I was asking. A '74 would have come with Dia-Compe levers with adjusters, as well as a girder S stem and GT-260 FD. But then a lot of parts seem to have been changed on this bike, which is understandable since it was ridden so much. For example it looks like the GT-300 RD may have been replaced in '76 or later since it has the oval (vs round) cage holes and a conical steel (vs acorn alloy) cable nut. If so it may have a Shimano date code on the inside of the cage like this one from a '76 Superior, where AG = 1976, July:


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

The gentleman I purchased it from said that only tires, and tubes were replaced over the years, nothing mechanical (derailleurs, etc.). Probably brake pads as well. It has the LE TOUR rear derailleur that was original to the bike. Some had the Campy model.
I do know that Opaque Red was only offered in 1974, so I don't know what happened between the original purchase new and his buying it. Complete mystery.
Thankfully the Schwinn Approved Barcons are there, so I know that was an option you don't see to often.


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

From the 1974 Catalog...


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

I'd ask about the serial number except we all know the serial number is relatively useless at dating these as it can only show when the headtube was stamped, before it even became a frame. I have an Opaque Red '74 Sports Tourer and yet it has a Dec. 72 serial. On the other hand besides one-year only paint colors (like Opaque Red) the fork is a much more accurate dating tool, for example see the 4E (1974, May) date code on this Opaque Red '74 Sports Tourer fork (note also that it was made by Ishiwata for Schwinn





Check that GT-300 derailleur for a code, If the handlebars are original they may also have a date code like this June '74 example:


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

HARPO said:


> From the 1974 Catalog...




The 04 200 Super Sport generator set was introduced in 1972:


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

*Metacortex.*..thanks for all your info! You're a walking catalog!! As I begin to take the bike apart I'll look for anything else abnormal. Those brake levers really have me perplexed though (and the cables appear original). 
The extra money (not much at the time...maybe $10) was spent on the Bar End Shifters that were a Paramount option, as well as the lighting system. Good choices none the less, but again the Varsity pedals are on there which don't belong. Crazy......


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

ORANGE...it's ORANGE!! I just tried doing more polishing to the faded paint and it isn't red. Well, this changes things quite a bit as far a dating the bike!!!


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

OK now we're getting somewhere!  That means the FD, stem and brake levers should be original.


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

Metacortex said:


> OK now we're getting somewhere!  That means the FD, stem and brake levers should be original.




And I guess it's a 1973 model, the only year that they offered Sunset orange. 1971 was Kool orange. BTW...one lazy brake lever is missing. I have a full brake set NOS I bought quite a few years ago, so maybe I'll use them or see if I have a used set.


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

Sunset Orange was indeed a '73 only color so that confirms it as a '73 model. According to the front "Schwinn Approved" derailleur, if it is original (and I now believe it is) that would make this an early to mid-'73 bike, as sometime in mid-'73 they changed to the GT-260 FD.

The brake lever mounted barrel adjusters were introduced in '74, a '73 model could have had either Weinmann (like yours) or Dia-Compe levers with the gold tabs, but neither would have adjusters that year. Both would have had gold anodized pull-up bolt studs (sometimes called "dots"). I did see that one of the extension levers was missing, and it looks like they replaced the orange pull-up bolt stud (with provisions for mounting the extension lever) to what looks like a plain black one? Here are some original orange studs with extension lever threading:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=131327993557
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=351203281034








Note that these two examples are slightly different, at some point Schwinn changed from one design to the other, and the extension levers changed as well (for a tighter less wobbly fit). I'll have to check my records as to exactly when that change took place, but in the mean time see which type you have on the other lever.


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

I'll have to go through my Schwinn Stashes and see what I have saved over the years. I should have what I need.

Interesting project none the less, and now I'll have 3 Sports Tourer's...though I don't know how long I'll keep this one after completing it. Frame is to small for me, but maybe I'll just add it to the collection.


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

Metacortex said:


> Note that these two examples are slightly different, at some point Schwinn changed from one design to the other, and the extension levers changed as well (for a tighter less wobbly fit). I'll have to check my records as to exactly when that change took place,..




OK found it. Service Bulletin #33 dated March '73, the studs and nylon bushings changed to eliminate play, but the levers remained the same. The change was the step machined in the stud along with a thicker nylon bushing. The bulletin stated "Some of these new levers are being used at present and will be used on all models as the old ones are zeroed out." So I suppose a very early '73 model may have the straight (non-step machined) stud, but most '73 and all later should have the stepped type stud.


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## HARPO (Jun 6, 2016)

Thanks!


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## Metacortex (Jun 6, 2016)

HARPO said:


> Interesting project none the less, and now I'll have 3 Sports Tourer's...though I don't know how long I'll keep this one after completing it. Frame is to small for me, but maybe I'll just add it to the collection.




Don't take this the wrong way but me personally I'd part that one out. It is a great find but for me it is just missing too many parts to be cost effective to restore, plus you have two other nicer ones that fit. The one thing I'd keep though is that *sweet* TA crankset! While I've grown to like the Nervar, I think the Schwinn version of the TA crankset as used on the Sports Tourer is the most beautiful there is. I've never seen a TA on a '75 model (those were Nervar only), but for '74 and earlier they came with either TA or Nervar interchangeably. In other words you could mount that TA crankset on your other '73 and it would be perfectly correct.


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 7, 2016)

actually, the Schwinn versions of Nervar and TA both used ersatz spacer rings in place of spacer washers to intentionally add weight to the crank and meet Schwinn minimum weight specs for the component.  (ok, they can also use a spindle narrower by the distance from the ersatz ring to the outer ring, but that's how many mm?)
helluva mind set
counting down the stack, chain guard, spacer, outer ring, spacer, ersatz ring, spacer, inner ring, 3 sets of fasteners on 3 different bolt circles - that's a lot of parts for a double crank




so in all reality, it's the least intelligent version of the 50.5mm bolt circle cranks (includes Nervar, TA, Stronglight, Zeus)
This is a half-step triple that's narrow enough to use a road double front derailleur - form should follow function











here's the most complete history site for TA
http://www.blackbirdsf.org/ta/





BTW, shouldn't this thread be on the Schwinn Lightweight page?
It seems to be like a virus or maybe menstrual cycle - whenever this forum page gets a rash of activity, it then breaks out in Schwinn


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## Metacortex (Jun 7, 2016)

Schwinn first introduced a ramp or "sloping annular surface" between the inner and outer chainrings as a shifting aid in 1968 when it introduced the patented Schwinn double plateau crankset that was so iconic to the brand. You can see the ramp as item 26 in the patent drawings:





In the patent it is described as: _"...the peripheral portion of the blank defining the sprocket teeth is further offset outwardly to provide a curved or sloping annular surface 26 adapted to function as a guide means for the chain with which the sprocket assembly is used to assure smooth transfer movements of the chain into and out of engagement with the teeth of the sprockets..."_ 

When Schwinn was designing the Sports Tourer they intended to produce a bike with wide-range gearing that was described by Schwinn as_"...the broadest available on any production bicycle."_ To accomplish this they used a special 14-34T freewheel and a 36-54T crankset. Schwinn announced these cranksets to dealers in a March 1971 service bulletin where you can see the inner chain guard (ramp) in-between the inner and outer chainrings:





The ramp was obviously an important part of Schwinn's patented crankset design. I believe that Schwinn contracted with TA and Nervar to add the inner guard ramp as a shifting aid exactly like that found in its patented double plateau crankset. And it was a good idea as in practice I find they work very well, even with the extra wide range gearing in the '71 Sports Tourer models. Note that in late '71 Schwinn changed the Sports Tourer crankset from 36-54T to 40-54T and the new versions also had correspondingly larger ramps to match the 40T inner rings. And yeah, these cranksets have a *lot* of parts:


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 7, 2016)

or it could be Schwinn wanted a patent for business purposes

good enough design for Rene Herse




My old Raleigh is high in my rotation because I shift mostly up front for the half-steps, and it shifts wonderfully.  It gets at least 30 mi/wk

Admin, can we get this thread moved where it belongs?






In 1962 SunTour patented the slant parallelogram rear derailleur.
No one could copy it until 1980.  Every rear derailleur made today copies it.

Schwinn's patent "improving" on a 30-year crank design expired in 1987.  No one is copying it today (not even Schwinn), but the 30-year older design is still being copied.

Dale, I agree it's great research.  I don't think it's an argument for Schwinn superior design, nor is there any good reason it keeps topping on this forum page rather than on the Schwinn Lightweight forum page.

I've definitely never had a chainsuck occur on my TA Cyclotouriste.  Of course the modern shifting aid and way they deal with preventing chainsuck in skinny 10- and 11-speed chains (and soon 12-) is by adding pins around the chainring.


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## Dale Alan (Jun 7, 2016)

Great info Metacortex,thanks for sharing . Your research is much appeciated.


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## Schwinn499 (Jun 7, 2016)




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## HARPO (Jun 7, 2016)

I started the tear down this morning...and its been kicking my butt the entire day. After _finally_ getting the cranks off, I went to remove the seat post. It's in there but good. I've tried drowning it in WD-40 (not that anything is getting through as it's so wedged) and tapping the sides of the post with a hammer. If this doesn't eventually work, I'll have to do my first cut off. And of course the pedals have really grown attached to the crank arms. But I really do want to save the frame.
I'm in agreement with METACORTEX about parting it out, though I'll see how it all ends up. I have the parts here to finish it, including almost new brake levers with the gold clips. I hate giving up so early in the game.


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## Schwinn499 (Jun 7, 2016)

If I recall correctly, Schwinn made many design improvements to existing products (Schwinn Approved) and allowed the manufacturer to apply these improvements in their own product lines.


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 7, 2016)

HARPO said:


> I started the tear down this morning...and its been kicking my butt the entire day. After _finally_ getting the cranks off, I went to remove the seat post. It's in there but good. I've tried drowning it in WD-40 (not that anything is getting through as it's so wedged) and tapping the sides of the post with a hammer. If this doesn't eventually work, I'll have to do my first cut off. And of course the pedals have really grown attached to the crank arms. But I really do want to save the frame.
> I'm in agreement with METACORTEX about parting it out, though I'll see how it all ends up. I have the parts here to finish it, including almost new brake levers with the gold clips. I hate giving up so early in the game.



Boeshield does better at getting a joint like that apart than WD40.  Soak and give it a week.


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## Metacortex (Jun 7, 2016)

Schwinn499 said:


> If I recall correctly, Schwinn made many design improvements to existing products (Schwinn Approved) and allowed the manufacturer to apply these improvements in their own product lines.




I know that was true with Huret and I believe Maillard and Shimano as well.


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 7, 2016)

if you were having that problem on a normal seat lug, you can also take out the tightening bolt and spread the lug with the largest screwdriver you have around.
The split in the back of the lug is also a place to introduce boeshield to penetrate.  



 
but don't think it works the same way on that post clamp


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## HARPO (Jun 7, 2016)

I've put the WD-40 down the split, of course, but without any high expectations.
And speaking of seat tubes and cranksets, how do you like the ones on my Motobecane Le Champion?


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 7, 2016)

I love Strada cranks, check the thread below on my daughter's Team Fuji.  It has the 144 bcd Sugino with ISO tapers.


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## HARPO (Jun 8, 2016)

bulldog1935 said:


> I love Strada cranks, check the thread below on my daughter's Team Fuji.  It has the 144 bcd Sugino with ISO tapers.




Great job! Looks like a factory job that Fuji should have done. I still kick myself for passing one up a couple of years ago on Craigslist. It was my size, but I had promised my wife to sell off some bikes (I'm down to 30 right now, which includes Pre-War). Would have been cool to have along with my 1998 Team Fuji.


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## HARPO (Jun 8, 2016)

Well, looks like it's time to throw in the towel! I figured on some issues, but maybe I'm just past doing this much work on something like this.

Seat post is stuck...pedals are stuck to the cranks...both derailleurs are toast...brake levers are not good and missing a lever. So...I have really nice replacements for them all, but it would be for a frame my size in excellent condition. Not for this frame set. 
I'll keep the Barcons, stem, handlebars and the saddle (_which I'll just soften as much as possible_) and put that on a bike as a display piece. Next time I'll look closer, so this one is on me.


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## Metacortex (Jun 8, 2016)

To remove stuck pedals I use a piece of wood to support the end of the crank against the floor, set a wrench on the flats (try to align it so that removal will be a downward motion), then HIT the end of the wrench with a hammer to remove. Just like an automotive air impact wrench will remove bolts that plain twisting would snap, I've found that using impact force (a hammer) is far superior to a pipe extender that simply pulls harder on the wrench. So far no pedal I've encountered has ever been able to resist the force of the hammer.


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## HARPO (Jun 9, 2016)

Metacortex said:


> To remove stuck pedals I use a piece of wood to support the end of the crank against the floor, set a wrench on the flats (try to align it so that removal will be a downward motion), then HIT the end of the wrench with a hammer to remove. Just like an automotive air impact wrench will remove bolts that plain twisting would snap, I've found that using impact force (a hammer) is far superior to a pipe extender that simply pulls harder on the wrench. So far no pedal I've encountered has ever been able to resist the force of the hammer.




Yup...tried that also. Remember, the owner said it sat outside for years (hence the seat post issue). Pedals & attached cranks are sitting in WD-40. Time will tell...


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## Eric Amlie (Jun 9, 2016)

WD-40 isn't a very good penetrating oil. I don't want to start a war on this(seen this argument many times in the past), but I use Kroil and find it to work pretty well.


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## Dale Alan (Jun 10, 2016)

Eric Amlie said:


> WD-40 isn't a very good penetrating oil. I don't want to start a war on this(seen this argument many times in the past), but I use Kroil and find it to work pretty well.



I agree ,Kroil is much more effective as a penetrating oil .WD40 is handy for many things,I like it a a cleaner/degreaser.


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## bulldog1935 (Jun 10, 2016)

I've used Boeshield for years on other people's 100-y-o fishing reels, valued up to $4000.  It reduces aluminum clays and will part the joint.  
Kroll will likely work faster, but WD40 does not do the job


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## HARPO (Jun 21, 2016)

Pedals are still stuck to the cranks, and seat post is in there for good. So...I'm either going to turn it into a single speed for myself... (I tossed the front and rear derailleurs along with the wheels) or replace the derailleurs with ones I have and wheels I have...or part it out entirely. Decisions, decisions...


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## schwinnbikebobb (Jun 21, 2016)

Were the derailleurs and wheels that bad?  They don't look bad in the pics, I could use those.   I concur with the others that Kroil is the best.  Having said that I had to just put a seat post in the vise and use the frame for leverage to twist it out.  still was a fight and of course ruined the post but dammit I got it out!!!

Bob


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## HARPO (Jun 21, 2016)

schwinnbikebobb said:


> Were the derailleurs and wheels that bad? They don't look bad in the pics,




The derailleurs were very badly scraped, gouged and rusted. I tossed them, along with the worn out, incorrect wheels. This is why sometimes photos can be very deceiving. The Bar Com shifters are fine, so either I'll use them, keep them for another project or sell them. Again...decisions, decisions.

Glad you got the seat post out! I'd be very happy destroying mine to remove it!!


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