# Craigslist Find



## Sigh1961

Ran across this ad on craigslist.  It is too far away for me to go and fetch, or I would snap it up. It is a late 70's one owner Collegiate 5 speed that looks like it is in great condition. Location is close to St. Louis.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/5706457570.html


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## Schwinn499

I would hold out for the previous years two tone seat model...


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## parkrndl

nice, I'd grab that... so '71 is the last year for the two-tone seat? I have a girls' frame '68 in that same brown with a two-tone seat, but the seat seems to have faded to a greenish color (unless it's just that at some point someone swapped on a seat off a green bike)...


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## Schwinn499

The seats for the brown ones look an olive green color, not quire brown...i think that last year for the two tone seat on the collegiate was 68...


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## momo608

Sigh1961 said:


> Ran across this ad on craigslist.  It is too far away for me to go and fetch, or I would snap it up. It is a late 70's one owner Collegiate 5 speed that looks like it is in great condition. Location is close to St. Louis.
> 
> http://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/5706457570.html



You can simply copy and paste a photo off wherever, thusly.


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## Sigh1961

momo608 said:


> You can simply copy and paste a photo off wherever, thusly.



Thanks for the tip.  The guy is offering to meet me halfway for another $50.  What do you guys think? Is it worth it?


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## Metacortex

It is well worth $50. If you do end up getting it, by the looks of the angle of the GT-100 derailleur you will want to pay attention to this topic: http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/gt100-adjustment.94712/


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## Sigh1961

Metacortex said:


> It is well worth $50. If you do end up getting it, by the looks of the angle of the GT-100 derailleur you will want to pay attention to this topic: http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/gt100-adjustment.94712/



He wants $100 for the bike, and $50 to meet me halfway to deliver it. $150 total plus my gas to drive 180 miles.


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## Metacortex

OK that's really not all that bad considering it looks to be all original and with good paint, chrome and decals. If you like the bike I'd say go for it. Personally I'd try to get $25 off ($125 total), but I wouldn't consider that a deal breaker.


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## Freqman1

I'd say that's about top dollar--at least where I'm at. If you are buying it to keep and ride maybe not a bad deal. If you are buying to flip I ain't see'n much meat on the bone. V/r Shawn


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## SirMike1983

I agree with Shawn-- I think that's at the top end, even for a nice bike. But if the bike fits you, and it's really what you want, then do it. I don't think the price is unreasonable on the face of it, but it is at the top end for that bike.


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## schwinnderella

Sigh1961 said:


> He wants $100 for the bike, and $50 to meet me halfway to deliver it. $150 total plus my gas to drive 180 miles.



Where are you in central Illinois? Do you ever get to the chicago area?


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## Sigh1961

schwinnderella said:


> Where are you in central Illinois? Do you ever get to the chicago area?



I'm in Galesburg.  We get to Chicago 3-4 times a year.  We have friends in the city, as well as some that live in Oak Forest.  We have talked about going up and riding the CalSag Trail around Lake Katherine.


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## Sigh1961

I decided to pass on it.  I like the 75 Speedster I have now, but want to get something that is a little easier to pedal up those hills.  I found an old Suburban 5 speed for $25. The real wheel and derailer look ok.  Hoping I can convert my Speedster to a 5 speed with parts off the Suburban.


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## Jeff54

Sigh1961 said:


> I decided to pass on it.  I like the 75 Speedster I have now, but want to get something that is a little easier to pedal up those hills.  I found an old Suburban 5 speed for $25. The real wheel and derailer look ok.  Hoping I can convert my Speedster to a 5 speed with parts off the Suburban.




Although I've always been an admirer of Schwinn bikes since a young kid. By the mid 70's after riding Schwinn 10 speeds for years too, I came to my senses as Schwinn products got made cheaper and failed to meet my desires for better distance, convenience and lighter, faster products. Today, I wouldn't touch a Schwinn lightweight with a few exceptions, Paramount or similar 60's super sports etc. Not a chance in hell a collagegate for the money because for what you're looking for, " little easier to pedal up those hills"

I picked this race red baby up for 35 bucks, A whole 19 pounds, as FAST as a bullet!  and below it, not as fast, but easy riding for a mere $55. Plus I could flip both of them  easy too. the race red prob $200 bucks and the next, an easy 600-700. AND!, I'm NOT flipping these two bikes, I'm loving em every single day, whenever I'm on em.

I.E. get your self an pre 1986 TREK for the best deal you can find and or less than that heavy butt clunker,  $150, while you can. A little patience and searching C/L, you'll find em.

And you'll get up those hills quick, easy, plus have a bike well worth $$ it's weight. [wink]

1985 Trek 460:






1982 Trek 728:





I'm not saying you'll get em as cheap as I did, but for your $150, you'll do the job.


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> I decided to pass on it.  I like the 75 Speedster I have now, but want to get something that is a little easier to pedal up those hills.  I found an old Suburban 5 speed for $25. The real wheel and derailer look ok.  Hoping I can convert my Speedster to a 5 speed with parts off the Suburban.



Here, ill actually post something useful.

That girls suburban was a score and looks pretty nice. Id use it as practice and clean up and flip it to help fund your actual five speed bike. If im not mistaken I think the drop out spacing for a 5 speed hub and a 3 speed hub are different and may cause you some headache when trying to convert that 3 speed over. You also wont have any accommodations for cable routing for the shifer cables on your 3 speed frame. You would be better off finding a complete 5 speed and cleaning that up, as I think a conversion is more work and headache than your assuming it is. Then you can keep or sell your 3 speed if you wish, if your happy with your new bike. That, or you can buy some ugly drab 80s Trek bike with no character  and be done with it apparently[emoji57]


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## Sigh1961

Schwinn499 said:


> Here, ill actually post something useful.
> 
> That girls suburban was a score and looks pretty nice. i.d. use it as practice and clean up and flip it to help fund your actual five speed bike. If im not mistaken I think the drop out spacing for a 5 speed hub and a 3 speed hub are different and may cause you some headache when trying to convert that 3 speed over. You also wont have any accommodations for cable routing for the shifer cables on your 3 speed frame. You would be better off finding a complete 5 speed and cleaning that up, as I think a conversion is more work and headache than your assuming it is. Then you can keep or sell your 3 speed if you wish, if your happy with your new bike. That, or you can buy some ugly drab 80s Trek bike with no character  and be done with it apparently[emoji57]




You are probably right about that.  I don't have the Suburban in hand yet, that is the craigslist photo.  Going to go pick it up Saturday.  If it is as good as it looks, I could probably just clean and service it and flip it for a $125 and make some money to put towards a nice Collegiate 5 speed.  You don't want to sell that gold one, do you?  And I could also sell the Speedster for $150-$200 dollars as well.  The problem is that I really love my speedster, love the color, and the paint is almost perfect, except for one small spot on the chain guard.  I spent about 4 hours last week polishing all of the chrome, and it just looks sweet.  My fat ass is just too old to get up any big hills with that 3 speed.  No law says I can't have two bikes, right? keep the 3 speed for short cruises, and ride the 5 speed for everything else.


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## Schwinn499

Sigh1961 said:


> You are probably right about that.  I don't have the Suburban in hand yet, that is the craigslist photo.  Going to go pick it up Saturday.  If it is as good as it looks, I could probably just clean and service it and flip it for a $125 and make some money to put towards a nice Collegiate 5 speed.  You don't want to sell that gold one, do you?  And I could also sell the Speedster for $150-$200 dollars as well.  The problem is that I really love my speedster, love the color, and the paint is almost perfect, except for one small spot on the chain guard.  I spent about 4 hours last week polishing all of the chrome, and it just looks sweet.  My fat ass is just too old to get up any big hills with that 3 speed.  No law says I can't have two bikes, right? keep the 3 speed for short cruises, and ride the 5 speed for everything else.




I actually sold that Coppertone (gold) one last year for $350 locally. Did you consider a larger rear cog on your Speedster as I mentioned in your previous post? Definitely no laws around here about having two, five, or twenty-five bikes for that matter. Good luck on your hunt and happy cycling.


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## momo608

Jeff54 said:


> Although I've always been an admirer of Schwinn bikes since a young kid. By the mid 70's after riding Schwinn 10 speeds for years too, I came to my senses as Schwinn products got made cheaper and failed to meet my desires for better distance, convenience and lighter, faster products. Today, I wouldn't touch a Schwinn lightweight with a few exceptions, Paramount or similar 60's super sports etc. Not a chance in hell a collagegate for the money because for what you're looking for, " little easier to pedal up those hills"
> 
> I picked this race red baby up for 35 bucks, A whole 19 pounds, as FAST as a bullet!  and below it, not as fast, but easy riding for a mere $55. Plus I could flip both of them  easy too. the race red prob $200 bucks and the next, an easy 600-700. AND!, I'm NOT flipping these two bikes, I'm loving em every single day, whenever I'm on em.
> 
> I.E. get your self an pre 1986 TREK for the best deal you can find and or less than that heavy butt clunker,  $150, while you can. A little patience and searching C/L, you'll find em.
> 
> And you'll get up those hills quick, easy, plus have a bike well worth $$ it's weight. [wink]
> 
> 1985 Trek 460:
> 
> View attachment 348774
> 
> 
> 1982 Trek 728:
> 
> View attachment 348775
> 
> I'm not saying you'll get em as cheap as I did, but for your $150, you'll do the job.



Booo hissss


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## Jeff54

momo608 said:


> Booo hissss




{grin} but no worries, I don't race em just ride. Trek's integrated seat post, specifically: SR's *P5E* Laprade Type. Forged Alloy. mount right up to the rails on Chinese made,  'lightweight or cheap',  '_comfort_' seats:

[wink]


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## Dale Alan

I had a hard time with hills with my 3-speeds .Like Schwinn499 mentioned earlier I changed to a bigger rear cog,hills were much more tolerable after that .You can also put a smaller(Girls) chainring on,hills will be a non-issue if you do.


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## SirMike1983

Absolutely- change that rear cog. The standard 18 on a Sturmey 3 speed hub was way too high for most places in the US. My notes on Sturmey gear ratios:

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_17.html

My suggestion for a dedicated hill climber 3 speed: 2:1 ratio on the teeth or very close to that (I like 48-24 and 46-22).


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## Schwinn499

Dale Alan said:


> I had a hard time with hills with my 3-speeds .Like Schwinn499 mentioned earlier I changed to a bigger rear cog,hills were much more tolerable after that .You can also put a smaller(Girls) chainring on,hills will be a non-issue if you do.



Even better! Good thinking changing the ring up front too. The 3rd gear on a SA 3 speed is an overdrive, typically unecessary, gear that baby down!


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## Dale Alan

This is in Eldred Illinois,not sure if that is near you . Facebook ad. 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/370...548888421952698/?sale_post_id=548888421952698


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## Sigh1961

Dale Alan said:


> This is in Eldred Illinois,not sure if that is near you . Facebook ad.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/370077396500469/permalink/548888421952698/?sale_post_id=548888421952698



https://www.facebook.com/groups/370...548888421952698/?sale_post_id=548888421952698




Still a little far for me.  It would be a three hour drive each way


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## Sigh1961

Jeff54 said:


> Although I've always been an admirer of Schwinn bikes since a young kid. By the mid 70's after riding Schwinn 10 speeds for years too, I came to my senses as Schwinn products got made cheaper and failed to meet my desires for better distance, convenience and lighter, faster products. Today, I wouldn't touch a Schwinn lightweight with a few exceptions, Paramount or similar 60's super sports etc. Not a chance in hell a collagegate for the money because for what you're looking for, " little easier to pedal up those hills"
> 
> I picked this race red baby up for 35 bucks, A whole 19 pounds, as FAST as a bullet!  and below it, not as fast, but easy riding for a mere $55. Plus I could flip both of them  easy too. the race red prob $200 bucks and the next, an easy 600-700. AND!, I'm NOT flipping these two bikes, I'm loving em every single day, whenever I'm on em.
> 
> I.E. get your self an pre 1986 TREK for the best deal you can find and or less than that heavy butt clunker,  $150, while you can. A little patience and searching C/L, you'll find em.
> 
> And you'll get up those hills quick, easy, plus have a bike well worth $$ it's weight. [wink]
> 
> I'm not saying you'll get em as cheap as I did, but for your $150, you'll do the job.




Well, the Trek's aren't for me. Nothing against them, buy I am a Schwinn man.  Plus, I prefer the cruiser upright over the 10 speed hunched over style. I'm too old and fat to ride very far like that.


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## Jeff54

Sigh1961 said:


> Well, the Trek's aren't for me. Nothing against them, buy I am a Schwinn man.  Plus, I prefer the cruiser upright over the 10 speed hunched over style. I'm too old and fat to ride very far like that.





I'm down with that Sigh: " 10 speed hunched over style" I've never figured out why, unless your a racer, anybody is dumb enough to mess their back up or hunch down as most are only pleasure, exercising  or used as transportation, riders. Back in the day when I road miles and miles, or generally 30 mile round trips to Huntington beach on my Varsity, I wasn't down with that. Even in the late 70's when I could afford a nice real lightweight Peugeot, I wasn't down with that.

Funny thing happened a day before my graduating H.S. I'd taken night classes so only had 3 class a day plus P.E. But that was a make up P.E. class cause I'd cut my freshman class, actually got board because I elected tennis, and they gave me a racket, few balls, then told me to play by myself for 3 stupid dam  months until tennis season began. after two I bailed because nobody was mentoring or monitoring  me, nobody missed me, and hitting stupid A wall for 2 months was dumb.  .{Grin] Anyway, in 10th I was on track, too slow to run against the big guys, to small etc. but good enough for pole vaulting. regardless, I was a small fry until 1-1/2 years after H.S.

1 day before grad, coach needed me to prove I could run a mile. in 6-7 minutes or something. California requirement or some spit. So, I ran, when done Coach was shaking his stop watch, slapped it a few times. It was a 4 minute mile! He said his stop-watch might be broke or something to that effect. Especially he knew me in 9th, 10th and 11th grade. I couldn't compete against most my peers, plus was a year younger as I began at 4 years old. So, he's slapping his watch, and I told him that if he liked I'd run again. Understanding it was not important to me, 4, hell I could care less if it was fricken 10 minutes to do it. But, I wasn't exhausted hadn't even broke a sweat. He took a look at that, then toward my bike and said no, never mind, and I saw the look as if, 'to dam bad I'm graduating tomorrow'. {grin}  Because, after all those years of struggling, he knew all to well, drowning in water polo, etc.  to keep up with my peers, at that run, I'd unofficially beat 90% of em.

I never realized what I did for many, many years and wondered myself, but reminded with Coach's look at my, 'no sweat, and not in the least exhausted, then at my ten speed. That was it! I'd been riding it everywhere all year long, school was 5 miles, 10 round, and work was 10 more, night school was 8, 16 round. , plus weekend trips to H.B. and everywhere you can imagine. I had  unintently gained so much endurance, I'd no clue why coach was slapping that watch, why I offered to run the mile again, 'no sweat' until years later.

As a kid, riding 10 speeds, hunched down was a pain in the back it wasn't a week with my first Varsity,  and I was NOT down with that but up! Not to leave out, it looked 'cool' too.

This is a photo on the net but, it's how I always road. Never was a racer, never tried, couldn't care less about it, wouldn't bother as, while I rode distance, hills etc, I was a pleasure rider, or out of need for transportation, only.

When they're up, it's super easy to hit brakes, can use brake handles if you like to steer. I always ride with no hands so, when stopping just fall forward, and you'll STOP Fast!.. whenever I was gliding through traffic like an complete careless idiot,  just the mere thought of how careless I was, scares the crap out of me now! However, I'd always have my hands steering with the brake handles, ready to stop NOW. dumb, careless but super quick and responsive!

for longer rides or up hills handlebars are forward enough to not need a heavy lean, of if need for lean on hard hill, rather while moving fast, , the flat next to stem is there.. Otherwise, with the high curve up it's easier, closer to use to help pull your self up the hill. . I.E. there's several options when your bars are here. . and anybody, in my view,
who is down with that BS race style and not a racer? is dumb or delusional and uncomfortable too. . Those photos of my bikes with em down? That's just for show because they're up like this one.

Albeit, to do it, just loosen and turn em up , if the brake cables and or, shifting cables are long enough to get there. Most will just turn right up but some will need longer cables to get there. This bike, this photo, I found on the net, is setting perfectly in the sweet spot. [wink] Or that is, sweet without adjusting the brake handles. Because you can also adjust the brake handles to the center of curve, while also correcting the bars completely up-side-down, level, and get them even closer to you, for more comfort. Regardless, in this photo, where the curve is, , is perfect for climbing hills, pulling the bars to gain speed etc. Unless, you're endeavoring to be a racer on em.


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## Schwinn499

A properly fit and adjusted bike with drop bars is just as comfortable to ride as any other bike. In fact, your back is less supported riding a bike with upright bars because your spine and rear end are taking all the impact vertically, compressing your spine. Shifting your weight forward shares the load between your upper and lower body. It takes me a good 10 rides or so to finally get a bike exactly where I want it. Once youve found that sweet spot, it's like the bike and you become one.


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## Eric Amlie

^^^Agree with everything Schwinn499 said above, plus I would add that drop bars give you the option of a number of different hand positions so that as your hands start to fatigue in one position, you can switch to another. If I'm riding for any distance, a too upright position can be pretty fatiguing as I can't seem to get much power on the pedals from that position. It makes me work harder for the same result. Upright bars can be ok if the rest of the cockpit setup allows you to bend forward at the waist to some degree, but you're generally still restricted to one position for your hands.
At 64 years old I still find a properly sized and set up bike with drop bars and downtube shifters to be quite comfortable.


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## Schwinn499

Eric Amlie said:


> ^^^Agree with everything Schwinn499 said above, plus I would add that drop bars give you the option of a number of different hand positions so that as your hands start to fatigue in one position, you can switch to another. If I'm riding for any distance, a too upright position can be pretty fatiguing as I can't seem to get much power on the pedals from that position. It makes me work harder for the same result. Upright bars can be ok if the rest of the cockpit setup allows you to bend forward at the waist to some degree, but you're generally still restricted to one position for your hands.
> At 64 years old I still find a properly sized and set up bike with drop bars and downtube shifters to be quite comfortable.



Exactly! Good solid information, from experience. Sans the life story.


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## Dale Alan

I bet these guys wish their bars were flipped up like suggested.


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