# Schwinn DX Newbie



## Venom5sc (Jul 30, 2017)

Hello,

First of all, thank you for all of you that contribute to this site.  I have been learning a lot from everyone.

I have been very fascinated with pre-war anything and Schwinn straight bars for a couple years.  So... I finally bit the bullet and picked up a very worn out looking Admiral Schwinn straight bar last year.  The rims were mis-matched and junk, it was covered in rust and didn't look to be anything special so I wasn't to worried about ruining it if I decided to paint it.




 

But after some elbow grease... I found a good amount of paint and really fell in love with the look of it so I kept cleaning.



 



It got to the point where I had to stop cleaning the back half of the bike because it was in better condition than the front and wasn't going to match.  My favorite bicycle shop (where we go for all of our mountain bike racing needs) was able to get a new wheel set and a laser cut skip tooth rear sprocket to get me rolling.  They were also nice enough and allowed me to raid their stash of skip tooth chain.  I didn't want to put a brand new seat and grips on it so I was able to re-purpose a used fire hose.



 

 



I really didn't care to know what the year was until I found another frame and rescued it from being lawn art.  Unfortunately the paint on the second one is too far gone but I am realizing a number of differences even though both serial numbers start with B.



 


 
The finished bike is serial number B60652
- straight straight bar
- Admiral Schwinn brass head badge
- frame is braze welded
- built in kick stand
- feather chain guard with no flat spot for a model designation
- handlebars flair out

The second frame is serial number B39980
- red with white pin stripes (makes me think it has to be a Spitfire)
- slightly curved straight bar
- head badge has been removed
- removable kickstand
- welded frame (no brazing)
- handle bars come straight back

Both have the heart style skiptooth sprocket.  Neither have the adjustment screws for rear axle adjustment (post-war).  If anyone has any input on the years and models I would really appreciate it.  If not, its just curiosity.  When I realized one frame was welded and the other brazed, that was the trigger to ask the questions.  

Thank you very much for your help in advance!

- Jason


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## Freqman1 (Jul 31, 2017)

I believe both bikes built in Mar '52. First bike likely a Hornet other likely a Leader (DX). Check cat images here http://schwinncruisers.com/catalogs/1952.html V/r Shawn


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## Venom5sc (Jul 31, 2017)

Thank you Sir!


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## jimbo53 (Aug 2, 2017)

Nice lookin' bikes! I like 'em crusty. These make GREAT riders!


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## juanitasmith13 (Aug 2, 2017)

Welcome to the CABE!


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## Jeff54 (Aug 2, 2017)

Venom5sc said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Although this is not 1952 but a 51 catalog from a hardware store, no less. , you can magnify it if needed to see the stripes on bars like yours; here's another clue to what it is: D-25 'Spitfire' for the heart chain ring  or the D-24, if ya wanna change it, Yet also during this year, this company displayed the striped bars; 'Spitfire', without the goodies; Chain Guard, tank, light, and no duck tail fender as the D-24 has, so, chose your weapon; [wink]


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## johnboy (Aug 2, 2017)

HELLO & WELCOME---- YOU HAVE A COUPLE OF NICE BIKES THERE. UNLESS I MISSED IT, I DON'T THINK YOU MENTIONED THE LOCATION OF EITHER SERIAL NUMBER--- UNDER THE CRANK (BOTTOM BRACKET) OR THE LEFT REAR DROPOUT (WHERE THE REAR WHEEL IS MOUNTED).  IF THE NUMBERS ARE UNDER THE CRANK BOTTOM BRACKET , I'LL BET BOTH BIKES ARE 1946 . IF THE NUMBERS ARE ON THE LEFT REAR DROPOUT THE FRAMES ARE FROM THE 1950'S. I'M SURE SOME LONGTIME SCHWINN EXPERTS WILL WEIGH IN WITH THEIR THOUGHTS. I HAVE A "DX", SERIAL B61166 ON THE BOTTOM BRACKET AND HAVE BEEN TOLD IT'S A 1946.


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## Venom5sc (Aug 2, 2017)

I am so confused! Did they make both straight bar and the slightly curved bar frames during the same year? Did some bikes of the same year have removable kick stands and others built in?

I would agree that the frame I have with the pin stripes and curved bar could be a 52. The removable kickstand and heart shape sprocket.

Johnny, how does your bike compare? What does the head badge look like?

Thank you all again for welcoming me to the group. I really enjoy riding this bike to the point it annoys my wife, lol.


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## GTs58 (Aug 2, 2017)

_I am so confused! Did they make both straight bar and the slightly curved bar frames during the same year? Did some bikes of the same year have removable kick stands and others built in?_ ........................*Yes*

Schwinn used some of the post war serial numbers up to three times and the post war numbers are repeats of pre war numbers. Location of the SN needs to be specified when trying to identify one of these 50's Schwinns. Your SN's were used in 46, 52, 53 and 57. Where are your numbers located?

By the way, I think the Schwinncruisers.com catalog page for 1952 is screwed up and has entries from 1953. Unfortunately that site is riddled with errors.


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## Venom5sc (Aug 3, 2017)

Both bikes have the serial numbers on the bottom of the bottom bracket


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## Jeff54 (Aug 3, 2017)

Venom5sc said:


> Both bikes have the serial numbers on the bottom of the bottom bracket



In that case, you get to back step as the B is believed to be in the 1946 arena. And coincidently, I'm trying to track down B serial number DX type frame without the traditional paint scheme. Not stripes but another b/c the info in 46 is very, very limited. . In the mean time, like yours but in 49, beyond the known Schwinn made catalogs, an  striped version of the 'Men's Flying Star' shows up but with different fork. I expect that, if anybody has wholesaler's catalogs from 46 and 47, a ton of bikes get I.D.-ed, yet, in the mean time,  there's the 51 above and two from  1949 here to derive clues from while below it, in 1948 catalogs your flat bar might be an DB97XE equipped if tank etc, unequipped without:


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## Venom5sc (Aug 3, 2017)

THOSE ARE PERFECT MATCHES!!! Thank you Jeff!

The Men's Flying Star is exactly like my second bike.  The frame is the same style along with the paint scheme, crank set, handlebars, detachable kickstand and even the seat springs are the same.  I thought the chain guard looked to be some add on too... that's because it didn't come with one.

The DB97XE is also the same as the picture.  Frame style, paint scheme, cranks set, handlebars, attached kickstand, seat springs and truss rods (mine are missing but the top bracket is there... anyone have a rusty set?)  Ironically I found a set of fenders that matched the patina perfectly.  They do have the ruby reflector on the rear fender but the front fender does not flair out in the back like the one in the picture.  The fenders were not fitting because of the Fat Frank tires so I took them back off for now.  At least I have them if I decide to change the tires in the future.


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## Venom5sc (Aug 3, 2017)

Any idea what the Flying Star badge would have looked like?


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## Jeff54 (Aug 4, 2017)

Lucky U, I just happened to run across what's suposta be a 47/8 spitfire, albeit I donno if 46 did this:
http://jims59.com/vintageschwinns/Jims vintage Schwinn Balloon Tire Bicycle Collection.html


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## scale (Aug 13, 2017)

i really really like the firehose seat cloth idea. How did you attach it to the rusty pan? i have a simular condition bike and need to do somthing simular here and this looks fantastic.
Did you skin the hose and sew a couple of pieces lengthwise to get it wide enough?


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## Venom5sc (Aug 14, 2017)

scale said:


> i really really like the firehose seat cloth idea. How did you attach it to the rusty pan? i have a simular condition bike and need to do somthing simular here and this looks fantastic.
> Did you skin the hose and sew a couple of pieces lengthwise to get it wide enough?
> 
> View attachment 659649




I started off by cutting the hose length wise but wasnt wide enough like you said. I then made a fiberglass cover to go over the top pan so I had something to bond too. I sprayed the back of the hose and tge fiberglass pan with adhesive and placed one piece of hose on the pan then overlapped another piece. Once it was dry I trimmed the excess and sandwiched it in between the metal pans. Not perfect but didn't want it to be. Later I took a grinder to it in order to rough it up so it didnt look new.  If you need me to take it apart and take pictures I can.

I sewed pieces of hose together but sitting on the seam was too uncomfortable


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## REC (Aug 16, 2017)

Venom5sc said:


> Any idea what the Flying Star badge would have looked like?



Two versions - First is the older "footed" version from the late 30s, second is the last one








I have an original one of the newer ones, but can't find that picture - this one was from eBay, and I believe it is a reproduction.
REC


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## scale (Aug 19, 2017)

Venom5sc said:


> I started off by cutting the hose length wise but wasnt wide enough like you said. I then made a fiberglass cover to go over the top pan so I had something to bond too. I sprayed the back of the hose and tge fiberglass pan with adhesive and placed one piece of hose on the pan then overlapped another piece. Once it was dry I trimmed the excess and sandwiched it in between the metal pans. Not perfect but didn't want it to be. Later I took a grinder to it in order to rough it up so it didnt look new.  If you need me to take it apart and take pictures I can.
> 
> I sewed pieces of hose together but sitting on the seam was too uncomfortable





I think that turned out looking very good. Id be curious on the fiberglass piece you fabricated. I have the same seat in the same condition and i am wanting to do something similar.

I used to have long section of fire hose but got rid of it 2 years ago. I wonder if they just sell that thick cloth they use for it somewhere? It seems perfect for this application.


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## scale (Aug 25, 2017)

scale said:


> I think that turned out looking very good. i.d. be curious on the fiberglass piece you fabricated. I have the same seat in the same condition and i am wanting to do something similar.
> 
> I used to have long section of fire hose but got rid of it 2 years ago. I wonder if they just sell that thick cloth they use for it somewhere? It seems perfect for this application.





Heck...i found a guy that sells old hose by the foot........for a bit less then $3 a foot. That should work fine.


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## Venom5sc (Aug 25, 2017)

Scale,

I have a 50 ' roll.  I can send you some if you would like.  Let me know how much.  If you would like the fiberglass cover I could make another one of those too but it may take awhile before I can get it done.


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## scale (Aug 25, 2017)

Thanks! I just ordered 3 feet. I should be good for hose cloth. I sure appreciate it though. 

Id be curious on the cover and what that takes to get done.  Do you have your process or pictures? I certainly wouldnt expect you to go out of your way to make one just for me.


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## Venom5sc (Aug 25, 2017)

I looked and unfortunately it doesn't look like I took any pictures, Sorry! 

I work at a fiberglass shop so the materials were handy.  I wire brushed the top pan and then applied a good coat of honey wax over the top surface to make sure the fiberglass did not stick. Pretty sure I wouldn't of had to do that because it typically will not bond to metal anyway but with the pitting in the metal it wasn't worth the chance.  I then took a piece of scrap glass mat and wet it out with catalyzed resin using a paint brush.  Once the resin cured I popped it off the seat pan and cut off the excess and ground the edges.  From there I sanded down the top surface, cleaned it off, then used spray adhesive on the fiberglass piece and backside of the hose material.  Once it tacked up I placed the hose material on the fiberglass.  After repeating the process for the second half of the seat (hoes not wide enough) I let it sit for a day to dry.  The next day I trimmed the hose material so there was about an inch border around the seat pan and then cut inward every inch or so in order to make tabs that I could tuck under and sandwich between the two metal seat pans when i put it all together.  The hose material is not flexible enough to just fold over and tuck in.  If I can sneak out into the garage I will take apart the seat and get pictures for you.


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## barneyguey (Jan 16, 2018)

REC said:


> Two versions - First is the older "footed" version from the late 30s, second is the last one
> View attachment 661318
> 
> View attachment 661319
> ...



Here's another style!


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