# Suburbans...I forgot how great they ride



## Siestabikes (May 7, 2022)

I've been riding a Racer for the past few months and though it looks great it doesn't have the same feel as the Suburban. I picked up this 1971 at a yard sale and greased the bearings, polished the paint with a pad on a drill, put on new tires and now its so nimble and smooth


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## marching_out (May 8, 2022)

Agreed. My wife and I take our Suburbans on all of our vacations. Great riders and do everything we need them to.


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## SirMike1983 (May 8, 2022)

They're sort of a forerunner to the "hybrid commuter" type bike sold in many cities today where you get an upright frame, multigear, and accessories to go to work, school, the grocery store, etc. The frames, especially the taller ones have a heavy, solid feel. They are very durable. They can benefit a lot from a better set of tires than the cheap, economy ones. They can still be bought at garage sale type prices and make good riders. They're kind of under-appreciated on the whole.


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## Arnold Ziffel (May 9, 2022)

The  1970 - 1976  5 speed SUBURBAN is a fantastic bicycle!
1977 saw the introduction of FFS.
The ten speed SUBURBANS are very good but not as good as the 5 speed model.
The five speed has a Shimano built rear derailleur (GT-100  on 1970 thru Feb '74 and GT-120 on 1974 on)   and the five speed has the superior Shimano built Model J freewheel.
The 10 speed SUBURBAN has the same  exact French .(model F) freewheel as the Continental & Varsity,  and the same inferior Huret Allvit  rear derailleur,  unless you were lucky enough to get a Varsity or Suburban 10 speed that was built on a day that the Chicago plant's production line was out of Allvits, so they substituted the superior Shimano built rear derailleur of the 5 speed Suburban & '70-'77 Collegiate.
The ten speed SUBURBAN was essentially an UPGRADED Varsity Tourist model.
Last year of the Varsity Tourist model was 1969.
The Suburban was introduced in 1970.
Intitially you had 5 speed,  10 speed  &  3 speed SUBURBAN models.
The 3 speed was discontinued after 1971.
They may have slapped the Suburban name again on a  ordinary 3 speed near the Chicago end as they did with the Collegiate name,  but   Suburbans were 5 speeds and 10 speeds, and also in '70 & '71 only you could get a 3 speed. 
The reason that the SUBURBAN was an UPGRADE over the VARSITY is because the SUBURBANS have the tubular front fork that the Schwinn Continental has.    While the Continental has center pull brakes,  the Suburban uses the same L.S. 2.4  Weinmann sidepulls as the Varsity but  with the Continental's front fork.
Geometry of the Suburban frame is exactly the same as the Varsity & Continental.
There is absolutely no geometry & ride difference once you swap the seats and swap the drop bars for 7881 tourist handlebars & weinmann tourist levers.    The tubular front fork of the Continentals & Suburbans is lighter than the blade front fork that the Varsity, Collegiate and other common Schwinns have.
Yes, you'll notice that the SUBURBAN has large flange wheels,  while the Varsity doesn't  but  in my opinion that this does absolutely nothing to change the ride quality.
The Ashtabula blade fork is perfectly fine too.   Anyone who has ridden a 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATE can attest that is probably Schwinn's all-time best riding and most practical bicycle from a gear range perspective.
The wider (37-597) and smaller 597mm (26 x 1 3/8   597mm)  wheel & tire offer a Cadillac ride while at the same time the '70-'77 Collegiate (five speed) has superior low gear hill climbing than the Varsity/Continental and 10 speed Suburban.
The 1964 -1969 Collegiate has awful hill climbing as it has the same French made (14-28) freewheel as the  late sixties and seventies Varsity & Continentals .        The  Japanese made (14-32) freewheel that the 1970 - 1977 Collegiate and the 1970 - 1976 Suburban 5 speed   has   IS THE PERFECT UPGRADE FOR ANY Varsity, Continental, 10 speed Suburban, or sixties era Collegiate.     You will significantly improve hill climbing ability,  but you must employ a Japanese rear derailleur as the European rear derailleurs will not be capable of shifting the 32 teeth first gear cog,  they can't reliably shift anything beyond 28 teeth.
The 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATE   and the 1970 - 1976 Schwinn SUBURBAN 5 speed are the best bicycles that Schwinn ever made in my opinion.       
The only bad things that you can say about SUBURBAN 5 speeds of 1970 -1976  are that the paint colors offered during certain years are not nearly as attractive as those offered in certain years and/or same years on Varsity/Collegiate other models.
The decals/graphics on for example a '72 Suburban Campus Green colored bike will nearly disappear or seem to disappear into the paint.   The chainguard decals and the front fork decals on Suburban models have always been ugly when compared to the bike boom era Collegiates, Breezes, Speedsters.     Because the Suburban was targeted at a more mature adult consumer, Schwinn probably didn't concern themselves with that issue.   The other thing that I dislike is only on 1974 Suburban five speeds.   I do not like the thumb shifter on the 1974  five speed.   I like the (S) schwinn stik stem shifter.  1975 model saw the return on the (S) schwinn stik on the stem.    That isn't a big deal because its easy to change.   I also find that the tall plastic rectangular rear fender reflectors that are seen on 1974 and later Collegiates & Suburbans are UGLY when compared to the round rear fender reflector that sits on that metal bezel.
I do find that the schwinn model 7881 handlebars that the Suburbans, Collegiates,Breezes etc., came with from 1967 through 1977 are the finest tourist handlebars that Schwinn or anyone else ever offered in my opinion.
The Suburban's  Deluxe Mattress Saddle  is  an extremely comfortable seat, though it weighs nearly five pounds.  The only Schwinn tourist seat that is more comfortable in my opinion is the BLACK rubberized vinyl Messinger T-85 spring seat which came on the 1971 and later Collegiate.     Those older "cool" looking  two-tone 'S' seats are horrible in comparison to those two Schwinn seats that I just mentioned.
The SUBURBAN has probably the best tourist style (ordinary pedals) pedals that any Schwinn bike ever had. (those GERMAN made "BOW PEDALS" with reflectors).     Great pedals in my opinion from a tourist style riders" standpoint.
It is simple enough to as the old Burger King ads  stated,  back when Chicago Schwinn was king and inflation and gasoline prices were a serious concern---Have It Your Way............just like the groovin Isley Brothers said in their 1969 smash hit, Its Your Thing Do Whatcha Wanna Do...
That is perhaps the coolest thing is that by mixing and matching only very slightly from different year SCHWINN models, one can build a fantastic rider that suits them perfectly.     Personally,  I hate the two tone 'S' seats that are seen on many sixties era Schwinns and I hate the chainguard style that the COLLEGIATE/SUBURBAN got from about 1975 on.   See the chainguards used on 1972 & 1973 and earlier Collegiates/Suburbans  and compare with 1975 & 1976 and later.
Some people love the two tone seats and those other chainguards,  and that is a great thing.   Do it your way.  Life would be boring if everyone's bicycles looked exactly the same.
SUBURBANS and seventies era Collegiate 5 speeds are superb bicycles that too many often overlook because they aren't valuable from a collector's standpoint  even though they are  great riders.   Really, any 1967 or later Varsity/Continental/and '64-69 Collegiate can be a great rider WITH CERTAIN UPGRADES from the Schwinn parts bin.
Don't forget that if you stick the tubular front fork from a Continental on to a Varsity,  you have an instant SUBURBAN 10 speed.
Upgrade the VARSITY/CONTINENTAL & '64-'69 Collegiate  AND the 10 speed Suburban WITH the FREEWHEEL FROM THE 1970-1977 Collegiate & 1970 - 1976 Suburban 5 speed ,  and you WILL HAVE A GREAT BIKE.  Just remember that you'll need the Japanese rear derailleur (GT-100 or GT-120, or  something from Maeda SUNTOUR or a SHIMANO model..)

The step-Thru   Womens models of electroforged Schwinn lightweights are great choices for older and middle-aged men.
They came in three different frame sizes during the bike-boom era of the seventies (17), (19), (21).
The 19  and 21 inch sizes  will accomodate most men.    The 19 inch will work well for men under 5'-11"  and the 21 inch will work for most men under 6'-2" inches tall.
You may have to get a longer 13/16" seatpost than the stock nine inch post, but because of the Sting-Ray banana seat bikes, you have 14 inch seat posts  and WALD makes several NEW replacement seat posts in several lengths greater than 10 and 12 inches that you can get.
No joke,  the old ancient 19 inch womens  frame is Bigger than the new men's frames that you'll find today at  Walmart & Target.
The 21 inch womens step thru  frames on SUBURBANS/VARSITIES/COLLEGIATES etc  are  a  lot  bigger than the men's frames that you'll find at Walmart & Target and other big box stores.
Guess what,  the  build quality of those old ancient Chicago Schwinn electroforged lightweight models were the best in the world. You'll have no worries about possible weld failures or frame cracks.   You can't say that for a same era AMF, Columbia, Murray, Huffy, Iverson, etc..
The other thing that many folks fail to realize is that you can build many things around either a Diamond or Step Through electroforged lightweight Schwinn frame.      You can fit a very wide wheel on such a frame without too much difficulty.
You can build one helluva coaster brake beach cruiser if you want to.
These old frames come in so many large sizes that you cannot find in the cantilever framed models.
So don't pass by those old VARSITIES-CONTINENTALS/SUBURBANS/COLLEGIATES/ etc  that you see at the dump or curbside on trash day  because you might realize that that you may want to build a project around that larger frame size that is more comfortable for you as a 68 year old adult today than the same cantilever framed model that you and Opie Taylor once rode as  eight year olds back in the sixties.  I'm sure that you could go to town with a welder if you wanted to get that nostalgic goofball howdy-dooty custom tank look, with light and horn and idiotic springer helper front end if you wanted to.
If you have the ability to weld, and you can dream it up,  then why the hell not?    You might have fun building something large enough for you as an adult today that looks almost like what you rode when you were 8 years old and half a foot shorter and 150 pounds lighter.     One of those old Suburban/Varsity etc frames would offer the great starting point for welding/cutting/customizing to build a rather large size howdy-dooty type bike with cantilever and tank, lights etc.
Schwinn built everything really heavy and solid back in the day.
The ride quality was and still is extremely nice on these ancient bikes.
Schwinn engineers knew something about how a basic bike should ride,  even though they never figured out how to make a true lightweight bicycle.    Bombproof durability and a quality ride, so you can really say that two out of three things sure ain't bad.


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (May 9, 2022)

Arnold Ziffel said:


> The  1970 - 1976  5 speed SUBURBAN is a fantastic bicycle!
> 1977 saw the introduction of FFS.
> The ten speed SUBURBANS are very good but not as good as the 5 speed model.
> The five speed has a Shimano built rear derailleur (GT-100  on 1970 thru Feb '74 and GT-120 on 1974 on)   and the five speed has the superior Shimano built Model J freewheel.
> ...



You have made me fall in love with my 1970 Rootbeer 3 speed Suburban that has played second fiddle to my middle weights.


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## Balloontyre (Sep 3, 2022)

One of the easiest riding bikes. I like em.

Picked up this black 1976 10-speed a few weeks back at a local estate sale.


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## Oilit (Sep 3, 2022)

Balloontyre said:


> One of the easiest riding bikes. I like em.
> 
> Picked up this black 1976 10-speed a few weeks back at a local estate sale.
> View attachment 1690087
> ...



Black is probably the best color on a Suburban. Sharp looking bike!


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## Lonestar (Sep 3, 2022)

Now I want to dig mine out & give it a ride! 
I love that black one, too!


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## Eric Amlie (Sep 4, 2022)

I've always wondered why Schwinn didn't make a version of the Suburban using their fillet brazed chrome-moly frame set.
They didn't, so I did.


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## Rigs (Sep 4, 2022)

Arnold Ziffel said:


> The  1970 - 1976  5 speed SUBURBAN is a fantastic bicycle!
> 1977 saw the introduction of FFS.
> The ten speed SUBURBANS are very good but not as good as the 5 speed model.
> The five speed has a Shimano built rear derailleur (GT-100  on 1970 thru Feb '74 and GT-120 on 1974 on)   and the five speed has the superior Shimano built Model J freewheel.
> ...















Brand new bike.


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## Drosentreter (Sep 4, 2022)

My 1973 Tall frame 5 speed that I have since sold to @irideiam


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## fotomatt1 (Sep 8, 2022)

I just picked up this 1977 Suburban 5 Speed (FFS) last week pretty inexpensively.  It's 99% original.  The only thing replaced were tires and tubes according to the original owner simply because they dried out and cracked.  He said it mostly sat in his living room as a decoration for most of its life and his wife was tired of looking at it.  I'm in the process of building a Klunker from a 1953 Schwinn Panther frame and it got me wondering what the possibilities are for the Suburban?  Anybody do a gravel conversion or a restomod? I can lave it completely original and be happy with it, but I think it would be a cool frame for a project, especially in the condition it's in.  Thoughts?


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## Siestabikes (Sep 10, 2022)

Nice Bluburban. I would leave it as is. That lightweight red Superior might be a better candidate for a gravel conversion because of the weight and options for 3 piece cranks.


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## Schwinndemonium (Sep 11, 2022)

My lime 1974 small frame. Beautiful bike in the first year for it in this color! It is a duplicate of a bike I ordered  new in the spring of 1974, but was forced to sell it a year later so I could buy my first car. I picked this one up at a Quakertown, PA antiques mall in 2009 to replace it. My original lime Sub was a 22 inch frame bike with a regular Schwinn Ashtabula drop forged blade fork, instead of the normal tubular fork, which made it a bit odd, as they were supposed to have the tubular. I guess their supplier at the time could not keep up with tubular forks for my Sub, so it was equipped with the Ashtabula unit. I was a bit disappointed when I got the bike, and it was not as it was supposed to be. The bike shop owner said if I wasn't happy with it, they would buy it back from me and I could have walked away from it, but I decided to keep it.


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## fotomatt1 (Sep 11, 2022)

Schwinndemonium said:


> My lime 1974 small frame. Beautiful bike in the first year for it in this color! It is a duplicate of a bike I ordered  new in the spring of 1974, but was forced to sell it a year later so I could buy my first car. I picked this one up at a Quakertown, PA antiques mall in 2009 to replace it. My original lime Sub was a 22 inch frame bike with a regular Schwinn Ashtabula drop forged blade fork, instead of the normal tubular fork, which made it a bit odd, as they were supposed to have the tubular. I guess their supplier at the time could not keep up with tubular forks for my Sub, so it was equipped with the Ashtabula unit. I was a bit disappointed when I got the bike, and it was not as it was supposed to be. The bike shop owner said if I wasn't happy with it, they would buy it back from me and I could have walked away from it, but I decided to keep it.View attachment 1693998



So funny.  My blue one posted above is also from the Quakertown Antique Mall from Carl’s Antique Bikes.  It was Carl’s personal bike. Lol


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## Schwinndemonium (Sep 11, 2022)

View attachment 1694011 Oops!


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## Schwinndemonium (Sep 11, 2022)

Side shot! This bike is in all but perfect 



shape!


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## Monarkman (Sep 11, 2022)

I personally would leave it as it is, original.


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## Oilit (Sep 12, 2022)

fotomatt1 said:


> I just picked up this 1977 Suburban 5 Speed (FFS) last week pretty inexpensively.  It's 99% original.  The only thing replaced were tires and tubes according to the original owner simply because they dried out and cracked.  He said it mostly sat in his living room as a decoration for most of its life and his wife was tired of looking at it.  I'm in the process of building a Klunker from a 1953 Schwinn Panther frame and it got me wondering what the possibilities are for the Suburban?  Anybody do a gravel conversion or a restomod? I can lave it completely original and be happy with it, but I think it would be a cool frame for a project, especially in the condition it's in.  Thoughts?
> View attachment 1692695
> 
> View attachment 1692696
> ...



That one is nice enough that I would have a hard time modifying it. I have a green five-speed that the chrome is pretty rusty so just about anything you could do would be an improvement. If we were closer you could have it.


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## DrRumack80 (Sep 26, 2022)

I picked up this January, 1971 Suburban 5 speed from the original owner. It's all original, including cables and brake pads, but with new tires.  Note the gold dot and red dot brake levers - perhaps this was a transition period? I also noted an error in the lacing of the rear rim - spokes cross by the valve stem. The front and rear wheels are both S-6's with "1-71" date code hubs. Either it's a factory error or a replacement S-6 was laced to the old hub. Bow pedals are in excellent condition.  The decals are intact, but the gold lettering has become faint and difficult to see.  

    Having ridden mostly 24" frame Continentals and Varsities, the 22" frame on this bike feels a bit small. (I'm 6'1).  After taking these photos, I added a longer seatpost and a vintage Brooks sprung saddle (B66? not sure) I had laying around.  The bike rides fine, but looks a bit awkward to my eye with an additional 1" of seatpost sticking out.

Are gold replacement decals available? I only see the white and black decals on Ebay.


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## HEMI426 (Sep 26, 2022)

Thanks for posting this thread, I picked up a minty `70 Suburban from the OG owner he kept in his basement. Didn't know much about them until I read this thread. I have it for sale locally, I might have to raise the price. Thanks


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## DrRumack80 (Sep 26, 2022)

That is incredibly clean!  FYI, serial number indicates  June, 1971.


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## Rollo (Sep 26, 2022)

... After seeing this thread I picked up this '71 ladies Suburban in like new condition ... sporting a Miller generator light at last weekend's bike swap for $50
... You guys are spot on about being a great ride! ...


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## DrRumack80 (Sep 27, 2022)

Rollo said:


> ... After seeing this thread I picked up this '71 ladies Suburban in like new condition ... sporting a Miller generator light at last weekend's bike swap for $50
> ... You guys are spot on about being a great ride! ...



Great deal!  Burgundy is a great color too. Suburbans are a bit heavy, but they are smooth-riding, practical bikes.


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## Siestabikes (Dec 8, 2022)

I bought this 1975 from the original owner's mechanic after she passed away. Truly a time capsule. The original tires had zero wear exept for the sidewalls which looked like bubbled pizza crust from years of hanging


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## Ernbar (Dec 8, 2022)

Mine is a ten speed 1980 Spicy Chestnut color with Shimano positron shifter. Very comfortable rider.


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## Drosentreter (Dec 8, 2022)

What year did they change the freewheel location from rear wheel to crank? @GTs58?


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## GTs58 (Dec 8, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> What year did they change the freewheel location from rear wheel to crank? @GTs58?



1977


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Dec 9, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> What year did they change the freewheel location from rear wheel to crank? @GTs58?





GTs58 said:


> 1977



What does this mean? The crank freewheels as opposed to the rear hub?


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## Drosentreter (Dec 9, 2022)

coasterbrakejunkie1969 said:


> What does this mean? The crank freewheels as opposed to the rear hub?



Exactly. I thought it was pretty wild when I found out lol.


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Dec 9, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> Exactly. I thought it was pretty wild when I found out lol.



Yes I have a '70 3 speed I love it. Does any one have some pictures of what you are talking about?


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## Eric Amlie (Dec 9, 2022)

The idea of the Front Freewheel System was that the rider could shift gears without pedaling.
It was a concession to people who weren't experienced in riding conventional derailleur equipped bikes.


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## Ernbar (Dec 9, 2022)

Drosentreter said:


> Exactly. I thought it was pretty wild when I found out lol.



I actually like the Positron over the friction shifting. I find the Positron  shifter to work smoother and can shift while coasting which is very cool.


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## bikecrazy (Dec 9, 2022)

What are the advantages of a tubular fork over an ashtabula forged fork? Also the pros and cons of the FFS freewheel system.


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Dec 9, 2022)

bikecrazy said:


> What are the advantages of a tubular fork over an ashtabula forged fork? Also the pros and cons of the FFS freewheel system.



My guess , lighter weight and a smoother ride


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## Ernbar (Dec 9, 2022)

coasterbrakejunkie1969 said:


> My guess , lighter weight and a smoother ride



And smoother shifting  either pedaling or coasting and Ashtabula is stronger.


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## Eric Amlie (Dec 9, 2022)

bikecrazy said:


> What are the advantages of a tubular fork over an ashtabula forged fork? Also the pros and cons of the FFS freewheel system.



A blade fork has good fore/aft strength, but not good lateral(side to side) strength.
As well as a weight savings, a good tubular fork has better lateral strength.


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## Drosentreter (Dec 9, 2022)

coasterbrakejunkie1969 said:


> Yes I have a '70 3 speed I love it. Does any one have some pictures of what you are talking about?



Just like the one @Ernbar posted earlier. If I can I’ll get a pic tonight of one off the bike.


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## GTs58 (Dec 9, 2022)

coasterbrakejunkie1969 said:


> Yes I have a '70 3 speed I love it. Does any one have some pictures of what you are talking about?





This vid explains/shows the setup.


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## DrRumack80 (Dec 10, 2022)

Eric Amlie said:


> A blade fork has good fore/aft strength, but not good lateral(side to side) strength.
> As well as a weight savings, a good tubular fork has better lateral strength.



Very true. I equipped a Varsity with a cycle computer with the sensor mounted on the fork and a magnet in the spokes.  When cornering, the magnet would make contact with the sensor. Not so with the same setup on a Continental


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## davek (Dec 10, 2022)

The positron front free wheel was a good shifting system but I don’t believe there’s a lot of parts out there today


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## soddruntlestuntle (Dec 14, 2022)

I bought this '73 a couple months ago for peanuts.  Absolutely mint condition, doubt it was ridden more than a handful of times.  I had to sell it though, as every time I worked on it, moved it, BREATHED on it, I put a scratch in the finish, and I couldn't take it any more.  Sold it to an acquaintance where it's now in loving hands, though I still miss it dearly and will definitely buy another one when the time is right, though one not so tall.


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## Ernbar (Dec 14, 2022)

davek said:


> The positron front free wheel was a good shifting system but I don’t believe there’s a lot of parts out there today



It’s fairly trouble and maintenance free. The gear shifting wire broke on mine a couple of years back but found a NOS one on eBay for $20.


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## TomKroon (Dec 17, 2022)

what 27 inch tires did you use to replace the old ones?  they dont come 27 x 1.25 anymore   Wanting to put my old 1970 / 1971 Suburban back to ride able  condition. Still has original tires   Thank You,   Tom


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## GTs58 (Dec 17, 2022)

TomKroon said:


> what 27 inch tires did you use to replace the old ones?  they dont come 27 x 1.25 anymore   Wanting to put my old 1970 / 1971 Suburban back to ride able  condition. Still has original tires   Thank You,   Tom




Here you go, have fun Christmas shopping. 









						27 x 1 1/4 bike tires for sale | eBay
					

Get the best deals for 27 x 1 1/4 bike tires at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!



					www.ebay.com


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## Ernbar (Dec 17, 2022)

I highly recommended Continental tires that fit right on and have EXCELLENT traction. I have a pair of Duros that would NOT seat properly no matter what.


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## DrRumack80 (Dec 17, 2022)

Ernbar said:


> I highly recommended Continental tires that fit right on and have EXCELLENT traction. I have a pair of Duros that would NOT seat properly no matter what.



Sometimes, it's the rim that determines how well a tire seats, or doesn't.  I had a '79 Fuji S-12S that I could never get a tire of any brand to seat on. Once the pressure hit 70lbs, the tire would creep off the rim. Even my LBS gave up. The bike itself had not been ridden much and the rims had no damage.  

The '73 World Voyageur I had was a different story. It took Park metal tire levers to get the bead seated. They were straight side rims and could be pumped up to 90lbs with no bead creep. This was with Kenda 27 1 1/4 gum walls.  Very tight tolerances on these rims, which I believe were Arayas.

With the Chicago Schwinns, I have found it easier to seat tires on  the steel S-6 rims vs the Weinmann alloy rims found on Super Sports, Sports Tourers, etc.  My '71 Suburban and '74 Varsity are both equipped with Kenda 27 x 1 1/14


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## Bru (Dec 17, 2022)

On my Suburban, I finally took the time to decipher and lookup the name and address on the bike shop sticker. Turns out the bike shop (which isn't in business now) is/was close to my house. There's a Chicago police station on that location now (near the corner of Foster and Milwaukee avenues).


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