# Oxalic acid bath before and afters



## joel.romeo.79 (Oct 20, 2014)

When I accidentally post a photo of some progress on someone else's  old Monark and my phone blows up while I am working because everyone he knows is suddenly trying to buy it before I put the rest of the parts I have for it on there to make it a complete rideable rust arrested bike.  Any way i forgot to pull the headbadge on Kate Bluegrass Hardware and of course it turned pink. Any advice on what to put it in to take that garbage back off and leave the paint would be worth a lot to me. I am kind of pissed at a handful of asshats right now for all the distractions. You may save a life or two. 


It wasn't me I swear.


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## joel.romeo.79 (Oct 3, 2015)

I am getting really good with this. I found a few hundred pages of bibliography and data charts on the use of organic acids. 2.5 ph and 150 degrees Fahrenheit works best from what i have read. Uv radiation accelerates the process as well

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## joel.romeo.79 (Oct 3, 2015)

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## joel.romeo.79 (Oct 3, 2015)

this one is straight from the tub on that Elgin fender

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## vincev (Oct 3, 2015)




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## rollfaster (Oct 3, 2015)

vincev said:


> View attachment 240802View attachment 240803




I'm glad you posted that bike Vince. It's the best example of what OA is capable of IMO. Turned out so damn great. Rob.


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## vincev (Oct 3, 2015)

rollfaster said:


> I'm glad you posted that bike Vince. It's the best example of what OA is capable of IMO. Turned out so damn great. Rob.




Thank you Rob.


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## Nos (Oct 5, 2015)

rollfaster said:


> I'm glad you posted that bike Vince. It's the best example of what OA is capable of IMO. Turned out so damn great. Rob.









Vince cheated. He swapped some parts. *grin*


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## jimbo53 (Oct 8, 2015)

Before:




During:




After:




NOTHING cleans corrosion and rust from chrome like this stuff!


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## the tinker (Oct 8, 2015)

This little tub costs under $10. Is available at Ace hardware and is enough to easily do 4- 5 bikes.
The "half" rusty fender was only partially submerged in OX. A. to  demonstrate it's effectiveness.


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## videoranger (Oct 8, 2015)

Have any Cabers tried molasses? Looks like a good rust remover.
https://www.google.com/search?q=molasses+rust+removal+youtube&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


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## bricycle (Oct 8, 2015)

I have tried it as a last resort on severely rusted items that you need to get apart... works well, but takes weeks, not hours like Oxalic acid.
also turns metal black.


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 8, 2015)

When you look at each of these items, the common thread emerges- namely that you need a solid foundation of existing paint to get the sorts of results in the pictures. I love oxalic acid for large number of uses, but people should not get misled by the pictures- not everyone is going to get these same, good results. If your underlying paint is compromised by too much rust, you will see much more bare metal and paint loss. Use the oxalic acid with caution and check the part often when you're getting started.


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## bricycle (Oct 8, 2015)

SirMike1983 said:


> When you look at each of these items, the common thread emerges- namely that you need a solid foundation of existing paint to get the sorts of results in the pictures. I love oxalic acid for large number of uses, but people should not get misled by the pictures- not everyone is going to get these same, good results. If your underlying paint is compromised by too much rust, you will see much more bare metal and paint loss. Use the oxalic acid with caution and check the part often when you're getting started.




plus, not recommended on red paint I've heard.


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## the tinker (Oct 8, 2015)

videoranger said:


> Have any Cabers tried molasses? Looks like a good rust remover.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=molasses+rust+removal+youtube&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-







I have never tried molasses but I heard about three little moles[ mommy, daddy and baby mole] that were tunneling under the ground,daddy mole leading. followed by mommy and then baby.
Daddy mole said ," Hey, I smell sorghum " and mommy said " I smell sassafras ." And baby said, " I smell Mole asses!"


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## Shawn Michael (Oct 8, 2015)

What needs to be done after an o.a. bath? Do you just rinse everything well or is a dressing needed afterwards like an oil or wax or clear finish? Thanks, Shawn


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## the tinker (Oct 9, 2015)

Shawn Michael said:


> What needs to be done after an o.a. bath? Do you just rinse everything well or is a dressing needed afterwards like an oil or wax or clear finish? Thanks, Shawn




Very good question. I am sure we will get several answers. As I get side tracked easily when I read the word"dressing" I immediately thought of the stovetop dressing we ate the other night. Sure was good . Can't wait until Thanks Giving. .....Getting back to your question it would depend on just how rusty and how much original finish is left after the OX bath.  On the rims I did the other day I just scrubbed them down with a wet rag [only water] afterwards there still was a residue on them and some road tar and what looked like some black spray paint over spray.  I lightly rubbed them down with mineral oil and then used Macquire's paste cleaner wax and they look great. There are some areas that have no paint on them as the rust was so deep the paint is long gone. Just don't rub too hard ,especially on striping.
That worked for me, now lets hear from the other folks......


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## Rivnut (Oct 9, 2015)

I had a 55 gallon plastic barrel with 18 gallons of water and two gallons of molasses in it.  I dipped lots of parts off my '64 Riviera in it.  It worked really well but as mentioned, it took a while.  I was in no rush. One thing I did find out is that you DO NOT want to use it on die cast or aluminum.  "Where did the threads on my seat gears go? "  AGGHHHHH!!!!.  

The molasses needs to be hosed off immediately with a power washer or some other high pressure water then spritzed with some metal prep.  All of the steel parts that I dipped now look like raw steel; they're not black and they haven't succumb to any surface rust.

Ed


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## Rivnut (Oct 9, 2015)

the tinker said:


> View attachment 241735
> This little tub costs under $10. Is available at Ace hardware and is enough to easily do 4- 5 bikes.
> The "half" rusty fender was only partially submerged in OX. A. to  demonstrate it's effectiveness.




5 lb. for $15.49.  5 lb. goes a long ways.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5lbs-5lb-OX...ys-Crystals-/261627570192?hash=item3cea37e810


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## petritl (May 4, 2019)

Before and after


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## tryder (May 4, 2019)

petritl said:


> Before and after
> 
> View attachment 991351
> 
> View attachment 991352



Amazing.  Who would have thought...
Great job!!!
Did you soak everything at once?
How much OA did you use?
How long did you soak it for?
Thanks.


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## petritl (May 4, 2019)

Wheels and pedals one day; everything else another day.

One cup of Oxalic Acid to a 3/4 full kiddie pool.
6hr soak

When done I scrubbed the parts in the kiddie pool with a soft bristle brush.

Removed from pool and rinsed with water, washed with soap and water. Towel dried and left in the sun to dry.

Wiped down with linseed oil


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## TieDye (May 4, 2019)

Here's one.  My 2-tone green Roadmaster.


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## tryder (May 4, 2019)

TieDye said:


> Here's one.  My 2-tone green Roadmaster.
> 
> View attachment 991463
> 
> View attachment 991464



Looks great.
The whole bike really pops.
So it's ok on cadnium?
I have been wondering about that


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## TieDye (May 4, 2019)

tryder said:


> Looks great.
> The whole bike really pops.
> So it's ok on cadnium?
> I have been wondering about that



I usually do it for a brief while, wash it off well, and then evapo-rust,  rinse and then buff, then linseed oil.


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## Phrank Vee (Jun 26, 2020)

the tinker said:


> View attachment 241735View attachment 241736View attachment 241737View attachment 241738
> This little tub costs under $10. Is available at Ace hardware and is enough to easily do 4- 5 bikes.
> The "half" rusty fender was only partially submerged in OX. A. to  demonstrate it's effectiveness.



I know I’m replying to a very old post.
Can anyone share the amounts of OA to put in the kiddie pool?
My 5lb bag just arrived, and I’m eager to start this wizardry. I’m only soaking one bike.
Also only painted parts go in the OA bath correct? No chrome, no lower bracket, No tires? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## Freqman1 (Jun 26, 2020)

Phrank Vee said:


> I know I’m replying to a very old post.
> Can anyone share the amounts of OA to put in the kiddie pool?
> My 5lb bag just arrived, and I’m eager to start this wizardry. I’m only soaking one bike.
> Also only painted parts go in the OA bath correct? No chrome, no lower bracket, No tires? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.




there should be some instructions on the tub how much OA per gallon but I don’t measure. I just pour about a cup or so,make sure the water is warm, and stir it up good before putting the parts in. V/r Shawn


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## crazyhawk (Jun 26, 2020)




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## the tinker (Jun 26, 2020)

Amount varies from Caber to Caber. Three heaping tablespoons mixed into a 5 gallon bucket of hot water works for me. Some guys use less.  First make sure your kiddy pool is large enough to hold your parts and fully submerge them.  You can make a frame with scrap lumber [2x8] the exact size of your bike frame and line with double or triple layer of plastic . Double it up so it won't get punctured and leak out on you. Always do outside, not in the basement, like I once did during the winter, and flood your floor out. Only soaking half a painted part at  time will sometimes leave a noticeable line in the paint. Place everything in your pool and add the mixture. Hot water works best. Make sure parts are free from grease.  Plated parts do not fare well in OX. A hard to remove yellow coating will cover the part. Too many better products available from autoparts and hardware stores, sold by the gallon.  Depending on how heavy the rust is, your parts could be done in an hour or less. I've  soaked badly rusted things overnight. Keep an eye on you parts.  Don't oversoak. OX attacks iron oxide and will follow rust under the paint and lift off the paint that normally would still adhere to your part, if not over soaked. Wash your parts off afterwards and wax. I don't use any kind of acid neutralizer afterwards. Just hose the parts off  and dry. Some red paints are made with iron oxide pigment and the Ox will lighten the paint to a pink . I once soaked two pre-war Colson frames, both red, and on the same day. One faded and the other one didn't. Go figure? My conclusion was that some paints that are badly faded, the paint has become  porous and "dead, " leaving it open to the adverse affects of the acid, turning the paint pink. Good luck.  I always save the solution afterwards. Makes a great mix for my wife's Lime Ricky's and Tom Collins.


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## KingSized HD (Jun 26, 2020)

“... Plated parts do not fare well in OX. A hard to remove yellow coating will cover the part.”

I’ve gotten great results with chrome parts in OA. Like paint, if the rust is so heavy that it has started to get under the chrome it’s going to eat that layer of rust and the chrome layer will then flake off.
I’ve seen the yellow coating happen when using old OA solution that’s gotten to the point that it’s no longer clear anymore or where I’ve left it in too long with a lot of other rusty parts. 
With the solution I use (1 1/2-2 Tablespoons per gallon of warm water) I keep a close eye on the parts, checking every 30-60 minutes or so to make sure nothing is going awry.
I’ve had OA take cadmium off of spokes and it’s left the spokes a dark grey. If I'm soaking fenders that have non-rusted cad braces I’ll cover the braces with painters tape and that has protected them.


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## Free Wheel (Jun 26, 2020)

that's right. i got some great results on chrome too. yellow crap means you're using an old solution or maybe too concentrated. keep cad stuff out of the ox bath. it will lift cad plating if you are not careful. i hear you on the commercial stuff. i have a bottle of evaprust somewhere here. but it's so friggin expensive for a little bottle. and sometimes you need bulk. like kiddie pool full. when you're done it looks like a the koolaid man took a big piss in the pool. ask me how i know.


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## Phrank Vee (Jun 27, 2020)

the tinker said:


> Amount varies from Caber to Caber. Three heaping tablespoons mixed into a 5 gallon bucket of hot water works for me. Some guys use less.  First make sure your kiddy pool is large enough to hold your parts and fully submerge them.  You can make a frame with scrap lumber [2x8] the exact size of your bike frame and line with double or triple layer of plastic . Double it up so it won't get punctured and leak out on you. Always do outside, not in the basement, like I once did during the winter, and flood your floor out. Only soaking half a painted part at  time will sometimes leave a noticeable line in the paint. Place everything in your pool and add the mixture. Hot water works best. Make sure parts are free from grease.  Plated parts do not fare well in OX. A hard to remove yellow coating will cover the part. Too many better products available from autoparts and hardware stores, sold by the gallon.  Depending on how heavy the rust is, your parts could be done in an hour or less. I've  soaked badly rusted things overnight. Keep an eye on you parts.  Don't oversoak. OX attacks iron oxide and will follow rust under the paint and lift off the paint that normally would still adhere to your part, if not over soaked. Wash your parts off afterwards and wax. I don't use any kind of acid neutralizer afterwards. Just hose the parts off  and dry. Some red paints are made with iron oxide pigment and the Ox will lighten the paint to a pink . I once soaked two pre-war Colson frames, both red, and on the same day. One faded and the other one didn't. Go figure? My conclusion was that some paints that are badly faded, the paint has become  porous and "dead, " leaving it open to the adverse affects of the acid, turning the paint pink. Good luck.  I always save the solution afterwards. Makes a great mix for my wife's Lime Ricky's and Tom Collins.



Hahahahahaha thanks for the copious notes! Stay tuned.


Free Wheel said:


> that's right. i got some great results on chrome too. yellow crap means you're using an old solution or maybe too concentrated. keep cad stuff out of the ox bath. it will lift cad plating if you are not careful. i hear you on the commercial stuff. i have a bottle of evaprust somewhere here. but it's so friggin expensive for a little bottle. and sometimes you need bulk. like kiddie pool full. when you're done it looks like a the koolaid man took a big piss in the pool. ask me how i know.



hahaha. What typically are cadmium items? Pedal crank? Rear hub components? Sorry for the rookie question


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## the tinker (Jun 27, 2020)

I like the commercial pre-mixed rust removers the best. Most are the safest and easiest to use, but you're right, they are way too expensive for large items, like a bike frame.  Some are extremely hazardous too. Read the label before you buy. I think I've tried them all.  The fastest acting was Crosave automobile wire wheel cleaner.  Instant and great, but the most deadly stuff I've used, next to muriatic acid. Badly rusted old S2 Schwinn rims look like new in a few minutes, but like I said, the stuff is deadly. Not for the hobbyist. There is a product sold called Acid Magic, that works great, and has way less fumes than muriatic. I left a Schwinn springer yoke in Acid Magic for a week. I forgot about it. Not only removed the rust, but every bit of chrome.  Terribly rusted iron can be dissolved away using these acids, but they always keep working , unless thoroughly neutralized afterwards. Steel covered in thick rust will be brought back to virgin metal, but will re-rust immediately as the acid causes additional rust to start the moment the metal is dry. These acids are used to make new steel products appear old and antique, as they oxidize the metal, leaving a cover of rust when not neutralized. The best rust remover I've seen used here on the CAbE, was by Caber, Chi-town. He's no longer around here, but a few years ago he got stuck with a load of lime juice. I guess he used it in the bakery he owns here in Chicago. [ Don't get me started on how much I hate Chicago. God, why did I say that word? How much do I hate Chicago? Let me count the ways .... ] Anyway, lime juice works as good as any of them.



When using hazardous chemicals, I let my wife clean them. She typically dresses like this and has very long nails. Great for digging out pockets of corrosion. We've been married a long time. Some women lose their beauty, but she's an exception, don't you think? God, I love her, that woman of mine. . .




Her burka covers a nasty scar on her chin.[She's very self-conscious about it] A rivet let loose on my air compressor and clocked her under the chin. I dug it out with a Schwinn kickstand pin removal tool. She made me get rid of the compressor. Fellow CABE member "Neanderthal " now has it in his garage.



Took her to the "Corn Museum " afterwards . That made her happy.







A before and after of Oxalic Acid










These are our children, getting ready for the 4th.



Above is an example of what you can do with parts bought at swaps or here on the CABE. The sky's the limit. Have fun, and work safe.


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## 3-speeder (Jul 11, 2020)

My $20 1950 Schwinn World.


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