# 1940 '41 Murray ELGIN



## dodgerblue (Jul 26, 2015)

Since Im finally able to post pictures , will try to post updated flicks of work as I progress . This a bike I got from cabe member ( bikeworder ) about a year ago. It was about 75% of complete ride . I have almost everything needed to get on the finished and rollin.


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## Jarod24 (Jul 27, 2015)

Awesome bike!


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## dodgerblue (Jul 28, 2015)

After spending some time trying to remove blue house paint to reveal nice original color I had NO such luck . After looing at many other posts of dif. bikes I thought the bare metal look would be cool . Rustjunkie ( Scott ) helped me get wheels right and even changed out rear cog to a 10 tooth . Thank you Scott . Bike rides so smooth . So I decided to add some more weight to carry around and added tank ,horn w/ bat., and rear carrier . Bike has about 50 miles on this setup . As much as i like bare metal look . I stay near the beach and even parking in garage I just can not keep darn surfice rust off . I cleared fenders . I sprayed w-d 40 on frame and other parts , but rust never sleeps . Or it just attacks when I do . Dont know whether to break it down and slap some paint or leave it bare metal . Michael / Dodgerblue


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## Jarod24 (Jul 28, 2015)

That's badass dude, maybe wipe it down with boiled linseed oil, could possibly help with your rust issue.


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## DonChristie (Jul 28, 2015)

Tough call, Michael! Looks cool the way it sits but she deserves some paint!


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## sleepy (Aug 3, 2015)

Jarod24 said:


> That's badass dude, maybe wipe it down with boiled linseed oil, could possibly help with your rust issue.




Indeed, boiled linseed oil is the way to go on bare metal. Was just reading a thread on the HAMB about guys using it on bare metal and/or heavily patina-ed vehicles.


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## dodgerblue (Aug 4, 2015)

sleepy said:


> Indeed, boiled linseed oil is the way to go on bare metal. Was just reading a thread on the HAMB about guys using it on bare metal and/or heavily patina-ed vehicles.




How often would need too reapply ?


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## Rivnut (Aug 10, 2015)

Eastwood company offers a Diamond Clear for bare metal.


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## rustjunkie (Aug 10, 2015)

I've used SculptNouveau metal waxes to seal patinated steel, brass, and bronze. I'd like to see how they work near the beach.

http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Results.cfm?category=7


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## THEGOLDENGREEK (Aug 10, 2015)

Look awesome!!


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## OldSkipTooth (Aug 11, 2015)

I have sprayed a coat of flat, no sheen, laquer on some metal parts with success, you never need to reapply.


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## dodgerblue (Aug 11, 2015)

Thanx for the compliments and good advice . I was actually going to BOIL some linseed oil . Then I saw stuff called "boiled linseed oil ". Felt like Homer Simpson at the orange k-mart. So it wasn't to much so I bought a can. I clear coated fenders before and they scratched really easy . Leaving an ugly mark . Bikes all broken down right now , and inside house. I'm woking on the wheels right now . I'll post updated pic's of progress . Michael / Dodgerblue...


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## dodgerblue (Aug 19, 2015)

Heres an update on Elgin wheels i'm working on . I have an extra hoop , and some spokes , so I decided to try an lace em up . I'm pretty sure I did one side right but when I flipped rim over and did other side it just doesn't look right . Spokes are really loose cause i'ts only practice . First attempt at im sure many more . Can anyone tell me what if anything i'm doing wrong ? Thank you . Michael / Dodgerblue ...


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## rustjunkie (Aug 19, 2015)

Looks like you've only gone 1-cross instead of 4 as should be correct, if your spokes are 10 5/8"


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## bikewhorder (Aug 19, 2015)

Bike looks great!  But yeah your wheel building is  way off. Just keep a built wheel close by and study it closely.


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## Evans200 (Aug 19, 2015)

I'm a patient man but I tried lacing once, and will never try again. Absolutely got the best of me and I couldn't wait to have the bike shop do it.


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## dodgerblue (Aug 19, 2015)

rustjunkie said:


> Looks like you've only gone 1-cross instead of 4 as should be correct, if your spokes are 10 5/8"




Yes , spokes are 10 5/8 " . Are you saying both sides are wrong ? Do I need to take all apart , start over ? Thanx alot ...


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## rollfaster (Aug 20, 2015)

I think it looks great. How did you get the metal to look so shiny and smooth? It's a great bike either way you go, but I've always been a sucker for bare metal bikes. It's a great alternative to paint. Many times when trying to remove layers of house paint only to find no OG paint underneath, I would strip the entire bike to bare metal. But it sucks when there's no OG paint left. Anyway, great bike you have there. Rob.


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## rustjunkie (Aug 20, 2015)

dodgerblue said:


> Yes , spokes are 10 5/8 " . Are you saying both sides are wrong ? Do I need to take all apart , start over ? Thanx alot ...




Looked again at the pic, does look like both sides are only crossed 1x.
Assuming that the first 2 steps (1: heads-out right flange, 2: heads-out left flange) are correct you should be able to take nipples off the heads-in spokes, rotate the hub forward, then choose any heads-in spoke and cross it over 4 heads-out and be back on track.


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## dodgerblue (Aug 26, 2015)

rustjunkie said:


> Looked again at the pic, does look like both sides are only crossed 1x.
> Assuming that the first 2 steps (1: heads-out right flange, 2: heads-out left flange) are correct you should be able to take nipples off the heads-in spokes, rotate the hub forward, then choose any heads-in spoke and cross it over 4 heads-out and be back on track.




I think I have it , after a couple more attempts . Yes I wasn't crossing 4 over . I compared with some built ups on another bike and they look just like other wheels . So if they are still wrong i'll never get it . Comments welcome .


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## rustjunkie (Aug 26, 2015)

never say never


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## dodgerblue (Sep 26, 2015)

Here are the wheels i'm putting together . I painted and added stripe . Cleaned and rebuilt hubs . Now if I can only lace em right ,first time around , so not to scratch em all up . I got my fingers crossed .


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## jd56 (Oct 2, 2015)

The bare metal looks great!
Great looking bike, and inspirational. 

It's all about the Rescue / Revival and of course the Tanklights!!

How did I run out of room so fast?

my FB page
https://m.facebook.com/antiquebikerescue


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## theterrym (Oct 2, 2015)

If you want to leave it with the bare metal look and not have rust issues you can try to clear coat the bike. its far more durable than linseed oil and even some cheap rattle can hardware store stuff would work. It would be best to use an adhesion promoter first.


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## azbug-i (Oct 8, 2015)

I really like the way this bike looks raw!


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## bikiba (Oct 8, 2015)

dodgerblue said:


> Since Im finally able to post pictures , will try to post updated flicks of work as I progress . This a bike I got from cabe member ( bikeworder ) about a year ago. It was about 75% of complete ride . I have almost everything needed to get on the finished and rollin.



I think i have the same bike or maybe an older brother. My tank doesnt have a horn in it, and i think i see a button on your tank. In the thread below one of the guys mentions he thinks mine is a '38, how did you determine the year on yours?
 
[url]http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?79798-Pre-War-Elgin
[/URL] 
I like the baremetal look too. very cool


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