# How do I remove a 2 piece crank?



## rustNspokes (Nov 6, 2010)

I'm working on a 30's-ish Iver Johnson with the two piece crank. I've managed to remove the end "nut" without completely mangling it but now I need to remove the crank arm. It sits upon a 3 sided taper. Unlike modern tapered crank arms, this one has no threads for a puller. There isn't much room for a 2 jaw puller which I fear is just going to make a mess of the spindle and arm. What is the correct way to remove these sort of crank arms?

Thank you.


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## twowheelfan (Nov 6, 2010)

i want to know as well. i am going to break down a pierce with the same type of crank. if you get any info outside of this thread would you please post or PM me?
Thanks.
Tim


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## bud poe (Nov 6, 2010)

I've got the same issue with my Iver (30's "rainbow" frame).  I'd love to learn the secret of these crank assemblies, please post any results and I'll ask around as well.
Thanks!


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## fat tire trader (Nov 7, 2010)

I just pulled two Iver frames out of my basement. On one frame, I removed the nur and the crank came off easily with no puller. On the other one, I pulled the nut off, bur the crank is stuck. My guess is that the fit of the tapers on these cranks is nit as tight as modern cotterless cranks, and should not need a puller, unless they have rusted, and not removed for 80 years. I will try to remove the stuck arm by soaking it with penetrating oil first, and if that doesn't work, I'll try heating the crank with a torch. 
chris ioakimedes
www.fattiretrading.com


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## rustNspokes (Nov 7, 2010)

Thanks. I'll let it soak for a while and see if that helps.


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## twowheelfan (Nov 7, 2010)

i haven't tried to pull my pierce yet. i'm going to wait until i am in a better place with parts andsuch before i try. i'm gonna wait until  the other parts that will be re-nickelled are ready to go. the less time that its in pieces the better.


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## catfish (Nov 7, 2010)

To quote Johnny Cash "one piece at a time".....


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## twowheelfan (Nov 7, 2010)

unfortunately, the next part of the lyrics don't apply! "and it didn't cost me a dime"


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## bud poe (Nov 7, 2010)

So, the crank arm should just pull off once the nut is removed?  Got mine soaking right now but I'm thinking I'm going to need to make a puller.  It almost looks like the crank arm threads onto the spindle but that can't be right.  I'll try the puller as soon as I make one and post my results...


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## DonChristie (Nov 7, 2010)

I could not get mine off either. Mine spins freely so I ride it.


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## ftwelder (Nov 9, 2010)

most tapers let go quickly with a little heat on the female side and a good wiggle


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## 66TigerCat (Nov 10, 2010)

To pull the non-drive crank on my Iver I used a puller that I found similar to this -  http://www.redrc.net/2008/03/eds-flywheel-puller-tool/  (though not as nice as that one).

It wasn't ideal but it was being rechromed anyway. You have to find one with tips that will sneak under the arm and clear the bottom bracket.


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## rustNspokes (Nov 10, 2010)

I managed to get the crank off with much fighting. The 2 jaw puller just messed up the threads on the crank and the nut. What I ended up doing was after alternating applications pb blaster and heat was making this crude tool. Its flat one one side, with ramps on the other. I wouldn't put it any where near a valuable bike, or one with nice plating but in my case of the stuck rusty mess of a crank it did the job.


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## DonChristie (Nov 11, 2010)

---Mcgruber!----


Nice! Necessity breeds innovation!


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## fat tire trader (Nov 11, 2010)

Bravo!!!!!


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