# 1937 Dayton Super Streamliner Questions



## Freqman1 (Jan 17, 2010)

Hey All,
    I bought Scott's SS and am going to restore this as a Dayton. One problem I'm having though is getting the chainguard to fit properly. I believe it is a Peter's repo but looks like the others I have seen on the web. The problem seems to be that the crank does not have enough offset in the dogleg to clear the guard. I shimmed the chainring out about 3/16" and this seems to help a lot but I still get contact from either the chain or guard depending on which way I move the guard. The dogleg appears to have about 1/2" of offset at the pedal. Did Huffman make cranks with more offset or is this a problem with the guard? With the shims and a little light trimming on the guard I could make this work but I don't want to do either. I have a lot more questions concerning this bike as far as headlight wire routing and finish of certain parts but first I need to make everything fit properly! Oh yeah and if anyone has the proper tornado spring (Mesinger streamline) seat or a speedometer set-up please let me know. v/r Shawn


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## Oldbikes (Jan 17, 2010)

*SS Parts...*

And, if you decide to put a "Putter" stem on it I have EXACT reproductions made from my original Dayton stem.  The Firestone and Dayton Putter stems are different, but I have both if you should decide to finish it as a Firestone!

Have fun!

Alan


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## Freqman1 (Jan 17, 2010)

Alan, 
   I have a repo putter stem. I don't know if it's one you made or not but appears to be brass with one "hash" mark which I believe is correct for the Dayton. Also, although catalogs show a Firestone with curved rear stays, everyone I've saw on the net has straight stays? In case I need another one of these what do they cost? v/r Shawn


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## Oldbikes (Jan 17, 2010)

*Stem...*

Hi Shawn, 

PM sent.


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## 37fleetwood (Jan 17, 2010)

hey Shawn, hey Alan,
Alan's Putters are rumored to be the best. I've never seen them but I've seen photos and they look great.
we need to find someone who has a real mesh guard and maybe someone who has a repop and see if they have the same problem.
I think the main reason these guards are so hard to find is that they were originally poorly thought out. when you copy a poor design it can turn out worse than the original.
I think you made the right choice between that guard and the one that worked better but isn't at all original but there is a cost.
now the fun starts, I hope you enjoy hunting the parts you'll need, as always I'll help as much as I can.


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## cyclonecoaster.com (Jan 18, 2010)

*You might try a different dogleg crank*

I had the same problem --- I have a early 1941 Monark that I finally had time to complete the once over on the bearings & hubs --- I was on the final pedal before the "maiden voyage" & I found out the original cranks were stripped (a lot of meat on the pedal) -- so I put on another dogleg I had sitting around --- profile was slightly "flatter" (there are a many different profiles for dogleg cranks) & it would rub the chain guard --- then I put a more aggressive dogleg crank arm & now the dogleg cranks once again clear my chain guard --- another thing I found on a old Schwinn Straightbar I had is that someone at one point replaced the bottom bracket bearing cups on it --- so when I went to put the cranks on the hit the frame (yes the frame was straight) -- I looked in my bucket of bottom bracket cups & noticed slight differences from cups out of different bicycles too -- good luck --- I hope that helps


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## Freqman1 (Jan 18, 2010)

Thanks,
    I would like to know from any of the Huffman experts out there if there were different cranks made. If I could find one with about 3/4" offset I'd probably be good. I personally think the crank (which has a "D" on it if that means anything) is the right one and suspect the guard is the problem. I emailed Dave Stromberger and if either Jerry Berg or Jerry Peters hit this board I would appreciate some info regarding the exact dimensions of the origianal guards. Do you guys with the crows beak guards on Twin Flexs have the same problem? If anyone has pictures of the original guards mounted that would be a big help particularly if taken from the top looking down so I can see the crank/chain clearance. Thanks, Shawn


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## Freqman1 (Jan 19, 2010)

Well after looking at every mesh guard I could find on the net and after talking to Dave Stromberger I think I've cracked the code on this one. Dave told me he had to put a spacer between the crank bearing and chainring which solved part of the problem. The other piece of the puzzle is the guard itself. All of the original bikes I looked at with the mesh guard had a significantly larger "notch" out of the guard than the repo. Although this would seem to seriously weaken the guard it should give the clearance I need and the guard is not a stressed part so as long as I'm careful this shouldn't be an issue. I would still like to hear from anyone with an original mesh guard so I can get the exact dimensions before I start with the cutting torch--just kidding!  v/r Shawn


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## VintageSchwinn.com (Jan 24, 2010)

Shawn, if you still need any additional photos of any part of the mesh guard, let me know.  I have an original one on a bike of mine, would be happy to photograph whatever you need.

Cheerz!

Aaron


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## Freqman1 (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks Aaron PM sent


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