# Pierce improved cushion 1904 or later



## filmonger (May 8, 2015)

I always like to Mock up my bikes when I first get them.... so here you go Ignore the wheel set - just there to give me an idea of what it will look like. in the process of building carbon insert Ghisallo Rims - just need to decide on what hubs to get for both rear and front. Also need a pair of period rat traps - though these pedals will do for a little while. Saddle will be a troxel or sager ... not a long spring but again will have to find that here on the cabe. The kelly's are a perfect fit and will be staying with the bike -right now I have just put a rubber washer in the fork gap - since I cannot fine a cone to fit the top of the headset. I think it will be nice - and it looks like it might be ridable once I have finished. Thanks Carlito's...!!! Will post better pics.


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## bricycle (May 8, 2015)

... I like to Mock my bikes too, but they alway's slap me across the face or worse!


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## tommydale1950 (May 8, 2015)

I have Pierce Buffalo head set parts , can you post a picture of what you need and I will look..Tom


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## filmonger (May 8, 2015)

Woooow perfect - it is on this thread ..... http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?73128-Pierce-Head-tube-races-question


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## carlitos60 (May 8, 2015)

Dude!!!!
It Looks Great;But, Are You Going to Paint It and Re-nickel the Fork and Crank Set??
FULL RESTO???

Also, I Think that the Seat I Sent You Looks Better than the Long Springs!!!
Sorry!!!:o

Good Luck!!!


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## tommydale1950 (May 8, 2015)

*Pierce head set*

is this what you need ?smaller is just race larger is threaded ...Tom


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## carlitos60 (May 8, 2015)

Those are Not It!

What he Needs is a Shallow Bearing Cup that Fits Completely Under the Screw-In Top Piece that Looks Like a Dome!!!!
The one From My SNELL Screws In and is Barely 1/4" Thick, and Holds the Loose Bearings Only!  The Diameter Was Too Small though, I Tried It!!!

I'll Try to Post a Pic Tomorrow!  This Won't Let Me Post It!!!


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## filmonger (May 9, 2015)

Thank you very very much for taking the time to do this!!!! .....I think it might work......I'll try it and see....let me know what you want for it.

Carlitos - I just put the long spring on to see what it looked like and I agree it takes away the clean lines of the bike - I just want a simple two or three coil spring Troxel or Sager. I sold one to Bri.....that would have been perfect - never fails.  There was a nice Sager in the for sale section that went in seconds - so I will just have to bid my time.


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## tommydale1950 (May 9, 2015)

I have other pieces , I am just not sure what to look for .Is it threaded?  or is the small race I have pictured what you need? does it fit inside the frame itself? I will take more pictures of what I have...Tom


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## tommydale1950 (May 9, 2015)

*Pierce part*

Pierce race, this is the only other part I have for Pierce besides bearings. This part fits inside the head tube , could this be the part you need ?


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## carlitos60 (May 9, 2015)

tommydale1950 said:


> Pierce race, this is the only other part I have for Pierce besides bearings. This part fits inside the head tube , could this be the part you need ?




That Would Work!!!!!
Must Use the Small Bearing Cage for Clearance, or Loose Ones!!!!

Great Job tommydale1950!
I'll Post the Other Option Too!!!


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## filmonger (May 9, 2015)

Yes I think that is it..... the issue is keeping the fork in line - Hence the fork tube fitting and being held in place on the head tube. At the moment I have squeezed a round rubber washer in the space between the fork tube and the head tube keeping it in place - this allows the caged bearings to sit on the top of the head tube rather than the races that should be there - with the fork being held in place by the rubber washer. Soooo I am guessing this is the correct piece. This should allow the fork tube to sit correctly and provide the races required. I pulled the top races on an old raleigh as the races seemed to work when I put the cap over it- but it ( as it also sits in the tube ) did not fit...the races would go over the threads of the fork tube but would not fit over the tube itself....so alas did not work. Fingers crossed this should do the job. In fact I am fairly sure this is the right part!!! - aww and Carlto's agrees......cool!


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## tommydale1950 (May 9, 2015)

*Pierce race*

I just went back thru my bearings and found what you are looking for . I mocked it up on my mans Pierce and fits like a glove. The race is a little worn but with the fit and grease should work fine, pictures to follow. What I will do is send you both pieces and you decide which to use, , but the larger one did not fit as well as the smaller one. Send me your info and I will get them out on monday. We can square up later but should be under 200 dollars ..just kidding n/c  as I may need something down the road ..Tom ps I also have some sager seat parts...


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## filmonger (May 9, 2015)

Cool will do!


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## filmonger (Jan 7, 2016)

Considering some Metal clad ( Orig wood effect ) Iver Rims that I bought from bri for this one - just not sure if it is a good fit ( look ) for the bike. Thanks to Dean for the Buffalo badge that will soon adorn the bike as it would have in the day.  If I use these rims - do you think I should go with Deans or use another modern solution? I also might get the head race copied at a machine shop - before I do any real riding on her but what I rev'd from Tommydale will keep her alive and well. Still not sure what Rat traps to try a put on her. Did Pierce have a specific brand they used at this time period?


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## filmonger (Jan 9, 2016)

The Pierce is 9o percent there..........so here is what I have decided to do for the moment....I have put Modern running gear on her - Black ( gold pinstripe ) Westfield Rims with a Velosteel kickback hub, Classic-Cycle.de white tires. Looks much better with the black rims. I have another pair of black Westfields that I will string with a Morrow hub and a period front hub or possibly I will use my carbon insert wood rims ( not sure ). 

It was a bitch getting the front hub on the springer fork. Also a small issue with the lock washer on the top of the fork head tube..as the fork is so short I cannot get the lock washer on and be able to screw on the final fork nut. It will not fit if the lock washer is on. It is a little thick so maybe I can find a thinner one - though, I am not sure this will do the job.

Now - i just need to find a dust cap and skip tooth cog for the Velosteel hub....a chain ( though I think I have a few sitting around ) and put the buffalo badge on when I get her. Might need to find some head badge screws as well. Oh - fix the fork lock washer and get some grips. Might still change the seat too? Possibly some period -rat traps as well.


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## Cdollar4 (Jan 9, 2016)

Your bike is the complete package. Full suspension, kelly bars. That is 40lbs of complete awesomeness.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## tommydale1950 (Jan 9, 2016)

*Pierce*

Will, Looks great,glad I could help ..Tom


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## barracuda (Jan 9, 2016)

Those Torrington #7's look good on any road bike.


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## willswares1220 (Jan 9, 2016)

Maybe, you could search for an original Christy saddle to complete it. That would definitely, help set the bike off!

She's coming along quite nicely already, though!


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## Sped Man (Jul 24, 2016)

Congrats on finishing it. How does it ride? Does the rear suspension bottom out when you hit a pot hole? Are those front forks designed for someone, who weighs 200 Ibs or more? Just curious. I was thinking of buying one but they are usually located thousands of miles away from my home. I would hate to buy something that I can't ride. Is there anything one has to look out for when buying one of these?


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## Freqman1 (Jul 24, 2016)

I have ridden mine and its a little bouncy but nothing bottoms out--but I only go a buck seventy. As you can see from this post buying one of these needing any pieces is not the way to go if you want to save some frustrations and $$$. Buy a complete, correct bike to start with. V/r Shawn


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## Sped Man (Jul 24, 2016)

Freqman1 said:


> I have ridden mine and its a little bouncy but nothing bottoms out--but I only go a buck seventy. As you can see from this post buying one of these needing any pieces is not the way to go if you want to save some frustrations and $$$. Buy a complete, correct bike to start with. V/r Shawn



I agree, piecing one together is a headache and very expensive thing to do. That rear shock worries me. I would hate to have it bottom out on me every time I hit a pot hole. I live in shicago where there is a pot hole very 6 inches. Killer pot holes every other block. Those are pot holes where you go in but don't come out.  Is the rear suspension adjustable?


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## Wcben (Jul 24, 2016)

Could you post a good close up of the rear cushion?


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## Freqman1 (Jul 25, 2016)

This is the only pic I have on this computer. Same design as used on many TOC bikes for rear suspension. I have never tried to adjust it. Re: potholes I'd be much more worried about busting a wood rim than the suspension on one of these. V/r Shawn


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## Wcben (Jul 25, 2016)

Cool, thanks internaly there are some differences, I was curious if it was a Pierce "Double Flexible"...


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## PJ55 (Jul 25, 2016)

On page 29 of the 1899 Pierce catalog is a listing of 6 different spring rates available upon ordering your Pierce bicycle. My experience has been that the springs are always broken when I find a bike.


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## Freqman1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Wcben said:


> Cool, thanks internaly there are some differences, I was curious if it was a Pierce "Double Flexible"...



My bike is like the one shown as the subject of this post with the spring fork and shock absorber rear. V/r Shawn


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