# '36 Schwinn Double (curved) Bar Roadster



## Eddie_Boy

First, a Happy New Years to the CABE family. Glad to be part of this community.

A big thanks to Paul @rustyjones for selling this old girl to me. Great experience dealing with Paul; super cool member here. Received her not long ago and been working on her a little at a time. I’m calling my latest mini project a ’36 Schwinn Double (curved) Bar Roadster. What drawn me to this bike was this particular Schwinn model. I have always dug these bikes; you just don’t find many around for sale. Secondly, I love the “as found” look in black, in her original condition. The plan is to keep her uncleaned, trying to stay as original as I can, but clean and redo all the mechanicals so she rides nice. Talking with Paul, and though I like the consistent crusty look of the wheels on this old girl, they were rotted. Could I have used them? Probably, but I want straight wheels for the nice ride ability.  She will become my most used old bike.  The crank was badly bent which caused a slight rub on the drive side chain stay, so the wheels and crank stayed in Mass. Paul offered the much covered in old grease and dirt original front and rear ND hubs, so I those came with me. Frame and fork was in tact; this is what she looked like after I unpacked her.


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## SKIDKINGSVBC

Awesome bike..If I didn't have one (have had my37 since 2006) I would have bought that one..They are excellent riders..Great score!


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## rustyjones

Thanks for the kind words Eddie, this bike couldn't have ended up with a nicer guy. I'm so glad you are the new caretaker of this special bike. I know it's in the right hands now, and hopefully you'll be able to give it all the love it deserves. Please post progress pics!!


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## tacochris

rustyjones said:


> Thanks for the kind words Eddie, this bike couldn't have ended up with a nicer guy. I'm so glad you are the new caretaker of this special bike. I know it's in the right hands now, and hopefully you'll be able to give it all the love it deserves. Please post progress pics!!



Eddie is always the best person to step in as the caretaker of any old bike thats for sure.  I have no doubt it will see more quality miles than it ever has.


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## Eddie_Boy

rustyjones said:


> Thanks for the kind words Eddie, this bike couldn't have ended up with a nicer guy. I'm so glad you are the new caretaker of this special bike. I know it's in the right hands now, and hopefully you'll be able to give it all the love it deserves. Please post progress pics!!



Thanks Paul @rustyjones. More pics are coming.


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## Eddie_Boy

tacochris said:


> Eddie is always the best person to step in as the caretaker of any old bike thats for sure.  I have no doubt it will see more quality miles than it ever has.



Thanks Chris @tacochris for that.  Speaking of "save old tires" I scored a really nice Carlisle WW Lightning Darts not long ago from a local bike shop just 2 miles from home.  Very lightly used; still had the center rubber flashes on the tread.  Put them on my other old bike, and they actually ride pretty good for older tires; I like these older dart tires. Came with the Carlisle tubes too.


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## Eddie_Boy

Took a slight risk with this girl being that this bent Wald 3 stem was stuck. I’ve heard horror stories of over tightening these stems, which could damage the fork steering tube, hence an expensive fork repair or in search of one, a one year only straight back locking fork in original black. Didn't matter; she's a DcurvedBR.  When I got her, the stem was twisted to the right. Unloosened the fork crown nut a bit and the upper headset race and applied more penetrating oil. I did this for at least a couple days. Couldn’t wait anymore; wanted to get that stem off. On the 3rd, day, I went for it a little at a time and throughout the day. Kept applying the penetrating oil and carefully, so not to get on the frame. Didn’t want to change any of that uncleaned finish from the dirt and grime on the head tube. 😄 Busted the stem bolt, which is fine. I knew it was going to happen; you can feel it. After banging side to side and up with a rubber mallet, I was able to free the stem. What a relief.

















Forgot to mention, since the stem bolt snapped, the barrel was still lodged. Sprayed more penetrating oil inside the stem. Got me a 5” long bolt, and tapped away until the bottom stem wedge dislodged.


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## tacochris

Mabuhay said:


> Thanks Chris @tacochris for that.  Speaking of "save old tires" I scored a really nice Carlisle WW Lightning Darts not long ago from a local bike shop just 2 miles from home.  Very lightly used; still had the center rubber flashes on the tread.  Put them on my other old bike, and they actually ride pretty good for older tires; I like these older dart tires. Came with the Carlisle tubes too.
> 
> View attachment 1541001
> 
> View attachment 1541002
> 
> View attachment 1541003
> 
> View attachment 1541004



My man!  Old tires are where its at!  I dont run vintage tubes though but i save em all . Hard to stomach throwing away history.


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## Eddie_Boy

Good and bad news. No damage to the fork steering tube from the Wald #3 stem bolt wedge. Bottom race was flush all around fork shoulder, so very good news there. Bad news, alignment of steering tube was off.  Resolved that with a portable floor jack handle that fit almost perfectly inside the steering head tube, placed in a monster vice, and one quick tug, didn’t take much, and fork was straight again. Super stoked.  With a bit of nervousness, it was that simple and able to use original fork without repairing.


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## Eddie_Boy

Keeping with the original patina theme, going to use her original crusty old pedals. Left pedal spindle is very slightly bent, but not too bad. Right is good. Soaked in Penetrating oil for several days applying multiple times a day. 2 out of the four bolts were loose, but the other two nuts were stubborn. Didn’t want to snap the block shafts, so stayed patient and kept applying PO.


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## Kickstand3

Nice project love mine


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## Eddie_Boy

Kickstand3 said:


> Nice project love mine



Kickstand3, what year?  Please share a picture. Would love to see it.


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## Eddie_Boy

Though the locking fork did come with an AS original key, it was not the same number as the tumbler, AN60, wouldn’t turn. Called Tyler @mr.cycleplane about the locking fork. “Bring it up,” he said. “We can remove the fork plug and take a look inside.” I have since ordered and received the keys from Wes @WES PINCHOT. Thank you Wes. With the newly cut key, I was able to turn just a tad and it took a lot of effort to do so. Didn’t force it, so I sprayed a little WD40 in the key hole and in the chamber. I let it soak overnight. Tried again the next morning, I was able to turn the tumbler even more but not yet all the way. Kept doing this throughout the day, and eventually, I was able to turn the tumbler all the way to lock position and back. Awesome and another good news with this old girl. The more I sprayed WD, progressively easier to turn. 

Here's the best news about this.  Tyler sent me an email with a picture earlier that morning.  He had found an original aluminum AS Yale key number AN60, the same number as the tumbler. What are the chances?  Then we traded original AS keys. Crazy cool. Thank you Tyler.


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## Eddie_Boy

Concentrated on these old pedals. They came with this old girl, and so I will use them. After several days of soaking in PO, I was able to loosen and remove the last two nuts. Play is very slight, so it’s not bad at all. Removed all the crud using parts cleaner and just on the bearings, no heavy wipe down of the pedal parts.

















New white lithium grease for the bearings and assembled. These pedals may not look all that great, but they actually spin pretty well, better than I thought. Happy with the results.


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## Kickstand3

Mabuhay said:


> Kickstand3, what year?  Please share a picture. Would love to see it.



38 Tall Frame DBR


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## Jon Olson

I have a 1936/7 (W08290) it is one of my favorite bikes to ride. They feel strong but smooth going down the road. 
You’ll have fun!
Jon


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## Livmojoe

Good stuff Eddie, and congrats on the "new" bike.  Keep the restoration pics coming.


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## GTs58

If you haven't already, soak that key cylinder in Mineral Spirits or good solvent and clean out all that WaterDisplacement-40 and gunk. 









						Somewhat New WD-40 Product | Bicycle Restoration Tips
					

WD-40's Specialist Rust Release Penetrant  Has anyone tried this stuff out yet? I picked up a can of the regular D-40 and this came with it as a two pack deal. Seems the new owners of WD-40 are going to town with all the new products. I have only used this once, and not for getting rusty parts...




					thecabe.com


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## SirMike1983

The double bar roadster is my probably my favorite balloon tire frame type. It's a very clean design and it is a good rider. My one remaining ballooner is my grandfather's 1936 Henderson double bar roadster. I need to clean and re-grease the bearings this coming spring. I also have some better tires for it.


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## Eddie_Boy

Kickstand3 said:


> 38 Tall Frame DBR
> 
> View attachment 1542502



Love that blue color.  Killer DBR.


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## Eddie_Boy

Jon Olson said:


> I have a 1936/7 (W08290) it is one of my favorite bikes to ride. They feel strong but smooth going down the road.
> You’ll have fun!
> Jon



Let's see your DBR Jon.


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## Eddie_Boy

Livmojoe said:


> Good stuff Eddie, and congrats on the "new" bike.  Keep the restoration pics coming.



Thanks John.  Will do.


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## Eddie_Boy

GTs58 said:


> If you haven't already, soak that key cylinder in Mineral Spirits or good solvent and clean out all that WaterDisplacement-40 and gunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somewhat New WD-40 Product | Bicycle Restoration Tips
> 
> 
> WD-40's Specialist Rust Release Penetrant  Has anyone tried this stuff out yet? I picked up a can of the regular D-40 and this came with it as a two pack deal. Seems the new owners of WD-40 are going to town with all the new products. I have only used this once, and not for getting rusty parts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thecabe.com



GTs58, thanks for sharing this.  I learned something today.


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## Eddie_Boy

As stated earlier, the original wheels were left behind asking myself, “What are you going to do for wheels.” @rustyjones did send me the original hubs. I would have liked to use these again and build around them, but it would have taken a lot longer to ride her for the first time. Maybe down the road, I could use these again. For now, I’ll just set these aside. I do like the nickel finish of the original ND front hub. 






I didn’t have a wheel set to use right away. Earlier this year, I picked up a prewar ’37. The entire rear wheel was painted, rims, spokes and even the rear hub. Why? Not sure. Painted erratically it seems, maybe done to protect the wheel from further rusting. That’s how bad the paint result was. The goal was to see what kind of condition this wheel was underneath. Pictures of the wheel before.





















So the process of removing the paint began. Couple of applications of Aircraft paint remover and a stiff brush and these are the results


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## Jon Olson

Here are the pictures you asked for. I cleaned it up but left most of the “in the day” rust and “stickers”!














The drop stand and rack are from a girl’s 1936 Schwinn. And the fork is correct for this bicycle.


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## Eddie_Boy

Jon Olson said:


> Here are the pictures you asked for. I cleaned it up but left most of the “in the day” rust and “stickers”!View attachment 1543250
> View attachment 1543251
> 
> View attachment 1543252
> 
> View attachment 1543253
> 
> The drop stand and rack are from a girl’s 1936 Schwinn. And the fork is correct for this bicycle.



Thanks for sharing Jon.  I plan to use a drop stand on our '36 as well.


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## Eddie_Boy

After removing the paint, looks like the hoop’s patina will match another wheel that I had already. The matching rear wheel came from another prewar ‘37 with a G3 stamped Morrow coaster. Last year, this wheel has since been overhauled assisted by our friend Tyler @mr.cycleplane . Thank you Tyler. So it was time to break down the once painted rear wheel, and convert it to a front wheel. But first, soaked the nips with PO overnight.  Very fortunate I was able to loosen and break down the wheel and save all the spokes and nips.

















Planning to use this nickeled ND W front hub for the front wheel build.


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## jesus

Mabuhay said:


> First, a Happy New Years to the CABE family. Glad to be part of this community.
> 
> A big thanks to Paul @rustyjones for selling this old girl to me. Great experience dealing with Paul; super cool member here. Received her not long ago and been working on her a little at a time. I’m calling my latest mini project a ’36 Schwinn Double (curved) Bar Roadster. What drawn me to this bike was this particular Schwinn model. I have always dug these bikes; you just don’t find many around for sale. Secondly, I love the “as found” look in black, in her original condition. The plan is to keep her uncleaned, trying to stay as original as I can, but clean and redo all the mechanicals so she rides nice. Talking with Paul, and though I like the consistent crusty look of the wheels on this old girl, they were rotted. Could I have used them? Probably, but I want straight wheels for the nice ride ability.  She will become my most used old bike.  The crank was badly bent which caused a slight rub on the drive side chain stay, so the wheels and crank stayed in Mass. Paul offered the much covered in old grease and dirt original front and rear ND hubs, so I those came with me. Frame and fork was in tact; this is what she looked like after I unpacked her.
> 
> View attachment 1540478
> 
> View attachment 1540485



What a great looking bike !!!


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## Eddie_Boy

jesus said:


> What a great looking bike !!!



Thanks @jesus, she will be.  She's coming along nicely.


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## Eddie_Boy

After cleaning the entire wheel, cleaned and greased the front hub, the front wheel was laced and trued. Gary Quail from Santa Cruz, came up and spent a few hours with me and my family.  Gary and I worked on several wheels that afternoon.  Mr. Quail is so passionate about anything to do with wheels and it’s components. Like @mr.cycleplane said, he is truly a wheel building master; awesome for me to see him do his craft.  The tires are the old Carlisle Lightning Darts that Paul @rustyjones included. I like the look of the very used tires on this project; looks like they belong on this old girl, so I will use them for now. With both wheels straight and true, overhauled front and rear Morrow coaster, this old girl is going to ride pretty nice I think.  Overall very happy with this matching wheelset for our ’36 Schwinn.













This was a few months ago.  Gary truing the actual rear wheel from my '37 prewar that I'll use on this '36.  While truing, one spoke snapped, then another, then another.  After that, we both agreed to have all the spokes replaced, so Gary brought the wheelset back to Santa Cruz.


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## rustyjones

Those wheels look perfect for that bike Eddie!


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## Eddie_Boy

rustyjones said:


> Those wheels look perfect for that bike Eddie!



Thanks Paul. Next to the frame, the look of the completed wheels with the old lightning dart tires is better than I thought. She’s coming together.


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## markivpedalpusher

Mabuhay said:


> After cleaning the entire wheel, cleaned and greased the front hub, the front wheel was laced and trued. Gary Quail from Santa Cruz, came up and spent a few hours with me and my family.  Gary and I worked on several wheels that afternoon.  Mr. Quail is so passionate about anything to do with wheels and it’s components. Like @mr.cycleplane said, he is truly a wheel building master; awesome for me to see him do his craft.  The tires are the old Carlisle Lightning Darts that Paul @rustyjones included. I like the look of the very used tires on this project; looks like they belong on this old girl, so I will use them for now. With both wheels straight and true, overhauled front and rear Morrow coaster, this old girl is going to ride pretty nice I think.  Overall very happy with this matching wheelset for our ’36 Schwinn.
> 
> View attachment 1546404
> 
> View attachment 1546405
> 
> View attachment 1546406
> 
> This was a few months ago.  Gary truing the actual rear wheel from my '37 prewar that I'll use on this '36.  While truing, one spoke snapped, then another, then another.  After that, we both agreed to have all the spokes replaced, so Gary brought the wheelset back to Santa Cruz.
> View attachment 1546415



Awesome ! Have truing stand will travel - well done


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## RustyHornet

I love this. Great job! Someday I will find one of these frames.


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## Eddie_Boy

RustyHornet said:


> I love this. Great job! Someday I will find one of these frames.



Thanks @RustyHornet.  I sure hope you do.


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## Eddie_Boy

When I initially removed the front fork, bearing cases were shot. Who came through for me again? @mr.cycleplane gave me these additional headset bearing cases not long ago. Thank you Tyler.










This was the original crank ring. I insisted to @rustyjones that I wanted that ring, intended to use “as is” uncleaned. So when it was time to setup the crankset, further inspection found bent in one area and dished, no longer flat. Plus the teeth were starting to become shark fins, so this ring will be placed hanging on my fence.





When I updated my ’37 prewar with a nicer and cleaner sweetheart crankset, offered and purchased from who else…@mr.cycleplane, I still had the original '37 stamped crank and ring available. Tried to give this crankset away at the @JAF/CO meet back in October. Not one person inquired then, so fortunately for me, I still had it. I almost placed it in the free pile at the end of the meet. My wife even said, “What about this, want to give this away?" Thought about it, and well you know the rest of the story. It’s almost perfect for this project. The crank fit the bill with some chrome loss on the crank ring.


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## Eddie_Boy

I knew the fenders needed a lot of work just to make them decent. I had asked around locally, but no luck in finding a person who could roll out the fenders. Then Gary’s name came up. Thanks to @rustyjones, Paul rushed to ship the first of two boxes, the fenders and smalls first. The reason, so I can get the fenders before our weekend getaway trip to Monterey, CA. Before our trip, made arrangement with Gary. In preparation, drilled out the rivets and removed the fender braces. Then spent some time straightening out the flat braces. After a 2 ½ hour drive the next morning , arrived at Gary’s place. What a treat to see his cool vintage bikes. Impressive prewar collection of Schwinn and Shelby bikes.  Didn’t want them to be perfectly straight, she’s a beater and rider, so Gary casually went to work and rolling out the fenders. . Gary quickly grinded the heads of the new rivets so I can give them a patina look. Helped Gary rivet the braces in place, and we were done, well with that set anyway. A quick work on the tails of another prewar fenders and then we called it good. So a shout out and a big huge thanks to our friend @PlasticNerd for his time on a Sunday mid-morning for my wife and me. Thank you so much Gary. You rock.


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## Eddie_Boy

I’m ready to take her on my first Schwinn DBR ride. Mounted another Wald #3 but straight stem. For my first ride, decided on the patina’ d Torrington 26” wide handlebars, and because it came with her initially. The only decent and very used old matching set were these finger grips, that came from another prewar ’37 Schwinn.  Worked out, since one of the original finger grips was not in the best of shape.













I believe we have a name for this old girl. After I was done working on her, I had brought her in our back 3rd room, our office. That way I can look at her while I’m working. My wife comes in, and says, “What’s that smell?” “Probably the old dirt and grease that is still on the bike and I had just lightly lubed the chain,” I replied.  After she closely looked at the bike as she is uncleaned, which barely fit in the room, and just enough to walk by, she says “Cochina.” “That's right, just the way I like her," I replied.  "Cochina, hmmmm I like that.”  That’s what we will name our ’36 Schwinn DBR.  "Cochina" in Spanish means filthy or dirty girl, perfect name for this old girl.


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## ballooney

Looking good Eddie!  Well done.  Thanks for sharing the journey and have a great shakedown ride.


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## rustyjones

She came together very nicely Eddie! Love the name!!


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## Maskadeo

Nice work! My lady says the same thing about my bike room. She says it smells, but I just don’t even notice it anymore and I consider it a nice spouse repellent!  😛


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## Eddie_Boy

ballooney said:


> Looking good Eddie!  Well done.  Thanks for sharing the journey and have a great shakedown ride.



Thanks Steve.  I had fun sharing Cochina's journey.


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## Eddie_Boy

rustyjones said:


> She came together very nicely Eddie! Love the name!!



Paul, my wife is half Mexican; that word is so familiar. 😉


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## Eddie_Boy

Maskadeo said:


> Nice work! My lady says the same thing about my bike room. She says it smells, but I just don’t even notice it anymore and I consider it a nice spouse repellent!  😛



How nice it would be to actually have a bike room, just a few bikes in couple of rooms of our home.  My wife would not like the idea of Cochina hanging in the house.


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## Eddie_Boy

Love Cochina even more. After a lunch run with the Mrs. to our downtown, what incredible fun. I now know why DBR owners love these bikes; they really do ride well. I’m so thankful Paul @rustyjones sold me this DBR and stoked to have her.  More to come.  BTW, the crank ring sticks out like a sore thumb.  I need to find one not so shiny.


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## rustyjones

And I love how that lock will stay in it's timeless embrace with that seat...


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## Eddie_Boy

rustyjones said:


> And I love how that lock will stay in it's timeless embrace with that seat...



Paul, as long as I have this old girl, "Cochina", her saddle with the Yale lock will always stay together.


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## Eddie_Boy

To have a chain guard on this ’36 DBR or not?  I debated that for a while.

Yeah, she’s a narrow fender DBR, so more than likely didn’t come with one. I decided I wanted one anyway. The first person I asked, our friend @bobcycles. BobU has come through for me a few times with smalls prior. I asked Bob if he had any prewar hockey stick guards for our straight down tube Cochina. Didn’t have to be in great shape knowing it’s going on this old girl. After a few days, he sent me pictures of this one. Wanted to see the crank rub damage more closely, so Bob removed the paint from the area. Delighted to see the original chrome under the white paint. I wanted a patina’ d chrome hockey stick anyway. “It’s perfect,” I told Bob. “I’ll take it.” The guard was complete too with original and undamaged brackets and hardware. I’m stoked.





Removing the white paint from the guard. Took around 3-4 applications of paint removal, and look what was under. Ecstatic to see the aged chrome underneath.





Hockey stick guard after paint removed.





After giving it a little more patina, this is how the guard turned out. Glad I decided to get a guard; I like added hockey stick guard look on Cochina. Thanks again Bob for coming through for me again.


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## Eddie_Boy

This DBR originally had a drop stand. Unfortunately, she didn’t come with one and a fender clip.  As @tacochris would attest, I’ve always liked the drop stands on old balloon bikes. I have one on my ’37 Rollfast Motobike Sport, and love that feature. Didn’t have a prewar Schwinn at the time, but middle of last year, I asked BobU if he had any Schwinn drop stands. Why? I just wanted one; I suppose in case I found a prewar Schwinn. So Bob sent me a black painted Schwinn stand with Schwinn clip. Thank you @bobcycles. Now that I have a use for it, I removed the old black paint. No longer in silver cad color, more surface rust and age, it’s perfect for Cochina.


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## Eddie_Boy

It was time to address the damaged tail of the rear fender. I decided to dock the the rear fender tail. You’ve seen this many times, a fender tear from years of the drop stand when up. There is constant pressure placed on the prewar thin metal. Made a template from another Schwinn short and narrow rear fender and transferred to Cochina’s.  I didn’t want to make the fender as narrow at the point as the original shape; the idea was to keep as much metal yet still give it that refined profile. More on this later.


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## Eddie_Boy

Drop stand is on. I don’t have a correct prewar Schwinn reflector, so decided on this reflector and badge. Thanks @tacochris. I just thought it looked better than just a reflector all by itself. Plus where the reflector is located now gave the fender the added length as original and the fender clip less exposed. I like the look of a drop stand on this old girl. It’s cool, and I’m stoked to have one.

What I do notice though is that with Cochina and her drop stand, she is barely off the ground. Can’t tell by the picture, but the back wheel still turns freely when the drop stand is down. Compared to our ’37 Rollfast, she sits up higher when stand is down. Talking to @mr.cycleplane, the early versions were this way. Probably the incorrect version, but I’m okay with it. Just glad to have a Schwinn stand. I’ll figure it out later; I have some ideas and will make it better.


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## Eddie_Boy

While I was looking at the newly mounted drop stand, I noticed something and wanted to make a change.













Decided to change the drop stand position.  When the stand is up, the horizontal line of the stand sagged a bit; it wasn’t in line with the rear chain stay.  I’ve seen in the catalogs, that some are this way.  Removed the chain guard for a better look.  Thinking to myself, how it would look better if the drop stand was in line with the lines of the chain stay.  So I took a Wald fender clip, and drilled a second hole.  The idea is to raise the clip higher hence raising the drop stand at the tail when up. Maybe it was a good idea and another reason to dock the tail length of the rear fender anyway.

Before



After



Before



After...much better




While I was at it, I was thinking of the constant pressure of the fender caused by the drop stand when up.  For some reason this drop stand sits behind the fender when the drop stand is positioned in the clip.   I wanted to strengthen the fender tail.  The idea was to reinforce where the clip would go.  So I took an old chrome fender, and shaped it to the newly docked rear fender tail.  I didn’t want the fender to tear again, so hopefully this will prevent from that happening again.  After all said and done, looks much better to me now all aligned.  What do you think?  Now just have to figure how I’m going to get the rear of Cochina up higher when the stand is down, but that’s for another time.


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## Eddie_Boy

This will be my final update on this thread.

There were three things I wanted to do before I call her good. First, I wanted to position the rear wheel in closer. It was important to me that the rear wheel is centered within the fender opening. Trying to get the right fit, I ended up using a different chain, removing a link on one or adding a link on another, I was able to bring the rear wheel in, centering the wheel properly. No more gaps.  Soaked the chain overnight with degreaser, cleaned thoroughly, and lubed.

Second, correcting the drop stand position. My last visit with @mr.cycleplane, I wanted to see how the drop stands on his prewar Schwinn bikes were setup. On Tyler's prewar Schwinn double diamond, I noticed how the lines of the drop stand was in line with the top vertical fender brace. "What a good look." I told Tyler. "I love it." I definitely wanted to replicate that look on Cochina. And after some minor adjustment without any modifications, the stand is now in line. Also by doing this, the rear wheel sits higher off the ground. I think it looks so much better now, wheel centered and drop stand lined up.

As you can see, the rear wheel is not centered




Picture of Tyler's correct drop stand position on his '35 Schwinn DD




First time I setup the drop stand (before)




Rear wheel now centered and correct drop stand position (after)




And lastly, decided to change the handlebar. CABEr and friend offered me a very patina' d killer wide 30” Torrington steer horn bars, thinking this is an excellent match. I’m such a big fan of wide bars, no different from my other vintage riders. Removed the original 26" Torrington bars and mounted these; matched perfectly I'd say.  So a big thanks to @ballooney. Thank you Steve.  And by the way, had to raise the bars up a bit. On these first year straight back cycle locks in '36, one needs to turn the bars almost 90 degrees to engage the lock. Well with these wide bars, had to raise to clear the seat. Worked out anyway; the position is where I wanted.









Still looking for the correct "footed" Schwinn head badge.  Using this Excelsior badge as a temporary place holder.








I’d say this Cochina project is done.

I’ve done a few old bike projects, but for some reason, this one was more fun for me. Maybe it’s because the project went without any complications, or maybe it’s because of how she looks, uncleaned, not shiny, no worry, and lastly the “as is” condition look. She’s like our “Sissy”, my old ’54 Chevy 3100. I foresee this old girl, this ’36 Schwinn DBR, will become my new favorite rider. So fun.

I want to thank our friends here, those who were a part of this project. Paul @rustyjones, Tyler, mr.cycleplane, Gary Quail, master wheel builder, Gary, @PlasticNerd, Bob, @bobcycles, and lastly, Steve @ballooney.  Thank you gentlemen for your contribution and help making this project so fun for me.  Eddie





A friend mentioned prior picture is too dark.  Adding this one.  Better lighting.


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## mr.cycleplane

Lotta work in this bike-and still more to go? This thread is one of the most thorough projects in this forum I have seen. Fantastic! I always say that each bike presents its own challenge and I am sure Eddie as learned much and others watching this thread can take away a few pointers and avoid a few stumbling blocks! Nice work Eddie-enjoy the ride!


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## RustyHornet

Everything you’ve done on this one has been absolutely perfect! Nice work! Bike looks killer and everything you’ve changed has perfect meaning and functionality!


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## rustyjones

Love the end result Eddie. Now I know for sure she's in the right hands. Well done!


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## Eddie_Boy

mr.cycleplane said:


> Lotta work in this bike-and still more to go? This thread is one of the most thorough projects in this forum I have seen. Fantastic! I always say that each bike presents its own challenge and I am sure Eddie as learned much and others watching this thread can take away a few pointers and avoid a few stumbling blocks! Nice work Eddie-enjoy the ride!



I enjoyed sharing this project with the community.  Thanks Tyler for all the help you have given me on this old girl.


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## Eddie_Boy

RustyHornet said:


> Everything you’ve done on this one has been absolutely perfect! Nice work! Bike looks killer and everything you’ve changed has perfect meaning and functionality!



Appreciate this RustyHornet.  Thanks.


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## Eddie_Boy

rustyjones said:


> Love the end result Eddie. Now I know for sure she's in the right hands. Well done!



Paul, I'm in love with this old girl.  Thank you again brother for making it happen.


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## razinhellcustomz

Mabuhay said:


> Love Cochina even more. After a lunch run with the Mrs. to our downtown, what incredible fun. I now know why DBR owners love these bikes; they really do ride well. I’m so thankful Paul @rustyjones sold me this DBR and stoked to have her.  More to come.  BTW, the crank ring sticks out like a sore thumb.  I need to find one not so shiny.
> 
> View attachment 1548983



Just throw a feather guard on it and they'll never  know the difference.. RideOn.. Razin..


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## jesus

Mabuhay said:


> I’m ready to take her on my first Schwinn DBR ride. Mounted another Wald #3 but straight stem. For my first ride, decided on the patina’ d Torrington 26” wide handlebars, and because it came with her initially. The only decent and very used old matching set were these finger grips, that came from another prewar ’37 Schwinn.  Worked out, since one of the original finger grips was not in the best of shape.
> 
> View attachment 1548677
> 
> View attachment 1548678
> 
> View attachment 1548679
> 
> I believe we have a name for this old girl. After I was done working on her, I had brought her in our back 3rd room, our office. That way I can look at her while I’m working. My wife comes in, and says, “What’s that smell?” “Probably the old dirt and grease that is still on the bike and I had just lightly lubed the chain,” I replied.  After she closely looked at the bike as she is uncleaned, which barely fit in the room, and just enough to walk by, she says “Cochina.” “That's right, just the way I like her," I replied.  "Cochina, hmmmm I like that.”  That’s what we will name our ’36 Schwinn DBR.  "Cochina" in Spanish means filthy or dirty girl, perfect name for this old girl.



Thank you for that great story


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## Jon Olson

You just increased the value of the DBR’s for those of us lucky enough to own one!
Thank You,
Jon


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## Eddie_Boy

razinhellcustomz said:


> Just throw a feather guard on it and they'll never  know the difference.. RideOn.. Razin..



For this old Schwinn, the hockey stick is appropriate, the correct look and chain guard for Cochina, a '36 with the flat fender braces .  Thanks Razin.


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## razinhellcustomz

Mabuhay said:


> While I was looking at the newly mounted drop stand, I noticed something and wanted to make a change.
> 
> View attachment 1552548
> 
> View attachment 1552549
> 
> View attachment 1552550
> 
> Decided to change the drop stand position.  When the stand is up, the horizontal line of the stand sagged a bit; it wasn’t in line with the rear chain stay.  I’ve seen in the catalogs, that some are this way.  Removed the chain guard for a better look.  Thinking to myself, how it would look better if the drop stand was in line with the lines of the chain stay.  So I took a Wald fender clip, and drilled a second hole.  The idea is to raise the clip higher hence raising the drop stand at the tail when up. Maybe it was a good idea and another reason to dock the tail length of the rear fender anyway.
> 
> Before
> View attachment 1552551
> After
> View attachment 1552552
> Before
> View attachment 1552555
> After...much better
> View attachment 1552556
> 
> While I was at it, I was thinking of the constant pressure of the fender caused by the drop stand when up.  For some reason this drop stand sits behind the fender when the drop stand is positioned in the clip.   I wanted to strengthen the fender tail.  The idea was to reinforce where the clip would go.  So I took an old chrome fender, and shaped it to the newly docked rear fender tail.  I didn’t want the fender to tear again, so hopefully this will prevent from that happening again.  After all said and done, looks much better to me now all aligned.  What do you think?  Now just have to figure how I’m going to get the rear of Cochina up higher when the stand is down, but that’s for another time.
> 
> View attachment 1552557
> 
> View attachment 1552558
> 
> View attachment 1552559
> 
> View attachment 1552560



Looks much better this way with the stand in alignment with the chain stays.. Looking good.. RideOnn.. Razin..


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## razinhellcustomz

Mabuhay said:


> For this old Schwinn, the hockey stick is appropriate, the correct look and chain guard for Cochina, a '36 with the flat fender braces .  Thanks Razin.



Your welcome and your also right about the "stick guard" does in fact look the part... I picked up a pre war CWC Roadmaster with this guard and they really POP on the old bikes.. Enjoy and RideOnn.. Razin..


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## Eddie_Boy

Just thought I’d share. I love riding this old Schwinn DBR. Cochina has been my rider lately, and my wife and I ride daily. Well I made the mistake of airing up the rear tire above the max 30 lbs. Why I thought it was okay to air the tire higher, I don’t know; wasn’t smart of me and knowing it’s an old tire too. The front tire I left at 30 lbs. No long ago, a friend of mine noticed the side wall of the tire tearing near the bead of the tire. Even though I had another used set of tires available I didn’t want to give up on the very used Carlisle Lightning Dart look on Cochina; I like the look of darts so much. So I did what I used to do when mountain biking. I got my wife’s heavy duty needle, a super long string of flat wide floss and stitched up the side wall tear. The old rubber was no longer pliable so did the best I could. Not my best stitch job either due to the checking side wall, but did the trick. Then soaked up the stitched area with rubber cement both inside and out. I then took a very old throwaway US Royal Chain tire, cut 7” length area of the side wall and rubber cement in place between the inner tube and the inner side wall. I have since swapped the tires, placing the stitched up tire to the front. To my surprise, these old Carlisle tires are still holding on.

I’m sure some of you or most of you are probably thinking, “What is this guy thinking? Just replace the damn tires.” Yeah, that’s what everyone is saying. And since I don’t have any spare BW Lightning Darts, what do I have to lose. So until I find another BW Carlisle darts, or until these old tires give way, these stitched up old rubber will stay on Cochina for now.





First noticed the tear




Close up of the tear




Throwaway old chain tires, so cut away piece of side wall




My stitched up tire




I know, it's not a pretty look, but it's working for now


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## fordmike65

Put a set of John's chaintreads! They're period & look great!


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## tacochris

Mabuhay said:


> Just thought I’d share. I love riding this old Schwinn DBR. Cochina has been my rider lately, and my wife and I ride daily. Well I made the mistake of airing up the rear tire above the max 30 lbs. Why I thought it was okay to air the tire higher, I don’t know; wasn’t smart of me and knowing it’s an old tire too. The front tire I left at 30 lbs. No long ago, a friend of mine noticed the side wall of the tire tearing near the bead of the tire. Even though I had another used set of tires available I didn’t want to give up on the very used Carlisle Lightning Dart look on Cochina; I like the look of darts so much. So I did what I used to do when mountain biking. I got my wife’s heavy duty needle, a super long string of flat wide floss and stitched up the side wall tear. The old rubber was no longer pliable so did the best I could. Not my best stitch job either due to the checking side wall, but did the trick. Then soaked up the stitched area with rubber cement both inside and out. I then took a very old throwaway US Royal Chain tire, cut 7” length area of the side wall and rubber cement in place between the inner tube and the inner side wall. I have since swapped the tires, placing the stitched up tire to the front. To my surprise, these old Carlisle tires are still holding on.
> 
> I’m sure some of you or most of you are probably thinking, “What is this guy thinking? Just replace the damn tires.” Yeah, that’s what everyone is saying. And since I don’t have any spare BW Lightning Darts, what do I have to lose. So until I find another BW Carlisle darts, or until these old tires give way, these stitched up old rubber will stay on Cochina for now.
> 
> View attachment 1584698
> First noticed the tear
> 
> View attachment 1584699
> Close up of the tear
> 
> View attachment 1584700
> Throwaway old chain tires, so cut away piece of side wall
> 
> View attachment 1584701
> My stitched up tire
> 
> View attachment 1584702
> I know, it's not a pretty look, but it's working for now



The fact that you did all that work to let that original tire live a little longer is one of the reasons we became friends, im willing to bet.  I will use original tires until i have none left to use before I buy new ones.


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## Freqman1

I'm all for the get-r-done spirit but that looks like an accident waiting to happen to me! I had to carry a ballooner for about 3/4 of a mile one time until a guy in a truck took pity on me and took me the other four miles home. V/r Shawn


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## SirMike1983

I agree it is time to replace the tires. Keep the old tires for display.

True "dry rot" is where the cord of the tire loses its structural integrity and tears (as opposed to what people call "dry rot" today when the rubber loses its elastomer and the sidewalls crack). The rupture can lead to an accident if you are riding the bike when it happens. Ruptures can happen at the sidewalls or in the tread with true dry rot in a cotton cord. 

Often if one area of an old, cotton chord tire is rotted and goes, there are other areas in danger of having the same happen. True dry rot can also be insidious in that the outside shows only a minor crack in the rubber, but inside the cord is bad and then tears. You may not know there is a problem until the thing just gives up. Areas of the tire undergo repeated stress and release cycles as the wheel turns, so a weakened area of cord can go at any time.

If you like the old chain tread design, try a set of John's reproduction chain treads. If you want a cheaper option, other brands still make tires in this size. They just won't be quite as nice as the reproduction chaintreads.


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## Eddie_Boy

fordmike65 said:


> Put a set of John's chaintreads! They're period & look great!



Mike, I do have a couple of BW John’s chain tires too.


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## Eddie_Boy

tacochris said:


> The fact that you did all that work to let that original tire live a little longer is one of the reasons we became friends, im willing to bet.  I will use original tires until i have none left to use before I buy new ones.



Chris, even members here are giving me used tires. @mr.cycleplane gave me a few orphans.


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## Eddie_Boy

Freqman1 said:


> I'm all for the get-r-done spirit but that looks like an accident waiting to happen to me! I had to carry a ballooner for about 3/4 of a mile one time until a guy in a truck took pity on me and took me the other four miles home. V/r Shawn



Shawn, I do consider that could be a possibility for me with these tires. We ride our old bikes for errands most of the time, so we are not too far away from home.


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## Eddie_Boy

SirMike1983 said:


> I agree it is time to replace the tires. Keep the old tires for display.
> 
> True "dry rot" is where the cord of the tire loses its structural integrity and tears (as opposed to what people call "dry rot" today when the rubber loses its elastomer and the sidewalls crack). The rupture can lead to an accident if you are riding the bike when it happens. Ruptures can happen at the sidewalls or in the tread with true dry rot in a cotton cord.
> 
> Often if one area of an old, cotton chord tire is rotted and goes, there are other areas in danger of having the same happen. True dry rot can also be insidious in that the outside shows only a minor crack in the rubber, but inside the cord is bad and then tears. You may not know there is a problem until the thing just gives up. Areas of the tire undergo repeated stress and release cycles as the wheel turns, so a weakened area of cord can go at any time.
> 
> If you like the old chain tread design, try a set of John's reproduction chain treads. If you want a cheaper option, other brands still make tires in this size. They just won't be quite as nice as the reproduction chaintreads.



Thanks. I get it. Your description is well taken. I think now I may be swapping these unsafe tires sooner than later.


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## tacochris

Mabuhay said:


> Chris, even members here are giving me used tires. @mr.cycleplane gave me a few orphans.



Every single one of my bikes has original era tires and I put 100's of miles on them so far with no issue other than my using of cheap tubes which I have stopped doing.  ....and I dont just ride on roads, I ride on dirt, trails, rocks and all manner of ground composition.  I will always be an advocate for original tires but I do catch heat for it so i will say its not for everyone.  Takes passion and dedication to keep them alive...


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## Freqman1

tacochris said:


> Every single one of my bikes has original era tires and I put 100's of miles on them so far with no issue other than my using of cheap tubes which I have stopped doing.  ....and I dont just ride on roads, I ride on dirt, trails, rocks and all manner of ground composition.  I will always be an advocate for original tires but I do catch heat for it so i will say its not for everyone.  Takes passion and dedication to keep them alive...



Trust me I have an abundance of passion and dedication but when the structural integrity of the tire is obviously compromised it’s time to change to something safer. I have some bikes with old rubber but I have a lot more piece of mind when I know I’m riding on good tires. V/r Shawn


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## SirMike1983

Part of the problem is that the everyday utility level tire has gotten worse in quality than back when they were common and Made in the USA or Britain. You could get some very good, but still affordable tires from the likes of Goodyear, Carlisle, and Dunlop. They might not be the best of all tires, but they were longer lasting and out performed the really cheap budget tires we see today. It tempts people to go with the old tires. I wish some of them were still made.

It's that at the utilitarian and budget tire level, tires have actually gone down in quality since the days when they were Made in the USA. I attribute this to the unfavorable profit margin of making a budget tire. It's frustrating because many people get bitten by doing a nice clean and restore on an old bike, only to cheap out on tires and have a harsh ride.

I always urge people to try to go at least one step up, or more, from the budget tires made today - get Schwalbe, Michelin, Panaracer, John's tires, whatever it may be. Sometimes the cheaper Kenda is all that's available, but if you have options, don't cheap out on your tires. Money spent on tires, rims, hubs, wheels is money well-spent when you ride.

The double bar roadster is a great bike and I think John's tires will run great on it. The double bar frame is my favorite ballooner frame.


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## tacochris

Freqman1 said:


> Trust me I have an abundance of passion and dedication but when the structural integrity of the tire is obviously compromised it’s time to change to something safer. I have some bikes with old rubber but I have a lot more piece of mind when I know I’m riding on good tires. V/r Shawn



Ill take my chances with the period tire.  
Safety isnt really an issue with me since im probably cruising a 5mph.  If it was a motorcycle ide be singing a different tune.
Im form over function but i force my form to function.  I dont mind that other folks prefer newer, thats what makes the bicycle hobby great, different folks and different strokes and butt for every seat.  
Just preference.


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## mr.cycleplane

In my opinion......just as important as the tire is running a quality inner tube-especially filled with 'Slime'-no more flats. Tire can be cracked-dry rotted-worn down till it looks like an inner tube but a good inner tube is the real work horse here. I run 'Slime' in all my tubes and never had a roadside adventure.


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## Eddie_Boy

Thanks fellas.  I appreciate all your input on this topic of old tires vs new.  I understand your perspectives and all makes sense.  And because I ride my old bikes, I'm on both sides here riding with new and old tires.  I've ridden on old tires many years, original Goodyear's on a '47 and '51 Schwinn balloons, and what a difference new brick tread tires made; it was like riding a new bike. That's how bad the Goodyear tires were.; they're great for display IMO.  But for some reason, these Carlisle Lightning Darts ride nicer than the Goodyear's. And that's why I decided let's keep them on.  I'm a fan; I ride Carlisle darts on my other prewar.  I forgot to add that I use heavy duty tubes when riding old tires.  And @mr.cycleplane, I have yet to try the "Slime.


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## Eddie_Boy

Got a couple of items to complete this old girl. First was an appropriate Schwinn script glass reflector given to me from our friend, @mr.cycleplane. Yeah, it’s cracked and terrible looking, but it works on “Cochina”. Thank you Tyler. But the prize item just came recently. When @rustyjones bought the bike, the PO stated this ‘36 had an Excelsior badge originally. So Paul added an Excelsior shield badge. Cool. But then I saw the shadow of the original shaped badge. That shape I did not recognize. Asked Tyler, and said it is a footed Schwinn badge. So my hunt began for one. Of course a few CABErs helped in my search. There was one that I had a chance of getting, but I waited too long and it was already gone; there was a reason why. Well, this came recently, and I’m so stoked. I had asked a while ago, and @bobcycles surprised me with this. And it wasn’t just a footed Schwinn badge; it’s an Excelsior footed badge. What….my #1 choice; never thought I would find a footed Excelsior. Condition too matches very well, not perfect just like “Cochina”. Very thrilled to have this badge. So a big thank you to Mr. U.

With her now original shape footed badge, this ’36 Schwinn Double (curved) Bar Roadster LBA67 project I would say is now complete.





Pretty bad I know but it's a Schwinn scripted glass.












My first time realizing this badge shape.




Image courtesy of @rustyjones 




Killer.  I dig this look.  

Thanks for letting me share Cochina's story here on the CABE.  Eddie


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## rustyjones

Holy bleep, that looks great on her!! Perfect fit in every way!


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## BF2485

GTs58 said:


> If you haven't already, soak that key cylinder in Mineral Spirits or good solvent and clean out all that WaterDisplacement-40 and gunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somewhat New WD-40 Product | Bicycle Restoration Tips
> 
> 
> WD-40's Specialist Rust Release Penetrant  Has anyone tried this stuff out yet? I picked up a can of the regular D-40 and this came with it as a two pack deal. Seems the new owners of WD-40 are going to town with all the new products. I have only used this once, and not for getting rusty parts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thecabe.com



I like to use Aerokroil, a bit pricey, but it's good stuff!!


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## Eddie_Boy

BF2485 said:


> I like to use Aerokroil, a bit pricey, but it's good stuff!!



@BF2485, my son In law gave me a can of that same stuff. Works great.


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