# CWC Roadmaster ID help



## ChadB (Oct 1, 2009)

Hello,

I'm hoping someone here can help me ID my old Roadmaster, and maybe give me some details as to where it was originally in the Roadmaster model lineup. 

As you can see, I prettied it up a bit...When I bought it, the thing was just a frame and fenders. I knew it was a Cleveland Welding bike, so I bought what I could find, that I figured would be more or less correct; the CWC skip tooth sprocket, the Luxury Liner chain guard, the decals and frame badge...I had the bike shop build me a set of wheels to fit balloon tires, the rear one around an old Morrow hub (stamped E1) I had. I had it all powder coated Eastwood ruby red, not because I thought they did that way back but because I happen to like the color. Also, the red tires, same reason. I also got what I was told were the right handlebars and grips. I had to go with the Schwinn-style repop springer because, A, I had no forks, and B, I couldn't find any other kind. Also, my search for a tank has come up empty. The headlight/horn is an N.O.S. 50's piece that I just thought was cool.

The frame # under the crank is J47422. I'd appreciate the year of manufacture, and any model info (like if it is supposed to even have a springer, or just truss rods, and if it should have a tank) if possible. 










BTW, before anyone suggests Memory Lane, I live about 35 minutes from the place...I've met Larry and Harv, and a few others there personally. Harv built my wheels.


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## JLarkin (Oct 2, 2009)

This is the fork you should have.  You have today to decide to buy it.  Right now the price is right.  I would probably not bid more than $60 myself.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-Hiawath...in_0?hash=item20ad6a7ff2&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

I think your bike turned out great!


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## ChadB (Oct 2, 2009)

Thanks...I'm watching it.


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## RMS37 (Oct 2, 2009)

You have built a nice looking cruiser to your taste. Because CWC did not differentiate their models by serial number it is impossible to know exactly how it was equipped when it left the factory. This applies to whether or not the bike was springer equipped or what level of sheet metal and trim it wore. The fenders indicate it was not supplied at the highest Luxury Liner trim level as they would have impressed ribs. Below that level there are still a wide range of possibilities.  

As for the year; the style of the rear dropouts on your frame indicates it was built between 1947 and 1949. 1947 was also the first year for the Cleveland Welding produced postwar straight bar frame. Variations of the straight bar were produced until the end of the fifties but the drop outs on your frame were changed to a different style during late 1949 or early 1950. 

Look at the serial number, J followed by 5 digits was used more than once. Your serial number is probably followed by Cw or more likely ACw.  If that is the case I would place the year for your frame at 1949.

If your desire is to rebuild the bike to the highest degree of historic accuracy possible then you would need to build it within the range of CWC offerings from the year the frame was produced and be mindful that it was not originally a Luxury Liner. In most cases it is more realistic to start with a compete deluxe bike for a restoration to that level. 

If your desire is to build a cruiser representative of the period then your options are broader and you are completely free to define them on your own terms. 

This extends to the fork. Your bike may have had a standard fork or a springer. If it had a springer it would have had straight truss rods with out the bumper bends which were produced after the drop out change. In terms of historic accuracy the fork currently on eBay is not correct for your frame as it is too new (1950-1953). In Cruiser terms it might be deemed more appropriate but in historic terms it is just as incorrect as the Schwinn fork currently on your bike.

The freedom of building a period cruiser is generally more fun than the anal imperatives that come with historically accurate restorations. So my warning is to beware of any creeping compunctions toward the later, once they have you in their grip it is too late and you can?t go back!


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## ChadB (Oct 2, 2009)

Phil,

Thanks so much for all the information. When I got this bike, I decided that I would build it, more or less "period correct", and by that I mean, let's say I am a kid in the late 40's-early 50's, and the rich kid down the street has a full-on Luxury Liner; My parents can't afford one of those, but I managed to find a bike that "kinda" looks like the rich kid's bike, and I did what I could to make mine as pretty as his. I'm not really into making the bike 100% historically accurate...Obviously, they didn't powder coat them back then! I think if I wanted that I'd be better off starting with a more documented, easier to research bike, like an old Schwinn. That being said, I'd still rather have a CWC built springer, even if it's a couple years newer than the frame, on the bike than a new Chinese made Schwinn repop.

Oh, I just looked at the serial number. It has a C with a smaller w inside of it, but no A, after the set of numbers. Also, when I got the bike, the fenders had those flaps with reflectors on them; They LOOK old, could they be original or a period accessory?

While I'm at it, the serial number on the girls' Roadmaster I'm working on is B60402..Could that be pre-war?


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## JLarkin (Oct 2, 2009)

If you win the auction you will love how it works on the bike.  Incredibly springy.  You almost want to watch it work more than watching the road!


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## ChadB (Oct 2, 2009)

JLarkin said:


> If you win the auction you will love how it works on the bike.  Incredibly springy.  You almost want to watch it work more than watching the road!




It must be incredibly springy....Incredibly expensive, too...$137! No, I didn't win it.


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## JLarkin (Oct 3, 2009)

Holy crap!  Keep watching.  That is more than you should pay for a whole bike with one.


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