# My 1910 project ( Iver )



## filmonger (Apr 1, 2018)

My 1910 Iver.... Almost there with making it a rider. Took me quite a while to find the right fork for it. It still needs the badge attached, needs a skip tooth chain, head badge screws, better saddle and a little shim for the left crank arm. Possibly more appropriate rat traps to boot.

I also have a pair of Iver metal clad that I am in the process of fixing to possibly replace the rider rims with something more period.  Though, I kind of like the look of the black rims. 

The Musselman armless on the Iver rims seems to spin backwards over a few rotations before it is engaged. Not sure how to fix this? I'll post a video of it in the next few days.

Do you guys think I should paint this or leave it as is?.... - most of the paint is gone on the frame. The patina is kind of cool though!


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## 2jakes (Apr 1, 2018)

filmonger said:


> View attachment 780678
> 
> My 1910 Iver.... Almost there with making it a rider. Took me quite a while to find the right fork for it. It still needs the badge attached, needs a skip tooth chain, head badge screws, better saddle and a little shim for the left crank arm. Possibly more appropriate rat traps to boot.
> 
> ...





Patina is my favorite even if most of the paint
is gone from the frame. 
If it was mine, I'd leave it alone and just enjoy
it as is.
If painted, even if it's well done, it'll be just
another nice bike but will never again have
the originality that it once had.


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## filmonger (Apr 1, 2018)

Thanks, 2jakes .... Leaning in that direction.


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## dnc1 (Apr 1, 2018)

A bicycle that looks like it has had a life always looks better to me personally.
Very nice.


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## redline1968 (Apr 1, 2018)

Leave it .. it looks nice as it is.


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## stezell (Apr 1, 2018)

I agree with patina also.


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## carlitos60 (May 10, 2018)

Any Updates???


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## filmonger (May 17, 2018)

Parting it out - in the sale thread. Kelly's sold


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## hoofhearted (May 18, 2018)

*
I totally disagree with that patina ''look''.  If you are
parting-out this machine .. it's not too late to clean-
up that frame .. wash it  with denatured alcohol, rub
it down with a half of a potato, followed by a decent
water wash .. then cap it off with the brightest, ''wet-
look'', fluorescent, metallic,,candy-apple, pearl paint 
available to you.

An antique racing frame prepared in this manner will 
always command more respect, attention and money 
than one that is in the condition your frame / fork is now.

Good luck with the sale, Will .....

..... patric



The ''dipped in nail polish'' appearance of the frame
and fork will always be waaay more impressive than
just leaving it ''as-is''.*


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## 2jakes (May 18, 2018)

hoofhearted said:


> *I totally disagree with that patina ''look''.  If you are
> parting-out this machine .. it's not too late to clean-
> up that frame .. wash it  with denatured alcohol, rub
> it down with a half of a potato, followed by a decent
> ...



....*.really?*


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## hoofhearted (May 18, 2018)

2jakes said:


> ....*.really?*





@2jakes
*C'mon, now .. 2jakes ... can't you tell by ALL
of the technical inclusions I listed in that entry 
that I am being Mr. Smartypants ?!

Doood ... ya gots t' know I loves patination.

That new, ''dipped in nail polish'' look initiates
the Heebie in my Heebie Jeebies ...... 

Well ... I guess I can forgive you just this once .........

...... patric

post script ..... after I neutralized any thick and
active rust on my '17/'18 F-M ... I used the product
shown in the very last foto.   That original paint is
''as-found'' ... no other extra paint was added. The
color of the rust is somewhat controllable.  New-
looking  rust is not a desired feature in patination.

Krylon Matte Finish Spray was used to seal the deal.

Follow the directions stated on the bottle.  Those 
priced vary, but hopefully are current.




 



 *

*

 

*


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## 2jakes (May 18, 2018)

hoofhearted said:


> *C'mon, now .. 2jakes ... can't you tell by ALL
> of the technical inclusions I listed in that entry
> that I am being Mr. Smartypants ?!
> ...... patric*



*....me 2....*


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## hoofhearted (May 18, 2018)

2jakes said:


> *....me 2.... *





*You got me, Big Daddy !!*


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## 2jakes (May 18, 2018)

*Brush Strokes For A Bonifide Patination  *

*In the early days of the automobile, bicycles, master furniture and carriage craftsmen painstakingly applied primitive oil-based enamel or varnish primer and finish coatings along with kerosene **by brush! *
*These finishes had somewhat poor opacity which required numerous coats for coverage and took weeks to dry.*
* They used mainly ink pigments which all tended to be darker colors. These coatings did not withstand weather and sunlight very well and tended to become dry and brittle before long. *

*Since those paint jobs didn’t last all that long, in those days, it was common for an owner to get some paint at a hardware store or mail order catalog like Montgomery Ward along with a good horse hair or hog bristle brush and re-paint the car. *
*With the idea of preserving the car, some folks even did it every year or so…by brush of course! *

*A number of manufacturers including Ford in the Model T line, used a combination of brushing, dipping and even pouring to fully cover and protect the various parts of a car or truck.

 The 1920s saw the beginning of the introduction to spray equipment and nitrocellulose lacquers and primers which were developed together to speed application and dry time to a week or less which cut down dramatically the time required to paint a car although they still required labor intensive and time consuming hand rubbing to achieve a shine. 
This was not especially true in the production of early trucks however, most 1920s to 1960’s trucks were considered to be no-frills pieces of working equipment built to be used and abused, not to be fussed over and pampered.

 A great example of this is with 1930’s Model AA Ford trucks that were built with dull, non-shiny, non-rubbed lacquer finishes. 
Rubbing-out was an extra-cost Ford AA truck option that according to a Ford service letter of May 5,1931; cost $15.00 extra for the cab, cowl and hood while a pickup bed cost $7.00.  

In addition to reduced dry times, nitrocellulose lacquers were more durable and allowed the use of brighter colored although more expensive pigments. Interestingly, although with constant improvements, the organic-based nitrocellulose lacquer was used by some manufacturers well into the later 1950s when it was replaced with the much more durable acrylic lacquers and primers which were synthetics.*


*History Timeline and Types of Automotive Paint - Eastwood Garage*


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## filmonger (May 20, 2018)

Parting includes rust & patina plus the correct Iver badge .... another mother nature restoration. It takes years for the mother nature restoration service to prepare the patina of this bike.  

.....Usually pronouncing it as pa-TEEN-uh, although PAT-in-a is also correct.

 However you pronounce it, the word is as rich as the objects it describes. A famous New York antiques dealer who lived in the first part of the 20th century said to have used the following analogy to help define "patina" for one of his senior female patrons: "Today you are a lovely woman of 60. However, who you are today is not who you were when you were 20. The difference is patina."


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