# really grimy, rusty neglected chains



## Mickey2

I am repairing a single speed ladies bike (1963). It's not a major restoration, but more of a repair and fixup. Initially I thought the chain was ruined. No regular chain cleaning dissolved the layers of dirt and rust, not even white spirit, but after two days in a bottle with WD40 it came out surprisingly clean. Those 8-shaped links are now a bluish metal, and hardly any traces of rust at all elsewhere, and it doesn't look too worn for further use. This cleaning was probably not worth it costwise, as a new chain would be about the same as the different cleaners and oils involved to get it clean. I started with undiluted dishwasher soap and hot water, then turned to a bio chain cleaner, then white spirit, then WD40; so it was a sort of trial and error approach. It was really hard to get the stuck on grime and rust off, sand included.  I should probably have gone for WD40 straight a way (or something equivalent), two overnight baths of this stuff and it was clean (new oil and bottle the next night). I used almost an entire large can though. Have any of you found a cost effective way to clean really old difficult dirt?


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## bricycle

Mickey2 said:


> I am repairing a single speed ladies bike (1963). It's not a major restoration, but more of a repair and fixup. Initially I thought the chain was ruined. No regular chain cleaning dissolved the layers of dirt and rust, not even white spirit, but after two days in a bottle with WD40 it came out surprisingly clean. Those 8-shaped links are now a bluish metal, and hardly any traces of rust at all elsewhere, and it doesn't look too worn for further use. This cleaning was probably not worth it costwise, as a new chain would be about the same as the different cleaners and oils involved to get it clean. I started with undiluted dishwasher soap and hot water, then turned to a bio chain cleaner, then white spirit, then WD40; so it was a sort of trial and error approach. It was really hard to get the stuck on grime and rust off, sand included.  I should probably have gone for WD40 straight a way (or something equivalent), two overnight baths of this stuff and it was clean (new oil and bottle the next night). I used almost an entire large can though. Have any of you found a cost effective way to clean really old difficult dirt?




I usually scrub with Simple Green, and rinse first, dry... see what I have . then if needs more, I use liquid stripper or something that has Tri-chlorethelene(sp). The latter two are real toxic, so gloves and lots of good ventilation are a must. aka use at own risk!!! it will melt hard plastic brushes!! Nasty stuff!!! (insert skull and crossbones here) ..think it fried my sinuses and brain.


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## dougfisk

I throw chains FIRST in a tin of gasoline, (about 50 cents worth) for a couple hours to a couple weeks, depending on the hurry.  Afterward I put it in a plastic jar (with lid) with a 50/50 mix of degreaser and water and shake it up and let it soak repeatedly.  Don't leave in this solution for more than a couple hours, as all degreasers have acid and will discolor (or worse) the steel.


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## Mickey2

So tri-chlorethelene and gasoline; I have to try it. It's not often a chain is this difficult to clean luckily. I don't know what tri-chlorethelene is really, but gasoline and white spirit are related petroleum distillates? I always thought of white spririt as the thinnest of them and the most effective solvent. I suppose they might have different properties as a cleaner though. White spirit worked, but not very effective; I should probably have rinsed the chain and let it seep yet another night in white spirit. WD40 was oddly effective at dissolving and drawing out rust and grime from within the links. I wonder what it's made of to be that effective. I would happily try different bio options too. A tip I was given by a friend was to soak in citrus solvent, then wash of in hot water with wasing powder for white fabrics? Grime really sticks to a chain when left dirty and neglected for 20 years in a garage.


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## sbusiello

Info on WD's secret sauce, which still seems a secret http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/

I use undiluted vinegar. Relatively cheap. A gallon is $2. 40 hours in vinegar and the hardest rust floats to the top.


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## sqrly

I didnt know tricloroethyline was available to the public.  I worked at a chrome plating company for a while and that is what we used to clean the parts just before the chrome process.  Tri-chlor as we called it, is very nasty stuff and I personally would not risk using it at home.  We had lots of neutralize agent on hand and emergency resparators if needed right next to the machine.


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## bike

*I buy pb blaster in the gallon can*

use and old coffee can with a lid and let them soak. after they are all worked out and cleaned with a wire brass hand brush, I use brake cleaner and then used to oil but now will try some new chain stuff I got off ebay on a recomendation- wax not grease or oil cause it does not hold dirt (that is the pitch anyway)


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## JOEL

There are a number of solvents that will do the job. I personally would not use chemical strippers. For grease, simple green or citrus based degreasers work well using the coffee can method. For rust, gasoline, oil, or kerosene will do it. An acid bath as suggested or lye bath (Drain Opener) will also work.


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## Mickey2

Thanks guys for your thoughts on the subject. It's important to get new ideas for simple stuff like this too now and then. I suppose there is no point in cleaning a chain if it costs too much or if it is too harsh on the environment. This particular chain was unusually stubborn to get clean. What can be very difficult is to get the rings between the links to move smothly again once they have stuck, and I am still surpriced how effective some of the thin spray-can oils dissolve dried up oil and grime. I might get a large can of this kind of stuff!  However, gasoline and lye is probably the most cost effective if they work as well.


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## MrColumbia

First I soak the chain in gasoline to get the heavy, greasy stuff off. Then I put the chain in an ultrasonic cleaning tank with a mild phosphoric acid solution to remove any rust and deep clean in all the joints. Lightly wiping down the chain with a scotch-bright pad while in the solution will make the chain shine. I've had chains that were a solid mass that most people would think are not salvageable and turned them into good looking functional chains.


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## Mickey2

Of the lubes I have tried lately I like the Finish Line Ceramic Wet Lube more and more. It is a thin synthetic type of oil, very smooth and penetrating, with stuff like teflon and boron-something-I-cannot-remember. It might not be the most longlasting, but it makes a noticeable difference. It is made for the best gears available for racers, but does a better job on old haggered chains than one might expect.


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## Freqman1

MrColumbia said:


> First I soak the chain in gasoline to get the heavy, greasy stuff off. Then I put the chain in an ultrasonic cleaning tank with a mild phosphoric acid solution to remove any rust and deep clean in all the joints. Lightly wiping down the chain with a scotch-bright pad while in the solution will make the chain shine. I've had chains that were a solid mass that most people would think are not salvageable and turned them into good looking functional chains.




That wouldn't have anything to do with your recent mishap would it?  V/r Shawn


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## fattommy

freqman1 said:


> that wouldn't have anything to do with your recent mishap would it?  v/r shawn




p l e a s e  do not soak in gasoline.


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## SirMike1983

I've tried PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD 40, 3-in-1, and many other light oils. I like Kano Kroil hands down. I start with that and here's how I did my last chain clean up:

http://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-smell-of-cleaned-chain.html


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## squeedals

sbusiello said:


> Info on WD's secret sauce, which still seems a secret http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/
> 
> I use undiluted vinegar. Relatively cheap. A gallon is $2. 40 hours in vinegar and the hardest rust floats to the top.




I like this idea a lot. Non toxic is the way to go (if it works) Anybody else use/try vinegar? I've been breathing fumes way too long (can't you tell)


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## ThegoodThebad&Therusty

I think vinegar is just another form of citric acid isn't it ?

It does eat away rust, but so does lemon Kool-Aid powder mix (high in citric acid) without that nasty vinegar stink. Especially effective on brass and copper but don't mix dissimilar metals in the soak or it will start to turn the brass pink through the process of electrolysis !!
I've also read you can get citric acid powder commercially but I don't know where you'd look for that. If you could get ahold of some of that you could mix up an extra strong brew and get whatever you're soaking to literally fizz. 

pap
.


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## dougfisk

I have shied away from using acid on my chains.  There is a rather blurry distinction between removing rust and removing steel.  A broken chain can ruin your whole day... (or worse).


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## Euphman06

I'd have to second Brake Klean from autozone. That stuff blasts the grease right off..


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## morton

*Easy Off Oven Cleaner for heavy caked on grease*

Original in yellow can.  Lay out chain in pan, spray liberally.  Let soak about 10 minutes, flip and do other side, then rinse throughly with water.  Chain usually comes out grease free, but sometimes I've had to use an old paint brush or tooth brush to loosen really caked on stuff. I then hang chain and spray with WD (water displacement) 40, then oil thorughly.  Cleaning best done outside due to fumes and *be sure to wear nitrile or similiar type gloves not affected by EO.* 

Won't dissolve rust, but I usually don't try to save rusty chains.  EO costs about $4 and will do 3-5 chains.


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## Iverider

Vinegar is Acetic acid. It will do the trick, but if you leave it in too long it'll start removing steel as Doug has said. Acids will also affect the finish if there's any left. 

aI have a chain soaking in Evaporust right now. It's supposed to remove ONLY rust and no steel. So far it's been about a week. I initially did a mineral spirits soak and scrub for grease, followed by a quick dish soap brushing with a stiff grunge brush. I'll post pics when I remove from the Evaporust this weekend.


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## bikecrazy

I use mineral spirits for the grease removal phase and soak and scrub. I followup with WD40 for the final cleaning.


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## scrubbinrims

Any solution is messy.
Manual brushing causes tendonitis.

Get yourself a motor (bench grinder) and use a soft 6" wire wheel and run it outside in a non trafficked area.
Knocks off the rust and caked on grease even in the crevices and leaves a thin coat on that is needed.
Be careful in letting the wheel do the work and only a small section at a time holding firmly.

Chris


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## RJWess

*Goof Off*

I just cleaned a 70 year old rusty, road grime covered chain with Goof Off. Put it in a bucket sprayed it down swished it around a couple of minutes. Took the chain out wiped it down. Its free moving and looks great.


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## Boris

WOW! Next chain, I'm trying GOOF OFF! (while always remembering to read entire label and use necessary precautions).


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## vincev

Dave Marko said:


> WOW! Next chain, I'm trying GOOF OFF! (while always remembering to read entire label and use necessary precautions).




They named the product after you.


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## Nickinator

*Goof Off is great....*

But I'd only use it outdoors or in very well ventilated areas, that stuff is toxic to your lungs and brain....

Darcie


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## Boris

Nickinator said:


> But I'd only use it outdoors or in very well ventilated areas, that stuff is toxic to your lungs and brain....
> 
> Darcie




Good advice. Thank you.


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## Jennifer Parker

I have done three old chains so far with great results. I have la's all purpose cleaner and degreaser concentrate (dollar store), cheap no phosphate laundry detergent, and oxalic acid crystals. Baking soda, brass bristle brushes, two or three containers, sink, hot water, long fishing out bit for rust bath part removal. Gloves! Oxalic acid is bad for livers, and skin. Gloves!

1) remove chain from bike, place in straight batch la's and laundry soap for 4-6 hours.
2) rinse, use brass bristle brush on all chain surfaces. 
3) 1:1:1/2 water, la's, laundry soap in water tight wide mouth jar you don't mind screwing up. 
4) Shake, rattle, and roll jar at 10-20 minute intervals (when you remember it  ) 
5) after 2 hours or so (mine have sat for two days when I was sick) drain, rinse, brush, rinse, and ensure there's no oil, grease, or lubricant left. 
6) mix oxalic acid crystals with hot water to preferred strength. Add chain, and wait twenty minutes. (Bath should start turning yellow after 20 minutes, if not add more hot water dissolved crystals. 
7) remove chain with stick/tongs/spare wrench, and place in baking soda water (will sizzle a bit)
8) wash in hot soapy water, work each link to ensure free movement. (Links may seize up, two of mine did, and that's okay, details at bottom)
9) if clean and de rusty enough, dry, lube, install
10) enjoy nice clean chain

Things to not panic over:

The chain may freeze up during the oa bath cycle(s). The oa makes mineral salts out of the rust, and it looks like white/yellow/green sludge/paste/slime. Since it's inside the rollers (if there's rust in there) it can seize up the links. The longer the chain sits undisturbed the more likely it will seize up due to build up. 20 minutes is good, because the links don't have time to seize. You can jiggle, shake, and rotate the chain to keep it from sticking if the first 20 isn't enough time. The brush will remove the surface layer of sludge. You will see it coming out of the rollers, and the hot soapy bath and agitation will remove the internal deposits. Lubing and riding will ensure any residue will come out. 

I use wd-40 post cleaning to expel water and residues from anything I missed. I follow up with 3-1 WD-40 lubricating oil, and recheck my lube job every third ride to ensure I did it right. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have questions.


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## Jennifer Parker

*Pictures! Forgot!*

Must have pics or it didn't happen.


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## spoker

finnally someone brought up that acid eats metal and if it isnt totally nueutale it keeps on eating,if you see what it can do to metal think what it can do to parts of your body,first,acid doesnt remove grease,use something sane to remove old grease[wd 40 is mostly keroene or diesle fuel]after ithe part is degreased put it in one of the new SAFE derusters that are out,i use evaporust,no more russian rolette for me


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## ratcycle

*chain help*

If you want the thoroughly clean a chain. take it off the bike and put in a brownie pan with kerosene and use a toothbrush on it or go with the wire wheel. The problem with all these chemicals is they get into the rollers and flush the good oil out. So if you use any caustic chemicals I would soak the chain in 30 weight or transmission fluid for a good two days. Pull it out the first day to wipe off any residue left from the chemicals and then re-soak. Your best bet to prevent this hassle is to use the wire wheel method. But when you do spray some wd on the chain it helps to clean and polish the chain. But always fellow up with a good chain lube when u do. Hope this helps


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## bikiba

I've been I using wd40 and the wire wheel as well. 

First degreaser..spray, sit for 20mins ...rub it down with wire brush to dislodge 

I get a ziploc bag...spray with wd40...let sit for a day ...next day each side gets the wire wheel and more WD...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


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## bike

*maybe just the 20 or 30 wire wheels I have used but*

they always leave a steel surface looking pitted.


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## bikiba

bike said:


> they always leave a steel surface looking pitted.




is it the wheel? or is it that the black markings left on a derusted piece of metal get lifted off by the wire wheel... a better clean.

i agree that a lot of metal when the rust is cleaned off has divets, but i think it is more that the metal is being completely cleaned rather than leaving those black marks.

Any other opinions on this?


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