# Okay... what the heck do I do now?



## lgrinnings (Dec 17, 2019)

Alright, folks-

Pulling apart this 1920 or so Crown and the non-chainring side Fauber threaded bearing cup sheared off. How the heck am I going to get the rest removed? My thought is to drill a spot in the bearing cup edge that lines up with the crank thread slot, insert a keyway that spans both parts and use the crank to spin it out. The bearing cup is hardened though, so I don't know if drilling it is an option. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

-Lester


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## catfish (Dec 17, 2019)

Ouch!


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## bricycle (Dec 17, 2019)

I wonder, if you hammered(or drilled first) a punch in where the groove is and then tried to turn the crank, if it would turn it out? Heat BB housing first of course


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## fordmike65 (Dec 17, 2019)




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## Kickstand3 (Dec 17, 2019)

Do you have replacement cups?


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## lgrinnings (Dec 17, 2019)

Kickstand3 said:


> Do you have replacement cups?




I have a few, but they're sort of committed to other bikes. There may be a bunch with my dad's collection, I just have to check.


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## morton (Dec 17, 2019)

bricycle said:


> I wonder, if you hammered(or drilled first) a punch in where the groove is and then tried to turn the crank, if it would turn it out? Heat BB housing first of course




I'd try bricycle idea first, but if it doesnt work, drill a second hole appropirately spaced for somerhing like this:


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## bricycle (Dec 17, 2019)

Nothing fits like the original tho.... fauber to fauber doesn't guarantee a like thread fit!


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## bikewhorder (Dec 17, 2019)

Yep. that's easy, two new holes and a spanner.  Now finding a replacement that's not worn down beyond the point of uselessness could be almost impossible. Fauber BB parts seem to be really soft and wear out fast.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 17, 2019)

I'd drill one small hole but just deep enough to get the tip of a punch in there, then "unscrew it" by hitting the punch with a hammer. easy squeezy


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## SKPC (Dec 17, 2019)

You guys are pretty optimistic about screwing the rest of that broken piece out, particularly if it is stuck enough to wrench the rest of it completely off?
I am assuming the rest of the race screws out of the shell..The punch into the slot idea then turning the crank may ruin the crank threads if the cup refuses to move...thinking out loud here..


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## Junkman Bob (Dec 17, 2019)

Tack weld or self tapper screws to race nut to face of cup and hopefully back it out as one piece ... thinking out loud as well


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## hoofhearted (Dec 17, 2019)

*Chainring side has a cup with right-hand threads.

Port-side cup has left-hand threads.  Turn clockwise 
to loosen.

….. *patric


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## bikewhorder (Dec 17, 2019)

SKPC said:


> You guys are pretty optimistic about screwing the rest of that broken piece out, particularly if it is stuck enough to wrench the rest of it completely off?
> I am assuming the rest of the race screws out of the shell..The punch into the slot idea then turning the crank may ruin the crank threads if the cup refuses to move...thinking out loud here..



I suspect its not so much stuck as it is worn through to the point of being paper thin.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Dec 17, 2019)

Hope you get it turning.
I had this really nice Fauber wrench, but foolishly sold it....


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## SKPC (Dec 18, 2019)

bikewhorder said:


> I suspect its not so much stuck as it is worn through to the point of being paper thin.



Didn't notice the thin/thick nature of the piece that broke out Chris: it was certainly worn badly enough to lose it's strength in order to break as it did.  It doesn't bode well though for the remaining piece buried in there.  Let's just hope the person who installed it also greased the BB threads. (doubt it)    BB threads that old are so exposed to moisture and time that they tend to fuse together in the thread interface.   Maybe before attempting what may be impossible, clean up  the remaining exposed threads of the BB shell with a Dremel using the small stainless wire wheel setup.    Afterwards,  heavily Kroil it for days on end(weeks?)  Then attempt to get it moving one way or another with a punch. This may require a lot of waiting in order to get the remaining piece moving enough to actually thread it out...
     I would cut it into two pieces with a Dremel tool steel cutter bit to remove it since it is already shot. At least the threads in the shell and the crank will be intact afterwards. Solving problems like this makes this hobby a lot of fun for me.  Let us know how you end up figuring out this dilemma   @lgrinnings


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## bricycle (Dec 18, 2019)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> Hope you get it turning.
> I had this really nice Fauber wrench, but foolishly sold it....
> 
> View attachment 1111771
> ...



don't have to be foolish, think I could sell it back to you.


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## THE STIG (Dec 18, 2019)

Hammer a wedge in the crank slot and turn the crank


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## bricycle (Dec 18, 2019)

Maybe a small ball grinder on inside of cup after you clean it a bit, then hammer out remainder of cup. BB threads may take the abuse?


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Dec 18, 2019)

bricycle said:


> don't have to be foolish, think I could sell it back to you.



I’m in!
PM me, if you can.
Thanks


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Dec 18, 2019)

Just a thought....
Possibly position the frame on its right side and pour in some derusting liquid.


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## THE STIG (Dec 18, 2019)

.....


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## redline1968 (Dec 19, 2019)

Heat the hangar with a torch around the it but first spray oil  and clean the exposed threads... The heat will expand the hangar and release the cup from the rust. While hot (use a punch/ something sharp) tap the broken  cup ( at a angle) in the direction it needs to unscrew.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 19, 2019)

still stuck?


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 19, 2019)

PB Blaster from your local Auto Parts or hardware store is good at loosening rusty things


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## Andrew Gorman (Dec 19, 2019)

I'd definitely try the penetrating oil/heat treatments for a while before trying anything more.  The idea to drill a couple of holes for a pin spanner is a good one.  If the cup is hardened you might have to grind the holes through.  The little Park tool is not sturdy enough for this job, and the prongs on other pin spanners won't be long enough to clear the crank.  I have made my own out of Unistrut and grade 8 bolts- here is a picture of the rig I made to unscrew a chainring.  Scroll down to post #31...:








						Ca. 1937 Adler Dreigang / 3-Gang German bottom bracket 3 speed | Project Rides
					

Dang!




					thecabe.com


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## Andrew Gorman (Dec 19, 2019)

Looking at your picture it might help to offset the pin bolts in the unistrut (there's room) and set them back far enough that the end of the unistrut can be u-bolted to the crank for more stability.  Just an idea, if the crank spins more or less freely.  Slipping tools are no fun for the tool, the workpiece or the operator!


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## t.c.815 (Dec 24, 2019)

it appears to be the bearing race that is broken,the bearing cup is pressed in first. clean up the mess .heat the broken piece with a propane torch until red 
hot use a ice pick to push the broken piece to the center,as soon as you have enough of it in the center  grab with a pair of pliers and pull out the broken part, good luck,
 the torch won,t damage any other part,


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 24, 2019)

I think he sold the bike and now has a different hobby.


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## lgrinnings (Dec 24, 2019)

Thanks everyone! It's out. I did take a break because I couldn't get that foolish piece of cup to turn no matter what I tried. Ultimately I backed out the other cup, heated the bottom bracket with a torch and tapped it out from behind from the chainring side. Fun stuff. Now to look for a replacement cup in my dad's stuff...


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## Goldenrod (Dec 25, 2019)

Group clap all around !


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## Rivnut (Jan 8, 2020)




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## Rivnut (Jan 8, 2020)

On the last three rust buckets I've worked on, I've found the best tool in the shop is my propane torch.  One stuck seat post, one stuck handlebar stem wedge (along with the big slide hammer), and a bunch of stuck spokes on an old Elgin wheel - got all 36 out without breaking any.


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## razinhellcustomz (Jan 31, 2020)

GiovanniLiCalsi said:


> Just a thought....
> Possibly position the frame on its right side and pour in some derusting liquid.



Oil of winter green is some good deruster. My brother used this stuff to break loose rusted up hit and miss engines years ago when we were kids. Good luck. Razin.


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## razinhellcustomz (Jan 31, 2020)

lgrinnings said:


> Thanks everyone! It's out. I did take a break because I couldn't get that foolish piece of cup to turn no matter what I tried. Ultimately I backed out the other cup, heated the bottom bracket with a torch and tapped it out from behind from the chainring side. Fun stuff. Now to look for a replacement cup in my dad's stuff...



Congrats and good luck. Razin.


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