# Iver Johnson project



## 2jakes (Jan 26, 2014)

I'm at the starting phase of putting together this IJ. ( 1920s).





It's in pretty good condition except for the tires.
Took a couple of days to clean before I  started to assemble the bike.
 The wood rims & fenders have no cracks or dents.








So far... the only problem is the front wheel assembly.



The fork width is too narrow to insert the wheel with the pin...
I removed the pin (blue arrow) & inserted the hub to the fork.
I tried to insert the pin from one end...
but the threads will only extend so much & will not  go all the way
to the other side.

Most of my bikes have the fork slot to allow for the wheel hub/pin to 
slide in.

Any one know how to install correctly the front wheel ?

Thanks


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## tailhole (Jan 26, 2014)

super cool!  Love Ivers, looks like a killer project.
I asked the same question about my Iver and other prewar bikes.  Apparently you just pry it and stick it on.  There is a tool to aid in this, but you do have to do one side, then pull the other leg over the axle.


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## Iverider (Jan 26, 2014)

I just thread my axle a little to one side. Stick the long side through the eyelet and then pull the fork apart to accept the other shorter end of the axle. Some people are uncomfortable bending the fork. If you can put a kink in it with bare hands, stop what you're doing and join a strong man contest!


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## 2jakes (Jan 26, 2014)

Thanks for the help !
I was able to attach the wheel to the front fork.
Even though the tires are wasted...I needed to know how to do it.
I'm finding that there are some options as to what wheel/tires set up
is available for this bicycle.
The rear brakes are by Morrow & front hub is Iver Johnson . 
I plan on riding it on occasions . So, I'll be checking & see if I can use
these components as well.


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## Iverider (Jan 26, 2014)

If your wheels are in gear useable shape I would just go with Robert dean tires. You'll get a pair for $300. Reasonable facsimile using any other method and you'll have $300+ in the wheelset but you'll have easily changeable inner tube clincher tires.


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## 2jakes (Jan 26, 2014)

Krautwaggen said:


> If your wheels are in gear useable shape I would just go with Robert dean tires. You'll get a pair for $300. Reasonable facsimile using any other method and you'll have $300+ in the wheelset but you'll have easily changeable inner tube clincher tires.




After cleaning & checking , the gears are in very good 
working condition.

The  rims , although they appear to have no cracks...
 some of the spokes are loose & missing. I don't know if
these wood rims can withstand more stress taking into
consideration their age.


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## DonChristie (Jan 26, 2014)

Spreading the forks was the scariest thing on these Ivers!! Are your rims Metal over wood? Mine are and I use them all the time. They are quite strong! I love your color combo! What serial number you have?


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## 2jakes (Jan 26, 2014)

schwinndoggy said:


> Spreading the forks was the scariest thing on these Ivers!! Are your rims Metal over wood? Mine are and I use them all the time. They are quite strong! I love your color combo! What serial number you have?





Rims are wood. Around the head tube badge the color is green with gold pinstripes.
 Not 100 % sure of the year. I was told it might be either 1922 or 1923.




The only area to the left is where there is still evidence of the red original color of
the frame. I would like to preserve as much as possible that color , but the majority
is now a dark maroon color. I need to check what the options are on this color scheme.


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## Handyman (Jan 27, 2014)

*Saddle*

2Jakes,
That seat looks like it is in fantastic shape.  Is it a Troxel? Did you do anything to clean/preserve the leather or the metal undercarriage? Pete in Fitchburg


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## 2jakes (Jan 27, 2014)

*Troxel Saddle*



Handyman said:


> 2Jakes,
> That seat looks like it is in fantastic shape.  Is it a Troxel? Did you do anything to clean/preserve the leather or the metal undercarriage? Pete in Fitchburg







I used what was available. On a soft dry cloth I applied Mr. Leather & gently wiped to preserve the leather &
keep it soft. The previous owner told me, the bike was on display for many years. Which may explain the
condition it's in.





I used wheel bearing grease on the metal undercarriage. Notice that the  chrome stem is a yellow hue
because the grease is still on it. I then wipe it off completely since the grease will attract dust.
I did this to see what condition the metal was in & to detect rust spots. There were none. I then washed
the metal with warm soap & water. After drying I used a soft sable brush & black oil enamel to the metal that was
originally black.  The fender's dark spots is actually what's left of the paint. Beneath is the steel showing. There are
no dents or rust. There is one spot where I can see the actual color...that being a shiny red.
Not sure if I will duplicate that color or leave the fender as is for now. This project is a clean/preserve/restoration...
if such a thing is possible.


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