# Ran When Parked



## furyus (Nov 26, 2022)

Winter project I’ll be picking away at over the next few months, a 1967 Sting-Ray. The pictures are from the previous owner’s ad, located in Pennsylvania. It looks worse close up. Goal is to build a mate to my wife’s ‘68 Slik Chik that I put together 10 years ago.


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## juvela (Nov 27, 2022)

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banana appears perfectly showroom

balance may require a touch of cleaning...


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## furyus (Nov 27, 2022)

juvela said:


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> banana appears perfectly showroom
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Your assessment is generous to a fault, and a splendid display of manners. Thank you kindly.


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## juvela (Nov 29, 2022)

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...searching for that banana bread recipe me aunt gave me...


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## furyus (Nov 29, 2022)

juvela said:


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> ...searching for that banana bread recipe me aunt gave me...
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Actually have a ‘nana recipe from another CABEr. Not going to need it for a while, though.


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## furyus (Dec 9, 2022)

Just a little bit of documentation before I tear it apart.

Looks like someone had some sissy bar issues back in the day. The original bar is long gone, and clamps from a Sears Spyder or similar remain even though they’re not doing anything. The axle-mount bar is a Schwinn accessory.









I’m speculating the seat post is frozen judging by where it’s been squished in some long-ago attempt at removal.





Three seconds and a little spit reveal decent paint under the dirt.





A few bricks shy of a full load.





Crank and sprocket under the same conditions, winner crank.





This used to be in mint condition.





Did you know anyone that got hurt by these fenders? I didn’t know anyone that got hurt by these fenders. Would’ve just walked it off, anyway.





Double-knurled, center-stamped Schwinn Tubular S2. Took me about half an hour to find it.






A couple of other Sting-Rays I’ve “restored“ over the years. This one will be the same/not same.









Just so happen to be “restoring“ a ‘67 SS396 4-speed Chevelle at work. Owner bought this car 50 years ago (1972) and parked it when he had kids. The tires are 40 years old. There is rust _everywhere. _Even the rust is rusted. We got it running, now we’re going to see if we can get it driving around the building. It’s going to take a bunch of work, and none of it is cosmetic. My ‘67 won’t cost nearly as much.





Guess I’ll start with the PB Blaster now...


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## furyus (Dec 10, 2022)

Baby steps. Surprised I got this far. Stem is frozen hard in the fork but I’ll let the PB Blaster do it’s stuff. Not in any hurry.


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## GTs58 (Dec 10, 2022)

Looks like you got the bolt loose, is the wedge stuck to the steerer tube?


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## furyus (Dec 10, 2022)

I suspect it is. Didn’t want to force anything. Shot some PB down the bolt hole after breaking the bolt. I could get the bolt out but I don’t want to lose contact with the wedge just yet. Bolt on the handlebar clamp broke easy, but I’m leaving them on for now for some leverage. This was maybe ten minutes of work, so I’m pleased with this much progress.


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## furyus (Dec 12, 2022)

Went ahead and pulled the bars off. Stem still firmly in place. Soaking with more PB Blaster. I have a feeling it’s going to be a good while before it comes apart.

The stock ‘67 handlebar has to be the ugliest ever - can’t stand ‘em. It definitely won’t be going back on my bike.


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## juvela (Dec 12, 2022)

furyus said:


> Went ahead and pulled the bars off. Stem still firmly in place. Soaking with more PB Blaster. I have a feeling it’s going to be a good while before it comes apart.
> 
> The stock ‘67 handlebar has to be the ugliest ever - can’t stand ‘em. It definitely won’t be going back on my bike.
> 
> View attachment 1749767





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were they contract produced by Wald or are they from another source?


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## furyus (Dec 12, 2022)

Schwinn stamped, I’ll assume Schwinn produced. Although I can see Schwinn trying to slough them off on Wald.


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## Rollo (Dec 12, 2022)

I agree on the drop down bars being ugly ... I put Wald wide bars on my '67 .. a lot more comfy and cool to ride! ...


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## furyus (Dec 13, 2022)

Much better choice, Rollo. Nice ‘67 you’ve got there.


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## furyus (Dec 16, 2022)

Still waiting on the PB Blaster to work its magic. Patience, Grasshopper!

In the meantime, there’s the other ‘67 at work.

Tire date code: 20th week of 1981.
What do we say around here? Good for display?





Real deal numbers-matching 396. We got it to run for 30 seconds or so then cut it off before we damaged anything. It’s coming out so we can get at a few things easier and poke around in the engine compartment. Check out the rust piles on top of the grill support - that’s all from the underside of the hood, and it rains down on you when you’re under it. 





This picture makes the interior look better than it really is, but heck, I’d drive it.





So first thing was a compression test, and she had some pretty good numbers; I think the lowest cylinder was about 172. Did an oil change and ran it for a few seconds to prove she still had a heartbeat. Next step is a completely new fuel system, from the gas cap out back all the way to the carburetor. Unfortunately, when we dropped the old gas tank, the braces that hold the tank straps just crumbled, and the trunk floor around them isn’t far behind. So we’re going to pause a little bit and send her over to the metal shop for a new trunk floor.





I’m very fortunate to work where I do for a variety of reasons, one of which is that we work on old American muscle cars exclusively. Some of the builds we’re doing would pay for a nice house in a lot of places, but I’m really digging this old Chevelle. I love rusty, old survivors, even if they have a foot in the grave like this one. Plus the dude has owned it since 1972 - just too cool.

Hope to have an update on my old ‘67 before long.


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## juvela (Dec 16, 2022)

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Thanks very much for the datum uppum!   😉 

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This image reminiscent of what greets me in the bathroom mirror when I get up in the mornin'.  😒


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## nick tures (Dec 16, 2022)

try some evaporust the stuff works good


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## furyus (Dec 16, 2022)

nick tures said:


> try some evaporust the stuff works good



I have used it before but for removing rust from individual parts. Seems PB is king of the hill for getting parts that have rusted together free. I do like evaporust, though.


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## GTs58 (Dec 16, 2022)

That poor Chevelle. 😢 

In the Summer of 1970 before my Senior year my Dad told me if sell my 57 Ford Ranch Wagon he would buy me a new car. Done deal, I got a 1967 Chevelle Malibu the same color as that one and the same interior with console and buckets. It was equipped with 275 HP 327 and powerglide. I ended up having to make the payments on it after I graduated from HS. I found out after looking at the original owner's manual that it was originally purchased by John J. Rhodes, the Arizona House Representative. It had 32,600 mi when I picked it up and 120,000 mi when I sold it in 1981. It's still my favorite body style for the Chevelles.


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## furyus (Dec 17, 2022)

GTs58 said:


> That poor Chevelle. 😢
> 
> In the Summer of 1970 before my Senior year my Dad told me if sell my 57 Ford Ranch Wagon he would buy me a new car. Done deal, I got a 1967 Chevelle Malibu the same color as that one and the same interior with console and buckets. It was equipped with 275 HP 327 and powerglide. I ended up having to make the payments on it after I graduated from HS. I found out after looking at the original owner's manual that it was originally purchased by John J. Rhodes, the Arizona House Representative. It had 32,600 mi when I picked it up and 120,000 mi when I sold it in 1981. It's still my favorite body style for the Chevelles.



Just a few years behind; we’re so fortunate to have been that age at that time.

It is a poor Chevelle, but the owner is doing his best to bring her back. I mean, it’s taking some commitment if you know what I mean.

In my mind, 66-67 was peak GM - the Chevelle, the Impala, the Corvette and the Corvair are all such clean designs; GM’s best. That said, I surely wouldn’t kick a ‘57 Ranch Wagon out of the garage, either.


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## furyus (Dec 17, 2022)

So we have got some reusable parts here!






1967 crank, but no big surprise.





This seat post, it’s in there. Previous removal attempts obvious. I’m taking it personal - the seat post will submit. Same with you, stem - don’t get too comfortable.





August 1967, one year older than my wife’s August ’68 Slik Chik. I am one year older than my wife as well. 





These wheels are rough. I’ve never stepped up and built a set of wheels even though I’ve had several dozen old bicycles. Always just buy a set. Not this time.





I’ve never rebuilt a coaster brake before, either.  Time to earn my merit badge.





I’m fortunate to have another bike to ride in the meantime; this project will take a little bit. Going to savor it.


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## juvela (Dec 17, 2022)

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wheelbuildin' -

can highly recommend the Robert Wright book _Building Bicycle Wheels_ fer lurnin':




for a more advanced treatise there is the Jobst Brandt tomus _The Bicycle Wheel:_





Happy nipple gripping!


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (Dec 17, 2022)

furyus said:


> So we have got some reusable parts here!
> 
> View attachment 1752738
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> ...



I suggest watching a few wheel building videos. There are only a few steps but they need to be repeated alot. The one that got me at first was getting the valve hole in correct place.


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## juvela (Dec 17, 2022)

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boot repair -

what be the plan?

will you cut out a floor from another car or cut a new floor from a sheet of scrap material?

sounds like one of those projects which might expand as you explore the extent of the heavy rust

may need to go further than originally thought to get to some good metal to weld to...

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## Andrew Gorman (Dec 17, 2022)

The clearest and best wheel building book I've found is at:





						Wheelbuilding book for cycle wheels 7th Edition
					

The Professional Guide to Wheel Building, by Roger Musson. A complete guide to building and repairing wheels with over 90 color photos and CAD drawings.




					www.wheelpro.co.uk
				



The Jobst Brandt book is more on theory and mathematics than practice.  It's not hard, so give it a try!


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## furyus (Dec 17, 2022)

Some good recommendations there, guys, thanks. All the bikes I’ve put together over the years, I always heard that little voice saying “you’ve gotta build the wheels to really make it yours” and I was like yeah yeah yeah. Actually looking forward to it now.


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## furyus (Dec 18, 2022)

juvela said:


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> boot repair -
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Actually, reproduction trunk floors, extensions and braces are made for this car (and a lot of others). Repairing rust is always like peeling an onion - you just never know what you’ll find. In this customer‘s favor, we’re not trying to “restore” this car, but return it to functionality, so as long as it’s safe, we‘re good.


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## furyus (Dec 20, 2022)

Opening up a second front on the rust. Frame and fork upside-down on my bench. Shooting PB Blaster down the seat tube from the crank housing, and into the fork from the fender mount screw hole. Probably leave it soaking through the holidays, with a few extra squirts now and then. Hope everyone has a nice Christmas.


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## juvela (Dec 21, 2022)

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just look at that clear workbench!

we can all be envious.  😉

great to see work is moving forward on this beast.

Merry Christmas


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## furyus (Dec 21, 2022)

juvela said:


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> View attachment 1755631
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You should have seen it 30 minutes earlier. At least the scars are there from many a battle. I cleaned it up in case Housing High Command dropped in for a spot cleanliness and welfare check.


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## Skiroule69 (Dec 22, 2022)

Looks like the paint will clean up nicely! Going to polish up what's there or do a full resto?


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## furyus (Dec 22, 2022)

Skiroule69 said:


> Looks like the paint will clean up nicely! Going to polish up what's there or do a full resto?



Rather than restore, I prefer to arrest the decay. Plus I don't need to worry about the chain guard screw being incorrect for a '67 etcetera ad nauseum (though I'm guilty of leveling those charges myself).


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## furyus (Dec 30, 2022)

So with nearly 3 weeks soaking in the PB Blaster, I put the seat post in a vise and used the frame as leverage. It moved! Then it tore. Oops.






Took it to the shop. We have ways of making things work. There’s the ’67 396 in the background.





Applying a butterfly of flame.





OK, let’s make it even hotter.





Will. Not. Budge. Cut it off!





Found something to use as a punch and buried the remaining post with an air hammer. Not much can resist the air hammer. It’s buried now, with plenty of room for a new post. Top of the seat tube is a little beat up, though.





The stem cried uncle with flame. Bonus that the wedge came out of the fork, too.





Took her back home, slipped a new (to the bike) seat post in and reshaped the seat tube with my vise. Got the clamp mocked up on there and we’re back to functional.





One last hurdle: getting the fork loose from the frame. The headset was a little stubborn, but eventually came free.





These bearings haven’t been out in the light in a long time. No balls missing. You know I’ll be able to clean them up and repack them and they’ll be as good as new. USA! USA!





The end of the beginning:


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## furyus (Dec 31, 2022)

Just a little experimenting this evening. I dig original paint and all the scars left after 55 years. All the paint on this bike will be left as is other than several cleanings with and coatings of Gibb’s Penetrating Oil. Love the stuff. Within a few hours of application it’s dry to the touch but still leaves a sheen, unlike silicones like WD40 that stay slimy.

Before and after one application on the guard. I expect the bike will get 3 or 4 treatments before it goes back together.









I treated the right fork leg, and a couple of sections of the inside left fork leg. I apply Gibb’s by spraying a quarter-sized dollop onto a paper towel and then rubbing it into whatever I’m treating. I use it on paint and bare metal. After 2 or 3 coats Gibb’s gives paint or raw metal a really deep, rich color. Being oil, it also cuts off all oxygen to the surface, so oxidation and corrosion is arrested, at least for a good long time.





Highly recommend Gibb’s if you’re looking for a good penetrating oil. I should have used it instead of the PB Blaster, frankly. That headset wouldn’t come apart yesterday after 3 weeks of PB, but 30 minutes worth of Gibb’s later, I took it apart by hand.





My wife’s Slik Chik has never been touched with soap or wax since I put it together back in ‘11. Nothing but Gibb’s. Still looks spectacular, and I don’t think I’ve treated it in at least a couple of years. It’s dusty, but that’ll come right off.





Hope everyone has a great new year.


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## juvela (Jan 1, 2023)

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thanks so much for sharing these updates

was surprised at the failure of the saddle pillar extraction

me crystal ball showed that your savvy and patience would extract both stem and saddle pillar without further damage

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OT interrogative -

is Union Frondenberg the manufacturer of the rubber pedals on the Slik Chik?


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## furyus (Jan 2, 2023)

juvela said:


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> thanks so much for sharing these updates
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Thanks, juvela. I don’t think anyone has ever used “your savvy” in a comment regarding me, so thank you for that, too. As much as I love rust, I couldn’t let the rust beat me.

The pedals on my wife’s Slik Chik are stamped “Made in Germany” so I assume they’re Unions. The end caps are scuffed up pretty bad, but I believe they had remnants of the Schwinn cross on them. They’re probably the weakest bits on the bike, and they’re still nice. I know if I tried to install a cleaner set my wife would not allow it - they’ve been there since before we were married.


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## furyus (Jan 2, 2023)

I should add that those pedals aren’t ”correct” for a ‘68 Slik Chik, and neither is the seat, but I don’t pretend to build museum pieces. My wife _loves _the seat, and made the streamers herself to match, as well as finding and arranging the flowers in the basket.


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