# WD40 Rust Remover Soak



## Pantmaker

Hands down, this is my new favorite derusting solution.  It sells for $25 a gallon which is completely insane to me but there is a $10 rebate so I took the plunge. I have derusted every conceivable metal and plating combination with breathtaking results. The rust is simply gone each time leaving paint or plating undisturbed. Here is a fender brace that I stuck into the solution. It was clean within 30 minutes so I left it soaking over night to see if it would strip the plating too over time. It's like new.


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## vincev

Thanks.Good to know


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## bikecrazy

I am going to give it a try. Where did you find it?


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## Pantmaker

Sorry...bought it at home depot...I just submerged this rocket ray bottom half and will post the after pics.


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## Euphman06

Cool! Cant wait to see the results on the light


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## rollfaster

I have some hoops I need to soak in that stuff.


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## Euphman06

rollfaster said:


> I have some hoops I need to soak in that stuff.




Yes! I will have to tackle the rims on my Colson this summer with this stuff.


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## GiovanniLiCalsi

Oxalic acid works wonders and is very mild remover.
Less expensive. The vintage oil can collectors swear by this method. Strips the rust and nothing more.


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## Pantmaker

Here is the light after 12 hours. No rust left but it is piled high with sludge from dirt and debris. I didnt clean it at all before the soaking. The paint didnt budge. It should clean up nicely now.


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## Honestherman

No matter how hard I try or what I do. Rust is always there to stay. Unless I remove enough metal to get thru all of the rust. On Chrome rust comes from small holes that are in the Chrome. I can remove the surface rust which is mostly what I see. But it is still there, Just not so visible. 
I remove a lot of surface rust on my items. But I know it is still there.

After I remove enough surface rust it is possible for me to recoat or reseal those holes and prevent air from getting to the tiny bits of rust. This will put it to sleep for a while. At least until I scratch the protective seal again.

I was at a show one time and had a lot of time on my hands. I used tin foil and removed a lot of surface rust. One time I used Steel wool. But I knew I was only removing the surface. Just like in this case.


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## oskisan

This is a great lead... thanks for the info. I am definitely going to get some to try it out.

Thanks,
Ken


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## schwinnbikebobb

I would like to see a side by side comparison between this and Evaporust.  Pants, do you use Evaporust?


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## Pantmaker

I have never used evaporust but I have been wondering since I bought this jug if it was a similar product. Thanks for the comment.



schwinnbikebobb said:


> I would like to see a side by side comparison between this and Evaporust.  Pants, do you use Evaporust?


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## Pantmaker

For the prewar junkies out there. I had these laying around and had put them in the lost cause pile based on age and level of rust involved.  This  wheel was in the solution for 8 hours. I really cant believe how much plating was still under there. OA would have destroyed this delicate plating.


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## DirtNerd

How does it do with zinc plating?


Sent from my garage


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## Jeff54

That is working nicely, however, WD-40 dries out in a short time, maybe a few weeks a month or two depending on conditions so you'll need to discover something to get it out and off the bare metal. Including, out from under the coated areas, paint or chrome, nickel, or whatever type of plating. , and then seal it. Otherwise, once it's dried out, it'll sneak right back on ya. Typically a good degreaser has worked for me.. That is, I've used it on my hands when they've gotten hard grease or roofing asphalt coatings that are  real tough to clean off hands.. After WD thins it I use a strong degreaser to get the WD off.

Incidentally when you have super hard crusty dirt that's too difficult to get off and or where you can't get too it, Olive oil soak can break it loose nicely.


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## vincev

looks like it is worth the money.


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## GTs58

Jeff54 said:


> That is working nicely, however, WD-40 dries out in a short time, maybe a few weeks a month or two depending on conditions so you'll need to discover something to get it out and off the bare metal. Including, out from under the coated areas, paint or chrome, nickel, or whatever type of plating. , and then seal it. Otherwise, once it's dried out, it'll sneak right back on ya. Typically a good degreaser has worked for me.. That is, I've used it on my hands when they've gotten hard grease or roofing asphalt coatings that are  real tough to clean off hands.. After WD thins it I use a strong degreaser to get the WD off.
> 
> Incidentally when you have super hard crusty dirt that's too difficult to get off and or where you can't get too it, Olive oil soak can break it loose nicely.




Looks like you missed the boat once again. I know you said that you read legal docs and contracts for a living but I strongly suggest that you take a few reading comprehensive classes at your local community college. The OP is not using "WD-40" to remove the rust so your suggestion is null and void in this instance. The OP even included a picture of the product in his first post, so you must have missed that also.  

And may I reciprocat? 

*My mistake GT, you do make an ass of yourself too frequently . *


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## partsguy

Pantmaker said:


> Hands down, this is my new favorite derusting solution.  It sells for $25 a gallon which is completely insane to me but there is a $10 rebate so I took the plunge. I have derusted every conceivable metal and plating combination with breathtaking results. The rust is simply gone each time leaving paint or plating undisturbed. Here is a fender brace that I stuck into the solution. It was clean within 30 minutes so I left it soaking over night to see if it would strip the plating too over time. It's like new.View attachment 202717





Where did you get this at?


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## Honestherman

GTs58 said:


> Looks like you missed the boat once again. I know you said that you read legal docs and contracts for a living but I strongly suggest that you take a few reading comprehensive classes at your local community college. The OP is not using "WD-40" to remove the rust so your suggestion is null and void in this instance. The OP even included a picture of the product in his first post, so you must have missed that also.
> 
> And may I reciprocat?
> 
> *My mistake GT, you do make an ass of yourself too frequently . *





I read Jeff54 statement and understood that he was using the WD 40 Derusting solution. Not just straight WD 40. 
I also want to know about Olive Oil Soak. 
Does that mean I go to the store and get some Extra Virgin Olive Oil and soak my stuff or is there an Olive Oil Soak,Soap in the store?
Also Has anyone painted after soaking an item in this solution. Sometimes when you soak metal in oil it is very difficult to get the oil removed enough to paint properly.

My comment is not meant to upset anyone or insult anyone. It is a Serious Question.

Thanks


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## Duck

Honestherman said:


> I read Jeff54 statement and understood that he was using the WD 40 Derusting solution. Not just straight WD 40.
> I also want to know about Olive Oil Soak.
> Does that mean I go to the store and get some Extra Virgin Olive Oil and soak my stuff or is there an Olive Oil Soak,Soap in the store?
> Also Has anyone painted after soaking an item in this solution. Sometimes when you soak metal in oil it is very difficult to get the oil removed enough to paint properly.
> 
> My comment is not meant to upset anyone or insult anyone. It is a Serious Question.
> 
> Thanks



Just use a Simple Green soak on your bike parts, and olive oil w/ vinegar on your salad, like everyone else.


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## rickyd

That rim looks amazing I'm gonna look into this. Rick


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## Jeff54

Honestherman said:


> I read Jeff54 statement and understood that he was using the WD 40 Derusting solution. Not just straight WD 40.
> I also want to know about Olive Oil Soak.
> Does that mean I go to the store and get some Extra Virgin Olive Oil and soak my stuff or is there an Olive Oil Soak,Soap in the store?Thanks




 I couldn't answer for what olive oil would do for your personal hygiene. (edit) first read, I though you said humorously: " soak my self") LOL 

However, it's what ancient metal artifacts are soaked in once they're so crusted with dirt, grim and corrosion the only thing otherwise, to break the top surface lose would be abrasives. In recent times, countries like Ukraine, and neighboring areas who have not restricted or out lawed exportation of Greek/Roman artifacts, have been scoring the country side with metal detectors and finding buried bounty. Both greek and Romans were major war mongers, robbing, pillaging bounty was the solder's battle rewards. Hell, after and  long after them, war mongering capitals followed suite too. However, they'd bury their treasures before entering a battle. Guess what happened if ya got killed? 

I used Olive oil on several metal ancient artifacts which were recently dug from these areas. 

Not a good idea to scrub gold wit metal brushes eh. The black on this is most likely ancient human grease or scum from handling maybe even ancient dried blood. . .. If I took it all off, it would then be too difficult to see the impressions. 






In the case the op claimed he had not cleaned it, 
"Here is the light after 12 hours. No rust left but it is piled high with sludge from dirt and debris. I didnt clean it at all before the soaking. The paint didnt budge. It should clean up nicely now." 

if there was crusty hard stuff in the areas the WD couldn't get off or be able to get a brass brush into prior to a soak, Hard crusted grease or even hardened, crystalized battery acid..  Olive oil can soften it up without damaging the metal or paint within the difficult areas to get into.  after that, the rust would likely still be there but encapsulated with the olive oil,  so, then, the WD soak could get the rust and break down the olive oil, out from under the dirt and grim it may not have been able to soak through previously. . . . 

As for differences between WD soak and lubricant.. It's better to presume it's the same formula or close and insure hydrated iron oxide is not deep inside the pits encapsulated by it so it won't come back to haunt ya, then wait fer Murphy. (ref: Murphy's law)

Moreoever if you've got black spots left on the metal, You've got hydrated iron oxide waiting for any type of humidity to activate it. 

Then of course, If that's not comprehensible for a few here,, they might be too big of an ass for this info to break through their own crust, except for a complete drowning in Olive oil, I doubt it would be a solution . . Olive Oil wont soften rock hard heads back to any type of usefulness. .


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## vincev

Olive oit gets costly.


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## TammyN

Does the solution turn black like Evaporust? (It's my mission to figure out what's in Evaporust and the like.)
Also, I'm wondering why olive oil would work better than cheaper vegetable oil?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Jeff54

TammyN said:


> Also, I'm wondering why olive oil would work better than cheaper vegetable oil?




It's a good question. One of which I spent much time trying to resolve, to cut the expense of course. But, Everybody who discussed cleaning, all said; Olive Oil, a few said; not vegetable oil.  Yet, nobody gave any reason as to what's so special about it. I guess Olive oil has some type of minor, natural acidic chemical balanced within it's properties just right or, its molecular structure is small than other oils, maybe both.


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## WES PINCHOT

Why not vinegar?


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## rustjunkie

TammyN said:


> Does the solution turn black like Evaporust?




Looks like it does. Mfr suggests reusing but keeping separate from clean solution, discard when black.

[video=youtube;oIWl2s4APXw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIWl2s4APXw[/video]


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## Artifex

TammyN said:


> Does the solution turn black like Evaporust? (It's my mission to figure out what's in Evaporust and the like.)




Turning the rust black sounds an awful lot like a phosphoric acid product like "Ospho".  The hot rodders and car resto guys swear by Ospho; this is the first I have heard of Evaporust.


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## Duck

FWIW; I'm on my 2nd jug of Evaporust and I've been reusing it for nearly a year now, and it still works almost as fast as when first opened. The first jug lost it's effectiveness much sooner than this time around, however- the difference being I made it a point after buying this batch to thoroughly clean ALL dirt/ grease from the part before soaking.


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## lgibster

Pantmaker said:


> For the prewar junkies out there. I had these laying around and had put them in the lost cause pile based on age and level of rust involved.  This  wheel was in the solution for 8 hours. I really cant believe how much plating was still under there. OA would have destroyed this delicate plating.
> View attachment 203218




I have just tried Metal Rescue for the first time.  I figured this rusted rim was not going to clean up.  This photo is straight out of the Metal Rescue, with no rinsing or scrubbing.  I didn't use anything on the rim first either.




The set up I used involved a plastic $5 sheetrock mud tray from Home Depot.  I just rotated the rim to submerge part of the rim at a time.


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