# 1964 Schwinn Traveler 3-Speed



## SirMike1983 (Nov 23, 2021)

I sold off two very nice, vintage English bikes at the start of November and figured that was my "good deed" around the house for awhile. I had, for some time, filled the back of the garage with my bicycles, and the Mrs. had at last reached the point that an ultimatum was set down and a couple had to go. So off they went - a 1951 Raleigh Clubman and a 1930s-40s Phillips rod brake. 

As luck would have it, one of the eBay sellers who auctions old bikes off in fair volume came up with a very nice 1964 Schwinn Traveler for sale. The tall frame caught my eye, and so back into the tank I went. The project arrived last week, and I've been at it a little each evening ever since. The bike is now apart in my basement, and the process of cleaning the parts has begun. It is quite original and in very good condition overall.






I cleaned and went over the Sturmey AW rear hub last weekend. All bearings and bearing surfaces look very good. The cones actually indicate very low mileage because they have not been fully "worn in" by use. The bearing balls are clean, smooth, and shiny. There are some add-on reflectors on the wheels, and there is some wear to the brakes indicating there was some use, but I don't think this saw much mileage overall.





The wheel rims are very clean, with no dings or dents. There is no visible brake wear to the rims sides. The rim wells are rust free, which is a good indication of a well-stored bike.





I also cleaned, polished, and greased the brake calipers. My appreciation of the Weinmann 810 type calipers has gone way up over the years. I kind of took them for granted at one time because of how common they were. But comparing them to other period equipment, they're lightweight, easy to get parts for, and they work fairly well. They're by no means a modern brake in terms of raw stopping power, but for their day, they were pretty good brakes when properly adjusted.

Below is a before and after with one caliper as-found and one already done. The polish I've used is Simichrome, followed by an acetone wipe-down to remove residue.





The Weinmann red dot brake levers are also in good shape.





Chrome parts are excellent overall and responded nicely to cleaning and some Simichrome polishing.





There is still much more to do, but the project is underway. My lighting for it is on the way as well. I'll be using a Soma Fabrication Torpedo Mk.2 head light and a Soma silver bullet tail light. They'll provide good, LED lights with a retro look that is appropriate to a 1960s-era bike.

I'll also put up progress updates on my bike blog at: https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/


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## SirMike1983 (Nov 26, 2021)

Large cap bow pedals are cleaned and re-greased. I used needle nose pliers like a bottle opener to "pop" the end cap off each pedal. The rest is pretty conventional. They're of decent quality and serviceable, which is good. They seem to have pretty low mileage on them.


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## SirMike1983 (Nov 27, 2021)




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## SirMike1983 (Nov 29, 2021)

Grips cleaned up fairly well. I recommend John Deere Ultraguard for the rubber parts. It does a good job, just not the easiest stuff to find.


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## Schwinny (Dec 1, 2021)

Nice, Nice, Nice.
Just a heads up on those reflectors...
 If those are 60's Schwinn accessory spoke reflectors in good condition, they are a find in themselves.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 2, 2021)

I'll take a look at the reflectors again. I was under the impression when I pulled them that they're an aftermarket add-on from the 70s, but maybe there's a label on them somewhere that would say who made them.

Working on the wheels now. The rims are cosmetically good, but the front rim in particular is out of round and doesn't want to be drawn back to shape. I don't have a Cyclus rim jack, so perhaps replacement is in order. I do have some spare S5 rims/wheels around I can draw from if need be. But the front at least has the telltale sign where the rim hops in and out length-wise, and where it takes max tension on one side and min tension on the other to hold side-to-side trueness.

I may end up investing in a Cyclus rim jack tool. I have a set of stainless S6 wheels from the 1940s that have the same issue as this front S5 rim has.

The back rim seems a little better, though is somewhat out of round as well. That one might be fixable if I go back and try truing it again, and devote some real time to it. 

The rims and wheels are so clean that I figured a simple side-to-side truing would be it, but something happened that sent these rims out of round. I wonder if that sidelined the bike and explains the low mileage on all the bearings, drive train, etc. that I'm seeing.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 3, 2021)

It's gradually coming together. Pardon the yellow work rag... Usually these kinds of bikes are utilitarian workhorses - commuting to work or school, paper route, delivery route, etc. I'm glad I located a nice tall frame example of the Traveler. The stainless fenders are pretty posh.





I'm going with Kool Stop inserts for the old brake pad holders.





And I'll be going with Soma Frabrications retro LED lights for head light and tail light. They run on AAA batteries and are pretty well-made. They are not cheap, but they are definitely a cut above the usual $15 cheapo LEDs you see on eBay or Amazon.


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## Schwinny (Dec 5, 2021)

Exceptionally clean. Very nice example.
If those are Schwinn reflectors it will be molded into them around the edges with the numbers.
Last pair I found was on a mid sixties bike and they paid for the bike.
DOT approved reflector and lens numbers also "reflect" the date of manufacture. That bike didn't come with them so you can tell when they were purchased and installed.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 6, 2021)

Thanks. These say Stimsonite 85 on them. I'm thinking they're from the 1970s maybe(?). These look older than the 1980s era white-colored ones, but I don't think they're mid-1960s either. The bike had its original white wall tires, but newer Bontrager tubes (they're actually decent tubes), so the bike has been to the shop a couple times probably over the years. Maybe the reflectors went on during a shop visit. 

The wheels are cleaned and trued finally. I had to do a swap-out for the front rim, but I had another early 1960s S5 in my pile that is in good enough condition to use with the bike. I also swapped the front axle because it got bent in shipping (again dipped into the pile - benefits of hoarding stuff, I guess). 

I need to to see what I can do with the chain next. I normally go straight to a new SRAM chain if I'm going to be riding a lot because they run so smoothly and I don't have to deal with old chain wear. But given the apparently low mileage, this one is worth seeing if I can add a couple links to the old chain and re-use that. I'm thinking put it in the ultrasonic cleaner with some Simple Green or water-based de-greaser.


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## rennfaron (Dec 6, 2021)

Pretty sure those large cap pedals ended mid 60s. The prices for ones in that condition are up there. Those almost look NOS.

Travelers in this condition only pop up every now and then. I saw it briefly before it sold, so you snagged it up pretty quick. A few things changed for '63 to '64: these saddle went to that S seat; went from the fatter hockey stick guard to the thinner style; head badged changed to the larger painted oval badge. Without looking I am pretty sure the had the white grips with painted Schwinn text on the '63 model (those look NOS as well). I have a '63 back large frame model in real nice condition I haven't got to yet.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 6, 2021)

Yeah, I bought not long after it listed. I take a few minutes each day to browse the various vintage bike and auction sites just to see what is popping up. The tall frame, condition, and the fact that it had some of the old-style features sold it for me. I paid what I would think of as "retail" for the project. It wasn't a steal, but it was in such nice shape that I just bit the bullet and went ahead. The three speeds turn up with a lot of wear or replaced stuff on them usually because they were a utilitarian thing in those days. The stainless fenders in particular tend to turn up scratched and dented all to hell. This one is really, really nice, and pretty complete. It was missing the rear reflector and housing, but I had one of each in my stash to use.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 6, 2021)




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## atilly (Dec 9, 2021)

SirMike1983 said:


> John Deere Ultraguard



... and provides protection for damage caused by severe weather, vandalism, overturn, collision or theft.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 9, 2021)

I did a test on some petrified 1940s Schwinn grips awhile back. I had one control (no treatment), one left in a bag soaking in Armorall for 2 weeks and one left in a bag soaking in Ultraguard for two weeks. 

The control was as petrified 2 weeks later as when it started.

The Armorall grip seemed like it might (?) be a slightly softer, but mainly it was just kind of shiny and greasy feeling. I guess it looked a little better, but functionally I saw no real improvement.

The Ultraguard grip was noticeably softer, though Ultraguard did not restore any real resilience to the grip. The grip also seemed to puff up a little bit, but mainly it was softer and had more give to it. As I said, it did not restore much resilience because the grip was too far gone. But it does show that Ultraguard can help soften and perhaps save grips that are borderline. It will not save grips that are already petrified or badly cracked. The downside was that the Ultraguard actually made the surface rubber a little gummy/gooey. Two weeks is evidently too long of a soak, even for an old petrified grip. But it does show some chemical interaction beyond what the Armorall was doing.

There is no substitute for fresh grips if you want something that is both pliable and resilient. But Ultraguard at least offers some chance to help old grips that might still be usable.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 17, 2021)

I'm still working on this bike, a little each night. I'm going to go with a new SRAM PC-1 nickel plated chain. I was not too happy with the wheel spacing in the dropouts using the old Union chain. The Union cleaned up pretty well, but the SRAM centered the wheel in the dropout slots much, much better than the Union. The Union only gave the choices of max forward or max back, which then brings into play fender gap issues. With the SRAM, I set the length using the chain breaker and it just locks right in at the center of the dropout. So SRAM chain it will be...


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## GTs58 (Dec 17, 2021)

I've seen lots of lightweights were the rear fender gaps are horrendous and some are so far off I don't think having the correct sized chain would even help. Was there a manufacturing issue that may be causing that?


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## rennfaron (Dec 17, 2021)

Seen it too. Also, the rear fenders have a mounting tab that connects between the seat stays. The rear fender mounting tab placement was located differently per each frame size (19", 21", 23"). The overall fender size is the same, just the tab moves slightly in either direction to accommodate the different geometry in frame sizes. Sometimes these get swapped out over time with a size that didn't match the original size. That can add to weird gaps as the fender will still mount in most cases. The hardest fender sizing to find are for the 23" frame as those frame sizes don't turn up as often in the 40s, 50s and early 60s lightweights.


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## GTs58 (Dec 17, 2021)

This is the most common situation that I come across. To fix this issue the stays, seat stay fender bracket and kickstand tube all have to be modified and or relocated. Axle appears to be placed pretty much center of the drop out slot. The top fender mounting is locked in for height and the fender is not a perfect radius so what can be done at this point?


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 17, 2021)

This one was a case of the Union either causing the wheel to go all the way to the back of the dropout, or if you shortened the chain a link, left it all the way at the mouth. The SRAM chain placed the wheel right in the center of the drop and everything was great. I've never had a whole lot of luck getting old chains to set up correctly with a new, larger rear cog. I've had a great deal of luck with new SRAM chains, which seem to set up the wheel in a good position. I thought, maybe chain wear on the old ones, but this Union didn't have a lot of wear. And yet, it would not set the wheel in the dropout very well.


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## Schwinny (Dec 17, 2021)

SirMike1983 said:


> This one was a case of the Union either causing the wheel to go all the way to the back of the dropout, or if you shortened the chain a link, left it all the way at the mouth. The SRAM chain placed the wheel right in the center of the drop and everything was great. I've never had a whole lot of luck getting old chains to set up correctly with a new, larger rear cog. I've had a great deal of luck with new SRAM chains, which seem to set up the wheel in a good position. I thought, maybe chain wear on the old ones, but this Union didn't have a lot of wear. And yet, it would not set the wheel in the dropout very well.



Is it sacrilege, or would a half link not work?
The fender thing has always un-nerved me but Im used to it now.
Im sitting here spinning a chain around in my head and Im wondering how a 1/2" -1/8th Union is a different length than the SRAM. 1/2" and 1/8" are specific measurements, I would imagine them to be the same in length per link.
I guess just a few thousandths per link might not make a big difference at 100 links but which companies chain is the thousandths off?
Probably stretch huh? Although by the looks of the pedals, this bike hasn't been ridden much.
Interesting.


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## atilly (Dec 17, 2021)

Thanks to you guys, I will never be able to "un-see" a wheel not centered within the fender.

Like most of my bright ideas, folks have already had the same thought, only yesterday. But here goes:

The picture makes things look like the "seat stay fender bracket" is the culprit. I realize when I try to fix this issue on my bikes there is hardly any room to raise this area but worth a try.
I have had a modicum of success spreading or narrowing the fender stays themselves to take up or release the radius they hold.
(yeah, I had to ask didn't I?)

I own a blue racer, seems close in age, not as nice, but has the nifty tear dropped shiftier too.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 17, 2021)

A half-link is where the Union chain would go next. Is there a particular half-link made today for the old-style roller chains? The ones I am finding are all the bushingless type.

The nickel SRAM chain looks nice for sure. I have some time to play around with it if need be. Riding season is probably done for 3 - 4 months.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 18, 2021)

Making decent progress. I still have to make a shifter cable, but the project is getting close to done. I also have to put the lights on. I have a couple retro LED lights I will be using that run on AAA batteries. I like how old lights look, but the output is just plain anemic compared to LED. So there are a couple of things left, but it is coming along nicely. I'm going with a B66 saddle instead of the original vinyl. The original is in pretty good shape, but I just find the B66 a more comfortable saddle.


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## Schwinny (Dec 18, 2021)

Pretty sweet.
I have been on a kick to convert all bulbs in my life to LED and just recently I got a pair of those cheap Chinese 3-LED headlamps (3-AAA) to put on one of my bikes and it got me looking around.
There are conversion bulbs to replace the old style in these bike headlamps and they are much brighter. You just have to match the base style. Most of them are wide range in that they will work using 3-12 volts.
I converted an old Miller dynamo headlamp to batteries and now I think I'll add an LED bulb too.
Heres a representtive bulb...



			Amazon.com


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Dec 23, 2021)

very cool bike. I was surprised to see the _Schwinn Approved_ script brake calipers on a '64. I thought they would be earlier.


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## SirMike1983 (Jan 31, 2022)

This project has been on somewhat of a hiatus, though it's almost done. I located a half-link so that I can re-visit the issue of whether or not I can re use the old chain. 

And I think it may be worth revisiting the clamp I used on the tail light, maybe to go with something a little stouter. I'm converting most of my bikes to LED lights for the coming season. The lights I am using are Soma/Kiley torpedo headlights and Soma Silver Bullet tail lights. They're some of the better LED retro lights offered, but the stock mounting kits that come with them fall a little short. So I've been making my own clamps and adapting what I can use/make.  The headlights have been straight forward to mount, but the tail light clamps I've made are trial and error things.


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## SirMike1983 (Mar 18, 2022)

Decided to go instead with a honey-colored Brooks B66 and a Banjo Brothers barrel bag. 





Soma Silver Bullet goes well on this bike and provides plenty of light from its LED.


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