# Headset and BB cup removal help



## Nick-theCut (Nov 16, 2012)

Hey guys what is the proper way to remove these cups for replating and repainting?  I'm working with crusty prewar stuff, do I need a torch?
Who has done this and had luck?


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## abe lugo (Nov 17, 2012)

Nick, there is no image attached, but I imagine the real proper way to remove any cups is with a remover tool similar to how motorcycle neck cups are pressed in, but opposite pressure. a set of two piece parts that get put into a neck and then a bolt is ran though them and screwed to press out the cups evenly. I use a long cylinder punch and tap it out from across the other side evenly. If they are really seized, the you need to soak it for about a week with some kroil and try again. That is for press fit cups.

Something similar to this see item 380409677155 on eBay, but the center pieces would be two parts and a ring and assemble inside the tube and hold together when pressure is applied out ward


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## HIGGINSFOREVER (Nov 17, 2012)

I just use a long flat point drift pin and tap one side out then go to the other side.I have tapped out well over a 100 and never had a problem.


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## Buster1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Nick,

Heavy soak in penetration oil, then tap out with a flathead screwdriver working around in a circle as you go.  Go easy, tap away in a circle and eventually it will pop out.


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## Nick-theCut (Nov 17, 2012)

Have you guys used any sort of adhesive when you install them upon completion?  Or is it just squeezed back in?


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## HIGGINSFOREVER (Nov 17, 2012)

Nick-theCut said:


> Have you guys used any sort of adhesive when you install them upon completion?  Or is it just squeezed back in?




No need for adhesive just use rubber mallet If you dont have a mallet use a block of wood to protect the chrome on the headset.


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## Nick-theCut (Nov 17, 2012)

Thanks gents


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## bike (Nov 17, 2012)

*brass drift punch wont nick ( theoretically )- softer than tool steel*

interference fit means no sealant


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## Buster1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Nick-theCut said:


> Have you guys used any sort of adhesive when you install them upon completion?  Or is it just squeezed back in?




If you need adhesive, you may have the wrong cups.  A wise bike mechanic told me once to lightly grease the cup outside, where it will meet the frame cyclinder.  This will fight rust and make subsequent cup removals super easy.


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## bobcycles (Nov 17, 2012)

*don't laugh...*

I use old Seat posts....  the bottom edge and just tap em out with a hammer or mallet on the old post.  Doesn't 'gouge' the cups and they pop right out!
CAVEMAN STYLE BABY!


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## Nick-theCut (Nov 17, 2012)

Brilliant Bob great tip, I figured my flat head screw driver might "gouge" the inside of the cup.


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## Andrew Gorman (Nov 17, 2012)

I used to get by with a piece of broomstick, but I really like my Park headset remover:
http://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-oversized-rt-2

As usual, any tool can be the right tool but having the proper tool makes life a lot easier.


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## bike (Nov 17, 2012)

*I am rusty*



Buster1 said:


> If you need adhesive, you may have the wrong cups.  A wise bike mechanic told me once to lightly grease the cup outside, where it will meet the frame cyclinder.  This will fight rust and make subsequent cup removals super easy.




Have not worked on a bike in a while... greasing (or never seize) cups seat post and all hardware always a great idea- I remember from working on cars some specified the torque on lubricated bolts...


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## fuzzyktu (Nov 22, 2012)

I always use a brass drift.  That park tool is sweet.


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## Nick-theCut (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks everyone.  They came out extremely easy with everyone's help.
My head tube was 8" long so the seat post wasn't long enough.  The park tool seemed like it would cost more money than I wanted to spend.  For $2.89 I got a 10" machine screw at Ace Harware.
Easy stuff, just never did it. Thanks agin


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## Iverider (Dec 3, 2012)

I use a piece of steel electrical conduit (only because I have no extra seatposts) Usually pops the cup out with 8-10 decent whacks with no damage, and no headtube ovalization. I've used screwdrivers and punches in the past, but I like having something about a foot and a half long so I don't jam my hand into the head tube when the cup pops out. 

I've also thought about making a Park-like tool by laterally cutting a piece of metal tubing and then putting a cap on the end. I guess I'm lazy, and the piece of conduit works just fine.

To install them I use a deadblow mallet and a piece of wood on the top of the cup. The wood will ensure you don't deform the race and drive it in fairly square.

You can also make a headset cup installation tool using a piece of 1/2" all-thread and the appropriate sized nuts and washers. Make sure you get thick washers, or double them up to ensure no bending occurs. I still use the piece of wood and a mallet.






I stole this photo from somewhere online to give you an idea. I don't think you need the plastic washers under the nut, but it may make it easier to tighten.


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