# Trick to removing a badge safely



## pkleppert (Dec 28, 2020)

Necessity is the mother of invention.  Tried to remove a "UnionJack" badge from a 1949 Schwinn. The two tiny screws were totally stuck and would not budge. Tried soaking them with no luck. 
Ever remember using a torch to loosen a nut? Well, I took a soldering iron directly to the head of the tiny screw.  Really got that little screw very hot.  They both came loose immediately. So simple!


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## Junkman Bob (Dec 28, 2020)

Any pictures of badge or process 

Bob


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## Freqman1 (Dec 28, 2020)

Do a Google search for "heat wrench"--same concept. V/r Shawn


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## Gordon (Dec 29, 2020)

Sounds like a good method. I used to get so frustrated trying to remove those screws with a little screwdriver. The handle would be so small I couldn't get much purchase on it and if I could the blade would twist. I started using a 1/4 inch wide wood chisel. Nice big handle, sharp tip made of good steel - works great,


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## GiovanniLiCalsi (Dec 29, 2020)

Amazon.com


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## Boris (Dec 29, 2020)

...and when your ready to put 'em back in,  poke 'em into the corner of a piece of paper so you have something manageable to grab on to while you're screwing them in. when nearly tight, rip the paper away. I forget who on the CABE suggested that, but it's a great tip.


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## SirMike1983 (Dec 29, 2020)

A couple of things - the screws on the headbadge are often like the very small screws on a typewriter, or firearm. I get better bite on them using a hollow ground, very small screw driver as one would use on a pair of eyeglasses or the sort you get in the precision driver sets for firearms repair. A wedge type or woodworking screw driver usually will not work as well as a very small, hollow ground type (again, think eyeglass repair, firearms repair, etc).

I start by trying to just loosen without heat, oil or anything else. If you can just loosen it the plain way, all the better. If you can't do it with just the correct-fitting screwdriver, then I try a little mechanical help. I take small block of wood or very small mallet, and tap the handle of the driver gently as I try loosening the screw. This is the miniature version of the impact driver. You're just jarring the gunk or corrosion loose. This often will get the screws loose because they're not held in by much, except for years of gunk or modest corrosion. Resist the temptation to strike hard - you don't want to flatten the head tube or ruin the threads. After you succeed with this method a couple times, you basically will have the hang of it.

I only resort to heat after those other means have failed. The reason for this is that working with heat, you start to narrow the margin for error. The gunk holding the screw in place and the paint you want to keep both have a scorch point. You're good as long as the paint's scorch point is higher than the gunk. A soldering iron, as you have found, gives you a little more control than any open flame would. 

The screws are generally very soft metal and deform quickly, so don't force anything with these unless you are fine with replacing the screws.


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## pkleppert (Dec 30, 2020)

Wow! Never thought this post would gather such great info all in one place.  Thanks everyone.  PK


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## pkleppert (Dec 30, 2020)

Junkman Bob said:


> Any pictures of badge or process
> 
> Bob



Did it like this.


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