# Murray built Elgin Toolbox bicycle datecode help?  Restore?  1939?



## hcdsign (Feb 4, 2012)

Hello, I am looking for some help dating a Murray built Elgin toolbox bicycle.  I recently purchased a pair of his and hers pre-war Elgins.  The ladies Elgin will be sacrificed as needed in the name of the mens Elgin Toolbox bicycle.  The Toolbox bike is complete for the most part with the tins, aircooled hubs, correct era tires, ect., however it was missing the correct seat & rack.  Both bicycles were spraybombed black for whatever reason, so i am attempting to get back to the original 1939 paint.  Attached above are some pictures of the work in progress.  I want to do a mechanical restore only and remove the ugly black spraybomb.  So far I have been able to retain most of the red paint & white graphics.  I have been scraping the black paint with a razor blade to get down to the origial red & white, then a quick buff with rubbing compound.  I had tried "goof-off", brake cleaner, nail polish remover, gasoline, ect.  All of these products were too agressive, by removing all of the paint, or not agressive enough.   I would hate to repaint with those original graphics hanging out right under the surface.  It will look a little rough, but it will still be original!  Any input would be appreciated!!!

Now to get to the real story at hand, which is dating this gem.  The serial number is "SC 63673".  The "SC" portion is centered above the top of the "63673" serial number.  I have tried looking up the date codes on these Elgins, but only see 1 letter date codes.  Because this frame was built by Murray as an Elgin, is the prefix S=Sears, and C=1939??  That is my best guess, based on my Colson built Firestone Supercruiser, which has a "F" prefix to show it was branded as a Firesone.  I realize that this style of coding may not transfer between the different manufactures, but its my best guess for now.

Any help in any direction of date code and/or restoration will be appreciated.  I am a newbie to the hobby with only about 2 years of experience in the field.  I find myself leaning towards the mechanical restored only bikes, with the 70+ years of "charactor" still intact on the chrome & paint for all to admire.

Thank you, Howie.


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## catfish (Feb 4, 2012)

I'd say restore it.


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## Robertriley (Feb 4, 2012)

I'm with Catfish, restore it.  I'd say it's a 38 or 39


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## STRADALITE (Feb 5, 2012)

I believe that the correct seat should be a TROXEL with the bell cups.

JOSH


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## JOEL (Feb 5, 2012)

From what I have gathered from literature...
37=straight down tube/toolbox
38=straight down tube/no toolbox
39=curved down tube/no toolbox

Cool paint scheme on that one.


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## 10~18kustoms (Feb 6, 2012)

I thought I heard C = 38, D = 39 and so on for Murrary.  I like old paint.  I vote to leave it original.


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## ohdeebee (Feb 6, 2012)

Although it may look worse in person, I vote for original.


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## scrubbinrims (Feb 6, 2012)

If you have the skills to restore it correctly then do it, if not, I do not think the costs to professional restore this model is worth it (but that is strictly my opinion and it's a close call).
If you neither have the restoration acumen nor want to pony up the dough to have it done, and you are not pleased with the end result of the paint overspray removal, then sell.
I know this wasn't a option in your post, but I have been in your shoes and sometimes that decision is the best option to finance a bicycle that suits you.
Your efforts so far have yield and there's no need to rush into anything.
Chris


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## catfish (Feb 6, 2012)

scrubbinrims said:


> If you have the skills to restore it correctly then do it, if not, I do not think the costs to professional restore this model is worth it (but that is strictly my opinion and it's a close call).
> If you neither have the restoration acumen nor want to pony up the dough to have it done, and you are not pleased with the end result of the paint overspray removal, then sell.
> I know this wasn't a option in your post, but I have been in your shoes and sometimes that decision is the best option to finance a bicycle that suits you.
> Your efforts so far have yield and there's no need to rush into anything.
> Chris




Krylon all the way!


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## hcdsign (Feb 8, 2012)

Thanks for all the input, I appreciate everybodys ideals. 

It seems like there is no set date on this sweet heart, but a general 1937-38 range.  

As far as paint goes, I would have 2 different venues i could go to, where i could do most of the work my self, then hand off for the actual paint work.  The problem is, that i would want to knock it back, and still make it look like a 75 year old bike.  If i do that, then i might as well keep what i have, and keep original paint & patina.  Right now I am less than $20 into the restore, other than my time.  So i can proceed thru to the end of the spraybomb removal with little or no more expense.  My thought is if it doesnt turn out the way i want at that point, I can always go back and repaint.

I am finding that I like the complete, correct crusty old bikes that you can ride, thats my thing!

Again, thanks to all for your input! 
Howie.


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## 41OLDSTEED (Feb 9, 2012)

LOOKS Good AS-IS...I Noticed that Original Paint or Patina Bikes with Just a good clean up Fetch nearly the same price as a REPAINTED-Restored or Refurbished Model...I have 4 PreWar Bikes I been slowly Fixing up and They will Have New Paint As they Had Very Little or No Original Paint left...1 is a 37 MERCURY with TooL Tank Like Yours....Good Luck....


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## bricycle (Feb 9, 2012)

If you can get the black paint off, I say leave it original. Nice pick!!!


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