# Straightening my wood rims



## Nick-theCut (May 6, 2014)

I keep thinking about doing this, and today I started the process.
Here's my rim




I went to Home Depot and grabbed some wood planks (about 30" long), bolts, washers, and wing nuts.
I created this



I later changed the assembly so that the inner two layers squeeze the rim flush.
It should work.
Design improvements would probably be longer pieces, and a third vertical row.

So this idea came from the Wheelman  website. 
I wrapped the rim in towels



Then generously pour boiling water over the towels.



Then some more



Directions were to let it soak a good amount.  I decided that meant for about 30 minutes with a reheated pour at about 15 mins to keep steamy.
Surprisingly when I unwrapped them they weren't soaking wet.
I put the rim in my vice and tightened down.

Once it was tight, I put it in my shower for a 10 min steam bath



Now I'm just leaving it in my bathroom, as it feels like Florida in August.

I'll check it in a week.  Maybe I'll rotate it and do a little more. ???

It mentions this can work when warping is horizontal, not so good for vertical problems.

I think if you can get it close, a good wheel builder can take you the rest of the way.

The most important step so far you should know is this type of work is best when done with a beer




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## Nick-theCut (May 12, 2014)

I took it out of the brace today.
I the process truely works.

Here were my results:








My design really only applied pressure to two sides of the rim.  Since it went so well, I'm going to rotate it and repeat the process.
These are clincher rims, so worth the effort for me.  I hope this inspires you guys to straighten out your rims for riding or display.


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## bikiba (May 12, 2014)

Very cool!


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## bricycle (May 12, 2014)

Nice Job!!!!!

My version: I spun wheel in laundry tub filled with hot water (10 min.), then brought it into shower with me (20 min.) then laid it against a 700c wheel and wound wood rim to complete wheel with sturdy string. Let sit a day, then showered with it wound to wheel (20 min.). Then let dry thoroughly (week)? same results. If have a stubborn area, strap that area to wheel then sandwich pipe insulation to wheel where wood wheel is more straight. This will pull more on the stubborn area.


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## filmonger (May 12, 2014)

I think of this as the wood tennis racket method - works a charm when you add steam! Best of luck and I look forward to see the final result ..... Many many thanks for sharing as this is a frequent need for those of us with wooden rims. Beer is a must with this methods in order to obtain optimal results!


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## Oldnut (May 12, 2014)

*Wood rims*

Would you seal the wood after to keep them straight or leave them alone? A wood wheel rookie


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## mike j (May 12, 2014)

Great job, impressive results, alot of prep. & patience.


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## Nick-theCut (May 14, 2014)

Oldnut said:


> Would you seal the wood after to keep them straight or leave them alone? A wood wheel rookie




I won't be, but doesn't mean it isn't good or ok for the rim.  In the past I have used a wood hardner.  It made it darker in color and shiny.  I want to keep the antique look.  Others have stained them, or even painted them.  All ok for the wood.  If I find something to gently moisturize the exterior to help prevent cracking, I may do that.
Once the rim is laced and trued the wood should keep its shape.  
Ex.  I've never come across a warped wood wheel that has proper spoke tension.


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## filmonger (May 15, 2014)

I understand completely Nick. But as an FYI....I have done quite a bit of research on this subject - as I was manufacturing wood bicycle rims myself. Penetrating oil is the best feed for wooden rims and what would have been orig applied to the old rims ( for those that were not Painted - as a good portion of the old rims were all painted and striped. There were tremendous variations in painting styles on these rims and you can even ID the old rim if there is enough paint left to see the paint pattern.  One wheel company even based the selling of their bicycle on the Vermillion colour of their wooden rims. When I was manufacturing wood bicycle rims I always recommended OSMO products. Re-application is only needed as a top up and only required after a year or two depending on how you ride. Other options are any kind of Tung oil or Spar finish. This said - I have not used it on a TOC wheel restoration - but I too will be attempting this in the next couple of weeks and will let you know the outcome.

Very Very nice clinchers by the way!!!

My question is - will you ride yours Nick? I am not so sure I would trust mine to hold up - but I guess once you have them re-stung you would know one way or the other. Look forward to the finished product.


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## mike j (May 15, 2014)

I have a pair of wood rims, in good shape with very little warping. Don't think at this point that I have to steam/ hot water them. Have been thinking of using turpentine & boiled linseed oil as a penetrant, eventually followed by adding spar varnish to the mix. These are commonly used in exterior rustic wood work, any thoughts?


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## filmonger (May 15, 2014)

mike j said:


> I have a pair of wood rims, in good shape with very little warping. Don't think at this point that I have to steam/ hot water them. Have been thinking of using turpentine & boiled linseed oil as a penetrant, eventually followed by adding spar varnish to the mix. These are commonly used in exterior rustic wood work, any thoughts?




Make sure you only use the turpentine for the first layer or two - as you must have done your research and found that this helps the BLO penetrate deeper - make sure you do not use the the turpentine mixture and only pure BLO on the last couple of applications - give it plenty of time to dry before top coat application. Also make sure you remove the excess BLO after letting it sit for a 5-10 mins for each coat - as the excess that does not penetrate the wood will not dry. Slather it on and wipe it off - simple and easy wait a min of 24hrs for each coat. The issue with BLO is that it darkens the wood colour and gives it a yellowish tint or amber hue. If you wish you can add colour with a couple of tablespoons of Miniwax stain - but you will have to wait an hour before wiping this down. 

Below is kind of an example and gives you the general idea. Don't want to highjack Nick-thecuts thread but you will have to add your story of your rims to this thread as well. It's all great info for us here at the Cabe!

http://www.fullchisel.com/blog/?p=1182


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## mike j (May 15, 2014)

Hey Filmonger, Thanks for the very informative & insightful answer. Great idea reducing the vehicle (turpentine) & increasing the delivery (BLO)of successive coats. Good time of year for this project, as it is warming up & can get them out of the house.( as mentioned on fullchisel.com). Rather than a hi-jack, I think this is more of an extension onto Nick the Cut's fine thread. Thanks again for sharing the info & good attitude on the Cabe.


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## Nick-theCut (May 15, 2014)

No hi-jack here.  I encourage others to chime in to better the thread where they have legitimate info to share.  Filmonger knows his stuff.  I'm learning here too.  Continue your questions and comments folks


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## Nick-theCut (Jul 7, 2014)

I took Filmonger's advice and used Tung oil.  I reinforced a few small areas with wood glue first.  I applied one coat and let dry for 12 hours.  The second coat went on and used 1000 grit wet sand paper over it.  I think it looks great.  Age of wood is still visible, but now has a healthy stronger exterior.  Me happy.  So I lace them up.









~ Nick


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## filmonger (Jul 8, 2014)

I think they look really cool and once you add tires - woooooow! Great Job and attention to detail - hope mine turn out that well. I am going to steal your method of straightening very soon. My Racycle's rear rim has just been through the cleaning stage with 000 steel wool and water - next a good sand and a re-glue of the joint and I will be ready for it. Here is a picture of the untouched front rim next to the steel wool clean.


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## bikiba (Jul 8, 2014)

filmonger said:


> and a re-glue of the joint and I will be ready for it.




when you say a re-glue, you are going to take the rim apart and then apply new glue?


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## filmonger (Jul 8, 2014)

When I was attempting to remove the spokes - I was tapping them out. On the last spoke I had to use slightly more force than I wanted and the joint came apart. In a way this was lucky as it gives me the a chance to see how the joint was constructed and ensure the strength of the joint. I most likely will see if my front rim will come apart as easily and repeat the process. I will post pictures of the joint and re-glue, sanding & straightening along with the finished product like nick. Would I recommend that you re-glue your joint? I would have to say yes if it comes apart with ease after tapping the rim a few times. LOL


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## Nick-theCut (Aug 8, 2014)

Got them back from the wheel builder and added the tires.  Loving the finished product.



The wheel builder used lower tension (out of respect to the antique rim) and couldn't get it perfect, but rode on the yesterday and I'm stoked.  Morrow hub I laced breaks better than my ND model A.  Thanks Ivo!


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## M & M cycle (Aug 8, 2014)

*good work*

You did a nice job!!! they look great!


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