# anyone use Sturmey Archer 3 speed drum brakes on their bike?



## 49autocycledeluxe (Sep 30, 2021)

looking at a bike for sale with the Sturmey Archer 3 speed drum brake hub in the rear and a drum brake up front as well. 

looks like a 70's bike to me. thinking of buying it just for the wheels to put on my 52-ish Schwinn. I know the 3 speed parts are a good thing, what do you have to say about these brakes? 

bike  is for sale cheap but an hour away.


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## Freqman1 (Sep 30, 2021)

This one has a 3 speed SA coaster and front SA. Stops ok but not great but pads are 80 years old!


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Sep 30, 2021)

...this bike is half that age. 🙂


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Sep 30, 2021)

thinking about putting them on this. two parts bikes made into one. I don't have any shiny wheels.


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## jimbo53 (Sep 30, 2021)

Very nice World! Do you know the year? Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs were options for these Schwinn's but not with the coaster/3 speed hub marked TCW. These hubs came later that the workhorse AW which was probably spec'd by Schwinn. They could give trouble if shifting and braking at the same time, and the coaster brakes mechanism and shoes are less that optimal.  You can read about them here: https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/tcw.html
I'm working on a 1962 Phillips DL-1 model with 28" wheels. It's unusual because it has front rod brakes and a TCW 3 speed/coaster on the rear. I'll be finishing it in a week or so and will share my thoughts.


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## jimbo53 (Sep 30, 2021)

Freqman1 said:


> This one has a 3 speed SA coaster and front SA. Stops ok but not great but pads are 80 years old!
> 
> View attachment 1487826



What an exceptional bike, Shawn!


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Sep 30, 2021)

jimbo53 said:


> Very nice World! Do you know the year?    Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs were options for these Schwinn's but not with the coaster/3 speed hub marked TCW. These hubs came later that the workhorse AW which was probably spec'd by Schwinn. They could give trouble if shifting and braking at the same time, and the coaster brakes mechanism and shoes are less that optimal.  You can read about them here: https://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/tcw.html



that Sheldon Brown report not sound like fun. they look cool, but I'd rather stop.

I forget what year it is. 53 sticks in my head. that's just the red parts. most of the rest was a 1950.the stem came from elsewhere,


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## SKPC (Oct 1, 2021)

Go get those wheels I say!  I also have read the negative positions taken on the TCW's, but I have found that they are not dangerous demons as made out to be, especially if matched with a drummy up front in case you can't or don't know how to adjust your rear 3-spd.  
I have not tried the drummed 3spd Sturmey, but Marty @cyclingday seems to have just put a similar wheelset on his lightweight scwhinny that recently has appeared...what you say on your wheelset Marty?


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## SirMike1983 (Oct 1, 2021)

The TCW series hubs can be made to work if you take apart the hub, clean and inspect all parts, and replace any parts needing replacement. The Sheldon page makes some fair criticisms, but I think is heavier than needed in its criticism. People make a big deal out of the cable adjustment problem and having no brakes, but if you know how to adjust the AW, with some care you can adjust the TCW cable properly. The issue was that the general public was using the hub in earlier times and many did not know how to adjust. Today, these are vintage items for enthusiasts, so the number of people riding around on TCWs with no knowledge of adjusting the cable is much lower. The brake shoe ring is undersized, but it does provide some braking and can work OK with a front brake also installed.

The TCW's main issue, in my experience, is that the two halves of the hub are held in place by a single E-clip in a slot on the axle at the center of the hub. If the E-clip is weakened or damaged, the tramission half of the hub can walk out of position and cause balky shifting and/or braking. This is remedied by a total tear down of the hub when you first get the part, cleaning, inspection, and reassembly. Usually it helps to have a spare "parts hub" around for this work because many parts will not interchange with an AW.

I agree entirely that the TCW is a step down from the AW hub in terms of reliability, but the AW is generally a pretty reliable hub. The other thing is that if the rims are good and the spokes are good, you can swap the TCW for an AW by rebuilding the rear wheel.

The post-1936 drum hubs (the basic front and the AB rear) are better hubs than the TCW, but certainly have their drawbacks. They're quite heavy and the braking action is just so-so usually, even after adjustment. The 36-hole shells for the drum hubs can be hard to find and can be quite expensive if in good shape. A good set of rim brakes, properly set up with good pads will work better than the drums, assuming the weather is dry.


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## Schwinny (Oct 1, 2021)

My old blue Schwinn Lightweight is sporting a 67" TCWIII. As I remember, it came off of a Breeze. I have become used to and really like a coaster brake. The bike does have a front brake which is used more. Probably a 70/30 split. I wanted to keep all the parts on the bike as old as possible but the plan book has an S3C in its future.
I also have a S3C on a different bike and a S2C on another. The TCW has a 2/3 stroke drawback that needs getting used to. Even if you are already used to a coaster brake it seems a little long. It also is a true coaster in that it won't easily lock up the rear tire.
The S3C will lock up the rear tire with a little effort and the S2C will skid all over the place if you let it.
I think there is a different design element going on inside the 2 speed. It is a post 2010 model.
But I digress from the original question....
I dunno, sorry.


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## cyclingday (Oct 1, 2021)

No experience with the Sturmey Archer type expander brake hubs, but my experience with the Schwinn type has been positive.
They will not lock up and skid the wheel, which may be a good thing, depending on how you like to stop your bike.
I call them, the original anti lock brake.
So, just like your car, the brakes can feel spongy when you grab a hand full.
But, you will decelerate, and avoid a collision. Maybe? Lol!
If you run a rear expander brake hub, then you should absolutely run a front expander brake hub.
Together, they provide the balance needed to stop the bike.
Most of your effective braking comes from the front brake.
A bike without a front brake is a crap shoot at best.
I like the clean looking, mechanical aspect of the expander brake hubs, but still would advise the caliper rim type brake, if stopping power is most important.
The performance of the expander brake may not be to most people’s liking, who have been used to the locking capability of a good rim brake set up.
New shoes will dramatically increase the performance of the expander type brake, but unfortunately, replacement parts are getting harder to come by.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Oct 1, 2021)

brakes are more important than cool parts. the old 50's "Schwinn Built" chrome steel brakes are pretty cool. I have them on my Traveler, but no pads.. but they feel like a good brake when you squeeze the lever. I assume they will give trouble free braking.


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## cyclingday (Oct 1, 2021)

Definitely.
The caliper brake is by far, the best bicycle brake set up devised to date.
I know, the disc brake guys will argue that point, but it’s hard to beat the performance and simplicity of the caliper/rim brake.


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## 49autocycledeluxe (Oct 17, 2021)

Bike with the brakes is only 40 bucks now. 









						Classic bicycle - bicycles - by owner - bike sale
					

Hello Craigslisters, I’m selling my dads classic bicycle for him. It is functioning and tires hold air. It’s a 3 speed SA rear hub. (408) seven one zero-1373. Santiago



					sfbay.craigslist.org


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## Dra (Oct 30, 2021)

I’m putting one on my twin bar. I was told it’s off a 69 schwinn. I have a nd drum for the front so I wanted to stay with the same style brake. Hopefully it’s a good idea hehe


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## Oldbikeguy1960 (Dec 25, 2021)

49autocycledeluxe said:


> ...this bike is half that age. 🙂



Probably closer to 60 years old by style. Those are original Sturmey Archer drums, not the ones with Nexus gearsets.


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