# What Model Might This Be?



## Trilobite (May 4, 2021)

Hi all,
Just picked up this one, and I’m not sure what it is. I thought it might be a Jaguar at first, but the chainguard doesn't match searched images. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!


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## Jay81 (May 4, 2021)

It could be a number of different models. Hard to say what it was, as it now has many non-Schwinn parts.


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (May 4, 2021)

If you could get the serial number off the rear drop out then you could get an idea. Not enough  there to really figure it out.


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## phantom (May 4, 2021)

The serial # at best will give you a date but no way to identify what model it originally was.


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## mrg (May 4, 2021)

Ser# on rear drop or lower right side of head tube will tell the year, looks like frame, fork crank & gard OG but most everything else repop/aftermarket!


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## vincev (May 4, 2021)

I would say it is a frankenbike.It has many new parts


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## Neal405 (May 4, 2021)

My "suggestion" would be a repainted decked out Typhoon deluxe...maybe


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## GTs58 (May 4, 2021)

Neal405 said:


> My "suggestion" would be a repainted decked out Typhoon deluxe...maybe




Could be a Typhoon. One of only a few that didn't have the chrome fork crown.


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## B607 (May 5, 2021)

Jag or Corvette frame.  Has the rear fender bridge for mounting hand brakes.  Gary


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## OptimusJay (May 5, 2021)

Typhoon was also offered as a 3 speed at times, and would have the fender bridge.


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## Trilobite (May 5, 2021)

Thanks all, for your sage advice. I knew there were new/non OEM parts added, but was hoping to narrow down what it might have possibly originally been, as I plan on powder coating the frame, and  sourcing out somewhat authentic decals. I intend to use it as a fun rider. It rides really well. Appreciate all that chimed in.


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## GTs58 (May 5, 2021)

If you post the serial number that would help to narrow down the possible model. Schwinn had many different models over the years that used that frame so if we had the year it was made we could see what models Schwinn offered that year. Only a few did not come with the chrome fork crown and that rear fender bridge. The forks were also dated in the 60's and the crank should also have a cast date. The serial number will be on the left rear drop out above the axle or on the head tube below the badge. At this point, with that chain guard and no chrome fork crown I'm saying it was a Typhoon.


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## Jay81 (May 5, 2021)

GTs58 said:


> At this point, with that chain guard and no chrome fork crown I'm saying it was a Typhoon.



Just playing devil's advocate here, but we can't base anything certain off of a chainguard or fork crown on a repainted bike. There's no way to tell if the fork or chainguard are even original to that frame. For all we know, the builder could have started with just a bare frame, and sourced parts from a number of places.
If everything was matching original paint, it would be a different story.


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## GTs58 (May 5, 2021)

Jay81 said:


> Just playing devil's advocate here, but we can't base anything certain off of a chainguard or fork crown on a repainted bike. There's no way to tell if the fork or chainguard are even original to that frame. For all we know, the builder could have started with just a bare frame, and sourced parts from a number of places.
> If everything was matching original paint, it would be a different story.




I agree 100% with the devil's advocate!   But I like to start at the bottom of the price list with my guesses which is more realistic than the guess saying Corvette or Jaguar.


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## Superman1984 (May 5, 2021)

What ever it is; for Love of Bikes  FIX the Unholy Fender Gaps !!!

Man that jus' crawls deep under my skin .... it's 1 thing if it was supposed to have have 28" wheels & you put on 26"  'cause there's an even space between fender All Around but man that's like All Jacked Outta Whack due to the brace lengths


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## bloo (May 5, 2021)

Its not an even space. Look closer. The fender is aftermarket, and may never fit right. I would guess the braces are supposed to go around the axle, as with most aftermarket stuff. It looks like maybe they put the rear one around the axle, and the top one on Schwinn's mounting point on the dropout. Maybe it didn't clear the rack. If it clears the rack, it should be put around the axle. If not, then real Schwinn fender braces are needed, and need to be attached to Schwinn's mounting point. Also the chain should be replaced if worn out or shortened if not worn out, such that the axle lands way up in the front of the dropout where Schwinn put it. That would make it look a lot better.

There's something wrong with the front fender too, but I can't quite tell what.

As for IDing it, as others have posted more details are needed. We will likely never know for sure, but might have a good guess if all the information was present like:

Serial Number
Crank date
Good pics of the chainring. If it had 5 speeds (Corvette?), the chainring would have not been exactly like the other clover chainrings.
A close up of the headset showing which upper and lower cups it has. Especially upper.
A close up of the stem and stem bolts, and also the measurement of the stem diameter where it goes in the hole in the fork tube. This diameter changed in the 60s.
Style of handlebars
Rims. Are they S2 or S7? I am guessing this was originally an S7 bike. They look painted. Were they always or can you see chrome with a tire off? Painted S7 would have come on one of the cheaper models.
Hubs. What brand and type?
Binder bolt and clamp for the seat post.

Chances are all these details, if we could see them, would all point to a similar year and a model or two if all the Schwinn parts (or most of them) came from the same bike. It is also likely they might point to two or 3 different decades and no particular model.


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## Superman1984 (May 5, 2021)

bloo said:


> Its not an even space. Look closer. The fender is aftermarket, and may never fit right. I would guess the braces are supposed to go around the axle, as with most aftermarket stuff. It looks like maybe they put the rear one around the axle, and the top one on Schwinn's mounting point on the dropout. Maybe it didn't clear the rack. If it clears the rack, it should be put around the axle. If not, then real Schwinn fender braces are needed, and need to be attached to Schwinn's mounting point. Also the chain should be replaced if worn out or shortened if not worn out, such that the axle lands way up in the front of the dropout where Schwinn put it. That would make it look a lot better.
> 
> There's something wrong with the front fender too, but I can't quite tell what.



It's the braces; I can't tell whether or not they're pinched in the forks & rear frame (if they are then U notch them where they are able to clear the frame in that area) If it's just a Nice Budget rider. You can see 2 sets of braces in the rear like this  ___| . 

After market braces always seem to be too long. Dremel the holes & cut off the excess on the tips


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## Jeff54 (May 5, 2021)

Ah, just go to ePay and take your pick of decals so, it'll be anything U want to call it and, you can fight for the right with anybody who says different.


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## Superman1984 (May 5, 2021)

I'd jus' buy the Schwinn decals that you like & leave it unknown ... only these bike nuts will know or speculate what it is or isn't. LOL


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## Trilobite (May 8, 2021)

As I’m new to this, and working my way slowly up through the ranks (currently 'Lil Knee Scuffer, which is hysterical), I’m being schooled, and enjoying every moment of it. The fender gap is bothering me, too-it wasn’t apparent when I looked at it in person-probably because I was sighting down on it. The closer I look at it, the more I begin the notice aftermarket bling. Tried to get to the serial #, but it’s either obscured by fender mounts, or heavily painted over. Both the rims and frameset are painted, and poorly, at that-either rattle-canned, or possibly brushed. I intend on ripping it down and having the frame Prismatic powder-coated, as I did with a Columbia Special, that came out beautifully (pic attached). I’m not sure what to do about the rims, which are a badly-painted cream color. Open to any suggestions anyone might offer. Right now it’s a “20/20” bike-looks fine from 20 mph and 20 feet away.  This is a brave, new world for me, and I greatly appreciate all your advice. Great forum, and kind folks!


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## GTs58 (May 8, 2021)

Curious if you found the serial number yet. And depending on what you're plans are for the rebuild, the rims can be stripped and powder coated if they were originally painted. That's if you don't plan on using caliper brakes. Have fun!


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## Lightweightbikes (May 9, 2021)

Trilobite said:


> Hi all,
> Just picked up this one, and I’m not sure what it is. I thought it might be a Jaguar at first, but the chainguard doesn't match searched images. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!  View attachment 1404468



Schwinn corvette from 1955 to 59...the serial number is located on the leftside rear leg to make sure thank you


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## Trilobite (May 14, 2021)

Tore the bikedown, and ready for powder coating. I will have the rims done, also. I can’t, for the life of me, find a serial number, even after lightly sanding the paint off of the spots where it might be, using a DreMel wire wheel. I’m starting to think the frameset is not vintage at all, but rather, built to replicate one. I don’t know enough about this. The crank appears to have “SH 3-7” cast into it. Does that sound right? Confusing...


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## bloo (May 14, 2021)

Crank looks like SA(?)3(?)78. I would guess that's a Schwinn crank made at Ashtabula Forge in 1978. I see Schwinn's typical red primer on the fork, and a Schwinn VSF crown race. Can you see any trace of old striping on the fork? I can't see enough of the chainwheel to tell if it is a 5 speed one, but from what I can see of it probably not.

The frame sure looks like a real Schwinn Electro-Forged frame to me (but no red primer). I cannot explain the lack of a serial number. The places I would look are 1) under the bottom bracket  2) the rear dropout  3) bottom of the headtube, rider's left side, toward the front. You mentioned looking for the serial. Have you looked in all 3 spots?

It looks like kickstand cam has a closed back. Does anyone remember what years those were used?

I wonder what the width is between the seat stays? Could this be a ballooner frame instead of a middleweight?


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## GTs58 (May 14, 2021)

I'm going to say that might be a 1961 or earlier model. I believe the front chain guard mounting tab was made out of flat stock and then sometime during the 62 production the tab was an L and it was electro-forged, not brazed, to the BB shell. The kickstand looks like it has an added stand repair kit with that end cap in the stand tube. After looking at the left rear dropout is appears someone has sanded down the teeth marks made by the serrated washers. The serial number should be on that left dropout! Use sandpaper to remove the paint. They will be blasting the frame for Powder so the paint has to come off anyway. If the bike is a 60's model and fork is original, there should be a date stamping on the inside of the left fork leg just above the axle slot. Either a two or three number stamping with month and last digit of the year. 8+3 would be August 1963.


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## Trilobite (May 15, 2021)

This is turning into a real mystery. I’m beyond impressed at the level of expert of the forum members, as well as appreciative of your efforts in trying to “crack the code.” Further exploration with a Drexel Multimax has turned up two stampings on the inner rear dropouts. The left side reads “9113,” while the right side stamping is inverted, reading “1200.”

The fork is a conundrum. Sanding through the red primer yielded nothing where a serial number was reputed to be, but the dropouts themselves appear filed. Were these all so crudely hewn, or has mine been doctored? The only thing I could turn up was an “M” on the inner crown. The crank is cast with “SH 3-78.” It’s definitely been apart/retrofitted, as the grease in the bb shell is fresh and copious. The rims are painted (badly). In fact, the whole shebang was badly painted with a brush. The tires are 26 x 2.125, so a ballooner.

Off it goes to be powder coated on Monday, rims too. Since it rides so well, I’m excited to put it all back together. The tank horn works, but not the cheesy headlight, so I’ll rectify that. Thanks everyone!


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## GTs58 (May 15, 2021)

Looking at your front fork drop outs it's obvious one of the owners went to town with a grinder and cutting disk on the bike. I'd be tossing that fork in the scrap pile! Those stamped numbers on the rear drop outs are part numbers. So no signs of a SN stamping on the left rear drop out above the slot huh?


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## Trilobite (May 15, 2021)

As I suspected. No manufacturer I’m aware of would make something so crude. Makes me think a previous owner hogged out the dropouts to get a larger axle to fit. I haven't seen that level of shade tree mechanics since my childhood friend's attempt to turn his Stingray into an extended chopper with sections of plumber's tubing. ‍♂️ No serial numbers to be found.


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## bloo (May 15, 2021)

Trilobite said:


> The tires are 26 x 2.125, so a ballooner.



My comment about ballooners had more to do with identifying the frame. When Schwinn started making middleweight frames, they narrowed the frame at the rear. There is supposed to be some way to tell by how many fingers you can get in at the seat stay bridge. I can't remember how many, but it did change for sure. So that is one thing to nail down. Balloon tires and rims will fit the middleweight frame, barely.

Also, Schwinn's middleweight rims (S7, 26x1-3/4") will not take balloon (S2, 26x2.125) or non-Schwinn middleweight (26x1.75") tires. So, if the frame is middleweight, then the balloon rims cannot be original.

Well... maybe one exception. When Schwinn brought Balloon tires back in the late 70s did they widen the frame back out or did they just use the middleweight one? I can't remember.

Another thing about the frame that changed from 58-59 was how high the seatstays are, so I've been told, causing a change in the fenders. Does anyone have the measurements? If it happens to be the later version, and is also 61 or earlier as outlined in GTs58's post, that would narrow it down to 1959-61.

EDIT: I just put my tape on TOP of the chainstay right at the bottom bracket and measured to the TOP of the seatstay right at the back of the seat tube. That is effectively the same as a center-to-center measurement. I measured 16-1/8". Bike is a 61 Speedster (S7 middleweight).

The width available between the seat stays at the bottom of the fender bridge is 2-5/8". Or alternatively measured from center to center on the seatstay tubing at the bottom of the bridge it is 2-15/16".

EDIT 2: The exact spot you should find the serial number on a late 50s early 60s Schwinn if it were there. 61 pictured. The dropout on the left as you are sitting on the bike. But, have you also looked under the bottom bracket? That would imply a much older frame but I would still look.


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## Trilobite (May 16, 2021)

Ahh, many thanks for all your assistance. Put a fresh pad on the Multimax and kept sanding. The frame was brush-painted and it was on there quite thick. Finally found the serial number on the left rear outside dropout: “32791.” C to c as per your measurements yielded 16.5 “, and c to t was 18.5.” Measured the rear stays above the bridge at 2.5”. Rim width is 2.75” and the hubs, I believe, are Bendix? Single red stripe on the rear. Would this indicate a middleweight frame with non original rims? Cheers.


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## GTs58 (May 16, 2021)

Trilobite said:


> Ahh, many thanks for all your assistance. Put a fresh pad on the Multimax and kept sanding. The frame was brush-painted and it was on there quite thick. Finally found the serial number on the left rear outside dropout: “32791.” C to c as per your measurements yielded 16.5 “, and c to t was 18.5.” Measured the rear stays above the bridge at 2.5”. Rim width is 2.75” and the hubs, I believe, are Bendix? Single red stripe on the rear. Would this indicate a middleweight frame with non original rims? Cheers.
> 
> View attachment 1412949




My middleweights have 2" between the seat stays just above the brake/fender bridge. That serial number is missing a letter and I think your frame may be a Balloon Opal Red 1954 Jaguar frame with 2.5" above the brake bridge. Measure the hole spacing for the head badge. A 1961 and later frame will have a 2.67" hole spacing.  

Keep sanding that drop out towards the chain stay. Looks like a faint possible L stamping that's slightly out of alignment! 

*03/04 to 03/31/1954 ------- L21841 ------------------ L33239*


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## Trilobite (May 16, 2021)

You were right! Kept sanding and the full serial number is: “L32791.” There was a whole lot of paint slathered on there. Remeasured the space above the fender bridge at 2”, so wondering if, as suggested, it has different wheels and tires in a middleweight frame. The hole spacing for the head tube badge measures at 3.25”. The badge that was on there was glued on, not screwed. Likely, a PO found one that looked authentic and slathered it on? Many thanks!


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## GTs58 (May 16, 2021)

So now we know it's a middleweight that should have the S-7 rims and 1 3/4" tires. The L serial numbers with 5 digits were used in two different years so now you have another riddle that most likely will not be solved. Is that one of the first Corvettes or Tigers that hit the streets in June 54 or is it a 1956 middelweight? 

*03/04 to 03/31/1954 ------- L21841 ------------------ L33239
08/01/1956 ------------------ L26027 ------------------- L37140*


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## bloo (May 16, 2021)

What size stem does your fork take?


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## Trilobite (May 16, 2021)

Yes, it has a rear bridge. I Googled images of the Jaguars and Tigers of that date, and all the images appear to have calipers and shifter housings (?). A part of me is mildly disappointed that it‘s not more original, insofar as the wheel set is not the proper one for a middleweight, and let’s not even address the hack job on those fork dropouts. The chain guard, at least, appears original. I was thrown a bone on that one. Forgive my naivety and ignorance; I’m just getting into this. You’re all amazingly helpful and polite, and I greatly appreciate your time taken to follow the bread crumbs to what the heck this thing originally was. It‘s off to the powder coater's tomorrow, and it will eventually be beautiful, albeit not stock-an enjoyable rider. Thinking it will be a Prismatic Illusion Cherry with pearl white rims. No overbling-just tasteful. I’ll post the finished result.


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## GTs58 (May 16, 2021)

bloo said:


> What size stem does your fork take?




I would seriously toss that fork in the garbage. The drops are a total mess, has holes drilled in it and it's bent. Just a note Trilobite. Schwinn changed the steerer tubes on the forks starting with the 1966 models and the tube gauge is thicker which made the stem hole smaller, therefore the stems had a smaller OD.

Thumbs up on your powder color choice!


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## Trilobite (May 16, 2021)

Listening carefully to your advice. Raced road, track, and mountain bikes back in the day, and have seen one too many fork failures (and a few catastrophic head tube ones, too). Where might I get hold of a replacement fork for this? eBay? Thanks for all.


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## GTs58 (May 16, 2021)

I would've suggested eBay a few years ago but the way things are today it's not the place to buy bike parts anymore. Sellers are totally clueless as to what they are selling and have absurd prices for their junk parts. Just sorting thru all the eBay fork listings is a waste of time. Sellers are passing off lightweight forks for middleweight forks. Ebay is a big joke these days IMO. I would go thru the parts listings here on the Cabe and maybe post a Wanted ad if nothing is available. 

So you need a middleweight fork. Drilled or not drilled for a caliper brake. Steer tube hole ID of your choice, but you'll have to match with the correct stem and hardware. Chrome fork crowns started in 1959 if you want to dress up the fork. I'm not aware of any cast date stamps on the 50's forks. One good thing about the later 50's forks is the full length pin darts on the legs. That should help in finding one that will actually be correct and not have to worry about what stem you'll need. All the stems during the 50's and into the early 60's were unmarked, no numbers or height lines. Not sure what size stem you have, but if you're going to used it, you'll have to match it up with the correct fork tube size.


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## Rusty Klunker (May 16, 2021)

GTs58 said:


> . Sellers are totally clueless as to what they are selling and have absurd prices for their junk parts. Just sorting thru all the eBay fork listings is a waste of time. Sellers are passing off lightweight forks for middleweight forks. Ebay is a big joke these days IMO.




Isnt that the truth! Had a couple bad deals lately.


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## GTs58 (May 16, 2021)

This one is listed by a Cabe member. For the life of me I've never seen a Yellow Corvette or Jaguar. And it's a drilled fork so it's not off a Heavy Duti. Looks like a Lightweight Breeze fork to me. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203214592479?campid=5335809022
This one looks nice but can't say if it's bent or not, doesn't appear to be.  Has the date stamp 8-4 so an August 64 fork. Has all the hardware and seller has best offer. Deal or not? 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373493375109?campid=5335809022
Price check. For $150..................plus shipping, you can get all this with a fork. But beware, the seller says it's a 1962 when in fact it's a 1963. haha! 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324617281272?campid=5335809022


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## Trilobite (May 17, 2021)

Wow! Thanks for doing my homework for me! I really would be poking around in the dark, not knowing exactly what to look for. I’ll explore these leads further. That full-on Typhoon frameset is tempting... The last couple of days, there have been quite a few interesting bikes popping up on Marketplace by me. Sadly, I’m already hiding these in the garage under cover of darkness. Lol.
Again, and I can’t say it enough, appreciate everyone's helpfulness and enthusiasm in assisting me. As a member in other forums (Jeep, motorcycle, mountain bike, etc.), the members here are by FAR the most courteous, truly going out of their way to aid. Cheers.


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## coasterbrakejunkie1969 (May 17, 2021)

Trilobite said:


> Wow! Thanks for doing my homework for me! I really would be poking around in the dark, not knowing exactly what to look for. I’ll explore these leads further. That full-on Typhoon frameset is tempting... The last couple of days, there have been quite a few interesting bikes popping up on Marketplace by me. Sadly, I’m already hiding these in the garage under cover of darkness. Lol.
> Again, and I can’t say it enough, appreciate everyone's helpfulness and enthusiasm in assisting me. As a member in other forums (Jeep, motorcycle, mountain bike, etc.), the members here are by FAR the most courteous, truly going out of their way to aid. Cheers.



I have a middle weight fork but it is blue, it is on my bike right now but was going to change it soon.


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## Trilobite (May 17, 2021)

bloo said:


> What size stem does your fork take?



Measured the OD at 5/8”. Does that sound right? Thanks!


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## Superman1984 (May 17, 2021)

Trilobite said:


> Measured the OD at 5/8”. Does that sound right? Thanks!



I don't have anything to gauge it by for you as it's a Schwinn & I don't happen to own anything older than an '87ish mtn bike at that BUT You can Trust coasterbrakejunkie1969 if you pm him I'm sure he'd measure & caliper his. I've bought from him as well & he's a pretty good guy or at least with me he has been. May save you some $ & get you sooner to powder/riding status


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## Superman1984 (May 17, 2021)

If you'd like to run the 2.125" tires on the middle weight (this is how I clearanced my middle weight '64 Columbia) since so much isn't original & or unknown for a "custom"  rider it'll possibly be your easiest route










These are Taiwan fenders off a common modern Schwinn so it should work (unless you're running rim brakes maybe).... Attach all mounting points snug as you can, tightly trace the frame with a sharpie,  I dremel sliced both sides up & out roughly before using a grinding stone bit. I Really can go a little wider but I have a Rat Rod constant project so I'm not fixing what isn't broken or bothersome hahaha. I'll eventually fill the factory holes but thas' a few beers or shots down the road too


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## Superman1984 (May 17, 2021)

Shameless plug & it's not perfect the way I wanted but there's an Over All Idea of what can be done vs your jacked up fendering & I would play with those braces, test fit, and repeat until you're content or satisfied


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## Trilobite (May 17, 2021)

Superman1984 said:


> View attachment 1413504
> 
> Shameless plug & it's not perfect the way I wanted but there's an Over All Idea of what can be done vs your jacked up fendering & I would play with those braces, test fit, and repeat until you're content or satisfied



Awesome. Thanks for your advice. I’m pretty handy with a cut wheel (Definitely much better than the previous owner’s attempt on my fork dropouts...), so will give it a shot. Good looking ride. I may attempt a rat rod bike to replicate the clunkers early mountain bike riders used to run on the Repack Road downhill in Marin County.


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## Superman1984 (May 17, 2021)

There's No Wrong path once it's past a certain point; Do what's going to make You Enjoy It the Most! My bike's prior owner built his vision from a frame up & parts .... I am just adding my touches to it. Next owner might wanna powder coat it/restomod it back to like new or even restore it but I couldn't part with it reasonably.


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## Trilobite (Sep 8, 2021)

Finally (almost) finished my Frankenbike. Since it was already a combination of parts from God only knows how many different bikes and accessory suppliers, built it up without any regard to originality. End result: it looks wonderful and rides even better. Thanks, “The Cabe” members for assistance and input. Still have to iron out that rear fender jacking-I was conservative with the Dremel. Powdercoat color is Illusion Red, and it really pops in the sunlight.


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