Cole Orchard 3 Speed Hub

[SKPC]

While some may be aghast, I would simply round the sharp end of a framing nail, place the hub protected by a rag in a vise (lightly) heat the retaining ring with the spanner holes, then with a small hammer and nail punch at the proper angle, lightly tapping either side to unscrew? Must be right hand threads like most Sturmey/Sachs 3-spds. A good mechanic that tightened it could have assembled it correctly.

 

[Oilit]

While some may be aghast, I would simply round the sharp end of a framing nail, place the hub protected by a rag in a vise (lightly) heat the retaining ring with the spanner holes, then with a small hammer and nail punch at the proper angle, lightly tapping either side to unscrew? Must be right hand threads like most Sturmey/Sachs 3-spds. A good mechanic that tightened it could have assembled it correctly.

In my youth I resorted to such measures, but now I have the tools to implement better alternatives. And I'm not in any big rush.

 

[SKPC]

Again, this technique may be required as intimated in my comment and can be done without further damage from what is already there. While it is possible to damage the pin holes this way, it can be done without damage if you are careful. In many instances, heat and sudden impact may be required to crack the potentially frozen threads. You wouldn't want to put a long bar on a pin spanner tool would you? One reason I dislike pin spanners is the part to be remove may have been tightened too much or is frozen to the opposing metal. Hmmm....can you say freewheels? So yea, hopefully the threads are lubed, it was tightened lightly, then the "correct" tool should work best.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

Again, this technique may be required as intimated in my comment and can be done without further damage from what is already there. While it is possible to damage the pin holes this way, it can be done without damage if you are careful. In many instances, heat and sudden impact may be required to crack the potentially frozen threads. You wouldn't want to put a long bar on a pin spanner tool would you? One reason I dislike pin spanners is the part to be remove may have been tightened too much or is frozen to the opposing metal. Hmmm....can you say freewheels? So yea, hopefully the threads are lubed, it was tightened lightly, then the "correct" tool should work best.

Yes, pins and punches can work fine in the right hands AND when you have the hub laced up in a wheel. I'd like to see the insides too, but no reason to be impatient. Like Oilit said, he needs something to hold the hub steady and keep it from rotating. Otherwise, the blows from a hammer and punch or torque from the proper spanner will be all for naught if they aren't backed up by something to hold the hub shell in place.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Maybe another spanner tool, utilizing opposing spoke holes, with Kroil, might work?

 

[SKPC]

Looking forward to the "Opening Day" at the three-speed mafia workshop Oilit. Don't know how you can wait to open it!

 

[FICHT 150]

This. I used to have the Sturmey Archer tool for getting the lock ring loose, but, the big Channel Lock works better.

Ted

 

[Oilit]

I see this thread's been cleaned up a little, probably just as well. But one point was raised that's worth considering, this hub doesn't match the pictures. My guess was that there were changes made before it got to production, but it's also possible that the torque arm isn't original to this hub. There's no name on the shell, so if it isn't a Cole-Orchard then I don't know what it is, but there's a lot I don't know.