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New To Forum. 68 Fastback

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LuckyKid

On Training Wheels
I have my original '68 5-speed Fastback. ED92333. Campus Green. I got it for Christmas '68 from Shirar's Schwinn here in Houston.
It's in great condition. I took it to a Schwinn dealer a few years ago and had the following done:
New tubes/tires - OEM Schwinns which I understand someone had made for awhile. They are identical to the originals. (Say "Schwinn" on them, etc)
All New cables - these are a light gray. Came in Schwinn packaging but I think my originals were white?
Replaced a few derailleur parts with OEM
New brake pads.
Bike works great, shifts precisely.
Paint is virtually as new - I was easy on this bike plus my dad kept it oiled up. All decals, badging etc. Seat is orig. white sparkle style. Has a few cracks (2-3) but nothing over 1/2". Faded/yellowed some.
Grips are "whole" - ends are in good shape although darkened some...and dirty.

Ok - my main question is about cleaning the decals (yellowed) and other soft parts such as grips & seat. All suggestions appreciated. I will do the chrome. It's not terrible but there are small rust spots on the wheels.
2nd question is Should I ride it? I'd like to. Would probably put on a temp seat.
 
1. Careful with decals--just a damp cloth--they will stay yellowed, grips and seat mild detergent and water with brush, wheels 0000 steel wool and WD40 followed with a chrome polish 2. Hell yea--that's the fun of it! V/r Shawn
 
Copper wool is even better for chrome,doesn't scratch like steel,and i highly recommend tr-3,made by blue magic,for the paint. It's a resin glaze,versus a polishing compound,so it will remove dirt,funk,light patina,without screwing up paint,and decals.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Ok - my main question is about cleaning the decals (yellowed) and other soft parts such as grips & seat

I have had very good luck cleaning up yellowed Schwinn decals including the seat tube wrap around pieces with Turtle Wax's liquid polishing compound. Years ago I found a Polishing compound, a liquid in a bottle, that was made by The Wax Shop. This was the only non abrasive stuff that worked getting off baked on water spots on my black cars with the clear coat. I even tried clay bars with no luck. The Chevy dealers detail shop couldn't even get the water spots completely off and they just polished and buffed the water spots to where you couldn't see them looking directly at the car, but the were very visible sighting down the body panels. Unfortunately The Wax Shop products are no longer available. While trying to find out what happened to The Wax Shop's products, I read that Turtle Wax bought them out so at that time I came to believe that Turtle Wax's new Polishing Compound (with nano technology) in the black bottle was the formula created by The Wax Shop.
Just dab some on the decal with a soft rag over a finger and lightly rub a few times and then wipe off. After the first couple dabs of experimenting, you'll see what it will do and how much effort is needed to accomplish the task of cleaning the yellow off. If the decal is totally weather and sun beaten to where a wet soapy rag will wipe off the decal, or screening, stay away from it with any product including a wax/cleaner.
 
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USE AT OWN RISK! I had a really crapy decal on my rams horn and I used a little degreaser quick on quick off it worked great but any more than a second you can take off the decal. Before and after
 
Fantastic clean-up ! I have had good luck with magic eraser on white decals ,but be careful !
I wipe with the eraser followed by a wipe with a water soaked rag to remove any cleaner.
 
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