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Wanted: 2 prong freewheel remover

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marklachapelle

Look Ma, No Hands!
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I need help finding a 2 prong freewheel remover for a vintage 3 speed Cyclo wheel. It measures about 37.5 mm in diameter.

Buy, borrow, rent. Any help would be appreciated!
 
You will need an axle and a axle nut for that hub to stabilize and hold the remover square with the freewheel body. That freewheel is the reason spline type freewheels were invented.

John
 
It may not work for this situation, but I once ground a large cold chisel down to fit the slots and used a large adjustable wrench to turn the chisel handle.
 
It may not work for this situation, but I once ground a large cold chisel down to fit the slots and used a large adjustable wrench to turn the chisel handle.

I'm all for homemade tools and giving it the college try, but for this operation you actually need the real deal. As a bicycle dealer, I could not tell you how many times a customer brought in a rear wheel in that was not able to get the freewheel off. In the process of trying, they usually screw up the remover slots on the freewheel to a point that the only way is to tear the freewheel apart and use the vise.

The key points in this job are,
Have a correct removal tool
Make sure the hub has an axle (or a skewer) "to center the removal tool" and "keep it centered"
Use a axle nut on the axle until the freewheel is "broken loose" from the hub threads
Use a very large, very secure vise to hold the remover from turning
When you put the remover into the vise lower it down all the way until the freewheel is supported on the top of the vise jaws
It may sound dumb, but make certain you turn the wheel "counterclockwise" when it's clamped into the vise
The freewheel is VERY TIGHT on the hub, when you turn the wheel use one hand to pull, and the opposite hand to push, DO NOT JUST PULL. When removing an "early style" slotted freewheel it's very easy to twist the remover out of the freewheel. It's the reason splined style freewheels eventually became the standard version.
The entire job is less than five minutes after you find the correct remover

If you're unsure, or if you do not think you will be removing many different freewheels, just take it to somebody with the correct remover and the experience to do the removal without any damage. Bike Shops need to make some money too.

John
 
Last edited:
I'm all for homemade tools and giving it the college try, but for this operation you actually need the real deal. As a bicycle dealer, I could not tell you how many times a customer brought in a rear wheel in that was not able to get the freewheel off. In the process of trying, they usually screw up the remover slots on the freewheel to a point that the only way is to tear the freewheel apart and use the vise.

The key points in this job are,
Have a correct removal tool
Make sure the hub has an axle (or a skewer) "to center the removal tool" and "keep it centered"
Use a axle nut on the axle until the freewheel is "broken loose" from the hub threads
Use a very large, very secure vise to hold the remover from turning
When you put the remover into the vise lower it down all the way until the freewheel is supported on the top of the vise jaws
It may sound dumb, but make certain you turn the wheel "counterclockwise" when it's clamped into the vise
The freewheel is VERY TIGHT on the hub, when you turn the wheel use one hand to pull, and the opposite hand to push, DO NOT JUST PULL. When removing an "early style" slotted freewheel it's very easy to twist the remover out of the freewheel. It's the reason splined style freewheels eventually became the standard version.
The entire job is less than five minutes after you find the correct remover

If you're unsure, or if you do not think you will be removing many different freewheels, just take it to somebody with the correct remover and the experience to do the removal without any damage. Bike Shops need to make some money too.

John
John, thank you for sage advise. I will be careful and give a full report.
 
View attachment 2075354I need help finding a 2 prong freewheel remover for a vintage 3 speed Cyclo wheel. It measures about 37.5 mm in diameter.

Buy, borrow, rent. Any help would be appreciated!
I probably have one. My old bike shop guy gave me all his odd freewheel tools about 15 years ago when he was cleaning house. If you have a picture of the tool that would help. If I have it, it will be $45 shipped.
 
I'm all for homemade tools and giving it the college try, but for this operation you actually need the real deal. As a bicycle dealer, I could not tell you how many times a customer brought in a rear wheel in that was not able to get the freewheel off. In the process of trying, they usually screw up the remover slots on the freewheel to a point that the only way is to tear the freewheel apart and use the vise.

The key points in this job are,
Have a correct removal tool
Make sure the hub has an axle (or a skewer) "to center the removal tool" and "keep it centered"
Use a axle nut on the axle until the freewheel is "broken loose" from the hub threads
Use a very large, very secure vise to hold the remover from turning
When you put the remover into the vise lower it down all the way until the freewheel is supported on the top of the vise jaws
It may sound dumb, but make certain you turn the wheel "counterclockwise" when it's clamped into the vise
The freewheel is VERY TIGHT on the hub, when you turn the wheel use one hand to pull, and the opposite hand to push, DO NOT JUST PULL. When removing an "early style" slotted freewheel it's very easy to twist the remover out of the freewheel. It's the reason splined style freewheels eventually became the standard version.
The entire job is less than five minutes after you find the correct remover

If you're unsure, or if you do not think you will be removing many different freewheels, just take it to somebody with the correct remover and the experience to do the removal without any damage. Bike Shops need to make some money too.

John
A 6 pack of their favorite beer goes a long way!
 
This is homemade, Timing hear from Buick using square stock welded to slots that were already machined into gear Providing thrust surfaces upon freewheel still intact. The flats on OP freewheel are gone. Nevermind the grease on everything. I don't see anyone ruining a proper tool on a lost cause.

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