Another 1936 Schwinn…

[Eddie_Boy]

Not much to report this morning other than my decision. Lately, as I am working on this ’36 La Salle, I have been asking myself, “Should I clean or not clean? So yesterday, as I was walking down our old 1930s kitchen galley, outside the window, I see the top of “Sissy” our ’54 Chevy 3100. She’s also blue, my favorite color, and in some areas, top of the cab and the tail gate specifically, not washed or even wiped down. After decades of being exposed to the elements, the tailgate shows its natural two tone look. If you wipe down, the white surrounding the Chevrolet and all the years that created this look, would rub off. So as long as I have owned her, I have never cleaned the tailgate with soap. So after seriously considering whether to clean or not clean, leave “as found”, I finally decided on the latter. I know…not a favorable decision by most, but here’s another reason why. The ’36 La Salle originally came unequipped, no tank, no rack, no light Just like “Cochina” our ’36 DBR. With our DBR, I too left the frame, fork, and fenders uncleaned and as found condition when I got her, and I love that look on her. That’s why I plan to do the same with this blue ’36. It doesn’t mean maybe in the future, I will decide to clean her up and show off more of her pretty Schwinn blue color later. For now I’ll focus on getting her mechanically sound, just like what I did with our DBR. So that’s our plan. Your thoughts.

"Cochina", '36 Schwinn DcurvedBR

"Sissy", '54 Chevy 3100

 

[Eddie_Boy]

Glad I got my 36's, cause your starting to corner the market ! I'll still send out some pic's, just not as ambitious as you getting stuff done. Great job Eddie ! 😎

Thanks @Frank and Pam Skid Kings. I look forward to seeing pics of your '36 Schwinn.

 

[Eddie_Boy]

Removed the fork/steering tube and crankset, only soaked and cleaned the bearings and cones, but kept rest uncleaned . Everything looks good other than the bottom headset race, which I have already ordered and received new from @bicyclebones referred by @mr.cycleplane. Incorrect (postwar) drive side cone. Left side cone also bad, but since I usually replace the BB cones anyway, a new set ordered and received.

24t clover will be replaced. Definitely keeping the crank, dated '36

Postwar drive side BB cone will be replace with correct prewar cone; otherwise, it's in good shape. Happy to see the top adjusting headset cone also in nice condition. Will reuse the original open bearing cases.

Pitting marks on the left

New BB prewar Schwinn cones from Luxlow, eBay seller

 

[Eddie_Boy]

Took out some used double butted spokes and nibs, thanks @MeadRanger. Only cleaned the spokes, and slightly shook the nibs in a small glass jar of a little WD40.

So after breaking down a couple of rear wheels, I spent a few days soaking and cleaning a total of 3 Morrow hubs. Gary Quail came down to the valley to lace up a few wheels, and we went up to visit our friend, Tyler @mr.cycleplane. Days prior, I told Tyler about these hubs. He said, “Bring them up. I’ll take a look at them. So that’s what we did. As Gary was lacing up wheels for Tyler, I was with Tyler as he took the best parts of the three. The goal was out of the three, to make two solid Morrow hubs, #1 being the best condition parts, #2, second best, and the third the rest of the parts. Tyler even went as far as replacing parts from #1 with better quality from his NorCal stash, like the bearings and lock nuts. @mr.cycleplane is always offering his services to help. Thank you Tyler.

First soaking

1st Morrow dated '39

2nd Morrow, dated '40, soaking

Mr.cycleplane

What hoops do I use since the entire front was not salvageable and the rear wheel was all painted? Didn’t have any patina or a bit crusty set available, looked out for some at the Keizer swap in Oregon; they had a few but nothing correct drop center wheels. Asked around, and my friend Mr. Quail has a pair of matching and very patina‘d pair from an old 40s Schwinn. Super nice of Gary to offer the hoops to help me out. Wheel parts prepped and they are now ready for Gary Quail, master wheel builder, to do his thing. The Morrow hub you see in this picture will be used, but just the internals of the hub. The 2 hub shells came out so clean, too clean for this project. So a more patina‘d Morrow hub shell will be used instead, currently in route to Gary, to better match the hoops and the condition of our ’36 La Salle.

 

[Eddie_Boy]

More than likely, as is our ’36 Schwinn DBR, I believe these two models didn’t come with chain guards being narrow fenders and flat fender braces. The DBR didn’t come with one, but I added a prewar Schwinn hockey stick appropriate for the year. For the La Salle, very happy she came with a decent one, much better condition than the DBR’s. It was however painted this deco green color on the inset of the guard, so you know that was coming off.

First application

After an hour's time

Second application

Deco green color paint removed

 

[Livmojoe]

Look'n good Eddie. Hey btw, if you're missing the nut from the chainguard seat stay clamp, I found it for ya, lol 😜

 

[Eddie_Boy]

Look'n good Eddie. Hey btw, if you're missing the nut from the chainguard seat stay clamp, I found it for ya, lol 😜

View attachment 1661629

John, that's funny. Good eye my friend. When I picked up the chainguard after this picture, bummed that one screw and nut was missing. I told myself, "I knew I put these on beforehand so not to loose them. Glad the screw and bolt were right there. Relieved.

 

[Eddie_Boy]

So while I wait for the paint remover to do its thing, I wanted to address the fender guards. The typical tip and tail needed attention of course. The rear fender tail is fragile as you can see, of course by the dreaded pressure of the drop stand. Carefully and slowly went to work using just my smooth jaws Knipex pliers. In the end I think it came out okay. I plan to use a drop stand, so I’ll address the slight tear at a later time.

Another tear...damn drop stands

Forgot to take pictures, before, when I did the front fender tip. After straightening.

 

[Eddie_Boy]

I found this bar recently at the Keizer swap in Oregon thanks to Mark @redline1968. Looks like these were painted many years ago, and heavy rust through the paint. Came with a deco Torrington stem. Do I leave it alone or do I try to clean it up? I decided to clean these bars up a bit. Frist, removing removing the thick surface rust . I bought this rust remover gel called Metal Rescue. I initially bought it to remove surface rust on an old 50s Craftsman tool chest that I was refurbishing. Apply, then cover with Glad or Saran wrap, and wait. This gel stuff is good for removing rust from vertical surfaces and large items like these bars. After several hours hoping the warm temperature, in the shade not under direct sun, will help with the process, rinsed in water and did a second application. it worked.

This gel stuff works taking a couple of applications

Good and bad news. The good news, these steerhorns are actually Torrington bars. Super cool. Didn’t know when I bought it, hidden under the rust and paint. I just knew they were super wide. Mark and I measured, and these are super cool 30” wide. I was thinking there might be some chrome left under the silver paint. So what do I do? I decided to remove the paint. They painted the entire bars and stem; at first, looked like the stem was the aluminum version but wasn't. It took two applications and a very stiff old small brush, and the majority of the paint removed. There was a reason why they painted these bars, there were barely any chrome left; I had a feeling but went for it anyway. In hindsight, I could have left the silver paint after removing the rust; I would have been okay knowing afterwards. I don’t mind the end result either; still killer patina steer horns, more importantly straight, and even better that they are super wide. I will use these. Now need to find a right stem that will work with these bars.

Bars after rust removal

The underside

First application

Results after first application paint removal

applying second application of removing paint

final results, other than the stem and grips area, all chrome gone

 

[MrMonark13]

Nice! Do you have any after pics to show how well it worked?