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put an engine on a Whizzer?

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Good luck. It is hard enough to make a Whizzer work and be safe.
Trade offs. Even my dad's 2005 NE5 Whizzer is dangerous but it probably is running 45+ mph with just a carb mod & on 26x1.75 mtn bike knobbies he won't let me change over to some Nice vintage style 2.125 white wall ballooners
 
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Honda Clone engines;
49cc-180cc Modify the frame, 4 stroke it, & you can get most of them with electric & kick start up to 125cc If I recall right. I think 140cc above is just kick. Anything less it might look vintage & cool but slow & heavy stock. This bike was a semi auto 4 speed & builder claimed the 90cc would easily pull 45mph no problem on flats/small moderate inclines. I have the same bike with a 110cc I am building & aiming for 55+ mph. When it came off the Honda Cub clone it was pretty peppy cutting donuts & with my dad weighing 180 lbs or more.
You will pay to motor Reliably (even 2 smoke kits as they're a lot of crap parts to begin with) or hack job a common side shaft or an overpriced slow "predator" build. I wouldn't ride 1 less capable of than 45 mph these days
That's the set up i"m looking for right there.
(assuming this is yours) Why did you go with a jack shaft and not a left-side sprocket? Is it because you wanted to keep the disk brakes?
I'm wondering if if it better (why,why not) to use the sheave that is common on most whizzers, or use the sprocket found on most motorized bikes today.
That engine there driving the leftside of my bike is my goal.
Sheave or sprocket is the only question left now.

Thx
 
That's the set up i"m looking for right there.
(assuming this is yours) Why did you go with a jack shaft and not a left-side sprocket? Is it because you wanted to keep the disk brakes?
I'm wondering if if it better (why,why not) to use the sheave that is common on most whizzers, or use the sprocket found on most motorized bikes today.
That engine there driving the leftside of my bike is my goal.
Sheave or sprocket is the only question left now.

Thx
Not mine but I am planning to use the same 4 stroke 4 speed clone but 110cc vs his 90cc engine to build 1 slightly similar on the same frame. I intend to use the left side as you said for the engine drive side run off either an French Atom hub with a free wheel on the right bike side or this on your typical sized 1.5" coaster/disc brake. I am not running a belt drive or sheathe due to clearances on the motor, the fact there is No Clutch & with that Nirve Switchblade frame there's literally No Room for Error motoring 1 on a 24 or 26x3" tire as just the bike chain line is already so close with little room to spare. I will be modifying a once $600+ frame to make this happen, change the looks to more my liking, and to then make it look Vintage running Monark Super Deep fenders, cheese grater rack, Super Deluxe chain guard & my own little personal bicycle touches with what will essentially be a legit built motorcycle with a bicycle core. Should average somewhere between 50-100 mpg & top speed hopefully of 55+ mph.

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Not mine but I am planning to use the same 4 stroke 4 speed clone but 110cc vs his 90cc engine to build 1 slightly similar on the same frame. I intend to use the left side as you said for the engine drive side run off either an French Atom hub with a free wheel on the right bike side or this on your typical sized 1.5" coaster/disc brake. I am not running a belt drive or sheathe due to clearances on the motor, the fact there is No Clutch & with that Nirve Switchblade frame there's literally No Room for Error motoring 1 on a 24 or 26x3" tire as just the bike chain line is already so close with little room to spare. I will be modifying a once $600+ frame to make this happen, change the looks to more my liking, and to then make it look Vintage running Monark Super Deep fenders, cheese grater rack, Super Deluxe chain guard & my own little personal bicycle touches with what will essentially be a legit built motorcycle with a bicycle core. Should average somewhere between 50-100 mpg & top speed hopefully of 55+ mph.

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Thx Super. Assuming that I do have the clearance, would I be better off using the sheave or the sprocket? Do you have an opinion on that?
 
Thx Super. Assuming that I do have the clearance, would I be better off using the sheave or the sprocket? Do you have an opinion on that?
That sprocket adapter I posted is pretty nice as it mounts through the spokes so once it's clamped tightly over a hub with blue loctite it should never snap loose or twist spokes off. They can be as much as like $80+ but it depends on where you buy, tooth count & I wanted 36t nicer looking polished aluminum for my build vs simple looking steel. I have heard tales of those sheaves coming loose under use or the belts shredding & tearing stuff up. My adapter & sprocket is meant to run 415 chain but known to safely run #41 Heavy Duty chains which rarely ever stretch out as long as maintained remotely decent. Not to mention can be had Cheap. The 110cc pit bike motor is about 6.8 hp stock but they make so much for these engines from Big Bore kits to engines that are like 180cc fully built 70+ mph reliably capable race monsters. Hell if you add a trike conversion you can get the atv with F N R so you can back up if need be. On a typical bike frame you'll have to extend the frame & you'll have a hefty added weight but not much of a difference if you rarely ever intend to just ride it via your own power for long. My motor is crank & electric start + 12v powered so I intend to run l.e.d turn signals, headlights, and tail light so there's that kinda stuff to figure out but allows so much more options / benefits bang for the buck
 
Next best thing I would say Still Modern would be a Motori Minarelli V1
2 stroke moped motor. They're capable of 80cc if you're familiar with those little skeeter beater fog machines & that particular moped motor has built in pedals & can be reliably built to be a beast too. It's a little bit smaller dimension wise but centrifugal clutch, pedal started, and push bump started like some well maintenance Whizzers can be. I am going for reliable & at least a 55mph ripper. I won't always ride it rough but I want it capable
 
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Maybe this will help understand & they make them for like 3 different hub options. Also if you choose to run a disc brake rear wheel you can do so with the common double sided threaded hub setups
 
Here's two I did... were finished, but never did run them
 
Here's one I did... was finished, but never did run it
If I built it I couldn't help but ride it at least once. My own damn undoing 'cause I would then wanna know how fast it is but that's rat rod cool :cool:
 
If you guys only knew but I rode this
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With a K2 bicycle fork attached to the frame with loose head cups tightened down with a few spacers, a Husky HD 11g spoke wheel attached, a flipped up side down brake lever for a squeeze throttle & the kill switch wiring between my knees using a jockey/suicide shift lever to shift this thing:tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy: Stupid? Maybe! But It was Thrilling to know for $75 I have a $200+ motor for my project & a jump on most of Everything I need to potentially build a bad ass bike that'll speak for it's self & say 'Nuff Said
 
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