Rebuilding an old wheelset

[John D. Williams]

Question. Are the rims the same profile? Looks like the rear is a higher drop center, but it could be the photo.

Same rims front and rear?

They look exactly the same. I think the answer is, the rear was a 4 cross.

 

[John D. Williams]

Four cross was the answer. That first cross is subtle! Thanks everyone. I am guessing the front was 4 cross too so I will rebuild it. Some of the threads went through the nipples so I covered them with the rim strip and then heavy duct tape. Best to redo it.

 

[speedy]

Same spokes, rim, and hub. Gave it a look, thought it was a 3 cross, outside-outside-outside, which I thought at the time was unusual. Perhaps I was wrong. Does this pic show the pattern?

View attachment 2413222

Looking at the picture of this old bicycle indicates to me that the wheels were laced forecross, with 270 mm length spokes.
Or known as ten and five eighths but if you look at the bicycle, actually, the wheels were probably metal clad over wood, 28 inch by one. And a 1 wheels.
That were original to the bike.

 

[John D. Williams]

Looking at the picture of this old bicycle indicates to me that the wheels were laced forecross, with 270 mm length spokes.
Or known as ten and five eighths but if you look at the bicycle, actually, the wheels were probably metal clad over wood, 28 inch by one. And a 1 wheels.
That were original to the bike.

So you think these wheels on the bike now are not original?

 

[SKPC]

Don't mean to be too much of a pain, but you may have slipped up when placing the 1st spoke on the other side....Yes it wll work, but it's not correct.
See below of your finished wheel. The Red Lines are how the exiting spokes on a 4 cross(or 3) should look, symetrical. The Yellow Lines are not.
Look at the Black Dots showing the other side's holes. You may have started the 1st spoke as the BLUE Line and Black Dot as shown. the GREEN line is the correct 1st spoke placement. The good thing is that when you disassemble then reassemble a wheel, every time you learn something and get better and better over time. Stick with it...pete

 

[John D. Williams]

Don't mean to be too much of a pain, but something happened when lacing. It may seem to work, but is not correct. See below of your finished
wheel. The Red Lines are how the exiting spokes on a 4 cross should look. The Yellow Lines show incorrect relationship when crossing. Look at the Black Dots. You may have started the other side of the hub in the wrong hole. Looks like it should have been placed as the Green Line and Black Dot is shown below...The good thing is that when you disassemble then reassemble a wheel, every time you learn something and get better and better over time. Stick with it...pete
View attachment 2413898

Well, heck. If you are right you're right. I was aware at the time of beginning the other side that I should go offset on the hole, one to the right as I twist clockwise? I thought I did so. Or is the offset only for 3 cross?

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Well, heck. If you are right you're right. I was aware at the time of beginning the other side that I should go offset on the hole, one to the right as I twist clockwise? I thought I did so. Or is the offset only for 3 cross?

The close-up pictures (rear wheel) still look like 3-cross, (at least on the near side).

One way to determine the number of cross overs is to count the number of spokes on the hub flange, that are in between two almost parallel spokes, or the closest to being parallel, never crossing, (should be two holes apart at the rim).

It looks like six (6) spokes in between, means three (3) each crossing left & right; (3-cross).

 

[John D. Williams]

The latest pictures (rear wheel) still look like 3-cross, (at least on the near side).

One way to determine the number of cross overs is to count the number of spokes on the hub flange, that are in between two almost parallel spokes, or the closest to being parallel, never crossing, (and two holes apart at the rim).

It looks like six (6) spokes in between, means three (3) each crossing left & right; (3-cross).

It's a 4 cross, but not a great pic of it. One proof is the threads are not sticking out past the nipples as before. I am considering what SKPC is saying, that I did not start the opposite side in the right hole, although I thought so. I've already repacked the coaster brake and assembled the hub and was trueing the wheel so, with all thanks to you guys, I may just ride it and if it seems okay, leave it? Not dangerous right? With all the different types of spoke patterns, I would think it's safe to ride? At least it's not radial! And again, I love being on CABE and having all the bike folks offer help; I really appreciate it.

 

[Archie Sturmer]

The wide shot does look 4-cross.

 

[rustjunkie]

It's a 4 cross, but not a great pic of it. One proof is the threads are not sticking out past the nipples as before. I am considering what SKPC is saying, that I did not start the opposite side in the right hole, although I thought so. I've already repacked the coaster brake and assembled the hub and was trueing the wheel so, with all thanks to you guys, I may just ride it and if it seems okay, leave it? Not dangerous right? With all the different types of spoke patterns, I would think it's safe to ride? At least it's not radial! And again, I love being on CABE and having all the bike folks offer help; I really appreciate it.

If it's round & true with good spoke tension & no threads poking thru nipples it's fine to ride.