Fender Rolling 101

[Schwinn Sales West]

Here you go
No knurling on this one

View attachment 1909142

Any idea on why they would have "knurling" on the (Dan Venturi) wheels? The only thing I can think is if they were motor driven to prevent slipping? It seems counterproductive to rolling out a smooth metal surface.

John

 

[SJ_BIKER]

Any idea on why they would have "knurling" on the (Dan Venturi) wheels? The only thing I can think is if they were motor driven to prevent slipping? It seems counterproductive to rolling out a smooth metal surface.

John

My guess is that it can use for real rough surfaces. I have had fenders what were repaired with that bottom wheel. The top was not affected and was smooth. This set up my be helpful for badly pitted underside or flaky plating and seriously caked crud which I suspect would break it up with the knurling. Just my guess.

 

[saladshooter]

Can't wait to see an example on a painted fender. I hear it can be done without disturbing the paint but I'd like to see it. As if it removes the paint and the dent, I'd rather just leave the dent and the paint.

 

[kreika]

Any idea on why they would have "knurling" on the (Dan Venturi) wheels? The only thing I can think is if they were motor driven to prevent slipping? It seems counterproductive to rolling out a smooth metal surface.

John

I believe the knurling is on the wheel to give it traction when pulling through dents. Only problem is it lives knurling marks if you go at it to hard. I added the black electrical tape to soften the knurling if not totally eliminate it.

 

[kreika]

I can’t wait to see peaked fenders, especially at the v point angle. Also fenders that are curved and have raised channels in them. Might as well through in some fluted fenders too.

 

[SJ_BIKER]

EXAMPLE # 3
Painted fenders. So far stainless and bare metal fenders are pretty straightforward. With painted fenders it's best to inspect the underside and condition of the paint. Some paint will be unaffected if the pressure is light on the tool. I tend to listen for crunching noise when the rolling begins as my first indicator that we have weak paint. I'm using an original paint fender and there are chips and scratches on it.

After a short pass there was some lifting and flaking when the ding was popped out but surrounding area seems to be left intact

At another area paint was unaffected. Still took it slow and check the work. I technically could have left it alone it was so small but couldn't pass up the opportunity.

After photo ..

Another area in need of attention. Checked surface. Listening for crunching etc.

After photo. The underside was a bit crunchy and some paint loss prior to work on the underside but looks a little better.

 

[SJ_BIKER]

EXAMPLE #4
An old repainted fender. There was damage on the nose from a shipper who pulled a ace venture . The rolling got the dent out but the repainted area fell apart. You can have pristine original paint and this can still happen. In my experience it is hard to predict what will be left intact or what will lift. Again it's best to take it easy and if you get lifting or crunching noise it best to stop unless it's too late then you can just proceed your choice.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

I believe the knurling is on the wheel to give it traction when pulling through dents. Only problem is it lives knurling marks if you go at it to hard. I added the black electrical tape to soften the knurling if not totally eliminate it.

I have a pair of Lancaster Shrinker/Stretchers and the jaws markup soft aluminum pretty good. But it's not deep and can be sanded out with 320/400 grit paper. The issue with fenders I believe is the crimped edges. Not only does it double the thickness for the rollers, but it makes it harder to shrink/stretch the edges and not affect the single thick fender metal.

John

 

[schwinnbikebobb]

All good info! As SSW says the edges are tough. I still tape the top roller as it does impart a fine pattern if not. Another thing I do is use a index card between the top roller and top of the fender.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Has anyone experimented with different shape wheels and different wheel materials? I see the professional metal shapers using hard durometer skateboard wheels for the top wheel on soft metals like aluminum and brass to prevent marring is my guess. That might be a help if you're trying to save "original painted" fenders.

John