When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Help needed to diagnose New Departure Coaster brake hub issues

#eBayPartner    Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture
eBay Auction Picture

RetroSpec

Look Ma, No Hands!
I'm having issues with one of the project bike builds that I worked on this summer. I installed a rebuilt ( not by me) New departure coaster brake hub. When not pedaling ( walking the bike) the pedals are engaged and the front sprocket moves as the bike is moved. I tred to upload a short 10 sec video but the server would not allow it. Also when test riding the bike, pedaling seems fine, when coasting there is a discernable "wobble" or "grabbing" that is felt in the rear. What could be wrong here? Are the bearings to tight? Is it the reaction arm? Could it be the rear cog? I've installed other coaster brakes before and have not run into this issue. Could it be the internal brake parts? Any advice would be helpful.

IMG-0957.jpg


IMG-0958.jpg


IMG-0959.jpg


IMG-0960.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yeah, it may be that the brake discs have too much grease around them, so that the hub shell can’t spin freely without turning the Bendix drive clutch.
You’ll have to open it up to check it out, but those parts in the hubshell should only be lightly oiled and not greased.
Grease the bearing races only, and oil everything else.
 
I agree with Marty-pull it apart, check for worn parts, and service. Make sure cone adjustment is done correctly and you should be good. As far as the wobble have you checked to see if the rim is true?
 
Thanks for the prompt replies- The rim may not be completely true. However After doing some basic research - it seems to be what's commonly called "ghost pedaling". Also, I can move the pedals / and in effect the rear cog more than a 1/2 a turn. I wish there was a way to post a short video but everytime I do it doesn't upload the file. A video may be worth a "thousand" words. But then again, I'm asking questions that you'all - the experts - probadly dont need to see in video to understand my issue. It may just take a series of trouble shooting steps to figure out.
 
I would think the "ghost pedaling" is from the driver not releasing from the clutch when not pedaling. A possible solution would be to replace the clutch. I have a few if you need one. (no charge) The transfer spring may also be worn, which would account for the slow action from the clutch/driver in relation to pedaling.
 
Looks pretty! Did you get this on Ebay by chance from a seller out of CA. That might explain it all.
 
Looks pretty! Did you get this on Ebay by chance from a seller out of CA. That might explain it all.
I did- it was Glenn Brown in San Clemente. Spoke at length on the phone and he seemed knowledgable about the parts he sells and the process he used to rebuild them. I readjusted the cone nut and it seems a little better. Although the pedals/chainwheel turn very slowly when walking the bike. I have heard this is called "ghost pedaling" It seems to pedal ok and brake ok. On a coaster brake bike should the pedals/ chainwheel move forward "as if someone is pedal" even though the bike is just rolling as I'm walking it?
 
Back
Top