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Help with Stingray Pixie Convertible Bar

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Just by looking at your pic I don't think the rebend is no way gonna go far enough to line up. Unless it's the camera angle. If you do bend it back think about where to rebend so the fender dosen't hit the down tube and you can retain your steer tube caster and camber angle.
 
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Just by looking at your pic I don't think the rebend is no way gonna go far enough to line up. Unless it's the camera angle. If you do bend it back think about where to rebend so the fender dosen't hit the down tube and you can retain your steer tube caster angle.
It seems too far (2"+) to just be bent, with no real signs (other than that tiny crack) of abuse. Maybe an adult rider was taking it off sweet jumps in its previous life? I am really scratching my head here.
 
Before you bend and brake stuff maybe an easier fix would be to measure exactly where the front hole has to be, put that tube in a vise wrapped in a rag and crush it flat, drill a few holes and file the exact hole, trim off the extra, put it together and ride. I'm no expert but sometimes I overthink stuff. Good Luck. Please post it when you're done.
 
I had the same thought on modifying the tube, or I may also just make a new convertible bar that fits this bike. I can bend tube, and I think I have an old can of the coveted Campus Green spray paint around here somewhere...
 
Here's some information on what I call the Tricycle Headset models. I call them Tricycle Headset models because they did not have a normal ball bearing headset and used the collar with a set screw to hold the handle bar stem tight. Schwinn made only two models like this, one was with 12" wheels called a Lil Tiger, the other was the Pixie in a 16" wheel size. They made the 16" Pixies in both a semi pneumatic and also an air tire model. They both had removable top bars to convert them from boys to girls models. As these bikes went through families, kids outgrew them, but the top bars always seemed to get lost and never replaced when they were handed down to the next kid.

Both wheel size models were great sellers and I'm sure thousands are still sitting in Grand Pa's garages. The problem with this design was BIG BROTHERS. The big brother could not resist riding a very small bike and maybe taking it over a few jumps. The bikes folded up where the down tube was welded to the bottom bracket shell. I have seen them so bent the pedals dragged the ground.

Schwinn eventually came out with a newer design called the Pixie II which had a mixte frame design and a normal bicycle headset and handlebar stem to make it sturdy enough for the inevitable big brother abuse it would have to take.

The frame in the original photo is bent at the bottom bracket shell.

John
 
Thanks John this is the sort of info I was looking for! Here is another picture from the other side. I think I am going to attempt to straighten this using a porta-power. Will pushing apart the frame like I have the red line be the right thing to do? I don't really want to use any heat and mess up the paint. If it doesn't seem to work or acts like its going to ruin itself I will abort and make a custom top bar and enjoy it as it is.

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Thanks John this is the sort of info I was looking for! Here is another picture from the other side. I think I am going to attempt to straighten this using a porta-power. Will pushing apart the frame like I have the red line be the right thing to do? I don't really want to use any heat and mess up the paint. If it doesn't seem to work or acts like its going to ruin itself I will abort and make a custom top bar and enjoy it as it is.

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Port-a-power is a good plan. I'd bet 90% of the bend is in the bottom bracket hanger, not the down tube. The frame bent at the weakest point, so you will want to make your first pull (or push) using the point with the greatest leverage. I would not use the points shown in red in your photo. I would use two stationary points. Like the rear bumpers (trailer hitch balls) on two pick up trucks backed up to each other. If you have a buddy that works in a body shop they have a frame puller that would be very easy to make the pull. I like to use large nylon tie down ratchet straps. They allow you to make the pull slowly (carefully) and they will not harm the original paint finish because they are soft. Tighten the seat post clamp securely with the post installed into the seat mast. Place your first strap at the seat post clamp. Wrap the next strap around the down tube and let it slide up to the head tube. Using your two stationary points stretch that puppy out. It's not going to take very much to return the frame to a stock demention. Remember when bending metal it has a percentage of "spring back", so you have to go slightly past your desired point. Repairs like this were a common everyday repair in a family bike shop.

John
 
First of all, thanks for all the helpful replies! This should be a good reference thread for anyone running into this in the future.

I was able to re-bend the frame last night. I clamped the frame down to my 1/2" steel welding bench at the rear fork, then simply used a bar clamp to pull the top of the head stock down. It did not take much at all to get it back into shape, and I did have to overbend it a little to account for spring back. Once I get this back together I don't ever plan on taking off the convertible bar, so that should keep the frame from bending again. There aren't any paint cracks or any signs that this has been bent in either direction. Once I get this put back together I will share some photos!

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Just goes to prove the point, you can never have enough clamps!

It was leverage that damaged the frame, and leverage that fixed it.

My welding table is never that clean, LOL.

Good job, saved another one.

John
 
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