Kick back hub slipping

[Ron]

Ok,
Here's what I have. I could be mistaken, but am I missing the high speed clutch?
In Hub 4, I can't get the cone & sun gear to fit in flush with the low speed driving screw.
When turning the sprocket, the one clutch doesn't always turn.
By all means, as you can tell, this is my first hub, so it's a learning process.
Thank you for the patience, time, and advice.

All the best,
Ron

 

[J-wagon]

Interesting. Red band high speed should be knurled. That high looks screw type maybe yellow/blue band clutch? Someone mix match previously?

 

[buickmike]

J wagon, how many of these have you done?

 

[J-wagon]

Just my red band, pics here,
Post in thread 'Service help needed for my Spaceliner I'm at my whits end!!' https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/s...eliner-im-at-my-whits-end.204631/post-1395888

 

[Archie Sturmer]

Comparing pictures, it looks like a different clutch on the chain-side; (perhaps an improvement to reduce shell wear?).

 

[buickmike]

Not an owner of a kick back, but they might be like other coaster brakes and T-10 pedals. You buy five units before you get a good one

 

[bloo]

I too wonder if the part with the spiral groove could be out of some other hub. Maybe a yellow or blue? Maybe an Eagle? My red band had knurling like J-wagon's pictures show in the thread he linked.

 

[buickmike]

At least we can see deep pitting on sprocket side race . That thing is shot

 

[WillWork4Parts]

I can't remember which driver came first, the swirl or the knurl pattern. It is a difference between early and late hubs. I'm pretty certain if the clutch threads onto the driver, they are fully interchangeable. The high speed(RH) clutch is present and does look NOS, so that's a good thing. Looks like the index spring is facing the correct way, and it appears to have tried to shift between pictures, but didn't fully engage. Could have only been partially driven there...?

Diagram for reference...

Sounds like the right side dust cover wants to stick out too far? Could it be that one of the part number 21 pins is in backwards or just not flush on the inside between the drivers? Or a loose ball out of place... Or I bet it's just a matter of needing to seat the bearing(caged RH one) in the cup(driver) first, and then push the cone(sun or pinion gear) into the bearing. Try seating that first and let us know if both clutches(parts 12 and 14) drive when turning the sprocket. They won't be at the same speed. Make sure you turn the sprocket a couple of revolutions to let any gear lash be taken up when doing this, then try and back pedal to where the brake engages to ensure a good shift. Turn the sprocket forward a couple of revolutions again and let us know if it is shifting like I described earlier.
We can look at the retarder springs next if it's still behaving poorly. I'll be able to get pictures of a temporary fix for those when I get home from work later.

More info on Sheldon Brown's site. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...wQFnoECBkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3BWfV0hcWvQf3T5c-WcUrs

 

[WillWork4Parts]

Not an owner of a kick back, but they might be like other coaster brakes and T-10 pedals. You buy five units before you get a good one

At least from new they aren't that dysfunctional, unless we are talking about Eagle RH clutches.
Buying used and not verifying yourself that it does shift, will bite you most every time though. If someone is selling a kickback an not riding it, there might be a reason they are getting rid of it... Lol