Paint Gurus???

[SamG]

Thanks for the advice guys!!! Helpful. These aren’t any special OEM decals. I’m putting together a couple of “klunkers” for my sister and BIL with their football team themes. These are small stickers for flat smooth surfaces and I was probably over thinking. At the same time… I don’t want to rework a paint job, even if only a $20 spray can job!!! Appreciate the advice and I’ll post pictures upon completion.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

I never heard the term water slide decal until last night when I started googling the setting.

I’m one who applies thick coats. The first coat I just speckle on for some bite. But aftat I have a tendency to spray thick and probably don’t allow enough time between coats.

GT is correct, THIN is your friend. If you stack wet (not fully cured) coats on top of each other, it does not allow the solvents to escape (off gas). Use your thin coats to cover, check the MDS (material data sheet, "or instructions"), and pay close attention to the recoat times. Use a wet coat as your last coat, and let it fully cure before trimming. It's lots easier using real automotive paints because they "chemically cure" with activators and hardeners added to the base paint.

Paints are formulated to work best in a relatively small, sweet spot window. As guys, we never read the directions until we have a problem. If you desire the best painting results read the directions and pick the best environment to do your spray painting. Things like ambient temperature, surface temperature, humidity, dew point are very important to your results. In a production environment, these items are "controlled" in a spray booth. As "Driveway Painters" we have the ability to control our painting environment simply by picking the best time of day, or day of the week to do the painting. The key is to be aware of the environment in which you are painting.

John

 

[SamG]

GT is correct, THIN is your friend. If you stack wet (not fully cured) coats on top of each other, it does not allow the solvents to escape (off gas). Use your thin coats to cover, check the MDS (material data sheet, "or instructions"), and pay close attention to the recoat times. Use a wet coat as your last coat, and let it fully cure before trimming. It's lots easier using real automotive paints because they "chemically cure" with activators and hardeners added to the base paint.

Paints are formulated to work best in a relatively small, sweet spot window. As guys, we never read the directions until we have a problem. If you desire the best painting results read the directions and pick the best environment to do your spray painting. Things like ambient temperature, surface temperature, humidity, dew point are very important to your results. In a production environment, these items are "controlled" in a spray booth. As "Driveway Painters" we have the ability to control our painting environment simply by picking the best time of day, or day of the week to do the painting. The key is to be aware of the environment in which you are painting.

John

Thanks. Actually I’ve been cognizant of the daily temperature and humidity for painting. I am guilty of globbing on thick coats. I haven’t experienced any flaking or such. I’ve had good results with adhesion, etc… where I run into problems is spraying clear when the base isn’t fully cured (after 48hr) causing wrinkling. I’ve ruined some awesome paint jobs!!! I becoming more patient with experience!!! Right now my concern is the effect on applying stickers and decals.

 

[Ernbar]

I suggest using Solvaset instead of Microsol/Set. I have been building plastic models since the 1970s and Solvaset does a better job at melting the decal over the paint making it look like it’s painted on. I would avoid stick on decals and go with water slide ones. They are thinner and look better.
I suggest waiting at least 5 days to let the enamel cure, wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry then use a good automotive polish then a wax, skip the clear coat.
I saved this very late Dec58 frame from going into a landfill. I rattle canned it with Rustoleum and finished as described above.

 

[SamG]

I suggest using Solvaset instead of Microsol/Set. I have been building plastic models since the 1970s and Solvaset does a better job at melting the decal over the paint making it look like it’s painted on. I would avoid stick on decals and go with water slide ones. They are thinner and look better.
I suggest waiting at least 5 days to let the enamel cure, wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry then use a good automotive polish then a wax, skip the clear coat.
I saved this very late Dec58 frame from going into a landfill. I rattle canned it with Rustoleum and finished as described above.

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Nice job!!!

 

[SamG]

I do have a question about the Solvaset, Microsol and such solutions if anybody is still out there listening..... Can these solutions be used with vinyl stickers that already have a glue backing? Or are they for the water slide decals only? I am doing a new project where I'll be applying 4x3 rectangular decals to a curved fender. Are these the solutions that will make the vinyl more flexible to contour the fender without wrinkling an edge????

 

[GTs58]

I do have a question about the Solvaset, Microsol and such solutions if anybody is still out there listening..... Can these solutions be used with vinyl stickers that already have a glue backing? Or are they for the water slide decals only? I am doing a new project where I'll be applying 4x3 rectangular decals to a curved fender. Are these the solutions that will make the vinyl more flexible to contour the fender without wrinkling an edge????

They’re for waterslide only.

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

I do have a question about the Solvaset, Microsol and such solutions if anybody is still out there listening..... Can these solutions be used with vinyl stickers that already have a glue backing? Or are they for the water slide decals only? I am doing a new project where I'll be applying 4x3 rectangular decals to a curved fender. Are these the solutions that will make the vinyl more flexible to contour the fender without wrinkling an edge????

I do not have an answer for your question about Solvaset.

But you can get vinyl to make the compound curve easily with a little heat. It's a fine line between "too much, and too little". Best to sneak up on it.

I have had best luck installing sticky stickers "wet", it allows you to reposition the sticker, squeegee out the air bubbles, and use a little heat to make it conform to the curves.

John

 

[Ernbar]

Solvaset will work on water slide decals only but SSWs method of using heat on by vinyl ones sounds good.